КОЗМЕТИЧКИ ПРОИЗВОДИКозметичките производи оригинално се дефинирани како “ Средства за употреба “ односно како производи за чистење, нега , боењеили разубавување на кожата , косата, ноктите или усната шуплина . Исто така козметичките продукти се дефинират како :Субстанции или смеса од супстанции кој се за надворешна употреба кај луѓето или во усната шуплина за чистење, нега , или да влијаат на појавата , мирисот на телото да обезбедат мирисни импресии освен ако првично не се наменети да третираат или отстранат болка , или повреди на телото .Супстанции или смеси од супстанции кој се наменети за чистењена забите имаат еднаков статус на козметички производи .На козметичкиот производ со претходфните дефиниции им се дава пошироко значење но истовреме јасно се одвојуваат од лековите и останатите медицински препарати .ТИПОВИ НА КОЗМЕТИЧКИ ПРОИЗВОДИНеопходноста да се чисти кожата и нејзините израстоци како штосе косата .ноктите усната шуплина , и да се подобри нивниот изглед ја наметнува потребата истите да се доведат во контакт со супстанции кој имаат соодветни особини за постигнување на овие цели .Многу често за исполнување на претходните барања се потребни многу мали количини кој можат да се нанесат во разредена форма .Ова е особено важно кога е поптребно да се третираат големи делови од кожата ил кога треба да се избегнат потенцијални лоши ефекти кои можат да се постигнат кога супстанцијата е високо концентрирана .Козметичкиот производ треба да биде понуден во форма која го олесснува користењето за да потрошувачот може едноставно да го постигне бараниот ефект .Козметичките производи се појавуваат во различни форми и повеќетоод нив се произведуваат со вклучување на (ПАМ –Површинско Активни Материи ) и нивното додавање се покажува како предност .Постојат повеќе употребни форми и тоа : РАСТВОРИ Растворите кој се наречени води , тоници или лосиони се наједноставните типови на смеси .Тие се безбојни или обоени , најчесто со мирисна компонентна , водени , водено алкохолни или содржат други растворувачи .Тие содржат зависно од нивната употребна цел една или неколку супстанции со специфични особини ( активни сосотојки ) и маслени компоненти за нега на косата или кожата.Повеќето супстанции кој се воведени во соодветниот раствор мора ада се држат растворени со додавање на агенси за растворање , површинско активни материи .Вискозитетот ( густината ) на смесата исто така може да се дотера во зависност од примената со додавање на хидроколоиди или специјални регулатори на вискозитетот .Растворите кој содржат освежувачки или супстанции кој ја помогнуваат циркулацијата се наречени ТОНИЦИ или ЛОСИОНИ .Најчесто тоа се емулзии од типот масло во вода ( O/ W Oil in Water Emulsions ) , со висока содржина на вода . Тоа се ниско вискозни смеси кој овозможуваат апликација на лице , на големи површини на кожата и попследователнооставаат мали количини на маслени супстанции на површината на кожата .КОЛОИДНИ РАСТВОРИ ( ГЕЛОВИ ) Голем број на супстанции формираат колоидни раствори со вода или други растворувачи , кој понатаму можат да формираат гелови .Во најголем случај геловите се водени раствори на водо нерастворливи но хидратирачки супстанции со големина на честички на колоидни димензии .Геловите најчесто се формираат со растворање на цврстите компоненти после додавање на вода или други соодветни растворувачи . Исто така можат да содржат соодветни адитиви ( додатни компоненти ) .

1

СУСПЕНЗИИСуспензиите се дисперзирани системи во кој внатрешната фаза се состои од водо нерастворливи мали цврсти делови и надврешна фаза ( означена како носач или распределувачки флуид ) кој што содржи течност компатибилна со кожата најчесто вода која исто така може да содржи навлажнувачки агенс .После аплицирањето на кожата суспензиите треба да остават континуиран филм . Исто како растворите содржат соодветни активни компоненти , на пример активни состојки за нега на кожата .МАСЛА Маслата историски се најстарите смеси користени за лична нега .Воглавно се содржат од масти , масни субстанции или од смеси од овие кој се течни на собна температура .Маслата можат да имаат разни адитиви кој се воведени со растворот со разни растворувачи воколку не се самите растворливи во основата .Маслата се делат на малса за кожа или масажни масла .Маслата за кожа кој најчесто содржат незаситени компоненти кој морат да се заштитат со додавање на антиоксиданси за блокирање на оксидативните напади .Продуктите на оксидација можат да предизвикаат иритација на кожата илидруги несакани ефекти .Од особена важност се хидрофилните масла којпокрај мастите и масните субстанции исто така соддржат специјални компоненти –површинско активни материи .Во соодветен состав овие масла не само што имаат добри особини за нега на кожата туку имаат и предност што лесно се распределуваат на кожата и можат лесно да се измијат ( одстранат ) со вода .ЕМУЛЗИИ Емулзии се фино распределени системи од најмалку две течности кој се немешливи една со друга. Присуството на систем за емулгирање ( мешање ) е предуслов за формирање на емулзијата . Постојат разни емулгатори со кој можат да се создадат или W/O ( ВОДА / МАСЛО емулзии ) или O/W ( МАСЛО / ВОДА емулзии ) .Целта на емулзијата може да биде или нега на кожата или последоватерлно ( споро ) ослободување на вклучените активни состојки на кожата за да се предизвика специфичен ефект на површината на кожата . во епидермисот или во внатрешниот слој ( Stratum corneum ) .КРЕМИ Кремите се во основа O/W или W/O ( вода / масло или масло/вода ) емулзии со голем вискозитет. Обично се состојат од база за помада која содржи фино распределени додатни компоненти кој може да се нерастворливи во вода или во масна фаза .Кремите кој во основа обезбедуваат покривачки и заштитни особини може исто така да се применуваат за нега и заштита на кожа и тело како што е случајот кај заштита на бебешка кожа односно заштита од сонце .САПУНИСапуните се натриумови или калиумови соли на виши масни киселини кој воглавно се употребуваат како агенси за чистење .Калиумовите сапуни ( исто така познати како меки сапуни ) се најстарите познати помади ,бази и најчесто се користени во дерматологијата .Сапуните исто така можат да се произведуваат со смеси од други соодветни површинско активни материи кој се нарекуваат Syndet ( SYN thetic DET ergents ) , синтетски детергенти .Сепак треба да се нагласи дека сапуните како и останатите ПАМ се адсорбираат на кожата во значителна мера . Во одредени случаи може да дојде и до иритирање на кожата .Во секој случај погодно е потполно да се исплакнат рацете после секое миење .РАСТВОРИ НА ПАМ ( Течни Сапуни )Течните сапуни се транспарентни ( прозирни ) или заматени ( опалесцентни ) .некој имаат бисернобела боја и се карактеризираат со висока содржина на ПАМ .Овие смеси може да се на водена , водено/алкохолна база и можат да се нискло до средно вискозни а може да имаат и

2

особини на гел .ТЅечнитецсапуни сепак можат исто така да содржат специфични активни состојки кој се воведени во смесата со помошна растворувач или суспендирачки агенс Во козметичките производи исто така спаѓаат и СТИКОВИ , ПРАШАЦИ , ГРАНУЛАТИ , АЕРОСОЛИ И ЛАКОВИ сите со посебна област на примена и со соодветни состојки .

Козметичките производи се дефинираат како производи кој се дозволени само за надворешна употреба кај луѓето или во нивната усна шуплина .Терминот надворешен се однесува односно припаѓа на кожата и нејзините прирастоци : ноктите и косата .Површинско активните материи кој се соодветни за за козметичките производи мораат да обезбедат добро пенење и цапацитет за чистење во тврда и мека вода и дерматолошки да не подлегнуваат на промени за време на подолг период на употреба .Најчесто застапени ПАМ воп козметичките производи се :

Анјонски ПАМ ( Чистење на кожа и коса ) Сапуни во форма на алкални или етанол амини (( тоалет сапуни , Креми за

бричење ,емулзификатори во емулзиите ) Алкил Етер Сулфати Алкил Сулфати ( масни алкохол сулфати) ( главни компоненти на шампони и сапуни ) Секундарни Алкан Сулфонати ( силни одмастувбачки особини , во шампони за коса и

гелови за туширање . Алкил Амид Етер Сулфати ( со останти пам во секојдневните шампони детски и бебешки

производи шампони против првут . Акил Етер Сулфати (наоѓаат примена како емулгатори во креми за кожа и како адитиви во

производи за нега на коса ) Катјонски површинско активни материи - се користат во секторот за нега на коса во

кондиционери за коса или геловиза зацврстување на коса .Најчесто застапени се : Cetyl trimethyl ammonium chloride I bromide Disstearil dimethyl amonyum chloride iBenzyl dimethyl stearyl ammonium chloride Примарна апликација им е во кондиционери за коса .

