This publication was created and isdistributed in partnership with theFederal Highway Administration,the Maryland State HighwayAdministration and the Maryland Office of Tourism.

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Dear Traveler,In today’s fast-paced lifestyle, we oftendon’t have the time to take the road lesstraveled to reach our destinations. TheMaryland Scenic Byways Guidebook andMap is designed to steer you away fromMaryland’s interstates and highways toan exciting network of scenic byways justbrimming with antique rows, early-morning farmers’ markets, wineries and ahost of historic sites and attractions.

Maryland’s network of byways has beencreated to take you, our guest, through

the state’s most spectacular scenery, picturesque towns and landscapes thatare woven into the fabric of our nation’shistory. Choose from 19 unique bywaysthat touch every corner of our state andlet you experience our state’s scenicbeauty, history and culture.

Among the itineraries is a byway leadingto the mouth of the Patuxent River wherean historic water battle took place, whichleads you to where the red glare of rockets cascaded over Fort McHenry,inspiring Francis Scott Key to pen ourNational Anthem. Other byways will takeyou to St. Mary’s City, Maryland’s firstcapital, where tolerance was integral toits founding, and to the farms and trailson the Eastern Shore where the daringHarriet Tubman led courageous enslavedpeople to freedom.

I am proud that three of Maryland’s scenic byways have earned the highestdistinction by being named into the collection of America’s Byways. This designation recognizes these routes fortheir scenic, cultural and historic significance. The three impressive routeswill take you to Chesapeake Country, orout to Western Maryland on the HistoricNational Road and through the CatoctinMountains.

Whatever route you choose, I encourageyou to take advantage of Maryland’s outstanding scenery and enjoy the rideon Maryland’s byways.

Sincerely,

Martin O’MalleyGovernor

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Introduction ...................................................... 3

Byways ...................................................... 7-161

Historic National Road.................................................. 7

Mountain Maryland.................................................... 19

Chesapeake and Ohio Canal ...................................... 27

Antietam Campaign .................................................. 39

Catoctin Mountain...................................................... 47

Old Main Streets ........................................................ 55

Mason and Dixon........................................................ 63

Falls Road .................................................................... 71

Horses and Hounds .................................................... 77

Lower Susquehanna .................................................. 83

Charles Street .............................................................. 89

National Historic Seaport .......................................... 97

Star-Spangled Banner .............................................. 105

Booth’s Escape .......................................................... 115

Roots and Tides ........................................................ 121

Religious Freedom Tour............................................ 129

Chesapeake Country ................................................ 139

Harriet Tubman Underground Railroad .................. 153

Blue Crab .................................................................. 161

Destination Marketing Organizations ........ 171

Heritage Sites................................................ 172

Acknowlegements/Photography Credits .... 174

Index ............................................................ 175

Historic National Road Two centuries ago, the easiest way for

settlers to cross the Appalachian Mountains andgo west was on the dirt and cobblestone-coveredNational Road, America’s first federally funded highway.The National Road began in 1806 to open trade and communication with the growing frontier in the Ohio River Valley. Today you can travel Maryland’s portion of this road from Baltimore to WesternMaryland, stopping to enjoy the inns, taverns andshops that have survived from the road’s heyday.

Catoctin MountainThe hardwood forests encircling Catoctin Mountain are a naturalwonderment, serving as a sanctuary for plants and wildlife, and surrounding towns offer a deep exploration of the area’s rich industrial heritage.

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Maryland has designated 19 bywaysthat encompass 2,487 miles of beau-tiful roads, which offer a taste ofMaryland’s scenic beauty, history andculture. Take the roads less traveledincluding four entirely new bywaysfeaturing nationally significantthemes: the Star-Spangled Banner,Antietam Campaign, Booth’s Escapeand the Mason and Dixon byways.

AMERICA’S BYWAYSAmerica’s Byways® are a collection ofroutes recognized by the U.S.Secretary of Transportation as themost significant routes throughoutthe country, based on their scenery,culture, history, archaeology, andrecreational opportunities. Follow aMaryland Byway that has earned thisnational distinction:

Historic National Road

Mountain Maryland

Chesapeake and OhioCanal

Antietam Campaign

Catoctin Mountain

Old Main Streets

Mason and Dixon

Falls Road

Horses and Hounds

Lower Susquehanna

Charles Street

National Historic Seaport

Star-Spangled Banner

Booth’s Escape

Roots and Tides

Religious Freedom Tour

Chesapeake Country

Harriet TubmanUnderground Railroad

Blue Crab

The mountain’s old paths and roadstrace a variety of traditionalAppalachian entrepreneurial endeav-ors, including farms, sawmills and themaking of moonshine. Travelers todayenjoy miles of hiking and biking trailsand views of Cunningham Falls.

Chesapeake CountryExplore the Chesapeake landscapethat has shaped its watermenlifestyle. Your journey takes you pastfertile farmland graced by handsome– often historic – manor houses. Youenter small historic waterfront villagesrich with art, culture and pure coun-try charm, and then slip throughsecluded spots surrounded byunspoiled nature. Pristine waterwaysand relaxing bay vistas are a treat forthe senses.

MARYLAND’S HERITAGE AREAS

A Rich HeritageThe byways are a great avenue toexplore Maryland’s Heritage Areas.While traveling along Maryland’sByways, you’ll uncover rich historicaland cultural heritage throughout 11Maryland Heritage Areas. Historicpreservation goes hand in hand withprotecting and promoting our state’snatural beauty within the HeritageAreas. In each area, citizens have putforth effort to ensure that the jour-neys you take with this guide are his-torically and culturally unforgettablefor years to come.

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Two centuries ago,the easiest way for thousands

of settlers to cross theAppalachian Mountains and gowest was on the dirt, macadam

and cobblestone-covered National Road

Two centuries ago, the easiest wayfor thousands of settlers to cross theAppalachian Mountains and go westwas on the dirt, macadam and cob-blestone-covered National Road,America’s first federally funded high-way. Horse-drawn Conestoga wagonslugged building materials and sup-plies, while families rode stagecoach-es and carriages, stopping frequentlyalong the way to take advantage offriendly towns that quickly sproutedinns, taverns, blacksmith shops andwagon yards.

Congress approved funding for theinterstate highway in 1806 to openup trade and communication with thegrowing frontier in the Ohio RiverValley, but four decades of hard laborwere required to complete the projectfrom Baltimore all the way through to

Vandalia, Illinois. Soon after, however,the sight of train tracks signaled ashift in transportation priorities.

Today’s adventurers enjoy traveling170 miles along Maryland’s portion ofthis All-American Road, seeing thehighway as it progressed west (ratherthan following the eastward courseof most other byways in this guide).While passing through cozy townsfeaturing attractions, eateries andaccommodations that hearken backto the road’s earliest days, feel free toromanticize about life as it was forthose first, rugged pioneers.

The Historic National Road also passesthrough three Maryland HeritageAreas: Baltimore City, Heart of CivilWar (in Frederick) and Canal Place (inCumberland).

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170 miles fromBaltimore to

Pennsylvania Line

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Baltimoreto Frederick –

Lombard Street, MD 144,MD 27 & MD 144

The Baltimore to Cumberland portion of theroad, designated the Baltimore National Pike,

begins at water’s edge in the Inner Harbor area,where you are also linked to the Charles Street and

National Historic Seaport byways (pages 89 and 97, respectively). Follow Lombard Street west and stop at the Baltimore

& Ohio Railroad Museum, located at the site of the oldest railroad station in the country. Pass through several historic neighborhoods, including Union Square, whichjournalist H.L. Mencken called home. While leaving Baltimore, you pass many NationalPike-era hotels, taverns and warehouses before crossing the Gwynns Falls Greenway,which is an excursion through natural landscapes and historical landmarks on a 14-milepaved hike and bike trail.

West of the city along MD 144 (Frederick Road) is the National Historic District ofCatonsville, which was developed in 1810 and became a hot spot for summer homeswhen linked to downtown Baltimore by electric trolley lines. Before crossing the Patapsco River, drivethrough the town of Oella, which still contains old stone and brick buildings that once housed textile and

Manor, which is more than just kid’sstuff: A 43-acre park featuring earlyAmerican gardens and an orchardsurround an elegant, 18th-centuryGeorgian mansion, the former homeof Maryland’s first elected governor,Thomas Johnson. The town also fea-tures every form of entertainmentfrom dinner theater to minor-leaguebaseball, and it is the first of three“Arts & Entertainment Districts”found along this route. At the end ofa long day, one of Frederick’s inns orbed and breakfasts is a welcomesight. Rest up, because you’ll beheading for the mountains in themorning.

Enjoy the awe-inspiring view fromBraddock Heights before headingdown into the farming village ofMiddletown. This part of the HistoricNational Road byway also overlaps

with the Antietam Campaign byway(page 39) as you pass Civil War mark-ers within South Mountain State Parkand enter Boonsboro. Make time fora sidetrack into WashingtonMonument State Park, site of the firstmonument erected in GeorgeWashington’s honor. The park alsohappens to be located along theAppalachian National Scenic Trail inthe Cumberland Valley, a notedmigratory bird flyway, so bring yourbinoculars.

Continuing west on US 40 Alternate,the farmland of Funkstown is dottedwith Pennsylvania-Dutch bank barnsand smaller English-style structures.Beyond the farmers’ fields lies thetown of Hagerstown.

paper mill workers and was home toAfrican-American mathematicianBenjamin Banneker. Banneker, whohelped layout Washington, D.C.’sboundaries, and is honored in Oella,with a 142-acre historical park andmuseum. You’re also in the vicinity ofPatapsco Valley State Park, with its14,000 acres, five recreational areas,and the Avalon Visitor Center.Beyond the Patapsco River, antiquesshops, unique restaurants and historicbuildings await in Ellicott City. Thisformer flour milling town features thefirst railroad station in the nation, aswell as Thomas Isaac’s Log Cabin,which served as a National Road waystation.

Once a railroad and turnpike town,the Mount Airy of today and NewMarket its neighbor feature an arrayof vineyards that are open for tours

and picnics. This area is also popularfor boutiques and antiques shops.You will pass historic hotels, restau-rants and taverns that hostedNational Road travelers as you makeyour way toward Frederick.

Frederick to Hagerstown – US 40, US 40 Alt.When it became connected toBaltimore via the National Pike,Frederick flourished as a commercialcenter that transported agriculturalproducts toward Baltimore’s port.Take advantage of sight-seeingopportunities in the town’s historicdistrict, where numerous homes andpublic buildings represent two cen-turies of architecture. Visit FrancisScott Key’s law office and theNational Museum of Civil WarMedicine before moving on to theChildren’s Museum of Rose Hill

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Next in line is Hancock, an importantlink to the C&O Canal byway (page27),and where the Western MarylandRail Trail parallels the C&O Canal tooffer panoramic vistas of the PotomacRiver. A national historic park visitor’scenter offers a close look at canal life.After a scenic climb up Sideling Hill,which was the scene of many stage-coach mishaps due to the steepturns, enjoy the view from Town Hillwhere you can see into three statesat once. Then stop for a relaxinground of golf amid the ridges andvalleys of Rocky Gap State Park nearFlintstone. Another option is a chal-lenging bike ride through GreenRidge State Forest.

Cumberland to State Line – US 40 Alt, US 40Road, railway and canal come togeth-er in Cumberland. It’s also a cross-

roads for three state byways, as theHistoric National Road mingles onceagain with the C&O Canal and flirtsbriefly with Mountain Maryland (page19). And if you’re wondering whatthe third “Arts & EntertainmentDistrict” is along this route, look nofurther. In addition to galleries, the-aters and museums, Cumberland hasa brew house that was built in 1819as a National Pike tavern and waslater struck by a cannonball duringthe Civil War.

A steam-engine train ride on theWestern Maryland Scenic Railroad oran exhilarating bike ride on theAllegheny Highlands Trail will takeyou to Frostburg, where a nationallyrecognized carriage museum is locat-ed. In LaVale, the route passes one ofMaryland’s few remaining historic tollhouses, outside of which a plaque

Hagerstown to Cumberland –Frederick, Baltimore, Locustand Franklin Streets, US 40, I-70, MD 144, Scenic US 40, MD 144, I-68, Baltimore St,Henderson AveIn Hagerstown, US 40 Alternatebecomes Frederick Street and revealsa vivid glimpse of America’s trans-portation past. So many early railroadcompanies were linked intoHagerstown that it earned the nick-name “Hub City”. It is also a majorcrossroads for east-west and north-south traffic through the CumberlandValley. The town features the SouthProspect Street Historic District, whichhas a roundhouse museum amongseveral other sites dedicated to pre-serving the town’s rich history.Hagerstown is also a hub of cultureand creativity, earning it the distinc-tion of being the second of “Arts &

Entertainment Districts” found alongthe Historic National Road.

Continue west on US 40 through aregion of large, mid-19th-centuryfarms and homesteads, and look forthe small waterfront park on theConococheague River that offers afine view of the Wilson Bridge.Dating from 1819 and poised uponfive stone arches, it’s the oldest andlongest bridge of its kind inWashington County. Pass throughWilson, site of the 160-year-oldWilson’s General Store/One RoomSchoolhouse, and head toward ClearSpring where you can sidetrack southalong MD 68 and 56 to Fort FrederickState Park. The fort, based in BigPool, has been restored to its 1758appearance, when it was the corner-stone of Maryland’s defense duringthe French & Indian War.

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The Children’s Museum of RoseHill Manor1611 N Market St.Frederick, 21701301-694-1650,www.rosehillmuseum.com

Fort Frederick State Park11100 Fort Frederick Rd.Big Pool, 21711301-842-2155ww.dnr.state.md.us/publiclands/west-ern/fortfrederick.html

Francis Scott Key’s Law OfficeRoger Brooke Taney & Francis ScottKey Museum121 S. Bentz St.Frederick 21701301-228-2828, 1-800-999-3613

Green Ridge State Forest28700 Headquarters Dr NE

Flintstone, 21530301-478-3124www.dnr.state.md.us/publiclands/western/greenridge/html

Gwynns Falls GreenwayWindsor Mill/FranklintownBaltimore, 21207410-396-0440www.gwynnsfalltrail.org

Hagerstown Roundhouse Museum300 S Burhans Blvd (U.S. 11)Hagerstown, 21740301-739-4665www.roundhouse.org

LaVale Toll Gate House14302 National HwyLaVale, 21502301-777-5138www.mdmountainside.com

National Museum of Civil WarMedicine48 E. Patrick StFrederick, 21701301-695-1854www.CivilWrMed.org

Patapsco Valley State Park8020 Baltimore National PikeEllicott City, 21043410-461-5005www.dnr.state.md.us/publiclands/cen-tral/patapcovalley.html

Rocky Gap State ParkI-68, Exit 50, 12500 Pleasant Valley RdFlintstone, 21530301-722-1480www.dnr.state.md.us/publiclands/western/rockygap.html

still displays the cost for wagons, ani-mals and pioneering pedestrians topass.

Conestoga wagons once crossed theCasselman River Bridge, a single-span, stone-arch structure built forthe National Road near Grantsville in1813. The town is largely populatedby descendants of mid-19th-centuryAmish and Mennonite farmers. Today,travelers can access the bridge from aformer stagecoach stop known asSpruce Forest Artisan Village thatserves as a cultural center promotinglocal arts, crafts and music. US 40Alternate then winds through thenorthern section of Savage RiverState Forest and over Keyser’s Ridgeto the Mason and Dixon Line.

OLD LINE LORE: The NationalRoad’s first toll gate house, built duringthe 1830s in LaVale, had seven sides sothat the gatekeeper would have an easiertime watching for “toll crashers.” Thedesign must have been effective –$9,745.90 in tolls was collected duringthe gate house’s first year of operation,1836.

Appalachian National Scenic TrailAppalachian Trail Conservancy799 Washington StreetP.O. Box 807Harpers Ferry, WV 25425304-535-6331www. appalachiantrail.org

Baltimore & Ohio RailroadMuseum2711 Maryland AveEllicott City, 21043410-461-1945www.ecborail.org

Benjamin Banneker Historical Park& Museum300 Oella AveOella, 21228410-887-1087www.thefriendsofbanneker.org

Canal Place Heritage AreaWestern Maryland Railway Station,13 Canal StCumberland, 21502301-724-3655, 1-800-989-9394www.canalplace.org

Casselman River Bridge State Park349 Headquarters LnGrantsville, 21536301-895-5453www.dnr.state.md.us/publiclands/western/casselman.html

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Savage River State Forest127 Headquarters LnGrantsville, 21536301-895-5759www.dnr.state.md.us

South Mountain State Park21843 National PikeBoonsboro, 21713301-791-4767www.dnr.state.md.us/publiclands/western/southmountain.html

Spruce Forest Artisan VillageRt. 40 next to Penn AlpsGrantsville, 21536301-895-3332

Thrasher Carriage Museum19 Depot StFrostburg, 21532301-689-3380, 301-777-8678www.thrashercarriage.com

Washington Monument State ParkSouth Mountain Recreation Area21843 National PikeBoonsboro, 21713301-732-8065www.dnr.state.md.us/publicland/western/washington.html

Western Maryland Scenic Railroad& The Old Frostburg Depot13 Canal StCumberland, 21502301-759-4400www.wmsr.com

Wilson’s General Store/One RoomSchoolhouse14921 Rufus Wilson Rd.Clear Spring, 21722301-582-4718www.wilsonsgeneralstore.com

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Throughout much of this mountainous,

Western Maryland byway,the sweetest sound you’ll

hear just might be the silence.

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Throughout much of this mountain-ous, Western Maryland byway, thesweetest sound you’ll hear just mightbe the silence. It’s a stillness thatallows you to listen more closely forlight breezes tickling autumn leaves,birdsongs echoing along forest trails,and ripples of lake water lappingagainst gently rocking rowboats.

Take your time meandering throughpeaceful glades, valleys and marsh-lands, finally emerging from thick for-est areas to find the shore ofMaryland’s largest freshwater lake. Beprepared for hiking, biking, skiing,boating and all kinds of other out-door adventures. But along with fourseasons of outdoor pursuits, thisbyway also offers a little history. You’llbe visiting mid-19th-century coal min-ing villages, as well as mill towns

owing their growth to the C&O Canaland B&O Railroad.

Keyser’s Ridge to Deep CreekLake State Park – I-68, MD 42,US 219Start your tour in Keyser’s Ridge andfollow I-68 across the EasternContinental Divide. To the west isFriendsville, home of a family-runwinery and the Youghiogheny RiverLake, a popular spot for boating, fish-ing and paddling. The river itself runsfor about 135 miles through threestates, delivering frequent drops ofmore than 100 feet per mile. A sec-tion between Miller’s Run andFriendsville is Maryland’s first Scenicand Wild River, with white-water raft-ing guides conveniently located alongthe way. Learn more at theYoughiogheny Overlook Welcome

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193 miles fromKeyser’s Ridge to

Cumberland

common in northern climates.

Continue your outdoor explorationsat Swallow Falls State Park where apopular hiking trail leads to the 51-foot Muddy Creek Falls, largest offour falls within the park. Anothertrail leads back from the riverbankthrough a virgin stand of white pineand hemlock.

Then explore a 53-acre lake and morethan 21 miles of wooded trails atHerrington Manor State Park. Twentylog cabins within the park are avail-able year-round for renting, or youcan make your way to quaint accom-modations in the nearby town ofOakland. A nationally recognizedMain Street Community, Oakland isnoted for its seamless blend of pastand present. From the Garrett CountyCourthouse, which sits on a hill

above the city, you can look out overa museum, a community theater,unique boutiques and antiquesstores. Oakland’s Historic B&O TrainStation, dating to 1884, is not onlyconsidered one of the most distin-guished historic depots in the coun-try, but also houses shops featuringbaked goods, maple syrup and theworks of local artisans.

Oakland to Cumberland – MD 135 & 36Wrap around to MD 135, headingeast through Mountain Lake Park andDeer Park to the Potomac StateForest. A sidetrack along MD 560takes you past picturesque valleys andremote trout streams, and then youcan park beside the Lostland Run Trailand hike 3.5 miles down to the 100-foot Cascade Falls.

Center on I-68 East just outsideFriendsville.

Slipping southward on MD 42 to US219, the rustic village of McHenry iswhere you’ll find Wisp MountainResort. Winter activities include ski-ing, snowboarding and tubing, whilewarm-weather fun ranges from golfto mountain biking. Nearby, DeepCreek Lake State Park hugs the state’slargest freshwater lake, formed by adam that was completed in 1925.The park offers a variety of wateractivities and six miles of trails forwinter sports enthusiasts. State ParkRoad follows the 3,900-acre lake’seastern shore and gets you to theDiscovery Center, where a children’sinteractive room is one part of a6,000-square-foot educational experi-ence. Glendale Road takes you overto the western shore of the lake,

bringing you back to US 219.

Deep Creek Lake to Oakland –US 219, Mayhew Inn Rd,Swallows Fall Rd, HerringtonManor RdFollow Mayhew Inn Road through theHammell Glade Swamp and on toSwallow Falls Road. Here, theYoughiogheny River flows throughshaded, rocky gorges along the bor-der of Swallow Falls State Park, whichis part of the greater Garrett StateForest.

Take a northwesterly sidetrack onCranesville Road to the CranesvilleSubartic Swamp, a patch of forestand high-mountain bog where manyplant and animal species remain asrelics of an earlier era. A boardwalkcrosses the swamp so you can enjoycloser looks at an ecosystem more

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Developed in 1835 by the GeorgesCreek Coal and Iron Company,Lonaconing contains dozens of 19th-and early 20th-century buildings, andwithin a park in the center of town isa historic iron furnace.

