Loire Valley (Eyewitness Travel Guides)

8/10/2019 Loire Valley (Eyewitness Travel Guides)

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EYEWITNESS TRAVEL

LOIRE

valley


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LOIRE

VALLEYMAIN CONTRIBUTOR: JACK TRESIDDER

EYEWITNESS TRAVEL


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INTRODUCING THE

LOIRE VALLEY

DISCOVERING THELOIRE VALLEY 10

PUTTING THE LOIREVALLEY ON THE MAP 12

A PORTRAIT OF THE

LOIRE VALLEY 14

THE LOIRE VALLEYTHROUGH THE YEAR 38

THE HISTORY OF THELOIRE VALLEY 44

King Louis XIV portrayed as

Jupiter, conquering La Fronde

CONTENTS

HOW TO USE

THIS GUIDE 6

Statue in La Lorie

Chteau de Saumur, Anjou

PRODUCED BYDuncan Baird PublishersLondon, England

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Front cover main image: Chteau de Chenonceau, Touraine

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BERRY 142

NORTH OFTHE LOIRE 156

LOIRE-ATLANTIQUEAND THE VENDEE 176

SURVIVAL GUIDE

PRACTICAL

INFORMATION 230

TRAVELINFORMATION 240

GENERAL INDEX 248

ACKNOWLEDGMENTS 260

PHRASE BOOK 262

TRAVELLERSNEEDS

WHERE TO STAY 196

WHERE TO EAT 208

SHOPS ANDMARKETS 220

ACTIVITIES IN THELOIRE VALLEY 224

THE LOIRE VALLEYAREA BY AREA

THE LOIRE VALLEYAT A GLANCE 62

ANJOU 64

TOURAINE 88

BLESOIS ANDORLEANAIS 118

The town of Argenton-sur-Creuse

Manoir du Grand-Martigny

Young boys fishing at Pornichetmarina in Loire-Atlantique

Cathdrale St-Etienne,

Bourges

Stained-glass portrait of Agns Sorel


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INTRODUCINGTHELOIRE VALLEY

DISCOVERING THE LOIRE VALLEY 1011

PUTTING THE LOIRE ON THE MAP 1213

A PORTRAIT OF THE LOIRE VALLEY 1437

THE LOIRE VALLEY THROUGH

THE YEAR 3843

THE HISTORY OF THE LOIRE VALLEY 4459


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I N T R O D U C I N G T H E L O I R E V A L L E Y 1 0

T

his fertile land was once theplayground of kings and

their courts, who leftbehind a trail of magnificentchteaux ranging from exuberantRenaissance to Classical grandeur.But the Loire Valley offers morethan just castles. Ancient cloisteredabbeys, majestic cathedrals suchas those at Chart res andBourges, and prosperous modern

cities like Tours are all part of therich heritage of this engaging area.

Picturesque rural Loire, with itsdense forests, misty marshes,windswept coastline and neatvineyards, tempts the visitor offthe beaten track. These twopages give an at-a-glanceflavour of each region, plus aquick guide to where to go and

what to see and do.

BLESOIS AND ORLEANAIS

folie de grandeur

Teeming with wild boarand deer, this area boastssome magnificent royalhunting lodges. (see pp1325),the largest chteau in theLoire, is a truly exuberant,

Disney-like example. (see pp1247)and

(see pp1389)wereonce powerful medievalstrongholds. Now busycommercial towns, theircharming old quarters arefull of interest to the visitor.A casualty of war, Orlans

DISCOVERING THE LOIRE VALLEY

ANJOU

The landscape of Anjou isthreaded with sparklingtributary rivers creating idealroaming and picnic territory.The (see

p68) route curves lazilyaround the south side of the

Loire and is dotted withunspoiled villages andvineyards, while the (see p70) are amagnet for bird-watchers.Fascinating tufa caves, oncetroglodyte dwellings, are nowchic homes and restaurants.Amid lush countryside to

the east lie two must-seesights: (see pp8083)

with its hilltop chteau andthe vast (see pp867), Frances mostcomplete abbey complex.

(see pp727),straddling the River Maine,

Breathtaking chteauarchitecture characterises

Touraine. Be a king for a dayand check out the fairytaleturrets of Renaissancepleasure-palaces such as (see pp967)and (see pp1069), with its striking archedgallery spanning the RiverCher. Head to (see

pp945) for fine ornamentalgardens and ponds.

Regional capital (seepp11217) is a great base forvisiting the chteaux. Its livelyold quarter is crammed withcafs and boutiques, yet stillretains a medieval charm. In

was once the capital of anenormous empire. Its forbid-ding chteau contrasts withtodays modern city, bursting

with culture and energy.

contrast, the areas rollingpastoral terrain attracts loversof outdoor persuits. Cyclingamong these fertile fields willwork up a thirst for the fineChinon and Bourgeuil wines.

Vue Panoramique de Tours en 1789


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D I S C O V E R I N G T H E L O I R E V A L L E Y 1 1

Once the haunt of poets andpainters, today this region isa paradise for anglers andwalkers. The (see p161), with its heather-cloaked hills and stream-linedgorges, is best visited on foot.Cruising the rivers by boat isa fun way to discover pretty

Loire tributaries. Fringed bytrees, the Sarthe glides pastthe (see

p162), while the MayenneValley offers views of hilltopvillages and one of the areasmain towns, (see p160).Along the banks of the Loir,

early churches mark thepilgrim trail. The magicalGothic spires of the cathedral

of (see pp1715)rising up from the surround-ing wheat fields provide anunforgettable sightseeingexperience. Racing enthusiastsshould head for (see

pp1647), which also has apretty historic centre.

busiest port in France, and itsriches were gained from ship-building and a thriving slavetrade. It is a fascinating placeto explore, with many historic

buildings, notably the castleand the Muse des BeauxArts, both bursting withtreasures. The elegantshopping streets also have agood choice of cafs andrestaurants.

Battling constantly againsta sea invasion, the low-lyinglandscape of the (see pp1825)is

strikingly diverse, with a vastrange of wildlife. The wetmarsh, known as VeniseVerte, is ideally explored bybarque, the traditional flat-bottomed boat. Punt throughthe maze of waterways edgedby willows and take a breakat one of the pretty ports.At the Vende coast, wide

sandy beaches and

thundering waves act as amagnet for windsurfers.

EE

Geographically this regionfaces out to the bracingAtlantic Ocean and turns itsback on the chteaux. At the

gateway to the ocean, (see pp19093)was once the

BERRY

This rural area is surprisinglyoverlooked by many tourists. (see pp15053),the regions capital, is anarchitectural gem with amajestic cathedral. Of themany fine old buildings inthis medieval city, PalaisJacques Coeur is the finest.

The region boasts a lush

landscape where remotevillages punctuate undulatinghills, ancient woodlands andlakes, and swathes of wheatfields. Berry is a haven fornature enthusiasts, and atthe (see p146), bird-watchers can find a widevariety of species.

In the eastern corner sits

(see p154), whereyou can enjoy its celebratedwine from dry, zingy whitesto soft, fruity reds made fromvines that grow on chalkylimestone slopes.

has been reconstructed,but retains some delightfulhistoric buildings. Blois hasmany steep cobbled streetsand half-timbered houses.

For a more bucolicexperience, the scenery ofthe (see p141), isscattered with pretty woodsand lakes, while architecturefans will adore the watergates, stone buildings andbridges of (see p122).


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Putting the Loire on the MapThe Loire Valley lies in central France, bordered bythe regions of Brittany, Normandy and the Ile de

France to the north, the Massif Central and Poitou tothe south, Burgundy to the east, and the AtlanticOcean to the west. The river itself, the longestin France, flows for 1,020 km (634 miles) fromits source in the Cvennes to the Atlantic Oceanjust south of Nantes at St-Nazaire. The regioncovers an area of 71,228 sq km (27,500 sq miles)and has a population ofabout 5.7 million.

KEYArea covered by this guide

Ferry service

Airport

Motorway / Motorwaycharacteristics

Major road

Railway line See inside back cover

0 kilometres

0 miles 100

100


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Satellite view of the River Loire and the large fields of its flood-plain

P U T T I N G T H E L O I R E O N T H E M A P 1 3

The Loire as it passes through Tours


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In this central region ofFrance, the people have nei-ther the brisk, sometimesbrusque, demeanour oftheir northern counterparts,nor the excitable nature ofthe southern provinces.They get on peacefully with

their lives, benefiting fromthe prosperity generated notonly by the regions centuriesold popularity with Frenchand foreign visitors alike, but also bya fertile soil and a favourable climate,which rarely succumbs to extremesof heat or cold.

The Loire as a region is far frombeing a cultural and historicalanachronism, although the wealth

of well-preserved historicalmonuments harks back tothe past. Many local peopleare surprisingly proud ofthe nuclear power stationsat Avoine-Chinon and atSt-Laurent-des-Eaux nearBeaugency, both symbols of

the regions role in the tech-nological revolution. Thewell-publicized (and suc-cessful) campaign in the

mid-1980s to have the high-speedTGV train rerouted was based not onany intrinsic dislike of new-fangledschemes, but on alarm at the poten-

tial damage to the bottles of winestored in their underground cellarsclose to the planned track.

The Loire Valley, world-famous for its beautiful chteaux, has

long been described as exemplifying la douceur de vivre: it

combines a leisurely pace of life, a mild climate, mellow wines

and the gentle ways of its inhabitants. The overall impression conveyed

by the region is one of an unostentatious taste for the good things in life.