Амфотерни ПАМ ( се користат во благи козметички производи како секојдневни шампони , бебешки производи лосиони за интимна хигиена по правило во комбинација со Анјонските ПАМ .

Нејоногени ПАМ ( воглавно се користат како емулгатори , стабилизатори на пена )

КЛАСИФИКАЦИЈА НА КОЗМЕТИЧКИ ПРОИЗВОДИ

Козметичките производи можат да се поделат во неколку групи : 1. Производи за нега на кожа

Производи за Бања Производи за чистење на кожа Производи за нега на кожа Производи за нега на очи Производи за нега на усни Производи за нега на нокти Производи за интимна хигиена Производи за нега на стопала

3

2. Козметички производи со специфична ефикасност Производи за заштита од сонце Производи за потемнување на кожа Производи за белење на кожа Производи за заштита од исецти Деодоранси Антиперспиранти Производи за нега на акни Производи за депилациј а Производи за бричење Парфеми

3. Производи за нега на усната шуплина

Производи за хигиена на усната шуплина Производи за чистење на заби

4. Производи за нега на коса Шампони Производи за нега на коса Производи за поставување , декорирање на коса Производи за бранување на косата Времени и постојани бои за коса

4

Во прилог се дадени мал избор на рамковни формулации кој даваат преглед на најважните групи Разгледувани претходно :

Тоалетен Сапун

Состав Пример ( % )ПАМСеквестирачки агенс Регулатори на густинаБоиОптички белилаАнтиоксиданси

Агенси за белењеМирисиВода

Сапун ( натриумова сол)Етилен диамин тетра ацетатНатриум хлорид

2.6-bis(1.1-Dimethylethyl)-4-methyl phenol( BHT ) Titanium dioxide

83-870,1 – 0,3Aprox.0.5 < 0.1 < 0.1 0.1-0.3

0.1-0.31.0-2.0Balance

Syndet

Состав Пример ( % )ПАМ

Агенси за повторно мастење ПластификаториПолнилаАктивни состојкиБоиМирисиВода

Lauril Sulfate Lauril Sulfo succinate Fatty alcoholsStearyl mono/diglyceridesStarchesSalicylic Acid

30-501-1210-200-100-100-1< 0.10-2Balance

Пена за бања и гел за туширање

Состав Пример ( % ) ( % )Foam bath Shower bath

ПАМ

Агенси за повторно мастење

Стабилизатори на пена КондиционериЗгуснувачиОпалесцентни агенси

Lauril еther Sulfate Coco amidopropil dimethil betaineEthoxylated fatty acids Fatty alcoholsEthoxylated fatty alcoholsFatty acid alkanol amides Quaternized hydroxypropil celluloseSodium ChlorideEthylenglycol stearateVegetable extracts

10-202-40.5-20.5-30.5-50.2-2-0-30-20-1

10-122-4--0-40-40-0.50-3-0-1

5

Активни агенсиКонзервансиБоиМирисиВода

5-Bromo-5-nitro-1.3-dioxane

0.10.1-0.20.3-3Balance

0.10.10.3-2Balance

КРЕМА ЗА КОЖА W/O ( ВОДА / МАСЛО емулзија ) и O/W ( МАСЛО / ВОДА емулзија )

Состав Пример ( % ) ( % )ВОДА / МАСЛО емулзија

МАСЛО / ВОДА емулзија

Емулгатори

Масни деривати

Овлажнувачи

СтабилизаториКонзервансиВода

Sorbitane sequioleateAluminium StearateTriethanoleamine stearateCetyl/Stearyl/Alcohol polyglycol ethersIsopropil palmitateCetyl/Stearyl alcohol2-Octyl dodecanolSteari/Palmitic AcidCaprylic/Capryc acidGlycerine stearateGlycerineSorbitolPoly ( hydroxy carboxylic acids)Propyleneglycol

Magnesium sulfatep-hydroxy benzoic acid ester

3-51-2--

1-5-2-10-5-10-1-51-50.5-2-

0-0.80.2-0.4Balance

--1-21-3

0-30-23-70-3-0-51-51-5-1-3

-0.2-0.4Balance

6

Кремите и лосионите за раце и тело се производи кој се користат за навлажнување и омекнување на телото и рацете .Најчесто тие претставуваат полуцврсти емулзии на масло и вода . Кремите и лосионите за тело и раце содржат специјални состојки кој помагаат во заменувањето на маслата кој ги содржи кожата или да ја спречат загубата на влагата од кожата . Безбедноста на кремите и лосионите се постигнува со селекција на состојки кој се сигурни и соодветни за целта за која се употребуваат истите .Постојат 18 групи на соеединенија кој најчесто се среќаваат во кремите и лосионите :

1. Алантоин 2. Карбомери3. Бои4. Мириси5. Глицерил Стеарат6. Минерални Масла 7. Пропилен Гликол8. Стеарил Алкохол9. Триетанол Амин10. Ботанички состојки11. Цетил Алкохол12. Диметикон13. Глицерин14. Ланолин15. Конзерванси 16. Стеаринска киселина 17. Токоферилацетат18. Вода

Алантоин е бел безбоен прашак .Тој и неговите соединенија го намалуваат појавувањето на сува и оштетена кожа со намалувањето на одвојувањто на лесни парченца од кожата .Тој исто така функционира како состојка која времено ја заштитува кожата од штетни и несакани влијанија и може да и даде олеснување на таква кожа .

Карбомер е термин кој се користи за група на соединенија полимери добиени од акрилна киселина .Карбомерите се бели , течни прашкасти материи кој најчесто се користат како гелови во козметичките и производите за лична хигиена . Карбомерите помагаат во распределба или суспендирање на нерастворлива цврста компонента во течна компонента .Тие исто се користат за да го спречат одвојувањето на компшонентите од емулзиите на малена и течна фаза .Исто така се користат за контролирање на густината и течливоста на козметичките и производите за лична хигиена . Бои се состојки кој сами или во комбинација со други состојки им ја дават или ја менуваат бојата на продуктите . Боите се користат за да го направат производот поатрактивен и попривлечен .Мириси се состојки кој се користат во козметичките и производите за лична хигиена за да ги направат по пријатни и препознатливи на потрошувачите .Многу потрошувачи сакаат парфимирани производи бидејки тие имаат пријатен ефект .Често пати одреден мирис има силна поврзаност со идентитетот на производот и неговата прифатеност од потрошувачите .Глицерил Стеарат и Глицерил Стеарат СЕ се естерификациони продукти на Глицерин и стеаринска киселина . Претставува бела или кремаста восочна материја . Има голема примена во козметичките и производите за лична хигиена . Ја подмачкува површината на кожата и притоа ја омекнува и мазни .Ја намалува загубата на вода од кожата со формирање на бариера на

7

нејзината површина .Исто така помага во формирањето на емулзии со намалување на површинскиот напон на компонентите кој треба да се емулгираат .Минерални Масла се бистри течности кој се користат во голема група на козметички и производи за лична хигиена . Се користат поради нивните својства за кондиционирање на кожа и коса , ја подмачкуваат кожата давајќи и притоа мек и пријатен изглед ,ја заштитуваат кожата и се користат и како растворувачи .Пропилен Гликол е органски алкохол и е еден од најчесто употребуваните состојки во козметичките и производите за лична хигиена кој вклучуваат мирисни формулации .Пропилен Гликолите ја привлекуваат водата и функционираат како овлажнувачи и го подобруваат изгледот на кожата со намалување на отпаѓањето на парчињата од кожата и обновувањето на нејзината еластичност .Исто така се користи за стабилизирање на формулациите .Стеарил Алкохол , Олеил Алкохол и Октил додеканол се долго ланчани масни алкохоли .Стеарил алкохол е бела восошна цврста материја додека Олеил Алкохол и Октил додеканолот се бистри безбојни течности .Сите овие помагаат во формирањето на емулзиите и го спречуваат одвојувањето на емулзиите на нивните составни масла и течни компоненти .Го намалуваат пенењето при мешање , во формулациите имаат функција на подмачкувачи на површината на кожата давајќи и мек и пријатен изглед .

