ko´koDiplom

Collection

2010

b y m i c h a e l a w u n d e r l

Concept

Symbolism

Colour Concept

Fabric Concept

Silhouettes

Sketches

Photoshooting

ko´ko

12

456

7

3

concept 1

concept

»Now everything that becomes or is created must of necessity be created by some cause, for without a cause nothing can be created.«

{Platon}

The quote created the though that everything that becomes created must be based on an idea. This is where the question comes up, how exactly does the idea develop to the final creation/work.

The new collection »ko´ko« is shaped by the development of a hasty thought to an com-pleted idea.

This journey is symbolised by the metaphor of a cocoon. Like an euruca the idea dozes in the cocoon, sheltered by soft, finespun filaments, still per-meable for influences of the outside world. The idea grows up, protected by a cocoon, and makes room for itself so that it can redu-ce down to its essence at completion.

ko´ko

concept

collection’s separation in three phases

The development of the collection is split into three phases: the first phase is the descrip-tion of the initial state, the source with all of its influences, them being cultural, social or ethnological. These influences create the im-pulse to move the collection to stage two.

This again is seperated in three parts: the phase of inspiration, gathering materials and

exploring different, yet uncertain options. The second phase makes them more precise and narrows down the subject to let the idea emer-ge and manifest its nucleus in the third phase.

The idea is now fully developed and comes to the world. Hence you go back to the original state, making room for new ideas. The circle closes.

symbolism 2

The most remarkable property of a cocoon is the poise between fragility and stability. If looked at seperately, the fine filament is incon-siderable and breakable. Only the interaction of its parts assembles the whole thing. How-ever a cocoon always makes the impression of something emerging, something transient. Cocoons live for a moment, to collapse into its parts anytime and to create something new.

This metaphor can be found in the coll-ection too. Some outfits exhibit traces of the becoming, of the premature. This is symbolized by unsewed filament, which is similar to unfinished fabrics. The un-finished fabrics changes over time, un-sews and steadily created something new.

Every piece of the collection becomes an indi-vidual piece. The pieces change with their per-son wearing it and adjust to the person and his environment.

The openings at sleeves, back and sides is related to the spacing between the filaments of an unfinished cocoon. Translucent fabrics support the metaphor of transparency. Just like a cocoon the inside of pieces is visible at the beginning, but completely hidden at the end.

Transparent zipclips and buttons resemble the fragility of a cocoon. Providing safety and stability when being closed, they bare the vul-narable inside to the outside world.

the outfits exhibit traces of something becoming

symbolism

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symbolism

The texture of the collars and necklace shows the grain of the wood. The grain exists be-cause of annual rings. A multitude of winters and summers is stamped into the wood.

Like summers and winters eternalized in the wood, the idea is formed by highs and lows. Therefore the grain of the wood is a symbol for maturation of a collection/idea.

grains are a symbol of a maturing idea

colour concept 3

colour concept

The collection colors are of light shades, pale colors with a little white content prevail. White playes a central role, the colors points to the beginning, the white sheet of paper. At the same time it stands for the lightness of a co-coon.

The second acromatic color in the collection is gray. Gray symbolizes thoughtfullness, the musings over an idea and the vage direction of it. In contrast to grey, blue supplements the

colors as the color of utopia, the defined but unfinished direction. Being the color of fanta-sy it alludes the condition of each idea, being the color of water the required depths each idea needs.

The last color is light green. The color of vita-lity it contrasts the other tones. The german vernacular says „somebody is green behind the ears“, which with each development step is less and less the case.

from white to mint to blue to grey

fabric concept 4

fabric concept

The materials of the collection consists to a majority of natural fiber. The apparent analo-gy to the cocoon and its constructor, the silk-worm.The selected fabrics are rich of contrasts: light-weight fabricts are combined with compact fa-brics, translucent are contrary to opaque ones

This mirros the balancing act between stabili-ty and fragility of the cocoon in the selection of fabrics. Where thin fabrics are used at the beginning, these fabrics become thicker and thicker to the end following the development of the coll-ection.

the combination of light and compact fabrics

silhouettes 5

silhouettes

The fine woven cocoon develops its silhou-ette over time. Amorphic at the beginning it develops a shape over time. From seemingly chaotic silk threads a clearly defined structure develops. The inside of the cocoon makes room for evolvement: as soon as the inside is fully matured it breaks the cocoon and shows off ist potential.