Cyclist on the Ile de

Noirmoutier causeway

Berry village in the evening

The bridge across the Loire at Blois, one of several historic bridges in the region

A PORTRAIT OF THELOIRE VALLEY


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A P O R T R A I T O F T H E L O I R E V A L L E Y 1 7

region ranks third in France and,although production is on a smallerscale than the famous wine giants ofBordeaux and Burgundy, the quality

and popularity of Loirewines are both increasing.Sancerre and Muscadet areprobably the best known,but others, such as Vouvrayand Bourgueil, are alsomuch in demand.

The restaurants and hotel

dining rooms of the LoireValley take full advantage ofthe excellent produce avail-able locally no wonder so manyParisian families have been attractedto the area. Just as once the nobility ofFrance established their chteaux andstately homes in the area, now wealthy

Parisians are flocking to the LoireValley to buy rsidences secondaires.The influx has been swelled in recentyears with the advent of the TGV,which takes less than an hour to reachthe region from Paris.

A walk along a river bank at Rochefort-sur-Loire, one of many country pursuits to enjoy

business. In the mid-1980s a sciencepark, the Technopole Atlantique, wasbuilt on the banks of the River Erdre,an electronic research institute opened

and the city acquired aWorld Trade Centre (CentreAtlantique du CommerceInternational). Yet here,too, the broad streets andavenues (formerly water-courses) create a feeling ofspaciousness that helps to

perpetuate the mood ofdouceur de vivrebeside thenew economic dynamism.

In the same way, Tours chic confer-ence centre in the heart of the citydoes not seem to have detracted fromthe bustle of streets often throngedwith foreign students. They have

come to learn to speak what isalleged to be the purestFrench in France. Bypure, the expertsmean well-modu-la ted speechdevoid of anystrong accent

a fine symbolfor a populacea dm i r e d f o rbeing pleasantand relaxed.

Sign offering

wine-tastings

Locally grown asparagus

RECENT DEVELOPMENTS

In the west of the region, Nantes hasadapted to changing economic times.The closure of its once-flourishingshipyards has led to a new focus onadvanced technology and international


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From Defence to DecorationOver the centuries, chteaux in the Loire Valleygradually developed from feudal castles, designed

purely as defensive fortresses, into graceful pleasurepalaces. Once the introduction of firearms put an endto the sieges that medieval castles were built to

withstand, comfort and elegance became key statussymbols. Many defensive elements evolved intodecorative features: watchtowers became fairy-taleturrets, moats served as reflecting pools andcrenellations were transformed into ornamentalfriezes. During the Renaissance, Italian craftsmenadded features such as galleries and formal gardens,

and carved decoration became increasingly intricate.


Slate and stone walls

Angers(see pp745)wasbuilt between 1228 and1240 as a mighty clifftopfortress, towering over theRiver Maine. Along itscurtain wall were spaced

17 massive round towers.These would originallyhave been 30 m (98 ft)high before their pepperpot towers were removedin the 16th century.

Slate roof

Chteau dAngers in 1550, before

its towers were lowered

Fortifications with pepperpot towers removed

Postern

Ainay-le-Vieil(see p148), dating fromthe 12th century, contrasts two styles.An octagonal walled fortress, withnine massive towers topped by pepperpot turrets and lit by arrow slits, wasentered through a huge medievalpostern gate across a drawbridge thatcrossed the moat. Inside, however,there is a charming, early 16th-century Renaissance home.

Ainay-le-Vieils delightful living quarters,

hidden inside an octagonal fortress


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Circular tower,formerly defensive

Corbelled walkways,once useful in battle

Chaumont(see p128)stands on the site of a 12th-century fortress,

destroyed in 1465 by Louis XI to punish its owners for disloyalty.The chteau was rebuilt from 1498 to 1510 in the Renaissancestyle. Although it has a defensive appearance, with circular towers,corbelled walkways and a gatehouse, these features have beenlightened with Renaissance decoration.

Chaumonts wallsare

carved with the crossedCs of Charles II dAmboise,whose family rebuiltthe chteau.

Renaissance carvedwindows

Decoratedturret

Decoration on the northfaade of Azay-le-Rideau

Dormer window

Cylindrical tower

Azay-le-Rideau(see pp967), its elegant turrets reflectedin a peaceful lake, was built from 1518 to 1527 and isconsidered one of the best-designed Renaissance chteaux.Its interior staircase, behind an intricately decoratedpediment with three storeys of twin bays, is very striking.

Uss(see p101)was built in 1462 as a battlementedfortress. Later, the walls overlooking the main court-yard were modified during the Renaissance, withdormer windows and pilasters. In the 17th centurythe north wing was replaced by terraced gardens.

Chteau dUss, once a fortress,

now an aristocratic chteau


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Inside the Chteaux

Stone carving

on staircase

The typical Loire Valley Chteau boastedseveral large, lavishly furnished reception

rooms, adorned with luxurious tapestries andpaintings and featuring decorative panellingand ceilings. The main rooms included the

Grand Salon, often with an imposingfireplace, and an elegant dining room.The gallery was a focal point forhost and guests to meet to

discuss the events of the day, admire theviews over the grounds or the paintingsdisplayed on the gallery walls. The

chtelains private rooms, and thosereserved for honoured (particularlyroyal) guests, were grouped in aseparate wings, while servants

were housed in the attics.

Apartmentsin one wingwere for private use.

Grand Escalier(Grand Staircase)

Chairswere often spindly elegantbut uncomfortable. The morecomfortable models with armrestsmight be covered with precioustapestries, as with this one fromCheverny, upholstered in Aubusson.

The Grand Salon, mostlyused for entertaining, had amajestic marble fireplacecarved with the owners coatof arms, emblem or inter-twined initials.

The Grand Escalier,orEscalier dHonneur (grandstaircase), had richly carvedbalustrades and an elaboratelydecorated ceiling, such as thismagnificent Renaissancestaircase at Serrant (see p69).The staircase led to the ownersprivate suites, as well as to stateguest bedrooms and roomsused on special occasions,such as the armoury.

Galleries, like this oneat Beauregard (seepp13031),were whereowners and guests metto converse or to beentertained. They wereoften hung with familyand other portraits.

Main entrance


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The east wingwas reservedfor important guests.

The Salle dArmes, orarmoury, displayed suits ofarmour and weapons besidefine tapestries and furniture.

Dining

Room

Kings Bedroom

Gallery

Kitchen

CHEVERNY

A dignified Classical building in white tufa, Cheverny (seep130)has scarcely been altered since it was built between1620 and 1634. The central section, containing the staircase,is flanked by two symmetrical wings, each consisting of asteep-roofed section and a much larger pavilion with adomed roof. The interior is decorated in 17th-century style.

Kitchenswere in the cellars, orseparately housed. Huge spits forroasting whole carcasses wereworked by elaborate mechanisms.Though often dark, the kitchensgleamed with an array of copperpots and pans, like these atMontgeoffroy (see p71).

The Kings Bedroomwas keptpermanently ready for a royalvisit. Under the droit de gte(right of lodging), chteauowners were bound to provideaccommodation to the king inreturn for a building permit.

This room, at Cheverny (seep130), was used frequently.

State dining rooms, for receiving importantvisitors, were as sumptuously furnished anddecorated as the other main reception rooms.This one in Chaumont (see p128)features

Renaissance furniture.

Chteau roomswerefilled with costly

tapestries, paintingsand fine furniture,and attention was

paid to detail.Decorative fea-

tures, such as thisFrench Limoges

enamel plaque, orintricately carved

wooden panellingwere common. Even the

tiles on stoves that heatedthe huge rooms were often painted.


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The Loire Valley is well-endowed with medievalecclesiastical architecture, ranging from tiny

Romanesque village churches to major Gothic cathe-drals like Chartres and Tours. In the early MiddleAges, the Romanesque style predominated, character-ized by straightforward ground plans, round archesand relatively little decoration. By the 13th century,the rib vaulting and flying buttresses of Gothic archi-tecture had emerged, enabling builders to create taller,lighter churches and cathedrals. The Late Gothic stylein France, often referred to as Flamboyant Gothic,features window tracery with flowing lines licking

upwards like flames.

Churches and Abbeys

LOCATOR MAP

1 Romanesque architecture

9 Gothic architecture

ROMANESQUE FEATURES

Apse

Crossing

Tunnel vault

Transept

Vaulted nave

Pointed bay

Roundedarch

Side aisle

The plan of St-Benot-sur-Loireis typical ofRomanesque architecture,

with its cross shape androunded apse.

A section of La Collgiale deSt-Aignan-sur-ChershowsRomanesque tunnel vaulting.

The vaulted side aisles provideadded support for the high nave.

The round arches ofSt-Aignanare typicallyRomanesque, while the

pointed nave bayspredict the Gothic style.

GOTHIC FEATURES

Apsidalchapel Apse

Nave

Buttress

Side aisle

Flyingbuttresses Triforium

Pointed arch

The plan of ChartresCathedralshows its verywide nave, and its apseringed with chapels.

A section of St-Etiennein Bourges revealsits five divisions with two aisles on eitherside of the nave. The building also has fiveportals rather than the usual three.

Pointed archeswith-stand greater stress andallow large windows, asin the nave at Bourges.


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The west faadeofSt-Gatien in Tours hasrichly carved, Flam-boyant Gothic portals.

The east endof St-Julien cathedralin Le Mans has a complexarrangement of paired flyingbuttresses, each topped by pinnacles.

Steppedtower Rose

Sculptedportal Geometric

window

Apse Flying

buttresses

Pinnacle

The west faade of Notre-Dameat Cunault is simplydecorated. Its machicolations

and lateral towers give it afortified appearance.

