Landscaping with Native Plants: A Gardener’s Guide for Missouri

7/31/2019 Landscaping with Native Plants: A Gardeners Guide for Missouri

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Chapter Four:

Landscaping with Native PlantsA Gardeners Guide for Missouri


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Gardening with native plants isbecoming the norm rather than theexception in Missouri. The benefitsof native landscaping are fueling agardening movement that says noto pesticides and fertilizers and yesto biodiversity and creating moresustainable landscapes. Novice andprofessional gardeners are turning tonative landscaping to reduce mainte-nance and promote plant and wildlife

conservation. This manual will showyou how to use native plants to cre-ate and maintain diverse and beauti-ful spaces. It describes new ways togarden lightly on the earth.

Chapter Four: Landscaping withNative Plants provides tools garden-ers need to create and maintain suc-cessful native plant gardens. Theinformation included here provides

practical tips and details to ensuresuccessful low-maintenance land-scapes. The previous three chap-ters include Reconstructing TallgrassPrairies, Rain Gardening, andControl and Identification of InvasiveSpecies.

An early proponent of native landscap-ing was Wilhelm Miller who wasappointed head of the University ofIllinois extension program in 1912. Hepublished a number of papers on the

Native landscapes in the WhitmireWildflower Garden, Shaw Nature Reserve.

use of native plants in residential gar-den design, farming, parks, roadsides,and prairie restoration. Miller called hiswork The Prairie Spirit in LandscapeDesign.

One of the earliest practitioners ofMillers ideas was Ossian C. Simonds,a landscape architect who worked inthe Chicago region. In a lecture pre-sented in 1922, Simonds said, Nature

Introduction

Introduction

Landscaping with Native Plants

A Gardeners Guide for Missouri

History of Native

Landscaping


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A typical Missouri creek in the Ozarks (left) and rocky glade (right) are homesto many native plants that are useful in native landscaping.

teaches what to plant. By going tothe neighboring woods and seeingthe trees and plants and shrubs theycontain, one can tell pretty accu-rately what plants will do well in anygiven locality. Nearly 100 years agoSimonds, Miller, and others understoodthat native plants are a good choice foruse in landscaping and they were right.Today native plants are used in resi-dential and commercial landscaping,

highway projects, habitat restoration,storm-water management, for parksand corporate office buildings.

Why Use Missouri Native

Plants?

Local Ecotype Native Plants

Missouris natural plant communitiesoffer a diversity of native plants togardeners. For thousands of years,they have been adapting to life in

prairies, wetlands, river-bottom for-ests, glades and upland savannas.They have evolved with the extremesof our climate, a wide array of patho-gens and a variety of soil and mois-ture types, creating a palette ofdurable and showy Missouri nativeplants that are the focus of landscapegardening. Plants such as yellow wildindigo (Baptisia sphaerocarpa), nativeto the tallgrass prairie, and white-

tinged oak sedge (Carex albicans),which grows in dry woodlands, areeasy-to-grow beauties being show-cased in botanical garden displays,Metro St. Louis Sewer District raingardens, and homeowners flowerbeds. Gardeners who use Missourinative plants have more success thanthose who use plants from otherregions of the United States.


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Eight Reasons to Use Native

Plants

For a Sense of Place

People who have lived in one place fora time develop images of their homethat create a sense of belonging andfamiliarity. Those who have lived inrural Missouri know about floweringdogwood. For instance, its blossomsand berries have made their mark inthe hearts and thoughts of so manyMissouri residents that it is the state

tree. Many people have recognized thisheart-felt connection with nature, and it

often is referred to as sense of place.

For Beautification

Wildflowers, flowering vines, shrubsand trees offer a wide range of colors,textures and forms to create dynamicseasonal displays. Grasses and sedgeshave interesting flowers and seedheads and yelloworange fall color.Shrubs and trees have fall color andberries that persist into the winter.Choosing a wide assortment of plants

ensures seasonal interest, with thebonus of attracting colorful birds, but-terflies and insects.

For Stormwater Management

Rain gardens, bioretention and wet-land detention basins are a few bestmanagement practices in use. Theyslow down and absorb rain water, thusreducing the quantity and velocity ofstormwater runoff while improvingwater quality.

See Chapter Two Rain Gardening

and Storm Water Management fordetails on planning, constructing and

maintaining rain gardens.

For Educational Opportunities

Native plant gardens present end-less opportunities for learning aboutseasonal cycles, wildlife, and plantlife cycles. Quiet spaces outside canbe used for art and reading classes.Environmental and conservation topicsare taught best outdoors.

4Landscaping with Native Plants


Left: Luna moth perched on wood poppy. Right: Sulphur butterfly getting nectarfrom a New England aster blossom.


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For Erosion Control

Siltation is a main source of water pol-lution. Soil loss can be reduced byusing plants with strong, deep roots inplace of turf, rock or concrete. Plantshold the soil, absorb water and slowthe flow of water over the surface.Replacing turf with native plantings is

an effective way to help control erosion.

To Create Wildlife Habitat

A native plant garden with a diversityof trees, shrubs, perennials and grassesprovides food and shelter for insects,birds, amphibians and mammalsthroughout the growing season.Leaving seed heads and plant structurethroughout winter provides continuingfood and shelter for many creaturesand provides opportunities to observenature up close.

For Resistance to Deer Browse

Deer are adaptable and eat a wide vari-ety of plants. Forturately there are manynative plants that deer avoid. Deerrely on their sense of smell to deter-mine whether an area is safe and whichplants are desirable to eat. For instance,plants with aromatic foliage such as

wild bergamot (Monarda fistulosa) andround-leaved groundsel (Senecio obova-tus) deter deer. Some plants repel deerbecause of their coarse, rough, hairy orspiny textures. This group includes rat-

tlesnake master (Eryngium yuccifolium)and prickly pear cactus (Opuntia humi-fusa). A deer-resistant garden includes ahigh percentage of these types of plants.

See pages 32-33 for a list of deer resis-

tant native plants.

For Less Maintenance

Compared with lawns and mulchedtree, shrub and perennial plantings,landscapes planted with appropriatenative plants require less maintenance.They require minimal watering (exceptduring establishment and drought peri-ods) and they need no chemical fertil-izers or pesticides.

Characteristics of native plants thatreduce maintenance include:

Longevity: plants that live formany decadesThree to four-season interest: plantsthat are apealing most of the yearVariable conditions: plants thattolerate a wide range of light andmoisture conditionsSmall and compact: plants that arein scale with a given spaceWeed elimination: plants that grow

into dense groupings and eliminateweedsSeediness: plants that do not spreadreadily from seed

See page 24 for a list of top performingnative plants that reduce the amount ofmaintenance.

Bioretention seeding in Columbia, Missourireduces maintenance costs associated withmowing, mulching, and weeding.


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This list provides many reasons touse native plants in a landscape, but

before you begin planting, think aboutwhat you want the landscape to dofor you. You may want to reduce timeand money spent mowing a largeexpanse of turf. Or you may want toreduce the expense of installing annu-al flower beds. These numbers put thecost of mowing grass and maintainingstandard planting beds into perspec-tive.

Cost comparisons:

Turf

Averageturfinstallationper acre (seed): $3,000

Averageturfinstallationper acre (sod): $8,000

Annualturfmaintenanceperacre: $1,000

Annualturfmaintenance for homeowner:$500

Native Prairie SeedingAverageprairieseedingper

acre: $1,500Annualprairiemaintenance

per acre: $200

The proper handling of stormwater runoff is a significant issue for homeowners, neigh-borhoods and communities. Left: a rain garden planted with Missouri native plants at theMissouri Methodist Conference Center in Columbia, Missouri. Right: Missouri BotanicalGarden bioretention best managment practice (BMP) planted with natives in the mainentry parking lot (oak sedge (Carex albicans) in foreground).



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Mulched Groundcover PlantingAverageplantingper1,000

sq. ft. $2,500Annualmaintenanceper

1,000 sq. ft. $200

Standard Mulched Planting BedAverageplantingper1,000

sq. ft. $3,500Annualmaintenanceper

1,000 sq. ft. $400

Native groundcovers require the leastamount of maintenance because theyestablish quickly, are long-lived, sup-press weeds and require little mulchonce established. Native groundcov-ers also are an excellent alternativeto invasive wintercreeper euonymus,English ivy and periwinkle that haveescaped cultivation and invaded manynatural woodlands in Missouri.See page 26 for a list of nativegroundcovers.