Триетанол Амин , Диетанол Амин и Етанол Амин се бистри безбојни вискозни течности со мирис сличен на амонијак . Триетанол Аминот , Диетанол Аминот и Етанол Аминот помагаат во формирањето на емулзиите со намалување на површинскиот напон на супстанциите кој треба да се емулгираат со што се овозможува водо растворливи и масло растворливи компоненти да се мешаат заедно .Исто така се користат за контролирање и дотерување на Ph вредноста на готовиот производ .Ботанички Состојки се компоненти кој се добиени од растенија ( тревки, корења, цветови , овошја, листови или семиња ) .Ботаничките состојки се меѓу првите козметички производи .Природните бои , сокови од растенија за олеснување и заштита од инсекти се користени уште од античко време.Цетил Алкохол , Цетеарил Алкохол , Миристил Алкохол и Бехенил Алкохол се бели , цврсти восочниматерии .Изостеарил Алкохол е бистра безбојна течност . Сите овие се масни алкохоли и широко се употребуваат во козметичките и производите за лична хигиена .Се користат да ја променат густината течните продукти и да ја стабилизираат пената .Диметикон и Метикон се полимери на база на силикон .Имаат низ својства како : антипенители . инхибитори на корозија , формираат филм на кожата , кондиционирање на коса и кожа , заштита на кожа , зголемување на вискозитет .Глицерин е алкохол добиен од шеќер , се добива по природен пат или со синтетизирање .Голема примена има во сапуните , пасти за заби креми за бричење , и производи за нега на коса и кожа . Има особина за кондиционирање на кожата и косата , заштита на кожата и намалување на вискозитетот ( густината ) на производите .Ланолин е сличен на помада и е изолиран од волна добиена од овца .Може да се одвои на течна фаза масло и цврста фаза восок .Ланолинот и дериватите кој се добиваат од него ја навлажнуваат кожата , косата и ноктите .Овие состојки делуваат како подмачкувачи давајќи и на кожата мек и нежен изглед .Ланолинот помага во емулгирањето на компонентите со тоа што лесно се меша со скоро сите компоненти кој се користат во козметичките и производите за лична хигиена .Конзерванси се природни или синтетски состојки кој се додаваат во производите за да се спречи нивното расипување било поради микробен раст или несакани хемиски промени . Конзервансите се користат во многу ниски концентрации за да ја обезбедат ефективноста на производот за време на целиот период на неговото продолжно користење . Без конзерванси

8

козметичките производи исто како и храната можат да се контаминираат со микроорганизми кој ќе доведат до нивно расипување , можна иритација или инфекција .Стеаринска Киселина , Лауринска Киселина, Олеинска Киселина и Палмитинска Киселина се масни киселини кој се појавуваат во природна форма во некој прехранбенипроизводи .СЕ користат поради нивните особини да му даваат на производот бисерно бела боја ( опалесцентна ) , агенси за чистење на површината на кожата како и поради способноста за емулгирање со останатите состојки .Токоферил Ацетет ( Витамин Е ) е природен антиоксиданс , растворлив во масло и може да се изолира од растително масло . Кога е изолиран може да варира во боја од жолта до кафеаво црвена.Токоферил ацетатот како природен антиоксиданс има кондиционирачки ефект врз кожата. Водата се користи во формулирањето на скоро сите типови на козметички и производи за лична хигиена .Водата воглавно се користи како растворувач во козметичките и производите за лична хигиена во кој ги раствора повеќето од состојките кој носат некаков бенефит на кожата .Водата исто така формира емулзии во кој маслените и водените компоненти на продуктите се комбинираат во формирањето на креми и лосиони .Овие пак се нарекуваат вода во масло или масло во вода емулзии зависно од односот на маслената и водената фаза .

КРЕМА ЗА КОЖА LA LIGNE СО ПРОВИТАМИН Б5 И ЕКСТРАКТ ОД КАМИЛИЦА Состав Состав ( % )

Fizicki izgled Funkcija

Емулгатори

Масни деривати

Овлажнувачи

Стабилизатори

Glyceryl stearate SE Octyl dodecanol Cetearyl alcohol Dimethicone Glycerine Propylene GlycolPanthenolChamomila recutita Voda ParfemLimonska kiselina Phenoxyethanol

Bistra bezbojna tecnost Bela vosocna cvrsta materija

9

Конзерванси

Вода

Metilparaben , Ethylparaben, Propyl paraben ,Butyl paraben , Isobutylparaben .

Voda

Bistra bezbojna tecnost растворувач

OctyldodecanolStearyl Alcohol, Oleyl Alcohol and Octyldodecanol are long chain fatty alcohols. Stearyl Alcohol is a white, waxy solid with a faint odor, while Oleyl Alcohol and Octyldodecanol are clear, colorless liquids. These three ingredients are found in a wide variety of products such as hair conditioners, foundations, eye makeup, skin moisturizers, skin cleansers and other skin care products.

Cetearyl alcohol Cetearyl Alcohol, Cetyl Alcohol, Myristyl Alcohol and Behenyl Alcohol are white, waxy solids. Isostearyl Alcohol is a clear liquid. Cetyl Alcohol and Stearyl Alcohol are the two major components of Cetearyl Alcohol. These ingredients are all fatty alcohols and that are widely used in cosmetics and personal care products, especially in skin lotions and creams.

A B C D E F G H I J K L M N O P Q R S

T U V W X Y Z

10

SSap

A watery solution of sugars, salts and minerals that circulates through a plant's vascular system.

Saponification

The reaction between a caustic alkali (lye) and the fatty acids in a vegetable oil or animal fat that results in soap.

Secondary Direct Food Additive(s)

A secondary direct food additive has a technical effect in food during processing but not in the finished food (e.g., processing aid).

Seedcake

The semi-solid material left after the oil is expressed from a seed.

Seedcoat

The outer protective covering of a seed.

Serum

The fluid part of the blood that remains after blood cells, platelets, and fibrogen have been removed.

Skin Bleaching Agent(s)

Ingredients that bleach or lighten skin by suppressing melanin (pigment) formation within skin cells. In the United States, skin bleaching agents are

regulated as Over-The-Counter (OTC) drug ingredients

Skin Conditioning Agent(s) - Emollient(s)

Ingredients that act as lubricants on the skin surface, which give the skin a soft and smooth appearance.

Skin Protectant(s)

An ingredient that temporarily protects injured or exposed skin from harmful or annoying stimuli, and that may provide relief to such skin. In the United

States, skin protectants are regulated as Over-The-Counter (OTC) drug ingredients.

Skin-Conditioning Agent(s) - Humectant

Ingredients that increase the water content of the top layers of the skin by drawing moisture from the surrounding air.

Skin-Conditioning Agent(s) - Miscellaneous

Ingredients that enhance the appearance of dry or damaged skin by reducing flaking and restoring suppleness.

Skin-Conditioning Agent(s) - Occlusive

Ingredients that slow the loss of water from the skin by forming a barrier on the skin's surface.

Slip Modifier(s)

Ingredients that help other substances to flow more easily and more smoothly, without reacting chemically.

Solvent(s)

Substances, usually liquids, that are used to dissolve other substances.

Spore

A small usually single-celled reproductive body produced by plants and some microorganisms and capable of development into a new individual.

Sporocarp

A multi-cellular body where spores are developed in red algae, lichens, etc.

Sprout

A young shoot from a recently germinated seed, often very rich in vitamin C.

Starch

A complex carbohydrate widely distributed among plants. It is the chief storage form of carbohydrates in plants.

Sterol(s)

A class of solid cyclic unsaturated alcohols found in plant and animal tissues. Sterols are waxy and insoluble in water.

Sunscreen Agent(s)

Ingredients that are applied to the skin to absorb, to reflect, or to scatter UV rays. In the United States, sunscreen agents are regulated as Over-The-

Counter (OTC) drug ingredients.

Surface Modifier(s)

Substances that are added to other cosmetic ingredients to make those ingredients either attract or repel water.

Surfactant

An ingredient that helps two substances that normally do not mix to become dissolved or dispersed in one another. Also called a surface active agent.

Surfactant(s) - Cleansing Agent(s)

Surfactants that clean skin and hair by helping water to mix with oil and dirt so that they can be rinsed away.

Surfactant(s) - Emulsifying Agent(s)

Surfactants that help to form emulsions by reducing the surface tension of the substances to be emulsified.

Surfactant(s) - Foam Booster(s)

Surfactants that increase foaming capacity or that stabilize foams.

11

Surfactant(s) - Hydrotrope(s)

Surfactants that have the ability to enhance the water solubility of another surfactant.

Surfactant(s) - Solubilizing Agent(s)

Surfactants that help another ingredient to dissolve in a solvent in which it would not normally dissolve.

Surfactant(s) - Suspending Agent(s)

Surfactant - suspending agents function by modifying a solid's surface characteristics by adsorption. Changing the surface properties of a solid, keeps

the particles from coming together and falling out of solution.

Suspending Agent(s) - Nonsurfactant

Suspending agents - nonsurfactant modify the interface between solid particles and the liquid medium to improve the particles' resistance to settling.