The east end of St-Eusicein Selles-sur-Cher, with itsthree apsidal chapels, is

decorated with friezes ofcarved figures.

Bell-tower

Machicolations

Tiered apse

Carved frieze

TympanumApsidalchapel

WHERE TO FIND GOTHIC ARCHITECTURE

TERMS USED IN THISGUIDE

Basilica:Early church with two

aisles and nave lit from above by

clerestory windows.Clerestory:A row of windows

illuminating the nave from above

the aisle roof.

Rose:Circular

window, often

stained glass.

Buttress:Mass of masonry built to

support a wall.

Flying buttress:An

arched support

transmitting thrust of the

weight downwards.

Portal:Monumental entrance to a

building, often decorated.

Tympanum:

Decorated space,

often carved,

over a door or window lintel.

Vault:Arched stone ceiling.

Transept:Two wings of a

cruciform church at right angles

to the nave.

Crossing:Centre of cruciform

where transept crosses nave.

Lantern:Turret with windows to

illuminate interior, often with cupola

(domed ceiling).

Triforium:Middle storey between

arcades and the clerestory.

Apse:Termination of the church,

often rounded.

Ambulatory:Aisle running

round east end, passing behind

the sanctuary.

Arcade:Set of arches and

supporting columns.

Rib vault:Vault supported by

projecting ribs of stone.

Gargoyle:Carved

grotesque figure, often a

water spout.

Tracery:Ornamental carved stone

pattern within Gothic window.

Flamboyant Gothic:Carved stonetracery resembling flames.

Capital:Top of

a column,

usually carved.

Apsidalchapel

WHERE TO FIND ROMANESQUE ARCHITECTURE

1St-Maurice, Angerspp723

2LAbbaye St-Vincent, Nieul-sur-lAutisepp1823

3Notre-Dame, Cunaultp794LAbbaye de Fontevraud

pp867

5St-Maurice, Chinonpp989

6La Collgiale, St-Aignan-sur-Cherp129

7St-Eusice, Selles-sur-Cherpp2458La Basilique de St-Benot-sur-

Loirep140

9St-Etienne, Bourgespp1523

0St-Louis, Bloispp1245

qSt-Hubert, Amboise,p110

wSt-Gatien, Tourspp11617

eLa Trinit, Vendmep123

rNotre-Dame, Chartrespp1725

tSt-Julien, Le Mansp166

yAsnires-sur-Vgrep163


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The valley of the River Loire is wellknown for its agricultural fertility,

and it has also proved to be productiveground for literature, too. Over thecenturies, internationally famouswriters such as Franois Rabelais,the great lyrical poet Pierre deRonsard and the novelists Honor

de Balzac and George Sand havelived close to the mighty river,often drawing inspiration from

their native soil. Perhaps strangely, however, the pure

light that so appeals to visitors to the region does notseem to have inspired as many of the countrysgreatest painters, although Claude Monet spent afruitful period in the peaceful Creuse Valley.

One of the earliest authors towrite in the vulgar Frenchtongue was born in Meung-

sur-Loire in the mid-13thcentury. Jean Chopinel,better known as Jean deMeung, produced the secondpart of the widely translatedand influentialRoman de la

Rose, a long, allegoricalpoem about courtly love.While the first half of thepoem focuses delicately ontwo young lovers and their

affair, Jean de Meungssequel undermines theidealistic conventions ofcourtly love, taking a morecynical view of the world.

During the Hundred YearsWar, a century and a halflater, aristocratic poetCharles, Duc dOrlans was

imprisoned by the Englishfor 25 years. While in prisonhe was able to develop hisconsiderable poetic skills.On his return he made hiscourt at Blois a key literary

centre. He invited famouswriters and poets, amongthem Franois Villon, a15th-century poetas renowned forthe skill of hiswriting as forhis highlydisreputablelifestyle.While he

was in Blois,Villon wona poetrycompetitionwith his work,Je Meurs de Soifauprs de la

Fontaine(I amDying of Thirst bythe Fountain).

Franois

Rabelais, the racy 16th-century satirist and humanist,was born in 1483 nearChinon (see pp989) andeducated at Angers. Hebecame famous throughoutEurope upon the publicationof hisPantagruel(1532) andGargantua(1535), huge,sprawling works full ofbawdy humour and learned

discourse in equal measure.Pierre de Ronsard, born

near Vendme 30 years afterRabelais, was the leadingFrench Renaissance poet,perhaps best known for his

WRITERSlyrical odes and sonnets toCassandre, Hlne andMarie (an Anjou peasantgirl). Court poet to CharlesIX and his sister Margueritede Valois, he lived and died

at St-Cosme Priory nearTours. Ronsard was alsoat the head of the Pliade,

a group of sevenpoets who were

determined torevolutionizeFrench poetrythrough thestudy of theclassics. In

the samegroup was

Joachim duBellay, an

Anjouaristocrat and

keen advocate ofFrench literature.HisDefence and

Illustration of theFrench Language

(1549) was a prose manifestoof the Pliade doctrine.

Another famous native ofthe Loire Valley spearheadeda 17th-century intellectualrevolution. Mathematicianand philosopher RenDescartes, born in Touraineand educated at the Jesuitcollege in La Flche (see

p167), developed a new

method of philosophicalinquiry involving the simul-taneous study of all thesciences. Starting with thecelebrated I think, thereforeI am, he developed the

Writer Marcel Proust, in a late

19th-century portrait by Jacques-

Emile Blanche

Writers and Artists of the Loire Valley

NovelistHonor de Balzac

George Sand, the 19th-

century novelist

Illumination from the Romande la Rose


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ARTISTS

In 1411, the three Limbourgbrothers became courtpainters to the Duc deBerry in Bourges. Hecommissioned them to

paint some 39 miniaturesforLes Trs Riches Heuresdu Duc de Berry. ThisBook of Hours was tobecome the jewel in thedukes fabled manuscriptcollection and remains oneof the finest achievementsof the International Gothicstyle. Some of these intri-cate illustrations depict

scenes from life in theLoire Valley.

Jehan Fouquet, born inTours in about 1420, wasofficially appointed royalpainter in 1474. His portraits

include the famous image ofthe royal mistress AgnsSorel (see p104)posing asthe Virgin Mary.

A century after Fouquetsbirth, Franois I persuaded

the elderly Leonardo daVinci to settle in the manorhouse of Cloux (now calledLe Clos-Luc,see pp11011)near the royal chteau ofAmboise. Aged 65, Leonardowas no longer actively paint-ing, although he is known tohave made some sketches ofcourt life which have notsurvived. However, he was

engaged in scientific investi-gations and inventions, theresults of which can be seenin a museum in the base-ment of the chteau.

At about the time ofLeonardos death in 1519,Franois Clouet was born in

Exactly a century later, theImpressionist painter ClaudeMonet spent several weeksin the village of Fresselines

in the Creuse Valley, paint-ing the river as it passedthrough a narrow gorge

(see p147). One of thesecanvases,Le Pont deVervit, now hangs in theMuse Marmottan in Paris.

Henri Rousseau, thequintessential nave painter,was born in the town ofLaval in 1844. Although henever left France, his best-known works are stylizeddepictions of lush jungles,

home to all manner ofwild animals. Part of thechteau in Laval has beenconverted into a Museum

of Nave Art (see p160)inhonour of the artist.

rationalist doctrine knownas Cartesianism in his mostfamous work, theDiscourseon Method.

Frances most prolific 19th-century novelist, Honor deBalzac, often referred to hisnative Touraine as hisfavourite province. Tours,Saumur and the Chteau deSach feature as settings forsome of his best-knownnovels, all of which arekeenly observant of 19th-century French mores. Thework of Balzacs contem-porary, George Sand (themasculine pen name ofAurore, Baroness Dudevant),is rooted in the landscapesof her native Berry, whichalso inspired Alain-FourniersmagicalLe Grand Meaulnes,a romantic vision of hischildhood in the region.

The hawthorn hedgesand peaceful villages near

Chartres provided the unfor-gettable setting for the earlypassages of Marcel Proustsimpressive sequence ofnovels,Remembrance ofThings Past. At the mouthof the Loire, the city ofNantes saw the birth, in1826, of the ever-popularJules Verne (see pp1923),whose pioneering works of

science fiction have beenenormously influential.

Tours. He succeeded hisfather, Jean, as court painterto Franois I and produced astring of truly outstandingportraits. His sitters includedFranois I himself, Elizabethof Austria and Mary, Queenof Scots. Franois Clouetsstyle, which was typical ofthe French Renaissance, wasperpetuated by the artistsand artisans in his workshop.

Anjous most celebratedsculptor is David dAngers,who was born in 1788. Hisworks include busts and

medallions of many of themajor historical figures of hisday, including a memorial tothe Marquis de Bonchamps,which can be found in thechurch at St-Florent-le-Vieil(see pp689).

Franois Clouets portrait of

Mary, Queen of Scots

A miniature from LesTrsRiches Heures du Duc du Berry

Henri Rousseau, in a self-portrait

that typifies his nave style


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Themed Tours of the Loire ValleyFor those who wish to travel independently of tourcompanies, or who have a special interest in the

region, themed tours provide an attractive alternative.Local tourist offices produce information on routesvisitors can travel in order to see the best sights ona given theme including wine, churches, chteaux,historical buildings and beautiful botanical gardensand arboretums. Illustrated brochures and tourist mapsdescribing each route, often in languages other thanFrench, are available, and some of the routes aresignposted along the way. Tourist office staff are alsoable to customize a route for your particular needs.

