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LoveArtsCrafts Guide to Crochet and Creative Patterns

Patterns, Tips and Techniques for Everyone- From Beginners to Expert Crocheterers

LoveArtsCrafts.com Guide to Crochet and Creative Patterns

1 LoveArtsCrafts.com Guide to Crochet and Creative Patterns

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TABLE OF CONTENTS

1. INTRODUCTION 4

2. BODY POSITION AND COMFORT 5

3. CROCHET HOOKS AND CROCHET YARN 6-10

4. STITCHING FOR BEGINNERS 10-16 4.1 Holding the hook and the yarn: 4.2 The starting Loop or slipknot: 4.3 Chain (Ch): 4.4 Single Crochet(sc): 4.5 Half Double crochet: 4.6 Double Crochet (dc ): 4.7 Ripple or Treble crochet (tr): 4.8 Half treble/triple: 4.9 Double Treble: 4.10 Slip Stitch (ss):

5. PATTERNS

5.1 PATTERNS FOR BEGINNERS 17-25 5.1.1 V-Stitch Crochet Scarf

5.1.2 Beach Mat 5.1.3 Beginner Baby Blanket 5.1.4 Flower Free Crochet Pattern 5.1.5 Tote Bag 5.1.6 Granny Square Heart Pattern: 5.2 PATTERNS FOR BABIES 26-37 5.2.1 Free Baby Hat Crochet Pattern 5.2.2: Baby Booties 5.2.3: Eloise Baby Sweater 5.2.4: Crocheted Teething Rings 5.2.5: Baby Snuggle and Hat Set



5.3: HAT PATTERNS 38-45 5.3.1: Charleston Cloche 5.3.2: Knit Layered Scarf 5.3.3: Elegant Hat 5.4.4: Ice Queen Cap 5.4 BLANKET PATTERNS 45-54 5.4.1: Granny Square Baby Blanket 5.4.2: Steamwave Throw 5.4.3: Kaleidoscope Afghan 5.4.4: Monet Afghan 5.4.5: Road Trip Baby Blanket

6. STITCH LIBRARY 55-56

7. CROCHET HOOK SIZES CONVERSION CHART 57



INTRODUCTION

Crochet is fun, it’s versatile, quick to learn: and it’s nowhere near as difficult as many people

think! With the help of this useful guide, you can learn to crochet even if you’ve never picked

up a hook before.

Learning to crochet has been made even simpler with today’s technology. Within this eBook,

you’ve got a powerful collection of videos to get you started down the right track.

Sometimes it’s a bit confusing to know where to start, and with so many patterns available, it

can be pretty overwhelming. There’s such a variety of patterns and styles to choose from that

we can become lost, confused, and even a little apprehensive to pick one! It can be a real

challenge to find something that is right for your skill level and the amount of free time you

have to dedicate to crochet.

Luckily for you, we’ve picked out some of the most popular patterns on AllFreeCrochet,

compiled them, and now they’re yours at no extra cost! Could it get any better than that? You

won’t have to worry yourself searching for projects or wasting time anymore: just take a quick

look at our table of contents to see which category seems right for you, and start moving those

hooks!

There are additional ideas and patterns on our website at www.loveartscrafts.com.

http://loveartscrafts.com/

http://loveartscrafts.com/



2. BODY POSITION AND COMFORT By: Mikey from The Crochet Crowd

You may have a favourite chair that you like to sit in when you crochet or maybe you’ve never

thought about it. The type of chair you choose matters when it comes to maximizing your

comfort while you crochet. Crocheting requires you to keep your head down continuously, so

your body posture is of the utmost importance if you want to avoid pain in your neck, arms,

legs or lower back after crocheting.

The angle of your body and your positioning is also important. For example, if you’re sitting

on a loveseat while you crochet, it’s best to center yourself in the middle with pillows tucked

under your elbows. This will give you the best arm support.

TheCrochetCrowd is going to teach you how to sit most properly while crocheting. Finding

the right position will determine your overall level of comfort. Mikey is going to give you

some winning tips for releasing pressure from your back, shoulders and arms. He’s also going

to show you where to place your yarn balls when you are crocheting to control the tension.

Finally, he’ll give you the lowdown on holding a hook and positioning yarn in your hands.

http://bit.ly/1HKrUpR

http://thecrochetcrowd.com/crochetintroduction-25/



3.1 Crochet Hooks You may have a favourite set of general hooks that you use most of the time, but there are

some hooks used for specific projects: and many niche crochet techniques require special

tools. Here are some examples:

1. Tunisian crochet requires a specific hook type that is longer than a standard crochet

hook.

2. Thread crochet uses small steel crochet hooks.

3. Broomstick lace requires drawing loops up onto a larger hook; a big plastic crochet

hook is smoothest for this job.

4. Bullion stitch may require a smoother hook or specific hook head for easier

crocheting.

5. Wire crochet work can be hard on hooks--especially bamboo ones--so you’ll need a

separate set of tools for these projects.

6. Double-ended crochet projects require hooks that have a head on each end.

Specialty Hooks

7. Besides the normal hooks, there are specialty ones to work with Tunisian crochet and

Crochet on the Double.

8. The Afghan hook uses the same basic sizing system as a regular 5" to 7" hook, but it

is generally much longer at 10" or 14" long. You can also get afghan hooks with a

flexible wire so you can hold more stitches. It is similar to the knitting system of using

circular needles.

9. The hook used for Crochet on the Double and Croche tnit has a hook on both ends of

the tool. The hook is the same size on both ends.

10. A new tool on the market is the Knook. It is generally made of bamboo and has

a hole at the top where you thread cord. It is used to "knit" with a crochet hook.



Parts of a Crochet Hook

Buying hooks can be confusing because there’s so many different

kinds to choose from!

First, you should know the parts of your hook.

The head or hook is the most essential part of the tool and a large

part of what makes it different from knitting needles. While some

people do refer to it as the “hook,” it is often called the "point" or

"head" to distinguish it from the hook as a whole.

There are two basic hook types. They are often referred to as Bates

and Boye, but they are really in-line and tapered. This refers to the

shape of the head and throat of the hook. Sometimes it is difficult

to tell the difference between in-line and tapered hooks. Most

crocheters, however, have a strong opinion of which is “better”,

meaning which one they prefer to use: often exclusively. In all

honesty, neither is really better than the other: it’s just a matter of

personal preference.

You’ll notice the difference in Bates and Boye hooks as you look to

the shafts of each type. Bates has a very small shaft, whereas Boye

has a longer shaft. Working with both types should help you

identify your preference.

Not all crochet hooks have a grip or thumb rest section. Some are straight or made in other

ways, such as the wooden or clay hooks.

The handle is often the part of the hook where the designers let their creativity flow. Many

crochet hook designers take aluminum hooks and add clay or plastic handles in various colors

and designs.



Best crochet hooks: Soft Touch Crochet hook

If you’re wondering about which crochet hooks other crocheters consider to be the best, you’ll

be glad to know that the general consensus seems to stand behind the ergonomic hooks with

soft rubberized handles. If it’s not already clear in your mind, here are just a few of the

reasons why these crochet hooks are so popular:

• Soft rubber design is comfortable on the hands for prolonged periods of crocheting

• Unique shape is designed specifically for smooth crocheting

• Combination of rubber and aluminum makes these durable, long-lasting crochet hooks

• Affordable in comparison with other types of crochet hooks

The ergonomic design that allows for lengthy crocheting time without hand or wrist pain is

the number one reason people favour these crochet hooks: and you can buy them direct from

us at

Loveartscrafts! They are color coded in 9 different sizes, and the sizes are printed right on the

handles for easy identification and organization.

If you want to invest in your own color-coded soft grip hooks, head to LovesArtsCrafts.com!

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00Y7QWHUO





3.2 CROCHET YARN

Crochet Yarn The yarn you’re using in your project is just as important as the needles you work with.

Different projects will call for different weights of yarn, and there’s a quite a few types that

you should be familiar with right off the bat. Most often, you’ll be working with a yarn made

of acrylic, cotton, or wool.

1. Lace and Fingering yarn weights are the thinnest and most delicate that you can

find.

2. Sport yarn is also fine, but it’s very suitable for blanket-making or clothing for babies

and toddlers.

3. Light Worsted yarn has a more substantial feel to it, and it’s ideal for a lot of

different projects across the spectrum.

4. Worsted yarn is more commonly used for crafting winter clothing and heavy

blankets.

5. Bulky yarn is perfect for making scarves and other household statement pieces: like a

table runner or an area rug.

It’s vital that you pay attention to the pattern that you’re working with. Strive to get the same

yarn weight used in the pattern you’re following for the best results possible. If you don’t

follow that pattern closely, your final product could turn out less than exciting. There’s

endless yarn colors that you can buy: and if you’re unsure about what size crochet hook you

might need, just refer to the pattern or the label on your yarn package for a quick reminder.



There are times when you’ll be working on a huge project that requires a whole bunch of

yarn. In these instances, it’s a good idea for you to pay attention to the dye lot labeled on your

yarn’s packaging. Make note of it just in case you need to buy more from the same lot: and if

you can, just buy some backup yarn to avoid running out. Sometimes, combining different

dye lots in your projects can have a negative effect. If you’re just beginning to learn with

crochet, you should focus on lighter colors of yarns so you can clearly identify your stitches.

As you become more skilled, you can feel free to experiment with more and more colors!



4. STITCHING FOR BEGINNERS

4.1 Holding the hook and the yarn:

4.2 The starting Loop or slipknot:

Before you can do any crochet stitches, you need to know how to hold the yarn and the hook. The traditional technique is to hold the hook is as though it were a pen, gripping it between your thumb and first finger just near the actual hook section – the same way as you would hold a knitting needle. The traditional method to work is by holding the yarn and the base of the working loop in your left hand. Start by gripping the base of the starting slipknot underneath the hook and between the thumb and first finger of your left hand. Leave the cut end of the yarn to dangle free and take the ball end over your fingers, wrapping it round your little finger. To make each stitch, you either twist the hook clockwise around the yarn, or loop the yarn over the hook to wrap the yarn around the hook, ready for the next stitch. Extend your middle finger to regulate the flow of the yarn, taking care not to pull the yarn too tightly.