Continue north on MD 36 throughthe mining village of Midland andalong the valley floor between DansMountain and the Big Savage moun-tain range. Dans Mountain has a2,895-foot-high scenic overlook,accessible via MD 55 and affordingviews of the Georges Creek Valley tothe west and the Potomac Valley tothe east. In Frostburg, which wasonce known as the capital of the coalregion, travelers can jump to theHistoric National Road (page 7) orcontinue on toward Mount Savage,where in 1844 a rolling mill producedthe first solid railroad tracks made in

the United States. One last stop onthis tour is Cumberland Narrows, a1,000-foot gorge between Wills andHaystack mountains, which linksback into the Historic National Roadin Cumberland.

OLD LINE LORE: Nearly 2,000acres of Garrett State Forest were donat-ed by the Garrett brothers, John andRobert, in 1906, marking the beginningof Maryland’s public lands system. A cen-tury later, about 200,000 acres of stateforestland exist.

Cranesville Subarctic SwampCranesville Rd & Lake Ford RdOakland, 21550301-387-4386www.garrettchamber.com

At this point on the byway, threebranches promise many more scenicdiscoveries for nature enthusiasts:

• Branch north on MD 495 throughthe ancient bogs and swamp areasof the Allegany Highlands. Hikingand biking trails not only connectwith the C&O Canal towpath, butalso follow the route of theWestern Maryland Railroad formore than 200 miles betweenCumberland and the Pennsylvanialine.

• A quick detour on MD 38 bringsyou to the remote town ofKitzmiller. Developed as a millingcenter, it became key to the miningindustry and the transport of coalvia the railroad. Nearby is JenningsRandolph Lake, a mountainousrecreation area with boating, sail-ing, scuba diving, ice fishing, andcamping.

• Following Savage River Road duenorth, you come to the 54,000-acreSavage River State Forest. Shadedtrails stay cool on even the warmestsummer days, and anglers enjoywading into the nationallyacclaimed river to coax brook, rain-bow and brown trout out of deepholes shadowed by large boulders.A 350-acre reservoir provides crys-tal-clear mountain water for boat-ing and fishing. Below the dam,white-water rapids attract the mostexperienced paddlers.

Back on MD 135, follow a steep pas-sage and descent from the top ofBackbone Mountain, which at 3,360feet above sea level, is the highestpoint in the state. Next, you hookinto MD 36 and climb toward thetown of Lonaconing, which is anIndian name roughly translated as“the meeting place of many waters.”

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Deep Creek Lake State Park898 State Park RdSwanton, 21561301-387-4111www.dnr.state.md.us/publiclands/western/deepcreeklake.html

Deep Creek Lake Discovery Center898 State Park RdSwanton, 21561301-387-7067www.dnr.state.md.us/publiclands/western/dicovery.html

Herrington Manor State Park222 Herrington LnOakland, 21550301-334-9180www.dnr.state.md.us/publiclands/westren/herringtonmanor.html

Historic B&O Train Station117 E. Liberty StOakland, 21550

301-334-2691www.oaklandmd.com

Lonaconing Iron Furnace and ParkRt 36, Main StLonaconing, 21539301-463-6233www.mdmountainside.com

Mount Savage Museum Bank, Jailand Mining BuildingMain StreetMount Savage, 21545301-264-9916www.mountsavagehistoricalsociety.org

Potomac State Forest222 Herrington LnOakland, 21550301-334-2038www.dnr.state.md.us/publiclands/western/potomacforest.html

Savage River State Forest127 Headquarters LnGrantsville, 21536301-895-5759www.dnr.state.md.us

Swallow Falls State Park222 Herrington LnOakland, 21550301-334-9180www.dnr.state.md.us/publiclands/western/swallowfalls.html

Wisp Mountain Resort296 Marsh Hill RdDeep Creek Lake, 21541301-387-4911www.wispresort.com

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housed within the Western MarylandRailway Station, which dates back to1916. The national park itself includesthe C&O Canal Towpath Trail alongnearly 20,000 acres paralleling thePotomac River, which is recognized asan American Heritage River for the

number of historic sites found alongits shores.

From the Spring Gap Recreation Areaoff MD 51, a one-mile hike along thecanal towpath leads to Lock 72,which stands beside a restored, two-

story lock tender’s house.Approaching West Virginia, you skirtGreen Ridge State Forest, famousamong wildlife watchers and off-roadbikers alike. In the distance is themost impressive engineering achieve-ment found along the canal – the

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Workers who toiled on theChesapeake & Ohio Canal between1828 and 1850 could not have imag-ined that their engineering feat –designed for the sole purpose ofspeeding up commercial trade –would one day become a hub of out-door recreational activity. Hiking, bik-ing, bird watching and mule-drawnbarge rides are among the many pop-ular pursuits now enjoyed beside thispeaceful passage.

During its century of service, thecanal worked with a system of 74 liftlocks that regulated water levels,allowing boats laden with coal, flour,lumber, grain and produce to bepulled by mule teams walking on anadjacent towpath. Their 184.5-milejourney stretched from the mountains

of Western Maryland, through farm-land and forest, to the tidewater out-skirts of our nation’s capital. Yourjourney follows this same course,allowing you to make heritage discov-eries along each new mile.

Cumberland to Hancock– MD 51 – WV 9 & U.S. 522Though plans called for the C&OCanal to extend from the ChesapeakeBay all the way into the Ohio Valley,railroading won the race to the west,and work on the canal stalled inCumberland. This beautiful town – atransportation crossroads tuckedamid the Allegheny Mountains – ishome to the Cumberland C&O CanalNational Historical Park Visitor Centerat Canal Place and the Canal PlaceHeritage Area. The visitor center is

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236 miles fromCumberland to

Washington, D.C.

Paw Paw Tunnel,which, over thecourse of 14 years,was cut through morethan 3,000 feet ofrock so that vesselswould not have tonavigate a tricky dou-ble bend in the river.Both the tunnel and aWest Virginia townjust across the borderare named for small,fruit-bearing treesfound nearby.

Hancock toSharpsburg - MD 144 – I-70 –MD 56, 68, 63 & 65Emerging from WestVirginia, you cross the

border back into Maryland and arriveat the Hancock-based C&O CanalMuseum and Visitors Center. Exhibitsand a short film bring canal history tolife, and the center’s staff can pointyou toward local country roads thatfeature wayside markers, views oflocks and other canal sites. This areais also famous for its fishing andmany fine restaurants.

For several miles from Hancock easttoward Big Pool, the C&O Canalbyway runs side by side with theHistoric National Road byway (seepages 7-18). You’re also near thebeginning of the 21-mile-longWestern Maryland Rail Trail, a pavedpath that traverses Fort FrederickState Park, site of an importantdefensive position occupied in themid-18th century during the French &Indian War. The fort later saw action

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Washington arranged for the con-struction of an arsenal which, manyyears later, became a keyConfederate target prior to the CivilWar Battle of Antietam.

In Brunswick, railroad yards parallelthe canal and river. Visit theBrunswick Railroad Museum/C&OCanal Visitors Center, where exhibitsnot only tell about the life of railroadworkers but also local baseball andthe canal. If you’re a hiker or biker,get information from the visitors cen-ter about 31 hiker-biker campsites(for single-night tent camping) spacedevery few miles along the canal’stowpath trail from Swain’s Lock (Mile16.6) to Evitts Creek (Mile 180.1).

Point of Rocks to Gaithersburg -US 15 – MD Rts. 28, 109 & 117You’ve entered a stretch of the canal

byway that is a land of nationally rec-ognized landmarks. Point of Rocksachieved national recognition in 1830when the B&O Railroad and C&OCanal companies fought over theright of way on land betweenCatoctin Mountain and the Potomac,crucial to their race westward. Thentravel through the Monocacy NaturalResource Management Area toadmire the Monocacy Aqueduct, thatis the largest of the canal’s 11 aque-ducts. A sidetrack on MD 95 leads toSugarloaf Mountain Natural Area,which is a National Natural Landmark.Heavily wooded and covered withbrown sandstone, this isolated moun-tain hosted many lookouts during theCivil War. Now it’s open for hiking,horseback riding and picnicking.

In Poolesville, the John Poole House isan 18th-century log store built by the

during the AmericanRevolution and Civil War.

Returning to the canal, the brickLockhouse 49 takes you back tothe 19th century when workerslived here. And soon you’ll beentering the town ofSharpsburg, where Civil War sto-ries mingle with transportation tales.

Sharpsburg to Point of Rocks - MD Rts. 65, 34, 478 & 464In Sharpsburg, the C&O Canal byway links with theMaryland Civil War Trails: Antietam Campaign (see pages39-46). After touring the Antietam National Battlefield, site ofthe bloodiest day in the Civil War, you’ll want to stroll throughthe surrounding town and admire the late-19th-century countrystore and canal-related exhibits at the Barron’s C&O Canal Museum.

Following U.S. 340 for a brief sidetrack across the Potomac and Shenandoahrivers brings you to Harpers Ferry, West Virginia. This is where George

32 33

tures while also taking advantage ofcanoe and bike rentals. And justabove the canal’s 10-mile mark, theCarderock Recreation Area has river-front picnic facilities while also pro-viding bikers with convenient accessto the unpaved C&O Canal Towpath.Ample rock-climbing experiences arealso available, with ascents up to 80feet.

Another stop on both the C&O Canalbyway and Maryland Civil War Trailssystem is the Clara Barton NationalHistoric Site. Known as the “Angel ofthe Battlefield” for her efforts tocomfort sick and injured soldiers.Barton later founded the AmericanRed Cross.

Located three miles west ofCarderock, the Great Falls is a spec-tacular series of waterfalls and rapids

that drop 76 feet in two-thirds of amile, from the Piedmont Plateau tothe tidewater part of the PotomacRiver. Rough patches like this madethe Potomac unnavigable by ships,prompting the need for a canal.

Stop in at the Great Falls Tavern, nowthe visitor center for the C&O CanalNational Historical Park-Potomac.Originally a lockhouse, the tavern ishome to a museum of canal historyand lore, and features a restoredcanal boat. You can also arrange fora guided, one-hour, mule-drawnbarge ride through one of the historiclift locks.

Before entering Washington, D.C.,veer east into Bethesda. Officially rec-ognized by the State of Maryland asone of several Arts & EntertainmentDistricts in this region, Bethesda is a

town’s founder and is a NationalHistoric Landmark. Another museumis located in the restored, one-roomSeneca Schoolhouse, built in 1866from sandstone quarried nearby. Theschool closed in 1910, but whispersremain of the farmers’ children whoperformed their recitations here everyFriday.

From Poolesville, a sidetrack on 107West brings you to White’s Ferrywhere cars today cross the river onthe ferry that was used during theCivil War by the Confederate armiesentering Maryland. Stop for a picnicalong the canal and river.

Consider exploring a branch off ofthe byway through the MontgomeryCounty’s Agricultural Reserve, part ofHeritage Montgomery. Consideredthe country’s most successful farm-

land preservation program, the agri-cultural reserve features rolling coun-try side steeped in history. Drivedown rustic, rural roads to see land-scapes that have changed little sincecolonial times, including 18th-centuryplantation homes, horse farms andweathered barns. Following MD 118also takes you to Germantown,known for its small-town charm andprime antiquing opportunities.

Head back toward the Potomac Riverand visit Seneca Creek State Park tosee a mill and 19th-century cabin.

Seneca to Washington, D.C. -MD Rts. 190 & 189, MacArthurBlvd. Clara Barton Parkway &Canal RoadFrom several “lock” roads that link toMD 190, you can admire canal struc-

34 35

C&O Canal Museum & VisitorsCenter326 E Main St, Hancock 21750301-678-5463Fri-Tues, 9am-4:30pm.www.nps.gov/choh

C&O Canal National HistoricalPark-Georgetown1057 Thomas Jefferson St NW,Georgetown, Washington, D.C.,20007202-653-5190www.nps.gov/choh

C&O Canal National HistoricalPark-Potomac11710 MacArthur Blvd, Potomac20854301-299-3613, 301-767-3714Barge rides: Apr-Oct.www.nps.gov/choh

C&O Canal Paw Paw TunnelMD Rt 51, near Paw Paw, WV,Cumberland 21502301-722-8226Sunrise-sunset.

C&O Canal Museum & VisitorsCenter326 E Main St, Hancock 21750301-678-5463Fri-Tues, 9am-4:30pm.www.nps.gov/choh

Clara Barton National Historic Site5801 Oxford Rd, Glen Echo 20812301-492-6282Call for schedule.www.nps.gov/clbahttp://www.nps.gov/clba

hub of cultural activity featuringmuseums, gardens, galleries, per-forming arts, and upscale shopping.

Another canal visitors center lies with-in Georgetown, which was once abusy Maryland tobacco port and nowhas been incorporated intoWashington, D.C. This stylish, urbancommunity’s 18th- and 19th-centuryhomes and commercial buildings nowhouse shops and restaurants. TheC&O Canal’s first lock lies at themouth of Rock Creek, near the JohnF. Kennedy Center for the PerformingArts. Now you’re ready to be releasedinto our nation’s capital city.

OLD LINE LORE: Both the C&OCanal’s famous Paw Paw Tunnel and aWest Virginia town just across the borderare named for small, fruit-bearing trees found nearby. The pawpaw is said to be

the largest, edible fruit native toAmerica, and the tree’s leaves and twigscontain cancer-fighting properties.

Antietam National BattlefieldRt 65, Sharpsburg Pk, Sharpsburg21782301-432-5124Daily, 8:30am-5pm.www.nps.gov/anti

Barron’s C&O Canal Museum5632 Mose Cir, Sharpsburg 21782301-432-8726Sat-Sun, 9am-5pm.

Brunswick Railroad Museum/C&OCanal Visitors Center40 W Potomac St, Brunswick 21716301-834-7100Jan-Apr: Fri, 10am-2pm; Sat, 10am-4pm; Sun, 1-4pm. Rest of year: Thur,10am-2pm.www.brrm.org

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Cumberland C&O Canal NationalHistorical Park Visitor CenterWestern Maryland Railway Station,13 Canal St, Cumberland 21502301-722-82269am-5pm. Closed Mon, Tue duringwinter months.www.nps.gov/choh

Fort Frederick State Park11100 Fort Federick Rd Big Pool, 21711301-842-2155, (TDD) 301-974-3683Apr-Oct: 8am-sunset; Nov-Mar: Mon-Fri, 8am-sunset; Sat-Sun and holidays,10am-sunset.www.dnr.state.md.us/publiclands/western/fortfrederick.html

Green Ridge State Forest28700 Headquarters Dr NE Flintstone 21530301-478-3124, (TTY) 410-974-3683Dawn-dusk

www.dnr.state.md.us/publiclands/western/greenridge.html

John Poole House19923 Fisher Ave, Poolesville 20837301-972-8588Sun, 12N-5pm.www.historicmedley.org

Western Maryland Rail TrailFort Frederick State Park, 11100 FtFrederick Rd, Hancock 21711301-842-2155Apr 1-Oct 31: 8am-sunset; Nov 1-Mar31, 10am-sunset.www.dnr.state.md.us/publiclands/wmrt.html

John Poole House19923 Fisher Ave, Poolesville 20837301-972-8588Sun, 12N-5pm.www.historicmedley.org

Seneca Creek State Park11950 Clopper Rd Gaithersburg 20878301-924-2127www.dnr.state.md.us/publiclands/cen-tral/seneca.html

Seneca Schoolhouse Museum16800 River Rd, Poolesville 20837301-972-8588, 1-800-925-0880Mar-Dec: Sun, 1-5pm.www.historicmedley.org

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White’s Ferry to Poolesville –MD 107 & 109General Lee understood the advan-tages of a military strike into Federalterritory: it would allow time forfarmers in war-torn Virginia to com-plete their fall harvest, and a victoryon Union soil might gain foreign sup-port for the Southern cause. ThoughLee’s ensuing Campaign of 1862came to a head in Sharpsburg, hispath to that Western Maryland townis strewn with sites of other signifi-cant confrontations.

In early September, Confederate sol-diers forded the Potomac River nearthe present-day position of White’sFerry, which was established in 1828and still remains hard at work trans-porting modern-day conveyances andpeople. Not long after, Union horse-

The Antietam Campaignbyway is one of two Civil War Trails that

intersects Maryland’s Heart of the Civil War

Heritage Area.

As the autumn of 1862 approached,President Abraham Lincoln felt heneeded a decisive Union victory toensure that there would be supportfor a yet-to-be-announced proclama-tion freeing the slaves. It’s still debat-able just how decisive the slaughterat Antietam – remembered as “TheBloodiest Single Day of the Civil War”– truly was. By sheer numbers, theSept. 17 battle ended in a draw, with10,700 Confederates and 12,400Union soldiers killed, wounded ormissing in action. However, GeneralGeorge McClellan’s Union armythwarted the Rebel advance north,and a few days after the cannons fellsilent, Lincoln visited the battlefield.

This byway roughly follows thechronology of events beginning Sept.4, as General Robert E. Lee and his

Army of Northern Virginia crossed thePotomac River into Maryland, andending two weeks later as Lee’sforces limped back into West Virginia.It follows one of four Maryland CivilWar Trails (another, Booth’s Escape,appears as a byway on pages 115-120). Each trail brings you face toface with both familiar and lesser-known Civil War stories, while alsoplacing you among breathtakingscenery while presenting convenientrecreational opportunities. This bywayis one of two Civil War Trails thatintersects Maryland’s Heart of theCivil War Heritage Area, recognizingSouth Mountain and its surroundingvalleys as the crossroads of the CivilWar in the state. For a free mapguide to Maryland Civil War Trails,call 1-888-248-4597 or go online atwww.visitmaryland.org.

40

126 miles fromWhite’s Ferry to

Sharpsburg

ment was cut short by reports ofUnion cavalry in the area.

Between US 270 and MD 355 on theroad into Frederick, you’ll find theMonocacy National Battlefield.Perhaps better known as the site ofthe July 9, 1864, conflict dubbed“The Battle that Saved Washington,”Monocacy also played a key role inthe Antietam struggle. Ask at thebattlefield visitors center for detailsabout Lee’s “lost orders,” which hadbeen mistakenly left behind at anabandoned Confederate camp. Theorders were discovered by a Federalprivate and given to GeneralMcClellan, who used the informationto his advantage at Antietam.

Frederick to Boonsboro – US 40& US 40 Alt, MD 17 & 67Featuring a quaint, 50-block historic,

cultural and commercial district,Frederick has been recognized by theNational Trust for Historic Preservationas a “Great American Main Street”award winner. Among its manyattractions are the National Museumof Civil War Medicine and theBarbara Fritchie House and Museum.Fritchie was a 95-year-old widowwhen, according to a famous poemby John Greenleaf Whittier, she defi-antly waved an American flag fromher window as General StonewallJackson and his Confederate troopsmoved through town.

Here, the byway follows a portion ofUS 40 – the Historic National Road –through Braddock Heights beforebranching off toward SouthMountain State Park. Three days priorto Antietam, battles were foughtalong three South Mountain “gaps,”

men probing for enemy infantryclashed with Rebel cavalry beyond theC&O Canal in Poolesville. It would beone of several times Poolesville resi-dents witnessed Civil War action upclose: a year earlier, Union troops hadassembled here before being ferriedinto Virginia for the Battle of Ball’sBluff, and a year later, J.E.B. Stuart’sConfederate cavalry stormed throughon its way to Gettysburg,Pennsylvania. Several historic struc-tures around Poolesville hearken backto the mid-19th century, with CivilWar exhibits found inside the circa-1793 John Poole House.

Poolesville to Frederick – MD 109, Comus Rd, Mt.Ephraim Rd, 28, MD 109, 28, 85Michael’s Mill Rd, Baker ValleyRd, 355 Small communities in Beallsville and

Barnesville were disrupted by runningcavalry fights, until Confederate ridersfinally concluded a successful rear-guard action in Comus on Sept. 11.The byway then cuts back acrossSugarloaf Mountain, where signal-men from both armies were oftenstationed, to the town of Dickerson.Here along MD 28, you’ll find theMonocacy River Natural ResourceManagement Area, which offershunting, fishing, hiking, horsebackriding, and a link into the C&O Canalbyway (see pages 27-38).

Onward came the Rebel troops,camping in Carrollton Manor andfeasting on bread baked inBuckeystown. To the east in Urbana,men of Stuart’s cavalry hosted aSabers and Roses Ball at the LandonHouse, which remains a popular“special event” spot. But their merri-

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pre-Civil War raid of the U.S. Armoryand Arsenal at Harpers Ferry. You canreach the Harpers Ferry NationalHistoric Park by heading south fromSharpsburg on Harpers Ferry Road.Brown’s raid, though ultimatelyunsuccessful, became an anti-slaveryrallying cry during the war.

OLD LINE LORE: The MonocacyAqueduct, the largest such structure onthe C&O Canal, was twice a target ofConfederate demolition crews during theAntietam Campaign, but both attemptsto destroy it failed. Granite blocks thatwere used to construct the aqueduct hadbeen quarried from nearby SugarloafMountain.

Antietam National Battlefield5831 Dunker Church Rd, Sharpsburg21782301-432-5124Year-round, daily, 8:30am-5pm.www.nps.gov/anti

Barbara Fritchie House andMuseum154 W Patrick St, Frederick 21701301-698-8992Apr-Sept: Mon, Thur-Sun, 10am-4pm;Oct-Nov: Sat, 10am-4pm; Sun, 1-4pm.

Boonsborough Museum of History113 N Main St, Boonsboro 21713301-432-6969May-Sept: Sun, 1-5pm; or by appt.