A la Recherche desPlantagentstraces the livesof Henry Plantagenet, his wife,Eleanor of Aquitaine, andtheir sons (see p50).Theevidence of their remarkablelives, including this fortressin Loches, can be seenthroughout the region.

The Route Touristique du Vignoble(Wine Route)guides the traveller throughsome of the regions prettiest wine country,including the Coteaux de la Loire. Furtherinformation is available from the touristoffices in Angers, Nantes and Saumur.

The Route de la Valle des Roistakes motorists to many former royal

residences, such as Azay-le-Rideau,as well as to cathedrals and churchesalong the part of the Loire known asthe Valley of the Kings. Informationis available from tourist officesalong the route.

The Sentier Cyclable du Marais Poitevin is a sign-posted cycle route which takes in the attractions of thesouth Vende, including the Marais Poitevin, to givea selection of the varied sights in this area. Thetourist office at La-Roche-sur-Yon provides details.


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The Route des Parcs et Jardinstakes visitors to Villandry andmany other exquisite chteauxand manor house gardens,contemporary gardens, parks

and arboretums in the region.Contact the tourist office inTours for a brochure.

The Route Jacques Curleads motorists throughsome picturesque townsas well as to memorablechteaux, including theChteau de Maupas andthe Palais Jacques-Curin Bourges (see p151),

the former home of thewealthy merchant whogives the tour its name.Some of the privatechteaux along the routetake paying guests (seepp2001).The tourist officein Bourges provides detailsof the route.

The Route Franois Iexplores the chteaux, such asBeauregard. This magnificent chteau was originallyconstructed as a hunting lodge for Franois I (seep54),who held court in Chambord and Blois duringthe 16th century. Ask at Blois tourist office for details.

KEY

Sentier Cyclable du Marais Poitevin

Route des Parcs et Jardins

A la Recherche des Plantagents

Route Franois I

Route Jacques Cur

Route de la Valle des Rois

Route Touristique du Vignoble

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50


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Walking in the Loire ValleyThe best way to follow the most sensual river inFrance, as Flaubert called it to appreciate the

transformation of the river as it flows through theSologne forests, carves out the Valley of the Kings, andfinally rushes into the ocean is on foot. The GrandeRandonne 3(GR 3) is one of the longest marked walksin France, accompanying the Loire from its source atGerbier de Jonc to its mouth. The route occasionallystrays from the river bank in order to follow the mostpicturesque paths. For walks lasting a few hours, orseveral days, ramblers can follow a part of the GrandeRandonneor try the regions many shorter, often

circular, routes. A Topo-Guide (see p224)is a usefulcompanion for detailed information about your walk.

In the charmingAlpes Mancelles,on the edge of the Parc RgionalNormandie-Maine, there is avariety of walks in the valleys ofthe Sarthe, the Mayenne and theOrne. (IGN 1618 OT)

KEY

Recommended walk

Grande Randonne de Pays

Grande Randonne

The Folies-Siffait,close to Le Cellier, 15km (9 miles) northeastof Nantes, offers a two-hour walk around alabyrinthine park.(IGN 1323)

The ParcNaturelRgional deBrire(see p180)is criss-crossed bypaths that takewalkers through thereeds where thousandsof birds build their

nests. (IGN 83034)

ROUTE MARKERSAll the walking routes are markedwith symbols painted onto trees orrocks along the paths. The differentcolours of the symbols indicate whichkind of route you are taking. A redand white mark denotes a Grande

Randonne(GR) route, yellow and

red are used for a regional route(Grande Randonne de Pays),and local routes (Promenade et

Randonne)are marked in asingle colour (usually yellow).

GrandeRandonne

GrandeRandonne

de PaysPromenade

et Randonne

Straight on

Changedirection

Wrong way

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50


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GRACQ, A WALKING WRITERFor French ramblers, it is difficult to walkbeside the River Loire without thinking ofJulien Gracq (19102007). One of the

most famous contemporary Frenchwriters, Gracq lived in St-Florent-le-Vieil(see p68), a village perched on thesouth bank of the river between Angersand Nantes. Many of his books enticethe reader to explore the Loire Valley onfoot.La Presquleis set inthe Gurande region, and

Les Eaux Etroitesevokes theRiver Evre, which flows intothe Loire at St-Florent.La

Forme dune Villeis aportrait of Nantes, whereGracq was a schoolboy andteacher, and where he metthe Surrealist Andr Breton.

The Grande Randonne 3follows the River Loirealong its entire length.(Topo-Guides 333 & P449)

The Sancerrois(see p155) is crossed by30 short walks (Petites Randonnes)of

between 4 and 26 km (2.516 miles)passing through vineyards that

produce excellent white wine. A bookletis available from local tourist offices.

The Sologneis on the route of the GR 3C, avariation of the GR 3. The path leaves the Loirebetween Gien and Chambord and takes walkerson a five-day journey through this forest (seep141).For shorter walks, see the Topo-Guide P411.


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The importance of wine to life in the LoireValley is immediately apparent. Fields of

vines stretch along both banks of theriver, and roadsides are lined with signsoffering dgustations, or wine tastings (see

p212). Stretching 300 km (186 miles) fromNantes to Pouilly-sur-Loire, the Loire Valleyis the third largest wine-producing area by

volume in France and offers an unprece-dented range of wine styles. The whiteSancerres have an excellent reputation(see p155), as do some of the ros wines

of Anjou, the sweet and sparkling Vou-vrays, the full-bodied reds of Chinon andBourgueil, and the superb, dry mthode champenoise

wines of Saumur. There are many more modest winesavailable, including Muscadet and its younger cousinGros Plant, which are best served chilled.

Winemaking and Vineyards

Caricature of

a wine maker

in costume

The great sweet wineof theCteaux du Layon, Quarts deChaume, is little known outside

France.

Muscadetdesignatedsur liehas greaterflavour because of aspecial ageing process.

ST MARTIN OF TOURS (316397)The Loires most prominent saint, St Martin, Bishop ofTours, was said to have brought three vines from hisnative Hungary and planted them in Touraine. But hisdonkey may have made agreater contribution when itstripped the leaves off vinesnear to where it had beentethered. Those vines laterproved to be the most

productive in the vineyard,and the now standardpractice of pruning vineswas born.

St Martin on his donkey

Traditional vineyard cultivation

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15

KEY

Pays Nantais

Anjou-Saumur

Haut-Poitou

Touraine

Central Vineyards

Pornic

Montaigu

Niort

Chteaubriant

Bonnezeaux

Parthenay

Champigny

Les SablesDOlonne

St-Nazaire

Cholet

Thouars

Savennires

Chaume

Ancenis

La Roche-sur-Yon

Saumur NANTES

ANGERS

A t l a n t i q u e

N171

N160

D949

N165

N137

N16

2

A11

N160

Loire

Lay

Bou

logne

Faye-D-Anjou

N137

N149

N743

D938

N148

Svre-Niortaise

SvreNan

taise

Sarth

e

Th

oue

t

May

enn

e

Nozay


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Couly-Dutheils Clos delEchois a beautiful,bright ruby wine madefrom Cabernet Franc

grapes. The AOC wines ofChinon have an attractive,spicy aroma and age well.

Grape VarietiesThe Muscadet

grape makessimple, dry whites. TheSauvignon Blanc producesgooseberryish, flinty drywhites. Chenin Blanc isused for the dry andmedium Anjou, Vouvrays,Savennires and Saumur,and the famous sweetwhites, Vouvray, Quarts deChaume and Bonnezeaux.

Summery reds are madefrom the Gamay and theCabernet Franc.

Vouvraymakes still andsparkling white wine,

the latter often agedin chalk caves.

The Clos de lEcho vineyard

Good Producers(west to east)

Muscadet: Chteaude la Bretesche,

Marquis de Goulaine,Chteau de Chasseloir.

Anjou(red): Domaine deSte-Anne.Anjou(ros):Robert Lecomte-Girault.

Anjou(dry white): DomaineRichou. Saumur(sparkling):Bouvet-Ladunay, Ackerman-Laurance, Gratien & Meyer.

Saumur(red): Chteau deVilleneuve. Saumur(white):Domaine des Nerleux,

Chteau de St-Florent.Bourgueil(red): Clos duVigneau. Chinon(red):Domaine Rn Couly, Closde la Dioterie. Touraine(white): Domaine JoelDelaunay. Vouvray: Closdu Bourg, Le Haut-Lieu,Chevreau-Vigneau, AlainFerraud, Sylvain Gaudron.Sancerre: Domaine deSt-Pierre, Domaine PaulPrieur. Crmant de Loire

(sparkling white): Chteaude Midouin, Perry deMaleyrand.

Made from Sauvignon Blancgrapes, Pouilly-Fum is known

for its unique, smoky character.

KEY FACTS ABOUT LOIRE WINES

Baug

La Fert-St-Aubin

Romorantin-Lanthenay

Pouilly-sur-Loire

Vierzon

Quincy

Aubigny-sur-Nre

Venome

Montlouis-sur-Loire

Loches Valenay

Blois

Bourgueil

Chinon

Reuilly

Ste-Maure-de-Touraine

Chtellerault

Le Blanc

Gien

Menetou-Salon

Sancerre

ORLEANS

BOURGES

POITIERS

TOURS

LE MANS

Cher

Cher

Vouvray

Chteauroux

N157

N157

N149

A10

A10

N23

A10

D955

N76

Loir

Loir

Loir

e

Vienne

Creuse

Indre

Clain

Auron

N143

A71

N7

N7

N143

Sauldre

Cosne-Cours-sur-Loire

La Charit-sur-Loire


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Orlans, with the imposing Cathdrale Ste-Croix, seen from across the river

Anatural highway to the centre ofFrance, the Loire was travelledfrom the earliest days. The

remains of prehistoric canoes havebeen found along the river; laterevidence shows that Celtic tribes andthe Romans used the river extensivelyas a major trade route. In fact, untilthe development of the railwaynetwork during the 19thcentury, the river was akey transportation route.The growth of the Frenchcanal network from the 17thto 19th centuries, connectingthe port of Nantes with Parisand the north, enhancedthe Loires importance.