Before you begin, you will need to make your first stitch. This will form the basis for all the following stitches. We will begin by making a slip knot on the crochet hook about 6 inches from the free end of the yarn. You will first start by creating a loop with the yarn. Be sure that the free end of the yarn is dangling behind your loop Insert the crochet hook through the center of the loop and hook the free end. Pull this through and up onto the working area of the crochet hook. Pull the free yarn end to tighten the loop. The loop on the crochet hook should be firm, but loose enough to slide back and forth easily on the hook. Be sure you still have about a 6-inch yarn end.



4.3 Chain (Ch):

4.4 Single Crochet(sc):

Almost all crochet items start with a length of chain stitches, and they also often appear within stitch patterns. Wherever the chain is required, it is made in the same way. Once you have the yarn wrapped, hold the base of the slip knot with the thumb and index finger of your left hand. Bring the yarn over the crochet hook from back to front and hook it. Draw hooked yarn through the loop of the slip knot on the hook and up onto the working area of the crochet hook; you have now made one chain stitch. Again, hold the base of the slip knot and bring the yarn over the crochet hook from back to front. Hook it and draw through loop on the hook. You have made another chain stitch. We will repeat Step 3 for each additional chain. It is important to note that you should always move the left thumb and index finger up the chain close to the crochet hook after each new stitch or two (see illustration 13). This helps you control the work. Also, be sure to pull each new stitch up onto the working area of the hook; otherwise your starting chain stitches will become too tight. Or watch this Chain Crochet Tutorial Video.

Once you’ve got a nice chain going, you can transition into the single crochet stitch. Work up your yarn until you’ve got one extra chain stitch than you want to single crochet. To get started, you want to push the head of your hook through the second chain stitch from your hook’s resting position. Once it’s through that second chain stitch, you’ll wrap your yarn one time before bringing it back through that second chain stitch. At this point, you should have two loops on your hook instead of the single loop you started with. Next, you’ll wrap your yarn once more and pull down on your hook to bring it through the two loops: and that completes one single crochet stitch. Continue working up your chain stitches until you’ve completed the entire row. Once you’ve reached the end, chain another stitch by wrapping your yarn around the hook once and pulling through the stitch. From here, you can start a new row of chain stitches. This Single Crochet Tutorial Video can give you the play-by-play.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OtmOEzm_OXQ

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OqhaQQajt0U




4.5 Half Double crochet:

4.6 Double Crochet (dc ):

Step 1: First make a slip knot and chain 13. Bring the yarn once over the crochet hook from back to front, skip the first two chains and then insert the hook in the third chain from the hook. Step 2: Bring the yarn over the crochet hook and draw it through the chain stitch and up onto the working area of the hook. You now have three loops on the hook (see illustration 36). Step 3: Bring the yarn over the crochet hook and draw it though all three loops on the hook in one motion.

You have completed one half double crochet; one loop remains on the hook. To finish the row, continue to work one half double crochet in each remaining chain across the row. Now that we have completed the row, you should stop and count your stitches. You should have 12 half double crochets, counting the first two chains you skipped at the beginning of the row as a half double crochet. Turn your work counterclockwise. Watch this Half-Double Crochet Stitch Tutorial Video.

Step 1: Make a slip knot and chain 14. Bring the yarn over the hook from back to front, skip the first three chains from the hook and then insert the hook in the fourth chain. Step 2: Bring the yarn over the crochet hook from back to front and draw it through the chain stitch and up onto the working area of the hook; you now have three loops on the hook. Step 3: Bring the yarn over the crochet hook from back to front and draw through the first two loops on the hook. You now have two loops on the hook. Step 4: Bring the yarn over the crochet hook from back to front and draw through both loops on the hook. Continue working one double crochet in each remaining chain across. After working in each chain across, count your double crochet stitches. There should be 12 of them, counting the first three chain stitches you skipped at the beginning of the row as a double crochet (see illustration 32). Watch this Double Crochet Stitch Tutorial Video.





4.7 Triple or Treble crochet (tr):

4.8 Half treble/triple:

Step 1: First make a slip knot and chain 15 stitches loosely. Wrap the yarn around the crochet hook from back to front twice, skip the first four chains and then insert the hook into the fifth chain from the hook. Step 2: Bring the yarn over the crochet hook (from back to front) and draw it through the chain stitch and up onto the working area of the hook; you now have four loops on the hook. Step 4: Bring the yarn over the crochet hook again and draw it through the next two loops on the hook. Two loops remain on the hook. Step 5: Bring the yarn over the crochet hook and draw it through both remaining loops on the hook. You now have completed one treble crochet; one loop remains on the hook. Continue working the 5 steps in each of the remaining chains across. When you have worked your last chain, count your stitches: there should be 12 treble crochets, counting the first four chains you skipped at the beginning of the row as a treble. And here’s a Triple Crochet Stitch Tutorial Video to make it easier!

A half treble stitch is a variation of a treble; its height is halfway between that of a double crochet and a treble stitch. To make a half treble, start in exactly the way a treble is made until there are 3 loops on the hook. Wrap the yarn around the hook once more and draw this new loop through all 3 loops on the hook to complete the half treble stitch.

https://www.anniescatalog.com/supplies/list.html?cat_id=1401

http://www.anniescatalog.com/yarn_and_thread/list.html




4.9 Double Treble:

4.10 Slip Stitch (ss):

Another variation of a treble is the double treble stitch. This gets its name from the fact that the yarn is wrapped twice around the hook before it is inserted into the work. To make a double treble stitch, start by wrapping the yarn around the hook twice before inserting it into the work. Wrap the yarn around the hook again and draw this new loop through the work. There are now 4 loops on the hook. Take the yarn around the hook once more and draw this new loop through just the first 2 loops on the hook. There are now 3 loops on the hook. Wrap the yarn around the hook again and draw this new loop through the first 2 loops on the hook, leaving just 2 loops on the hook. To complete the double treble stitch, wrap the yarn around the hook once more and draw this new loop through both the remaining loops on the hook. Or watch the video for Double Treble Stitch Tutorial Video.

We will begin by chaining 10. Row 1: To work row 1, we will be using the double crochet stitch and will double crochet in the fourth chain from the crochet hook and in each chain across. To begin the double crochet, yarn over the hook from back to front, insert the hook in the fourth chain from hook, yarn over again and draw it through the chain stitch and up onto the working area of the hook; you should have three loops on the hook. Yarn over and draw though the first two loops on the hook. You now have two loops on the hook. Yarn over and draw through both loops on the hook. One double crochet is completed and six more to go. Turn work. On the next row, you are going to slip stitch across the first four stitches before beginning to work double crochet again. Row 2: To work row 2, instead of making three chains for the turning chain as you would usually do for a second row of double crochet, this time just chain one. The turning chain-one does not count as a stitch; therefore, insert the crochet hook under both loops of the first stitch, yarn over and draw the yarn through both loops of the stitch and loop on the hook; one slip stitch made.



We will now work a slip stitch in the same manner in each of the next three stitches. Now we’re going to finish the row in double crochet; first you will chain 3 to get yarn at the right height (the chain 3 counts as a double crochet), then work a double crochet in each of the remaining stitches. You can see that we moved the yarn across with slip stitches and added very little height.



Crochet Hook: I/9 or 5.5 mm hook

Yarn Weight: (4) Medium Weight/Worsted Weight and Aran (16-20 stitches to 4 inches) Materials: 5 1/2 oz worsted weight yarn Size I hook Measurements: 6 ½ inches wide by 46 ¾ inches

long or desired length

MATERIAL

5. PATTERNS 5.1 Patterns for Beginners

5.1.1 V-Stitch Crochet Scarf By: Barbara Badder from Barb's Crochet

To stitch V-stitch, yarn over, insert hook in stitch, yarn over, pull through stitch, (yarn over, pull through 2 lps) twice, yarn over, pull through loop, yarn over, insert hook in same stitch, yarn over, pull through stitch, (yarn over, pull through 2 lps) twice.

Pattern:

Ch 28 loosely. Row 1: (Dc, ch 1, dc) in the fifth ch from hook (V-st made). *skip the next 2 chs, work a V-st in next ch. Repeat from * across to the last 2 ch, dc in last ch. (8 V-sts). Row 2: Ch 3, turn. (Counts as turning chain and first dc). Work a V-st in each ch 1 sp across, dc in top of beginning ch. Row 3–83: Repeat Row 2 for 81 rows or until the scarf is the desired length.

Abbreviations:

ch st chain stitch dc double crochet hdc half-double crochet sc single crochet sl st slip stitch trc triple crochet yo yarn over tr treble crochet

http://www.allfreecrochet.com/Scarves/Beginner-V-Stitch-Crochet-Scarf



Crochet Hook: 4.5 mm hook Yarn Weight: (4) Medium Weight/Worsted Weight and Aran (16-20 stitches to 4 inches) Material: Bernat Handicrafter Cotton Main Color (MC) 5 Contrast A 4 Contrast B 4 Contrast C 4 Size 4.5 mm (U.S. 7) crochet hook or

size needed to obtain gauge. Measurements: Approx 28 x 60 ins [71 x 152 cm]. Gauge: 14 sc and 16 rows = 4 ins [10 cm].

