Construction Guide

Parkjet

Lockheed MartinF22 RAPTOR

© 2018 Craig Clarkstone. All rights reseved

© Photo Rob Shenk.

Raptor History

Designers Notes

Page 1

All donations given will be passed on to the charity M.A.F

donation for $10 to Paypal address :-

clicketyclarkstone@gmail.com

Thank you! and happy flying.

© 2017 Craig Clarkstone. All rights reserved. The design is free for non-commercial use only.

Craig :)

The Lockheed Martin F-22 Raptor is a fifth-generation, single-seat, twin-engine, all-weather stealth tactical fighter aircraft developed for the United States Air Force (USAF). The result of the USAF's Advanced Tactical Fighter program, the aircraft was designed primarily as an air superiority fighter, but also has ground attack, electronic warfare, and signal intelligence capabilities. The prime contractor, Lockheed Martin, built most of the F-22's airframe and weapons systems and conducted final assembly, while Boeing provided the wings, aft fuselage, avionics integration, and training systems.

The aircraft was variously designated F-22 and F/A-22 before it formally entered service in December 2005 as the F-22A. After a protracted development and despite operational issues, the USAF considers the F-22 critical to its tactical air power, and says that the aircraft is unmatched by any known or projected fighter. The Raptor's combination of stealth, aerodynamic performance, and situational awareness gives the aircraft unprecedented air combat capabilities.

The high cost of the aircraft, a lack of clear air-to-air missions due to delays in Russian and Chinese fighter programs, a ban on exports, and development of the more versatile F-35 led to the end of F-22 production. A final procurement tally of 187 operational production aircraft was established in 2009, and the last F-22 was delivered to the USAF in 2012.

Steve Shumate designed a fabulous Raptor parkjet which flies great... which begs the question - why design another? Well a few reasons :-

1. This design has a bigger wingspan so that it is scaled to match the YF-23 (my first parkjet design). It gives the pusher version a smaller wing loading but is still capable of a decent turn of speed.2. This design is designed to fit a single 70mm EDF - so that a 12/14 blade unit will give the model a great efflux sound. I chose this over twin 50's because it gives a better sound and power/weight ratio (more speed)3. I wanted to offer 3d printed parts - which will help builders with a 3d printer to gain more precise and scale parts to help it look fabulous.4. Both EDF and Pusher versions have thrust vectoring.5. I Love the Raptor (and my good friend Fernando does too) and my Shumate raptor is all beaten up so I wanted to make my own version to add to my collection of designs.

Photo’s used in this manual are copyright of their respective owners.

Page 2RAPTOR

Proud supporter of

please quote ‘Jetworks MAF donation’

www.maf-uk.org/

Model variations

With these plans it is possible to make 6 different variations.

Pusher prop versions

> Non Thrust vectoring>Thrust vectoring (non 3d printed)>Thrust vectoring (3d printed)

EDF versions

> Non Thrust vectoring> Thrust vectoring (non 3d printed)> Thrust vectoring (3d printed)

Adhesives> For the majority of construction : - UHU Creativ for Styrofoam (also called UHU POR) - 3M 77 Spray adhesive.>For wing spars and motor mounts : - Epoxy. (5 and 15mins cure times are the most convenient) micro-baloons can be added to reduce weight.> For servo’s / and quick grab : - Hot melt glue gun - Caution if the glue gets too hot it will melt foam - test first!

Tapes> For holding parts tightly together whilst glue sets - Low tack masking tapes> For leading edges, hinges, general strengthening - 3M Gift tape (Purple - not green one!) - I prefer lightweight plastic hinges.

Cutting parts1. Print the plans, 2. Cut around each part using scissors - allow a border of approx (1/4”) 6mm 3. Use either 3M spray mount or a very light coat of 3M 77 to the back of the parts and stick in an economical layout on the Depron foam.4. Using a safety rule and craft knife over a cutting mat - important! use a fresh blade otherwise it will drag and spoil the foam. (I find the stanley knife perfect) make the straight edge cuts, then the curved parts freehand.5. Once the parts are cut-out, keep the template stuck to the part until just before needed to help identify the parts.6. After use, I find it helpful to keep all the used tempates in case replacement parts need making. (the glue eventually dries and they don’t stick together!)