The River Loire can be unpredictableand sometimes dangerous, and it wasone of the first rivers that man triedto control. There is evidence thatembankments were being built asearly as the 12th century and workcontinues but the river remainsessentially wild and is still subject to

floods, freezes, shifting sands anddangerous currents. Today,the river is no longer usedfor commerce, except bytour boats giving visitors aunique view of the sur-rounding landscape. Thismakes an exploration of

the River Loire all themore pleasant.

A VIEW OF

THE RIVER LOIRE

See pages 345 See pages 367

Sailing boats, with theirtypical square sails, oftentravelled in groups ofthree or more.

Steamerswould usepowerful winches todip their smoke-stacks,enabling them to passunder low bridges.

Amboises bridgetraverses the river andthe Ile St-Jean.

Chteau dAmboiseisset on a promontoryabove the river, safe frompossible flooding.

VUE DAMBOISEThis painting by Justin Ouvri,now kept in the vaults of the

Muse de la Poste in Paris,was painted in 1847. Thebustling river scene, which

includes several types ofvessel, gives an indicationof the importance of the

River Loire to life and tradein the region, before therailways came to dominatetransportation later in the century.

Barges, known in French aschalands, did not alwayshave sails sometimes theywere rowed.

Everyday objectswere oftendecorated with river scenes,

such as this 19th-century platefrom the Muse de la Marine de

Loire in Chteauneuf-sur-Loire.


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River View: St-Nazaire to MontsoreauAs the river Loire leaves Touraine andheads through Anjou and the Loire

Atlantique, it widens and flows faster,as though rushing towards theAtlantic Ocean. Its waters are alsoswelled by many tributaries. Some

flow alongside, creating a multitude of islands big andsmall; other tributaries flow north and south throughthe surrounding countryside. This land is rich in ancientmonuments, including the Bagneux dolmen, the largestNeolithic construction of its kind, as well as fortressesbuilt during the Middle Ages.

I N T R O D U C I N G T H E L O I R E V A L L E Y3 4

St-NazaireAt the mouth of the RiverLoire, where it flows intothe Atlantic Ocean,St-Nazaire (see p190) is thesite of a major Frenchindustrial zone. Its gracefulbridge is the westernmostriver crossing.

ChamptoceauxThe village of Champtoceaux, on

a cliff 80 m (260 ft) above theriver, offers panoramic views. Aprivate Renaissance chteau nowoccupies the lower part of thebluff, where a medieval citadelonce stood.

Nantes Cathdrale

St-Pierre et St-Paul isGothic style.

Ancenis

THE BRIDGES OF THE LOIREThere have long been bridges across the RiverLoire there was one at Orlans as early as AD52, which was later destroyed by Julius Caesars

army. Now, with so many options for placesto cross the river, it is difficult to imagine whatit was like during the Middle Ages, when therewere only five, or during the 15th century, whenthere were just 13. The bridges crossing the rivertoday tell the story not only of the developmentof bridge building, but also of the region itself,its history and relationships.

St-NazaireAt 3,356 m (11,000 ft), St-Nazaire is the longestbridge in France. The central, suspended section is404 m (1,300 ft) long. It opened for traffic in 1975.Before then, the estuary was crossed by ferry, and thenearest bridge was at Nantes.

Page Fortifi du Cul-du-MoulinThis toll station was one of manyconstructed in the 13th century to collectrevenue from passing vessels. This is one of thefew remaining river toll stations in France.

NantesNantes was a prosperous port during the 18thand 19th centuries (see pp 190193), themeeting point between the ocean and the inland

river transportation channels.

A pleasure barge onthe River Loire

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A V I E W O F T H E R I V E R L O I R E 3 5

AncenisThe suspension bridge at Ancenis opened in 1953,replacing one destroyed in 1940. As the town is at theborder of Brittany and Anjou, two coats of arms adorneither end of the bridge, one with the three lilies ofAnjou and one with the ermine of Brittany.

Les RosiersThe bridge at Les Rosiers is one of the two that cross theLoire at this point. The river is particularly wide hereand has an island in the middle. The island isconnected to the banks at the towns of Les Rosiersand Gennes by two bridges.

Ile BhuardThis island(see p69)wasonce a pilgrimage site forsailors, who prayed to a seagoddess to help themnavigate the sometimes

treacherous waters of theRiver Loire. The presentchurch was built by LouisXI who had nearlydrowned here.

SaumurSaumur is famous for its cavalry school,whose fallen cadets are honoured by this

memorial.

ChinonAbove the River Vienne, Chinon (see pp98 100) was home to Henry Plantagenet in the

12th century.

The Chteau de Saumur(see p82)rises above thetown like a fairytale castle.

The Chteau dAngers,with its massive towersand curtain walls, is onthe River Maine, northof the Loire.

CunaultThe impressiveRomanesque church in

Cunault (see p79) ishome to this painted15th-century statue

of St Catherine.

Les Rosiers

MontsoreauMontsoreau, at the confluence of the Loire

and Vienne rivers, has a 15th-centuryturreted chteau (see p85).

AngersThe Apocalypse Tapestries (seepp767),masterpieces of the14th century, are displayedin the Chteau dAngers.

St-FlorentOnce the church of aBenedictine monastery, the

abbey on the promontorywas the site of dramatic

events during the VendeUprising (see p68).More

than 40,000 Royalisttroops and their supporters

crossed the river here.


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This is truly the royal Loire Valley. As the riverflows through the regions of Touraine, Blsois

and Orlanais, it passes beside many Renaissancechteaux. Some, like Chaumont, Amboise andGien, show their fortress-like exteriors to the river,often concealing courtyard gardens and highlydecorated faades. Others, like Sully, glory in theirluxury. Throughout Touraine, vineyards gentlyslope towards the river, while in the west, the

lands bordering the river are taken up by the forests that wereonce the hunting grounds of kings and princes.

LangeaisIn the town of Langeais,(see p92) high above theriver, there is a massive15th-century chteau,still furnished in keepingwith its period.

Chteau dAmboise(see p110)is a 15th-century chteau, builtby Charles VIII.

Pagode deChanteloupAll that remains

of a once-lovelychteau, thisstrange pagoda(see p111)is 44m (145ft) tall.

BloisOn the north bank of the Loire,

Blois (see pp1247) was the seatof the counts of Blois, and then

the residence of Franois I,whose salamander emblem

decorates one fireplace.

ToursIn the heart of the Loire Valleyregion, Tours (see pp11217)

was always a significant crossingpoint on the river. The livelyplace Plumereau, lined with15th-century buildings, is in theOld Town.

Chteau de ChaumontThe great fortress of Chaumont (see p128)issoftened by Renaissance touches and offersimpressive views from its terrace.

Beaugencys massivekeep(see p136)datesfrom the 10th century.

ToursWhen Tours original 18th-century bridge was built, therue Nationale, which links it to the centre of the city,became the major thoroughfare, in place of the roadbetween the cathedral and the Old Town.

BloisThe bridge at Blois was built between 1716 and1724, replacing a medieval bridge destroyed when aship crashed into it. It was built to a very highstandard, enabling it to survive floods and freezes.

Beaugency

Stained glass

in Gien

River View: Tours to Nevers


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A V I E W O F T H E R I V E R L O I R E 3 7

Chteau de Sully-sur-LoireA magnificent 14th-centurycastle, Sully is set in a moat

created from the divertedRiver Sange.

OrlansSet strategically at the point where theLoire turns southwards, Orlans (seepp1389)has been inhabited since theearliest times. It is famous as the townthat was liberated by Joan of Arcduring the Hundred Years War.

GienGiens 15th-century chteau (see p140)replaced an earlier fortress. The terraces

give good views of the river and of thetowns 16th-century bridge.

Briare Bridge-CanalThe elegant Pont-Canal deBriare (see p141) carries theCanal Latral la Loire across

the river.

An amateur fisherman, one of many attracted

to the banks of the Loire

Abbaye de St-Benot(seep140) has one of Francesfinest Romanesqueabbey churches.

BeaugencyBeaugencys bridge is built in several differentstyles, because sections of the original 12th-centurywooden structure were gradually replaced withstone. The earliest date from the 14th century.

JargeauThe original bridge was replaced by a woodensuspension bridge in the 19th century. A steelbridge, built in the 1920s, was hit in World WarII. The current bridge dates from 1988.

Jargeau

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Spring

asparagus

Horse and rider from Saumurs

Cadre Noir display team

MARCH

Foire lAndouillette(weekendbefore Easter), Athe-sur-Cher(nr Chenonceau). One of manycelebrations of local produce,in this case chitterling sausages.

Foire aux Vins(third week-end), Bourgueil (nr Chinon).Wine fairs bring together

APRIL

Le Printemps de Bourges(third week), Bourges(pp15051). This contempor-ary music festival starts off thelong concert season.Carnaval de Cholet(end Apr),Cholet (p69). Carnival ending

in a fabulous night-time paradeof multi-coloured floats.