Site Evaluation

Map the Area

Now that youve thought aboutwhy to use native plants and whatyour goals are, its time to makea map. A map, drawn to scale,

aids in determining plant numbersas well as placement and the amountof compost and mulch needed.Slope, drainage and potentialfor erosion should be noted andreviewed for a possible bioswale orrain garden. Indicate location of struc-tures, utility lines and traffic use.

Indicate north, south, east, andwest, soil types, existing vegetation

and patterns of shade and sunlight.Make copies of the drawing sovarious versions of the planningprocess can be kept as the designchanges. As possibilities are pulledtogether, remember the saying

dont fight the site. For most con-ditions encountered, there is a list ofplants that will thrive there. It issimpler and less expensive to usethis approach than to alter the site.

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A site plan of your property will help youdecide where to place gardens, walkways,patios and stormwater features.


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Survey of Existing Vegetation

A plant survey of the area may revealremnants of the plant communitythat once existed on the site. Theseremnant species are good sources forseed to use in establishing new land-scapes. For example, if native wetlandgrasses and forbs grow nearby or onthe site, include those in the plantlist. Keep a close eye on the ripen-ing seeds of these plants for collect-

ing. The site may be covered withshrubs, vines or weedy vegetation. Ifso, determine which vegetation shouldbe removed. Identify trees and shrubsthat will remain and remove weakerand undesirable species. Enlist thehelp of an arborist if you are unsureof which tree species are beneficial tothe overall design.

Sunlight

Determine the quality of light on thesite. If shade exists, note when theshade occurs. Afternoon shade ordappled, occasional sunlight providesa good environment for many savannaand woodland species. In contrast, hotafternoon or all-day sun is best suitedto prairie, wetland and glade species,depending on soil type.

Soil

Many native plants are generalists;they tolerate a wide range of soiltypes. However, there are some, suchas the glade coneflower (Echinaceasimulata) or rose verbena (Glandularia

canadensis), that thrive in dry, rocky

soils but suffer in compost-rich soils.By considering your soil, its structure,fertility and pH, you will be able tocompile an appropriate plant list forany soil type encountered.

Soil Fertility and pH

Get a general analysis of your gardensoil with a basic soil test. Soil sample

information forms are available atUniversity of Missouri Extension officesand online at www.extension.missouri.edu. When filling out the form select ageneral analysis.

pH is a measurement of a soils acidityor alkalinity on a scale where 7.0 isneutral. Results below 7.0 indicate anacid (sour) soil, and soils above 7.0are alkaline (sweet). Many plants dowell in one or the other environment,while a wide assortment thrive in thepH range of 6.5 - 7.5. Basic soil testsalso give a soils content of macronu-trients such as nitrogen, phosphorusand potassium. A more complete soiltest yields levels of the micronutrientsin the soil (boron, magnesium, cop-per).

Testing Water Infiltration toDetermine Soil Types

To determine soil type and how quick-ly water drains through soil, do aninfiltration test. First, dig a hole onefoot deep and eight inches wide. Fillit with water and observe how quicklythe water disappears. Note: do infil-

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tration tests when soil is moist, theday after a soaking rain or watering.

If water drains within an few hours

the soil is a well-drained sandy orloamy soil. Select dry-loving nativeplants listed on page 32.If it takes 24 hours or more todrain, it is a poorly drained claysoil, typical of where native wet-land species thrive. See chaptertwo of this landscaping series:Rain Gardening and Storm WaterManagement for a list of appropri-ate plants.

Soils that drain in less than sixhours are considered satisfactoryfor growing most native plants.

Soil Texture

Another way to determine soil type isby feeling it with your hands. Hold asmall wet piece of soil in your handand rub it between your thumb and

index finger.

Sandy soil has obvious sand particlesthat feel and look like sand. It drainswell because of a large particle sizethat is irregularly shaped. It feelscoarse and doesnt compact easily.This soil type has low fertility becauseof its low organic content. Soil colortypically is light tan.

Clay soil feels sticky and forms rib-bons when forced between yourthumb and index finger. It has micro-scopic, flat-shaped particles. Theshape and size of clay particles con-tribute to compaction, with little spacefor air or water movement. Because

of this, clay soil has poor drainageand lower fertility. Clay soils often aredescribed as being heavy. The charac-teristic color is reddish or grayish.

Silty soil feels smooth and silky butdoes not form a ribbon like clay. Ithas particles much smaller than sand.Fertility is slightly higher than sandysoil. It drains relatively well and has atan color.

Sandy loam soil is considered the

ideal garden soil for the widest rangeof plants. It is sold as topsoil. The soilcolor is dark-brown and particle sizevaries. It is among the healthiest ofsoil types since it is well-draining withample air spaces, has good organiccontent and fertility and has an abun-dant population of beneficial soilorganisms.

Soil Structure

Soil structure indicates the effectsoil has on the movement of water,amount of air in the soil and howwell roots are able to penetrate intothe soil. It works in conjunction withsoil texture and is easy to deter-mine. A simple way is to form a ballof damp soil in your hand by squeez-ing it. If you cant make a ball, the

soil is sandy. If it is crumbly and hasdark color, it is a sandy loam. Claysoil remains in a ball. Soil structurecan be improved with the addition ofcompost. This increases particle sizeand encourages beneficial soil-borneorganisms.

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Soil Moisture

The moisture level in soil is determinedby a combination of topography and

soil structure. For example, a low-lyingarea with organic or clay soil staysmoist for long periods of time. Wetlandspecies are an appropriate choice forthis situation. The converse is a rockysoil with low organic content at or nearthe top of a rocky slope. These sitesdry quickly after a rainfall. In this case,upland prairie, savanna and glade spe-cies are the best choices.

Supplemental watering may be neces-sary until plants are established and

mature.

Plant Selection

Right Plant, Right Place

Plants flourish with minimum mainte-nance when appropriately chosen for acertain location. For small gardens andlandscapes, determine sunlight and soilmoisture conditions by observing sun

patterns and storm water flow duringand after a heavy rain. Note sunny andshady areas and where water drainsand puddles. The plant list section on

pages 24-34 groups plants by sunlight,soil types and tolerance to flooding anddrought.

Here is a list of landscape situations andsolutions that will help you select theright plants for your garden:

If you have limited time to gardenkeep the landscape style simple anduse native groundcovers. Reduce

plant diversity and mass single spe-cies in larger spaces. Native ground-covers are an excellent alternative tohigh-maintenance turf. They coverareas quickly, suppress weeds andreduce amounts of mulch needed.If you like to spend time in the gar-den, you can incorporate higherplant diversity, more garden fea-tures and a more complex designlayout. This requires increased time,

labor, plants and maintainance.If you have exposed boulders, rockyor gravely soil, or plants that growsparsely, choose plants that grow onrocky glades.If you have hard clay, select plants

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Low-maintenance native groundcovers are used in simple massed plantings. When fullymature they suppress weeds and reduce the amount of mulch needed. Left: yellow foxsedge (Carex annectans) Right: prairie alumroot (Heuchera richardsonii)


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that tolerate low fertility and poordrainage.If your garden is in a low, wetarea, create a rain garden.If whitetail deer are a problem,select native plants they avoid.

See pages 24-34 for detailed lists ofplants for various garden conditions.

Select Local Ecotype Plants

These plants originate from wild popu-lations in your region, which meansthey are adapted to Missouris climate.This does not mean the plants youpurchase come directly from the wild.Wild harvested plants should be avoid-ed because they deplete native plantpopulations. Local ecotype plants will

outperform non-local ecotype plantsin most cases because they are accli-mated to Missouris soils, weather andpests.

Plants for Larger Landscapes

You may be able to select plants byidentifying the original habitat type

including prairie, woodland, wetland,etc. Regional plant field guides typi-cally describe general plant habitatsin the front of the book. Once youdetermine your habitat type(s), beginselecting appropriate plants. Not allplant species are available for sale soit is best to refer to nursery catalogsas you select plants by habitat.

Sunny Environments

Prairies

A prairie is an ecosystem of grasseswith herbaceous forbs. Few trees orshrubs exist in this habitat. Typicalprairie plants include Indian grass(Sorghastrum nutans), big bluestem

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Plants growing in nature give us clues as to where they may be suited in a man-madelandscape like a rain garden. Left is yellow-fruited fox sedge growing in a sunny creekbottom. Right is cardinal flower growing at the edge of a shady creek.


