January

Tree Planting continues to head the list of

important gardening jobs for January. A wide

planting hole (3 times the size of the root ball)

ensures successful planting with trees in most

cases. Generally no amendment is necessary.

Small trees work well in foundation plantings.

Soil conditioner or compost is used to amend

clay soils when planting container grown plants

(Add a 3 inch layer of conditioner or compost

and mix in the soil planting hole.)

Winter watering —Keep in mind that plants,

especially newly set plants, need water during

winter months. A cold, dry wind is very

damaging to plants because it removes moisture

from the soil and the plant tissues. The only

way to know when a plant needs water is by

checking the actual condition of the soil in

which it is growing. When in doubt, scrape off

a few inches of the topsoil. If it is dry,

supplemental watering is needed. Mulches, drip

irrigation and soaker hoses help ease the task of

watering.

Check bulbs in

storage—Often dahlia

tubers and gladiolus

corms are attacked by

rot in storage. Throw

out any with rot.

Sulfur and fungicides

may be used during

storage.

Mulch—Strawberry beds,

bulbs, and perennials need

mulching for winter

protection. Wheat straw,

pine needles or other mulch

should be added now if not

already used. Pine needles

and wheat straw work best

for strawberries and should

be removed when the

blooms begin to appear.

Tree wound paints are virtually useless

in sealing pruning cuts. The effects are

mostly cosmetic. If you feel better

painting a cut, by all means do it. When

pruning large limbs at the trunk make the

cut outside the branch collar (a ring of

rough tissue at the point of branch

attachment). All trees can be pruned in

the dormant season.

Fertilize spring

flowering bulbs when

1 inch of growth is

seen above ground.

Put garden plans down on paper. Start a

garden journal. As

you walk the yard,

note what needs to be

trimmed or moved.

Lay out beds using a

garden hose to

eliminate mowing

difficulties.

Gardening Catalogues are

good gifts. Give old

gardening catalogs to church

or school. They are of great

use for Easter and spring art

works.

Over-

wintering

insect

populations can be reduced

by turning the

soil and

exposing the

slumbering

plant eaters to

the freezing

nights.

Test old seed by

placing 10 seeds on a

moist paper towel.

Roll up the towel and

put in a zip lock

plastic bag. Keep

warm. Check in a

week and see what

percent has

germinated.

Wood ash left over

from cozy fires can be

used as a soil amend-

ment on the lawn and

garden. This ash can

be sprinkled on bulb

beds, garden plots, and

the lawn. Use only on

non acid-loving plants.

Only 1 cup per 100

square feet of area can

be added. Before

adding again, take a

soil test.

Send soil samples to

NCDA, Agronomic

Laboratory now to

avoid spring rush.

Soil sample boxes and

information sheets

may be picked up at

the local Cooperative

Extension Office.

Keep compost pile turned

and watered weekly. Cover

to prevent water logging if

necessary.

Contact your

Extension

Agent to see

what spring

gardening

classes are

scheduled. Feed and water the

birds during cold

weather. Birds are

the gardener’s friend.

Early vegetables - On a warm day prepare a

spot in the vegetable garden for early vegetables.

Soil may be too wet to work come planting time.

Construct raised beds and fill with a soil mixture

(1 part compost and 1 part garden soil).

January (continued)

Lawns - Keep fallen

leaves from collecting on your lawn.

Prune - Broken and

undesired limbs from

shade trees and shrubs.

Propagation -

Hardwood cuttings of

many landscape plants

such as Crape Myrtle,

Flowering Quince,

Forsythia, Hydrangea,

Juniper, Spirea, and

Weigelia can be taken this month.

Start indoors the following plants from seed -

onions, asparagus, broccoli, cabbage,

cauliflower, collards, hardy herbs, annuals,

biennials and perennials. After germination thin

plants keeping the most vigorously growing

ones. Compare your planting time to the time it

takes to grow transplants to estimate when each needs to be started.

Houseplants - The four major causes of houseplant deaths during the

winter months are: over-fertilizing, over-watering, under-watering, and

improper light. Do not fertilize houseplants in the wintertime. Let your

plants go dormant (rest), a period of reduced growth, so that they will be

ready for vigorous growth in the spring months. For supplemental

lighting use a shop light fitted with one cool-white and one warm-white

bulb. When watering, use tap water and let warm to room temperature

before pouring on cold sensitive plants. The following houseplants adapt

well to warm indoor conditions:

A. Jade Plant B. Scheffelera C. Wax Plant D. Crown of Thorns E. Pothos F. Kalanchoe

Spray roses with

lime-sulfur this month

to control insects and

diseases.

Use that old

Christmas tree and

mantel greenery.