Gathland State ParkMD 67 (c/o Greenbrier State Park,21843 National Pike, Boonsboro21713)301-791-47678am-sunset.www.dnr.state.md.us/publiclands/wes-tern/gathland.html

with some of the wounded, includingfuture President Rutherford B. Hayes,removed to homes and churches inBurkittsville and Middletown, whichserved as makeshift hospitals.Crampton’s Gap, today encompassedby Gathland State Park, serves ashome to the War CorrespondentsMemorial Arch, erected on the one-time estate of Civil War journalist andnationally renowned author GeorgeAlfred Townsend. Travel over themountain to Boonsboro, whichincludes a museum displaying localCivil War relics.

Boonsboro to Sharpsburg –MD 34Heading toward their confrontation inSharpsburg, both armies passedthrough Keedysville, which was alsowhere many wounded were treatedin Antietam’s aftermath.

As dawn broke on Sept. 17, 1862battle lines were drawn nearAntietam Creek – Lee’s 41,000 sol-diers with their backs to the Potomac,against a Federal army more thantwice that size. By dusk, one of everyfive fighting men had fallen. TheUnion dead are buried at theAntietam National Cemetery, withmany Confederate soldiers laid to restin nearby Hagerstown.

A thorough tour of the beautifullypreserved Antietam NationalBattlefield – from the cornfield andDunker Church to Burnside Bridgeand the “Bloody Lane” – requires sev-eral hours, especially when combinedwith a tour of the Pry House FieldHospital Museum. Also plan to stopat the Kennedy Farmhouse, the stag-ing area for abolitionist John Brownand his small army as they planned a

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John Poole House19923 Fisher Ave, Poolesville 20837301-972-8588Sun, 12N-5pm.www.historicmedley.org

Kennedy Farm House (John Brown HQ)2406 Chestnut Grove Rd, Sharpsburg21782May-Oct: interior tours by appt. only.www.johnbrown.org

Monocacy National Battlefield4801 Urbana Pike, Rt 355 S, Frederick21704301-662-3515, 301-662-69808am-4pm.www.nps.gov/mono

Monocacy River Natural ResourceManagement Area(c/o Seneca Creek State Park, 11950

Clopper Rd, Gaithersburg 20878)301-924-2127Dawn-dusk.www.dnr.state.md.us/publiclands/cen-tral/monocacy.html

National Museum of Civil WarMedicine48 E Patrick St, Frederick 21701301-695-1864, 800-564-1864Mon-Sat, 10am-5pm; Sun, 11am-5pm.www.civilwarmed.org

Pry House Field Hospital Museum18906 Shepherdstown Pike,Sharpsburg 21782301-695-1864, 800-564-1864May: weekends, 11am-5:30pm;Memorial Day-Halloween: daily,11am-5:30pm; Nov 1-Dec 2, week-ends, 11am-5:30pm.www.civilwarmed.org

South Mountain Battlefield State Park(c/o Greenbrier State Park, 21843National Pike, Boonsboro 21713)301-791-4767Dawn-dusk.www.dnr.state.md.us/publiclands/western/southmountain.html

White’s Ferry24801 White’s Ferry Rd, MD 107,Dickerson 20842301-349-5200Daily, 5am-11pm.

46

buildings. Nearby, you will find theNational Shrine Grotto of Lourdes,which is situated high on the moun-tainside, where nature displays itselfin all its wild and picturesque glory.

Continue south to see the circa-1856Roddy Road Covered Bridge, whichstretches for 40 feet over one of thearea’s finest trout streams. Here, youcan branch off from US 15 onto MD77 and enjoy an Upper Loop tourthat traverses both a national parkand a state park. The Upper Loop isconnected via MD 17 to a LowerLoop that touches the AppalachianNational Scenic Trail. See descriptionsfor both the Upper Loop and LowerLoop below.

Nearby is the 50-acre CatoctinWildlife Preserve and Zoo, where, fornine months out of the year, you can

visit with lemurs, mon-keys, panthers and morethan 400 other animals.

Back on US 15 and enter-ing Frederick, this bywayoverlaps with two others –the Antietam Campaign(pages 39-46) and HistoricNational Road (pages 7-18). The town has seem-ingly played a part in everymajor chapter of Americanhistory for the last 260years. Guided walkingtours and candlelightghost tours take visitorspast breathtaking architec-ture and several siteslinked to celebrated“locals” such as “Star-Spangled Banner” writerFrancis Scott Key and

49

While the hardwood forests encirclingCatoctin Mountain are a natural won-der, serving as a sanctuary for wildlifeand plants, surrounding towns offer adeep exploration of the area’s richindustrial heritage. The mountain’sold paths and roads trace a variety oftraditional Appalachian entrepreneur-ial endeavors, including farms,sawmills and the making of moon-shine.

Catoctin Mountain – the easternmostspur of the Blue Ridge Province – risesto its greatest elevation of 1,885 feetabove sea level in Thurmont’sCatoctin Mountain Park and then issplit by a gap at Point of Rocks onthe Potomac River. In between, travel-ers on this state and national scenicbyway can follow two “loops” foreasy access to a variety of historic

sites, the state’s highest waterfall, andabundant trails for hiking and biking.

Emmitsburg to Point of Rocks –US 15, MD 806, US 340, US 15Just south of the Pennsylvania borderis Emmitsburg. To orient you to theheritage and culture throughout thisbyway, a great place to start youradventure is at the Mason and DixonDiscovery Center. During the CivilWar, troops passed through this areawhile going to and from the Battle ofGettysburg. Union troops camped onthe grounds of the former St.Joseph’s College, and officers plannedbattle strategies in the former homeof the school’s founder, Elizabeth AnnSeton. A National Shrine honorsMother Seton, who was the firstAmerican-born saint, has a visitorcenter, basilica and restored period

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95 miles fromEmmitsburg toPoint of Rocks

On the south side of MD 77 isCunningham Falls State Park, the cen-terpiece of which is a 78-foot water-fall that cascades into a rocky gorge.Hike from a picnic area off CatoctinHollow Road, and also enjoy a swimin the 43-acre Hunting Creek Lake. Atthe southern end of the park is theCatoctin Furnace, which was in oper-ation from 1776 until 1905, and oncewas manned by African craftsmen.Trails lead to a furnace stack and theiron master’s manor house.

Pass through the town of Smithsburg,which, when founded in 1806 at thebase of South Mountain, served as abanking and trading center for thearea’s fruit growers. Follow MD 491beyond Cascade and into Pen Mar.The Western Maryland Railway devel-oped this area as a mountain resortand amusement park. Next, take MD

550 through Blue Ridge Mountainforest and farmland towardSabillasville. The highway here wasoriginally called Old Gap Road andconnected the Catoctin Furnace withforges in Pennsylvania.

Lower Loop from Smithsburg –MD 17, Highland School Rd,Gambrill Park Rd, US 40, MD 17Travel over South Mountain intoWolfsville, and then continue southon MD 17, skirting the pastoral valleycarved by Middle Creek. Bear left onHighland School Road, which crossesthe summit of Catoctin Mountain,and then turn right to enter GambrillState Park. Pause on the 1,600-footsummit of High Knob to viewMiddletown and the Monocacy Valleystretched out below, and also enjoyhiking and mountain biking through-out the area.

Key’s father-in-law, Supreme CourtChief Justice Roger Brooke Taney.Dozens of specialty shops, art gal-leries, antiques stores and restaurantsalso occupy Downtown Frederick.

This byway concludes at Point ofRocks, which achieved nationalrecognition in 1830 when the B&ORailroad and C&O Canal fought overthe right of way between CatoctinMountain and the Potomac River. Therailroad finally tunneled through themountain in 1867, but you can pickup the C&O Canal scenic byway(pages 27-38) here at its midwaypoint.

Upper Loop from Thurmont –MD 77, 491 & 550Head west on MD 77 to crossCatoctin Mountain and ascend besidecool, clear Big Hunting Creek and its

tributary, Cunningham Falls. Thecreek is a favorite among anglersseeking trout. Catoctin MountainPark, which lies to the north of thehighway, is federal property acquiredin 1936 as an experiment in develop-ing forest on marginal land. TheCamp David presidential retreat locat-ed here is closed to the public, butseveral nearby paths trace the historyof the industrial use of the mountain.Near the park’s visitor center, a shortinterpretive trail takes you to the BlueBlazes Still, where moonshine makersturned out 25,000 gallons of cornwhiskey before the still was raidedand shut down in 1929. At the otherend of the park is a sawmill replicabuilt on the site of a real sawmill thatoperated into the late 1890s. Othertrails explore the wood-cutting indus-try and the life of colliers who prac-ticed charcoal making.

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Catoctin Mountain ParkMD Rt 77, 6602 Foxville RdThurmont, 21788301-668-9388www.nps.gov/cato

Catoctin Wildlife Preserve and Zoo13019 Catoctin Furnace RdThurmont, 21788301-271-3180www.cupzoo.com

Cunningham Falls State Park14039 Catoctin Hollow RdThurmont, 21788301-271-7574www.dnr.state.md.us/publiclands/western/cunninghamfalls.html

Gambrill State ParkUS Rt 40, 3 miles west of Federick,Gambrill Park Rd

Frederick, 21702301-271-7574www.dnr.state.md.us/publiclands/western/gambrill.html

Greenbrier State Park21843 National PikeBoonsboro, 21713301-791-4767www.dnr.state.us/publiclands/west-ern/greenbrier.html

National Shrine of St. ElizabethAnn Seton333 S Seton AveEmmitsburg, 21727301-447-6606www.setonshrine.org

Don’t put away your hiking boots justyet, because you’ll soon be comingup on one of the premier hikingopportunities in the United States.The Appalachian National Scenic Trailstretches more than 2,000 miles fromMaine to Georgia, and Maryland’s 40-mile portion passes near GreenbrierState Park. Follow US 40 toGreenbrier, which also features a 42-acre freshwater lake, as well as“mountain stones” that provide aglimpse into the earth’s geologic his-tory. From Greenbrier, take Route 17to complete the lower loop and joinMD 77.

OLD LINE LORE: Camp HiCatoctin, in what was then known as theCatoctin Recreational DemonstrationArea, was adapted by President FranklinD. Roosevelt as his personal mountain

retreat during World War II and named“Shangri-La.” Dwight Eisenhowerrenamed the presidential retreat CampDavid after his grandson.

Blue Blazes Whiskey StillCatoctin Mountain Park6602 Foxville RdThurmont, 21788301-663-9388www.nps.gov/cato

Catoctin FurnaceCunningham Falls State ParkCatoctin Furnace Rd, Rt 806Thurmont, 21788301-271-7574www.dnr.state.md.us/publiclans/west-ern/cunninghamfalls.html

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Roddy Road Covered BridgeNorth of Thurmont, off US 15Thurmont, 21788301-228-2888, 1-800-999-3613www.visitfrederick.org

Roger Brooke Taney & FrancisScott Key Museum121 S Bentz StFrederick, 21701301-228-2828, 1-800-999-3613

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Thurmont, settled around 1751 by afamily moving west fromPennsylvania. A small tool manufac-turing plant popped up, and then theWestern Maryland Railroad arrived in1872. The surrounding land not onlyfeatures picnicking, play areas andexceptional trout fishing in CatoctinMountain and Cunningham FallsState Park, but also boasts three cov-ered bridges built in the mid 1800s –Loy’s Station, Roddy Road and UticaMills.

Heading east on MD 77, the old rail-road town of Detour was developedaround a sawmill and woolen mill,both of which operated until 1849.Farther east, Uniontown is a 19th-century rural village with numerouscountry-style homes. The UniontownAcademy, now serving as a museum,

White picket fences. Quiet, tree-linedstreets. Rocking chairs on the frontporch. These are the sights associatedwith small-town U.S.A., and they’restill available for you to see as youstep back into a bygone era alongthis charming byway. Your tour, sepa-rated into an Upper and Lower loop,can include leisurely drives past wide-open fields, window-shopping forantiques, dining with “locals” at theeatery on the corner, and then drift-ing off to sleep on a four-post bedinside a quaint country inn.

Upper Loop from Emmitsburg –US 15, MD 77, 140, 832 & 140 The Emmitsburg Historic District,which is comprised of more than 200buildings, shows off many of thearchitectural styles popular in America

during the 18th and early 19th cen-turies. Beyond Main Street, alongSeton Avenue, you can visit theNational Shrine of St. Elizabeth AnnSeton, recognized as the first native-born American saint. Among therestored period buildings on theproperty are the 1810 White House,circa-1750 Stone House, andMortuary Chapel from 1846. Yourspiritual journey continues with astop at the National Shrine Grotto ofLourdes. This “holy mountain sanctu-ary,” found on the campus of MountSaint Mary’s University, was often vis-ited by Mother Seton during her“rosary walks” in the early 1800s,and still attracts thousands of pilgrimseach year for prayer and meditation.

Follow the Catoctin Mountain byway(page 47) south along US 15 to

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111 miles fromEmmitsburg to

Mount Airy

Lower Loop from Uniontown –MD 84, 75 & 31The Lower Loop of the Old MainStreets byway meets with the UpperLoop in Uniontown, then strikessouth toward Linwood on MD 84. Anumber of Victorian-era homes havesmokehouses, windmills and icehous-es. Following MD 75 to the west isUnion Bridge, where the Main Street-based Western Maryland RailwayHistorical Society Museum is filledwith artifacts and memorabilia toaccompany an N-scale model railroad.

South on MD 75 beyond Johnsville isLibertyown, which was an old turn-pike stop as farmers carried grain tothe Baltimore port. Next, you loopnortheast on MD 31 toward NewWindsor, which was called SulphurSprings when settled in the early 19thcentury. The historic New Windsor

Conference Center offers a tranquilretreat for numerous non-profitgroups, churches and families duringthe year. From there rejoin MD 84 tocomplete the tour.

Mount Airy Branch – MD 26,808 & 27, 26, Woodville Rd,Shirley Bohn Rd, Buffalo Rd, MD 808, which is MainStreetBelow the Lower Loop, this bywaybranches off from Libertytown toUnionville and then straddles the bor-der between Frederick and Carrollcounties as it heads along Woodville,Shirley Bohn and Buffalo roads. Lookacross the countryside for a trio ofvineyards – BerrywinePlantations/Linganore Winecellars, ElkRun Vineyards and Loew Vineyards.Take a tour of each operation, sample

is a former one-room schoolhouse,while down the road in Westminsteris McDaniel College, a liberal arts andsciences institution established in1867. Originally known as WesternMaryland College, it was the first co-educational college south of theMason and Dixon Line. Summertimeis especially busy on campus, as spec-tators watch the Baltimore Ravensfootball team conduct practice beforethe NFL season gets under way.

Main Street in Westminster is hometo the Carroll County Arts Council, aswell as three 19th-century buildingsunder the auspices of the HistoricalSociety of Carroll County. Inside you’llfind an exhibition gallery, a researchlibrary and displays of historic toysand dolls. Turning south onto CenterStreet affords a glimpse into thearea’s agricultural heritage at the

140-acre Carroll County FarmMuseum. In addition to farm displaysand artisan demonstrations, themuseum hosts special events such asthe annual Maryland Wine Festival.Sidetracking north along MD 97, youcome to the Union Mills Homesteadand Grist Mill, a Maryland Civil WarTrails site that explores the dividedloyalties of the family that operatedthe mill.

The road back to Emmitsburg on MD140 rolls through Taneytown, an agri-cultural trading center established in1762 by a relative of U.S. SupremeCourt Justice Roger Brooke Taney.Settle here for the night in a historiccountry inn or cozy bed and break-fast.

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301-271-7574www.dnr.state.md.us/publiclands/western/cunninghamfalls.html

Elk Run Vineyards15113 Liberty RdMount Airy, 21771410-775-2513, 1-800-414-2513www.elkrun.com

Historical Society of Carroll County 210 East Main St, Westminster, 21157410 -848-6494www.hscc.carr.org/property/proper-ties.htm

Loew Vineyards14001 Liberty Rd, Rt 26Mount Airy, 21771301-831-5464www.loewvineyards.net

McDaniel College 2 College HillWestminster, 21157410-848-7000www.mcdaniel.edu

National Shrine Grotto of LourdesMount St. Mary’s CollegeUS Rt 15 South, 19 E Church StEmmitsburg, 21727301-447-5318www.msmary.edu/grotto

National Shrine of St. ElizabethAnn Seton333 Seton AveEmmitsburg, 21727301-447-6606www.setonshrine.org

the wine and settle down for a quietpicnic.

MD 808 is Main Street for MountAiry. Parks around town offer oppor-tunities for fishing, hiking and otherrecreation before you pick up MD 27and link into the Historic NationalRoad byway (page 7).

OLD LINE LORE: The Utica MillsCovered Bridge spanned the nearbyMonocacy River until being washed awayduring a severe storm in 1889. Theremains of the 101-foot-long bridge weregathered and reassembled at its presentlocation above Fishing Creek.

Berrywine Plantations/LinganoreWinecellars13601 Glissans Mill RdMount Airy, 21771410-831-5889

www.linganore-wine.com

Carroll County Arts Council91 West Main Street Westminster, 21157 410-848-7272www.carrollarts@earthlink.net

Carroll County Farm Museum500 S Center StWestminster, 21157410-386-3880, 1-800-654-4645www.carrollcountyfarmmuseum.org

Catoctin Mountain Park6602 Foxville Rd Thurmont, 21788301-663-9330, 301-663-9388www.nps.gov/cato

Cunningham Falls State Park14039 Catoctin Furnace RdThurmont, 21788

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New Windsor Conference CenterP.O. Box 188, 500 Main St New Windsor, 217761- 800-766-1553, 410-635-8700www.brethren.org/genbd/nwcc/

Western Maryland RailwayHistorical Society Museum41 North Main StUnion Bridge, 21791410-775-0150, 410-356-9199www.moosevalley.org/wmrhs

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North on MD 97, the Union MillsHomestead and Grist Mill is a shortsidetrack away. On the road toGettysburg, Union Mills holds CivilWar significance for hosting bothUnion and Confederate soldiers. Atthe homestead, which is an importantsite on the Maryland Civil War Trail,one brother sided with the Southern

cause while the other remained loyalto the North.

This byway continues throughMelrose on its way to Manchester, ahistoric community featuring the fam-ily-owned Cygnus Wine Cellars.Cygnus, one of more than 20 vine-yards throughout the state, is open

for wine tastings, retail sales andmany special events. Picking up MD25, you drive on a portion of the FallsRoad byway (page 71) until veeringeast toward Prettyboy Reservoir. Thereservoir’s hiking trails, picnic areasand scenic overlooks can be reachedfrom Beckleysville Road to KiddsSchoolhouse Road, and downstream

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Charles Mason and Jeremiah Dixonspent nearly four years in the 1760shelping to settle a land dispute bysurveying newly established bound-aries between Maryland,Pennsylvania, Virginia and Delaware.In decades to come, the line theydefined would become a symbolthroughout the United States for thecultural divide between North andSouth.

This easy-going byway, running westto east along the northern edge ofMaryland near its border withPennsylvania, takes a relaxing drive inthe country and incorporates bothhistorical encounters and recreationalendeavors. You’re also welcome toexperience life “down on the farm,”enjoying the many fruits ofMaryland’s agricultural entrepreneurs.

Emmitsburg to Harkins – MD 140, MD 97, MD 496, MD30, York St, Miller Station Rd,Alesia Rd, MD 25, BeckleysvilleRd, Kidds Schoolhouse, SpooksHill Rd, Rayville Rd,Middletown Rd, York Rd,Wiseburg Rd, White Hall Rd,MD 23, MD 136Begin at the Mason and DixonDiscovery Center on US 15 to assistwith all of your travel plans. Followpart of the Old Main Streets byway(page 55) toward Westminster, wherethe Carroll County Farm Museum hasbeen providing hands-on opportuni-ties to experience mid-19th-centuryrural life for more than 40 years.Several structures dot the farm’s 140acres, including a croquet lawn, fishpond and heirloom garden.

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143 miles fromEmmitsburg to

Appleton

Deer Creek Loop – MD 24, GrierNursery Rd, Cherry Hill RdOn your way east, check out the DeerCreek Loop, which runs south on MD24 and loops around with a series oflefthand turns. The loop begins alongthe hills and valleys of the Eden MillNature Center and Park, on the edgeof Deer Creek, a Scenic and WildRiver. A restored mill is the center-piece of the property, serving as thelaunching point for canoe trips, hikesand nature programs. Next comes the855-acre Rocks State Park, locatedwhere Deer Creek has cut a gorge250 feet deep. A popular, 190-footrock-climbing cliff, known as the Kingand Queen Seat, was once a ceremo-nial gathering place for theSusquehannock Nation of NativeAmericans. Tubing and fishing takeplace in the creek below.

Before returning to MD 24 and com-pleting the loop, travel through ForestHill. Farms in this rural area areknown for their hayrides, corn mazes,and fresh fruits and vegetables.

Harkins to Appleton – MD 136,US 1, MD 273 Bring a picnic basket and relax with abottle of wine at Pylesville-based FioreWinery, the winner of numerousinternational honors. Then, depend-ing on the season, your journey to afarm in the nearby town of Whitefordcan yield pumpkins, pony rides, tastyproduce or cut-your-own Christmastrees.

From Prospect, through Dublin, youbrush against the LowerSusquehanna Byway (page 83) and come to the edge of the

from the Prettyboy Dam is a catch-and-release fishing area that has beenrated among the best in the mid-Atlantic region for brown trout.

Around White Hall, amid rolling farm-land and fenced horse fields, thebyway overlaps with a portion of theNorthern Central Rail Trail. This aban-doned railroad bed is now a packedstone path running for 20 miles from

Hunt Valley to the Mason and DixonLine, with bike rentals availablethrough local vendors. Nearby is theGreystone Golf Course, a public, 18-hole venue noted for its naturalscenery. After a brush with the Horses& Hounds byway (page 77), you headnorth through Drybranch toNorrisville, and then parallel thePennsylvania Line heading towardHarkins.