MATERIAL

5.1.2 Beach Mat By: Barbara Badder from Barb's Crochet

Pattern: With MC, ch 99. Row 1: (RS). 1 dc in 4th ch from hook (counts as 2 dc). 1 dc in each ch across. 97 sts. Join A. Turn. Row 2: With A, ch 1. 1 sc in each dc across. Join MC. Turn. Row 3: With MC, ch 3 (counts as dc). 1 dc in each sc across. Join A. Turn. Row 4: As 2nd row. Join B. Turn. Row 5: With B, as 3rd row. Join C. Turn. Row 6: With C, as 2nd row. Join B. Turn. Row 7: As 5th row. Row 8: With C, as 2nd row. Join A. Turn. Row 9: With A, as 3rd row. Join MC. Turn. Row 10: With MC, as 2nd row. Join A. Turn. Row 11: As 9th row.

Abbreviations:

ch st chain stitch dc double crochet hdc half-double crochet sc single crochet sl st slip stitch trc triple crochet yo yarn over tr treble crochet sp space sk skip pat st pattern stitch

http://www.allfreecrochet.com/Seasonal-Crochet/Beginner-Beach-Mat-from-Bernat



Row 12: With MC, as 2nd row. Join C. Turn. Row 13: With C, as 3rd row. Join B. Turn. Row 14: With B, as 2nd row. Join C. Turn. Row 15: As 13th row. Row 16: With B, as 2nd row. Join MC. Turn. Row 17: With MC, as 3rd row. Join A. Turn. Rep 2nd to 17th rows for Stripe Pat until work from beg measures approx 57½ ins [146 cm] ending on a 4th row of pat. Fasten off. Edging: 1st Round: With RS facing, join MC with sl st to any corner of Mat and work 1 row of sc evenly around outer edge, working 3 sc in corners. Join with sl st to first sc. 2nd Round: Ch 1. Working from left to right, instead of from right to left as usual, work 1 reverse sc in each sc around. Join with sl st to first sc. Fasten off. Ties: (make 2) With MC, make a chain 36 ins [91.5 cm] long. Turn ch sideways and sl st in each ‘bump’ at side of chain. Fasten off. Fold each tie in half and sew to short end of Mat 2½ ins [6 cm] in from side edges.



Soft Worsted Weight Yarn Model is stitched with the

following: A: White Approx. 210 yards B: Soft Fern (Bernat Satin)

Approx. 140 yards C: Lagoon (Bernat Satin)

Approx. 140 yards D: Strawberry (Caron Simply

Soft) Approx. 140 yards E: Grey Mist (Hobby Lobby’s I

Love This Yarn) Approx. 70 yards Crochet Hook: I/9 or 5.5 mm Size: Finished size is

approximately 26” x 30”

MATERIAL

5.1.3 Beginner Baby Blanket By: Rebecca Langford from Little Monkeys Crochet

Pattern: Row 1: With A, FDC 94. (If you do not want to learn this stitch, you can also complete this row by chaining 96, then DC in 3rd ch from hook and DC across.) Switch to Color B. Next DC (repeat the following steps for as many DCs as you need): Yo and insert hk into the loops of the last. DC. It’s a little hard to see at first, but you’ll get the hang of it once you get going. Draw up the loop and Ch 1 from the loop. Yo, draw through the first two loops. Yo again and draw through remaining two loops. Instructions: Row 1: With A, FDC 94. (If you don’t want to learn this stitch, you can also complete this row by chaining 96, then DC in 3rd ch from hook and DC across.) Switch to Color B. The rest of this blanket, until you get to the edging, is worked in the back loops only.

FDC (foundationless double crochet): First DC: Ch 3. Yo and insert hk into third ch from

hk. Draw up a loop (you will have 3 loops on your hook), then yo and pull through only the first loop. (You will still have 3 loops on your hook.) Now, complete the DC as normal. Next DC (repeat the following steps for as many DCs as you need): Yo and insert hk into the loops of the last DC. It’s a little hard to see at first, but you’ll get the hang of it once you get going. Draw up the loop and Ch 1 from the loop. Yo, draw through the first two loops. Yo again and draw through remaining two loops.

http://littlemonkeyscrochet.com/



Rows 2-6: Ch 2. 1 DC in next St and in each St across (94 DC) Switch to Color A Row 7: Ch 2. 1 DC in next St and in each St across (94 DC) Switch to Color E Row 8: Ch 2. 1 DC in next St and in each St across (94 DC) Switch to Color A Row 9: Ch 2. 1 DC in next St and in each St across (94 DC) Switch to Color C Rows 10-14: Ch 2. 1 DC in next St and in each St across (94 DC) Switch to Color A Row 15: Ch 2. 1 DC in next St and in each St across (94 DC) Switch to Color E Row 16: Ch 2. 1 DC in next St and in each St across (94 DC) Switch to Color A Row 17: Ch 2. 1 DC in next St and in each St across (94 DC) Switch to Color D Rows 18-22: Ch 2. 1 DC in next St and in each St across (94 DC) Switch to Color A Row 23: Ch 2. 1 DC in next St and in each St across (94 DC) Switch to Color E Row 24: Ch 2. 1 DC in next St and in each St across (94 DC) Switch to Color A Row 25: Ch 2. 1 DC in next St and in each St across (94 DC) Rows 26-47: Repeat rows 2-23 EDGING: With Color A (which you should have ended on in row 47),Ch 1. SC evenly around the entire blanket, using 3 SC in each corner. Ch 2. 1 DC in each SC around, using 4 DC in each corner. Fasten off. Weave in all ends.



Soft Worsted Weight Yarn: Worsted Weight Yarn Crochet Hooks: H/8 or 5 mm and J/10 or 6 mm Skill level: Easy Notes: 1. Hook size does not really

matter, it just depends on how big you want your flowers. 2. If it starts to curl up, just add

an extra sc or 2 as you do steps 3 and 5 to make it lie flat.

MATERIAL

5.1.4 Flower Free Crochet Pattern By: Jean Kake from Quilted Cupcake

Pattern: Step 1. With center color, start with a magic ring. Step 2. Chain 2, make 16 hdc into the ring and join. Step 3. Chain 1, make 1 sc in each hdc from previous round. Join. Step 4. Finish off center color, add in outer color. Step 5. Chain 1, make 1 sc in each sc from previous round. Join. Step 6. *Chain 4, 1 sc in next stitch * Repeat all the way around. Join and finish.

http://quiltedcupcake.blogspot.com/



About 250 yards of worsted weight yarn An I hook A safety pin for marking stitches. A flower or other embellishment to spice it up! NOTE:

The chain 2 at the beginning of the first four rounds does NOT count as the first stitch – you will need to work in that stitch you would normally skip. You will be joining rounds in the first true DC stitch rather than the top of the turning chain.

MATERIAL

5.1.5 Tote bag By: Lauren

Pattern: Round 1: Work 12 DC in the first chain from hook. Join in the top of the first DC. (12) Round 2: ch 2. 2 DC in each stitch around. Join to the top of the first DC. (24) Round 3: ch 2. *DC in the next stitch, 2 DC in the next* around. Join in the top of the first DC. (36) Round 4: ch 2. *DC in the next 2 stitches, 2 DC in the next* around. Join in the top of the first DC.(48)

Abbreviations:


http://daisycottagedesigns.net/crochet/daisy-granny-square-crochet-pattern/



Round 5: Ch 3. *DC, ch 1* in each stitch. Do not slip stitch to the top of the starting chain. Instead, insert your hook in the first ch1 space of round 5 and continue with round 6 (see photo above). NOTE: Please understand that since you’re working in spiral, there will be a gap when you first transition to working in spiral. If you’d like to minimize this gap, make the last stitch of round 5 and the first stitch of round 6 a hdc. Rounds 6-23: DC, ch 1 in each ch 1 space. At the end of round 23, join with a slip stitch to the first DC of the previous round. Round 24: Ch 2. DC in each ch 1 space. Round 25: ch 2. DC BETWEEN each DC of the previous round. Handles will be worked in rows. The Ch 2 does count as a stitch here. I work between stitches, but you could work in the stitches, too. Row 1: Ch 2. DC in the next 9 stitches. (10) Row 2: ch 2, turn. DC decrease in the next two stitches. DC in the next 5. DC decrease in the last two stitches. (8) Row 3: ch 2, turn. DC decrease in the next two stitches. DC in the next 3. DC decrease in the last two stitches. (6) Rows 4-15: ch 2, turn. DC in the next 5 stitches (6). (Continue on if you’d like longer straps) Cut yarn and weave ends. Fold your bag in half as evenly as possible to determine where to start the other side of the handle (I skipped 15 stitches) and work the handle on the other side of the bag. Single crochet the two sides of the handle together on the wrong side.



Small amounts of worsted weight yarn H Crochet Hook Size: Heart measures approximately 7″ tall.

MATERIAL

5.1.6 Granny Square Heart Patter: By: Lauren

Daisy Center: Ch 3 Round 1: 12 dc into the first ch. Sl st to the top of the first dc (not the chains). Cut yarn and weave ends. (12) Round 2: ch 3, STCC in the same stitch, ch 2. *TCC in the next stitch, ch 2* around. Sl st to the top of the STCC. Cut yarn and weave ends. (12 clusters and 12 ch 2 spaces made) Final Round: sc in the first 5 stitches, 2 sc in the next stitch, *sc in the next 2 stitches, 2 sc in the next stitch* two more times. Sc in the next 24 stitches (this includes the ch 1 spaces). At the bottom of the heart, sc, ch 2, sc. Sc in the next 24 stitches. 2 sc in the next stitch, *sc in the next 2 stitches, 2 sc in the next stitch* two more times. Sc in the next 5 stitches. Sl st to the first sc. Cut yarn and weave ends.