(pp8083). This internationalhorse-riding competition takesplace at the famous Cadre Noirriding school, which also hoststattoo and equestrian displaysfrom April until September.Jour de Loire(last weekend),

Loiret, Anjou and Touraine.This wide-reaching festivalillustrates and celebrates allaspects of life lived alongsidethe River Loire.Le Printemps des Arts(Mayand Jun), Nantes (pp19093)and surrounding area. ABaroque dance, theatre andmusic festival, with perfor-mances held in churches

and historic buildings inNantes, Angers and othertowns in the western Loire.Le Festival Internationaldes Jardins de Chaumont-sur-Loire(Maymid-Oct).A celebration of the regionshorticultural magnificence.

THE LOIRE VALLEYTHROUGH THE YEAR

SPRING

March sees the reopeningof many chteaux aftertheir winter closure, often onthe Palm Sunday weekendthat marks the beginning ofthe influx of visitors from therest of France and abroad.The spring flowers in themeadows, the flowing watersof the Loire and other rivers,swollen by winter rains, and

the spring migrations of birdsare particularly appreciatedby nature lovers.

many local producers todisplay their latest vintages,but drinking as well as tasting

is the order of the day.

Farm workers in the fields around Bourgueil

Spring and early summer areoften particularly beautifulin the regions bordering the

River Loire. But it should not beforgotten that this is the Garden ofFrance, and that successful gardensneed plentiful watering in the maingrowing season, so be preparedfor showery days. In the sultry,humid heat of July and earlyAugust, the Loire is usuallyreduced to a modest trickle betweenglistening sand banks. The chteauxcan be very crowded in the summer.Perhaps the most pleasant season is

autumn, when forests gleam red andgold in the mild sunshine, therestaurants serve succulent localgame and wild mushrooms, andthe grape harvest is celebrated intowns and villages with manycolourful festivals. Music festivalsare also very popular in the region.

Concerts are staged all year roundat the Abbaye de Fontevraud (see

pp867), and Amboise (see p110)holds its Summer Organ Festivalbetween June and August. For moreinformation about any of these festivals,contact the local tourist office (see p231).

MAY

Fte de Jeanne dArc(week of 8May), Orlans (pp1389). Oneof Frances oldest ftes, begunin 1435 to celebrate the routingof the English in 1429, takesthe form of a huge, colourful

costume pageant.Concours Complet International(third weekend), Saumur


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T H E L O I R E V A L L E Y T H R O U G H T H E Y E A R 3 9

The beach at the popular Atlantic

resort, Les Sables dOlonne

Folk dancers at a festival

SUMMER

Frances traditional mid-summer celebrations takeplace on or around the Feastof John the Baptist on 24June, with fireworks, bonfires,live music and dancing. To-wards the end of the month,most of the famous son et

lumire (see pp423)perfor-mances begin again, althoughthe long, light evenings ofJune and July are the peaktime for these special events.Many of the small towns andvillages hold local ftes inJuly and the first half ofAugust, the height of theFrench tourist season.

JULY

Bastille Day(14 Jul).The celebrations for the Fte

Nationale, commemoratingthe Storming of the Bastillein 1789, are the high pointof the year in many smallcommunities, where visitorscan join in the dancing andwine-quaffing, and enjoythe often-impressive fireworkdisplays.Tous sur le Pont,(first two weeks),

Blois.An open-aircelebration ofclassical andjazz music andtheatreculminating ina fireworkdisplay anddancing on thebridge.

Foire lAil etau Basilic(26 Jul),Tours. Theheadily scented garlic andbasil fair is held every yearon the Feast of St Anne(p117).

Festival InternationaldOrgue(Sun in Jul and

Aug), Chartres Cathedral(pp1715). Renownedorganists from all over theworld descend on Chartresto participate in this pres-tigious organ festival.Les Enfantillages(last twoweeks), Cholet. Two after-noons a week, the Parc de

Moine features events toentertain children aged 312.

JUNE

Les 24 Heures du Mans(second or third weekend),Le Mans (pp1647). One ofFrances main events, thisinternational 24-hour car raceattracts enormous crowds.Sardinantes(second or thirdSat), Nantes. Savour a plate ofgrilled sardines accompanied

by Celtic music and dancingon the quay in old Nantes.A typical local festival.Festival dAnjou(mid-Junmid-Jul). This theatre festivalis held in historic sitesthroughout the dpartment.Foire aux Escargots(lastweekend), Loch-sur-Indrois(nr Azay-le-Rideau). Snails areserved along with local wines

in an open-air restaurant.Ftes Musicales en Touraine(last weekend; first weekendin Jul), Tours (pp11217).Started in 1964, this interna-tional festival of chambermusic is held in a superbmedieval tithe barn.

AUGUST

March Mdival(firstweekend), Chinon (pp98100). A lively market takesover the whole of the littletown, with stallholdersdressed in period costume

and medieval dishes servedin outside taverns.Foire aux Vins de Vouvray(around 15 Aug), Vouvray.The Feast of the Assumptionis marked by numerous localfestivities, with wine eventspredominating.Foire aux Sorcires(firstSun), Bu (nr Sancerre).The Berry is often said to

be a centre of witch-craft and sorcery.On this occasion,children dressed

as witches or ghostsparade through thevillage to a nearbyfield where crowdsplay games andwatch folk groupsperforming.

Festival de Sabl(last weekend),Sabl-sur-Sarthe(p162). Over

a period of five days,musicians perform inchurches and manorhouses around Sabl.

Sunshine ChartThe summer monthsare generally hot, withthe hottest period in

July. On the Atlantic

coast, cool seabreezes often bringwelcome relief fromthe heat but do notmean that sun-bathers are less likelyto burn. In the springand autumn, riverareas can be mistyin the mornings.

AVERAGE DAILY HOURS OF SUNSHINE

12

9

6

3

0

Hours

FebJan Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec


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High-quality local produce on sale

at the Saturday market in Saumur

SEPTEMBER

Les Accroche-Coeurs(secondweek), Angers (pp723).During the course of three orfour days, the streets of Angersare alive with open-air theatre,

dance, circus, concerts and allmanner of performance arts.Foire aux Melons(second

Fri), Blr. The fields aroundBlr near Chenonceau arebright with golden andorange melons in autumn.Fte du Pain(second Sat),Montreuil-en-Touraine (nrAmboise). The humble bread

loaf, often decorated withnuts and leaves to celebratethe arrival of autumn,becomes a work of art in theskilful hands of local bakers.Journes du Patrimoine(third weekend). For oneweekend a year, chteauxand other historic buildingsthat are usually closed to thepublic can be visited, and

concerts, exhibitions and othercultural events are staged.Foire aux Rillons(last Mon inSep), St-Michel-sur-Loire (nrLangeais). The Feast of StMichael is celebrated with afestival devoted to a delicacyof Touraine (see p210).

markets with a wide variety ofapples. Azay-le-Rideau holds

its own Apple Fair during thelast weekend of October.Foire la Bernache(last SunOct or 1st Sun Nov), Reugny (nrTours). Although it may be anacquired taste, the bernache(unfermented new wine) isvery popular with the locals.Foire aux Marrons(lastTue), Bourgueil (nr Chinon).Chestnuts are the traditional

accompaniment to new wine,and for this reason theyfeature in many guises here.Musiques et Patrimoine(mid-Sepmid-Oct), Chinon. Sixclassical music concerts takeplace at weekends in churchesand chteaux in and aroundChinon.

NOVEMBER

March de Nol(lastweekend), Chteau de Brissac(p78). The Christmas marketin the chteau, featuring localartisans and seasonal produce,marks the beginning of theChristmas season.

AUTUMN

The golden days of autumnattract large numbers ofParisians to the region forshooting weekends, espe-cially to the forested easternareas. This is also the seasonfor the vendanges, or grapeharvest, and the events and

festivities associated with it,and for fairs celebrating thenew seasons produce.

Rainfall ChartSpring and autumnare the wettest times,with the amount ofrainfall occasionally

causing the River Loireand its many tribu-taries to break theirbanks. As you headinland from the coast,

precipitation tends toincrease. During the

summer, rains andviolent storms arecommon at night.

AVERAGE MONTHLY RAINFALL

MM

120

90

60

30

0


4

3

2

1

0

Inches

OCTOBER

Celtomania(first threeweeks), Nantes. This livelycelebration of Celtic cultureincludes music and theatreperformances.Foire aux Pommes(secondweekend), Le Petit-Pressigny(nr Le Grand-Pressigny).Apple orchards yield theirfruit this month, filling the

Wine-tasting at Kerhinet in La Grande Brire


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An old windmill in the Anjou countryside

A concert at the Abbaye de Fontevraud

WINTER

Winter is the quiet seasonin the Loire Valley, whena damp chill rather than afrosty cold sets in, and manyof the chteaux are closed.A few Christmas marketsare held, and a film festival,

but in general this is a timewhen local people preferthe pleasures of home.

DECEMBER

Festival du Film(first week),Vendme (pp1223). Thiscelebration of short, animatedand experimental films isheld at the Minotaure cultural

centre. In addition to thecompetition, there are videoinstallations, exhibitions,debates and retrospectives.Fte de la St-Nicolas(firstweekend), St-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil (nr Chinon).One of many Christmasfairs held throughout theregion, selling toys andfestive decorations.

Foire de Nol(first weekend),Richelieu (p1023). Thistraditional Christmas market

JANUARY

La Folle Journe(last week),Nantes and various othertowns around the region.As many as 400 classicalmusic concerts take place

in 12 different towns, allfocusing on a theme thatchanges every year.