Many of these substances are gums and polymers.

Symbiosome

An organelle-like structure formed within the root nodule of certain plants when bacteria are imported into a plant cell and become surrounded by a

plant membrane. Symbiosomes are thought to contain a mixture of plant- and bacteria-derived proteins.

Skin Care Products (Creams, Lotions, Powders, and Sprays)

Body and Hand Creams and Lotions

Body and Hand Creams/Lotions are products that are intended to moisturize and soften the body and hands.

They are often semi-solid emulsions of oil and water. Body and Hand Creams/Lotions contain special ingredients that help to replace the oils contained

in the skin or to protect against the loss of moisture from the skin.

The safety of Body and Hand Creams/Lotions is established by selection of ingredients that are safe and suitable for this purpose. In addition, Body

and Hand Creams/Lotions are assessed for their potential to cause skin irritation or cause allergic reactions. Product safety is also established though

strict adherence to the principles of Quality Assurance and Good Manufacturing Practices. This includes testing the compatibility of the product with

packaging as well as shelf-life stability.

Finally, the safety of products is monitored in the market-place to track any reports of consumer injury. Companies include a phone number on their

products where comments or complaints may be reported.

There are 18 ingredients comonluy found in

1

2 3

1.Allantoin

What is it?

Allantoin is a white odorless powder. Other Allantoin containing compounds that may be used in cosmetics and personal care products, include the

Allanotin salt of vitamin C, Allantoin Ascorbate, and the Allantoin salt of vitamin B7, Allantoin Biotin. Allantoin complexes that may be used in cosmetics

and personal care products include Allantoin Galacturonic Acid, Allanotoin Polygalacturonic Acid, Allantoin Glycyrrhetinic Acid and Allantoin Panthenol.

Among the Allantoin containing ingredients, Allantoin itself is most likely to be used in cosmetics and personal care products. It is used in the

formulation of bath products, eye makeup, hair care products, oral hygiene products and skin care products.

Safety Information

The Food and Drug Administration (FDA) has reviewed the safety of Allantoin and permits its use as an active ingredient in Over-The-Counter (OTC)

skin protectant drug products at concentrations of 0.5 to 2%.

12

The safety of Allantoin, Allantoin Ascorbate, Allantoin Biotin, Allantoin Galacturonic Acid, Allantoin Polygalacturonic Acid, Allantoin Glycyrrhetinic Acid

and Allantoin Panthenol has been assessed by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel. The CIR Expert Panel evaluated the scientific data

and based on the available information concluded that Allantoin and the compounds containing Allantoin were safe for use as cosmetic ingredients.

Why is it used in cosmetics and personal care products?

Allantoin, Allantoin Ascorbate, Allantoin Biotin, Allantoin Galacturonic Acid, Allantoin Polygalacturonic Acid, Allantoin Glycyrrhetinic Acid and Allanotin

Panthenol all function as skin-conditioning agents – miscellaneous. Allantoin also functions as a skin protectant.

Scientific facts:

With the exception of humans and higher apes, Allanotin is found in the urine of mammals. It is the primary form in which nitrogen-containing waste is

excreted in the urine of these animals. Allantoin is also found in many plants, such as comfrey, horse chestnut and bearberry. Although Allantoin can

be isolated from these plants, most Allantoin used in cosmetics and personal care products is made from urea and glyoxylic acid.

1

2 3

2.Carbomer

What is it?

Carbomer is a term used for a series of polymers primarily made from acrylic acid. The Carbomers are white, fluffy powders but are frequently used as

gels in cosmetics and personal care products. Carbomers can be found in a wide variety of product types including skin, hair, nail, and makeup

products, as well as dentifrices.

Safety Information

The safety of the Carbomer has been assessed by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel. The CIR Expert Panel evaluated the scientific

data and concluded that Carbomer polymers were safe as ingredients in cosmetics and personal care products. In 2001, as part of the scheduled re-

evaluation of ingredients, the CIR Expert Panel considered available new data on Carbomer polymers and reaffirmed the above conclusion.

Why is it used in cosmetics and personal care products?

The Carbomers help to distribute or suspend an insoluble solid in a liquid. They are also used to keep emulsions from separating into their oil and liquid

components. Carbomers are often used to control the consistency and flow of cosmetics and personal care products.

Scientific facts:

The Carbomers are large molecules prepared from relatively small chemical compounds called monomers. The monomers used to make Carbomer

polymers are acrylic acid and polyalkenyl polyethers. The Carbomers are all chemically similar, differing from each other in molecular weight and

viscosity. Carbomers have the ability to absorb and retain water, and these polymers can swell to many times their original volume.

On a label of a cosmetic or personal care product, the name Carbomer may be associated with a number such as 910, 934, 940, 941 and 934P. These

numbers are an indication of molecular weight and the specific components of the polymer.

1

2 3

3.Colorants

What is it?

Colorants are ingredients that, alone or in combination with other ingredients, impart or alter the color of the product. The visual perception of color

occurs primarily by the absorption and/or reflection of visible light by the product and corresponds to humans seeing red, yellow, blue, green, black, etc.

Such color derives from the wavelength spectrum of light interacting with the light receptor cells in the eye and sending a message to the brain.

Safety Information

13

All colorants used in cosmetics and personal care products in the United States (with the exception of certain hair dyes) must be pre-approved by the

Food and Drug Administration. The FDA conducts detailed safety reviews for colors used in cosmetics and the approval process may involve

numerous studies to establish safety. FDA lists the approved colors in the Code of Federal Regulations (Title 21). These regulations describe the

identity of the color, the allowed composition, the uses and restrictions and any other requirement necessary to ensure safe use. (Note that such

colorants in the U.S. are officially called “color additives.”)

Find out more about FDA regulation of Color Additives: http://www.fda.gov/consumer/updates/coloradditives121007.pdf

Why is it used in cosmetics and personal care products?

Colorants are used to make products attractive and appealing, and for foods, appetizing. Colorants may be used to create a product image or

recognition, the "mood" of the product or other impression. We live in a colorful world and the use of colors helps to complement this environment. Prior

to the development of the wide color palate by scientists now available, products tended to appear drab and colors were very unstable and faded

quickly. Mixing colors to achieve the exact effect desired requires great skill and knowledge of the properties of the ingredients and products - it is really

an art form.

Scientific facts:

Color additives have long been a part of human culture. Archaeologists date cosmetic colors as far back as 5000 B.C. Ancient Egyptian writings tell of

drug colorants, and historians say food colors likely emerged around 1500 B.C. Before the development of modern technology, colors primarily came

from substances found in nature, such as indigo, turmeric, paprika and saffron. But as the 20th century approached, new kinds of colors appeared that

offered marketers wider coloring possibilities. These colors, made in the laboratory, were found to be much more stable with greater coloring intensity,

meaning that less color could be used in the product to accomplish the same effect. They also could be produced without using plants harvested in the

wild.

Though colors from plant, animal and mineral sources -- at one time the only coloring agents available -- remained in use early last century,

manufacturers had strong incentives to phase them out. Synthesized colors simply were easier to produce, less expensive and required less of the

ingredient in the product.

1

2 3

4.Fragrance

What is it?

Fragrances are ingredients used in a wide variety of cosmetics and personal care products to make the products more pleasant and to make them

recognizable to the users. Fine fragrances, or perfumes, are used specifically to provide a pleasant and attractive odor for the user, while functional

fragrances are added to products that serve some function such as cleaning or moisturizing.

According to the U.S. Food and Drug Regulation, the term “fragrance” on a product label signifies "any natural or synthetic substance or substances

used solely to impart an odor to a cosmetic product.” In Europe, the labeling name for Fragance is Parfum.

Fragrances encompass a wide variety of natural and synthetic materials that are used alone or in combinations to produce a unique fragrance in

products. Studies have shown that users associate a pleasant fragrance with a clean environment. In other words, consumers know an area is clean

because of the pleasant smell that remains following cleaning. It’s impossible to know if a product without fragrance has been applied; without

fragrance there is no perceived effectiveness.

Safety Information

The safety of fragrance ingredients is assessed by a comprehensive program operated by the International Fragrance Association (IFRA). This

comprehensive program, in operation since 1973, includes a Code of Practice (the Code) that provides recommendations for good operating practice

and guidelines on fragrance ingredient safety assessment, and includes fragrance safety Standards which limit or ban the usage of certain fragrance

materials. IFRA oversees the gathering of information about the safety of individual fragrance ingredients and reviews this information to determine the

safety under conditions of use. The conclusions of the IFRA safety review are published in the IFRA “Code of Practice” which provides critical guidance

to fragrance formulators and users to ensure that their products are safe.