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At 17-feet tall, Kilgore is the secondhighest free-falling waterfall inMaryland.

Applewood Farm4435 Prospect RdWhiteford, 21160410-836-1140www.applewoodfarm.org

Carroll County Farm Museum500 S Center StWestminster, 21157410-383-3880, 1-800-654-4645www.carrollcountyfarmmuseum.org

Cecil County Dragway1916 Theodore RdRising Sun, 21911410-287-6280www.cecilcountydragway.com

Cygnus Wine Cellars3130 Long LaneManchester, 21102410-768-3518, 410-766-4239

Eden Mill Park and Nature Center1617 Eden Mill Rd, Pylesville 21132410-638-3616www.edenmill.org

Fair Hill Natural ResourceManagement Area300 Tawes DrElkton, 21921410-398-1246www.dnr.state.md.us/publiclands/cen-tral/fairhill.html

Fiore Winery3026 Whiteford RdPylesville, 21132410-879-4007www.fiorewinery.com

Susquehanna River as it flows intothe Chesapeake Bay. Spanning thewaterway in Conowingo is one of thenation’s largest hydroelectric generat-ing stations, and below the dam youare treated to some of the best small-mouth bass fishing in the countryalong the lower SusquehannaHeritage Greenway. Birder’s Worldmagazine also recommends this areafor its winter birding opportunities.

Across the Conowingo Dam, RisingSun offers a variety of recreationaloutlets, ranging from the peacefulsetting of the Plumpton Park Zoo tothe high-octane action found at CecilCounty Dragway, a quarter-mile-long strip sanctioned by the National HotRod Association.

Into the northeastern-most corner ofthe state, where Charles Mason and

Jeremiah Dixon surveyed a hard angleat the borders of Maryland,Pennsylvania and Delaware, youarrive at the Fair Hill Natural ResourceManagement Area, where one of thefew Mason and Dixon markersremain. Formerly owned by a mem-ber of the duPont family who was anavid equestrian, this 5,613-acre facili-ty was purchased by the state morethan 30 years ago. In addition to hav-ing a turf course that hosts steeple-chases, timber runs and flat races,Fair Hill attractions include trout fish-ing at Big Elk Creek, admiring theFoxcatcher Farm Covered Bridge, andhiking on an 80-mile trail system.

Old Line Lore: Kilgore Falls,found in the Falling Branch area ofRocks State Park, was featured in theDisney film Tuck Everlasting (2002).

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Northern Central Rail Trail Gunpowder Falls State ParkMonkton410-592-2897

Plumpton Park Zoo1416 Telegraph RdRising Sun, 21911410-658-6850www.plumptonparkzoo.org

Rocks State Park3318 Rocks Chrome Hill RdJarretsville, 21084410-557-7994www.dnr.state.md.us/publiclands/cen-tral/rocks.html

Union Mills Homestead and Grist Mill3311 Littlestown Pike, MD 97Westminster, 21158410-848-2288http://tourism.carr.org/unionmil.htm

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campuses of Maryvale PreparatorySchool and St. Paul’s School, you findyourself amid an impressive array ofhistoric country estates scatteredthroughout the Green Spring Valley.Get a closer look with a quick side-track on MD 130 (Green Spring ValleyRoad), and then return to Falls Roadas it approaches Brooklandville.

Ruxton to Baltimore – MD 25Passing through an intersection withJoppa Road and the six-lane JonesFalls Expressway (I-83), you approachwhat looks like a medieval castle. TheCloisters, a mansion built in 1932with a design based on late medievalFrench and English architecture, isused for weddings and other specialevents. You are now inside theBaltimore Beltway (I-695), but stillable to see many stately homes amidnatural settings. A left turn on Ruxton

Road leads to the village of Ruxton,which was settled in 1699. One ofthe oldest African-American congre-gations in Maryland meets at tiny St.John’s Church. Directly across FallsRoad from Ruxton is Rockland, aNational Register Historic District,which takes its name from an 18th-century estate once owned byMaryland’s first governor, ThomasJohnson. Rockland grew up aroundthe milling industry and has becomea quiet community of impressivestone buildings.

Before crossing the Baltimore Cityline, Falls Road runs through BareHills, a community that took its namefrom the chromate, copper and ser-pentine rock mines that were activein the area during the 1800s. TheBare Hills of today is a residentialneighborhood featuring Gothic revival

For much of its length, Falls Road, orMD 25, follows the Jones Falls Valleyfrom the rolling countryside ofBaltimore County to bustlingBaltimore City. The Jones Falls was animportant source of power for gristand cotton mills in Baltimore’s earlydays. A string of mills along the valleyproduced goods that were taken intotown via the Falls Road Turnpike, andlater the North Central Railroad.Today, Falls Road remains mostlyrural, providing easy access to histori-cal and cultural attractions as countrylandscapes give way to a glitteringcityscape.

Prettyboy Reservoir toGreenspring Valley – MD 25Briefly overlapping with the Masonand Dixon byway (page 63), your FallsRoad tour begins in the village of

Alesia near the Prettyboy Reservoir.Hiking, fishing and paddle sports area few of the popular pursuits in thisarea at the reservoir and atGunpowder Falls State Park. Next,your route winds through rollingcountryside into deep, stream-cut val-leys, leading you past an intersectionwith the Horses & Hounds byway(page 77) and through the town ofButler. Stop and browse among thevarious antiques stores and specialtyshops before moving on to theOregon Ridge Nature Center andPark. Marble quarries, iron ore pitsand an archaeology site are just oneaspect of the 1,100-acre park, whichalso hosts outdoor events rangingfrom orchestral concerts to hot-airballoon ascensions.

Heading south past the beautiful

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39 miles fromPrettyboy Reservoir

to Baltimore

OLD LINE LORE: The Roland ParkShopping Center, built in 1896, is oneof America’s earliest shopping centers andwas the first to provide off-street parking.Stop by the bakery, the market, or one ofthe other shops.

Baltimore Clayworks 5707 Smith Avenue Baltimore410-578-1919 www.baltimoreclayworks.org

Baltimore Streetcar Museum1901 Falls Rd, Baltimore 21211410-547-0264www.baltimorestreetcar.org

Café Hon1002 W. 36th Street Baltimore 21211 410-243-1230www.cafehon.ezsitemaster.com

Clipper Mill 2010 Clipper Park Rd.Baltimore, 21211www.clippermill.net

The Cloisters10440 Falls RoadLutherville, 21094410-821-7448www.cloisterscastle.com/contact.aspx

Gunpowder Falls State Park2813 Jerusalem Road, P.O. Box 483 Kingsville, 21087(410) 592-2897www.dhr.state.md.us/publiclands/cen-tral/gunpowder.html

homes. Nearby you’ll find Robert E.Lee Park and Lake Roland, a popularsummer destination for generationsof Baltimoreans. The park is not onlydog-friendly, but features severalmiles of off-road running trails.

Baltimore – MD 25 to MarylandAvenueOn the northwest outskirts of the cityis what some sources consider to beone of Baltimore’s first suburb, MountWashington. This eclectic village hastree-lined streets leading to bou-tiques, galleries, taverns and outdoorcafés. Upscale shopping and outdoordining are also in vogue at the Villageof Cross Keys, which you pass enroute to Roland Park. Local authors,political figures and other notableshave been known to make theirhome here in this shaded retreat.

Along 36th Street, the traditionalcommercial artery within the villageof Hampden, restaurants, shops andgalleries often cater to students andfaculty coming from nearby JohnsHopkins University. Other neighbor-hoods in the area include Woodberryand Brick Hill, both of which startedout as housing for textile workers innearby Meadow Mill. Today, the millitself houses an athletic club, a smalleclectic theatre, and non-profitgroups with an artistic bent, such asthe Potters Guild of Baltimore andthe local Gem Cutters Guild.

Near the end of this byway is theBaltimore Streetcar Museum, whichchronicles 100 years of BaltimoreStreet railway history. You can alsojump to other byways within the city,including the National HistoricSeaport (page 97) and Charles Street(page 89).

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Oregon Ridge Nature Center and Park13555 Beaver Dam RdCockeysville, 21030410-887-1815www.oregonridge.org

Mount Washington Villagehttp://www.mtwashingtonvillage.com

Potters Guild of Baltimore 3600 Clipper Mill RdBaltimore 21211 410-235-4884, 410-235-4885info@pottersguild.org

Prettyboy Reservoir410-887-5683

Robert E. Lee Park & Lake RolandFalls Rd at Lakeside DrBaltimore, 21209410-396-7931

The Village of Cross Keys5100 Falls RoadBaltimore 21210410-323-1000

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on a hill overlooking the four-mile,22-fence racecourse.

The humble, 19th-century town ofGlyndon, found near Reisterstown,grew up as a popular summer com-munity accessible via the WesternMaryland Railroad. Up MD 128 is St.John’s Episcopal Church, built in 1869and serving as the site of a “Blessingof the Hounds” ceremony held eachThanksgiving Day. A drive alongBelmont Road takes you through abroad valley and past SagamoreFarm, once among the country’s lead-ing Thoroughbred farms.

On a three-mile timber course inButler, the century-old Grand NationalSteeplechase is another springtimetradition. From there, the route pass-es through the small town of White

House, beyond rolling countryside, toHereford, a 19th-century village thatgrew up around the York Pike.Gunpowder Falls State Park’s

Hereford Wildlands features steep-sided valleys, rocky trails and anupland forest habitat for manyspecies of birds. See local outfitters

The sounds of hunting horns andbaying hounds seem to echo amongthe valleys and vistas of this route, asif you’ve driven into the wide-openEnglish countryside. Though locatedin an area traditionally known as huntcountry – fox hunting and steeple-chase races are still popular here –the farms you see along the way arealso famous for producingThoroughbreds that have raced onmajor tracks across America.

Shawan to Hereford – TuftonAve, Worthington Ave, MD 128,Dover Rd, Trenton Rd, MD 88,Grace Rd, MD 137 & MD 45Start your tour by leaving I-83 at Exit20 West, which takes you towardShawan. First, plan to stop at theOregon Ridge Nature Center andPark, with its forest hiking trails,

wildlife management pond, archaeol-ogy site and excellent birding areas.Shawan Downs, a premier equestrianfacility located on 300 acres of for-mer farmland, attracts thousands ofspectators each autumn for a seriesof steeplechase races known as theLegacy Chase.

Along Tufton Avenue, country storesand farm markets offer an abundanceof fresh fruits and vegetables duringthe growing season. Continue westthrough Worthington Valley, an 18th-century farming area that is much asit was when the ancestors of manycurrent residents first settled here.Just up the road, a world-famoussteeplechase race, the time-honoredMaryland Hunt Cup, has been heldeach spring since 1894. Fans enjoy anafternoon of tailgating and picnicking

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100 miles fromShawan to

Cromwell Valley

winery, Hydes-based BoordyVineyards. Established in 1945,Boordy operates amid a cluster of19th-century farm buildings, offeringtours, wine tastings and specialevents throughout the year. Just upLong Green Pike is St. John theEvangelist Catholic Church. The struc-ture you see today was built in 1855after the original church, establishedin 1822, burned down. Next, explorethe scenic roadways of the LochRaven Reservoir and Cromwell Valley,stopping to enjoy hiking, biking orfishing.

Sidetrack east along a portion ofGunpowder Falls State Park towardKingsville and the historic JerusalemMill. A gristmill village remained busyin the area for nearly two centuries,beginning in 1772. Today you mightbe able to catch a living-history

demonstration while touring the mill,blacksmith shop and gun factory.

Your journey concludes in Towson,where the Hampton National HistoricSite takes visitors back to 18th-centu-ry high life. When the mansion wascompleted in 1790, it represented theheight of post-Revolutionary Waropulence, with gardens, an icehouseand stables. Original slave quartersare also on site.

Old Line Lore: Native Dancer,one of the top-ranked U.S. Thoroughbredchampions of all time, is buried in anondescript equine cemetery at SagamoreFarm in the Glyndon area. Nicknamed“The Gray Ghost,” Native Dancer wasthe first horse made famous through tele-vision and was also featured on the coverof the May 31, 1954 Time magazine.

about canoes, bikes, inner tubes, orcomplete guide services.

Hereford to Jacksonville – MD 138, Troyer Rd, HarfordCreamery Road, Madonna Rd & MD 146Enter Monkton by way of MD 138.Surrounded by horse farms and well-preserved estates, this historic millcommunity along the GunpowderFalls was once served by the NorthCentral Railroad. Today, a hiking andbiking trail follows the abandonedrailroad bed up to the Pennsylvanialine, linking into the Mason andDixon byway (page 63). Headingsouth on MD 146, visit the LadewTopiary Gardens, featuring 22 acresof fancifully shaped shrubbery and 15thematic flower gardens surroundinga historic manor house. Furthersouth, one of the oldest and most

grueling steeplechase courses in thecountry is found at My Lady’s Manor,which was property given by the thirdLord Baltimore to his fourth wife in1713.

Begin to loop back to your startingpoint by turning right on ManorRoad, or follow MD 146 south toJacksonville, which is a commercialcenter for the surrounding rural area.

Jacksonville to Cromwell Valley –MD 146, Dulaney Valley Rd,Manor Rd, Hydes Rd, LongGreen Pike, Glen Arm Rd &Cromwell Bridge Rd You’re still in “Horse Country” as youhead south on MD 146 fromJacksonville, but a variety of recre-ational opportunities present them-selves at each turn. Take a picnic bas-ket along with you to Maryland’s first

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Boordy Vineyards12820 Long Green PikeHydes, 21082410-592-5015www.boordy.com

Cromwell Valley ParkSherwood Farm and Park office2002 Cromwell Bridge RdBaltimore, 21234410-887-2503www.bcpl.net/~cvpark/

Gunpowder Falls State Park2813 Jerusalem RdKingsville, 21087410-592-2897www.dnr.state.md.us/publiclands/cen-tral/gunpowder/html

Hampton National Historic Site535 Hampton Lane Towson, 21286410-823-1309www.nps.gov/hamp

Ladew Topiary Gardens3535 Jarretsville PikeMonkton, 21111410-557-9466www.ladewgardens.com

Loch Raven Reservoir1201 Dulaney Valley RdTowson, 21402410-887-5683

Northern Central Rail TrailGunpowder Falls State Park410-592-2897

Oregon Ridge Nature Center and Park13555 Beaver Dam RdCockeysville, 21030410-887-1815www.oregonridge.org

Shawan DownsP.O. Box 433Lutherville-Timonium, 21094410-666-3676www.shawandowns.org/main/con-tact/contact.htm

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To learn about the area’s seafaringheritage, visit the Havre de GraceMaritime Museum and then walk outto a waterfront promenade that leadspast the fully restored, 180-year-oldConcord Point Lighthouse, one of thelast beacons still in operation on theEast Coast. Other attractions either inHavre de Grace or on the outskirts oftown explore local agricultural tradi-tions (Steppingstone Museum), theart of waterfowl decoy carving (Havrede Grace Decoy Museum), and life ina lock house on the formerSusquehanna and Tidewater Canal(Susquehanna Museum of Havre deGrace).

MD 155 gives way to MD 161 andRock Lodge Road and runs alongsideSusquehanna State Park, with itmany mountain biking trails, easy

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One mile wide in some points, theSusquehanna River is the largest,non-navigable river in the UnitedStates, every minute pouring 19 mil-lion gallons of fresh water into theChesapeake Bay. It’s a river with his-tory, too, as European settlers estab-lished a prosperous fur trade herewith the Susquehannock Indians,which was the most powerful tribe ofthe upper Chesapeake Bay at thetime.

This byway begins west of the riverwhere it meets the bay, runs north sothat you can cross the ConowingoDam, and then loops around to themighty Susquehanna’s eastern shore.As you follow historic transportationroutes, hike along shaded trails orcast a line for American and hickoryshad, your trip through the Lower

Susquehanna Heritage Area promisesopportunities to learn about NativeAmerican and colonial life, as well asAmerica’s fight for independence,maritime traditions and industrialachievements.

Havre de Grace to ConowingoDam – MD 155, 161, Rock RunRd, Stafford Rd, Shuresville Rd,US 1The river port of Havre de Grace(“Harbor of Grace”) was well knownto colonial travelers for its quality innsand taverns. Even after most of thetown’s buildings were either dam-aged or destroyed by the British dur-ing the War of 1812, Havre de Gracebounced back as an important centerfor shipping and commerce. Todaythe town offers waterfront restau-rants and antiques shops.

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33 miles fromHavre de Grace to

Perryville

Follow Ararat Farm Road, andFrenchtown Road into Perryville tovisit the local railway museum. Downthe street is the early-18th-centuryRodgers Tavern, which, due to itsdelicious fare and proximity to a ferryboat landing, was a favorite stoppingplace for George Washington,Lafayette and other Revolutionary fig-ures. In addition to the history,Perryville has a 30-store, brand-nameoutlet center and 18-hole, baysidegolf course. Finally, walk to PerryPoint and look out across theSusquehanna River for a grand viewof Havre de Grace.

OLD LINE LORE: The LowerSusquehanna Heritage Greenway Trail,along a major hawk migration route inthe autumn, passes near a blue heronrookery as it extends from the ConowingoDam to Deer Creek. Birder’s World

magazine has recommended the areaaround the dam as a top-notch winterbirding site.

Concord Point LighthouseLafayette & Concord StsHavre de Grace, 21078410-939-9040www.decoymuseum.com

Conowingo Dam & HydroelectricPlantPO Box 327Conowingo, 21918(410) 457-5011http://esm.versar.com/pprp/power-plants-new/conowingo.htm

Havre de Grace Decoy Museum215 Giles StHavre de Grace, 21078410-939-9739www.decoymuseum.com

river-kayaking access, and quiet spotsfor bass, perch and pike fishing. The600-acre park is also home to histori-cal sites such as the circa-1794 RockRun grist mill, which features a 12-ton water wheel.

A sidetrack into the village ofDarlington reveals dignified homes ina classic, small-town setting, com-plete with tranquil tree-shadedstreets.

Conowingo Dam to Perryville –US 1, MD 222, Ararat Farm Rd,Frenchtown Rd, MD 7Stop at the Conowingo DamOverlook for a spectacular view ofthis 80-year-old engineering marvel,and then enjoy a scenic hiking or bik-ing trip along the mostly flat, 2.2-mileLower Susquehanna HeritageGreenway Trail. After following US 1

over the dam, you can continue northto link into the Mason and DixonByway (page 63) or turn south onMD 222 toward Port Deposit, whichflourished in the first half of the 19thcentury as a transit point for riverfreight. Built on a narrow bankbetween the river and granite cliffs,this one-street town prospered fromits mills and quarries. Look for theGeorgian-style Gerry House, which, inaddition to being one of the oldest ofthe town’s many 19th-century resi-dences, is also known for entertainingRevolutionary War hero, MajorGeneral Lafayette, as a guest in 1824.On a nearby bluff farther south alongMain Street is an imposing brick-and-stone stairway that climbs for 75steps to provide a view of both theSusquehanna River and four bridges.

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Havre de Grace Maritime Museum100 Lafayette StHavre de Grace, 21078410-939-4800www.hdgmartimemuseum.org

Perryville Railway MuseumBroad St. & Harford Ave.650 Broad Street 21903(410) 642-6429 www.perryvillemd.org/railroad.htm

Lower Susquehanna HeritageGreenway Trailhttp://brokenclaw.com/biking/susque-hanna.html

Rodgers Tavern259 Broad St, Perryville 21903410-642-6066

Steppingstone Museum461 Quaker Bottom RdHavre de Grace410-939-2299www.steppingstonemuseum.org

Susquehanna Museum of Havre deGraceLock House, 817 Conesteo StHavre de Grace, 21078410-939-5780www.lockhousemuseum.org

Susquehanna State ParkOff Rt 155Havre de Grace, 21084410-557-7994www.dnr.state.md.us./publiclands/central/susquehanna.html

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ulously escaped complete destructioniin the devastating Baltimore fire of1904. Further south is Friends School,which was founded in 1784, makingit the oldest school in Baltimore. Nextyou’ll see two notable institutions ofhigher learning with long traditionsof excellence. There’s the College ofNotre Dame, which in 1895 becamethe nation’s first Catholic College forwomen, and then Loyola College,founded by Jesuits in 1852. A slightdetour at Greenway and HighfieldRoad leads to the six-acre SherwoodGardens, where late-April rains bringthousands of tulips to bloom.

Proceeding through Guilford, you’reable to make a grand approach viaUniversity Parkway to the garden sub-urb of Roland Park. This late 19th-century residential community has

narrow, winding streets lined withelegant villas and mansions. Comingup is the Homewood campus ofinternationally acclaimed JohnsHopkins University, which featuresmore than 20 Georgian-style build-ings on its 100-acre campus. Visit the200-year-old Homewood HouseMuseum to see fine furnishings anddecorations from the 18th and 19thcenturies, and then learn more aboutAmerica’s first sport at the LacrosseMuseum and National Hall of Fame.

Charles Village to MountVernon PlaceCharles Village was developed in thelate 19th century as one ofBaltimore’s first suburban neighbor-hoods. Take time to admire LovelyLane Methodist Church, a StanfordWhite-designed building that contains

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Baltimore entertains millions of leisureand business travelers each year.Many of them come for the steamedcrabs and sailing, but more have dis-covered the world-renowned muse-ums, captivating performing arts,high-intensity professional sports, andfine ethnic dining. Charles Street,Baltimore’s grandest and best-knownartery, takes you on a 10-mile journeythrough some of the city’s most fash-ionable cultural, residential and com-mercial areas. Come experienceauthentic Baltimore and stop to shop,dine, sightsee, and seek out world-class entertainment. At the sametime, take note of several institutionswhose influence extends beyondBaltimore’s borders to the nation andthe globe.