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(Andropogon gerardii), rattlesnakemaster (Eryngium yuccifolium), aster,goldenrods and many Silphium spe-cies. Some prairies have wet soils andare host to plants such as prairie cord

grass (Spartina pectinata), wild bergamot(Monarda fistulosa) and marsh milkweed(Asclepias incarnata). Upland prairiesexist where the bedrock is shallow andsoil is dry and glade-like. Shorter plantspredominate, such as little bluestem(Schizachyrium scoparium), sideoatsgrama (Bouteloa curtipendula) and but-terfly milkweed (Asclepias tuberosa).

Glades

Thin, rocky topsoil combined with out-croppings of shallow bedrock creates thisdesert-like environment. Glades typi-cally are found on south- and southwest-ern-facing slopes and ridgetops in theOzark Highlands. These areas are hotand sunny because the shallow, well-draining soil does not support growth of

large trees. Sunny south or west-facingslopes with thin soil and exposed rocksare areas in your landscape where gladeplants will thrive. When planted in richsoil, common in many gardens, gladeplants deteriorate and die. Plants foundin a glade environment include rose ver-bena (Verbena canadensis), Missouri eve-ning primrose (Oenothera macrocarpa)

and aromatic aster (Aster oblongifolius).Many species encountered in dry uplandprairies also are found in glades.

Wetlands

Missouri has an abundance of wetlands,from river edges to lake shores and wetmeadows. The list of plants well-adaptedto these alternating wet and dry condi-tions is extensive. In addition, there aremany plants that flourish in permanentlywet areas and in ponds. Soil types rangefrom clayey to sandy loam and are sub-

ject to fluctuating moisture levels. A few

representative plants include the mightyswamp oak (Quercus bicolor) and baldcypress (Taxodium distichum), beauti-ful irises such as blue flag (Iris virgi-nica) and copper iris (Iris fulva) as wellas cardinal flower (Lobelia cardinalis)and rose mallow (Hibiscus lasiocarpus).Sedges (Carex spp.) and rushes (Juncusspp.) compose a large percentage of theplant list. Wetlands offer a wide diversityof plants, birds, mammals and insects.

Frogs and other amphibians are heardand seen frequently. Wetland plant listsare useful for rain gardens, bioswalesand low areas that remain wet for longperiods.



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Shady Environments

Upland Savannas

Many areas of Missouri were savannaswith widely spaced trees, predominant-ly oak and hickory species. Savannasare dominated by grass species andare interspersed with forbs (herbaceousflowering plants) that fill the wood-land floor. The quality of light is bright,dappled shade with areas that receivesunlight for short periods. Typicallysavannas occupy the higher and driersoils of upper slopes and ridges of hillsand are maintained with prescribed fireor annual mowing. The park-like settingof suburban properties are reminiscentof savannas. Plants such as smoothhydrangea (Hydrangea arborescens),coneflower (Echinacea purpurea), blaz-ingstar (Liatris scariosa) as well asmany asters and goldenrods are appro-priate choices for savanna-like settings.

Riverbottom and North-slopingForests

Riverbottom and north-sloping wood-lands tend to have soils that are richin organic matter and hold moisture.The tree canopy is heavy and produc-es medium to dark shade, with a thickunderstory. Typical species includeferns, wild geranium (Geranium macu-latum), Virginia bluebell (Mertensiavirginica) and wild sweet William(Phlox divaricata). Specific speciesvary according to where they existin the woodland - top of ridge versusbottom of hill or north versus southfacing slopes.

Planning and Site Preparation

Layout and Estimating SquareFootage

Outline the area to be planted with a

hose or rope. It is easier to move a hoseor line than to make changes after dig-ging has occurred. Stakes are anotherway to create an outline. Once you arehappy with the layout, measure andmultiply the length and width to get arough square footage. Most spaces haveround edges so keep in mind that this isa rough estimation.

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Estimating Plant Quantities andSpacing

If your garden layout is 10 feet by 10feet you have 100 square feet of space(10x10=100). If you choose to plant on12-inch centers, you need 100 plants.

Plant Quantity Calculator

Spacing in Inches

8 12 18 24 36

50 100 50 22 12 5100 225 100 45 25 11150 350 150 67 37 16200 450 200 90 50 22250 550 250 112 62 28300 675 300 135 75 33400 900 400 180 100 44500 1100 500 225 125 55600 1350 600 270 150 66700 1550 700 315 175 77

800 1800 800 360 200 88900 2000 900 405 225 991000 2250 1000 450 250 110

Left colum is total square feet.

There are a number of plant calculatorson the internet. www.classygroundcov-ers.com is one of the easiest to use.

Remove Existing Vegetation

Removal of existing vegetation is impor-tant for the successful establishmentof new plants and can be done in a

number of ways. For killing weeds onlarge properties, refer to Chapter One Seeding a Tallgrass Prairie. For identi-fication and removal of invasive species,refer to Chapter 3 - ID and Control ofInvasive Species.

For smaller properties, the first stepis to mow or string-trim tall weedsdown to 4-12 inches. The second stepincludes one or more of the following

techniques.

Herbicides Read herbicide labels beforeuse. Apply a glyphosate herbicidesuch as Roundup. Use Rodeo instead ofRoundup if the area is near a pond orcreek. Less herbicide is required if veg-etation has been mowed short. In twoweeks, the vegetation will brown anddie. Leave the dead stubble to preventerosion, especially on slopes. It also will

decay and add organic content to thesoil. Shredded leaf or bark mulch maybe applied over the dead vegetation.



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Always wear safety glasses or goggles,gloves and protective clothing whenapplying herbicides. Read herbicidelabels before use.


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Use a thick layer of compost or woodchips over existing vegetation tosmother it. In smaller gardens, a layerof newsprint can be used before mulch-ing. It takes a couple of months for the

vegetation to die. This method workswell for small to medium size gardens.Once undesired vegetation is killed, donot till in uncomposted leaves, bark orwood chips as they will cause the newplants to turn yellow or die.

Put clear plastic over the mowedvegetation, and sunlight will createheat that kills the vegetation. However,microorganisms in the upper layer of

soil are affected adversely so add com-post and earthworm castings to the soilto replenish the microbial populations.

Remove sod with a desodding shovel ormachine. The top few inches of rootsand soil are removed, exposing theunderlying soil.

Soil Preparation

Amending soil should be done onlyunder the most difficult circumstancesbecause there are native plants thattolerate a wide variety of tough soilconditions.

Severe clay subsoil that is remain-ing after construction should havea minimum of 3 inches of topsoiladded and tilled into the surface.

Severely compacted topsoil shouldbe loostened by hand with a shovelor with a backhoe or mini-excavatorfor larger areas.Fertilizing is not normally recom-mended unless you have clay sub-soil and choose not to add topsoil.If planting in clay subsoil, removesoil unearthed while planting and

backfill with topsoil. This eliminatesair pockets and drought-relatedmortality and reduces establishmenttime.

Soil Compaction and Grading

Before grading soil or planting, it isimportant to contact the Missouri-1 CallSystem to locate underground utilities.Call 1-800-DIG-RITE three days beforebreaking ground. They will mark under-ground utilities with colored spray paintand flags.

Avoid compacting soil with heavyequipment or foot traffic. Compactedsoil drains poorly, has low oxygen con-tent and is difficult to plant in. If soilis compacted, loosen the soil beforeplanting. Severe compaction mayrequire digging deeply with shovels orin large areas with a mini excavator orbackhoe. This is necessary for properdrainage. Then till soil to create a loosesoil that is easy to work with.

Final soil grading typically is done onsmall areas by hand with stiff gar-den or grading rakes after tilling. Onlarge areas this is done with a skid-steer-mounted tiller or soil conditioner.During the grading process, tough clodsof dirt, clay, rocks, roots and stemsare raked out and removed. Steep soilgrades require the application of ero-sion blankets.

Stabilizing Steep Slopes

There are several brands of erosioncontrol blankets available in gardencenters. They typically are made ofstraw, wood shavings, coconut fiber or

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jute and are woven into a plastic meshthat should be biodegradable. Avoidnon-biodegradable or permanent fabricsbecause birds and reptiles get tangled inthe mesh.

0 10% slope:2 foot or less drop ina 20 foot distance. Gentle slopes areideal and easy to work with and do notrequire erosion control fabric.