Starting Triple Crochet Cluster (STCC): ch 3, wrap yarn around hook twice. Insert hook into a dc from the previous round. Pull up a loop; yarn over, pull through 2 loops; yarn over, pull through two loops. There should be 2 loops remaining on your hook. Yarn over twice, insert hook into the SAME stitch; pull up a loop; yarn over, pull through 2 loops; yarn over, pull through 2 loops. There should now be 3 loops on your hook. Yarn over, pull through all loops. Triple Crochet Cluster (TCC): Wrap yarn around hook twice. Insert hook into a dc from the

previous round. Pull up a loop; yarn over, pull through 2 loops; yarn over, pull through two loops. There should be 2 loops remaining on your hook. Yarn over twice, insert hook into the SAME stitch; pull up a loop; yarn over, pull through 2 loops; yarn over, pull through 2 loops. There should now be 3 loops on your hook. Yarn over twice, insert hook into the SAME stitch. Pull up a loop; yarn over, pull through 2 loops; yarn over, pull through 2 loops; There should now be 4 loops on your hook. Yarn over, pull through all loops. Half Treble Crochet (HTC): Bunny Mummy’s pattern calls for half treble crochets. Here’s how

you do those: Wrap yarn around hook twice. Insert hook into a stitch on the previous round. Pull up a loop. yarn over, pull through 2 loops. You should now have 3 loops on your hook. Yarn over, pull through all three loops. Now that we’ve got all that out of the way, we’re ready to get started.

http://daisycottagedesigns.net/crochet/daisy-granny-square-crochet-pattern/



Worsted Weight Yarn (turquoise or blue and white) I used 100% cotton Small amounts of green and yellow or gold worsted weight yarn

I crochet hook F crochet hook Favorite Findings Buttons (434 – Blue Ocean) thread for sewing on buttons tapestry needle Notes: Chains do NOT count as the first stitch.

MATERIAL

5.2 Patterns for Babies 5.2.1 Free Baby Hat Crochet Pattern

Pattern: Hat Pattern: Using an I hook and blue yarn, ch 2. Round 1: 8 sc into the first chain. Sl st to the top of the first sc. ch 2 (8) Round 2: 2 dc into each stitch. Sl st to the top of the first dc. ch 2. (16) Round 3: 2 dc into each stitch. Sl st to the top of the first dc. Cut yarn and weave ends. (32) Round 4: Join white yarn with a sl st. Ch 2. 1 dc in the same stitch, 2 dc into the next stitch. *1 dc into the next stitch, 2 dc into the next stitch* around. Sl st to the top of the first dc. Ch 2. (48) Rounds 5‐10: dc in each stitch around. Sl st to the top of the first dc. Ch 2. At the end of round 10, cut yarn and weave ends. (48) Round 11: Join blue yarn with a sl st. ch 2, dc in each stitch around. Sl st to the top of the first dc. Ch 2. (48)

Abbreviations:

ch st chain stitch dc double crochet hdc half-double crochet sc single crochet sl st slip stitch trc triple crochet yo yarn over tr treble crochet sp space sk skip



Round 12: dc in each stitch around. Sl st to the top of th efirst dc. (48)Stop here and add one round of sc if you want a beanie. If you’d like an earflap hat, keep going without cutting yarn. Earflap Directions: Ch 1. Row 1: hdc in the same stitch and in the next 11 stitches. Ch 1, turn. (12) Row 2: hdc 2 together, hdc in the next 8 stitches, hdc 2 together. Ch 1, turn. (10) Row 3: hdc 2 together, hdc in the next 6 stitches, hdc 2 together. Ch 1, turn. (8) Row 4: hdc 2 together, hdc in the next 4 stitches, hdc 2 together. Ch 1, turn. (6) Row 5: hdc 2 together, hdc in the next 2 stitches, hdc 2 together. Ch 1, turn. (4) Row 6: hdc in each stitch across. Ch 1, turn. (4) Row 7: hdc 2 together, hdc 2 together. Cut yarn and weave ends. (2) You will now need to work the second earflap. On the front of the hat, skip 13 stitches and join blue yarn. You will work it exactly as you did the one above. To finish the hat, sc evenly around the entire hat working two stitches in the corners of the earflaps. Cut yarn and weave all ends. Goldfish Appliqué: Using an f crochet hook and yellow/gold yarn, ch 7 (photo 1). Row 1: sc in the second ch from hook. hdc in the next, dc in the next 2 stitches, hdc in the next, sc in the next. ch 3. sc in the second ch from hook, hdc in the next. sl st in the same stitch. (Photo 2) Row 2: ch 3. sc in the second ch from hook, hdc in the next. Sl st in the BACK of the first stitch on the opposite side of the fish (photo 3). hdc in the next stitch, dc in the next 2 stitches, hdc in the next stitch, sc in the next. ch 1, sl st to the first stitch of the previous row. Cut yarn and leave a long tail for sewing on the hat.



Grass Appliqué (see photo 4): Using green yarn and an F crochet hook, ch 7.sl st in the second ch from the hook. sc in the next 5 stitches. Do not cut yarn.ch 10. sl st in the second ch from hook. sc in the next 8 stitches. Do not cut yarn.ch 6. sl st in the second ch from hok. sc in the next 4 stitches. Cut yarn leaving a long tail for sewing on the hat. When you’re finished you should have three “blades of grass” as shown in photo 4 above. Braids: For each side of the hat, cut 9 strands of yarn (I do three strands of 3 different colors) approximately 40 inches long. Fold them in half and pull the “loop” through the hat. Pull the loose ends through the loop to attach the yarn. Separate each color to make three strands. Then braid and knot at the end to secure. Cut yarn to make the ends even.



I Love this Cotton Yarn ( Hobby Lobby) 3.77 mm Hook Tapestry Needle

MATERIAL

5.2.2: Baby Booties

Pattern: Sole: Round 1: Ch 15, dc in 4th ch from hook, dc in each of next 10 chs, 4 dc in last ch, working on opposite side of foundation ch, dc in each of the next 10 chs, join in top of beg ch. (26 dc) Round 2: Ch 3 (counts as first dc throughout), dc in each of the next 11 dc, 2 dc in each of next 5 dc, dc in each of next 8 dc, 2 dc in next dc, join in 3rd ch of beg ch-3. (32 dc) Round 3: Ch 3, dc in same st as beg ch-3, dc in each of next 13 dc, [2dc in next dc, dc in next dc] 3 times, dc in each of next 11 dc, 2 dc in next dc, join in 3rd ch of beg ch-3. (37dc) Round 4: Ch 2 (counts as first hdc throughout), working in back loops for this round only, hdc in each st around, join in 2nd ch of beg ch-2. Round 5: Ch 2, hdc in each hdc around, join in 2nd ch of beg ch-2, fasten off. Top: Round 1: Start with a magic circle, with 6 sc in circle. Join.

Abbreviations:




Round 2: 2 sc in each sc around (12 sc) Round 3: [1 sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc] 12 times (18 sc) Round 4: [1 sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc] 18 times (24 sc) Skip 1 sc [sl st in next sc, skip 1 sc, 5 dc in next sc, skip 1 sc] 6 times. Join with a sl st to the last st of previous round. Fasten off and weave in ends. Assemble Booties: Set flower on top of sole so that one petal is centered over the toe. Thread the same color yarn through a tapestry needle and folding the petals over the outer edge of the sole, sew 5 petals of the flower to the sole creating the top of the shoe. Be sure to sew it very securely, particularly the edges.



US – J, 6.00 mm hook 330-610 total yds Worsted Weight Yarn (Lion

Brand Wool-Ease Worsted shown) Gauge: 9 sts x 5 rows = 3″ in

dc Sizes in the pattern are written

as 6mths(12mths, 18mths, 2T, 3T) – when only one number is shown it applies to all sizes.

MATERIAL

5.2.3: Eloise Baby Sweater By: Tamara Kelly

Pattern: Starting with the skirt, which is worked sideways. Row 1: With Color A, FDC 27(29, 31, 33, 35). Turn. Row 2: CSDC, dc in the next 26(28, 30, 32, 34) sts. Turn. Remove the hook from the loop (place st marker in loop if desired so it doesn’t pull back through). (27(29, 31, 33, 35) sts) Row 3: With Color B, join to BLO of 3rd st of previous row with a sl st. Working in BLO, sl st in the same st and next st, sc in the next 7(7, 8, 8, 10) sts, hdc in the next 7(9, 9, 10, 10) sts, dc in the last 9(9, 10, 11, 11) sts. Turn. (25(27, 29, 31, 33) sts)

Color A: 250-450 yds (Oxford Grey shown) Color B: 20-40 yds (Cranberry shown) Color C: 20-40 yds (Paprika shown) Color D: 20-40 yds (Avocado shown) Color E: 20-40 yds (Blue Heather shown) 2+