Lutherville to Roland ParkTo the north, Charles Street appearsas a wooded parkway that begins justabove the Baltimore Beltway (I-695)and heads south into the heart of theBaltimore City Heritage Area with itseclectic neighborhoods, chic restau-rants and stately buildings. A side-track along Bellona Avenue leads intothe residential community ofLutherville, where dozens of historicstructures mingle with more modernhomes. Or you can journey intoTowson, with its popular shoppingareas, movie theaters and eateries.Back on Charles Street, this bywayheads south past the Cathedral ofMary our Queen, a massive stonechurch built in 1959 as a result of abequest made by Thomas O’Neill.O’Neill was an Irish born, multimil-lionaire merchant, whose store mirac-

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10 miles throughBaltimore

John Carroll blessed the laying of thecornerstone of the Basilica, which isconsidered one of the finest examplesof neo-classical architecture in theworld.

As you approach Baltimore’s famouswaterfront area, other cultural attrac-tions take center stage. 1st MarinerArena, hosts concerts, sports eventsand other entertainment. You canalso slip around the corner at EutawStreet to take in Broadway produc-tions at the Hippodrome Theatre atthe France-Merrick Performing ArtsCenter. Cornerstone of Baltimore’srecent westside renaissance, theHippodrome presents rich and diverseevents amid early 20th-centurygrandeur.

both a museum and archives.Branching west on Art MuseumDrive, then to Wyman Park Drive andDruid Hill Park, you get to visit severalkey destinations. First is the free-admission Baltimore Museum of Art,with its sculpture gardens and world-renowned collection of works by thelikes of Matisse and Picasso. Next,drive past the shaded lawns and pic-turesque water features of Druid HillPark to get to the Maryland Zoo inBaltimore. See animals from the fourcorners of the globe, and then walk,climb, slide and hop through the chil-dren’s zoo.

Back on Charles Street, BelvedereRow is an entire block of QueenAnne-style rowhouses. This is fol-lowed by Mount Vernon Place, thecenterpiece of which is a 208-foot-tallmonument topped by a 16-foot stat-

ue of George Washington. Othermonuments peek at you from nearbyparks as you approach two moreinternationally recognized destina-tions. To one side is the Walters ArtMuseum, which is also free and pres-ents 5,000 years of artistic achieve-ment. Across from the Walters, musicand dance performances take placeat the Hopkins-affiliated PeabodyInstitute. While in this area, take timeto shop at distinctive boutiques anddine at one of the numerous ethnicrestaurants, all of which express thefashion and influence of “CharmCity”.

Charles Street is famous for itsCathedral Hill Historic District. Thisconcentration of more than 100 cul-tural, educational, commercial andreligious buildings includes theBaltimore Basilica. In 1806, Bishop

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Cathedral” because it was the first metro-politan-area place of worship constructedfollowing adoption of the U.S.Constitution. A recent major renovationeffort now accentuates much of theBasilica’s early 19th-century beauty asenvisioned by original designer BenjaminLatrobe, architect of the U.S. Capitol.

1st Mariner Arena201 W. Baltimore SBaltimore, 21201 410-347-2020www.baltimorearena.com/contact-1st-mariner-arena.shtml

Baltimore Basilica408 North Charles StBaltimore, 21201410-767-3565

Baltimore Museum of ArtArt Museum Dr at Charles and 31st sts

Baltimore, 21230410-727-6000, 410-625-1600www.artbma.org

Baltimore Heritage Walk800 East Lombard StBaltimore, 21202443-514-5900

www.heritagewalk.org/index_files/Page1129.htm

Baltimore Visitor Center401 Light Street Baltimore, 212021-877-BALTIMOREwww.baltimore.org/visitors/v_vc.html

Cross Street Market10655 Charles StBaltimore, 21230www.southbaltimore.com/shop/crossmkt.html

The Hippodrome Theatre at theFrance-Merrick Performing ArtsCenter12 N Eutaw StBaltimore, 21201410-625-6249http://www.france-merrickpac.com/home.html

Inner Harbor AreaJust north of the Inner Harbor is thecity’s historic financial district, whichwas a bustle of commercial activitybetween 1900 and 1925. Today’sdowntown commercial center is a mixof old and new, highlighting OneCharles Center, a striking metal andglass building designed by LudwigMies van der Rohe, widely regardedas a pioneer of modern architecture.

Have a hankering for pigs’ ears, pick-led eggs or oxtails? These and otherfoodstuffs are often available at theCross Street Market. Or venture intothe surrounding bohemian neighbor-hood to find chic taverns, restaurantsand brew pubs. All of this is locatedvirtually in the shadows of Baltimore’stwo great outdoor sports venues:Oriole Park at Camden Yards, homeof the Baltimore Orioles baseball

team, and M&T Bank Stadium, the roost of professional football’sBaltimore Ravens.

Around the Inner Harbor, amongeateries, shops and numerous spotsto relax at water’s edge, attractionsinclude the Maryland Science Center,the National Aquarium in Baltimore,and Port Discovery, The Children’sMuseum. Learn about these destina-tions, as well as guided “HeritageWalk” tours of the Inner Harbor areaand Little Italy neighborhood, at theInner Harbor-based Baltimore VisitorCenter. You can also take this oppor-tunity to see more of Baltimore bylinking into the National HistoricSeaport Byway (page 97).

OLD LINE LORE: The BaltimoreBasilica, which celebrated its bicentenni-al in 2006, is known as “America’s First

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Homewood House Museum3400 N Charles StBaltimore, 21218410-516-5589www.jhu.edu/historichouses

Lovely Lane Museum2200 St. Paul StBaltimore, 21218410-889-4458www.lovelylanemuseum.com

Maryland Science CenterInner HarborBaltimore, 21230410-545-5927www.mdsci.org

Maryland Zoo in BaltimoreDruid Hill ParkBaltimore, 21217410-366-LIONwww.marylandzoo.org

National Aquarium in Baltimore5021 East Pratt StBaltimore, 21202410-576-3800, 410-576-3833www.aqua.org

National Lacrosse Museum andHall of Fame113 W. University ParkwayBaltimore, 21210410.235.6882http://www.uslacrosse.org/museum/index.phtml

Peabody Institute1 E Mount Vernon PlBaltimore, 21202410-659-8100www.peabody.jhu.edu

Port Discovery35 Market Pl410-727-8120www.portdiscovery.org

Sherwood GardensHighfield Rd & Greenway4100 GreenwayBaltimore, 21212410-785-0444

Walters Art Museum600 N Charles StBaltimore, 21201410-547-9000www.TheWalters.org

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Continue past Butchers Hill, a 19th-century neighborhood of brick row-houses overlooking the harbor, andfind Broadway so that you can followit into the National Historic District ofFells Point. This famous strip of cafés,markets, pubs and specialty shopswas a busy shipbuilding center in the18th and 19th centuries, producingmany Baltimore clipper schooners.Enjoy a visit to the FrederickDouglass-Isaac Myers Maritime Parkand learn about African-Americanmaritime history, the story ofFrederick Douglass’s transition fromenslaved child to educated youngman, and Chesapeake Bay ship-build-ing traditions. A stop at the FellsPoint Maritime Museum takes youeven deeper into the lives of ship-builders, sailors, merchants and privateers.

Little Italy to Inner Harbor –Fleet, President, Lombard &Light stsIn the shadow of the tower atop St.Leo’s Catholic Church, a neat line ofrowhouses lets you know you’re on

the southern end of Little Italy. Thisvibrant ethnic village surroundingFleet Street offers restaurants, cafésand grocery stores with a delectableItalian flavor. At the intersection ofFleet and President streets, visit the

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Baltimore is a beacon to the world.As one of America’s oldest seaports,it has witnessed four centuries’ worthof historical highlights and culturaltransformations. Everywhere youlook, you see evidence of the city’smaritime roots and ethnic diversitymingled with a wide variety of shops,restaurants, attractions and entertain-ment venues. Waterfront communi-ties connected by this byway sharerich traditions that only enhance theircontinued vitality.

In addition to being at the heart ofBaltimore City’s heritage area, theNational Historic Seaport of Baltimoreconnects a dozen tightly knit muse-ums and attractions that are thefocus of a partnership with the LivingClassrooms Foundation together withthe City of Baltimore and State ofMaryland.

Canton to Fells Point –O’Donnell St, Boston St,Aliceanna St, Wolfe St,Thames St, BroadwaySince the early 1700s, ships fromcountless foreign ports have beenattracted by this natural, deep-waterport, forever influencing the city. Startyour tour at O’Donnell Street andtravel through the heart of Canton,with its many restaurants, shops andtaverns. In the 19th century, Cantonwas notable for its canneries, fertilizerplants and manufacturing facilitiesthat employed German, Irish, Polishand Welsh immigrants. The formerAmerican Can Company, once amajor manufacturing complex, nowhouses a combination of specialtyshops and offices.

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Seven miles alongthe Baltimore

waterfront

on the 27th floor of Baltimore’sWorld Trade Center, and enjoy apanoramic view. You can take awater taxi. And there are even occa-sional opportunities to sail aboardMaryland’s Pride of Baltimore II, areproduction of an 1812-era clipperprivateer. This also marks the trail-head of the Historic National Road onpage 7.

Stepping into the past is also veryeasy, thanks to the Baltimore HeritageWalk. This looping, 3.2-mile trail,which is marked every 20 feet by dis-tinctive disks embedded in the side-walk, connects 20 historic sites andmuseums, many of which are men-tioned in this byway. Take a self-guid-ed tour, or, from May throughNovember, join a guided walk thatcovers half of the route and leaves

from the Inner Harbor-basedBaltimore Visitor Center.

Federal Hill to Locust Point –Key Hwy, Fort Ave.Along Key Highway, another picture-perfect view of the Inner Harbor isavailable from Federal Hill. This van-tage point was fortified by the Unionarmy at the beginning of the CivilWar, but today it’s a quiet place to sitor stroll. Then, beyond the popularMaryland Science Center on thesouth side of the harbor area, twomore museums have earned nationalrecognition. At the BaltimoreMuseum of Industry, visitors gethands-on experience with technolo-gies once used in printing, glass mak-ing, oyster canning, and more. Then,for something completely different,the American Visionary Art Museum

Baltimore Civil War Museum-President Street Station. ThisMaryland Civil War Trails site servedthe railroad line that FrederickDouglass used to carry him from slav-ery to freedom in the north. Here, inApril 1861, Union soldiers arrived inBaltimore to be met by an angry mobof Southern sympathizers. The ensu-ing riot resulted in 16 deaths – thefirst bloodshed of the Civil War.

Near where President meets PrattStreet (which is one way going westto east), the Flag House and Star-Spangled Banner Museum tells thestory of Mary Pickersgill sewing the30-foot by 42-foot flag that flew soproudly over the ramparts at nearbyFort McHenry. Virtually next door isthe Reginald F. Lewis Museum ofMaryland African American Historyand Culture, the largest museum of

its kind on the East Coast. Picking upLombard Street and turning left onLight Street, the numerous shops,eateries and attractions of the InnerHarbor come into view. Outside theNational Aquarium in Baltimore,which recently opened a permanent“Animal Planet Australia” wing, youcan admire a lighthouse, submarine,Coast Guard cutter and lightship thatare all part of the Baltimore MaritimeMuseum. Then climb on board theUSS Constellation, which waslaunched in 1854 to become the lastall-sail ship built by the U.S. Navy.

There are several ways to see theseand other waterfront attractionsbesides driving. You can “Ride theDucks,” which is a land-and-seasightseeing tour on an amphibiousvehicle. You can climb to the Top ofthe World Observation Level, located

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Baltimore Civil War Museum-President Street Station601 President St, Baltimore 21202410-385-5188www.mdhs.org

Baltimore Maritime MuseumPiers 3 & 5, Baltimore 21231410-396-3453www.baltomaritimemuseum.org

Baltimore Museum of Industry1415 Key Hwy, Baltimore 21230-5100410-727-4808www.thebmi.org

Fells Point Maritime Museum1724 Thames St, Baltimore 21231410-732-0278www.mdhs.org

Fort McHenry National Monumentand Historic Shrine2400 E Fort Ave, Baltimore 21230-5393410-962-4290www.nps.gov/fomc

Frederick Douglass-Isaac MyersMaritime Park1417 Thames St, Baltimore 21231410-685-0295www.douglassmyers.org

Pride of Baltimore IIInner Harbor (when in port) Baltimore 21202410-539-1151, 1-888-554-7433www.marylandspride.org

brings some of the United States’best, self-taught artistry to the fore-front.

This byway concludes at Locust Point,where, prior to World War I, thou-sands of immigrants arrived andeither took a train west or stayed inBaltimore to make a new life. In fact,Locust Point was second only to NewYork’s Ellis Island as a receiving pointfor European immigrants. Theypassed the star-shaped fort thatplayed a crucial role in the defense ofBaltimore during the War of 1812.Today, the Fort McHenry NationalMonument and Historic Shrine, whichis also one of the final stops on theStar-Spangled Banner byway (seepage 105), is still admired each yearby thousands of travelers who wantto see the place that inspired Francis

Scott Key to write our NationalAnthem.

OLD LINE LORE: The Seven-FootKnoll Lighthouse, which is now part ofthe Baltimore Maritime Museum, wasoriginally situated more than 150 yearsago at the mouth of the Patapsco River,where Lightkeeper Thomas Steinheise res-cued five men from a tugboat during araging storm in 1933. Steinheise wasawarded a Congressional Medal, thehighest civilian honor.

American Visionary Art Museum800 Key Hwy, Baltimore 21230-3940410-244-1900www.avam.org

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Reginald F. Lewis Museum ofMaryland African AmericanHistory and Culture830 E Pratt St, Ste 400, Baltimore21202443-263-1800www.africanamericanculture.org

Ride the Ducks of Baltimore25 Light St, Ste 300, Baltimore 21202410-727-3825www.baltimoreducks.com

Top of the World ObservationLevelWorld Trade Center, 401 E Pratt St,27th Fl, Baltimore 21202-3016410-837-VIEWwww.bop.org

USS Constellation MuseumPier 1, 301 E Pratt St, Baltimore21202410-539-1797www.constellation.org

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Navy respond with afleet of lightly armed,shallow-draft bargesthat would be fasterand more maneuverablethan enemy vessels.Barney was subsequent-ly promoted to com-modore and, by May1814, took charge ofhis new “ChesapeakeFlotilla.”

In Solomons, which is amarina-rimmed fishingvillage with fine seafooddining and a number ofintriguing attractions,the Calvert MarineMuseum has exhibitsthat feature war arti-facts and trace troop

Follow a scenic, 100-mile trail thatreturns you to the waning days of theWar of 1812, also known as“America’s Second War ofIndependence.” As fighting contin-ued throughout the summer of 1814(just a few months prior to the war’sconclusion), Maryland’s brave defend-ers not only stood strong againstBritish invaders up and down theChesapeake Bay, but also inspired thepoem that would become ourNational Anthem.

More information about key sitesalong this route is available in abrochure entitled, “Star-SpangledBanner Trail: War of 1812Chesapeake Campaign” are availableby calling 1.866.772.1812. Many ofthese destinations are also part of theChesapeake Bay Gateways Network,

meaning you have easy access tonumerous bay-based recreationalopportunities just beyond the histori-cal landmarks.

This byway follows a northerly course,tracing the chronology of theChesapeake Campaign as Britishtroops made their way along the bay,leading up to the perilous fight inBaltimore made famous by FrancisScott Key’s “Star-Spangled Banner.”

Solomons to Benedict – MD 2/4, MD 264, Grays Road,MD 506, Sixes Road, MD 231 The War of 1812 had been raging forless than a year when British Navyships blockaded the Chesapeake Bay.Capt. Joshua Barney, a hero of theAmerican Revolution, came out ofretirement to suggest that the U.S.

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106 miles fromSolomons to

Baltimore

Benedict to Baltimore – MD 381,MD 382, US 301, MD 4, I-495, MD 202 , I-295 Ostend &Hanover sts, & FortAveWith Washington, D.C.as their goal, Britishforces occupied thetobacco port town ofLower Marlboro andlinked their Army andNavy for the first time innearby Upper Marlboro.Today, treat yourself to aspectacular view of thePatuxent River from theMount Calvert Historicaland Archaeological Park,and then enjoy a varietyof recreational and cultural opportunities

movements as Barney fought futilelyagainst a larger and more heavilyarmed British force. Also, stop by theSolomons Regional InformationCenter, a Chesapeake Bay Gatewayssite, for more history of the area anddetails about other places to visit.

Near Lusby, where you can hunt forfossils at Calvert Cliffs State Park orgo fishing at Flag Ponds Nature Park,follow a branch south on MD 265 toJefferson Patterson Park andMuseum. This archaeology and histo-ry center tells of two battles thatoccurred in June 1814 and almostresulted in the capture of Barney’sflotilla. Each September, JeffersonPatterson Park and Museum hosts aWar of 1812 Tavern Night celebra-tion, as well as a commemorative“Battle of St. Leonard Creek” re-enactment, which includes demon-

strations of crafts and trades of theperiod. For a closer observation of theregion’s unique environment, take ahike along a boardwalk through theBattle Creek Cypress SwampSanctuary, located along MD 506near Prince Frederick. The town itselfwas burned by British raiders.

By July 1814, Royal Marines occupiedChaptico, Leonardtown and otherSouthern Maryland locations, raidingprivate homes and confiscatingtobacco, flour and firearms. The fol-lowing month found more than4,000 enemy troops probing deeperalong the Patuxent River, seeking asuitable landing spot for an invasionof Washington, D.C. They choseBenedict, a riverside town known asmuch for its fishing, sailing andseafood restaurants as its War of1812 history.

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British forces soonentered Washington,D.C., unopposed, burnedmany of the public build-ings, and then returned tothe town of Benedict tore-embark their ships.Your route, however, follows the Baltimore WashingtonParkway (MD 295), planned in the1920s as part of the federal govern-ment’s parkway system forWashington, D.C. The parkway exem-plifies the aesthetic and design princi-ples of this important phase ofAmerican transportation history.Follow MD 295 up past College Park,Greenbelt and Beltsville. Cultural out-lets in these areas range from per-forming arts venues and an agricul-tural research center to space flightand aviation museums.

America’s “Second War ofIndependence” lit up Baltimore inSeptember 1814. Expecting to cruisewith little resistance into the city’sharbor, a British fleet was insteadfrustrated by Lt. Col. GeorgeArmistead and his men inside FortMcHenry. Their courage was wit-nessed by Francis Scott Key, aMaryland lawyer who had beendetained on board a cartel vesselafter facilitating an American prison-er’s release. By the rockets’ red glare,Key watched bombs burst all alongthe shoreline. But when the smokecleared and British ships pulled back,

a large American flag – measuring 42feet by 30 feet – still fluttered overthe fort’s ramparts. At sunset on mostdays, visitors to the Fort McHenryNational Monument and HistoricShrine can hear the playing of Key’s“Star-Spangled Banner” while partici-pating in a ceremonial flag lowering.The hand-penned version of Key’spoem is displayed at the MarylandHistorical Society. Also in Baltimore,the home of Fort McHenry flagmakerMary Pickersgill has been preserved asthe Flag House & Star-SpangledBanner Museum.

around town. Next, tour CroomAirport, the first African-Americanowned and operated airport on theeastern seaboard. Upper Marlboro isalso popular among equestrians whoride on miles of trails in local parksand attend events at the PrinceGeorge’s Equestrian Center/ShowPlace Arena.

An ambitious sidetrack east not onlytakes you to the Roots & Tides byway(page 121) but allows you to hearmore War of 1812 tales at sites inAnnapolis and across the ChesapeakeBay Bridge on Maryland’s EasternShore. St. Michaels, for instance, hasbeen known as “The Town thatFooled the British” ever since a sum-mer night in 1813 when, to misdirecta British naval bombardment, resi-dents supposedly extinguished all of

their lights and hung lanterns in treesnorth of town.

Other relevant destinations are foundjust to the west, at places like FortWashington. But the main line of thisbyway heads north into Bladensburg,where a waterfront park provides niceviews of the narrow, Anacostia Riverbridge that British forces crossed toattack American defenses during theBattle of Bladensburg, August 24,1814. Having scuttled theirChesapeake Flotilla to join the land-based troops, Commodore Barneyand his men fought a brave but futilerear-guard action. In the battle’s after-math, Rosalie Stier Calvert, known asthe “Mistress of Riversdale”, volun-teered slaves to bury the dead, andthen collected weapons and otheritems. This Federal-period plantationhome now offers docent-guidedtours.

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Battle Creek Cypress SwampSanctuary2880 Grays Road Prince Frederick, 20678410-535-3400

Bladensburg Waterfront ParkAnacostia River4601 Annapolis RoadBladensburg, 20710301-779-0371http://www.pgparks.com/places/nature/bladensburg.html

Calvert Marine Museum14150 Solomons Island RdSolomons, 20688410-326-2042www.calvertmarinemuseum.com

Flag House & Star-SpangledBanner Museum844 E. Pratt StBaltimore, 21202410-837-1793www.flaghouse.org

Fort McHenry National Monument& Historic Shrine2400 E Fort AveBaltimore, 21250-5393410-962-4290www.nps.gov/fomc

Jefferson Patterson Park &Museum10515 Mackall RdSt. Leonard, 20685410-586-8500www.jefpat.org

At this point, follow the NationalHistoric Seaport byway (page 97) toinvestigate 19th-century trades andlifestyles. Visit the Fells Point MaritimeMuseum to learn about privateer clip-per ships that operated during thewar, and then see the Inner Harbor-based Pride of Baltimore II, a re-cre-ation of an 1812-era BaltimoreClipper.