10 20% slope: 4 foot or less drop ina 20 foot distance. Steeper slopes canpresent a challenge and use of erosioncontrol fabric should be considered.

Above 20% slope: 5 foot or less dropin a 20 foot distance. Once the percentslope is above 20%, erosion control isrecommended.

(See graph below)

Planting

Planting Seasons

Spring and fall are the best times toinstall native plants, with spring beingthe first choice. Containerized plantsand divisions establish quickly becausesoil is cooler and moister. That said,you may plant containerized plants insummer as long as you water regularly.If water is not available, plant betweenlate February and April.

Lay Out Plants

Lay out plants (in their containers)on the ground to attain even spacingbefore planting.

Use a grid pattern similar to this whenplanting larger areas and groundcovers.

X X X X X X

X X X X X

X X X X X X

In hot sun keep plants watered as mostplastic pots are black and absorb heat.Now is the time to rearrange plants toattain the best spacing.

0 10%

10 20%

20% plus

20 ft. length

0

2 ft.

4 ft.

6 ft.

Unroll erosion control blankets from top ofslope to bottom and overlap edges to attaincomplete coverage. Pin down blanketssecurely.


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Planting in the Soil

Plant first and then mulch. Thisensures plant roots are in the soil andnot just in the mulch.

Insert the plant so the potting mix isnot exposed to the mulch or air, sothe rootball will not dry out. Cap thepotting soil with a thin layer of naturalsoil to prevent moisture loss.

When planting in hard clay soil, havea bucket or wheelbarrow of rich, loos-ened topsoil handy to backfill plantingholes. Backfilling with hard clay clods

leaves air pockets that lead to des-sication or plant death. You may havegood topsoil on your property to bor-row or you may have to purchase top-soil from a garden center.

If you mulch the planting area beforeplanting, do not exceed the mulchdepths listed below and do not leavesoil on top of the mulch as thisencourages weeds. Also be sure that

plant roots are inserted in soil and notin mulch.

Mulching New Plantings

Twice-ground leaf compost is rec-ommended for mulching perennialsand grasses. Shredded hardwood (or

cedar) bark mulch is recommended fortrees and shrubs. Use these recom-mendations to prevent over-mulchingor burying plants too deeply in mulch:

Deep Cell Plugs....1.5 inchesQuart Pots...........2 inchesGallon Pots..........2.5 inchesTree/Shrubs.........3 inches

Do not incorporate mulch into the

soil as this leads to poor plant perfor-mance and/or death.

Watering New Plantings

Water new plantings immediately!Dont wait for rain since weather cantbe predicted from hour to hour.

During the first three weeks, water

plantings every four days for about60 minutes (the equivelant of about 1

Left: Carefully remove plant from container. If roots are spiraling around insidethe pot, cut the roots to prevent further spiraling. Middle: Remove loose pottingsoil from the top of the potting soil ball. Insert plant so the top of the potting soilis level or just below the top of the topsoil and fill in with loose topsoil. Lightly cappotting soil with a thin layer of topsoil. Right: Firmly press down plant to remove airpockets. Cover topsoil with 1-2 inches of mulch and water immediately.


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inch of rainfall). A one-hour wateringwill soak more deeply into the groundthan daily 15-minute waterings. Insummer increase frequency to everythree days.

After three weeks reduce frequency toonce per week until plants are estab-lished. Plants are established whenroots have grown out of the containersoil and into the native soil to a depthof two to four inches. This normallytakes three to four months for peren-nials and grasses and six monthsfor trees and shrubs. With trees andshrubs, the larger the root ball thelonger it takes to become established.Extremely large trees may take years.

When plants are fully established,watering is only necessary during dryor drought periods during summer.

Planting Seed

It is less expensive to plant largeareas with seed than with plants.Seeded areas look natural and areusually in sunny areas (prairie), shadywoodlands (savanna), or wet areas(wetlands, rain gardens, bioretentionor detention basins). When seeding becertain weeds are eliminated, do nottill the soil, sow seed in early winterand keep the seeding mowed to sixinches during the first growing season.It takes about three years for mostseedlings to mature and flower.

Please read Chapter One,Reconstructing aTallgrass Prarie fora detailed description of how to sowseed.

Maintenance

There is the misconception that

native landscapes require little or nomaintenance. In reality, some nativegardens require a lot of maintenanceand some dont. This list describeswhat makes a native landscape low-maintenance and why:

Plants that are long-lived do notneed replacing.Plants that are selected properlyfor a site will thrive.

Plants that have few pest prob-lems require no chemicals.Plants that are compact andclump-forming work well in smallplaces and dont flop over.Plants that sucker to form solidground-cover fill large spacesquickly, keep weeds out andrequire little mulch.Plants that do not spread agres-sively from seed reduce weeds.

Plants with clean, dense foliagethree to four seasons of the yearprevent weeds and require littlemulching.

If your goal is to reduce maintenance,keep the landscape style simple anduse native groundcovers. Reduce plantdiversity and group single species inlarge masses. Native groundcovers arean alternative to high-maintenance

turf and flower beds. They cover areasquickly, suppress weeds and reduce theamount of mulch needed.

As with all gardens, a new plant-ing requires attention as the plantsbecome established. Once root sys-tems are well developed, supplemen-tal watering should be minimal oronly in periods of drought.


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Weed Control

It is likely weeds will grow in newlyplanted areas the first and second

years. Control them by handpullingor spot spraying with a glyphosphateherbicide such as Roundup. If youhave nut sedge, hand-pull repeatedlyuntil it is gone or use the herbicideSedgehammer.

By the second or third year, plants aremore established and able to crowdout weeds. Weeding becomes minimalas the garden matures. Annual appli-cations of compost and mulch in lateautumn help suppress weed growthand make handpulling much easier.

Fertilization

Fertilizer is not necessary with mostnative landscapes. The exceptions aresites where topsoil has been removed

down to subsoil clay after new con-struction. These clay soils are impos-sible to dig in when dry. In theseextreme situations add a minimum ofthree inches of topsoil before planting.

An application of one to two inches ofcompost each fall helps maintain anadequate level of fertility and organicmatter in the soil, which reduces oreliminates the need for fertilizer.

Insect Problems

In general, native plants are notaffected by insect damage. There areexceptions, however. Japanese beetlesmay devastate native roses, hazel-nut and wild grapes in some years.Dogwood sawflies denude swamp dog-wood, but only in some years. It isonly a matter of time before beneficialinsects move in and control the prob-lem naturally.

Developing a tolerance for smallamounts of damage and an under-standing of the interaction of beneficialinsects eliminates the need for pestcontrol. There is a host of desirablecaterpillars that nibble native plants.Monarch caterpillars eat milkweedleaves, zebra swallowtails eat pawpawleaves and giant swallowtails eat waferash shrubs. All of these turn into beau-

tiful butterflies.

To control mosquitos use a diversityof native plants in and around wateredges. This will attract native aquaticinsects and frogs that eat mosquitolarvae.

Yellow nutsedge is a common gar-den weed that is difficult to control by

hand. Hand pull small infestations orspray the herbicide Sedgehammer forlarge-scale control.


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Mulching

Mulch gives gardens a clean, tendedand intentional appearance. Otherbenefits include preventing loss ofsoil moisture, controlling soil tem-perature and suppressing weeds.Mulch may be applied from late fallthrough spring. In areas where youwant to encourage seed germina-tion (woodlands, for example), applymulch after seeds have germinated inspring and are tall enough to trans-plant.

Never till mulch into topsoil becausemulch is not composted. As it breaksdown it starves plants of nutrients.Mulch must be fully rotted (black incolor, the consistancy of sawdust andhave no heat) before it can be incor-porated into topsoil.

Twice-ground composted leafmulch is one of the more commonlyused mulches and is readily available

from compost suppliers or gardencenters. It is delivered warm or hotand has a slight to strong sour smellbecause it is not composted com-pletely. This mulch can float so is notrecommended for use near stormwa-ter flows.

Shredded hardwood or cedar barkmulch is also commonly used andavailable. Cedar lasts much longer

than hardwood but costs more. Oncerained on, it tends to bind togetherand will not migrate. It is recom-mended for use in rain gardens.

River gravel mulch comes in varioussizes, from pea-sized gravel to three-inch rock. A medium size of one ortwo inches works best in rain gardensor where storm water will be flowing.It is heavy to move around.

Pine bark chip mulch has largepieces that migrate on slopes andfloat. It is recommended for use onflat ground.