Prop the tree in a

corner of the yard and

decorate it with

popcorn and cranberry

garland, leftover fruit,

holiday fruitcake, or

bread. The animals

will love the sheltered

dining atmosphere.

Cut boughs and

needles can insulate

perennial and bulb

beds against severe

cold. Put the tree

stump in the firewood pile.

NOTES:

February

Over grown plantings that tend to become

bare at the base cannot be helped by tip or top

pruning. These plants must be cut back near the

ground to produce new growth down low. Old

established plants of Burford Holly, Cleyera,

Japanese Holly, Ligustrum, and similar broad-

leaved evergreens can be cut back 15 - 24

inches from the ground in the dormant season.

February and early March are good times for

severe pruning. Conifers (such as Arborvitae,

Pfitzer Juniper, etc.) cannot be as heavily

pruned as can broad-leaved evergreens. Shear

conifers.

Winter pruning

jobs include

trimming of tree

branches where

necessary, pruning out

diseased and dead

wood from shrubs and

climbing roses, and

the annual pruning of

old flowered wood

from deciduous

flowering shrubs —

those that bloomed

after midsummer.

Don’t prune early-

flowering shrubs until

after they have

bloomed.

Order flowers for

your significant other

for Valentine’s Day!

Gather branches

for forced flowering in

the house from pussy

willow, forsythia,

dogwood, plum,

flowering quince, and

Sweet-Breath-Of-

Spring.

Cut a few tall

stalks of Nandina

and Mahonia to the

ground to induce

compactness.

Prune boxwood in

early February before

new growth begins.

Work on your

garden journal by

adding sowing and

planting dates. This

will help you avoid

mistakes and to

remember what you

did when a crop does

well or perhaps not so

well. Also aids in

knowing where to

rotate vegetable crops.

Save plastic milk

jugs to use as covers

for baby plants; cut

off the bottoms.

Recycle mini-blinds

to use as garden

labels. Label with

permanent markers.

Coat your snow

shovel with a non-

stick cooking spray to

help the snow slide

right off when

shoveling.

Fertilize emerging

spring flowering

bulbs.

Study seed

catalogs early this

year and place order

before the spring rush.

Check local catalogs

for regional plants.

Mow liriope

(monkey grass) and

mondo grass to

remove wind burned

foliage.

Control wild

garlic with 2,4-D

amine or Image spray.

Mulch - This is a

good time to replenish

mulch in foundation

plantings and rose

beds.

Apply a dormant oil spray to fruit trees and

ornamentals for control of over wintering

insects and eggs. (Do not apply if temperatures

are below 40 degrees). Do not apply to broad-

leaf evergreens when freezing temperatures are

expected.

Prune rose bushes.

Thin to 3 - 5 good

strong canes and

shorten canes to 15

inches. Prune

climbers after they

flower in early

summer.

Start plants from

seeds early in the

month. Check list

from January or add

new ones. Sow

indoors under light.

Add 14-16 hours of

artificial light.

Service power

equipment Change

the oil, replace filters,

belts, and spark plugs,

sharpen or replace

blades of mowers.

February (continued)

Calcium chloride,

sand, or urea

fertilizer can serve

as de-icing salt on walks or patios.

Strawberries

should be planted in

February or March. If

you already have a

strawberry patch, pull

back the mulch from

blooming plants at the

end of the month.

Prune back

pampas grass to

within 20 inches (or

recommended rate for

other grasses) now

that the leaves are

dormant. Late

pruning could injure

new emerging leaves.

Ornamental grasses

can be divided now.

Prune fruit trees. Strive to keep the

height down and the

tree open for good

light penetration.

Peach diseases are

lessened when trees

are pruned in late February

Vegetables - English

peas, onions, Irish

potatoes, radishes,

rutabagas, spinach,

turnips, beets, and

carrots may be

planted outdoors

when soil is dry enough to work.

Lawn - Apply 10

pounds per 1000

square feet of 10-10-

10 fertilizer the last of

the month to cool-

season grasses

(fescue) or follow soil

test recommendation.

Blueberries should

be pruned now. Take

out all diseased and

damaged canes. To

control height, cut

back tall, vigorous

shoots to force lower-

level branching.

Check your corms, tubers, and roots

stored last fall and discard those that are

decaying. If decay is severe, move plant parts

to a drier place. If roots and tubers show signs

of shriveling they are too dry, so slightly

moisten the material in which they are stored.

Bulbs of lilies and caladiums can be potted for

an early start in the garden.

Herbs - Sow basil,

chives, parsley, sage,

summer savory and

sweet marjoram

indoors. To

encourage parsley

seeds to sprout

rapidly, soften the

seeds indoors by

soaking them

overnight in warm

water.