Just outside the city, during the earlyhours of September 12, 1814, theoverland Battle for Baltimore beganwith the landing of 4,500 Britishtroops at what is now North PointState Park. After defeating theAmericans at North Point, the Britishmarched to Baltimore but failed tooutflank city defenses at HampsteadHill and withdrew back to North Pointto re-board their ships and depart un-victorious down the Chesapeake Bay.

The Star-Spangled Banner bywayends here, but in the town ofFrederick you can discover moreabout Francis Scott Key and visit thecemetery where he is buried. TheHistoric National Road byway (page 7)extends to Frederick from Baltimore.

Old Line Lore: British MajorGeneral Robert Ross, impressed by theheroics of Commodore Joshua Barney’stroops while other American forces hastilyretreated during the Battle ofBladensburg, not only set the injuredcommodore free but also pardoned all ofBarney’s “Bluecoats.” During the Battleof North Point about three weeks later,Ross was mortally wounded by a sharp-shooter – one of Commodore Barney’spardoned soldiers.

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Maryland Historical SocietyMuseum201 W. Monument StBaltimore, 21201-4674410-685-3750www.mdhs.org

Merkle Wildlife Sanctuary11704 Fenno RoadUpper Marlboro, 20772301-888-1410www.dnr.state.md.us/publiclands/southern/merkle.html

Mount Calvert Historical &Archaeological Park16302 Mount Calvert Rd, UpperMarlboro, 20772301-627-1286

North Point State Parkc/o Gunpowder Falls State Park2813 Jerusalem RoadP.O. Box 480Kingsville, 21087410-592-2897www.dnr.state.md.us/publiclands/cen-tral/northpoint.html

Patuxent River Park16000 Croom Airport RoadUpper Marlboro, 20772301-627-6074www.pgparks.com/places/parks/patuxent.html

Pride of Baltimore IIInner Harbor (when in port)Baltimore, 21202410-539-1151www.marylands pride.org

Riversdale4811 Riverdale RdRiverdale 20737301-864-0420www.pgparks.com

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the Ford’s Theatre in Washington,D.C., and was familiar with the layoutof the building, having performedthere less than a month earlier.Sneaking into the president’s box, theassassin shot Lincoln and then leaptdramatically onto the Ford’s Theatrestage, breaking his leg but managingto make good his escape. While thepresident was moved across the streetto Petersen’s Boarding House (theplace where Lincoln would die),Booth fled on horseback over theNavy Yard Bridge to rendezvous withaccomplice David Herold.

Booth and Herold followed OldBranch Avenue and Brandywine Roadand came to a tavern that Mary E.Surratt operated as a Confederatesafehouse. Today, the Clinton-basedSurratt House Museum tells the tale

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Robert E. Lee’s Army of NorthernVirginia had recently surrendered toUnion forces, and the mending ofAmerica was just getting under way.But, shortly after 10 p.m. on thenight of April 14, 1865, thoughts ofreconciliation suffered a serious set-back. John Wilkes Booth, a 26-year-old actor and staunch Confederatesympathizer, entered Ford’s Theatre inWashington, D.C., and shot PresidentAbraham Lincoln in the back of thehead. As the president lay dying,Booth fled into Southern Marylandand eluded Federal troops for nearlytwo weeks before being cornered ina Virginia barn.

This byway follows a route that is oneof four Maryland Civil War Trails(another, the Antietam Campaign,appears as a byway on page 39).

Each trail brings you face to face withboth familiar and lesser-known CivilWar stories, while also placing youamong panoramic scenery and pre-senting convenient recreationalopportunities. For a free map guideto Maryland Civil War Trails, call 1-888-248-4597 or go online atwww.visitmaryland.org.

Washington, D.C. to Waldorf –Pennsylvania Ave (MD 4),Branch Ave (MD 5), Old BranchAvenue, Brandywine Road, andMattawoman-Beantown Road(MD 5)With the Civil War nearing its end,John Wilkes Booth and a band ofconspirators plotted to kill PresidentAbraham Lincoln. Booth knew of thepresident’s plans to attend a perform-ance of “Our American Cousin” at

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66 miles fromWashington, D.C.,

to Popes Creek

Branching off to the west of US 301on MD 6, you can visit one of theoldest communities on the EastCoast, Port Tobacco. Formerly anIndian settlement, it became a majorseaport in the 17th century and wasthe Charles County seat during theCivil War. Visit a museum inside thePort Tobacco Courthouse to seearchaeological finds and gather moreCivil War knowledge, including infor-mation about George Adzerodt, anassassination conspirator who lived intown.

Port Tobacco to Popes Creek –US 301, Popes Creek Rd, EdgeHill Rod, US 301In the dark of night on April 20,Booth and Herold arrived at thePotomac River near Popes Creek Roadand mistakenly rowed into NanjemoyCreek, where they stayed until

crossing into Virginia the next night.The creek has plenty of natural charmas a nesting site for bald eagles and afishing hole for boaters who use theFriendship Landing ramp. You canfind out all about recreational andsight-seeing opportunities in this areafrom the Crain Memorial WelcomeCenter on US 301 north.

Cross the Potomac River on US 301into Virginia, heading toward Port

Royal where Booth and Herold passedon their escape south. On the morn-ing of April 26, Federal troops foundBooth and Herold in a barn onRichard Garrett’s farm. Herold surren-dered, was taken to Washington,D.C. to stand trial, and was hanged.Refusing to turn himself in, Boothwas shot while still hiding in thebarn. He died on the porch of thenearby farmhouse.

OLD LINE LORE: John Wilkes Boothwas born on a farm near Bel Air, MD, theninth of 10 Booth children. One of hisolder brothers, famed Shakespearean actorEdwin Booth, reportedly saved PresidentAbraham Lincoln’s son, Robert, from falling into the path of a train in New Jersey several months prior to the president’s assassination.

of the widow’s Rebel ties, her role inthe assassination plan, and how shebecame the first woman to be exe-cuted by the U.S. government.

Waldorf to Port Tobacco –Poplar Hill Rd, Dr. Mudd Rd,Bryantown Rd, Olivers ShopRd, MD 6, Bel Alton NewtonRd, US 301With fresh supplies, Booth and Heroldquickly made their way farther southalong Poplar Hill Road, arriving on themorning of April 15 at Dr. Samuel A.Mudd’s Waldorf home, now a popu-lar museum stop. The country physi-cian, apparently unaware of hispatient’s role in Lincoln’s assassina-tion, treated Booth’s broken leg – anact that would land Mudd in prison.The nearby village of Bryantown iswhere Mudd claimed to have firstheard of Lincoln’s assassination, and

just to the south down Olivers ShopRoad is St. Mary’s Church andCemetery, one of many historic placesof worship in Southern Maryland. It isMudd’s final resting place.

Moving carefully, Booth and Heroldheaded around the 21-mile-long,half-mile-wide Zekiah Swamp. Thisprotected state wetland area, popularamong canoeists and virtually sur-rounded by bicycle loops, containshabitats ranging from hardwoodswamp to grass-and-sedge savan-nahs, providing natural shelter formany rare species of wildlife andmigratory birds. The two men madetheir way to the home of SamuelCox, near the present-day town ofBel Alton, and spent several days hid-ing in a nearby pine thicket.

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Dr. Samuel A. Mudd Home andMuseum3725 Dr. Samuel Budd RdWaldorf, 20601301-645-6870

Ford’s Theatre National Historic SiteNational MallWashington, D.C. www.nps.gov/foth/index.htm

Friendship Landing, NanjemoyCreekFriendship Landing Road Just off MD 425 Nanjemoy, MD 20662

Petersen’s Boarding HouseNational Mall Washington, D.C.www.nps.gov/archive/foth/hwld.htm

Port Tobacco CourthouseOff MD 6 on Chapel Point Rd. Port Tobacco, 20677301-934-4313

St. Mary’s Church and Cemetery11555 St. Mary’s Church Rd Charlotte Hall, 20622301-934-8825;

Surratt House Museum9188 Brandywine RdClinton, 20735301-868-1121www.surratt.org

Zekiah Swamp NaturalEnvironmental AreaCedarville State Forest MD 4Brandywine, 20613301-888-1622.

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Annapolis to Fairhaven – RoweBlvd, West St, MD 2, MD 253, MD 214, MD 468, MD 256,Franklin Gibson Rd, Leitch Rd,Town Point Rd & MD 423Resting beside the Chesapeake Bayjust south of Baltimore and east ofWashington, D.C., Annapolis appearsmuch as it did back in the post-Revolutionary War years, when itbecame the first peacetime capital ofour new nation. Four signers of theDeclaration of Independence madetheir home here, and today youwon’t find another U.S. city withmore surviving 18th-century buildingsstill in commercial and residential use– just a couple of reasons whyAnnapolis has been listed among“America’s Dozen DistinctiveDestinations” by the National Trustfor Historic Preservation. Stroll red

brick streets once traveled bycolonists, look up at the rare woodendome of the Maryland State House,window-shop for everything frommaritime antiques to designer cloth-ing, or just relax in a pub and watchthe world go by. At the center of theaction is the U.S. Naval Academycampus, which, like the downtownAnnapolis area, is a National HistoricLandmark. Guided walking tours ofthe Academy grounds give you ataste of life as a midshipman and leadyou to the crypt of patriot John PaulJones.

Maryland’s state capital is also“America’s Sailing Capital,” so onceyou’ve finished exploring Annapolisby land, take to the sea for fishing orsightseeing trip. From there, headtoward Edgewater on MD 253 and

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When you feel a gentle bay breezebrush your cheek, when you hearwater pushing softly against a wood-en pier, when you taste the unmistak-able flavor of Maryland seafood, youknow you’ve arrived in waterman’scountry. This Western Shore byway,which begins in our state capital ofAnnapolis and incorporates the FourRivers Heritage Area, is a feast for thesenses as you visit friendlyChesapeake Bay communities, andshare in their warmth, absorb theirculture and explore their deep mar-itime roots.

Step through one of the severalNational Park Service’s designatedChesapeake Bay Gateways in the areaand be introduced to the beauty of atrue natural treasure. Come sailing,paddling, bird watching, museum

hopping, or just relax on a sandybeach and watch the sun set onanother golden Chesapeake Bay day.

During his explorations of the bayregion four centuries ago, Capt. JohnSmith noted, “Heaven and earthnever agreed better to frame a placefor man’s habitation.” These wordshave taken on added significancewith the designation of the all-waterCaptain John Smith ChesapeakeNational Historic Trail, which com-memorates the voyages of CaptainJohn Smith and his crew on theChesapeake Bay and its tributariesduring 1607-1609. Many baysideattractions, including several fromAnnapolis to Southern Maryland provide additional information aboutSmith.

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47 miles fromAnnapolis to Plum

Point

front inn, you can backtrack brieflyon MD 423 to the HerringtonHarbour North Historic Village, a col-lection of outbuildings that includes aone-room schoolhouse, African-American meeting house and resi-dence. Following the bay shorelinesouth on MD 261, you soon come tothe sister towns of North Beach andChesapeake Beach. Enjoy charmingrestaurants, marinas, antiques shopsand bed and breakfasts, and thenstep back to the early 1900s at theChesapeake Beach Railway Museumthat also serves as a Chesapeake BayGateway. The museum, housed in an1898 railway station, also has exhibitson the Victorian resort and amuse-ment park that once drew boatloadsand trainloads of visitors toChesapeake Beach from Baltimore

and Washington, D.C. Nowadays, youcan treat yourself to pampering at alocal spa or enjoy summer fun at awater park with eight slides, a lazyriver and other attractions.

When you reach the town ofWillows, sidetrack east along BreezyPoint Road toward a sandy, half-mile-long public beach that is available forpicnicking, swimming, fishing andcrabbing. Just to the south on MD263 east, and still hugging the bayshoreline, is the town of Plum Point,but then you’ll want to turn inlandon MD 263 west and proceed towardPrince Frederick to hook up with theStar-Spangled Banner Trail (page105).

follow the South River into HistoricLondon Town. Visit the early-18th-century William Brown House, takepart in an “Archaeology Dig Day,”and walk among gardens throughoutthe reconstructed “lost town” ofLondon.

Check for powerboat and sailboatrentals while you’re in Edgewater, ordrive a little farther south on MD 214east, then MD 468 south and chartera 50-foot ketch in the historic villageof Galesville, where you can also visita museum operated by the GalesvilleHeritage Society. Both London Townand the Galesville Heritage Museumare Chesapeake Bay Gateways, as isthe Shady Side-based Captain SalemAvery House. A restored waterman’scottage located on a peninsula east

of the West River, the Avery Housereturns you to bay life as it was in the 1860s.

To get an up close look at the Bay,stop at the SmithsonianEnvironmental Research Center,which encompasses 2,800 acres ofland along the Rhode River, asubestuary of the Chesapeake Bay,and includes forest, cropland, pas-ture, freshwater wetlands, tidalmarshes, and estuaries. Then proceedsouth on MD 256 and east on MD261 around Herring Bay, stopping inFairhaven to enjoy the serenity ofanother bayside village.

Fairhaven to Plum Point – MD 423, MD 261 & MD 263After relaxing at a Rosehaven beach-

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Herrington Harbour North Historic Village389 Deale Road, Tracy's Landing/Deale, 20751410-867-4343

Historic London Town andGardens839 Londontown Rd, Edgewater, 21037-2197410-222-1919www.historiclondontown.com

Maryland State House91 State Cir, Annapolis, 21401410-974-3400www.mdarchives.state.md.us/msa/homepage/html

Smithsonian EnvironmentalResearch Center647 Contees Wharf RoadEdgewater, 21037-0028443-482-2200www.serc.si.edu

U.S. Naval AcademyArmel-Leftwich Visitor Center, 52King George St, Gate 1, Annapolis, 21402410-263-6933www.navyonline.com

OLD LINE LORE: The WesternShore town of London, established as atobacco port in 1683, virtually disap-peared in the late 18th century followingan economic depression brought about bythe Revolutionary War. The archaeologi-cal remains of the “lost town” are nowbeing unearthed at Historic LondonTown and Gardens.

Breezy Point Beach andCampground5230 Breezy Point Rd Chesapeake Beach 20732

Captain John Smith ChesapeakeNational Historic TrailNational Park ServiceChesapeake Bay Program Office410 Severn Avenue, Suite 109Annapolis, 214031-866-BAY-WAYS (866-229-9297)www.nps.gov/cajo

Captain Salem Avery House1418 E W Shady Side RdShady Side, 20764410-867-4486, 410-867-2901www.averyhouse.org

Chesapeake Beach RailwayMuseum4155 Mears Ave, Chesapeake Beach, 20732410-257-3892www.cbrm.org

Chesapeake Beach Water Park4079 Gordon Stinnett Ave,Chesapeake Beach 20732410-257-1404, 301-855-8398

Galesville Heritage Museum988 Main St Galesville, 20765410-867-0373www.galesvilleheritagesociety.org

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William Brown House The London Town Foundation839 Londontown RoadEdgewater, 21037410-222-1919

William Paca House and Garden 186 Prince George St, Annapolis, 21401410-267-7619, 1-800-603-4020www.annapolis.org

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Southwest along MD 6, below aninviting place named Welcome, sitsthe Christ Church-Durham Parish.Dating to 1692, it is one of the origi-nal 30 parishes of the Church ofEngland chartered in the Province ofMaryland. The brick structure you seetoday was constructed in the 1730s.

Keep Mattawoman Creek to your leftas you drive up MD 224 and arrive atSmallwood State Park. The estate ofGeneral William Smallwood, aRevolutionary War hero and fourthgovernor of Maryland, is the center-piece of the park, which also has amarina that is the launching point fornational bass-fishing competitions.From there, sidetrack into Purse StatePark, a popular fossil-hunting locationset on the Potomac River at Wades Bay.

The Religious Freedom Tour

incorporates many of the nation’s oldest

churches.

America’s roots of “toleration” runthroughout Southern Maryland,where the original English settlers –Protestant and Catholic alike – recog-nized the rights of individuals to holddissenting religious opinions. Now,such freedoms are celebrated at long-established places of worship all overthe region.

This byway, with several branchesthat reach toward the Potomac River,incorporates many of the nation’s old-est churches, the site of the firstRoman Catholic Mass held in English-speaking America, and Maryland’scolonial capital, Historic St. Mary’sCity. For some travelers, it’s a spiritualpilgrimage; others simply admire thehistory. Either way, it’s an inspirationaljourney through beautiful country-side, allowing you to commune with

nature while traveling into the heartof the Southern Maryland HeritageArea.

Upper Loop from Port Tobacco –Rose Hill Rd, MD 225, MD 224, MD 425 & MD 6Port Tobacco was built on one of theearliest settlement sites in Maryland.When the first Europeans arrived,they found a Potopco Indian villagehere. Soon after, a missionary outpostwas established by Jesuit FatherAndrew White, one of the colony’soriginal settlers. As you travel throughtown, drop by a one-room school-house that was built in 1872, andthen tour the Port TobaccoCourthouse, now a museum contain-ing tobacco exhibits and archaeologi-cal finds.

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189 miles fromPort Tobacco toPoint Lookout

lived in the 18th-century, Georgianmansion that dominates this 322-acreplantation.

Chapel Point to St. ClementsIsland – Chapel Point Rd, Pope’sCreek Rd, US 301, MD 234, MD 238, MD 242A spectacular view of the Potomacand Port Tobacco rivers awaits as youhead toward Chapel Point, stoppingat St. Ignatius Catholic Church andSt. Thomas Manor. The church,founded by Jesuits in 1641, hasremained active longer than anyother parish in the country, and themanor house, constructed a centurylater, is the oldest Jesuit residence incontinuous use in the world.

Just beyond the village of PopesCreek, which provides a link to theBooth’s Escape byway (page 115),

you soon arrive at a branch that fol-lows MD 257 and MD 254 to CobbIsland, well-known among fishermenand seafood aficionados. On the wayto the island is Christ ProtestantEpiscopal Church, which was built in1750 and counted a young ThomasClagett among its parishioners. In1792, Clagett became the firstEpiscopal bishop consecrated in theUnited States.

Back on the main route, you headeast through the Zekiah SwampNatural Environment Area towardBudds Creek, and then follow MD234 into Chaptico, a port town thatwas occupied by the British duringboth the American Revolution andWar of 1812. Christ EpiscopalChurch, King and Queen Parish, wasbuilt here in 1736, on land donatedby Francis Scott Key’s grandfather.

As you loop back toward PortTobacco, northwest of town alongMD 225 is the Myrtle Grove WildlifeManagement Area, which offershunting, fishing and hiking around a23-acre lake. Another option is toveer off of MD 225 into Mt. Carmel,site of the first nunnery in thecolonies. Buildings have been restoredusing the original foundations of theconvent, which was founded in 1790by four Carmelite nuns together withFather Charles Neal of nearbyChandler’s Hope. All five of Neal’sbrothers also became Catholic priests,with one, Leonard Neal, ascending tothe position of Archbishop.

Your last stop on the first portion ofthis byway is the Thomas StoneNational Historic Site. Stone, one offour signers of the Declaration ofIndependence to hail from Maryland,

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this byway comes up in Callaway,where MD 249 leads to St. George’sEpiscopal Church in Valley Lee. Theoldest Episcopal parish in Maryland,St. George’s has held services since1638. Before returning to the mainroute, follow MD 249 down to PineyPoint, site of the oldest lighthouse onthe Potomac River. Built in 1836, thesentinel has been called the“Lighthouse of Presidents” becauseits surroundings were a popular sum-mer destination for U.S. heads ofstate such as James Madison andTheodore Roosevelt. Beyond thelighthouse, the U-1105 Black PantherHistoric Shipwreck Preserve is anexcellent place to go boating.

Probably the most visited destinationon this byway is Historic St. Mary’sCity. Maryland’s capital from 1634 to1695, it was the fourth permanent

English settlement in America, andsite of the first Catholic chapel in thecolonies. At the museum, archaeolo-gists, historians and living historyinterpreters continue to work towardre-discovering and demonstrating lifein St. Mary’s City as it was in the1600s, with a tobacco plantation,Town Center, Indian hamlet and repli-ca of the Maryland Dove, one of thetwo square-rigged ships that broughtthose first settlers here. Nearby isTrinity Episcopal Church, which wasbuilt with bricks salvaged from theoriginal State House, and at theentrance to Historic St. Mary’s City isthe Freedom of ConscienceMonument. Erected in 1934, themonument commemorates a 1649Act passed by the General Assemblythat mandated religious toleration ofall Trinitarians, laying the foundation

Branching off from Chaptico, followMD 238 south to MD 242, whichleads to Coltons Point. Here, thenationally accredited St. Clement’sIsland Museum features exhibits onMaryland’s earliest history. Inquireabout water taxi service to St.Clement’s Island, the “Birthplace ofMaryland,” where Father White cele-brated the first Catholic Mass in theBritish-American colonies. Today, theisland is a 40-acre state park onwhich a 40-foot-tall cross honorsthose first colonists who, in 1634,conceptualized separation of churchand state. The principles of religiousliberty that they championed were aprecursor to democratic ideals thatinspired the framers of Maryland’s Billof Rights and later contributed to theUnited States’ Bill of Rights.

Chaptico to Point Lookout –MD 234, MD 243, MD 5 & MD 249Back on MD 234 and heading eastonce again, look for a sidetrack thattakes you down MD 243 to St.Francis Xavier Church, the oldestRoman Catholic church in the state.Father James Ashby is believed tohave built the present, wood-shingledstructure just before his death in1767.

