2
low-molecular-weight reactive fluoropolymers under the PolyFox brand name. Omnova has also introduced a line of electronic-grade fluorosurfactants and fluorochemicals for the semiconductor coatings industry [ibid, Apr 2009]. Sustainability is also a growing trend in the surfactants market. Manufacturers that can offer sustainable, higher-performance products at similar or lower cost than traditional alternatives will have the highest prospects for growth. The use of renewable raw materials is one way of developing sustainable products. The surfactants’ hydrophilic portion can be formulated using bio- based raw materials, such as starch- and cellulose-derived products, including saccharides and glycols obtained via fermentation. PPCJ, Polymers, Paint, Colour Journal, May 2010, 200 (4548), 12 New skin and hair care ingredients 2010 Several companies have recently introduced new emulsifier products for skin care and related personal care applications. In addition to oil-in- water emulsifier Tego Care PSC 3 [Focus on Surfactants, Jul 2010], Germany’s Evonik Goldschmidt GmbH has launched Abil EM 97 S, said to be an ideal formulation aid for makeup, skin care and sun care products, thanks to its sensory benefits and excellent emulsification features. US firm Lincoln Fine Ingredients has expanded its portfolio with Linowax Natural E, an emulsifying wax naturally obtained from rapeseed oil for producing creamy, extremely light skin care products. Fellow US company Presperse LLC has developed Pellicer L-30, a 100% natural, liquid crystal emulsifier that provides superior dispersion at low use level, and restores damaged skin or hair. It is also offering new polymeric additive Aqupec SER W-150, which provides superior thickening and transparency properties when neutralized even under high electrolyte concentrations. The HallStar Co has developed two new natural ingredients: HallGreen PMS and HallStar GDS. HallGreen PMS, a completely vegetal-derived ester of triple-pressed grade stearic acid and propylene glycol, is ideal for use as an emollient, opacifier and emulsifier. HallStar GDS, a 100% vegetal-derived ester of triple-pressed grade stearic acid and glycerine, is recommended for use as a bodying agent for O/W emulsions and pearlizing agent for surfactant systems. HAPPI, Household & Personal Products Industry, May 2010, 47 (5), 78,80,82,84,86-87, & Jun 2010, 47 (6), 64 ASSOCIATED PRODUCTS Preservatives under fire Cosmetic ingredient producers are hounded by concerns over fears that preservatives used in eye makeup, shampoo and skin creams can cause cancers and disrupt the endocrine system. Despite the fact the preservatives typically comprise less than 1% of a product’s formulation, concerns raised about potential health risks are significant and have affected ingredient suppliers and product marketers. The argument against the use of parabens, which are esters of p-hydroxybenzoic acid, allegedly stemmed from a misinterpretation of a study published in the Journal of Applied Toxicology. The study suggested a link between the application of underarm cosmetics and the existence of parabens in cancerous breast tissue. Also under scrutiny as possible cancer-causing agents are formaldehyde and formaldehyde donors. Alternative preservative systems being offered by Campo Research, Arch Chemicals and Salicylates & Chemicals (S&C) are discussed. Chemical and Engineering News, 17 May 2010, 88 (20), 13-16 (Website: http://www.cen-online.org) More new ingredients for personal care US firm Lubrizol Advanced Materials (Noveon) has developed three new ingredients for skin, hair and sun care applications. Ideal for shower gels and liquid soaps, Glucamate DOE- 120 Thickener decreases the irritancy of the solution while leaving a smooth, desirable rheology and light, pleasant afterfeel. Novethix L-10 Polymer is especially suitable for thickening and managing the rheology of personal cleaning systems based on difficult-to-thicken surfactants. It is ideal for applications in economy (low surfactant) clear bath gels, shampoos and facial cleansers. Carbopol Ultrez 10 polymer offers a light, refreshing sensory feel to skin care solutions. AkzoNobel is offering two new ingredients ideal for skin care and other cosmetics and personal care applications. The 100% natural rheology modifier Naviance provides thickening benefits and is compatible with traditional cosmetic raw materials. Applications include antiperspirants/deodorants, skin cream and lotion, styling product and sun protection products. Hydrovance is a moisturizing agent with moisturization efficacy similar to the leading benchmark and imparts non- tacky, non-greasy feel to skin care products. It is recommended for use in bath and shower products, shampoo and skin cream and lotion. Seppic has introduced Sepiplus S, a thickener, texturizer and emulsifier with resistance to high electrolyte level. The polyvalent polymer gives the skin a long-lasting softness. It can be cold formulated and is available in easy-to-use pre-neutralized fluid form. Algues et Mer launched Ysaline 100, an antimicrobial extract from the red seaweed Asparagopsis armata. The active ingredient, which has bactericide and fungicide properties owing to its bromine and iodine content, can be used in cleansers and skin care products for oily skin and as a regular antidandruff shampoo. Croda has developed Voluminis actives for shampoos and styling products designed to increase hair volume without increasing the number of products applied and the need for special styling techniques. Ashland Aqualon Functional Ingredients is offering two new natural ingredients recommended for shampoos, 2-in-1 shampoos, conditioners and body wash applications. N-Hance CCG 45 offers superior conditioning properties with no build-up on the hair fibre. It also imparts exceptional after-rinse feel to both wet and dry skin when applied to skin care products. The highly 4 AUGUST 2010 FOCUS ON SURFACTANTS