Glueing parts together.1. Ensure a really good fit - this will reduce the amount of adhesive used. The Bar Sander is a great tool for this. 2. Follow the adhesive instructions closely. 3. Use ordinary steel head pins to help keep the parts located whilst epoxy sets.4. Use objects as weights such as paperweights to apply pressure whilst adhesive sets.5. Use masking tape to apply pressure whilst adhesive sets. Also use masking tapeto along the slots for the wing spars whilst gluing the carbon rod spars into the wings. This prevents the glue protruding and gives a nice finish.

IMPORTANT Wherever the plans call for marking guidelines onto the depron, please ensure that you do otherwise it can cause problems later on. I suggest you use a Sharpie Fineliner to transfer the lines.

Before you start.

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EDF VERSION

Glue the two 3mm lite ply EDF bulkheads together.

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EDF VERSION

Cut the carbon 6mm dia tube wing spars and glue to the plywood bulkheads.

Ensure that they are completely in-line and straight by drawing a line on paper laid on a flat surface and lay the glued assembly against it whilst the glue sets.

EDF version

EDF version

EDF VERSION

Glue the EDF mount into the wing - using masking tape to prevent the Epoxy dribbling.

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PUSHER VERSION

Glue the carbon spar into the wing - using masking tape to prevent the Epoxy dribbling.

EDF version

PUSHER version

BOTH VERSIONS

Gently curve the forward fuselage former as shown.

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BOTH VERSIONS

Glue the forward fuselage former to the wing panel as shown

BOTH VERSIONS

BOTH VERSIONS

BOTH VERSIONS

Glue on Bulkhead 1 as shown.

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BOTH VERSIONS

Glue on Bulkhead 2 as shown.

BOTH VERSIONS

BOTH VERSIONS

BOTH VERSIONS

Glue on Bulkhead 3 as shown.

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BOTH VERSIONS

Glue on Bulkhead 4 as shown.

EDF version PUSHER version

EDF VERSION

tape (NOT GLUE) on Bulkhead 2 JIG as shown.

This will be removed later.

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PUSHER VERSION

Glue on Bulkhead 2 lower in place.

x

PUSHER version

EDF version

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BOTH VERSIONS

Glue on the forward fuselage belly panel (upper) as shown

BOTH VERSIONS

Glue on the forward fuselage lower sides as shown.

BOTH VERSIONS

BOTH VERSIONS

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BOTH VERSIONS

Glue on the forward fuselage rear triangular pieces on as shown and sand the transition smooth.

On the Pusher version using a pen - mark the triangle location to help position them

BOTH VERSIONS

Glue on the forward fuselage forward belly panel (middle) as shown.

EDF version

PUSHER version

BOTH VERSIONS

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BOTH VERSIONS

Glue on the forward fuselage belly piece (lower) as shown - position as marked on the drawings.

PUSHER VERSION

Glue on the servo reinforcement pieces as shown.

BOTH VERSIONS

PUSHER version

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EDF VERSION

Adjust the EDF bulkheads to fit your chosen EDF unit then fit the EDF unit into the assembly. Glue the forward EDF bulkhead in place by sliding it through the slots in the wing panel as shown.

Use either Silicone sealant (quieter installation) or Hot-melt glue to fix the EDF unit in place

EDF VERSION

Glue the EDF Exhaust bulkhead in place as shown.

EDF version

EDF version

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EDF VERSION

Glue on the servo reinforcement pieces as shown.

PUSHER VERSION

Glue the pusher rear bulkheads in place as shown.

PUSHER version

EDF version

EDF VERSION

Glue the fuselage sides to the assembly as shown. Don’t glue to the Jig.

BOTH VERSIONS

On the underside of the wing position the fuselage side jig as shown.