MD 234 becomes MD 5 as you pro-ceed farther east, entering the heartof Leonardtown. Attractions of noteinclude the Old Jail Museum, a touristinformation center that also containsearly Maryland artifacts, and TudorHall, a 250-year-old Colonial housethat the St. Mary’s County HistoricalSociety operates as a genealogicalresearch center. The next branch of

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Historic St. Mary’s CityP.O. Box 39St. Mary's City, 20686800-762-1634 ~ 240-895-4990 ~240-895-4960www.stmaryscity.org

Myrtle Grove WildlifeManagement AreaMyrtle Grove RoadLa Plata, 20646www.dnr.state.md.us/publiclands/sou-thern/myrtlegrove.html

Old Jail Museum11 Courthouse Drive Leonardtown, 20650301-475-2467 www.smchistory.org

Piney Point Lighthouse Museum & Historic ParkSt. Mary's County Government23115 Leonard Hall DrLeonardtown, 20650www.stmarysmd.com/recreate/muse-ums

Point Lookout State Park11175 Point Lookout RoadScotland, 20687301 872-5688www.dnr.state.md.us/publiclands/southern/pointlookout.html

Port Tobacco CourthouseP.O. Box 344Port Tobacco, 20677301- 934-2474 Smallwood State Park

for the First Amendment to the U.S.Constitution.

Along Mill Creek is St. Mary’s Collegeof Maryland, established in 1840 as afemale seminary and now operatingas a co-educational state college.Then you pass the late-18th-centurySt. Ignatius Church, off Beachville Rd,before making your way to PointLookout State Park. Point Lookoutonce flourished as a summer resort,and today the state park offersbeaches, a boat launch, fishing areasand campgrounds. But there’s anoth-er side to this picturesque peninsula –during the Civil War, Point Lookoutwas a notorious prison camp wheremore than 4,000 Confederate sol-diers died. A museum and monu-ments are found on site.

OLD LINE LORE: As St. ThomasManor was being built on the PortTobacco River in 1741, some observerscommented that the Jesuits were “raisinga palace unbecoming a religious order.”But it didn’t deter many Catholic mis-sionaries, including John Carroll, firstBishop of the United States, from enjoy-ing the manor’s ambience while meetinghere on business.

Christ Church-Durham Parish8685 Ironsides Road, Nanjemoy 20662301-743-7099

Christ Episcopal Church, King andQueen ParishMaddox Rd, Rt 238 Chaptico 20621301-884-3451www.christepiscopalchaptico.org

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St. Clement’s Island Museum38370 Point Breeze RoadColton’s Point, 20626301-769-2222www.stmarysmd.com/recreate/muse-ums

St. Clement’s Island State Parkc/o Point Lookout State Park11175 Point Lookout RoadScotland, 20687301-872-5688www.dnr.state.md.us/publiclands/southern/stclements.html

St. Ignatius Church/St. ThomasManor8855 Chapel Point Rd Port Tobacco, 20677301-934-8245www.chapelpoint.org

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It is said that in “ChesapeakeCountry,” life moves gently with theebb and flow of the tides. Your jour-ney takes you past fertile farmlandgraced by handsome – often historic– manor houses. You enter smalltowns rich with art, culture and purecountry charm, and then slip throughsecluded spots surrounded byunspoiled nature. And never are youfar from water – either theChesapeake Bay or one of its tidewa-ter tributaries.

Divided into Upper Eastern Shore andmid-shore sections, this ambitiousbyway winds through the bulk of twoMaryland Heritage Areas – first, theStories of the Chesapeake, whichtakes you through the natural beautyof this special land; then, the Heart ofChesapeake Country, with its pristine

waterways, historic waterfront vil-lages and wide natural expanses. Theupper Eastern Shore section has alsobeen designated as a National ScenicByway.

This tidewater region has shaped thelifestyles and livelihoods of genera-tions of watermen, shipbuilders, andtobacco farmers. Travel through thisregion will take you through water-related communities where the peo-ple are up with the season to reapthe harvest from the bay, and townsthat have been welcoming travelersfor centuries.

Upper Eastern Shore sectionfrom Chesapeake City – MD 213 & MD 18Begin your trip in Chesapeake City, atthe western end of the Chesapeake

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419 miles fromChesapeake City to

Elliott Island

and Delaware Canal. Among thetown’s many restored, 19th-centurycommercial and residential buildingsis a museum that tells of the C&DCanal’s significance as a trade routelinking Baltimore and Philadelphia.

Heading down MD 213, look for asign marking the site of BohemiaManor, which was originally ownedby Augustine Herman, a surveyor saidto be the first man to map Maryland.The next town on your journey,Cecilton, is located at the largestcrossroads south of the canal, justeast of three bayside sidetracks ontoMD 282 and beyond. First, there isCrystal Beach, popular for swimmingand fishing. Then comes theStemmer’s Run Wildlife ManagementArea, where you can participate inupland game viewing and seasonalhunting. Finally, a sidetrack to Grove

Point takes you past the MountHarmon Plantation, featuring an18th-century manor home set amid aboxwood garden, tobacco prizehouse and nature preserve.

Back on MD 213 south, cross to thesouthern bank of the Sassafras Riverand enter Georgetown, which wasraided and burned by British troopsduring the War of 1812. Only twohouses and a church were spared.MD 213 takes a hard right turn inGalena and runs toward Kennedyville.Just north on Turners Creek Landing,the Kent Museum features displays ofantique agricultural machinery andother items from rural life. Naturetrails surround the museum.

Another sidetrack, this one from MD298 to MD 292, brings you toBetterton, a Victorian resort during

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the golden age of the ChesapeakeBay steamboat. The road leading toBetterton’s beach and pier descends asteep hill past fine Victorian-erahomes.

On MD 213 once again, you passthrough rolling farmland en route toChestertown, a Colonial port on theChester River. Wealthy merchants andplanters built the elegant brick town-houses that dominate Chestertown’shistoric district. Among these is theGeddes-Piper House, now the period-furnished headquarters of the KentCounty Historical Society. Otherattractions include a 3,000-acrewildlife and agricultural research areaknown as Chesapeake Farms; aschooner named Sultana that sails asthe “Schoolship of the Chesapeake”.

Here, the byway branches off toward

Rock Hall by way of MD 20. Arguablythe pleasure-boating center of theUpper Shore, Rock Hall has morethan a dozen marinas offering safemooring and charter services. In addi-tion, you’ll find exceptional seafooddining, visual and performing arts,the old-fashioned Durding’s drugstore (complete with soda fountain),and a nearby museum dedicated todecades past when the TolchesterBeach amusement park operated justup the road. To learn about the area’sNative American, Colonial and mar-itime heritage, stop by the Rock HallMuseum. Next, follow MD 445 southto the Eastern Neck National WildlifeRefuge, an island ecosystem withextensive hiking trails.

Returning to Chestertown and takinga southward course along MD 213,you soon arrive in Church Hill. St.

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rollerblading route called the CrossIsland Trail.

In Stevensville, hints of the communi-ty’s past are offered at the CrayHouse and Train Depot. The house,built circa 1809, is a rare example ofpost-and-plank construction, and theadjacent train station, constructed acentury later, harkens to a time whenStevensville grew with an influx ofsteamboat and railroad traffic fromthe western shore of the bay.

Your next move could be to travelfour miles across the Chesapeake BayBridge to Maryland’s capital ofAnnapolis, where you can hook intothe Roots & Tides byway (page 121).Otherwise, return to the EasternShore mainland via US 50 and startthe Mid-shore part of your journey.

Mid-Shore Section fromCentreville – US 50, MD 662,331, 318, 313To begin the second leg of thisbyway, either start from Centrevilleand follow MD 213 south, or take US50 past a sidetrack to the Wye MillsNatural Resource Management Area.In the actual town of Wye Mills, lookfor a gristmill that ground flour forGeorge Washington’s troops duringthe Revolutionary War. Visit wherethe largest white oak in the nation,fell in 2002 during a vicious storm,and a true genetic clone of the treewas planted here in 2006.

Follow MD 662 until it ends, at whichtime you can pick up US 50 and enterEaston. Its reputation as one of thebest small towns in America is partlyattributable to its variety of arts andentertainment options, from the art-

Luke’s Episcopal Church, which restson a hill overlooking the center oftown, has been restored to its early-18th-century glory. Nearby is theChurch Hill Theatre, presenting clas-sic, contemporary and children’s playsin a converted 1930s movie house.

In Centreville, visit the Museum ofEastern Shore Life to see artifactsfrom the surrounding region, andthen take a closer look at some ofthe town’s 18th- and 19th-centuryhomes and buildings. On the squareat the town’s center is a 1792 struc-ture that is Maryland’s oldest court-house. Look also for the Federal-peri-od Tucker House and a finely fur-nished, circa-1744 plantation homenamed Wright’s Chance.

Go west on MD 18 and follow it toQueenstown. Several existing struc-

tures are evidence of the area’s richColonial heritage. Plus, you can shopat local outlet stores before enteringGrasonville, home of an environmen-tal center operated by the WildfowlTrust of North America. Beyond theTrust’s visitors center are recreationalopportunities ranging from hikingand canoeing to spying on captiveand migrating waterfowl and raptors.

The Kent Narrows channel separatesMaryland’s Eastern Shore mainlandfrom Kent Island. Waterside restau-rants in this area feature contempo-rary entertainment while servingseafood fresh from the dock to yourtable. Information regarding islandhistory, such as the establishment of atrading post here in 1631, is availableat the Chesapeake ExplorationCenter, which is also one end of thesix-mile-long hiking, biking and

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on the Dover Bridge. During Civil Wartimes, people, horses and cows werecharged a five-cent toll to use thebridge. Beyond the river in Preston,you link up with the UndergroundRailroad byway (page 153), but thenveer off toward Hurlock. This is wherean authentic paddlewheel boat waitsto take you river cruising.

Pass through East New Market onMD 16, first settled in 1660 as anNative-American trading post andlater serving as the center ofAmerican Methodism. As you hug theChoptank River shoreline, movethrough a small fishing village calledSecretary, and then cross paths oncemore with the Underground Railroadbyway as you branch off towardCambridge. Bike routes around hereincorporate both small-town scenesand wide-open country, while local

history not only includes brushes withUnderground Railroad conductorHarriet Tubman, but also Wild Westsharpshooter Annie Oakley and sever-al former Maryland governors. Wateradventures are available via skipjacksailing cruises and custom boat tours,or glimpse the life of an EasternShore waterman at the RichardsonMaritime Museum and Boatworks inCambridge.

Continue on MD 343 toward Hudsonand sight your binoculars on theSharps Island Lighthouse offshore.Now it’s time to doubleback toCambridge, venture south on MD341, and face your next decisionabout which way to turn. One optionis to head south on MD 341 into theheart of the Blackwater NationalWildlife Refuge, which beckons bikersto view a vast salt-marsh ecosystem,

deco Avalon Theatre to the AcademyArt Museum. Easton’s history comesalive at a 325-year-old Quaker meet-ing house, and on streets lined withelegant Victorian homes and anenticing array of long-established spe-cialty shops. You’ll also find champi-onship golfing nearby, as well asnature trails and a canoe launch atthe 400-acre Pickering CreekAudubon Center.

Branch off on MD 33 to visit St.Michaels, an important shipbuildingcenter since the earliest Colonial days.Explore the Chesapeake Bay MaritimeMuseum, which features a workingboatyard, various hands-on activitiesand a restored 1879 lighthouse. Fromhere, it’s a short drive to TilghmanIsland, home of skipjack cruises, greatrestaurants and one of the largestone-marina charter fleets in

Maryland. The place is even admiredby monarch butterflies, thousands ofwhich stop here every August as theywing their way toward Mexico.

Return to the main route by way ofMD 329 toward Bellevue, crossingthe Tred Avon River on board what isbelieved to be America’s oldest pri-vately owned ferry, which dates backto the 17th century. On the oppositeshore of the river is Oxford, whereyou’ll find a sizable fishing and oysterfleet along with many fine marinas.Exhibits on the area’s heritage andmaritime history are found inside theOxford Museum, while just down theroad is a replica of the first OxfordCustoms House.

After making your way back toEaston on MD 333, head east alongMD 331, crossing the Choptank River

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Blackwater National WildlifeRefuge2145 Key Wallace DrCambridge, 21613410-228-0401www.friendsofblackwater.com

Chesapeake & Delaware CanalMuseum (1837)815 Bethel RdChesapeake City, 21915410-885-5622

Chesapeake Bay MaritimeMuseumNavy PointSt. Michaels, 21663410-745-2916www.cbmm.org

Chesapeake Farms7319 Remington Dr.Chestertown, 21620410-778-8400

Cray House and Train DepotCockey's LnStevensville, 21666410-604-2100www.historicqac.org

Eastern Neck National WildlifeRefuge1730 Eastern Neck RdRock Hall, 216661410-639-7056www.kentcounty/gov/parkrec/parks

Geddes-Piper House101 Church AlleyChestertown, 21620410-778-3499www.hskmd.com

Kent MuseumTurners Creek LandingKennedyville, 13685410-348-9149www.kentcounty/farmmuseum

Mount Harmon PlantationGrove Neck Rd to Mt Harmon RdEarleville,21919410-275-8819www.mountharmon.org

Museum of Eastern Shore Life120 Dulin Clark Rd.Centerville, 21617410-758-8640, 410-758-0979

and canoeists and kayakers to enjoyrelaxing tidewater excursions.Blackwater also boasts the largestnesting population of bald eagles onthe East Coast.

A more westerly route on MD 335takes you on this byway’s HooperIsland Branch, skirting the Blackwaterrefuge en route to a chain of three,narrow islands named for one of thefirst families to settle in the area.Come prepared to fish, boat and scanthe bay for the 63-foot-tall HooperIsland Lighthouse. To the east is theElliott Island Branch, which includes astop at the Fishing Bay WildlifeManagement Area. Fishing Bay’s lushtidal wetlands have earned it thenickname “Maryland’s Everglades.”

Finally, you’re ready to drive along theNanticoke River up to Eldorado, from

which you can either continue northtoward Federalsburg and the IdylwildWildlife Management Area, or turnsoutheast to investigate the LowerEastern Shore on the Blue Crabbyway (page 161). The two bywaysjoin in the vicinity of Sharptown,which features a boat launch for easyexploration of the scenic Nanticokeand its tributaries.

OLD LINE LORE: Celebrated authorJames Michener wrote an outline for hisnovel Chesapeake in an Oxford-basedtavern that won his heart with its succu-lent crab cakes. The original manuscriptfor Michener’s work is kept at a libraryin Easton.

Avalon Theatre40 E Dover StEaston, 21601410-822-0345www.avalontheatre.com

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Oxford Museum101 S Morris StOxford, 21654410-226-0191www.oxfordmuseum.org

Oxford-Bellevue FerryEnd of MD Rt 333Oxford, 21654410-745-9023www.oxfordferry.com

Pickering Creek Audubon Center11450 Audubon LnEaston, 21601410-822-4903www.pickeringcreek.org

Richardson Maritime Museum and Boatworks401 High StCambridge, 21613410-221-1871www.richardsonmuseum.org

Rock Hall Museum5585 Main StRock Hall, 21661410-639-2296www.rockhallmd.com/museum

Schooner Sultana 1768 and theSultana CenterCross StChestertown, 21620410-778-5954www.schoonersultana.com

Wildfowl Trust of North AmericaChesapeake Bay EnvironmentalCenter600 Discovery LnGrasonville, 21638410-827-6694www.cbec-wtna.org

Wye Grist Mill and MuseumRt 662 14296 Old Wye Mills RoadWye Mills, 21657410-827-6909www.ce.jhu.ed/mdcive/wyemill.htm

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Chesapeake Country Heritage Areaand a Chesapeake Bay Gateway,which provides information about,and ready access to, both theChoptank Riverfront and the historyof Cambridge.

Travel across the Cambridge Creek toa courthouse building, constructed in1854, that was the scene of slaveauctions, escapes, trials and convic-tions, which are told on a large inter-pretive sign. Along a scenic walk

within the Cambridge NationalHistoric District is the Harriet TubmanMuseum and Educational Center.Nicknamed “The Moses of herPeople” for her courageous work as a“conductor” on the Underground

Railroad, it has beendocumented thatTubman helped morethan 70 enslaved peo-ple reach freedom. Follow MD 341 southto MD 16 west, whereyou will find theStanley Institute, aone-room, African-American schoolestablished by theFreedmen’s Bureaushortly after the CivilWar. Continue outto Stewart’s Canal,

Along a secret network of trails,waterways and sanctuaries known asthe Underground Railroad, enslavedpeople fled north out of Southernstates to escape bondage. For them,the Civil War couldn’t end quicklyenough, and the thirst for freedom faroutweighed the dangers involved withtrudging across strange lands, trustingno one and yet often counting on theselfless kindness of strangers.Maryland is a state rich with African-American heritage but was often tornduring the 19th century by dividedopinions concerning the institution ofslavery. Here you can learn moreabout these freedom seekers.

This Eastern Shore byway follows amostly northern path across a land-scape that has changed little in thelast century and a half. It allows you

to better understand the stories ofthe Underground Railroad, many ofthem as told by local anti-slaveryactivists who risked their own lives toaid their fellow Americans.

Cambridge to East New Market– Maryland Avenue, RaceStreet (MD 341), MD 16, MD 335, Key Wallace Drive,Greenbrier Road, BucktownRoad, MD 16, US 50, MD 16The starting point for yourUnderground Railroad journey is theVisitors Center at Sailwinds Park,found just off the east end of theU.S. 50 Bridge in Cambridge andremember to pick up a copy of theFinding a Way to Freedom brochure.Easily distinguishable by the large sailcanopy stretched over the building,the visitor center is in the Heart of

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144 miles fromCambridge toGreensboro

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as a place where “pilgrims” congregate.

Branching south ofBucktown, drive to historic, single-laneBestpitch Ferry Bridgeand look out at a landscape that is mostlyunchanged since themid-19th century. A little farther along isthe Fishing Bay WildlifeManagement Area,with its many watertrails and unspoiledscenery.

Now head north,having completedthe Cambridgeloop, before following US 50

which was dug by slaves to movetimber to market. Next, enter ChurchCreek, which served as a major pre-Civil War shipbuilding center, employ-ing both black and white workers.An interpretive marker is on the site.

A Taylors Island Branch of this bywayruns west on MD 16 toward theChesapeake Bay, passing the late-17th-century Old Trinity Church andthe town of Madison, where Tubmanlabored for several years. Along theway, you will pass Stewart’s canal thatwas laboriously dug by enslaved peo-ple to move timber to market.Returning east on 16, then south onMD 335, you link into theChesapeake Country byway (page139) while traveling beside theBlackwater National Wildlife Refuge.Among Blackwater’s many nature-viewing and outdoor recreational

opportunities is the two-mile TubmanRoad Hiking Trail, which incorporatesthe remains of a homestead estab-lished in the 1600s.

Continue to Greenbrier Road andlook for a roadside pull off where aninterpretive marker notes the approxi-mate location of Harriet Tubman’searly life on the Brodess Farm. Thenhead for the Bucktown Village Store,which is where a teenaged Tubmanwas said to have been struck by anoverseer while allowing a slave toavoid capture. As a result, she wasdisabled for months and sufferedfrom spells of “unexpected sleep” forthe rest of her life. Guided historicand nature tours are offered here,along with bike, canoe and kayakrentals. Nearby is Bazzel MethodistEpiscopal Church, which has long cel-ebrated Tubman’s memory and serves

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Courthouse Square, former site of aslave market and jail whereUnderground Railroad conductors wereheld; the Tuckahoe Neck MeetingHouse, built in 1803 and linked to theUnderground Railroad network; andthe Museum of Rural Life, whichincludes an Underground Railroadexhibit.

Frederick Douglass, the famous oratorand statesman, began his autobiogra-phy, “I was born in Tuckahoe, nearHillsborough, and about 12 miles fromEaston.” From Denton, you can followa western branch of this byway to theTuckahoe River, and see whereDouglass embarked on an amazingjourney through Annapolis, Baltimore,St. Michaels and other points along thebay, finally escaping from slavery tobecome an abolitionist leader. ThoughDouglass wrote that he never approved

of the “very public manner” in whichthe Underground Railroad was run, heapplauded the determination and“noble daring” displayed by its con-ductors.

At this point, you have the option oflinking into the Chesapeake CountryByway. Otherwise, follow MD 313 intothe historic towns of Greensboro andGoldsboro. Picking up MD 287 allowsyou to head east into Delaware, whereother Underground Railroad sites awaitin rural villages like Sandtown, WillowGrove, Star Hill and Camden.

OLD LINE LORE: UndergroundRailroad conductor Samuel Green was pas-tor of a church in East New Marketthrough the 1850s until being imprisonedin 1857 for possessing a copy of theHarriet Beecher Stowe novel, Uncle Tom’sCabin. Stowe, in fact, based the character

of Uncle Tom on Josiah Henson, aSouthern Maryland man who himselfbecame an author after escaping slavery.

Adkins Arboretum12610 Eveland RdRidgely, 21660410-634-2847www.adkinsaboretum.org

Bazzel Methodist Episcopal ChurchBestpitch Ferry Road410-228-0401Cambridge, 21613www.intercom.net/npo/tubman/bazzel.htm

Blackwater National WildlifeRefuge2145 Key Wallace Dr, 21613410-228-2677www.fws.gov/blackwater

and MD 16 into East New Market.Veer onto MD 14 to find Mt. ZionUnited Methodist Church. Locatednear an old train station, Mt. Zionwas built in 1880 on land that hadbeen deeded five decades earlier to agroup of seven African-Americantrustees. Among these was SamuelGreen, a free black farmer andUnderground Railroad conductor.