FEBRUARY

Ftes des Vins dAnjou(lastweekend), Chalonnes-sur-Loire. The winter period isenlivened with wine fairs,such as this gathering ofproducers of the Saumurand Anjou appellations.

Temperature ChartIt is rare for wintertemperatures to fallbelow freezing in the

Loire Valley. In the

west, the sea moder-ates the climate, keep-ing it mild. Elsewhere,

summer temperaturescan reach over 30 C(86 F) in the middleof the day, but theevenings are usuallycooler and perfect foreating outside onterraces by the river.

85

75

65

55

45

32

AVERAGE MONTHLY TEMPERATURE


C

30

24

18

12

6

0

F

PUBLIC HOLIDAYSNew Years Day(1 Jan)Easter MondayAscension(sixthThursday after Easter)Labour Day(1 May)VE Day(8 May)Bastille Day(14 Jul)Feast of the Assumption

(15 Aug)All Saints Day(1 Nov)Remembrance Day(11 Nov)Christmas Day(25 Dec)

KEY Maximum Minimum

sells gifts, decorationsand seasonal food.


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Chenonceau Night-timePromenade(1 hours).Tel02 47

23 90 07.#Jun: 9:3011pm Fri,Sat & Sun; Jul & Aug: 9:3011pmnightly.&

The son et lumire produc-tion at this beautiful royalresidence (see pp1069)takesthe form of a play of light andshadow orchestrated by PierreBideau, the designer of theEiffel Tower illuminations.

The walk leads through thegardens designed by Dianede Poitiers and Catherine deMdicis. Corellis music addsto the romantic atmosphere.

BLESOIS AND ORLEANAIS

Blois The Story of Blois(45mins).Tel02 54 90 33 32.#15Apr31 May: 10pm nightly; Jun &Jul: 10:30pm nightly; Aug: 10pmnightly; 124 Sep: 9:30pm nightly.&TranslationsEng, Ger, Ital, Spa.English performance on Wed.

Images of key moments in thehistory of the chteau (see

pp1267)are projected ontoits faade. Included are thevisit of Joan of Arc in 1429,the poetry contest betweenCharles of Orlans andFranois Villon, and theassassination of the Duc deGuise. Watch the show fromthe chteaus courtyard.

Clry-Saint-AndrLa Rvolution Franaise(1hours).Tel02 38 45 94 06.#last 3 w/ends Jul: 10:30pm.www.cleryraconte.com

A cast of hundreds recreatesthe uprising, struggles andother events of the FrenchRevolution. Afterwards you

can sit down to a Republicanbanquet, starting at 7pm(advanced reservationadvised), during which moreentertainment is provided.

LochesLes Nuits Royales(approx 3 hours for the two events).Tel05 47 59 01 32.#mid-Julmid-Aug: 10pm Tue.&

A dramatic nocturnal walkaround the floodlitmonuments and medievalstreets of the town, startingfrom the Logis Royal. Thisis followed by a spectacleof fire and dance. Itscheaper to book the twoevents together.

TOURAINE

AmboiseAt the Court of KingFranois(1 hours).Tel02 47 5714 47.# late JunJul: 10:30pmWed, Sat; Aug: 10pm Wed, Sat.&book in advance.TranslationsEng.www.renaissance-amboise.com

This is a celebration of thelife of Franois I, held at hisfavourite royal chteau (see

p110). The show is enactedby local residents and re-creates the court, with itssumptuous costumes, thrillinghunts, pleasure gardens andelaborate festivities.

Azay-le-Rideau Dreams &Lights(45 mins).Tel02 47 45 4204.#Jul: 9:45pm nightly; Aug:9pm nightly.&

During this fascinatingpromenade production, allthe spectators walk around thegrounds of this elegant chteau(see pp967), as they observea succession of stage, soundand lighting effects.

Son et Lumire in the LoireThe Loire Valley was the birthplace of son etlumire (literally sound and light) shows,and some of the worlds finest examples canbe found here. The first performances, stagedat Chambord in 1952, combined lighting effects

and a soundtrack to emphasize the beauty of thebuilding and to conjure up important historicalfigures. Today many of the shows use lasers

and dramatic fireworks, as well as a cast ofhundreds (often amateur actors drawn fromthe local community), to create a spectacular

pageant. The following list includes the main regular

shows, but it is worth keeping an eye open for postersadvertising one-off events. Performance times may vary.

Faces from the past projected onto the walls of Chteau de Blois

Lighting effects bringing drama to the Chteau dAzay-le-Rideau

Actor at

Amboise


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Fireworks and lighting effects illuminate the chteau of Puy-du-Fou

The history of the Vende re-enacted in the Cinscnie at Le Puy-du-Fou

BERRY

ValenayTeln 02 54 00 0442.La Visit aux Chandelles(90

mins)#two Fridays in Jul and Aug:9:30pm.&

The grounds of this chteau(see p146), including themaze, are illuminated by3.000 candles on two nightseach summer. A troupe of 40actors in period costume andhunting horns help to recreatea memorable atmosphere.

The chteau also stages aSpectacle Nocturne in the lastweek of July and the firstweek of August at 10:30pm.

Aubigny-sur-Nre DifferentFranco-Scottish themes(90 mins).Tel02 48 81 50 91(Mairie).#second and third weekend in Jul,around 9:30pm.&book in advance.

Centuries of proud associationwith the Stuart clan, includinga time in the 18th centurywhen Jacobite exiles madetheir home at Aubigny (see

p154), are reflected in thisFranco-Scot celebration. Themain event takes place overthe course of four daysaround 14 July, comprising ahistorical re-enactment, plus

costume parades, music anddance. On the Saturday thespectacle is complemented bya feast in the gardens of thechteau, while on the Sundaythere is a medieval market.The 14th of July is markedwith a big firework display.

LOIRE ATLANTIQUEAND THE VENDEE

Le Puy-du-FouCinscnie(100 mins)Tel02 51 64 11 11.#Jun & Jul: 10:30pm Fri & Sat;Augearly Sep: 10pm Fri & Sat.Arrive one hour earlier.&bookin advance.TranslationEng.www.puydufou.com

The Chteau du Puy-du-Fou(see p188)hosts the Cin-scnie, which bills itself as

the worlds largest permanentson et lumire spectacle.More than 1,000 actors,250 horses, countlessvolunteers and variousspectacular high-techeffects combine to tracethe turbulent history of theVende from the Middle Agesto the end of World War II.

THE MAGICIANOF THE NIGHTThe master of the modern

son et lumire in France isJean-Claude Baudoin, whois also known as le magi-cien de la nuit. Since 1966he has created the sets formore than 150 musical pro-ductions, held atthe chteaux ofBlois, LochesChambord andValenay, as

well as inSt-Aignan-sur-Cher, LesSablesdOlonnesand Chartres.

Producer

Jean-Claude

Baudoin


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A portrait of Franois I, the Renaissance king (reigned 151547), attributed to Jean Clouet

The Loires central role in Frenchhistory is splendidly displayedin the breadth of its architectural

styles, ranging from megalithic struc-tures to royal and ducal chteaux.

Imposing prehistoric monumentstestify to the existence of thriv-ing Neolithic cultures asearly as the third millen-nium BC. By the 1st centuryBC, the conquering Romansfound sophisticated Celtic com-munities already established.Later, as Christianity spread, theancient Celtic towns at Angers,Bourges, Chartres, Orlans and Toursbecame well known as centres oflearning, and they remain vibrant cul-tural centres today.

A long period of territorial conflictbegan in the 9th century, first amonglocal warlords and later betweenFrance and England, when HenryPlantagenet, count of Anjou and dukeof Normandy and Aquitaine, inheritedthe English crown in 1154. Major bat-tles between the two countries were

fought in the region during theHundred Years War. The Loire alsosaw bloodshed during the fierce 16th-century Wars of Religion, which tookplace between the Catholics and the

Protestant Huguenots. Later, theVende Uprising of 1793 was the

most serious civil threat tothe French republic after the1789 Revolution.

Yet the Loire was also thescene of outstanding culturalachievements and the home ofmany French kings. By the 17thcentury, Frances political focus

had shifted to Paris, although the RiverLoire remained a key transportationroute until the advent of the railwayin the late 19th century.

In the 20th century, the impressivearchitectural evidence of this rich his-tory has led to the growth of theLoires tourist industry. This balanceswith a diverse, well-established indus-trial base and thriving agriculture tomake the valley one of the most eco-nomically stable regions of France.

THE HISTORY OF THE

LOIRE VALLEY

Fleur-de-lys, the

royal emblem

16th-century views of Tours, with its cathedral, and Angers, with quarries of ardoiseslate


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72187Thierry IV

75168Ppinthe Short

72441Charles Martel

71116Dagobert III

9961031RobertII, the Pious

9871040Foulques Nerra98687Louis V

93654Louis IV,the Foreigner

87984Carloman110837

Louis VI, the Fat

87779Louis II, the Stammerer

81440Louis I, the Pious

11991216

JohnLackland

12236Louis VIII

88898Odo, Count of Paris


In the course of the Loires history, the power of thelocal nobility often rivalled that of the French throne.The dukedoms of Anjou and Blois were established

when Charlemagnes territory was divided among hissons upon his death in 814. Henry Plantagenet, countof Anjou, duke of Normandy and king of England,could trace his lineage to Charlemagne. The Frenchmonarchy did not consolidate its authority untilCharles VII moved from the Loire back to Paris in1436. Another local family, the royal house of Orlans,saw two of its sons become kings.