Natural tree leaves raked up andreused as mulch save money but donot look clean or intentional in plant-ing beds. They are best used in natu-ral wooded settings.

Wood chips from a tree chipper arecoarse, uneven and do not look asclean as ground mulches. They workwell, however, and are economical.

Left: Shredded hardwood bark mulch binds together to resist washing away. Middle:River gravel mulch will not migrate where water flow is a problem. Right: Wood chipmulch is inexpensive or often free but migrates and may float away where water flowoccurs.


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Pruning

Pruning involves the use of handpruners, hand saws, lopers, orshears. Here are some reasons toprune.

To remove damaged branches.Ice and wind storms may cause bro-ken branches on trees and shrubs,that should be removed before theycause harm to people or property.When pruning tree limbs, be cau-tious as limbs may fall at any time.Contact a certified arborist if you areunsure about safety issues.To remove suckers and watersprouts. Suckers are fast-growingsprouts that emerge from the groundat the base of a tree or shrub. Watersprouts are similar but emerge froma stem or branch. Both are removedbecause they give a messy appear-ance and increase disease problems.They are removed with hand prunersor hand saws on trees like hawthorn,viburnum, fringetree and dogwood.To shape woody plants. Asyoung trees, shrubs and vines beginto mature and gain height, lowerbranches may be pruned off to cre-ate space for planting beds under-neath. Wide-arching side branchesare pruned when they grow out ofcontrol. While this can be done at

anytime, it is best done just afterflowering to ensure blooming thenext year.

Multi-stemmed trees and shrubs arepruned either to maintain an uprighttree or low-bushy appearance. Tocreate a tree-like look, new vigorous

growth is removed and old stems arekept. Dogwood, fringetree, south-ern blackhaw viburnum, green haw-thorne, serviceberry, pagoda dog-wood and buckeye benefit from thistreatment.

If a shrubby screen-like appearanceis desired, older trunks are removed,leaving young stems. Hazelnut,rough-leaved and gray dogwood andsumac are used in this treatment.

To rejuvenate shrubs. Shrubssuch as wild hydrangea, Alabamasnowwreath, golden currant, andMissouri gooseberry benefit from arejuvinating pruning every three tofive years. First trim back shrub by40-60% with shears. Then removeone third of the old canes to theground with hand pruners.

When using hand pruners the cuttingblade (black) is always on the side of thecut that remains. The anvil (silver) is tothe outside. Always keep the blade sharpand be careful not to cut yourself. Handpruner cuts are the leading cause of inju-ry in most gardens.


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Thin growth. Trees and shrubsgrowing in full sun often developdense branching that requires thin-ning. The same tree, growingin shade, tends to remain open.Remove all crossing, rubbing, deador damaged stems in the interiorof the plant and work outward. Itis desirable to open views into thecenter of a tree or shrub to revealinteresting bark and branching.Hornbeam, southern blackhaw vibur-num, spicebush, red buckeye, red-bud, pagoda dogwood, yellowood,and witchazel benefit from this treat-

ment.

Promote reblooming.Deadheading (removal of spentflowers) on perennials and annualsstimulates more blooming. Be sure toremove faded flowers before seedsripen since ripe seed is a signal tothe plant to stop blooming. Thismethod works well on Missouri eve-ning primrose, rose verbena, core-

opsis, black-eyed Susan, and nativeannuals such as sneezeweed andpalafox.

Deadheading also prevents reseed-ing. If reseeding is a problem,increase mulch frequency and depthor remove the reseeding plant. Keepin mind that birds and small mam-mals depend on seeds for winterfood. Stop deadheading in late sum-mer to allow late crop seeds to ripen.

Control height.Spring top-pruning (or spring haircuts) of thetaller, late-summer-to-fall-bloomingperennials and grasses reducesplant height and prevents flopping.

Remove the top 40-60% of springgrowth late April through mid-May,using hedge shears or hand pruners.Plants pruned this way become multi-branched, fuller and shorter overall.Flowering species that respond wellto this include aster, Joe-Pye weed,sneezeweed, rose mallow, turtlehead,

garden phlox, goldenrod, and iron-weed. The grasses include big

bluestem, Indian grass, switchgrass,cordgrass, and eastern gama grass.



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When pruning medium-sized branches, always make a small undercut first (left)and then finish the cut with an overcut (right). This prevents the bark from tearingdownward when the branch falls.


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Typical Garden Schedule

Summer and Fall - Year 1

Map out the site, noting existingand future use, traffic patterns,utilities, trees, water flows, poorlydrained areas, wildlife use, desir-able and undesirable views.Assess the site for drainage, soiltype, sun, shade and utilities.

Choose the site, the plant palette(plants you want to include), thelandscape style and layout for thegarden (you likely will be selectinghardscape features like pathways,fences, patios, water features,walls, containers, outdoor pizzaovens and other features at this

time).Layout the garden areas andrelated elements of the site and

calculate square footage for eachportion individually. This numberhelps you predict the number ofplants or materials needed.Remove weeds and undesirablegrowth by hand, with Round-up(glyphosphate) or by layeringnewspaper and covering it withmulch.Grade and amend soil if neces-sary; then mulch if you will not be

planting right away.Autumn is the second best timeto plant. Perennials and grassescan be planted in September andOctober. Plant quart size contain-ers or larger. Trees and shrubsmay be planted from Septemberthrough November.Mulch new plantings immediatelyas mulch helps maintain soil mois-ture and steadies soil tempera-ture.Water new plantings immediately.

Winter - Year 1

October through March is a goodtime to construct patios, pathsand walls.Fall-planted trees and shrubs mayneed watering during severely dry

periods.

Spring - Year 2

Spring is the best time to plant.Planting may begin in mid-Marchand continue until the end of May.

Taller, late-summer blooming perenni-als and grasses may be sheared back by40-60% in late May to control height andprevent flopping.


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If you plant after June 1st, waterperiodically during planting andthen every three days until plantsare established.

Remove weeds as they appear.Water as needed.Top-prune perennials and grass-es late April through mid May toreduce flowering height and pre-vent flopping.

Summer - Year 2

Be vigilant and remove weeds asthey appear.Provide a deep watering whenneeded rather than frequent, shal-low watering.Summer planting is not recom-mended due to heat and unpredict-able rainfall.

Fall/Winter - Year 2

Continue to be vigilant and removewinter weeds as they appear.Water newly planted trees andshrubs by hand if winter droughtoccurs.Reapply mulch to thin areas.Be careful to not mulch where youwant plants to spread by reseed-ing. This is the trick to gettingwoodland plants like wood poppy,

Virginia bluebells, blue-eyed Mary,wild geranium, bloodroot and oth-ers to spread.

Plant Selection Guide

Top Performing Native Plantsfor Landscaping

Based on:

3-4 seasons of interestlong life expectancycompact form or slow growthavailability from nurseries

Full Sun

Grasses and Sedges:Carex albicans (oak sedge)Carex annectens (yellow-fruited foxsedge)Carex muskingumensis (palm sedge)Sporobolus heterolepis (prairie dropseed)

Perennials:Amsonia illustris (shining bluestar)

Asclepias tuberosa (butterfly milkweed)Aster oblongifolius (aromatic aster)Baptisia sphaerocarpa (yellow wild indi-go)Callirhoe involucrata (purple poppy mal-low)Heuchera richardsonii (prairie alumroot)Iris fulva (copper iris)Pycnanthemum tenuifolium (slendermountain mint)Rudbeckia fulgida (orange coneflower)

Small Flowering Trees and Shrubs:Amelanchier arborea (serviceberry)Callicarpa americana (beautyberry)Cercis canadensis (redbud)Crataegus viridis (green hawthorn)Hydrangea arborescens (wild hydrangea)Ilex verticillata (winterberry holly)Ribes odoratum (golden currant)



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Part Shade

Aster oblongifolius (aromatic aster)

Carex albicans (oak sedge)Carex eburnea (ivory sedge)Carex grayii (bur sedge)Carex muskingumensis (palm sedge)Echinacea purpurea (purple coneflower)Heuchera americana (American alum-root)Heuchera richardsonii (prairie alum-root)Polygonatum biflorum (Solomons seal)Solidago flexicaulis (broad-leaved gold-enrod)Spigelia marilandica (Indian pink)