East New Market to Goldsboro– MD 16, Grove Road, MD 578,MD 16, MD 331, MD 313, MD 287Visit a historic gristmill at Linchester,east of Preston, where employed freeand enslaved African Americansworked side by side. The roots ofpeace-loving Quakers also run deepin this area, as you can see the homeof abolitionist Jacob Leverton andthen visit the site of a Quaker meet-

ing house (now Mt. PleasantCemetery) that is believed to havebeen an Underground Railroad sta-tion. A subsequent sidetrack on thisbyway’s Poplar Neck Loop, which washome to Tubman’s parents, revealsstunning scenery, culminating in aview of the Choptank River from asmall waterfront park. The story istold of a man named Josiah Baileywho rowed past this point to meetHarriet Tubman before fleeing intoCanada.

Head north on MD 16, to PottersLanding, which served as a crossingplace for slaves heading north. Yourjourney likewise continues north, tak-ing you through Martinak State Park.Experience the excellent camping,fishing and boating here beforeentering Denton, which contains sev-eral relevant sites. There’s the

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Bucktown Village Store4303 Bucktown RdCambridge, 21613410-228-7650

Fishing Bay Wildlife ManagementArea4220 Steele Neck RdVienna, 21869410-376-3236www.dnr.state.md.us/publiclands/eastern/fishingbay.html

Harriet Tubman Museum andEducational Center424 Race StCambridge, 21613410-228-0401

Martinak State Park137 Deep Shore RdDenton, 21629410-479-1619www.dnr.state.md.us/publiclands/eastern/martinak.html

Museum of Rural Life16 N 2nd StDenton, 21629410-479-2055www.carolinehistory.org

Stanley Institute2400 Church Creek RdCambridge, 21613410-228-6657

Visitors Center at Sailwinds ParkEast end of U.S. 50 Bridge,Cambridge1-800-522-8687

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200-year-old Teackle Mansion, arelisted on the National Register ofHistoric Places. Directly east of townis a branch of the byway that followsMD 363 to Deal Island. A wildlifemanagement area here contains a2,800-acre, man made pond sur-

rounded by some of a waterfowl’sfavorite vegetation, resulting in oneof the state’s finest places to viewducks and geese. Most of the resi-dents of Deal Island make their livingfrom nearby waters, and several oper-ations are set up to take visitors salt-

water angling in the summer orhunting in the winter.

From Princess Anne headingsouth, bear right on MD 413toward the waterfront commu-

nity of Crisfield. Boats bring thebounty of the lower Chesapeakehome to this self-styled “Crab Capitalof the World.” The J. Millard TawesHistorical Museum offers a look intothe industry of seafood harvestingand processing, while the WardBrothers Workshop pays tribute tothe art of wildfowl decoy carving.Nearby is Janes Island State Park,which has been recognized by theAmerican Canoe Association as oneof “12 recommended water trails

Some routes described in this guidenot only follow a particular theme,but closely trace a specific natural ormanmade feature, such as theHistoric National Road, Baltimore’sNational Historic Seaport or the C&OCanal. However, no other bywaybesides this one, when viewed on amap, can dare to claim an actualphysical resemblance to its name!

An imperfect loop links PrincessAnne, Snow Hill, Salisbury and otherLower Eastern Shore towns to formthe shell of the Blue Crab byway,while several branches extend out likestubby legs and curved claws towardthe Chesapeake Bay and AtlanticOcean. Expect plenty of appetizingexperiences as you drive through thiswater-laced land to enjoy limitlesssightseeing, small-town warmth, and

yes, dining on sumptuous, freshseafood. We recommend spicysteamed crabs, crab cakes, crab soup,crab dip or even soft-shell crabs(which are harvested immediatelyafter molting). And, as you journeythrough the Lower Eastern ShoreHeritage Area, we advise you tocome prepared with outdoor gear forall occasions, whether fishing, swim-ming, camping, canoeing, biking oreven parasailing.

Princess Anne to PocomokeCity –– Somerset Ave, US 13,MD 413 to Crisfield, MD 667,US 13, Market StNamed for the daughter of KingGeorge II, the hamlet of PrincessAnne was established in 1733. Today,about 300 of the town’s Federal-styleand Victorian structures, including the

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249 miles fromPrincess Anne to

the Atlantic Ocean

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so aggressively protecting its American heritage.Established in 1686, it features a former one-room school-

house built in 1869, as well as a museum where you can discoverfour centuries’ worth of rich regional history. Also displayed are the needle-

art pictures of the museum’s namesake, Julia A. Purnell.

A sidetrack west on MD 12/Old Furnace Rd. and across Nassawango Creek leads to the Furnace Town Living HeritageMuseum. Artisans in 19th-century attire toil at village shops. Nature trails wind through the 25-acre property, and muse-um exhibits tell tales of workers who once operated Maryland’s only bog-ore furnace.

Take the Public Landing Branch along MD 365 to Chincoteague Bay, where the E.A. Vaughn Kayak Trail incorporates 15miles of water routes between two boat landings. Rent a canoe in Snow Hill or farther east on Assateague Island, which

nationwide.” More than 30 miles ofmarked water trails meander throughsome 2,900 acres of creeks andmarshes, providing excellent vantagepoints for spying wildlife. Campsites,backcountry camping platforms and aboat ramp are also available.

Accessible only by boat from Crisfieldis Smith Island, the most isolated andunique of Maryland’s Chesapeakeislands. This bay-dependent commu-nity has remained relativelyunchanged since the first English set-tlers arrived here in the 17th century.Visit the Smith Island Center toexplore the area’s history, the life of awaterman, and the influence of thebay on islanders, and then head tothe Martin’s National Wildlife Refugeto learn more about wildfowl andtheir migratory patterns.

Catching the next boat back to themainland, follow 413 north to MD667 to pass through Rehobeth, siteof the oldest church in the country toremain exclusively Presbyterian, andhead for Pocomoke City. This deep-water river port rests along a state-owned forest famous for its stands ofloblolly pines. In town, you will find aone-room school museum and theCosten House, built shortly after theCivil War and showing off exquisiteVictorian Italianate architecture. Itwas once the home of Pocomoke’sfirst mayor.

Pocomoke City to Ocean City –US 113, US 113 Bus, US 50 East of Pocomoke City approachingthe Atlantic Ocean, Snow Hill standsas one of the Eastern Shore’s oldesttowns and was recently recognized a“Preserve America” community for

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Museum of Wildfowl Art, you willenjoy seeing the largest collection ofdecorative bird carvings in the world.And down the road past a minor-league baseball stadium is one of thefinest free-admission “small zoos” inthe nation.

A sidetrack off of MD 349 leads toPemberton Park, the centerpiece ofwhich is a typical 18th-century plan-tation house. Surrounding it are 4.5miles of nature trails among tidal andfreshwater wetlands, meadows andforests.

There is a Sharptown Branch of theBlue Crab byway that runs fromQuantico, north on MD 348, to linkinto the Chesapeake Country byway(page 139). Meanwhile, the roadback to Princess Anne takes you pasta branch to the Nanticoke River,

where a wildlife management areapromises exceptional bird watchingand photography. Back at Cox’sCorner, drive south on MD 352 tocross the Wicomico River on theWhitehaven Ferry, which has been incontinuous use since 1688.

OLD LINE LORE: Ocean City grewout of its roots as a humble fishing vil-lage to become “The Ladies Resort to theOcean” in the 1870s. It continued todevelop a decade later with the comingof the railroad, and is now recognized asthe East Coast’s “number one familyresort.”

Assateague Island NationalSeashore7206 National Seashore LnBerlin, 21811410-641-1441, 410-641-3030www.nps.gov/asis

is found down another branch of thisbyway. Wild ponies roam freely onthe island’s two miles of oceanbeaches, around secluded baysidecoves, and along marsh trails. Lookinto camping, hiking, fishing and bik-ing opportunities available at both astate park and a national seashorearea.

Back on the main loop, Antebellumhouses line tree-shaded streets in thetown of Berlin, which grew up in the19th century around a tavern, publicstable and blacksmith shop. For localhistory and lore, visit the Calvin B.Taylor House Museum before teeingup at one of the area’s popular golfcourses.

The next branch runs right intoOcean City, Maryland’s largestseashore resort. A 10-mile strand of

inviting white sand runs alongside avariety of oceanside or baysideaccommodations, water slides,amusement park rides and the world-famous boardwalk. You can alsochoose from charter sailing, jet skiing,parasailing, surfing, windsurfing,swimming and other water activities.

Ocean City to Princess Anne –MD 346, 349 & 352, WhiteHaven Rd, MD 3621 Moving inland again, you will soonbe greeted by the friendly town ofSalisbury. Having established itself asthe urban center of the region,Salisbury boasts an historic, pedestri-an-friendly Downtown Plaza withspecialty shops housed in Victorianstructures. Browse among antiquesand country crafts, admire artwork atlocal galleries, and tour the Georgian-style Poplar Hill Mansion. At the Ward

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Ocean City Life-Saving StationMuseum813 S BoardwalkOcean City, 21843410-289-4991www.ocmuseum.org

Pocomoke River State Forest3461 Worcester HwySnow Hill, 21863410-632-2566www.dnr.state.md.us/publiclands/eastern/pocomokeforest.html

Salisbury Zoo and Park755 S Park DrSalisbury, 21802410-548-3188www.salisburyzoo.org

Smith Island Center20846 Caleb Jones RdSmith Island, 21824410-425-3351, 1-800-521-9189www.smithisland.org

Teackle Mansion11736 Mansion StPrincess Anne, 21853410-651-2238, 1-800-521-9189www.teacklemansion.org

Ward Museum of Wildfowl Art909 S Shumaker DrSalisbury University, Salisbury, 21804410-742-4988www.wardmuseum.org

Assateague Island State Park7307 Stephen Decatur HwyBerlin, 21811410-641-2120, 1-888-432-2267www.dnr.state.md.us/publiclands/eastern/assateague.html

Calvin B. Taylor House Museum208 N Main StBerlin, 21811410-641-1019www.taylorhousemuseum.org

Furnace Town Living HeritageMuseum3816 Old Furnace RdSnow Hill, 21863410-632-2032www.furnacetown.com

J. Millard Tawes HistoricalMuseum3 Ninth St, Somers Cove MarinaCrisfield, 21817410-968-2501http://skipjack.net/le_shore/visitsomer-set/tawes_museum.html

Janes Island State Park26280 Alfred Lawson DrCrisfield, 21817410-968-1565www.dnr.state.md.us/publiclands/eastern/janesisland.html

Julia A. Purnell Museum208 W Market StSnow Hill, 21863410-632-0515www.purnellmuseum.com

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171

Destination MarketingOrganizations

ALLEGANY COUNTYAllegany County Dept. of Tourism13 Canal Place, Rm 306Cumberland, MD 21502301-777-5134; 800-425-2067

ANNAPOLIS/ANNE ARUNDELCOUNTYAnnapolis & Anne Arundel Cty.CVB26 West StreetAnnapolis, MD 21401410-280-0445; Balto. Line: 410-974-8188

BALTIMORE CITYBalto. Area Convention & VisitorsAssociation100 Light Street, 12th FloorBaltimore, MD 21202410-319-0977

BALTIMORE COUNTYBaltimore County CVBP.O. Box 5426 Lutherville, MD 21094-5426410-296-4886; 800-570-2836(toll free-office)

CALVERT COUNTYCalvert Cty. Dept. of EconomicDevelopment205 Main Street, 2nd FloorPrince Frederick, MD 20678410-535-4583; 800-331-9771

CAROLINE COUNTY15 S. Third StreetDenton, MD 21629(410) 479-2730

CARROLL COUNTYCarroll County Visitor Center210 E. Main StreetWestminster, MD 211571-800-272-1933; 410-848-1388

CECIL COUNTYCecil County Tourism1 Seahawk Drive, Suite 114North East, MD 21901410-996-6292 OR 1-800-CECIL-95

CHARLES COUNTYCharles County Office of TourismPO Box 21509 Washington AvenueLaPlata, MD 20646301-645-0558; 800-766-3386

DORCHESTER COUNTYDorchester County Tourism2 Rose Hill PlaceCambridge, MD 21613410-228-1000

FREDERICK COUNTYTourism Council of FrederickCounty, Inc.19 E. Church StreetFrederick, MD 21701301-600-2888; 800-999-3613

GARRETT COUNTYGarrett County Chamber ofCommerce15 Visitors Center DriveMcHenry, MD 21541301-387-4386

HARFORD COUNTYHarford County Office of Tourism1250 Bulle Rock ParkwayHavre de Grace, MD 21078410-939-6631

HOWARD COUNTYHoward County Tourism, Inc.P.O. Box 9; Deliveries: 8267 Main StEllicott City, MD 21043410-313-1900; 800-288-8747

KENT COUNTYKent County Office of TourismDevelopment400 High Street, 2nd FloorChestertown, MD 21620410-810-2830

MONTGOMERY COUNTYCVB of Montgomery, MD, Inc.111 Rockville Pike, Suite 800Rockville, MD 20850240-777-2060; 877-789-6904

PRINCE GEORGE’S COUNTYPrince George’s County CVB9200 Basil Court, Suite 101Largo, MD 20774301-925-8300

QUEEN ANNE’S COUNTYQueen Anne’s County Office ofTourism425 Piney Narrows RoadChester, MD 21619410-604-2100

ST. MARY’S COUNTYSt. Mary’s County Dept. of Econ. & Community Dev.P.O. Box 653; 23115 Leonard Hall Dr.Leonardtown, MD 20650301-475-4200 x1404

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Wicomico County Convention &Visitors Bureau8480 Ocean HwyDelmar 21875800-332-TOUR (8687)www.wicomicotourism.org

Heritage Tourism Alliance ofMontgomery County12535 Milestone Manor LaneGermantown, 20876301-515-0753www.HeritageMontgomery.org

Lower Susquehanna HeritageGreenwayhttp://brokenclaw.com/biking/susquehanna.html

Southern Maryland HeritageAreaPO Box 745Hughesville, 20637301-274-4083www.SouthernMdIsFun.com

Stories of the ChesapeakeHeritage AreaP. O. Box 727Chestertown, 21620410-778-1460www.storiesofthechesapeake.org

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SOMERSET COUNTYSomerset County TourismP.O. Box 243; (Deliveries): 11440Ocean Hwy.Princess Anne, MD 21853410-651-2968; 800-521-9189

TALBOT COUNTYTalbot County Office of Tourism11 S. Harrison StreetEaston, MD 21601410-770-8000

WASHINGTON COUNTYHagerstown-Washington Cty.CVB16 Public SquareHagerstown, MD 21740301-791-3246

WICOMICO COUNTYWicomico County CVB8480 Ocean HighwayDelmar, MD 21875410-548-4914; 800-332-TOUR

WORCESTER COUNTYWorcester County Tourism104 West Market StreetSnow Hill, MD 21863410-632-3110; 800-852-0335

OCEAN CITYOcean City CVB/Ocean City

TourismP.O. Box 158; (Deliveries): 4001Coastal Hwy.Ocean City, MD 21842410-723-8600

Ocean CityTourism/Convention Center4001 Coastal HighwayOcean City, MD 21842410-723-8617; 1-800-626-2326;Fax: 410-289-0058

Heritage Areas

Baltimore Heritage AreaRoom 346 City Hall100 N. Holliday StreetBaltimore, 21202410 396-1954www.starspangledtrails.org

Canal Place Heritage Area13 Canal Street, Room 301 –Cumberland, 21502 301-724-3655

www.canalplace.org

Four Rivers: The Heritage Areaof Annapolis, London Town &South CountyArundel Center, P.O. Box 270044 Calvert Street, MS 1106Annapolis, 21401-1930410-222-1805www.fourriversheritage.org

Heart of Chesapeake CountryHeritage Area 2 Rose Hill Place Cambridge, 21613 410-228-1000 www.tourchesapeakecountry.com

Heart of the Civil WarHeritage Area19 E. Church StreetFrederick, 21701(301) 600-4042www.heartofthecivilwar.org

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Acknowledgements

This guide book was developed andfunded through a partnershipbetween the Maryland State HighwayAdministation, Maryland Departmentof Business and EconomicDevelopment's Office of TourismDevelopment and the National Scenic Byways Program.

Photography Credits

© 1998 Kent County Office of Tourism Development

© 1999 Washington County Tourism© 2000 Lardner/Klein Landscape

Architects© 2001 John Milner Associates© 2005 Bernadette Van Pelt© Mary Means & Associates, Inc.© QAC Department of Business &

TourismAmerica’s Byways ®*Baltimore Area Convention and

Visitors AssociationBlaise WilligGreg Cooley, Maryland State Highway

AdministrationMark M. Odell, Governor’s Office,

State of MarylandMary Ann LisantiMichael Dersin

National Park Service, U.S.Department of the Interior

Richard LippenholzTerry Maxwell, Maryland State

Highway AdministrationTim TadderThe Walters Art Museum, BaltimoreTysha ManigoU.S. Naval Academy Photo Lab

*Copyright information and usage terms provided by the

Digital Media Library are subject to change without notice

and are accurate to the best of their knowledge.

174

Printer-insert appropriateFSC logo here

Points of AttractionsIndex

1st Mariner Arena: 93

Adkins Arboretum: 159

Appalachian National Scenic Trail: 13

Applewood Farm: 69

Baltimore & Ohio RailroadMuseum: 16

Baltimore Basilica: 92

Baltimore Heritage Walk: 95

Baltimore Museum of Art: 92

Baltimore Streetcar Museum: 74

Baltimore Visitor Center: 94

Bazzel Methodist EpiscopalChurch: 156

Benjamin Banneker HistoricalPark & Museum: 16

Berrywine Plantations/LinganoreWinecellars: 59

Blackwater National WildlifeRefuge: 149

Blue Blazes Whiskey Still: 52

Boordy Vineyards: 81

Bucktown Village Store: 156

Canal Place Heritage Area: 16

Carroll County Arts Council: 58

Carroll County Farm Museum: 58

Casselman River Bridge StatePark: 16

Catoctin Furnace: 51

Catoctin Mountain Park: 48

Catoctin Wildlife Preserve and Zoo: 49

Cecil County Dragway: 68

Chesapeake & Delaware CanalMuseum (1837): 151

Chesapeake Farms: 144

Cranesville Subartic Swamp: 22

Cray House and Train Depot: 147

Cromwell Valley Park: 82

Cunningham Falls State Park: 51

Cygnus Wine Cellars: 65

Deep Creek Lake State Park: 20

Discovery Center: 22

Eastern Neck National WildlifeRefuge: 144

Eden Mill Park and NatureCenter: 69

Elk Run Vineyards: 59

Fair Hill Natural ResourceManagement Area: 68

Fiore Winery: 67

Fishing Bay Wildlife ManagementArea: 150

Fort Frederick State Park: 14

Gambrill State Park: 51

Garrett State Forest: 22

Geddes-Piper House: 144

Green Ridge State Forest: 15

Greenbrier State Park: 45

Gunpowder Falls State Park: 70

Hagerstown RoundhouseMuseum: 17

Hampton National Historic Site: 81

Herrington Manor State Park: 23

Historic B&O Train Station: 23

Historical Society of CarrollCounty: 61

Homewood House Museum: 91

Kent Museum: 142

LaVale Toll Gate House: 17

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Loch Raven Reservoir: 81

Loew Vineyards: 59

Lonaconing Iron Furnace andPark: 26

Lovely Lane Museum: 96

Martinak State Park: 158

Maryland Science Center: 94

Maryland Zoo in Baltimore: 92

McDaniel College: 61

Mount Harmon Plantation: 142

Museum of Eastern Shore Life: 146

Museum of Rural Life: 159

National Lacrosse Museum andHall of Fame: 96

National Museum of Civil WarMedicine: 12

National Shrine Grotto ofLourdes: 49

National Shrine of St. ElizabethAnn Seton: 53

Navy Point: 151

New Windsor ConferenceCenter: 59

Oregon Ridge Nature Center and Park: 72

Oxford Museum: 148

Oxford-Bellevue Ferry: 152

Peabody Institute: 92

Pickering Creek Audubon Center: 148

Plumpton Park Zoo: 68

Port Discovery: 94

Potomac State Forest: 23

Prettyboy Reservoir: 65

Richardson Maritime Museumand Boatworks: 149

Robert E. Lee Park & Lake

Roland: 76

Rock Hall Museum: 144

Rocks State Park: 67

Rocky Gap State Park: 15

Roddy Road Covered Bridge: 49

Roger Brooke Taney & FrancisScott Key Museum: 17

Savage River State Forest: 16

Schooner Sultana 1768 and theSultana Center: 152

Shawan Downs: 78

Sherwood Gardens: 91

South Mountain State Park: 13

Stanley Institute: 155

Swallow Falls State Park: 22

the Children’s Museum of RoseHill Manor: 12

The Cloisters: 73

The Hippodrome Theatre at theFrance-Merrick Performing ArtsCenter: 93

Thrasher Carriage Museum: 18

Union Mills Homestead and GristMill: 58

Visitors Center at Sailwinds Park: 154

Walters Art Museum: 92

Washington Monument StatePark: 13

Western Maryland RailwayHistorical Society Museum: 59

Western Maryland ScenicRailroad & The Old FrostburgDepot: 18

Wilson’s General Store/One RoomSchoolhouse: 14

Wisp Mountain Resort: 22

Wye Grist Mill and Museum: 152

This publication was created and isdistributed in partnership with theFederal Highway Administration,the Maryland State HighwayAdministration and the Maryland Office of Tourism.

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