Buttons – 7/8″ (22mm)

http://www.mooglyblog.com/eloise-baby-sweater/



Row 4: CSDC, dc in the next 8(8, 9, 10, 10) sts, hdc in the next 7(9, 9, 10, 10) sts, sc in the next 7(7, 8, 8, 10) sts, sl st in the next st (first sl st of previous row remains unworked). Break yarn B. Turn. (24(26, 28, 30, 32) sts) Row 5: Pick up loop of A from Row 2, CSDC, dc in the BLO of next and each st to end. Turn. (27(29. 31, 33, 35) sts) Row 6: CSDC, dc in the next 26(28, 30, 32, 34) sts. Turn. Remove the hook from the loop. (27(29, 31, 33, 35) sts) Row 7: With Color C, join to BLO of 3rd st of previous row with a sl st. Working in BLO, sl st in the same st and next st, sc in the next 7(7, 8, 8, 10) sts, hdc in the next 7(9, 9, 10, 10) sts, dc in the last 9(9, 10, 11, 11) sts. Turn. (25(27, 29, 31, 33) sts) Row 8: CSDC, dc in the next 8(8, 9, 10, 10) sts, hdc in the next 7(9, 9, 10, 10) sts, sc in the next 7(7, 8, 8, 10) sts, sl st in the next st. Break yarn C. Turn. (24(26, 28, 30, 32) sts) Row 9: Pick up loop of A from Row 6, CSDC, dc in the BLO of next and each st to end. Turn. (27(29, 31, 33, 35) sts) Row 10: CSDC, dc in the next 26(28, 30, 32, 34) sts. Turn. Remove the hook from the loop. (27(29, 31, 33, 35) sts) Row 11: 54(58, 62, 66, 70): Repeat Rows 7 – 10, alternating between colors B through E for the Row 7-8 repeats. Do not break Color A. NOTE: For 6mths there will be 13 color stripes, for 12mths there will be 14 color stripes, for 18mths there will be 15 color stripes, for 2T there will be 16 color stripes, and for 3T there will be 17 color stripes. Moving to the yoke: turn the skirt 90° so that you are crocheting across the all-Color A, or shorter edge of the skirt – this side becomes the top of the skirt. The WS is facing you. Eloise Baby Sweater: free pattern in 0-6 mths, 6-12 mths, 18mths, 2T and 3T! Row 1: Continuing with Color A, ch 1, sc 64(68, 72, 76, 80) evenly across. Turn. (64(68, 72, 76, 80) sts) Row 2: CSDC, dc in the next 17(18, 19, 20, 21) sts, ch 20(20, 22, 22, 22), skip 5 sts, dc in the next 25(27, 29, 31, 33) sts, ch 20(20, 22, 22, 22), skip 5 sts, dc in the last 11(12, 13, 14, 15) sts. Turn. (54 dc and 40 ch(58 dc and 40 ch, 62 dc and 44 ch, 66 dc and 44 ch, 70 dc and 44 ch)) Row 3: CSDC, dc in the next 8(9, 10, 11, 12) sts, dc3tog, dc in the next 18(18, 20, 20, 20) sts, dc3tog, dc in the next 21(23, 25, 27, 29) sts, dc3tog, dc in the next 18(18, 20, 20, 20) sts, dc3tog, dc in the last 16(17, 18, 19, 20) sts. Turn. (86(90, 98, 102, 106) sts)



Row 4: CSDC, dc in the next 14(15, 16, 17, 18) sts, dc3tog, dc in the next 16(16, 18, 18, 18) sts, dc3tog, dc in the next 19(21, 23, 25, 27) sts, dc3tog, dc in the next 16(16, 18, 18, 18) sts, dc3tog, dc in the last 8(9, 10, 11, 12) sts. Turn. (78(82, 90, 94, 98) sts) Row 5: CSDC, dc in the next 6(7, 8, 9, 10) sts, dc3tog, dc in the next 14(14, 16, 16, 16) sts, dc3tog, dc in the next 17(19, 21, 23, 25) sts, dc3tog, dc in the next 14(14, 16, 16, 16) sts, dc3tog, dc in the last 14(15, 16, 17, 18) sts. Turn. (70(74, 82, 86, 90) sts) Row 6: CSDC, dc in the next 12(13, 14, 15, 16) sts, dc3tog, dc in the next 12(12, 14, 14, 14) sts, dc3tog, dc in the next 15(17, 19, 21, 23) sts, dc3tog, dc in the next 12(12, 14, 14, 14) sts, dc3tog, dc in the last 6(7, 8, 9, 10) sts. Do NOT turn. Break yarn. (62(66, 74, 78, 82) sts) Row 7: With Color C (or accent color of your choice), join with sl st to 1st st of previous row (since you didn’t turn, this is NOT where you finished the previous row, but the actual first st of the previous row). Sc in the first 11(12, 13, 14, 15) sts, sc3tog, sc in the next 10(10, 12, 12, 12) sts, sc3tog, sc in the next 13(15, 17, 19, 21) sts, sc3tog, sc in the next 10(10, 12, 12, 12) sts, sc3tog, sc in the last 5(6, 7, 8, 9) sts. Break yarn. (54(58, 66, 70, 74) sts) NOTE: If the neckline seems to large here for the larger sizes, turn and work another row of sc sts, following the decreasing pattern established. Make the sleeves: Sleeves are crocheted right onto the yoke. Though they are crocheted in the round, after the join at the end of each round, you’ll turn – so that even numbered rows will be worked from the “inside” of the sleeve. Round 1: With sweater RS out, use Color A and CSDC to join to center of armpit. Dc 32(32, 34, 34, 34) sts evenly around armhole. Join to 1st st with sl st. Turn. (32(32, 34, 34, 34) sts) SIZE 3T ONLY: CSDC, dc in next st and each st around. Turn. (34 sts) Then proceed as written. Round 2: Ch 2, dc2tog, dc in each remaining st around. Join to 1st st with sl st. Turn. (31(31, 33, 33, 33) sts) Round 3 – 11: Repeat Round 2, decreasing 1 st per round, so that at the end of Round 11 you’ll have 22(22, 24, 24, 24) sts. For size 0-6 mths: Break yarn and go to Cuff Instructions below. For size 6-12 mths, 18 mths, 2T and 3T: go to Round 12 below. Round 12: CSDC, dc in next st and each st around, join to 1st st with a sl st. Turn. (22(22, 24, 24) sts)



For size 6-12 mths: Repeat Round 12 1x. Break yarn, go to Cuff Instructions below. For size 18 mths: Repeat Round 12 2x. Break yarn, go to Cuff Instructions below. For sizes 2T and 3T: Repeat Round 12 3x. Break yarn, go to Cuff Instructions below. Cuff Instructions: To be added to the end of each sleeve, both sizes Eloise Baby Sweater: free pattern in 0-6 mths, 6-12 mths, 18mths, 2T and 3T! Round 1: With Color B, from RS of sleeve, join to BLO of joining st of previous row with a sl st. Ch 1, sc in BLO of each st around. (22(22, 24, 24, 24 sts) Break yarn, seamless join in 2nd st of the round. Round 2: With Color C, repeat previous round. (22(22, 24, 24, 24 sts) Round 3: With Color D, repeat previous round. (22(22, 24, 24, 24 sts) Round 4: With Color E, repeat previous round. (22(22, 24, 24, 24 sts) Weave in ends. Edge the front opening and neckline. With Color A, join to RS front opening at the bottom of the skirt with a sl st. Sc evenly up the side, sc in the BLO around the neck opening, and sc down the other side, leaving the bottom of the skirt un-edged. Add Buttons. Sew buttons to sweater so that they fit between dc sts of the yoke, as shown. As opposed to fixed button holes, this will allow for a more adjustable fit!



Crochet Hook: H/8 or 5 mm hook Yarn Weight: (4) Medium Weight/Worsted

Weight and Aran (16-20 stitches to 4 inches) Size H hook Yarn needle Scissors

MATERIAL

5.2.4: Crocheted Teething Rings By: Jaime Maraia from Crochet Dynamite

Pattern: Links: ch 16 Round 1: sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in each ch across (15 st) Round 2: ch 1, sc in each st across (15 st) Fasten off. Leave a 12" tail. Fold the link in half lengthwise (like a hot dog) and whipstitch the sides together. Curl the link into a circle and whipstitch the ends together to finish the circle. Weave in the ends. Make 7 more, forming them into a chain by linking them together before whipstitching the ends closed. Tie: Using all 4 colors (or 4 strands of a single color) chain 65. Fasten off. Trim the tails to 1/2" to make tassels. Tie the tie through the top loop of the links (you don't have to tie it in a bow, but it looks cute if you do!)

Color A: 250-450 yds (Oxford Grey

shown) Color B: 20-40 yds (Cranberry shown) Color C: 20-40 yds (Paprika shown) Color D: 20-40 yds (Avocado shown)

http://www.crochetdynamite.com/2013/12/katys-teething-rings.html



K Hook

Bernet Baby Bouncle Front Post Double Crochet Back Post Double Crochet

MATERIAL

5.2.5: Baby Snuggle and Hat set By: Vallieskids

v

Pattern: Round 1: ch3, 11 dc in 3rd ch from hook join to top of first dc (11dc) Round 2: ch2, (does not count as dc now and throughout) dc in same st as joining, 2dc in next st, *dc in next st, 2dc in next st repeat from * around, join to top of first dc Round 3: ch2, dc in same st and in next dc, 2dc in next st, *dc in next 2sts, 2dc in next st, repeat from * around, join Round 4: ch2, dc in same st, dc in next 2sts, 2dc in next st, * dc in next 3sts, 2dc in next st, repeat from * around Round 5: ch2, dc in same st, dc in next 3sts, 2dc in next st, * dc in next 4sts, 2dc in next st, repeat from * around Round 6: ch2, dc in same st, dc in next 4sts, 2dc in next st, * dc in next 5sts, 2dc in next st, repeat from * around Round 7-23: ch2 dc in same sta and in each st around. (mine is about 17 inches long here) Round 24-26: ch1, sc in same st and in each st around Fasten off and weave in ends

Abbreviations: ch st chain stitch dc double crochet hdc half-double crochet sc single crochet sl st slip stitch trc triple crochet yo yarn over tr treble crochet sp space sk skip pat st pattern stitch

http://vallieskids.blogspot.in/2009/08/baby-snuggle-and-hat-set.html



Hat: Round 1: ch3, 7dc in 3rd ch from hook, join to top of first dc, (7dc) Round 2: ch2,(does not count as first dc until noted) dc in same st and in each st around, join Round 3: ch2,dc in same st, 2dc in next st, * dc in next 2sts, 2dc in next st, repeat from * Round 4-15: ch2, dc in same st and in each st around Round 16: ch2, dc in same st and next st, 2dc in next st, * dc in next 2sts, 2dc in next st, repeat from * around Round 17: ch2, dc in same st and in next 2sts, 2dc in next st, *dc in next 3sts, 2dc in next st, repeat from * around Round 18: ch2, dc in same st and in next 3sts, 2dc in next st, * dc in next 4sts, 2dc in next st, repeat from * around Round 19: ch2, dc in same st and in next 4sts, 2dc in next st, * dc in next 5sts, 2dc in next st, repeat from * around Round 20: ch2, dc in same st and in next 5sts, 2dc in next st, * dc in next 6sts, 2dc in next st, repeat from * around Round 21: ch2, dc in same st and in next 6sts, 2dc in next st, * dc in next 7sts, 2dc in next st, repeat from * around Round 22: ch2, dc in same st and in each st around Round 23 and 24: ch2 (now counts as first st) * FPDC in next st, BPDC in next st, repeat from * around Join, fasten off and weave in ends. Add pom pom to end of hat.