The process of the development is mirrored in the collection. Every outfit represents a specific step in the development. Everything that becomes develops from a nucleus. Nuc-leus and outside world affect each other. This is expressed with the first outfit by ist clearly visibly balloon-like shape. This is a metaphor for the enclosed cosmos. In the cosmos the spark for the idea is triggered, making the sil-houette of the second outfit more open. Thus

uncovering formerly invisible layers. To that effect sparked the idea takes its course. At first various strands of ideas buzz around, all gathered without a final decision. This hesi-tance is found in the third outfit, the wide dress with its large wavy hem.The next three outfits describe the idea slow-ly assumings shape. The silhouette becomes more waisted, the structure more clearly defi-ned. A clearer separation of top and underpart becomes visibly. This metamorphose finds ist target in the next to last outfit: the reduction to the essential. The idea is accomplished and let out into the cosmos.

Letting out an idea allows a new beginning. This starts at the absolute zero. Going back to start is symbolize by the uniform shape of the last outfit. The circuit can now start again.

the delicate cocoon bit by bit develops its silhouette

sketches 6

sketches

the realistic illustration of the collection

sketches

the realistic illustration of the collection

22°01 'N

22°02 'N

hem length 128cmwaistband length 77cm

shoulder 6cm

center front 34cm strap length 45cm

zipper 30cm

sketches

the realistic illustration of the collection

22°03 'N

22°04 'N

center front 39cmbound pocket 2x15cm

sleeve length 40cmzipper 35cm

center back 82cmshoulder 8,5cm

zipper 60cmcirclet 147cm

sketches

the realistic illustration of the collection

22°07 'N

22°05 'N

22°06 'N

center back 48cmbound pocket 1,5x14cm

collar 6cm

button stay 4cmcenter front 82cm

shoulder 8,5cmdart 0,5cm

center front 55cmcollar 2,5cm

shoulder 14cmcirclet 107cm

sketches

the realistic illustration of the collection

22°09 'N

22°08 'N

center back 65cmbound pocket 1,5x14cm

pleat depth 3cmarmhole 38cm

center front 85cm shoulder 8,5cm

button stay 4cmhem 240cm

sketches

the realistic illustration of the collection

22°12 'N

22°11 'N

22°10 'S

bound pocket 1x13cmcollar width 4cm

sleeve lenght 45cmlapel width 7cm

center front 42/34,5cm bound pocket 1x14cm

chest application 8cmcenter front pant 15cm

shoulder 8cm

center front 50cmzipper 14cm

hem width 12cmwaitband 5cm

sketches

the realistic illustration of the collection

22°15 'N

22°14 'N

22°13 'S

center front 53/64cmbound pocket 1x12cm

placket 22cmcollar 4cm

open area back 22x10cmopen areas side 22x3cm

center font 82cmshoulder 6cm

center front 50cm transparent parts 10cm

zipper 30cm

sketches

the realistic illustration of the collection

22°18 'N

22°17 'N

22°16 'S

center back 22/31cm collar 10cm

placket 22cmpocket width 14cm

center front 60cmbutton stay 2x24cm

shoulder 6cmbound pocket 1x13,5cm

center front 50cm transparent part 5,5cm

zipper 14cm

sketches

the realistic illustration of the collection

22°20 'N

22°19 'N

center front 41cmzipper 40cm

sleeve 16,5/42,5cmshoulder 10,5cm

collar 2,5cm

circlet 150cmcenter front 145cm

strap width 2cmneckline 26cm

sketches

the realistic illustration of the collection

22°22 'N

22°21 'N

collar 5cmcenter front 70cm

welt pocket 2x17cmarmhole 20cm

zipper 56cmcenter front 55cm

shoulder 8cm

sketches

the realistic illustration of the collection

photoshooting 7

»The vast cosmos allows for something new.«

»The unbounded gathering, lead by hesitance.«

» Sheltered by fine-spun yarn, the work grows up in the cocoon.«

» The cocoon erupts and frees the result.«

» The circle closes.«