Dry fit - pin in place.

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35mm

BOTH VERSIONS

EDF version

DRY FIT

PUSHER VERSION

Glue the servo mount pieces in place as shown

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PUSHER version

PUSHER version

PUSHER VERSION

Glue the fuselage sides to the assembly as shown. Don’t glue to the Jig.

BOTH VERSIONS

Laminate the lower aft fuselage pieces together and sand to shape.

Glue onto the fuselage as shown

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BOTH VERSIONS

3DPrinted

Part

3DPrinted

Part(optional)

BOTH VERSIONS

Alternatively, 3D print the aft fuselage pieces and glue onto the fuselage as shown

The wing panel will need trimming back to the exhaust bulkhead (as shown)

BOTH VERSIONS

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PUSHER OPTION 1

Glue the motor stick mount into the motor mount using hot melt glue.

Hobbyking - SKU:OR004-00602

Alternatively there is a 3d print version available.

BOTH VERSIONS

3DPrinted

Part

3DPrinted

Part(optional)

NON THRUST VECTORING

PUSHER Option 1

PUSHER OPTION 2

3D print the components as shown using 100% infill and assembly as shown,

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(THRUST VECTORING - 3D PRINTED GIMBLE)

3DPrinted

Part

3DPrinted

Part(optional)

PUSHER Option 2M3 Nylock nut

M3 Nylock nut

M3 washer

M3 washer

2212-6 2200kv motorM3 x 14mmC/sunk M/screw

(THRUST VECTORING - 3D PRINTED GIMBLE)

PUSHER Option 2PUSHER OPTION 2

Glue the depron motor mount pieces together using UHU Por.

Glue the Servo and Gimble in place using hot melt glue.

Connect the servo to the gimble using piano wire so that at full servo extension the gimble rotates 40 degrees both ways (80 degrees total)

Piano wire Pushrod.

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PUSHER (THRUST VECTORING )

PUSHER OPTION 3

Cut the two 3mm lite-ply parts. Drill and split-in-two motor mount (Hobbyking - SKU:OR004-00602) and create the assembly as shown fixing using M3 x 22 machine screws, washers and nylock nuts.

(THRUST VECTORING - NON 3D PRINTED GIMBLE)

PUSHER Option 3

PUSHER OPTION 3

Glue the depron motor-mount pieces together using UHU Por.

Glue the 16g Servo and Motor-mount in place using hot melt glue.

Connect the servo to the motor-mount using piano wire so that at full servo extension the gimble rotates 40 degrees both ways (80 degrees total)(THRUST VECTORING -

NON 3D PRINTED GIMBLE)

PUSHER Option 3

PUSHER VERSIONS

Connect and test the electronics - extending the ESC wires (with the same rating as the ESC) Mount the ESC and Servos as shown using hot melt glue..

PUSHER VERSION

Glue your preferred motor-mount assembly onto the fuselage as shown

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PUSHERversion

PUSHER version

3D PRINTED EDF BELLMOUTH(optional)

3D Print the EDF bellmouth and glue into place on the EDF bulkhead.

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3DPrinted

Part

3DPrinted

Part(optional)

EDF version

EDF version3D PRINTED EDF BELLMOUTH

Prepare the two 3mm air intake inners as shown and glue into place connecting the bellmouth to the fuselage sides.

EDF VERSION

Using UHU Por, Glue the 3mm air intake inner pieces into the assembly as shown.

Using Hot melt glue, carefully glue the thrust tube in place.

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EDF

EDF

EDF VERSION

Glue the bellmouth that came with your EDF unit in place as shown.

Cut the corresponding belly panel to your chosen power method.

Run a sanding bar down the model to ensure a flat bonding surface

Glue in place.

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PUSHER all versions

EDF Thrust vectoring

EDF non - Thrust vectoring

EDF VERSION Trim away the slot for the horizontal stabilisers.

Cut two aluminium tubes so that they stick out on the outside face approx 1mm and are recessed 6mm on the inside - to accommodate the plastic retaining ring

Thread the 6mm carbon tube through the two tubes (to help locate the tubes while the glue sets).