1 ball 3540 Currant Crochet Hook: 5.5mm [US I-9] Yarn needle GAUGE: Round 1 of Hat = 1½” across;

Rounds 1 and 2 of Hat = 2½” across CHECK YOUR GAUGE. Use any

size hook to obtain the gauge.

MATERIAL

5.3: Patterns for Hat 5.3.1: Charleston Cloche

By: Kim Guzman

Beg-Cl = Beginning Cluster (first leg) Yo, insert hook in indicated st and draw up a loop, yo, and draw through 2 loops on hook; (2nd leg) yo, insert hook

in next st and draw up a loop, yo and draw through 2 loops on hook, yo and draw through 3 remaining loops on hook. Cl = Cluster

Yo, insert hook in indicated st and draw up a loop, yo and draw through 2 loops on hook, yo, insert hook in same st and draw up a loop, [yo and draw through 2 loops on hook] twice (2 loops remain on hook). loops remain on hook; (2nd leg) Cl in next indicated st (3 loops remain on hook), yo and draw through all 3 loops on hook. 3Cltog = 3 Cluster Together – (first leg) Cl in indicated st (2 loops remain on hook; (2nd leg) Cl in next indicated st (3 loops remain on hook); (3rd leg) Cl in next indicated st (4 loops remain on hook), yo and draw through all 4 loops on hook. NOTE: Hat and flower are worked with right side facing at all times. Do not turn at the end of rounds.

http://www.redheart.com/files/patterns/pdf/SN0146.pdf



HAT: Ch 3; slip st in first ch from hook to form a ring. Round 1 (Right Side): Ch 3 (counts as dc here and throughout), 10 dc in ring; join with slip st in top of beginning ch—11 dc. Round 2: Ch 3, dc in same st as join, 2 dc in each remaining dc around; join with slip st in top of beginning ch—22 dc. Round 3: Ch 2, Beg-Cl working first leg in same st as join, ch 3, Cl in back bar of 3rd ch from hook (horizontal Cl made – 2 loops remain on hook), Cl in same st as 2nd leg of previous Beg-Cl (3 loops remain on hook), Cl in next dc, yo and draw through all 4 loops on hook, *ch 3; 3Cltog working first leg in back bar of 3rd ch from hook, 2nd leg in same dc as last leg of previous Cl, 3rd leg in next dc; repeat from * 18 more times, ch 3; 3Cltog working first leg in back bar of 3rd ch from hook, 2nd leg in same dc as last leg of previous Cl, and 3rd leg in slip st join of previous round; ch 3, Beg-Cl in back bar of 3rd ch from hook; join with slip st in base of first horizontal Cl—22 horizontal Cl. Rounds 4–12: Ch 2, 2Cltog working first leg in same st as join and 2nd leg at base of next horizontal Cl, *ch 3; 3Cltog working first leg in back bar of 3rd ch from hook, 2nd leg in same st as last leg of previous Cl, and 3rd leg in base of next horizontal Cl; repeat from * 18 more times, ch 3; 3Cltog working first leg in back bar of 3rd ch from hook, 2nd leg in same st as last leg of previous Cl, and 3rd leg in slip st join of previous round, ch 3, Beg-Cl in back bar of 3rd ch from hook; join with slip st in base of first horizontal Cl—22 horizontal Cl. Fasten off. FLOWER: Ch 3; slip st in first ch to form a ring. Round 1:[Sc in ring, ch 3] 6 times; join with slip st in first ch-3 space—6 sc and 6 ch-3 spaces.

2Cltog = 2 Cluster Together – (first leg) Cl in indicated st (2 loops remain on hook; (2nd leg) Cl in next indicated st (3 loops remain on hook), yo and draw through all 3 loops on hook. 3Cltog = 3 Cluster Together – (first leg) Cl in indicated st (2 loops remain on hook; (2nd leg) Cl in next indicated st (3 loops remain on hook); (3rd leg) Cl in next indicated st (4 loops remain on hook), yo and draw through all 4 loops on hook. NOTE: Hat and flower are worked with right side facing at all times. Do not turn at the end of rounds.



Round 2: Ch 1, 5 sc in each ch-3 space around; join with slip st in first sc—6 petals. Round 3: Working behind the petals of Round 2, [slip st around post of next sc of Round 1, ch 3] 6 times; join with slip st in first ch-3 space. Round 4: Ch 1, (sc, hdc, 3 dc, hdc, sc) in each ch-3 space around; join with slip st in first sc—6 petals. Round 5: Working behind petals of Round 4, ch 5, [skip next sc of Round 4, slip st around post of next sc of Round 4, ch 5] 5 times; join with slip st in first ch-5 space. Round 6: Ch 1, (sc, hdc, 5 dc, hdc, sc) in each ch-5 space around; join with slip st in first sc—6 petals. Fasten off. FINISHING Fold back brim. Using photograph as a guide, sew flower to hat. Weave in ends.



Knitting Needle Size: 11 or 8 mm Yarn Weight: (5)

Bulky/Chunky (12-15 stitches for 4 inches)

5 skeins 12 ply cashmere. For this scarf I used Jade Sapphire’s amazing 12-ply Cashmere in color “Green Tea”, you will need 300 yards total to complete the scarf. US size 11 needles (or size required to get gauge)

4.5 stitches per inch in rib pattern, slightly stretched

Finished measurements:

48-inches long by approximately 8-inches wide

MATERIAL

5.3.2: Knit Layered Scarf By: The Purl Bee from purlbee.com

Pattern: Cast on 39 stitches. K2, p2, repeat to last 3 stitches, k2, p1. Repeat this row. That’s it! Bind off in stitch pattern. Sew in ends, wash gently by hand, block and let air dry.

http://www.allfreeknitting.com/Knit-Scarves/easy-mistake-stitch-scarf



FINISHED MEASUREMENTS Hat measures approximately 21"/53.5cm circumference (at band) MATERIALS Caron International's Simply Soft (100% acrylic; 6 oz/170 g, 315 yds/288 m skein): 4 oz Yarn needle GAUGE In single crochet worked in the round, 15 sts and 14 rows = 4"/10cm STITCHES USED Chain (ch), single crochet (sc), slip stitch (sl st)

MATERIAL

5.3.3: Elegant Hat By: The Purl Bee from purlbee.com

HAT: Ch 2. Round 1 (RS): Work 4 sc in 2nd ch from hook; do not join and do not turn—4 sc. Round 2: Work 2 sc in each sc around—8 sc. Round 3: Work 2 sc in each sc around—16 sc. Round 4: [Sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc] 8 times—24 sc. Round 5: [Sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc] 8 times—32 sc.

rev sc (reverse single crochet): Work

single crochet in opposite direction by inserting hook in next stitch (to the right if right-handed,and to the left if left-handed), yarn over and draw up a loop, yarn over and draw through both loops on hook. NOTES 1. Hat is worked in continuous rounds, with RS facing throughout. Do not turn and do not join

at the end of rounds, unless otherwiseinstructed. Place a marker to indicate the end of the round and move the marker up as work progresses.

2. Increases are staggered, to produce a rounder, less hexagonal shape. 3. To reduce finishing time, weave in ends as work progresses.

http://www.allfreeknitting.com/Knit-Scarves/easy-mistake-stitch-scarf



Round 6: Sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc, [sc in next 7 sc, 2 sc in next sc] 3 times, sc in next 6 sc—36 sc. Round 7: Sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc, [sc in next 8 sc, 2 sc innext sc] 3 times, sc in next 4 sc—40 sc. Round 8: Sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc, [sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in nextsc] 7 times, sc in last 3 sc—48 sc. Round 9: Sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc in next sc, [sc in next 11 sc, 2 sc in next sc] 3 times, sc in next 6 sc—52 sc. Round 10: Sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc, [sc in next 12 sc, 2 sc in next sc] 3 times, sc in next 10 sc—56 sc. Round 11: Sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc, [sc in next 6 sc next sc] 7 times, sc in next 2 sc—64 sc. Round 12: Sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc, [sc in next 7 sc, 2 sc in next sc] 7 times, sc in next 6 sc—72 sc. Round 13: Sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc in next sc, [sc in next 8 sc, 2 sc in next sc] 7 times, sc in next 3 sc—80 sc. Rounds 14–25: Sc in each sc around. Sl st in next st. Band Base Note: The band base rounds are joined with sl st at the end of each round. Rounds 26–28: Ch 1, working in back loops only, sc in each sc around; join with sl st in first sc. Round 29: Ch 1, sc in each sc around; join with sl st in first sc. Brim Note: Resume working in continuous rounds. Do not join at the end of rounds. Round 30: Sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc, [sc in next 9 sc, 2 sc in next sc] 7 times, sc in next 7 sc—88 sc. Round 31: Sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc in next sc, [sc in next 10 sc, 2 sc in next sc] 7 times, sc in next 5 sc—96 sc. Rounds 32 and 33: Sc in each sc around. Sl st in next st. Fasten off. BAND With RS facing, join yarn with sl st in free front loop of any sc in Round 25, ch 1, rev sc in each free front loop around; join with sl st in first sc. Repeat this process, working rev sc in free front loops of Rounds 26 and 27.



Crochet Hook: H/8 or 5 mm hook Yarn Weight: (4) Medium

Weight/Worsted Weight and Aran (16-20 stitches to 4 inches) MATERIALS Patons Canadiana (100 g/3.5 oz;220

m/241 yds) Main Color (MC) Dark Grey Mix (00312) Size 5 mm (U.S. H/8) crochet hook or size

needed to obtain tension. 2 buttons. One size to fit average woman's head. GAUGE 14 sc and 17 rows = 4" [10 cm].