Insects - Begin

looking for pests,

particularly aphids

and cutworms that

like to chew on fresh

foliage.

Grape vines are

subject to winter

injury if pruned too

early. Prune after

most of the severe

cold has passed, but

before they leaf out.

Make a grape vine

wreath with the

trimmings.

NOTES:

March

Lilacs grow best in

full sun and a well-

drained soil. Fertilize

with one cup of 8-8-8

fertilizer and 3 cups of

agriculture lime placed

underneath the foliage

in the drip line every 3

years. The Persian and

Korean lilacs are

preferred over common

lilacs in our area.

Prune spring

flowering shrubs -

Just as flowers begin to

fade is the best time to

prune spring flowering

shrubs, such as spirea,

flowering quince,

azaleas, viburnums,

and forsythia.

Birdhouses

(including Martin and

Bluebird) can go up by

mid-March. Also clean

out old nests and repair

birdhouses as well as

cleaning the birdbath

and feeder.

Care of shade trees

(1) Never disturb the

root system, any

digging or hoeing

which damages roots

can slow tree growth;

(2) keep grass away

from the tree trunk for

the first few years to

reduce the competition

for nutrients and water.

The mulched area

should extend to the

tree’s drip line. Avoid

mulches around the

base of the tree trunk.

Divide established

perennials that are

overgrown. This is an

easy way to enlarge

your garden without

having to purchase

more plants. Two

spading forks can be

used to separate clumps

of overgrown

perennials. Or just

digging the whole plant

up and cutting it with a

landscaping shovel will

work.

Apply pre-

emergent

herbicides to shrub

beds by mid-March.

Use these chemicals

before mulching the

beds and follow the

label

recommendations.

Repot houseplants -

To keep potted plants

healthy they should be

repotted each spring,

scrub an old pot with

soap and water and dip

in a 10% Chlorine

solution before reusing

and repot in

commercial potting

mix. Do not fertilize

the first month after

repotting.

For a low

maintenance

landscape, plant areas

of dense shade with

ground cover

(examples are

Pachysandra,

periwinkle, ajuga,

lamium ivy, and sweet

woodruff) instead of

grass. Ground covers

are also especially

useful in an area

susceptible to erosion.

Voles can ruin prize ornamentals by chewing bark

on trunks and roots of trees and shrubs.

Populations build up during the late winter

months. To control voles use snap traps baited

with a piece of apple. Hardware cloth wire mesh

can be wrapped around the lower trunks of

specimen plants for protection. Some baits are

approved for chemical control. Call your extension

office for the most current recommendations on

animal control methods.

Pre-emergent weed

control for turf - As

a general rule of

thumb, crabgrass

preventers should be

applied while the

forsythia is in bloom.

(March or April)

Plant cool season

vegetables beets,

carrots, Swiss chard,

lettuce, greens, Irish

Potatoes, onion sets,

radishes, spinach.

Fertilize and lime

vegetable garden

before planting.

Biennials such as

pansy, hollyhock,

canterberry bell, forget-

me-not, wallflower,

English daisy, and

foxglove may be

planted for spring

bloom provided you

purchase well-

established plants.

Ivy - Cut back old

stands of ivy to 3

inches of height.

Plant a tree for Arbor

Day.

Tune up garden

equipment if not done

in January.

Tune up yourself. A regular regimen of

exercise before the

garden season will

prevent back injuries.

Turn a 5-gallon

bucket into a tool

holder/garden basket

by tying a carpenter’s

tool pouch to the

outside.

Use frozen juice

concentrate

containers, paper

towel inner rolls cut

into 3-inch rings to

protect seedlings from

cutworms.

March (continued)

Prune off faded

spring flower blooms

but leave foliage

undisturbed (daffodils).

Fertilize boxwoods

once each year with 1/4

cup of 10-10-10

fertilizer per plant.

Use polyester plant

covers or bed sheets

for frost protection in

the garden if needed.

Fertilize trees and

shrubs - Now’s an

excellent time to apply

fertilizer as new growth

begins. Use a special

nursery fertilizer for

each type of plant or a

complete fertilizer such

as

10-10-10.

Garden Journal -Work a lot on your garden

journal this month. Document your observations,

thoughts, and plans for the future. In your journal

list all plants in your garden as you observe or care

for them throughout the year. Include the names

of seed companies, plant names, and varieties,

planting date and harvest time.

Notes:

April Perennial plants should be set out this month so

they may become established before hot weather

sets in. Prepare beds using leaf compost or pine

bark (2 inches added) incorporating into the top 6

inches of the soil. Incorporate super phosphate

before planting. Get surplus plants from your

friends and neighbors they have divided and taken

out of their garden and set them out now.