14

Scientific review of fragrance ingredients is conducted by the Research Institute for Fragrance Materials (RIFM). RIFM is the scientific arm of IFRA and is

a non-profit scientific institute, founded in 1966 for the purpose of generating and evaluating safety data on fragrance ingredients. The scientific

foundation of RIFM is built around its independent Expert Panel (REXPAN), made up of toxicologists, pharmacologists, dermatologists and

environmental scientists, none of whom has any other connection to the fragrance industry, and whose work involves the safety evaluation of fragrance

ingredients under conditions of intended use.

The results of the RIFM Expert Panel evaluations are published in peer-reviewed scientific journals, and their decisions regarding restrictions of use are

published in the IFRA Standards. RIFM evaluates and distributes scientific data on the safety assessment of fragrance raw materials found in

perfumes, cosmetics, shampoos, creams, detergents, air fresheners, candles and other personal and household products. RIFM's Database of

Fragrance and Flavor Materials is the most comprehensive source worldwide for toxicology data, literature and information on the safety evaluation of

fragrance and flavor materials.

The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) defers review of individual fragrance ingredients to the IFRA/RIFM program unless the ingredient has significant

uses other than as a fragrance. In this case, the ingredient may be assessed by both the CIR Expert Panel and REXPAN.

Link to the Web Site for the International Fragrance Association:

http://www.ifraorg.org/

Link to the IFRA fragrance standards and code of practive:

http://www.ifraorg.org/Home/Code,+Standards+Compliance/IFRA+...

Why is it used in cosmetics and personal care products?

Fragrances are used in a wide variety of products to impart odor or to mask the odor of another ingredient used in the formulation of a product.

Numerous studies confirm that fragrances enhance well being and have a positive impact on the psyche. Many consumers prefer fragranced products

because they have a pleasant effect and are pleasing to others. Often a particular fragrance becomes strongly associated with product identity and

acceptability.

Scientific facts:

Fragrances are generally described as an odor in a substance dispersed in the air, generally at a very low concentration, which are perceive by the

sense of olfaction. Odors are also sometimes called smells, which can refer to both pleasant and unpleasant odors. The terms fragrance, scent, or

aroma are used primarily by the food and cosmetic industry to describe a pleasant odor, and is sometimes used to refer to perfumes.

Some odors such as perfumes and flowers are sought after for use in cosmetics and personal care products. The perception of odors is very much

dependent upon circumstance and culture. The odor of cooking processes may be pleasurable while cooking but not necessarily after the meal. The

odor molecules send messages to the limbic system, the area of the brain that governs emotional responses. Some believe that these messages have

the power to alter moods, evoke distant memories, raise their spirits, and boost self-confidence.

1

2 3

5.Glyceryl Stearate

What is it?

Glyceryl Stearate and Glyceryl Stearate SE are esterification products of glycerin and stearic acid. Glyceryl Stearate is a white or cream-colored wax-

like solid. Glyceryl Stearate SE is a “Self-Emulsifying” form of Glyceryl Stearate that also contains a small amount of sodium and or potassium stearate.

In cosmetics and personal care products, Glyceryl Stearate is widely used and can be found in lotions, creams, powders, skin cleansing products,

makeup bases and foundations, mascara, eye shadow, eyeliner, hair conditioners and rinses, and suntan and sunscreen products.

Safety Information

15

The Food and Drug Administration (FDA) includes Glyceryl Stearate (also called glyceryl monostearate) in its list of direct food additives affirmed as

Generally Recognized As Safe (GRAS).

The safety of Glyceryl Stearate and Glyceryl Stearate SE has been assessed by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel. The CIR Expert

Panel evaluated the scientific data and concluded that Glyceryl Stearate and Glyceryl Stearate SE were safe for use in cosmetics and personal care

products.

Why is it used in cosmetics and personal care products?

Glyceryl Stearate acts as a lubricant on the skin’s surface, which gives the skin a soft and smooth appearance. It also slows the loss of water from the

skin by forming a barrier on the skin’s surface. Glyceryl Stearate, and Glyceryl Stearate SE help to form emulsions by reducing the surface tension of

the substances to be emulsified.

Scientific facts:

Glyceryl Stearate is made by reacting glycerin with stearic acid, a fatty acid obtained from animal and vegetable fats and oils.

Glyceryl Stearate SE is produced by reacting an excess of stearic acid with glycerin. The excess stearic acid is then reacted with potassium and/or

sodium hydroxide yielding a product that contains Glyceryl Stearate as well as potassium stearate and/or sodium stearate.

1

2 3

6.Mineral Oil

What is it?

Mineral Oil is a clear liquid that is used in a wide variety of cosmetics and personal care products.

Safety Information

The Food and Drug Administration (FDA) has reviewed the safety of Mineral Oil and permits its use as a multipurpose direct food additive. The FDA

also permits its use in Over-the-Counter (OTC) skin protectant drug preparations and in ophthalmic emollients.

Why is it used in cosmetics and personal care products?

Mineral Oil functions as a hair conditioning agent, skin conditioning agent – emollient, skin conditioning agent – occlusive, skin protectant and as a solvent.

Scientific facts:

Mineral Oil is a mixture of liquid hydrocarbons produced from the distillation of petroleum. It is refined to meet specifications appropriate for its use in

cosmetics and personal care products, pharmaceuticals and food. It is sometimes used as a laxative. Mineral Oil is used as a release agent for baking

pans and trays.

1

2 3

7Propylene Glycol

What is it?

Propylene Glycol is an organic alcohol. It is one of the most widely used ingredients in cosmetics and personal care products including fragrance

formulations. Polypropylene Glycols (PPG), including PPG-9, PPG-12, PPG-15, PPG-17, PPG-20, PPG-26, PPG-30 and PPG-34 are polymers of

Propylene Glycol and water. The number in the name represents that average number of units of Propylene Glycol in the compound.

Safety Information

The Food and Drug Administration (FDA) includes Propylene Glycol on its list of substances considered Generally Recognized As Safe (GRAS) for

direct addition to food. Polypropylene Glycol is also permitted as an indirect food additive for use as a defoaming agent.

The safety of Propylene Glycol, PPG-9, PPG-12, PPG-15, PPG-17, PPG-20, PPG-26, PPG-30 and PPG-34 has been assessed by the Cosmetic

16

Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel. The CIR Expert Panel evaluated the scientific data and concluded that Propylene Glycol and the Polypropylene

Glycol polymers were safe for use in cosmetic products at concentrations up to 50%.

Why is it used in cosmetics and personal care products?

Propylene Glycol and Polypropylene Glycols attract water and function as moisturizers to enhance the appearance of skin by reducing flaking and

restoring suppleness. Propylene Glycol is also used to help stabilize formulations.

Scientific facts:

Propylene Glycol, also known as 1,2-propanediol, is used to absorb extra water and maintain moisture in certain cosmetics, medicines and food

products. In the human body, Propylene Glycol is metabolized into lactic acid, which occurs naturally when muscles are exercised.

1

2 3

8.Stearyl Alcohol

What is it?

Stearyl Alcohol, Oleyl Alcohol and Octyldodecanol are long chain fatty alcohols. Stearyl Alcohol is a white, waxy solid with a faint odor, while Oleyl

Alcohol and Octyldodecanol are clear, colorless liquids. These three ingredients are found in a wide variety of products such as hair conditioners,

foundations, eye makeup, skin moisturizers, skin cleansers and other skin care products.

Safety Information

The Food and Drug Administration (FDA) reviewed the safety of Stearyl Alcohol and approved its use as a multipurpose additive for direct addition to

food. Stearyl Alcohol and Oleyl Alcohol have also been approved for use as indirect food additives.

The safety of Stearyl Alcohol and related ingredients has been assessed by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel. The CIR Expert Panel

evaluated the scientific data and concluded that Stearyl Alcohol, Oleyl Alcohol and Octyldodecanol were safe for use in cosmetics and personal care

products. In 2004, the CIR Expert Panel considered available new data on Stearyl Alcohol, Oleyl Alcohol and Octyldodecanol and reaffirmed the above

conclusion.

Why is it used in cosmetics and personal care products?

Stearyl Alcohol, Oleyl Alcohol and Octyldodecanol help to form emulsions and prevent an emulsion from separating into its oil and liquid components.

These ingredients also reduce the tendency of finished products to generate foam when shaken. When used in the formulation of skin care products,

Stearyl Alcohol, Oleyl Alcohol and Octyldodecanol act as a lubricants on the skin surface, which gives the skin a soft, smooth appearance.