Small Flowering Trees and Shrubs:Amelanchier arborea (serviceberry)Aronia melanocarpa (black chokeberry)Callicarpa americana (beautyberry)Carpinus caroliniana (hornbeam)Cornus florida (flowering dogwood)Hamamelis vernalis (Ozark witch hazel)Hydrangea arborescens (wild hydrangea)Ilex verticillata (winterberry holly)Ribes odoratum (golden currant)

Shade

Ferns:Adiantum pedatum (Maidenhair fern)Athyrium pycnocarpon (silvery spleen-wort)Onoclea sensibilis (sensitive fern)Polystichum acrostichoides (Christmasfern)

Grasses and Sedges:Carex albicans (oak sedge)Carex eburnea (ivory sedge)Carex grayii (bur sedge)Carex muskingumensis (palm sedge)

Perennials:Asarum canadense (wild ginger)Geranium maculatum (wild geranium)

Heuchera Americana (American alum-root)Iris cristata (dwarf crested iris)Polygonatum biflorum (Solomons seal)

Solidago flexicaulis (zig-zag goldenrod)Spigelia marilandica (Indian pink)

Small Flowering Trees and Shrubs:Amelanchier arborea (serviceberry)Callicarpa americana (beautyberry)Cornus alternifolia (pagoda dogwood)C. florida (flowering dogwood)Dirca palustris (leatherwood)Hamamelis virginiana (Eastern witch

hazel)

Native Groundcovers

*Plants that spread rapidly by rhizomes

and develop into large colonies. Thesespecies require large areas and contain-ment.

Shade

Grasses & sedges:Carex albicans (oak sedge)C. eburnea (ivory sedge)

The 12-inch native groundcover field sedge(Carex praegracilis) growing in a solidmass at Shaw Nature Reseve reducesmaintenance, tolerates poorly drained claysoils and suppresses weeds.


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C. emoryii* (riverbank sedge)C. grayii (bur sedge)C. jamesii (James sedge)C. muskingumensis (palm sedge)

C. pennsylvanica (Pennsylvania sedge)Diarrhena obovata* (beak grass)Chasmanthium latifolium (river oats)

Perennials:Antennaria parlinii (pussytoes)Asarum canadense (wild ginger)Chelone obliqua (rose turtlehead)Erigeron pulchellus (Robins fleabane)Helianthus divaricatus* (woodland sun-flower)Hydrophyllum virginianum* (Virginia water-

leaf)Heuchera americana (American alumroot)H. parviflora (littleflower alumroot)Iris cristata (dwarf crested iris)Isopyrum biternatum (false rue anemone)Monarda bradburiana (Bradbury beebalm)Sedum ternatum (woodland stonecrop)Senecio aureus* (golden groundsel)S. obovatus* (round-leaved groundsel)Solidago flexicaulis (zig-zag goldenrod)

Ferns:Athyrium pynocarpon (narrow-leavedspleenwort)Onoclea sensibilis (sensitive fern)Matteuccia struthiopteris (ostrich fern)

Full Sun

Grasses and sedges:Carex annectens (yellow-fruited fox sedge)C. buxbaumii* (Buxbaum sedge)

C. emoryi* (Riverbank sedge)C. hystericina* (bottlebrush sedge)C. lanuginosa* (wooly sedge)C. muskingumensis (palm sedge)C. praegracilis* (tollway sedge)C. stricta* (tussock sedge)Panicum virgatum (switch grass)Schizachyrium scoparium (little bluestem)Sporobolus heterolepis (prairie dropseed)Spartina pectinata* (cord grass)

Perennials:Achillea millefolium (yarrow)Amsonia illustris (shining bluestar)Anemone canadensis* (meadow anemone)

Artemisia ludoviciana* (wormwood)Aster oblongifolius (aromatic aster)Chelone obliqua (rose turtlehead)Fragaria virginiana* (wild strawberry)Helianthus occidentalis*(western sunflower)H. mollis* (ashy sunflower)Heuchera richardsonii (prairie alumroot)Iris virginica (southern blue flag)Iris fulva (copper iris)Oenothera macrocarpa (Missouri eveningprimrose)Parthenium hispidum (American feverfew)

Rudbeckia fulgida (orange coneflower)Verbena canadensis (rose verbena)

Shrubs:Andrachne phyllanthoides (Missouri maid-enbush)Hydrangea arborescens (w. hydrangea)Ribes odoratum (golden currant)Rhus copallina* (winged sumac)

*Plants that spread rapidly by rhizomes

and develop into large colonies. These spe-cies require large areas.

Clay Soil Conditions

*Plants that tend to spread from seed

Grasses and Sedges:Bouteloua curtipendula (sideoats grama)Carex annectens (yellow-fruited fox sedge)Carex muskingumensis (palm sedge)Schizachyrium scoparium (little bluestem)Sporobolus heterolepis (prairie dropseed)

Perennials:Allium cernuum (nodding wild onion)Allium stellatum (fall glade onion)Amsonia illustris (shining bluestar)Asclepias tuberosa (butterfly flower)Aster novae-angliae* (New Eng. aster)



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Baptisia bracteata var. leucophaea(cream wild indigo)Coreopsis lanceolata* (lance-leaved core-opsis)Coreopsis palmata (finger coreopsis)Dalea candida (white prairie clover)Dalea purpurea (purple prairie clover)Echinacea purpurea* (purple coneflower)Eryngium yuccifolium (rattlesnake mas-ter)Heliopsis helianthoides (false sunflower)

Liatris pycnostachya (prairie blazing star)Liatris spicata (marsh blazing star)Monarda fistulosa (wild bergamot)Parthenium hispidum (American feverfew)Parthenium integrifolium (wild quinine)Penstemon digitalis (smooth beard-tongue)Polygonatum biflorum var. commutatum(Solomons seal)Ratibida columnifera (Mexican hat)Ratibida pinnata* (grayhead coneflower)

Rudbeckia fulgida (orange coneflower)Rudbeckia hirta (black-eyed Susan)Silphium integrifolium (rosinweed)Silphium laciniatum (compass plant)Silphium perfoliatum* (cup plant)Solidago rigida* (stiff goldenrod)Solidago speciosa (showy goldenrod)Tradescantia ohiensis* (Ohio spiderwort)Vernonia arkansana (Arkansas ironweed)Zizia aurea* (golden Alexander

Small Flowering Trees and Shrubs:Aronia melanocarpa (black chokeberry)Crataegus viridis (green hawthorn)Hamamelis vernalis (Ozark witch hazel)Hydrangea arborescens (wild hydrangea)Ilex verticillata (winterberry holly)

Screening with Shrubs

Aronia melanocarpa (black chokeberry)Arundinaria gigantea (giant cane)Cornus racemosa (gray dogwood)Cornus drummondii (rough-leaved dog-wood)Cornus alternifolia (pagoda dogwood)Corylus americana (hazelnut)Hydrangea arborescens (wild hydrangea)Hypericum prolificum (shrubby St. Johnswort)Ilex decidua (deciduous holly)

Ilex verticillata (winterberry holly)Neviusia alabamensis (Alabama snowwreath)Physocarpus opulifolius (ninebark)Rhus copallina (winged sumac)Rhus glabra (smooth sumac)Salix humilis (prairie willow)Sambucus canadensis (elderberry)S. racemosa (red-berried elderberry)

Prairie dropseed (Sporobolus heter-olepis) growing as a groundcover atMissouri Botanical Garden.

Palm sedge (Carex muskingumensis) tol-erates clay soils and can grow in sun orshade.


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Staphylea trifoliata (bladdernut)Viburnum dentatum (arrowwood)Viburnum prunifolium (northern blackhaw)

Hedges

Aesculus pavia (red buckeye 10-15)Amsonia illustris (shining bluestar 3-4)Andrachne phyllanthoides (Missouri maid-enbush 3-4)Aronia melanocarpa (black chokeberry5-6)Callicarpa americana (beautyberry 4-5)Dirca palustris (leatherwood 3-5)

Hydrangea arborescens (wild hydrangea3-4)Ilex verticillata cultivars (winterberry 4-6)Neviusia alabamensis (Alabama snowreath6-8)Ostrya virginiana (hop hornbeam 15-20Ribes missouriense (Missouri gooseberry3-4, thorns)Staphylea trifoliata (bladderpod 6-8)Viburnum dentatum (arrowwood viburnum5-7)Viburnum molle (Kentucky viburnum 6-8)

Limestone Soils (7.5 pH orhigher)

Grasses and Sedges:

Bouteloua curtipendula (sideoats grama)Schizachyrium scoparium (little bluestem)Sporobolus heterolepis (prairie dropseed)

Perennials:Parthenium hispidum (American feverfew)Pycnanthemum tenuifolium (slendermountain mint)Salvia azurea (pitcher sage)Sedum ternatum (wild stonecrop)Senecio obovatus (round-leaved ground-

sel)Senna marilandica (wild senna)Sporobolus heterolepis (prairie dropseed)Verbena canadensis (rose verbena)Verbesina helianthoides (yellow wingstem)

Small Flowering Trees and Shrubs:Andrachne phyllanthoides (Missouri maid-enbush)Ilex decidua (possum haw)Juniperus virginiana (eastern red cedar)Physocarpus opulifolius (ninebark)

Ptelea trifoliata (wafer ash)



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Bladdernut (Staphylea trifoliata) forms adense screen with dark green leaves andlime-green seed pods in summer.