Summer bulbs can

be planted in late April.

This covers dahlias,

gladiolus, tuberroses,

fancy-leafed

caladiums, elephant

ears, and cannas. Start

digging and storing

early flowering bulbs

such as ranunculus and

anemones as their

foliage begins to yellow.

Brown rot of peaches

and fire blight of

apples and pears are

common diseases this

time of year. Sprays

should be applied

during bloom for fire

blight and start a

regular spray schedule

for brown rot.

Spot anthracnose of

dogwoods begins to

show up now. A pre

and post bloom

fungicide spraying is

recommended if you

have had the disease in

past years.

Spray roses every 7 -

10 days for black spot

until frost, beginning

with the onset of new

growth and warm weather.

Azaleas and

camellias do best

with 2 light fertilizer

applications using an

acid type fertilizer

following spring

bloom. Regular

pruning, mulching and

irrigation are a must to

keep these plants flowering well.

Slug hotel - Control

slugs and snails using

carbaryl and

metaldehyde baits

placed in empty plastic

containers. Keep the

lid on and cut out 3/4

inch holes in the sides.

Pea Trellis - Make a

trellis from a single

stout wooden pole set

firmly in the ground.

Attach support strings

three-quarters of the

way around to form a

tepee framework

leaving opening for

easy harvest. Plant

edible-pod peas near string ends.

Spray red tip photinia with a general

fungicide for leaf spot

problems; wooden

homes and wooden

lawn furniture with

insecticide for

carpenter bees; and iris

beds with insecticide

for borers; and azaleas

with insecticide for lace bugs.

Keep writing in

your garden

journal

As you set out

young vegetable

plants cover them

with the top half of

milk jugs to protect

them from too much sun and windburn.

Transplant azaleas

so you can match and

group by color. They like some shade.

Mow fescue lawns

at 2 ½ to 3-inch height.

Mowing higher will

help to control weeds

and crabgrass.

Summer grass lawns

(Zoysia/bermuda)

should be mowed at ½

to 1 ½ inch height.

Fertilize Zoysia grass

at this time.

Stake growing

peonies. Don’t worry

about the ants.

April (continued)

Watch the weather

for late frost and

protect plants if possible.

Vegetables - Plant

beans, beets, carrots,

corn, cucumbers, squash, and tomatoes.

Plant warm season

grasses like Bermuda

grass, Centipede and Zoysia this month.

Both lavender and

sage can be cut back in

this month as new

growth appears. In

both cases do not cut

below the point of new

buds on the stems.

This would be 6 - 8

inches for lavender

above the ground and lower for sage.

After the last

expected freeze set

out transplants of herbs you started indoors.

Divide chives,

thyme, mint and

tarragon when new

growth emerges.

Propagate rosemary and thyme by layering.

Notes:

May

Prepare plants now

for dry weather -

Dryness can be

guarded against by

using a thin layer of

mulch (2-3 inches) of

pine straw, shredded

leaves, wood chips or

bark to conserve water

in the soil for use by

the plant. Place mulch

around base of plant.

Herbicide can be

used to control weeds

prior to planting

flowers. Roundup is a

common weed killer

that can be used.

Allow 30 days prior to

planting the flowers.

Frost sensitive

bedding plants can

be safely planted the

first week of May. Be

careful about the

amount of fertilizer

used at planting time.

One pound of complete

fertilizer (e.g. 10-10-

10) per 100 square feet.

Pinch plants for

flowers - Pinch back

mums, zinnias, salvia

(red sage), cockscomb

(celosia), petunias,

marigolds, and

snapdragons to slow

down top growth,

encourage lateral

branching and more

blooms. Use your

index finger and

thumbnail to break out

the lead growth at the

tip of the plant.

Divide Cannas. Clumps

of cannas should be

divided every three or four

years to encourage

flowering. Set divided root

sections 5-6 inches deep,

15 inches apart.

Fertilize crape

myrtles and rose of

sharon with one cup

of 10-10-10 per plant

to get abundant

summer bloom

throughout the summer

months; additional

application may be

needed in June. Spray

this month for aphids if

seen. If mildew occurs

apply fungicide.

Azalea leaf gall begins to show up now.

Swollen leaves covered

with a white powdery

material may be seen.

It is not too destructive,

just pick off the leaves

and trash them to

prevent spread of the

leaf gall.

Hang up the

hummingbird

feeders.

Cutting a rose - The

removal of too much

wood and foliage can

seriously weaken your

roses, especially during

the first year. Leave 2

- 3 well-developed

leaves between the cut

and the main stem. A

mixture of half sprite

and half water makes a

good floral preserv-

ative in your vase.