Scientific facts:

Stearyl Alcohol and Oleyl Alcohol are mixtures of long-chain fatty alcohols. Stearyl Alcohol consists primarily of n-octadecanol, while Oleyl Alcohol is

primarily unsaturated 9-n-octadecenol. Octyldodecanol is a branched chain fatty alcohol. Fatty alcohols are higher molecular weight nonvolatile

alcohols. They are produced from natural fats and oils by reduction of the fatty acid (-COOH) grouping to the hydroxyl function (-OH). Alternately,

several completely synthetic routes yield fatty alcohols which may be structurally identical or similar to the naturally-derived alcohols.

1

2 3

9.Triethanolamine

What is it?

Triethanolamine, Diethanolamine and Ethanolamine are clear, colorless, viscous liquids with ammonia-like odors. In cosmetics and personal care

products, Triethanolamine is used in makeup products such as eyeliners, mascara, eye shadows, blushers, make-up bases and foundations, as well as

in fragrances, hair care products, hair dyes, wave sets, shaving products, sunscreens, and skin care and skin cleansing products. Diethanolamine and

Ethanolamine are used mostly in permanent waves and hair dyes and colors.

Safety Information

17

The Food and Drug Administration (FDA) includes Triethanolamine, Diethanolamine and Ethanolamine on its list of indirect food additives. These

ingredients may be used in adhesives in contact with food and to assist in the washing or peeling of fruits and vegetables.

The safety of Triethanolamine, Diethanolamine and Ethanolamine has been assessed by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel. The CIR

Expert Panel evaluated the scientific data and concluded that Triethanolamine, Diethanolamine and Ethanolamine were safe for use in cosmetics and

personal care products designed for discontinuous, brief use followed by thorough rinsing from the surface of the skin. In products intended for

prolonged contact with the skin, the concentration of Triethanolamine and Diethanolamine should not exceed 5%. Ethanolamine should be used only in

rinse-off products. Triethanolamine and Diethanolamine should not be used in products containing N-nitrosating agents to prevent the formation of

possibly carcinogenic nitrosamines.

Why is it used in cosmetics and personal care products?

Triethanolamine, Diethanolamine and Ethanolamine help to form emulsions by reducing the surface tension of the substances to be emulsified so that

water-soluble and oil-soluble ingredients can be blended together. They are also used to control the pH of cosmetics and personal care products.

Scientific facts:

Triethanolamine, Diethanolamine and Ethanolamine are strong bases that have the combined properties of alcohols and amines.

1

2 3

10.Botanical Ingredients

What is it?

A Botanical Ingredient is a component of a cosmetic or personal care product that originates from plants (herbs, roots, flowers, fruits, leaves or seeds).

Specific ingredients derived from biological sources are classified based on their chemical structure and how they are isolated from plants.

Safety Information

In considering the safety of Botanical Ingredients used in cosmetics and personal care products, it is important to consider the specific botanical

material, the amount of the botanical in the raw material and finished product and the route of exposure. Most applications of Botanical Ingredients in

cosmetics are topical; they are applied externally to the skin.

In selecting Botanical Ingredients for preparation of cosmetic products, formulators take into account the extensive history of their preparation and use.

Plant materials have been used for decades or even centuries and, based upon the human experience with these botanical ingredients, knowledge of

their safety has been gained. Manufacturers of cosmetic and personal care products are required by law to substantiate the safety of their products,

including products containing Botanical Ingredients. There are many different references that describe the isolation, use and safety of botanical

preparations.

The safety of cosmetic ingredients, including Botanical Ingredients, is assessed by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR). The CIR is an independent

program sponsored by the cosmetic and personal care industry. The CIR has considered the safety of many of the Botanical Ingredients that are used

in cosmetics and personal care products. In considering the safety of Botanical Ingredients, the CIR Expert Panel considers all of the scientific data that

is available, including data that is published in the peer-reviewed literature as well as information provided from other sources, and determines whether

or not this information can allow a safety assessment. If additional information is necessary, the CIR will issue a public announcement identifying the

additional information that is needed to complete their safety assessment. When all of the information is available, the CIR Expert Panel will then

carefully review the data and issue a conclusion to the public. The conclusion can say that the ingredient is (1) safe as used, (2) safe with limitations on

usage, (3) unsafe and (4) insufficient information to determine safety. The CIR conclusions provide important guidance for safe formulation of

cosmetics and personal care products. You can find out about the CIR Program at the following link: http://www.cir-safety.org/.

FDA Guidance for Industry – Botanical Drug Products Link: http://www.fda.gov/cder/guidance/1221dft.htm

You can find out about specific Botanical Ingredients by using the ingredient search feature of this web site.

Why is it used in cosmetics and personal care products?

18

Plant-derived (Botanical) Ingredients were among the very first cosmetics. Natural colorants, plant juices for soothing and protection from insect pests,

and fragrant oils for imparting scent were all used in ancient times. Historically, plants were the only way to produce products for cleaning, moisturizing,

covering up blemishes and even treating minor skin conditions.

Scientific facts:

It is probably safe to say that plant derived ingredients were among the very first cosmetics. Natural colorants, plant juices for soothing and protection

from insect pests, and fragrant oils for imparting odor were all known and used in ancient times.

The actual composition of a botanical ingredient can depend on a number of variables. For example, a Botanical Ingredient can be prepared by the

extraction of the plant using a suitable solvent. Depending on the desired ingredient, different parts of the plant might be processed for use in cosmetic

and personal care products. This might include the flowers, seeds, roots, leaves or other plant part. Some ingredients are obtained directly without

extraction. The plant part might be dried and/or ground into a powder. In other cases the plant might be squeezed or pressed to obtained the juice or

oil. In all cases, the manufacturing process is carefully controlled to ensure quality and a predictable composition.

Although there has always been a continuing interest in the use of ingredients derived from plants in cosmetics, beginning in the 1990s, that interest

exploded, with new discoveries of benefits, greater standardization and control of raw material specifications, and new formulation techniques. That

explosion of new botanical ingredients being introduced to the market led to the need to re-examine the industry's rules for identifying the ingredients

on consumer products.

The earliest rules for identifying botanical ingredients (ingredients derived from plants with little processing, such as simple extracts, oil, etc.) for

cosmetic labeling purposes were developed in the United States. With few ingredients initially, it made sense to simply call them by their common

name, for example: apple, orange, etc. As more and more distinct ingredients entered the market, however, and as it was recognized that many of the

common names could be representative of different compositions from differing species of plant, it became apparent that new rules for assigning

names would be required. At the same time, countries around the world were expressing interest in requiring cosmetic ingredient labeling for their

products, and were considering using the U. S. nomenclature as a base, but expressed concern that common American names for plants would not be

understood by their citizens. The current approach uses that Latin Genus and species names as the base for botanical derived ingredient

nomenclature. With this approach, much more specificity can be given to the botanical source of the ingredient, and, they would be easily recognized

by the entire scientific and medical community.

1

2 3

11.Cetyl Alcohol

What is it?

Cetearyl Alcohol, Cetyl Alcohol, Myristyl Alcohol and Behenyl Alcohol are white, waxy solids. Isostearyl Alcohol is a clear liquid. Cetyl Alcohol and

Stearyl Alcohol are the two major components of Cetearyl Alcohol. These ingredients are all fatty alcohols and that are widely used in cosmetics and

personal care products, especially in skin lotions and creams.

Safety Information

The Food and Drug Administration (FDA) includes synthetic fatty alcohols including Cetyl Alcohol, Stearyl Alcohol and Myristyl Alcohol on its list of food

additives permitted for direct addition to food as multipurpose food additives. Synthetic fatty alcohols are also permited as indirect food additives as

adjuvants and production aids.

The safety of Cetearyl Alcohol, Cetyl Alcohol, Isostearyl Alcohol, Myristyl Alcohol and Behenyl Alcohol has been assessed by the Cosmetic Ingredient

Review (CIR) Expert Panel. The CIR Expert Panel evaluated the scientific data and concluded that these fatty alcohols were safe for use as cosmetic

ingredients. In 2005, the CIR Expert Panel considered available new data on Cetearyl Alcohol and the other fatty alcohols and reaffirmed the above

conclusion.

Why is it used in cosmetics and personal care products?

Cetearyl Alcohol and the other fatty alcohols keep an emulsion from separating into its oil and liquid components. These ingredients are also used to

alter the thickness of liquid products and to increase foaming capacity or to stabilize foams.

19

Scientific facts:

Cetearyl, Cetyl, Myristyl and Behenyl Alcohols are straight-chain alcohols. Isostearyl Alcohol is a branched chain alcohol. Cetearyl Alcohol is a mixture

of mostly of Cetyl and Stearyl Alcohols, which are fatty alcohols that occur naturally in small quantities in plants and animals.