Carefully glue the tubes in place using Epoxy.

Attach the retaining ring and servo horn.(very carefully glue in place with CA)

EDF VERSION

Fit the wooden RX tray as shown.

Connect the Servos and route the cables as shown.

Connect the ESC to the EDF running the cables as shown.

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EDFservo wires

servo wires

RX tray

AluminiumTube

Plastic retaining ring(’de-horned’ servo horn)

Drilled outStandard sized

servo horn

EDF version

EDF version

BOTH VERSIONS

Glue the Horizontal stabilisers to the carbon spars as shown.

Use Masking tape to prevent glue drbbling out.

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PUSHER

PUSHER VERSIONTrim away the slot for the horizontal stabilisers.

Cut two aluminium tubes so that they stick out on the outside face approx 1mm and are recessed 6mm on the inside - to accommodate the plastic retaining ring

Thread the 6mm carbon tube through the two tubes (to help locate the tubes while the glue sets).

Carefully glue the tubes in place using Epoxy.

Attach the retaining ring and servo horn.(very carefully glue in place with CA)

BOTH VERSIONS

AluminiumTube

Plastic retaining ring(’de-horned’ servo horn)

Drilled outStandard sized

servo horn

PUSHER version

BOTH VERSIONSGlue the 3mm plywood lower brace to the spar joint support piece.

Avoid getting glue into the slot area.

Glue bulkheads 2 and 3 to the two bomb bay sides as shown.

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BOTH VERSIONS

BOTH VERSIONS

BOTH VERSIONS

There is a 3D printed nosecone available as an alternative.

BOTH VERSIONS

Laminate the depron nosecone together as shown and sand to shape.

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3DPrinted

Part

3DPrinted

Part(optional)

BOTH VERSIONS

BOTH VERSIONS

BOTH VERSIONS

Laminate together the pieces of depron and sand to shape.

There is a 3D printed nosecone available as an alternative. See following pages.

BOTH VERSIONS

Laminate the depron nosecone together as shown and sand to shape.

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BOTH VERSIONS

BOTH VERSIONS

Build a tongue using a piece of scrap depron and 3mm liteply at the front of the canopy.

Attach the magnets to the magnet panel

Epoxy the magnets to rear of the canopy so that the canopy is removable but holds firmly in place when mounted.

1. press magnet into depron to impress shape. 2. Dig out a recess for the magnetusing a sharp knife.

3. Apply glue into recess andpush magnet into it.

5. When fully cured, remove tapeand put adjoining magnet on top

6. When correctly aligned, press adjoining depron onto the sticking up magnet to impress shape.

7. Repeat steps 2-4 for the upper part.

4. Whilst still wet, lay masking tapeover the area.

IMPORTANT.Before glueing the upper magnet in, check that the magnet is the right way around!

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BOTH VERSIONS

BOTH VERSIONS

There is a 3D printed Canopy mould tool for vacuum forming available

BOTH VERSIONS

There is a 3D-printable canopy model available instead of the laminated depron version.

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3DPrinted

Part

3DPrinted

Part(optional)

3DPrinted

Part

3DPrinted

Part(optional)

BOTH VERSIONS

BOTH VERSIONS

BOTH VERSIONS

Trim and glue the canopy to the cockpit assembly.

BOTH VERSIONS

If you prefer to make a vac-formed canopy, There is a 3D-printable cockpit model available

Glue the parts together using epoxy.

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3DPrinted

Part

3DPrinted

Part(optional)

3DPrinted

Part

3DPrinted

Part(optional)

BOTH VERSIONS

BOTH VERSIONS

Decide at this stage whether you want

EDF - 1. No Thrust Vectoring.EDF - 2. Lite-ply Thrust VectoringEDF - 3. 3D printed Thrust Vectoring

BOTH VERSIONS

laminate the upper tail-end pieces in place and shape as shown.