Give houseplants a

vacation - Potted plants

grown indoors over winter

can become a part of the

garden setting now. All

types of indoor plants,

including your collection

of foliage plants, may be

placed in the shady garden

border, mostly among

shrubs. Let plants spend

the summer outdoors to

thrive in nature’s rains and

fresh air. Control insect

pests as needed.

Prune wisteria now and throughout the summer to control size and

shape. Wisteria blooms on old growth and requires several years to reach

flowering size. Make them bloom: To promote flowering the following

spring, in June or early July, prune back vigorous shoots to 3 to 4 buds. Root

prune by use of a sharp spade inserted vertically into the ground 6 to 8 inches,

24 to 30 inches from the base of the vine, then fertilize with super phosphate.

Feed also in late fall with super phosphate.

Check for borers on deodar cedars- Borers on

these trees can weaken the tree and make it more

susceptible to winter injury. Spray with the Extension

recommended chemical control.

Check with local

garden shops for

innovations in drip

irrigation. A drip

system with timer can

be a great labor-saver

when dry weather

arrives.

Side dress (fertilize)

vegetables 6 weeks

after planting.

Spray red tip

photinia with

fungicide if leaf spot is

observed.

Plant tender

vegetables and

annuals - tomatoes,

peppers, eggplant,

okra, melons,

marigolds, zinnias, etc.

Do not cut back spring

foliage until it turns

yellow.

June

Planting container-grown plants - Unless the

container is one of the plantable types, always

remove the plant from the container. For the

plantable container remove the container if the

plant roots have not begun to push through. If

roots are pushing through then tear the upper 2

inches or so of the rim off and follow the

instructions for planting any container plant.

Remove flower

seeds - As you make

the rounds of your

garden, clip away

faded flowers of plants

that make seed

including crape myrtle

and rhododendron to

help develop more

flower buds for next

season’s bloom.

Dig flower bulbs -

As soon as foliage dies

down, dig tulips, Dutch

iris, and other hardy

bulbs. Divide and

replant bulbs

immediately, or store

in a cool place and

plant them in the fall.

It isn’t necessary to dig

them up each year, but

at least take them up

and divide often

enough to keep them

from becoming root

bound.

Make a critical

survey of your

landscape now that

deciduous trees and

shrubs are in leaf.

Note if you have too

much or too little in the

way of plantings. Late

this fall or during the

winter months you can

add to or subtract from

plantings. Remove

dead and dying wood

from trees at this time.

Summer pruning -

For bushy well-shaped

plants that bloom

profusely, prune shrubs

as they grow. Prune by

cutting or pinching out

growing tips to make

vigorous new shoots

from several branches.

In June, summer prune

abelia, forsythia,

privets, mock orange,

deutzia, althea, bush

honeysuckle, weigelia,

and euonymus.

Prune climbing

roses after they bloom

and fertilize at that

time.

Warm season sod

replacement - Now

is the time to replace

any warm season turf

that has suffered

disease or cold

damage. Sod can be

purchased in rolls or

square pieces. Cut the

damaged area out with

a shovel and lay the

new sod in the hole.

Water the sod heavily

one time. Then keep

the sod moist until the

root system take hold

and can support itself.

Top dress warm

season turf with

about 1 pound of

nitrogen per 1000

square feet. The extra

nitrogen will help the

turf grow during the

optimum growing

months of June, July,

and August.

Use golf tees to find

or mark location of

spring bulbs or

dormant plants.

Prune white pine and

narrow leaf evergreens

like Juniper and

Arborvitae

Spray non-selective

herbicides on woody

weeds such as poison

ivy, honeysuckle, and

kudzu. Be careful not

to spray on or near

desired plants.

Watch for dark brown

spots on tomato leaves.

Control with fungicide.

Continue spraying

fruit trees and bunch

grapes on a regular

basis with fungicide to

control rots. Spray

with insecticides if

needed. If only a few

trees, use a fruit tree

combination spray.

Harvest herbs - The

best time to harvest

most herbs is just

before flowering when

the leaves contain the

maximum essential

oils.

Dig onions and

garlic when about half

the tops begin to turn

yellow and fall over.

Brush the soil off then

cure them in a dark,

warm (80-85NF) well

ventilated space for

two to three weeks.

Store them in a mesh

bag in a dry, dark, cool

place.

Now’s the time to:

A. Snap off growing tips of your chrysanthemum plants. They’ll branch and bloom profusely. Also

side dress with 10-20-20 fertilizer at a rate of 1 cup per 100 square feet.