MATERIAL

5.4.4: Ice Queen Cap By: Patons

Pattern:

Round 1: Ch 3. 7 dc in ring. Join with sl st to top of ch 3. 8 dc. Round 2: Ch 2. 2 dcfp around each dc around. Join with sl st to first dcfp. 16 sts. Round 3: Ch 2. *1 dcfp around each of next 2 dcfp. 1 dc in sp between last dcfp and next dcfp. Rep from * around. Join with sl st to first dcfp. 24 sts. Round 4: Ch 2. *1 dcfp around next dcfp. 1 dc in sp between last dcfp and next dcfp. 1 dcfp around next dcfp. 1 dc in next dc. Rep from * around. Join with sl st to first dcfp. 32 sts. Round 5: Ch 2. *1 dcfp around next dcfp. 1 dc in next dc. 1 dcfp around next dcfp. 2 dc in next dc. Rep from * around. Join with sl st to first dcfp. 40 sts. Round 6: Ch 2. *1 dcfp around next dcfp. 2 dc in next dc. 1 dcfp around next dcfp. 1 dc in each of next 2 dc. Rep from * around. Join with sl st tofirst dcfp. 48 sts. Round 7: Ch 2. *1 dcfp around next dcfp. 1 dc in each of next 2 dc. 1 dcfp around next dcfp. 2 dc in next dc. 1 dc in next dc. Rep from * around. Join with sl st to first dcfp. 56 sts.

Note: Ch 2 at beg of Round does not count

as st. Beg at crown, ch 3. Join with sl st to

first ch to form a ring.

http://www.allfreecrochet.com/Caps-With-Brims/Ice-Queen-Cap-Patons



Round 8: Ch 2. *1 dcfp around next dcfp. 2 dc in next dc. 1 dc in next dc. 1 dcfp around next dcfp. 1 dc in each of next 3 dc. Rep from * around. Join with sl st to first dcfp. 64 sts. Round 9: Ch 1. 1 sc in each st around. Join with sl st to first sc. 64 sc. Round 10: Ch 2. *3 dcfp around dcfp 2 rows below. Miss next sc. 1 dc in next sc. Miss next sc. Rep from * 15 times more. Join with sl st to firstdcfp. Round 11: As 9th Round. Round 12: Sl st in next st. Ch 3 (counts as dc). Miss next sc. 3 dcfp around dc 2 rows below. Miss next sc. *1 dc in next sc. Miss next sc. 3 dcfparound dc 2 rows below. Miss next sc. Rep from * 14 times more. Join with sl st to top of ch 3. Round 13: As 9th Round. Round 14: Sl st in each of next 2 sts. Ch 3 (counts as dc). Miss next sc. 3 dcfp around dc 2 rows below. Miss next sc. *1 dc in next sc. Miss next sc. 3 dcfp around dc 2 rows below . Miss next sc. Rep from * 14 timesmore. Join with sl st to top of ch 3. Rep 13th and 14th Rounds until work from beg measures 8" [20.5 cm], ending on a 14th Round. Do not fasten off. Band: 1st and 2nd Rounds: Ch 1. 1 sc in each st around. Join with sl st to first sc. 64 sc. Do not fasten off. Brim: Beg working in rows: 1st row: Ch 1. 1 sc in each of next 46 sc. Turn. Leave rem sc unworked. 2nd to 10th rows: Ch 1. 1 sc in each sc to end of row. Turn. Fasten off at end of last row.

FINISHING Fold Brim of Hat at corners and sew into place with button on each side as shown in photo.



Lion Brand Cotton Ease yarn in Seaspray, Snow, and Stone. I crochet hook Scissors Tapestry Needle

MATERIAL

5.4 Patterns for Blankets: 5.4.1: Granny square baby blanket

Pattern: Round 1: Using your first color, ch 3. 2 dc into the first ch, ch 1. *dc cluster into the same stitch, ch 1* 3 times. Sl st to the top of the beginning ch. You will have four dc clusters and 4 ch 1 spaces at the endof this round. Round 2: Sl st in the next two stitches and into ch 1 space. Ch 2, 2 dc into the same ch 1 space. Ch 1, dc cluster into the same ch 1 space. *dc cluster, ch 1, dc cluster in the next ch 1 space* around. Sl st to the top of the first ch 2. At the end of this round you should have 8 dc clusters and 4 ch 1 spaces. Round 3: Sl st in the next two stitches and into the ch 1 space. Ch 2, 2 dc into the same ch 1 space. Ch 1, dc cluster into the same ch 1 space. Dc cluster into the space between the clusters on the previous round. *dc cluster, ch 1, dc cluster in the next ch 1 space. dc cluster into the space between the clusters on the previous row* around. Sl st to the top of the first ch 2. At the end of this round you should shave 12 dc clusters and 4 ch 1 spaces.

Abbreviations:




For all of the remaining rounds, you will be continuing in the same manner. You will work two double crochet clusters into each corner, with a ch 1 in between them. You will work 1 dc cluster into each space between the clusters in the previous round. When it’s time to change colors, cut your first color and weave ends. Join your second color in any of the ch 1 spaces. You will then continue the same pattern with the next color. For the blanket is shown above, you will do: 6 rounds of Seaspray 2 rounds of Snow 2 rounds of Stone 2 rounds of Seaspray 2 rounds of Snow 2 rounds of Stone 2 rounds of Seaspray Border: Round 1: hdc around the entire blanket working 3 hdc into each corner stitch. Cut yarn and weave ends. Round 2: You’ll now be working a picot edging. Join white yarn using a slip stitch *sc in the next five stitches, ch 3, hdc in the first chain* around. I like to have a picot in each corner so I fiddle with the stitches between picots to make that happen. I used to have a cow if the spaces weren’t exact, but I’ve come to realize that once the blanket is finished, you won’t even notice.



Crochet Hook: H/8 or 5 mm hook

Yarn Weight: (4) Medium Weight/Worsted Weight and Aran (16-20 stitches to 4 inches)

Measurements: Finished size: 48 ins x 54 ins

Materials:

Simply Soft (170 g/6. oz;288 m/315 yds)

Contrast A Dark Sage (9707) - 3

Simply Soft Paints (113 g/4. oz;190 m/208 yds)

Contrast B Spring Break (0004) - 7

Size H (5 mm) crochet hook.

Yarn needle.

GAUGE A swatch worked in stitch pattern across 13 sts for 12 rows is equal to approximately 4”

MATERIAL

5.4.2: Steamwave Throw By: Kim Guzman for Caron

THROW: Row 1 (RS): With CA, ch 167, sc in second ch from hook and each rem ch across, turn—166 sc. Row 2: Ch 1, sc in each sc across, changing to CB, turn. Row 3: With CB, ch 2 (counts as first dc throughout), sk first sc, dc, hdc, sc, * ch 2, sk 2 sc, sc, hdc, 2 dc, 2 tr, 2 dc, hdc, sc, rep from * to within last 6 sc, ch 2, sk 2 sc, sc, hdc, 2 dc, turn. Row 4: Ch 2, sk first dc, dc, hdc, sc, * ch 2, sk 2 ch, sc, hdc, 2 dc, 2 tr, 2 dc, hdc, sc, rep from * to within last 6 sts, ch 2, sk 2 ch, sc, hdc, 2 dc, changing to CA, turn.

Abbreviations:


http://www.allfreecrochetafghanpatterns.com/Throw-Patterns/Streamwave-Throw



Row 5: With CA, ch 1, 4 sc, * working around ch-2 sps of previous 2 rows, dc in second skipped sc 3 rows below, working around ch-2 sps of previous 2 rows, dc in first skipped sc 3 rows below (2-dc crossed worked), 10 sc, rep from * to within last 6 sts, 2-dc crossed in skipped sc 3 rows below, 4 sc, turn. Row 6: Ch 1, sc in each st across, changing to CB, turn. Row 7: With CB, ch 1, * sc, hdc, 2 dc, 2 tr, 2 dc, hdc, sc, ch 2, sk 2 sc, rep from * to within last 10 sc, sc, hdc, 2 dc, 2 tr, 2 dc, hdc, sc, turn. Row 8: Ch 1, * sc, hdc, 2 dc, 2 tr, 2 dc, hdc, sc, ch 2, sk 2 ch, rep from * to within last 10 sts, sc, hdc, 2 dc, 2 tr, 2 dc, hdc, sc, changing to CA, turn. Row 9: With CA, ch 1, * 10 sc, 2-dc crossed in skipped sc 3 rows below, rep from * to within last 10 sts, 10 sc, turn. Row 10: Ch 1, sc in each st across, changing to CB, turn. Rep Rows 3-10 until a total of 122 rows have been completed from beg. Rep Rows 3-6, do not fasten off CA. Turn to beg working along sides of rows. SIDE TRIM: Row 1: With CA and with WS facing, ch 1, sc evenly along sides of rows, turn. Row 2: Ch 1, sc in each sc across, fasten off. OPPOSITE SIDE TRIM: Row 1: With WS facing, join CA with sl st to begin working along sides of rows of opposite side, ch 1, sc evenly along sides of rows, turn. Row 2: Ch 1, sc in each sc across, fasten off. Weave in all ends carefully.