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(NON THRUST VECTORING)

EDF Option 1

BOTH VERSIONS

Glue the two 3mm depron/3mm lite-ply paddles together and drill out the hinge holes according to the drawing.

Bore out the tie-bar hole using the actual piano wire to ensure a snug fit.

EDF Version

Sand flat the depron surfaces

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(LITE-PLYTHRUST VECTORING)

EDF Option 2

3.5mm

Hinge hole

Tie bar hole EDF version

Using Epoxy, glue the control horn into the upper paddle as shown. Ensure a good fit and a good bond.

EDF OPTION 2

Shape the Depron/Plywood paddle assembly (right) to resemble the shape on the left using sandpaper attached to wooden blocks.

Trim away the area around the tie-bar as shown on both the port and starboard side using a sharp craft knife.

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(LITE-PLYTHRUST VECTORING)

EDF Option 2

EDF OPTION 2 and 3

Fit a Z-bent piano wire pushrod into the Thrust Vectoring servo horn and pass through the hole in the Exhaust bulkhead as shown.

The aft end of the push-rod is to have a servo arm connector on (to allow adjustment) - see image below.

Cut four pieces of 3mm Carbon rod to length (30mm).

Using a 3mm drill bit in your fingertips, drill the depron using the holes in the liteply as a guide.

Test fit the carbon rod pieces into the assembly as shown.

DO NOT GLUE AT THIS STAGE

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x (LITE-PLYTHRUST VECTORING)

EDF Option 2

(LITE-PLY & 3D PRINTTHRUST VECTORING)

EDF Option 2 & 3

EDF OPTION 2 and 3

Slide the piano wire tie bars into both paddles then assemble the paddles onto the fuselage. Carefully fitting a 3mm washer between the paddles and the fuselage.

Slide the carbon rods from the outside into the place then carefully adding a little epoxy on the ends to secure the rods to the depron without gluing the paddle to the pin.

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(LITE-PLY & 3D PRINTTHRUST VECTORING)

EDF Option 2 & 3

EDF OPTION 2 and 3

Fit the Servo Arm Connector to the 3d printed arm and test operate the paddle mechanism.

(LITE-PLY & 3D PRINTTHRUST VECTORING)

EDF Option 2 & 3

BOTH VERSIONS

Kink the Depron upper fuselage sides using the crush-bend technique until the lower edge matches the shape of the wing panel (see next image).

Practice on a scrap piece of depron.

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Glue the top sides to the wing and bulkheads as shown.

Crushes here

Snaps here

xForce here

Force here

Depron

Depron

TABLE

TABLE

FLAT BOARD

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Glue the top in-fill pieces to the fuselage as shown, using the pre-marked line on the forward fuselage sides.

Glue top panel reinforcement piece in place as shown.

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Sand away the underside of the trailing edges in order to allow the thrust vectoring system room to operate.

Glue in place on the assembly.

Glue forward fuselage top panel in place as shown.

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Mask out on the top of the wing as a no-sand area.

Using the sanding jigs positioned as shown, sand the fuselage to achieve the correct shape.

1. Using a extendible craft knife, remove the large obvious pieces.

2. Using a small orbital sander with finger attachment to sand down to the ‘valleys’

3. Using sandpaper with block, work through finer and finer grades of sandpaper until a smooth finish is achieved.

Using the jigs, glue in the

vertical stabilisers

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PUSHER VERSION

If you don't have access to a 3d printer - glue the 3mm depron spacer in as shown.

PUSHER version

PUSHER version

PUSHER VERSION

Glue the splitter in as shown and shape to suit the original Raptor - look at photos for inspiration.

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ALL VERSIONSTrim away the belly panel and lower fuselage sides in order to fit the 3D printed air intakes as shown.

Using a scrap pieces of depron, make this infill piece as shown.

3DPrinted

Part

3DPrinted

Part(optional)

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Congratulations! your model is now complete!

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Use Photo’s of the real modelto help shape and paint the model

Use a silver paint mixed with a little grey to get the look of the Raptor