B. Feed nandinas with a complete fertilizer (10-10-10) so their bright berries will last through winter

C. Encircle lilacs with a complete fertilizer, rake it in and water thoroughly (1/4 cup).

D. Stake and tie brittle, new clematis stalks. Prune clematis after they bloom.

E. Stake dahlias when you plant them so they’ll have support later and will not be damaged by staking

after plants have grown.

F. Keep old flower blooms cut from annuals. This enables plants to produce more blooms for a longer

period.

G. Start stem cuttings of geraniums, leaf cuttings of succulents to be potted and used as houseplants

over winter.

H. Mulch azaleas, gardenias and camellias with 2-3 inches of compost.

I. Transplant seedlings of annuals such as marigolds and zinnias if the stands are too thick. Give all

annuals plenty of space to develop by thinning and transplanting.

July Weed in the cool-cool-cool of the evening -

If weeds have grown so large that pulling them

will disturb roots of nearby plants, do the weeding

in late afternoon or in cloudy weather. By doing

so, you give the nearby injured or disturbed plants

time to repair the damage before they face the hot

summer sun. Weeding after a rain helps the

removal to be easier.

Shade trees may need more water if they are

in declining health. Most of the water should be

placed at the outer reaches of the root system

where the small root hairs that take up the soil

moisture are located. When you water a tree, water

deeply - apply sufficient water so the soil is quite

moist to a depth of at least one foot.

Bagworms on

evergreens - Hand

pick the bags or use

Dipel spray if they are

still moving on the

plant.

Azaleas, camellia

and holly can be

propagated by cuttings

now.

Give landscape

plants a second or last

feeding of fertilizer to

increase size. Do not

fertilize trees and

shrubs after July. Stop pinching

Chrysanthemums

by mid-July.

Remember to

change directions

when mowing lawn to

have a more even cut.

Pinch off old bloom

heads of rhododendron.

Remove faded flowers

from Crape Myrtle and

perennials to encourage

second flowering.

Stake tall flowers or

vegetables.

Deadhead annuals.

Pick off dead blooms.

Where possible pinch

to a node on the stem.

Watch for white

flies - Control with

yellow sticky traps,

insecticidal soap, or

summer oil. Repeat

applications weekly if

needed.

Prune bleeder trees

such as maple,

dogwood, birch and

elm. Prune hedges as

needed.

Remove fruiting

canes of raspberry and

blackberry plants after

harvest is over.

Take soil samples

from your lawn areas

for testing. Soil boxes

and information sheets

can be obtained from

the local Cooperative

Extension Office.

Do not prune spring

flowering shrubs now.

Check for

caterpillars on

azaleas, cherry, and

pecan trees. Spray

with insecticide if

needed.

Cut basil, mint, and

oregano to keep them

compact and to keep

these herbs from

blooming and going to

seed.

Notes:

August

Watering -

Remember to give a

thorough soaking when

you water. Frequent

sprinklings can do

more harm than good.

You want to encourage

the growth of a deep

root system. Early

mornings is the best

time to water so foliage

will dry off quickly and not encourage disease.

Mulching of shrubs

and young trees can be

very important in hot

dry weather. Shallow

roots are protected

from the sun, moisture

is conserved and weeds

and grasses are

controlled with good

mulch. A 3 - 4 inch

layer of pine needles,

oak leaves, leaf mold,

or compost will help

grow strong, healthy

plants.

Transplant iris and

daylily in August or

September. By doing

so now, new

transplants will have

time to become well

established before cold

weather.

Fall conditioning is

a term gardeners are

beginning to hear. It

involves the use of

high potash and

phosphate fertilizers

(no Nitrogen) to slow

down growth and

harden plants for

winter.

Spray azaleas in late

August for lace bug

control. Two sprays

are needed now 10

days apart and again in

April.

Plant fall vegetables

- Examples: beets,

cabbage, greens, lettuce, and broccoli.

Fertilize warm

season grasses for

last time.

Fertilize strawberry

patch with nitrogen

fertilizer.

Plant pansy seeds in

flats for landscaping in September.

Trim red tip

photinia for fall color.

Keep an eye out for

oak worms and

sawfly larvae.

Although foliage may

be stripped from shade

trees it is not injurious

when done in late

summer.

Apply grub control this month to lawns.

Check with the

Extension Office for

recommended control methods.

Insects - Look for

different types of

insects in large

populations the next

two months and apply control if needed.

.

Gather bundles of

each type of herb and

spread on cheesecloth

or hang upside down in

a warm, dark, dry place to preserve.

Notes:

September

Lawn seeding - September is the optimum time

to start seeding and renovating fescue lawns.