Shining bluestar (Amsonia illustris)hedge along walkway.


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Cercis canadensis (redbud)Quercus meuhlenbergii (chinquapin oak)

Acidic Soils (pH of 5.5 or lower)

Grasses and Sedges:Andropogon gerardii (big bluestem)Andropogon virginica (broomsedge)Andropogon ternarius (splitbeard bluestem)Carex hirsutella (fuzzy-wuzzy sedge)Juncus biflorus (bog rush)Schizachyrium scoparium (little bluestem)

Perennials:Amsonia illustris (shining bluestar)Chrysopsis camporum (golden aster)Coreopsis lanceolata (lance-leaf coreopsis)Juncus tenuis (path rush)Lespedeza virginica (slender lespedeza)Lespedeza violacea (violet lespedeza)Monarda fistulosa (wild bergamot)Parthenium integrifolium (wild quinine)Penstemon digitalis (smooth beard-tongue)Solidago nemoralis (old field goldenrod)Tephrosia virginiana (goats beard)Verbesina helianthoides (yellow wingstem)

Trees and shrubs:Amelanchier arborea (serviceberry)Aronia melanocarpa (black chokeberry)Itea virginica (Virginia sweet-spire)Polygonella americana (jointweed)Quercus coccinea (scarlet oak)Nyssa sylvatica (black gum)Rhododendron prinophyllum (mountainazalea)Pinus echinata (shortleaf pine)

Full Shade with Rich Moist Soil(all-day shade)

Grasses and sedges:Carex grayii (bur sedge)Carex jamesii (grass sedge)

Carex lurida (sallow sedge)Carex muskingumensis (palm sedge)Chasmanthium latifolium (creek oats)Ferns:Adiantum pedatum (maidenhair fern)Athyrium filix-femina (lady fern)Athyrium pycnocarpon (narrow-leavedspleenwort)Cystopteris fragilis (fragile fern)Matteuccia struthiopteris (ostrich fern)Thelypteris hexagonoptera (broad beechfern)Woodsia obtusa (common wood fern)

Perennials:Actaea pachypoda (dolls eyes)

Arisaema dracontium (green dragon)Arisaema triphyllum (Jack-in-the pulpit)Aruncus dioicus (goatsbeard)Asarum canadense (wild ginger)Aster drummondii (Drummond aster)Cacalia atriplicifolia (pale Indian plantain)Cacalia muehlenbergii (great Indian plan-tain)Caulophyllum thalictroides (blue cohosh)Claytonia virginica (spring beauty)Collinsia verna (blue-eyed Mary)Delphinium tricorne (dwarf larkspur)Erigeron philadelphicus (Philadelphia flea-bane)Erigeron philadelphicus (Philadelphia flea-bane)Geranium maculatum (wild geranium)Maianthemum racemosum (Solomonsplume)Mertensia virginica (Virginia bluebells)Onoclea sensibilis (sensitive fern)Osmorhiza longistylis (sweet Cicely)Phacelia purshii (Miami mist)

Podophyllum peltatum (mayapple)Polemonium reptans (Jacobs ladder)Polygonatum biflorum (Solomons seal)Sanguinaria canadensis (bloodroot)Senecio aureus (golden groundsel)Solidago flexicaulis (broad-leaved golden-rod)Solidago rugosa (rough-leaved goldenrod)Spigelia marilandica (Indian pink)


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Stylophorum diphyllum (celandine poppy)Tradescantia ernestiana (Palmers spider-wort)Tradescantia subaspera (zigzag spider-wort)Uvularia grandiflora (bellwort)Viola pubescens (yellow violet)Viola striata (cream violet)

Small Flowering Trees and Shrubs:Cornus alternifolia (pagoda dogwood)Aesculus glabra (Ohio buckeye)A. pavia (red buckeye)Aralia spinosa (Hercules club)Lindera benzoin (spicebush)

Magnolia acuminata (cucumbertree)Sambucus racemosa (red-berried elder-berry)

Part Shade with Dry Soil(morning or afternoon shade)

Grasses and Sedges:Carex albicans (oak sedge)Carex eburnea (ivory sedge)

Carex grayi (globe sedge)Carex jamesii (grass sedge)Carex muskingumensis (palm sedge)Chasmanthium latifolium (creek oats)Diarrhena obovata (American beakgrain)Elymus hystrix (bottlebrush grass)

Perennials:Anemone virginiana (thimbleweed)Aquilegia canadensis (wild columbine)Aruncus dioicus (goatsbeard)Asarum canadense (wild ginger)Asclepias purpurascens (purple milkweed)Aster anomalus (soft blue aster)Aster oblongifolius (aromatic aster)Aster patens (purple daisy)Aster turbinellus (prairie aster)Baptisia bracteata (cream wild indigo)Blephilia ciliata (Ohio horsemint)Camassia scilloides (wild hyacinth)Campanula americana (American bellflow-er)

Cimicifuga racemosa (black cohosh)Claytonia virginica (spring beauty)Delphinium exaltatum (tall larkspur)Delphinium tricorne (dwarf larkspur)Echinacea purpurea (purple coneflower)Erigeron pulchellus (robins plantain)Gentiana andrewsii (bottle gentian)Geranium maculatum (wild geranium)Heuchera parviflora (downy alumroot)Heuchera villosa (alumroot)Hydrastis canadensis (goldenseal)Iris cristata (dwarf crested iris)

Melica nitens (tall melic grass)Monarda bradburiana (Bradbury beebalm)Osmorhiza longistylis (sweet Cicely)Penstemon pallidus (pale beard-tongue)Phlox divaricata (wild sweet William)Phlox paniculata (garden phlox)Polemonium reptans (Jacobs ladder)Polygonatum biflorum (Solomons seal)



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Dry woodlandsoften have

naturally grow-ing white oak,post oak, chin-quapin oak,and shagbarkhickory.


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Polygonum virginianum (Virginia knot-weed)Porteranthus stipulatus (Indian physic)Pycnanthemum albescens (white moun-

tain mint)Scutellaria incana (hoary skullcap)Scutellaria ovata (heart-leaved skullcap)Sedum ternatum (wild stonecrop)Senecio obovatus (round-leaved ground-sel)Senna marilandica (wild senna)Silene stellata (starry campion)Solidago caesia (blue-stemmed goldenrod)Solidago flexicaulis (zigzag goldenrod)Solidago ulmifolia (elmleaf goldenrod)

Spigelia marilandica (Indian pink)Stylophorum diphyllum (celandine poppy)Tradescantia subaspera (zig-zag spider-wort)Uvularia grandiflora (bellwort)Verbesina helianthoides (yellow wingstem)Zizia aurea (golden Alexander)

Small Flowering Trees and Shrubs:Amelanchier arborea (serviceberry)Bumelia lanuginosa (gum bumelia)Callicarpa americana (beautyberry)

Carpinus caroliniana (hornbeam)Cercis canadensis (redbud)Cornus alternifolia (pagoda dogwood)C. florida (flowering dogwood)Dirca palustris (leatherwood)Neviusia alabamensis (Alabama snowwreath)Ostrya virginiana (hop hornbeam)Viburnum molle (Kentucky viburnum)V. prunifolium (northern blackhaw)V. rufidulum (rusty blackhaw)

Woodland Plants that Spreadby Seed

Dry Soils:Grasses and Sedges:Bromus pubescens (woodland brome)Chasmanthium latifolium (river oats)Diarrhena obovata (beak grass)

Elymus hystrix (bottlebrush grass)Elymus virginicus (woodland wild rye)

Perennials:

Aquilegia canadensis (wild columbine )Aster drummondii (Drummond aster)Campanula americana (Amer. bellflower)Echinacea purpurea (purple coneflower)Geranium maculatum (wild geranium)Mertensia virginica (Virginia bluebellsPhlox divaricata (wild sweet William)Phlox paniculata (meadow phlox)Polemonium reptans (Jacobs ladder)Scutellaria incana (downy skullcap)Solidago caesia (blue-stem goldenrod)

Solidago flexicaulis (zig-zag goldenrod)Stylophorum diphyllum (wood poppy)Tradescantia ernestiana (Palmers spider-wort)Viola pubescens (yellow violet)Viola sororia (common violet)Viola striata (cream violet)

Wood poppy (Stylophorum diphyllum) andVirginia bluebell (Mertensia virginica) spreadfrom seed in the Whitmire Wildflower Garden.