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Page 1: More new ingredients for personal care

low-molecular-weight reactivefluoropolymers under the PolyFoxbrand name. Omnova has alsointroduced a line of electronic-gradefluorosurfactants and fluorochemicalsfor the semiconductor coatingsindustry [ibid, Apr 2009].Sustainability is also a growing trendin the surfactants market.Manufacturers that can offersustainable, higher-performanceproducts at similar or lower cost thantraditional alternatives will have thehighest prospects for growth. The useof renewable raw materials is oneway of developing sustainableproducts. The surfactants’ hydrophilicportion can be formulated using bio-based raw materials, such as starch-and cellulose-derived products,including saccharides and glycolsobtained via fermentation.

PPCJ, Polymers, Paint, Colour Journal, May 2010,200 (4548), 12

New skin and hair care ingredients2010

Several companies have recentlyintroduced new emulsifier productsfor skin care and related personalcare applications. In addition to oil-in-water emulsifier Tego Care PSC 3[Focus on Surfactants, Jul 2010],Germany’s Evonik GoldschmidtGmbH has launched Abil EM 97 S,said to be an ideal formulation aid formakeup, skin care and sun careproducts, thanks to its sensorybenefits and excellent emulsificationfeatures. US firm Lincoln FineIngredients has expanded its portfoliowith Linowax Natural E, anemulsifying wax naturally obtainedfrom rapeseed oil for producingcreamy, extremely light skin careproducts. Fellow US companyPresperse LLC has developedPellicer L-30, a 100% natural, liquidcrystal emulsifier that providessuperior dispersion at low use level,and restores damaged skin or hair. Itis also offering new polymeric additiveAqupec SER W-150, which providessuperior thickening and transparencyproperties when neutralized evenunder high electrolyte concentrations.The HallStar Co has developed twonew natural ingredients: HallGreenPMS and HallStar GDS. HallGreenPMS, a completely vegetal-derivedester of triple-pressed grade stearic

acid and propylene glycol, is ideal foruse as an emollient, opacifier andemulsifier. HallStar GDS, a 100%vegetal-derived ester of triple-pressedgrade stearic acid and glycerine, isrecommended for use as a bodyingagent for O/W emulsions andpearlizing agent for surfactantsystems.

HAPPI, Household & Personal Products Industry,May 2010, 47 (5), 78,80,82,84,86-87, & Jun 2010, 47(6), 64

ASSOCIATEDPRODUCTS

Preservatives under fire

Cosmetic ingredient producers arehounded by concerns over fears thatpreservatives used in eye makeup,shampoo and skin creams can causecancers and disrupt the endocrinesystem. Despite the fact thepreservatives typically comprise lessthan 1% of a product’s formulation,concerns raised about potentialhealth risks are significant and haveaffected ingredient suppliers andproduct marketers. The argumentagainst the use of parabens, whichare esters of p-hydroxybenzoic acid,allegedly stemmed from amisinterpretation of a study publishedin the Journal of Applied Toxicology.The study suggested a link betweenthe application of underarm cosmeticsand the existence of parabens incancerous breast tissue. Also underscrutiny as possible cancer-causingagents are formaldehyde andformaldehyde donors. Alternativepreservative systems being offered byCampo Research, Arch Chemicalsand Salicylates & Chemicals (S&C)are discussed.