Fertilize lawns in September, November, and

February for good root growth. Liming in the fall

is a must for a good lawn. Follow a soil test

recommendation.

Autumn Color Ideas - Ginkgo trees are

becoming an important source of brilliant yellow

color. Among other good choices for foliage color

from trees are: Sweet gum, Red Maple, Southern

Sugar Maple, Japanese Maple, Sourwood, and

Crape Myrtle. As autumn merges into winter,

you’ll want to accent the landscape scene with

berry color from such plants as pyracantha,

nandina, viburnum, beautyberry, and many of the

holly group. Don’t forget the brilliant red foliage

of burning bush, or rabbiteye blueberry.

Bulb planting - If

you are planning spring

color from bulbs,

now’s the time to order

bulbs for late October

and November

plantings. For best

landscape effect, plant

groups of bulbs in

between shrubs, or

scatter bulbs in wooded

areas to naturalize

them. Avoid planting

in a straight line.

Fruit Trees - Many

well-planned

landscapes include fruit

trees as seasonal accent

to the front or side

yard. A flowering

pear, peach, apple,

crabapple, or cherry is

every bit as showy as a

flowering dogwood in

the spring.

Garden Compost- Of continuing

importance is the

gardening practice of

composting leaves and

other garden refuse.

Never burn or throw

them away.

Controlling Annual

Bluegrass and

Chickweed is made

simple by using pre-

emergent herbicides

applied in mid-

September in the lawn

and shrub plantings.

Overseed warm

season grasses with

rye grass in late

September for fall and

spring green color. Plant pansies and

flowering

kale/cabbage for fall

color.

Late in the month -

divide peonies. Cover their buds with 2

inches of soil, then

mulch

Continue spraying

roses.

Collect dry

seedpods, unusual

leaves, rose hips, etc.

for dry arrangements.

Air-dry these materials

in a cool, dry, dark

location.

Set out landscape

plants this month

particularly perennials.

Transplant any

evergreen trees and

shrubs that need

moving this month.

Harvest luffa

gourds when they

begin to turn brown,

feel light and dry and

rattle when shaken.

Start drying herbs

such as basil, oregano,

sage, and others you

have been using fresh

all summer. You can

harvest annuals such as

basil till frost.

Notes:

October

Time to plant evergreen trees and shrubs-

Fall is a good time to plant and transplant

evergreen trees and shrubs. This transplant season

extends through the winter months. In selecting

evergreens, be certain to allow space for maturity.

A common mistake is in placing a large or fast

growing evergreen in a position where there is not

enough room for full height and spread.

Putting the Garden to Bed For The Winter

- Prevent many of next year’s insect and disease

problems by thoroughly cleaning debris out of the

garden. Pull out all annuals that have completed

their life cycle. Cut way all tops of perennials.

Remove debris from beneath all plants including

shrubs. Get your soil tested now. A nematode

assay may be useful to vegetable gardens if

suspect.

Flowering quince

(Japanese Quince) - Bears fruit, which can

be made into preserves.

Pruning - It is always

the right time to prune

out deadwood or

diseased wood from

shrubs, roses, and

shade trees. To insure

quick healing never cut

beyond the bark ridge.

Bearded Iris - For

success, have good

drainage, good soil,

and sunshine, clean

cultivation and

frequent resetting for

larger and finer

blooms.

Houseplants - Bring

houseplants indoors

when temperatures dip

below 50 degrees.

Give them a good bath

in soapy water or spray

with insecticidal soap.

Set poinsettia in a

dark place for blooms

by Christmas.

Sunflowers should

be harvested when

back of heads are

yellow. Leave a foot

of stem on each head

and hang to dry in a

bird/insect free spot.

Sow seeds of hardy

annuals (larkspur,

poppy, cornflower,

etc.) Where they are to

bloom.

October is a perfect

month to get

construction done.

Build walkways,

arbors, terraces, and

fencing during the fine

weather.

Fertilize spring

flowering bulbs -

Use a complete

fertilizer (10-10-10) at

rate of 1 cup per 100

square feet.

Divide hostas and

peonies if needed and

cover with mulch.

Cover water

gardens with netting

to keep leaves from

falling in pond and

clogging the filter

system.

Divide chives,

thyme, mint, and

tarragon. Chives,

coriander, dill and

parsley can be direct

sown in the fall. Plant

garlic cloves now to

have harvest in late

summer. Chives and

parsley taste better than

ever in cool weather.

Notes:

November

Select and plant trees and shrubs for a

permanent home landscape. Don’t scatter

plantings at random; it’s much better to have a

planting guide. A simple map locating trees,

shrubs and yard features will do a thorough site

analysis. Spend some time browsing in reference

books for landscaping ideas. You will find many

excellent gardening books in the library. Consider

a planting plan from a professional landscape

designer.