Myristyl Alcohol is a 14 carbon chain. Cetyl Alcohol has 16 carbons, while Stearyl and Isostearyl Alcohols have 18 carbons. Behenyl Alcohol is the

largest fatty alcohol in this group with 22 carbons.

1

2 3

12.Dimethicone

What is it?

Dimethicone and Methicone are silicone based polymers. The only difference between these two polymers is that the repeating unit of Dimethicone

contains two methyl groups, while the repeating unit of Methicone contains one methyl group. Other Dimethicone and Methicone based polymers that

may be used in cosmetics include Amino Bispropyl Dimethicone, Aminopropyl Dimethicone, Amodimethicone, Amodimethicone Hydroxystearate,

Behenoxy Dimethicone, C30-45 Alkyl Dimethicone, C24-28 Alkyl Dimethicone, C30-45 Alkyl Methicone, Cetearyl Methicone, Cetyl Dimethicone,

Dimethoxysilyl Ethylenediaminopropyl Dimethicone, Hexyl Methicone, Hydroxypropyldimethicone, Stearamidopropyl Dimethicone, Stearoxy

Dimethicone, Stearyl Methicone, Stearyl Dimethicone and Vinyl Dimethicone.

In cosmetics and personal care products Dimethicone and related ingredients are used in the formulation of a wide range of cosmetic and personal

care products including cosmetic creams and lotions, bath soaps, shampoo and hair care products. The most widely used ingredient in this group is

Dimethicone.

Safety Information

The Food and Drug Administration (FDA) reviewed the safety of Dimethicone and approved its use as a skin protectant active ingredient in over-the-

counter (OTC)drug products.

The safety of Dimethicone, Methicone Amino Bispropyl Dimethicone, Aminopropyl Dimethicone, Amodimethicone, Amodimethicone Hydroxystearate,

Behenoxy Dimethicone, C30-45 Alkyl Dimethicone, C24-28 Alkyl Dimethicone, C30-45 Alkyl Methicone, Cetearyl Methicone, Cetyl Dimethicone,

Dimethoxysilyl Ethylenediaminopropyl Dimethicone, Hexyl Methicone, Hydroxypropyldimethicone, Stearamidopropyl Dimethicone, Stearoxy

Dimethicone, Stearyl Methicone, Stearyl Dimethicone and Vinyl Dimethicone has been assessed by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel.

The CIR Expert Panel evaluated the scientific data and concluded that these ingredients were safe for use in cosmetics.

Why is it used in cosmetics and personal care products?

The following functions have been reported for these ingredients.

Antifoaming agent - Dimethicone, Cetyl Dimethicone

Corrosion inhibitor - Stearamidopropyl Dimethicone

Film former - Stearamidopropyl Dimethicone

Hair conditioning agent - Amino Bispropyl Dimethicone, Aminopropyl Dimethicone, Amodimethicone, Amodimethicone Hydroxystearate, Dimethoxysilyl

Ethylenediaminopropyl Dimethicone, Hydroxypropyldimethicone

Skin conditioning agent - emollient - Behenoxy Dimethicone, C24-28 Alkyl Methicone, Cetyl Dimethicone, Hexyl Methicone, Stearoxy Dimethicone

Skin conditioning agent - miscellaneous - Hydroxypropyldimethicone

Skin conditioning agent - occlusive - Methicone, Dimethicone, C30-45 Alkyl Dimethicone, C30-45 Alkyl Methicone, Cetearyl Methicone, Cetyl

Dimethicone, Stearyl Dimethicone, Stearyl Methicone

Skin protectant - Dimethicone

Surface modifier - Methicone

Viscosity increasing agent - nonaqueous - C24-28 Alkyl Methicone, C30-45 Alkyl Methicone

Scientific facts:

Silicon is ubiquitous in the earth and silicon dioxide is common sand. Silicon, like carbon, can form polymers. Dimethicone is a fluid mixture of siloxane

polymers sometimes referred to as polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS). It is optically clear, and is generally considered to be inert, non-toxic and non-

flammable. Dimethicone is the most widely used silicone polymer, and is particularly known for its unusual rheological (or flow) properties.

20

13.Glycerin

What is it?

Glycerin is a sugar alcohol that can be obtained from natural sources or can be synthesized. In cosmetics and personal care products Glycerin may be

found in soaps, toothpaste, shaving cream, and skin and hair care products.

Safety Information

The Food and Drug Administration (FDA) includes Glycerin on its list of direct food additives considered Generally Recognized As Safe (GRAS), and on

its list of approved indirect food additives. Glycerin is also an FDA approved active ingredient in Over-the-Counter (OTC) skin protectant drug products,

ear drying products and it an approved demulcent for the eyes.

Why is it used in cosmetics and personal care products?

Glycerin is a well known humectant in cosmetics and personal care products. Other functions that have been reported for Glycerin include, hair

conditioning agent, oral care agent, skin conditioning agent - humectant, skin protectant and viscosity decreasing agents.

Scientific facts:

Glycerin, also referred to as Glycerol, is a component of all animal and vegetable fats and oils. It can also be synthesized from carbohydrate materials

or from substances such as propylene.

1

2 3

14.Lanolin

What is it?

Lanolin is an ointment-like material isolated from wool that is sheared from sheep. Lanolin can be separated into Lanolin Oil, a liquid phase, and

Lanolin Wax a solid phase. Heating Lanolin with water (hydrolysis) produces a mixture of organic acids (Lanolin Acid) and a mixture of organic alcohols

(Lanolin Alcohol). Acetylated Lanolin, Hydrogenated Lanolin, and Hydroxylated Lanolin result when acetate, hydrogen and hydroxyl groups are added

to Lanolin, respectively. Acetylated Lanolin Alcohol results when acetate is added to Lanolin Alcohol.

Lanolin and its related ingredients are widely used in the formulation of cosmetics and personal care products. These ingredients can be found in baby

products, skin care, shaving, manicuring, hair care, suntan and sunscreen products, as well as eye, lip and facial makeup.

Safety Information

The Food and Drug Administration (FDA) permits Lanolin to be used in Over-the-Counter (OTC) drugs that protect the skin, and in OTC drugs that

protect the anorectal area. Lanolin is also permitted to be used as an opthalmic emollient in OTC ophthalmic drug products. In food, FDA permits the

use of Lanolin as an softener in chewing gum. Lanolin is also approved for use as an indirect food additive. For example, it may be used as a

component of cellophane that comes in contact with food.

The safety of Lanolin and lanolin-derived ingredients has been assessed by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel. The CIR Expert Panel

evaluated the scientific data and concluded that Lanolin, Lanolin Oil, Lanolin Wax, Lanolin Alcohol, Acetylated Lanolin, Acetylated Lanolin Alcohol,

Hydrogenated Lanolin and Hydroxylated Lanolin were safe for use in cosmetics and personal care products. In 2003, the CIR Expert Panel considered

available new data on Lanolin and the other Lanolin-derived ingredients and reaffirmed the above conclusion.

Why is it used in cosmetics and personal care products?

Lanolin and its related ingredients moisturize the skin, hair and nails. These ingredients act as a lubricants on the skin surface, which gives the skin a

soft, smooth appearance. Lanolin helps to form emulsions and blends well with nearly all other substances used in cosmetics and personal care

products. Lanolin also possesses adhesive characteristics.

Scientific facts:

Lanolin is derived from the sheep sebaceous gland. The raw material isolated from sheep’s wool is also called Adeps lanae, wool wax, wool fat or wool

grease. Lanolin aids sheep in shedding water from their coats.

1

21

2

15.Preservative Ingredients

What is it?

A preservative is a natural or synthetic ingredient that is added to products such as foods, pharmaceuticals and personal care products to prevent

spoilage, whether from microbial growth or undesirable chemical changes.

Preservative ingredients can be used at relatively low levels to ensure that the product performs effectively over the time it takes the consumer to finish

the product. Without preservatives, personal care products could become contaminated with microorganisms or degrade from the adverse effects of

oxygen.

Safety Information

The safety of individual Preservatives is established through several different mechanisms.

First, the safety of Preservatives, along with other types on ingredients, is assessed by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR), which is an independent

program sponsored by the cosmetic and personal care industry. The CIR has considered the safety of most of the preservatives that are used in

cosmetics and personal care products. In considering the safety of cosmetic preservatives, the CIR Expert Panel considers all of the scientific data that

is available, including data that is published in the peer-reviewed literature as well as information provided from other sources, and determines whether

or not this information can allow a safety assessment. If additional information is necessary, the CIR will issue a public announcement identifying the

additional information that is needed to complete their safety assessment. When all of the information is available, the CIR Expert Panel will then

carefully review the data and issue a conclusion to the public. The conclusion can say that the ingredient is (1) safe as used, (2) safe with limitations on

usage, (3) unsafe and (4) insufficient information to determine safety. The CIR conclusions provide important guidance for safe formulation of

cosmetics and personal care products.