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Well-drained Dry or Rocky Soil(full sun)

Grasses and Sedges:Bouteloua curtipendula (sideoats grama)Koeleria macrantha (June grass)Schizachyrium scoparium (little bluestem)Sporobolus heterolepis (prairie dropseed)

Perennials:Allium cernuum (nodding wild onion)Allium stellatum (fall glade onion)Amorpha canescens (leadplant)Amsonia ciliata var. filifolia (feathery bluestar)

Asclepias tuberosa (butterfly flower)Aster oblongifolius (aromatic aster)Aster oolentangiensis (sky blue aster)Aster paludosus (prairie aster)Baptisia australis (blue wild indigo)Calamintha arkansana (calamint)Callirhoe digitata (fringed poppy mallow)Castilleja coccinea (Indian paintbrush)Ceanothus americanus (New Jersey tea)star)Clematis fremontii (Fremonts leather flow-er)Dalea candida (white prairie clover)Dalea purpurea (purple prairie clover)Delphinium carolinianum (Carolina lark-spur)Echinacea pallida (pale purple coneflower)Echinacea simulata (glade coneflower)Erysimum capitatum* (western wallflower)Hedyotis longifolia (longleaf bluet)Liatris mucronata (bottlebrush blazingstar)Manfreda virginica (American aloe)Marshallia caespitosa (Barbaras buttons)

Oenothera macrocarpa (Missouri eveningprimrose)Palafoxia callosa* (palafoxia)Parthenium hispidum (American feverfew)Penstemon cobaea (showy beard-tongue)Penstemon pallidus (pale beard-tongue)

Phlox bifida (sand phlox)Phlox pilosa (hairy phlox)Pycnanthemum tenuifolium (slender moun-tain mint)

Ratibida columnifera (Mexican hat)Rudbeckia missouriensis (Missouri black-eyed Susan)Ruellia humilis (hairy wild petunia)Salvia azurea (pitcher sage)Sedum pulchellum (widows cross)Senecio plattensis (prairie ragwort)Silene caroliniana (wild pink)Silene regia (royal catchfly)Silene virginica (fire pink)Silphium terebinthinaceum (prairie dock)

Solidago gattingeri (Gattingers goldenrod)Taenidia integerrima (yellow pimpernel)Talinum calycinum* (rock pink)Trichostema dichotomum* (blue curls)Verbena canadensis (rose verbena)Yucca glauca (soapweed yucca)

Annuals*

Small Flowering Trees and Shrubs:Callicarpa americana (beautyberry)Cercis canadensis (redbud)

Chionanthus virginicus (fringetree)Corylus americana (Hazelnut)Cotinus obovatus (Smoke tree)Juniperus virginiana (eastern red cedar)Rhus aromatica (fragrant sumac)

Resistance to Deer Browse

Most Resistant:

Achillea millefolium (yarrow)Adiantum pedatum (maidenhair fern)Agastache nepetoides (giant hyssop)


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Allium stellatum (fall glade onion)Amsonia ciliata (feathery bluestar)Amsonia illustris (shining bluestar)

Andropogon gerardii (big bluestem)Asclepias incarnata (swamp milkweed)Asclepias viridis (spider milkweed)Carex annectens (yellow-fruited foxsedge)Carex muskingumensis (palm sedge)Carex stricta (tussock sedge)Coreopsis tinctoria (Plains coreopsis)Delphinium exaltatum (tall larkspur)Eryngium yuccifolium (rattlesnake master)Erysimum capitatum (western wallflower)Helenium autumnale (autumn sneeze-

weed)Hibiscus lasiocarpos (woolly rose mallow)Iris cristata (dwarf crested iris)Iris virginica (blue flag iris)Juncus effusus (soft rush)Monarda bradburiana (Bradbury beebalm)Onoclea sensibilis (sensitive fern)Palafoxia callosa (palafoxia)Panicum virgatum (switch grass)Physostegia virginiana (obedient plant)Polystichum acrostichoides (Christmasfern)Pycnanthemum pilosum (hairy mountainmint)Pycnanthemum tenuifolium (slendermountain mint)Pycnanthemum virginianum (mountainmint)Salvia azurea (pitcher sage)Schizachyrium scoparium (little bluestem)Scutellaria incana (hoary skullcap)Scutellaria ovata (heart-leaved skullcap)Sedum ternatum (wild stonecrop)

Senecio obovatus (round-leaved ground-sel)Senna marilandica (wild senna)Sporobolus heterolepis (prairie dropseed)Verbena canadensis (rose verbena)Verbesina helianthoides (yellow wing-stem)

Somewhat Resistant to deer browse:

Aquilegia canadensis (wild columbine)

Aruncus dioicus (goatsbeard)Asclepias tuberosa (butterfly flower)Aster oblongifolius (aromatic aster)Aster oolentangiensis (sky blue aster)Aster patens (purple daisy)Baptisia australis (blue wild indigo)Blephilia ciliata (Ohio horsemint)Chelone obliqua (rose turtlehead)Coreopsis lanceolata (lance-leaved core-opsis)Echinacea simulata (glade coneflower)Elymus canadensis (Canada wild rye)

Eupatorium purpureum (Joe Pye weed)Grindelia lanceolata (gum plant)Helianthus maximiliani (Maximilian sun-flower)Heliopsis helianthoides (false sunflower)Heuchera richardsonii (prairie alumroot)Liatris pycnostachya (prairie blazing star)Lobelia cardinalis (cardinal flower)Lobelia siphilitica (blue lobelia)Mimulus ringens (monkeyflower)Monarda fistulosa (wild bergamot)Penstemon digitalis (smooth beard-tongue)Phlox paniculata (garden phlox)Polemonium reptans (Jacobs ladder)Rudbeckia fulgida (orange coneflower)Rudbeckia subtomentosa (sweet cone-flower)Ruellia humilis (hairy wild petunia)Silene regia (royal catchfly)Solidago caesia (blue-stemmed golden-rod)Solidago drummondii (cliff goldenrod)

Solidago nemoralis (gray goldenrod)Solidago riddellii (Riddells goldenrod)Stylophorum diphyllum (celandine poppy)Vernonia arkansana (Arkansas ironweed)Veronicastrum virginicum (culvers root)Zizia aurea (golden Alexander)


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Native Vines

Aristolochia tomentosa* (wooly pipe-vine)Berchemia scandans** (supplejack)Bignonia capreolata* (crossvine)Brunnichia ovata* (ladies eardrops)Campsis radicans* (trumpet creeper)Celastrus scandens* ** (American bitter-sweet)Clematis pitcheri (Pitchers leather flower)Clematis versicolor (pale leather flower)Cocculus carolinus (Carolina moonseed)Lonicera flava (yellow honeysuckle)

Matalea decipiens (climbing milkweed)Parthenocissus quinquefolia* (Virginiacreeper)Passiflora incarnata* (passionflower)Passiflora lutea (yellow passionflower)Rosa setigera (prairie rose, may betrained like a vine)Wisteria frutescens* (wisteria)

*Aggressive spreading, isolate or plant incontainer

**Dioecious: Male and female flowers onseparate plants. Requires one male andone female plant for fruit production.

Prairie Plantssee Chapter 1: ReconstructingTallgrass Prairies

Rain Garden Plants

see Chapter 2: Rain Gardening andStormwater Managment

Invasive Plantssee Chapter 3: Control and ID ofInvasive Species


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P.O. Box 38Gray Summit, MO 63039

(636) 451-3512

www.shawnature.org

Copyright 2011 SNR


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Documents

Landscaping with Native Plants: A Gardener’s Guide for Missouri