When you prune keep in mind that shearing

destroys the natural shape of many shrubs. To

reduce size and produce more compact growth, cut

out undesirable limbs from inside the plant. Do not cut all limbs at the same height.

After the first

killing frost. It is

time to mulch shrubs,

perennials and trees for

winter protection.

Winter mulch should

not be heavy or dense.

Cool days are

excellent times for

landscape construction

projects like decks,

walks, and fences.

Avoid soil contact with untreated wood.

Apply lime to

vegetable garden if needed.

Winterize your mower by first disconnecting

the spark plug wire. Drain out all the gasoline and

oil, and replace the old with fresh oil. Spray paint

under the clean deck to prevent rust. Remove and

clean the air filter. Pull the spark plug before

storing for the winter. Check for carbon build-up

and replace if needed. Gasoline stabilizer is available for stored equipment.

Keep your shears

and loppers in good

working order. Wipe

them with a rag dipped

in paint thinner to

remove sticky resins.

Sharpen and oil

thoroughly.

Collect unusual twigs

for dry arrangements.

Help Landscape Plants Escape Cold Damage:

A. In order to aid plants in escaping cold damage, it is wise to keep in mind

that a healthy well-fed plant will stand the coldest weather. Plants

should enter winter free of diseases.

B. Be sure not to feed plants too late in the season, as this often forces tender

growth that is subject to winterkill. Never fertilize with quickly

available nitrogen in late summer.

C. Select varieties that are hardy to Forsyth County.

D. Protect plants from prevailing cold winds. A fence or tall evergreen

hedge of trees or shrubs gives a good protection to tender landscape

plants.

E. Use hose sections on guy wires of newly planted trees, so the wire will

not damage the trunks in windy weather.

F. During severe freezes, plants that freeze and thaw slowly will be

damaged the least, thus the north side of a building with lots of shade is

the best for tender plants. Consider a windscreen of burlap or cheesecloth for tender plants.

Notes:

December

Weed out “Weed”

Trees and Shrubs -

“Weed” trees (unwanted

seedlings) and shrubs are

often a serious menace to

shrub plantings. Among

them are seedling oak,

maple, cherry, and

ligustrum. These often

grow unnoticed until they

have crowded valuable

shrubs. Pull or dig such from all plantings.

Treat Holiday Greens

- Anti-desiccants used to

prevent cold damage to

shrubs, also are useful in

preventing the quick

drying of cut greens used

in Christmas decorations.

Any greens that are not

used with their stems in

water (such as wreaths,

garlands, swags) will last

longer if they are sprayed

with one of the anti-

desiccants.

Late Fall Watering of Evergreens -

Only a short time need be spent in

preparing deciduous and evergreen plants

to withstand winter damage. The havoc

reaped from frozen ground, winter winds

and burning sun, can be your greatest

problem in preventing a healthy and trouble

free landscape next year. Plants are

winterkilled or damaged due to lack of

water at the root level. Dead plants in early

spring are obvious symptoms of winter

injury. Winter sun and wind often cause

brown leaves or large dead area in

evergreens such as junipers and yews, as

well as rhododendrons and other broad-

leaved evergreens. Evergreens should be

well watered before the ground has frozen.

This helps them withstand the undesirable

growing conditions of drought and water shortages during the winter months.

Clean bird feeders annually

with hot sudsy water to prevent

the spread of wild bird

diseases.

As chrysanthemums

die back, prune them to ground level.

Keep leaves from

collecting on your lawn.

Mulch strawberry beds for

winter protection.

Recycle Christmas Trees

A. The city pickup will chip up the trees.

B. Use boughs to protect tender plants.

C. Use the trees for a bird feeder.

D. The trunks can serve as garden stakes for

tomatoes or beans.

If you buy your Christmas tree early

you can reduce the risk of a fire hazard in

the home by following these suggestions:

A. Keep the tree in a shady location

outdoors in an unheated room till you use

it.

B. Re-cut the butt of the tree making a

diagonal cut at a 45-degree angle.

C. Place the butt in a container of water

and maintain the water level until bringing

indoors for decorating. While indoors,

keep watered at all times.

Notes:

We are pleased to offer this Guide of Month By Month Landscape Gardening. For more

information on the NC Cooperative Extension Service, Forsyth County Center,

information on horticulture, or educational programs offered by our staff, contact us at:

http://forsyth.ces.ncsu.edu/

or

www.forsyth.cc

Revised 2014 1450 Fairchild Road

Winston-Salem, NC 27105

Phone: 336/703-2850

Fax: 336/767-3557