In addition to the CIR, the safety of Preservatives has been considered by other authoritative organizations. The Food and Drug Administration (FDA)

has assessed the safety of the preservative and antimicrobial ingredients that are used in foods and drugs. Many of these same Preservatives are also

used in cosmetics and personal care products. The FDA safety assessments include public announcement describing the information considered by

the agency and the conditions for safe and effective use. The European Commission has also assessed the safety of Preservatives and describes the

ingredients that may be used in the Cosmetics Directive.

The consideration of the safety assessments for Preservatives provides a sound scientific basis for determining what levels are necessary to prevent the

growth of microorganisms and ensure safe use by the consumer.

You can find out more about specific Preservative ingredients by searching this web site using the name on the product label.

Why is it used in cosmetics and personal care products?

The use of preservatives is essential in most products to prevent product damage caused by microorganisms and to protect the product from inadvertent

contamination by the consumer during use. An ingredient that protects the product from the growth of microorganisms is called an antimicrobial. A

preservative may also be added to a product to protect it against damage and degradation caused by exposure to oxygen, and in this instance, these

ingredients are also called antioxidants. Without preservatives, cosmetic products, just like food, can become contaminated, leading to product spoilage

and possibly irritation or infections. Microbial contamination of products, especially those used around the eyes and on the skin, can cause significant

problems. Preservatives help prevent such problems.

Scientific facts:

Antimicrobials prevent the growth of molds, yeasts, and bacteria. Antioxidants keep personal care products from becoming rancid or brown, or

developing black spots. Rancid personal care products may not make you sick, but they might smell bad or be a different color or consistency.

Antioxidants suppress the reaction that occurs when ingredients in the product combine with oxygen in the presence of light, heat, and some metals.

Antioxidants also minimize the damage to some essential ingredients or materials that are especially susceptible to oxidative damage.

1

2 3

22

16.Stearic Acid

What is it?

Stearic Acid, Lauric Acid, Myristic Acid, Oleic Acid and Palmitic Acid are fatty acids that occur naturally in some foods. In cosmetics and personal-care

products, fatty acids and mixtures of fatty acids such as Stearic Acid, Oleic Acid, Lauric Acid, Palmitic Acid and Myristic Acid are used in a variety of

cosmetic creams, cakes, soaps and pastes.

Safety Information

The Food and Drug Administration (FDA) includes Stearic Acid on its list of direct food additives considered Generally Recognized As Safe (GRAS).

Stearic Acid is also permitted as a direct food additive in chewing gum base. The FDA also includes fatty acids on its list of food additives permitted for

direct addition to food.

The safety of Stearic Acid, Lauric Acid, Myristic Acid, Oleic Acid and Palmitic Acid has been assessed by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert

Panel. The CIR Expert Panel evaluated the scientific data concluded that these ingredients were safe for use in cosmetic products.

Why is it used in cosmetics and personal care products?

The following functions have been reported for these ingredients.

Opacifying agent - Myristic Acid, Palmitic Acid

Surfactant cleansing agent - Stearic Acid, Lauric Acid, Myristic Acid, Oleic Acid, Palmitic Acid

Surfactant emulsifying agent - Stearic Acid, Palmitic Acid

Scientific facts:

Stearic Acid, also known as Octadecanoic Acid, is obtained from animal and vegetable fats and oils. Humans have the ability to synthesize Stearic

Acid. In general, fatty acids are used in the production of hormones that regulate a variety of functions, including blood pressure, blood clotting and

immune response.

1

2 3

17.Tocopheryl Acetate

What is it?

Tocopherol, or vitamin E, a fat-soluble vitamin is a naturally occuring antioxidant which can be isolated from vegetable oil. When isolated Tocopherol, is

a viscous oil that varies in color from yellow to brownish red.

Rather than Tocopherol itself, esters of Tocopherol are often used in cosmetic and personal care products. These esters include, Tocopheryl Acetate,

the acetic acid ester of Tocopherol; Tocopheryl Linoleate, the linoleic acid ester of Tocopherol; Tocopheryl Linoleate/Oleate, a mixture of linoleic and

oleic acid esters of Tocopherol; Tocopheryl Nicotinate, the nicotinic acid ester of Tocopherol; and Tocopheryl Succinate, the succinic acid ester of

Tocopherol. Potassium Ascorbyl Tocopheryl Phosphate, a salt of both vitamin E (Tocopherol) and vitamin C (Ascorbic Acid) may also be used in

cosmetic products.

Other Tocopherol-derived ingredients that may be found in cosmetic products include Dioleyl Tocopheryl Methylsilanol, which is the dioleyl ether of

Tocopheryl Acetate monoether with methylsilanetriol, and Tocophersolan, which is also called Tocopheryl Polyethylene Glycol 1000 Succinate. The

addition of succinic acid and an average of 22 ethylene oxide groups to Tocopheryl makes Tocophersolan a water-soluble form of Tocopherol.

In cosmetics and personal care products, Tocopherol and other ingredients made from Tocopherol, including Tocopherol esters are used in the

formulation of lipstick, eye shadow, blushers, face powders and foundations, moisturizers, skin care products, bath soaps and detergents, hair

conditioners, and many other products.

Safety Information

The Food and Drug Administration (FDA) includes Tocopherol on its list of nutrients considered Generally Recognized As Safe (GRAS). Tocopherol is

also on FDA's list of GRAS food preservatives.

The safety of Tocopherol and related ingredients (Dioleyl Tocopheryl Methylsilanol, Potassium Ascorbyl Tocopheryl Phosphate, Tocophersolan,

23

Tocopheryl Acetate, Tocopheryl Linoleate, Tocopheryl Linoleate/Oleate, Tocopheryl Nicotinate, Tocopheryl Succinate) has been assessed by the

Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel. The CIR Expert Panel evaluated the scientific data and concluded that Tocopherol and the related

ingredients were safe as used in cosmetics and personal care products.

Why is it used in cosmetics and personal care products?

Tocopherol, Tocophersolan, Tocopheryl Acetate, Tocopheryl Linoleate, Tocopheryl Linoleate/Oleate, Tocopheryl Nicotinate, Tocopheryl Succinate,

Dioleyl Tocopheryl Methylsilanol and Potassium Ascorbyl Tocopheryl Phosphate all function as antioxidants. Tocopherol, Tocopheryl Acetate,

Tocopheryl Linoleate, Tocopheryl Linoleate/Oleate, Tocopheryl Nicotinate and Dioleyl Tocopheryl Methylsilanol also function as skin-conditioning agents

- miscellaneous.

Scientific facts:

Tocopherol, a fat-soluble vitamin, is found in vegetable fats and oils, dairy products, meat, eggs, cereals, nuts, and leafy green and yellow vegetables.

It is usually present in these foods as mixtures of different forms: alpha-, beta-, gamma-, and delta-Tocopherol. The alpha form has the same biological

activity as vitamin E. Tocopherols can be produced from vegetable oils or can be synthesized. Tocopherol Acetate, made by the esterification of

Tocopherol with acetic acid, is frequently the source of vitamin E in dietary supplements.

1

2

18.Water

What is it?

Water is used in the formulation of virtually every type of cosmetic and personal care product. It can be found in lotions, creams, bath products,

cleansing products, deodorants, makeup, moisturizers, oral hygiene products, personal cleanliness products, skin care products, shampoo, hair

conditioners, shaving products, and suntan products.

Safety Information

The quality of water used in the production of cosmetics and personal care products, called process water, is monitored according to Good

Manufacturing Practices outlined in FDA's Guidance on Cosmetic Manufacturing Practice Guidelines, and in international guidelines on Good

Manufacturing Practices known as ISO 22716. Some companies may also comply with the U.S. Pharmacopeia (USP) standards for the purity of water

used in drugs, devices and diagnostics published in the Purified Water monograph. USP Purified Water is prepared from water complying with the

regulations of the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) with respect to drinking water. It contains no intentionally added substances.

Why is it used in cosmetics and personal care products?

Water is primarily used as a solvent in cosmetics and personal care products in which it dissolves many of the ingredients that impart skin benefits,

such as conditioning agents and cleansing agents. Water also forms emulsions in which the oil and water components of the product are combined to

form creams and lotions. These are sometimes referred to as oil-in-water emulsions or as water-in-oil depending on the ratios of the oil phase and water

phase.

Scientific facts:

Only Water that is free of toxins, pollutants and microbes is used in the formulation of cosmetics and personal care products. Water used for this

purpose is also referred to as distilled water, purified water and aqua, the name used in the European Union.

24