Chemical and Engineering News, 17 May 2010, 88(20), 13-16 (Website: http://www.cen-online.org)

More new ingredients for personalcare

US firm Lubrizol Advanced Materials(Noveon) has developed three newingredients for skin, hair and sun careapplications. Ideal for shower gelsand liquid soaps, Glucamate DOE-120 Thickener decreases the irritancyof the solution while leaving a

smooth, desirable rheology and light,pleasant afterfeel. Novethix L-10Polymer is especially suitable forthickening and managing therheology of personal cleaningsystems based on difficult-to-thickensurfactants. It is ideal for applicationsin economy (low surfactant) clearbath gels, shampoos and facialcleansers. Carbopol Ultrez 10polymer offers a light, refreshingsensory feel to skin care solutions.AkzoNobel is offering two newingredients ideal for skin care andother cosmetics and personal careapplications. The 100% naturalrheology modifier Naviance providesthickening benefits and is compatiblewith traditional cosmetic rawmaterials. Applications includeantiperspirants/deodorants, skincream and lotion, styling product andsun protection products. Hydrovanceis a moisturizing agent withmoisturization efficacy similar to theleading benchmark and imparts non-tacky, non-greasy feel to skin careproducts. It is recommended for usein bath and shower products,shampoo and skin cream and lotion.

Seppic has introduced Sepiplus S,a thickener, texturizer and emulsifierwith resistance to high electrolytelevel. The polyvalent polymer givesthe skin a long-lasting softness. It canbe cold formulated and is available ineasy-to-use pre-neutralized fluid form.Algues et Mer launched Ysaline 100,an antimicrobial extract from the redseaweed Asparagopsis armata. Theactive ingredient, which hasbactericide and fungicide propertiesowing to its bromine and iodinecontent, can be used in cleansersand skin care products for oily skinand as a regular antidandruffshampoo. Croda has developedVoluminis actives for shampoos andstyling products designed to increasehair volume without increasing thenumber of products applied and theneed for special styling techniques.Ashland Aqualon FunctionalIngredients is offering two new naturalingredients recommended forshampoos, 2-in-1 shampoos,conditioners and body washapplications. N-Hance CCG 45 offerssuperior conditioning properties withno build-up on the hair fibre. It alsoimparts exceptional after-rinse feel toboth wet and dry skin when applied toskin care products. The highly

4 AUGUST 2010

F O C U S O N S U R F A C T A N T S

Page 2: More new ingredients for personal care

cationic quaternary polymer N-HanceBF 17 offers conditioning andviscosity-build properties, and issubstantive to skin, hair and otheranionic surfaces.

Finally, DuPont has launched twonew glycolic acid-based activeingredients for hair-treatmentproducts. Glypure exhibits superiorlubricating properties, resulting inreduced friction and easierdetangling. Bio-based glycolalternative Zemea propanediol [Focuson Surfactants, Feb 2007] hasdemonstrated enhanced hydrationfrom shampoos containing theingredient.

HAPPI, Household & Personal Products Industry,May 2010, 47 (5), 74,85-86 & Jun 2010, 47 (6), 58;& Parfums, Cosmetiques Actualites, Apr/May 2010,(212), 50,88,97,98

APPLICATIONSHousehold products

Unilever offers new detergent inThailand

Unilever Thai Trading is set tointroduce a new detergent brand tosupport its market supremacy and tocompete with Saha Group’s sue satbrand. The company has lowered theprice of the new product by 15-20%from the previous one. As Vietnamand Indonesia provided encouragingresponse for the product, Unileverexpects the same from Thailand too.Further, the company has investedBaht 200 M in Bangkok fordistribution facilities for the product,planned to open shortly. Thailand’sdetergent market is valued at Baht 16bn (€383 M), of which 50% isexpected to be accounted for byUnilever. Unilever is the producer ofBreeze detergent.