Rulers of the Loire

KEYFrench monarchs

Notable members of local dynasties

44758Merovich

45882Childric I

115189HenryPlantagenet

11801223PhilippeAugustus

87981Louis III

88488Charles II,the Fat71621Childric II

74351Childric III

86066Robertthe Strong

84077Charles I,the Bald

768814Charlemagne

893922Charles III,the Simple

104060Geoffrey Martel

10671108Philippe I

118999Richardthe

Lionheart

95486Lothaire

103160Henri I

98796Hugh Capet

113780Louis VII

482511Clovis I

400

MEROVINGIANS

400

700

700

CAROLINGIAN DYNASTY

800

800

900

900

1000

1000

CAPETIAN DYNASTY

1100

1100

1200

1200


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135064

Jean II,the Good

143080Ren I of

Anjou

146183Louis XI, the

Spider

156074Charles IX

157489Henri III

122670Louis IX(St Louis)

136480Charles V,the Wise

13801422Charles VI,

the Fool

181424Louis XVIII

182430Charles X

183048Louis-Philippe I,Duc dOrlans,

King of the French

171574Louis XV 185270

Napolon III

T H E H I S T O R Y O F T H E L O I R E V A L L E Y 4 7

142261Charles VII,

the Victorious

127085Philippe III

12851314PhilippeIV, the Fair

131416Louis X

131622Philippe V,the Tall

132228

Charles IV,the Fair

132850Philippe VI

148398Charles VIII,the Affable

14981515Louis XII,Father of the People

151547Franois I

154759Henri II

155960Franois II

16431715LouisXIV, the Sun King

177492Louis XVI

180414Napolon I

15891610Henri IV

161043Louis XIII

VALOIS DYNASTY

1300 1400 1500 1600

BOURBON DYNASTY

1700 1800

1300 1400 1500 1600 1700 1800


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c.2500Loiredolmens withporches set newstyle of Neolithicburial chamber

c.800CelticCarnutes found

settlements atBlois, Chartres

and Orlans576Romans

conquer westernLoire tribes

51Julius Caesarends Gaulishuprising that beganin Orlans

JuliusCaesar,first touniteGaul

c.1200Loire regionexports bronze

weapons made usinglocal tin resources.

Celtichelmet

31Roman emperorAugustus sets

framework for 300years of Pax

Romana (peaceand prosperity)

in the Loire

50Loire Valley flourishes asborder link between two Gallo-Roman provinces, Lugdenunsisand Aquitania

2500 BC 100 BC AD 1 AD 100


Neolithic and Roman LoireNeolithic Culture produced some of Frances largestprehistoric tombs and sacred sites. Their buildershad Central European roots, as did the Celts whoestablished cities along the Loire in the Bronze andIron Ages. Julius Caesars conquest of the valley in 51BC left the Celtic tribes under a light Roman rule, thebasis of peace and prosperity for the next 300 years.The spread of Christianity coincided with Romesmilitary decline and the rise of kingdoms ruled by

Visigoths to the south and Germanic Franks to thenorth. The Frankish king Clovis I converted to Christianityand took power in 507 by routing the Visigoths.

The entrance porchis adistinctive feature of

Angevin dolmens.

Baptism of ClovisFrankish chieftain Clovisconverted to Christianity atthe start of the 6th century

to legitimize his rule.

Palaeolithic RemainsFlint tools made in the Loire basinwere traded by Palaeolithic tribesat least 50,000 years ago.

Celtic ArtCeltic art was not

dominated by thenaturalisticideals of theoccupyingRomans. Thisbronze statuette ofa young woman

dates from the1st2nd century AD.

BAGNEUX DOLMENThis 5,000-year-old

chamber tomb in Saumur is21 by 7 m (69 by 23 ft). The nine

massive uprights were levered ontoloose stones, dragged to the site, tiltedand sunk into ditches 3 m (10 ft) deep.

TIMELINE


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WHERE TO SEE NEOLITHICAND ROMAN LOIREAnjou is rich in Neolithic sights, mostlyon the south bank of the Loire. The

largest are at Saumur (see pp823)andGennes (p78). Gennes amphitheatreand the walls at Thse (p129)aretwo of the few surviving Gallo-Romanmonuments. Museums at Orlans(pp138 9)and Tours (pp11415)have major Gallo-Roman collections.

250Gatien, Bishop ofTours, among the first

Christian evangelistsin the Loire

313EmperorConstantine

makesChristianity

official Romanreligion

372Martin, Bishopof Tours, leads

monastic growth 507After converting to Christianity,Clovis defeats Visigoths near Poitiers

498Clovis I takes Orlans

511Clovis I dies; hissons divide his lands

c.150Romans buildamphitheatre at Gennes

275Emperor Aureliangives Orlans

independent status

St Martin,Bishop of

Tours

451Visigothkingdom of

Toulouse helpsrepel Attila theHun at Orlans

Wine: anearly Loire

export473VisigothscaptureTours

c.550First record ofwine production in

the Loire region

200 300 400 500


An inner pillar,perhaps part of awall, helps

support a40-tonne

capstone.

Gennes AmphitheatreRoman gladiatorial combats were heldin the amphitheatre at Gennes.

Gallo-Roman ArtThis beaten bronze stallion,displayed in the archeology

museum in Orlans, wasdedicated to Mars,bringer of war andgod of agriculture.

Orthostats(walls) weresunk in holes 3 m (10 ft)deep and filled with sand,

which was then dug out.

Fresh Water by Aqueduct

Roman pillars near Luynes supported a2nd-century aqueduct which carried springwater to baths in Caesarodunum (Tours).

Celtic ArmourThe warlike Celts were

skilled armourers, asthis bronze breastplate

of 750475 BC shows.The Romans foundthem formidableopponents.


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987Hugh Capet ofOrlans becomesthe first Capetian

king of France

992Bretonsdriven outof Anjou byFoulques Nerra

FoulquesNerra

1096First Crusade launched

1101Founding of Abbaye de Fontevraud 1128Marriage in Le Mans of Geoffrey Plantagenetand Matilda, daughter of Henry I of England

1189Henry IIs death leaves hisson, Richard the Lionheart, as theAngevin rival to the French king

1154Henry Plantagenetaccedes to the Englishthrone as Henry II

1125Thibaut IV of Blois andChampagne rivals Capetian power

1214Angevinempire ends withdefeat of KingJohn at Angers

1000 1100 1200

Medieval musicalnotationshowedvariations in pitch(high and low notes).The length of eachnote depended onthe natural rhythm

of the text. Monastic ArtsThe development of theCaroline Minuscule style ofcalligraphy was led by themonks of Tours Basilique

St-Martin in the 9th century.

Fine CraftsmanshipMany of the finest surviving pieces

of medieval craftsmanship are workedin metal. This 13th-century funerarymask was cast in copper from theeffigy of a woman and then gilded.

ILLUMINATED MANUSCRIPTThis manuscript is the first page of a 13th-centurygradual, a book of plainsong sung during mass. Itis typical of the style of illuminated manuscripts that

were produced by the abbeys of the Loire Valley.This collection of Gregorian chant was compiledby monks of the strict Cistercian Order (see p149).

Hugh Capet of OrlansHugh, depicted here being

handed the keys to Laon, waselected king in 987, ending the

Carolingian dynasty. He set aprecedent for kings to seek refugein the Loire in troubled times.

Romanesque CapitalsThis Romanesque sculpture is ona capital in Cunault church.

WHERE TO SEE EARLYMEDIEVAL LOIREEarly churches such as theone at Cunault (see p79)are

charged with medieval atmos-phere, as are abbeys such asNoirlac (p149)or at Solesmes(p162)and Fontgombault(p147), where you can hearGregorian chant. Fortresschteaux such as the one atLoches (p104)and ruinedtowers at Lavardin (p122)or Montrichard (p128)tellgrimmer feudal stories.

Carolingian IvoryIvory plaques, reliquariesand book covers are amongthe most beautiful Frankish

decorative objects to surviveNorman destructions of the10th century. Carolingianart usually served a religiousor utilitarian purpose.


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The Hundred Years WarThe destructive climax of the Middle

Ages was war between the French andEnglish crowns, flaring intermittently from1337 to 1453. When the English besiegedOrlans in 1428, the Loire region becamethe focus for a struggle that seemedlikely to leave France partitionedbetween England and its powerful ally,

Burgundy. Instead, the teenage heroine,Joan of Arc, inspired Orlans to fight off

the English and brought the dauphin Charles VII out ofhiding in Chinon. Her martyrdom in 1431 helped to

inspire a French recovery. In spite of maraudingsoldiery and the more widespread disaster ofthe plague known as the Black Death, theLoire knew periods of peace and prosperity,during which medieval court life flourished.

Charles VII

Joan of Arcs dauphin, oftenportrayed as a weakling, was

in fact a crafty man in adifficult situation.

Disinherited by theFrench royal family in

1420, he used Joans charisma to rally support.However, he distrusted her political judgment.

The English longbowwas apowerful weapon, requiring

strong, skilled archers.

Cannonscould fire stone balls thatweighed as much as 200 kg (440 lb).

1341English support John ofMontfort against Charles of Blois

in War of Brittany Succession

1346Englishlongbowsdefeat Frenchknights atCrcy

1352Loirebeginsrecoveryfrom fouryears ofplague

Black Deathdepicted in a15th-centuryilluminatedmanuscript

1360Anjoubecomes aduchy

Portrait ofPhilippe VI

1337Philippe VI,first Valois king,

confiscates Englishlands in Guyenne,starting Hu

Documents

Loire Valley (Eyewitness Travel Guides)