Crochet Hook: H/8 or 5 mm hook Yarn Weight: (4) Medium

Weight/Worsted Weight and Aran (16-20 stitches to 4 inches)

MATERIAL

5.4.3: Kaleidoscope Afghan By: Kara from Petals to Picots

Pattern: Ch 11. Round 1: 1 dc in 5th ch from hook (cts as 1st V-st), ch 2, V-st in same ch, ch 1, sk next 2, V-st in next, ch 1, sk next 2, [V-st, ch 2, V-st, ch 2, V-st] in last ch; working along opposite side of chain, ch 1, sk 2, V-st in next, ch 1, sk 2, V-st in same ch as 1st st made, ch 2, join in 3rd ch of beginning ch 4, fasten off. Round 2: Join new color in next ch-2 corner, [ch 4, 1 dc (counts as V-st), ch 2, V-st] in same corner, working behind and in the middle of V-st below, dtr2dwn in same chain as next V-st below was made, *V-st in next ch-1sp, dtr2dwn in same chain as next V-st below, rep from * once more, [V-st, ch 2, V-st] in ch-2sp, dtr2dwn in same chain as next V-st below, [V-st, ch 2, V-st] in ch-2sp, dtr2dwn same chain as next V-st below, **V-st in next ch-1sp, dtr2dwn in same chain as next V-st below, rep from ** once more, [V-st, ch 2, V-st] in ch-2sp, dtr2dwn in same chain as next V-st below, join in 3rd ch of beginning ch 4, fasten off. Round 3: Join new color in next ch-2 corner, [ch 4, 1 dc (counts as V-st), ch 2, V-st] in same corner, working behind V-st below, dtr2dwn in same ch-sp as next V-st below was made, *1 dc in space before next dtr, ch 1, 1 dc in space after next dtr, dtr2dwn in same ch-sp as next V-st below was made, rep from * twice more, [V-st, ch 2, V-st] in ch-2sp, dtr2dwn in same ch-sp as next V-st below, 1 dc in space before next dtr, ch 1, 1 dc in space after next dtr, dtr2dwn in same ch-sp as next V-st below, [V-st, ch 2, V-st] dtr2dwn in same ch-sp as next V-st below was made, **1 dc in space before next dtr, ch 1, 1 dc in space after next dtr, dtr2dwn in same ch-sp as next V-st below was

http://www.allfreecrochetafghanpatterns.com/Throw-Patterns/Kaleidoscope-Crochet-Afghan-Pattern



made, rep from ** twice more [V-st, ch 2, V-st] in ch-2sp, dtr2dwn in same ch-sp as next V-st below, 1 dc in space before next dtr, ch 1, 1 dc in space after next dtr, dtr2dwn in same ch-sp as next V-st below, join in 3rd ch of beginning ch 4, fasten off. Round 4: Join new color in next ch-2 corner, [ch 4, 1 dc (counts as V-st), ch 2, V-st] in same corner, working behind V-st below, dtr2dwn in same ch-sp as next V-st below was made, 1 dc in space before next dtr, ch 1, 1 dc in space after next dtr, *dtr2dwn in top of dtr below, 1 dc in space before next dtr, ch 1, 1 dc in space after next dtr, rep from * twice more, dtr2dwn in same ch-sp as next V-st below was made, [V-st, ch 2, V-st] in ch-2sp, dtr2dwn in same ch-sp as next V-st below, 1 dc in space before next dtr, ch 1, 1 dc in space after next dtr, dtr2dwn in top of dtr below,1 dc in space before next dtr, ch 1, 1 dc in space after next dtr, dtr2dwn in same ch-sp as next V-st below was made, [V-st, ch 2, V-st] in ch-2sp, dtr2dwn in same ch-sp as next V-st below, 1 dc in space before next dtr, ch 1, 1 dc in space after next dtr, **dtr2dwn in top of dtr below, 1 dc in space before next dtr, ch 1, 1 dc in space after next dtr, rep from ** twice more, dtr2dwn in same ch-sp as next V-st below was made, [V-st, ch 2, V-st] in ch-2sp, dtr2dwn in same ch-sp as next V-st below, 1 dc in space before next dtr, ch 1, 1 dc in space after next dtr, dtr2dwn in top of dtr below,1 dc in space before next dtr, ch 1, 1 dc in space after next dtr, dtr2dwn in same ch-sp as next V-st below was made, join in 3rd ch of beginning ch 4, fasten off.



Yarn weight Worsted / 10 ply (9 wpi) Hook size 5.0 mm (H) Each square measures 13”

x 13”

MATERIAL

5.4.4: Monet Afghan By: Drew Emborsky

Pattern: Row 1: Ch 47, sc in second ch from hook and in each ch across. (46 sc) Row 2: Ch 1, (sc, 2 dc) in first st, *skip 2 sc, (sc, 2 dc) in next st * across. Sc in last st. Row 3-33: Ch 1, (sc, 2 dc) in each single crochet across ending with a sc in the last st. Row 34: sc in each st across. Do not fasten off. Sc evenly around square working 3 sc in each corner. Fasten off. Join squares together using a simplified Lattice Technique (origin unknown) as follows: Round 1: With contrasting color join with a sc in any corner, work 2 more sc in same st, work 47 sc on each side and work 3 sc in each corner. Join with a slip st. Round 2: Slip st into corner st. Ch1, (sc, ch 4, sc) in same st. (Ch 3, skip 2 sc, sc in next st) around, working (sc, ch 4, sc) in each corner st. Slip st to first sc, fasten off. Lay the squares out in a 3 by 4 pattern. First join squares together to make three long strips with four squares each. Then join the three strips together to create ghan. Join by making a sc in corner loop, ch 3, sc in corresponding loop on opposite square. Ch 3, sc in next loop of first square, ch 3, sc in corresponding loop of opposite square, and so on back and forth.Once joined, edge entire afghan by working three rounds of (sc, ch 3) in each loop.

http://www.ravelry.com/designers/drew-emborsky



Crochet Hook: P/16 or 16 mm hook

Yarn Weight: (6) Super Bulky/Super Chunky (4-11 stitches for 4 inches)

MATERIALS:

RED HEART® Snuggle Bunny™: 4 balls 9802 Bluebird A and 3 balls 9010 Cottontail B

Susan Bates® Crochet Hook: 11.5 mm [US P-16]

GAUGE: 6 dc = 4”; 8 rows = 5”. CHECK YOUR GAUGE. Use any size hook to obtain the gauge. SIZE: Blanket measures 30” x 30” (76 cm x 76 cm)

MATERIAL

5.4.5: Road Trip Baby Blanket By: Drew Emborsky

BLANKET: With A, ch 51.

Row 1: Dc in 4th ch from hook and each remaining ch across – 49 sts.

Row 2: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across, changing to B in last st.

Special Abbreviations: 4-dc Cl (4 double crochet cluster): Yarn over, insert hook in indicated stitch, yarn over and draw up a loop, yarn over and draw through 2 loops on hook; [yarn over, insert hook in same stitch, yarn over and draw up a loop, yarn over and draw through 2 loops on hook] 3 times, yarn over and draw through all 5 loops on hook, ch 1 to close cluster. sc2tog (single crochet 2 stitches together): [Insert hook in next stitch, yarn over and draw up a loop] twice, yarn over and draw through all 3 loops on hook. Notes: To change color, work last stitch of old color to last yarn over. Yarn over with new color and draw through all loops on hook to complete stitch. Proceed with new color. Carry old color loosely up side of piece until next needed.

http://www.ravelry.com/designers/drew-emborsky



Row 3: Ch 1, turn, sc in next 8 sts, 4-dc Cl in next st, [sc in next 7 sts, 4-dc Cl in next st] 4 times, sc in next 8 sts.

Row 4: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across, changing to A in last st.

Row 5: Ch 3 (counts as first dc here and throughout), turn, dc in next st and in each remaining st across.

Row 6: Repeat Row 2.

Row 7: Ch 1, turn, sc in next 4 sts, 4-dc Cl in next st, [sc in next 7 sts, 4-dc Cl in next st] 5 times, sc in last 4 sts.



Rows 10-33: Repeat Rows 2-9, 3 times.

Rows 34-38: Repeat Rows 2-6. Fasten off.

Border: Join A with sc in any stitch, sc evenly around entire blanket, working 4 sc in each corner and working over carried sections of yarn alongside.

FINISHING: Weave in ends.



6. Stitch Library

We have given a name for each stitch shown in this stitch library for ease of identification. You may recognize some of these stitches and know them by a different name. This is because there is no overall consensus on what stitches ‘should’ be called, but don’t worry: the main point is learning how to create the stitch. Abbreviations: Crochet patterns use abbreviations as shorthand to describe each stitch, and each type of stitch is abbreviated to a few letters. Many of these abbreviations are the same whatever crochet pattern you follow. Below you will find a list of all the standard abbreviations that are used throughout this book. Some of these abbreviations relate to the actual stitches being worked (such as a treble), and some relate to the way you are working (such as continuing in a certain way).

0 no sts, times or rows to inc increas(e)(ing) be worked for this size mm Millimetres alt Alternate patt Pattern beg Beginning rem remain(ing) ch Chain rep Repeat cm Centimetres RS right side cont Continue sp(s) space(s) dc double crochet ss slip stitch dec decreas(e)(ing) st(s) stitch(es) dtr double treble foll following tr Treble htr half treble ttr triple treble in inches WS wrong side

Special abbreviations: Some crochet patterns use a special group or combination of crochet stitches to create a particular effect. This group of stitches will be given a name within the pattern, and this name will often be abbreviated as well. You will find the special abbreviation detailed with the pattern it relates to, along with instructions for how this stitch or group of stitches should be worked. Before you begin, take time to read this special abbreviation so you fully understand what stitches to work and how to place them for the design you are making. This is



particularly important, as sometimes a special abbreviation on one pattern will appear to be the same as on another pattern, but the actual stitches needed will vary. For example, a group of treble stitches is often called a ‘cluster’. On one pattern, this cluster may consist of 3 trebles and on another pattern it may consist of 6 trebles – but both patterns will list ‘cluster’ in the special abbreviations section. Working the wrong type of cluster will mean the crochet fabric will not turn out as it should.



7. Size Library – conversion chart for crochet hook sizes

To buy various hook size with excellent colour visit LovesArtsCrafts.com


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