Bangkok Post, 11 Jun 2010, (Website:http://www.bangkokpost.net)

Poland: Inco Veritas investing indishwasher products

Inco Veritas SA is to become the firstcompany in Poland making tablets fordishwashing machines. Demand forthese products is increasing, whereassales of conventional dishwashingdetergents are falling. Zloty 15 M

(€3.6 M) will be invested in the newplant. The new tablets will come ontothe market in spring 2011 under theLudwik brand name. Inco Veritas willalso spend around Zloty 24 M in 2010on marketing its Ludwik brand. Theseproducts accounted for around 30%of the company’s sales of Zloty 236 Min 2009. Sales growth of 10% istargeted for these products in 2010,with the new tablet contributing. Themarket for cleaners in Poland isgrowing and the trend is towardsspecialized products. Sales ofcleaners in Poland rose 6.4% in Nov2008-Oct 2009.

Nachrichten fuer Aussenhandel, 10 Jun 2010,(Website: http://www.nfa-online.de) (in German)

Other

Oil spill leads to fame and fury formakers of dispersant chemicals

Water treatment chemicals firm Nalcohas found its name linked to theBP/Deepwater Horizon oil spill in theGulf of Mexico because its line ofsurfactants and solvent blendsnamed Corexit is the only dispersantthat BP is using to clean up the oilleaking from a damaged pipe 5000 ftbelow the Gulf’s surface. More than 1M gallons of Corexit have been usedin the Gulf as of 6 Jun 2010. Of thatamount, roughly 303,000 gallonshave been injected underwater at thesite of the leaking well. The USEnvironmental Protection Agency(EPA) initially backed the subsurfaceuse of dispersants at the spill, sayingthat they could stop the leaking oilfrom reaching the surface andeventually washing ashore andimpacting the Gulf’s coastal wetlands.However, given the large volume ofdispersants being deployed in theGulf, the EPA and the public havesubsequently expressed fears aboutthe chemical’s potential toxic effectsin the Gulf’s fragile marineecosystem. The EPA, in fact, issuedan order on 26 May 2010 asking BPto cut dispersants use by 75%.Meanwhile, BP’s reasoning for usingonly Corexit remains unclear. TheEPA has certified 81 dispersants andother products for cleaning up oilspills.

Chemical and Engineering News, 14 Jun 2010, 88(24), 22 (Website: http://www.cen-online.org)

PATENTSSachet with dishwashing enhancingparticles

Unilever Home & Personal Care hasobtained Patent No US 7,674,761 B2for a water-soluble, single-compartment sachet that contains amachine dishwashing detergent gel.The detergent composition, 15-80wt%water, contains discrete particles of100-5000 microns diameter thatenhance cleaning. The particle maybe an encapsulated bleach, anenzyme, an anti-foam, an anti-tarnishing agent or a mixture of these.The particle:gel ratio is about 0.005-0.15:1. The composition also containscross-linked polyacrylic acid as athickening agent.

HAPPI, Household & Personal Products Industry, Apr2010, 47 (4), 28

Sun patents concentrated fabricsoftener

The Sun Products Corp has beenawarded Patent No US 7,671,008 B2for a concentrated liquid fabricsoftening composition. Thecomposition contains an ester-linkedtriethanolamine (TEA) quaternaryammonium fabric softening material(iodine value of 0-60) consisting of amixture of mono-, di- and tri-esterlinked components; a single long-chain quaternized fatty acid amido-amine cationic surfactant, preferablywith a methylsulfate counterion; and aco-fragmenting agent comprising asugar or sugar alcohol. Thecompositions have a desirable pearlyappearance that is stable across arange of storage temperatures.

HAPPI, Household & Personal Products Industry, Apr2010, 47 (4), 28

Aircraft cleaner formula

Spray Nine Corp has been grantedPatent No US 7,666,264 B2 for acomposition useful for cleaningaircraft exterior surfaces. It consists ofat least one fatty acid methyl ester,one or more surfactants in a quantityenough to create an optically clearand stable emulsion; around 1-25parts by weight of one or morehydrotropes; metal corrosioninhibitors; alkaline builder; and water.

AUGUST 2010 5

F O C U S O N S U R F A C T A N T S