Sailing Skiff

JACK SPARROW

JACK SPARROW LINESPLAN

11

10

89

765

4

3

2

1

T

WL-1

DWL

WL-1 45 Deg Diagonal

JACK SPARROWLOA: 12' - 0 "LWL: 9' - 7"Max Beam: 3' 9-1/2"Max WL Beam: 2' 11-1/2"Displacement = 261 lbs/ 4.2 cu ftCenter of Buoyancy = 5.0 ft aft FPCenter of Flotation = 5.48 ft aft FPWater Plane Area = 20.8 sq ftWetted Surface Area = 22.3 sq ftSail Area: 61 sfSA/WS Ratio: 2.69

B 2 B 3B 4B 4

CL

WL-1

WL-1DWL

DWL

CL

98 71110 65

432

1

DWL

B 3B 2B 1

JACK SPARROW Sailing Skiff a design byWilliamC Bates

Construction Notes and Suggested Building Sequence

IMPORTANT: READ THROUGH THESE NOTES START TO FINISH,B E F O R E B E G I N N I N G C O N S T R U C T I O N O F T H E B O A T

It is assumed that you already know how to work with epoxy and fiberglasscloth, and that you have built at least one wooden boat start to finish. If you havebuilt wooden boats using one of the traditional methods, the materials andtechniques described herein may seem flimsy or weak; but once assembledaccording the plans and sheathed with fiberglass and epoxy, the hulls areextremely strong, lightweight, and durable. A building manual written for theWanderer skiff is included with every plan package - this contains detaileddescriptions and photos of most of the techniques you will need to use in buildingJACK SPARROW.

I will supply extra detail sheets, if needed, for any part of the construction. Emailme at: wmbatesdesign@gmail.com for assistance.

SCARFING THE PLYWOOD and PLANK LAYOUT FROM OFFSETS

Sheet A gives the offsets for the three side planks and the hull bottom.Remember that you will ultimately need two of each side plank, one each for theport and starboard sides of the boat. Always cut your side planks out of 2 layers ofplywood at a time, helping to ensure they will be identical. When gluing thescarfed plywood sheets together end to end, it helps to match up the factory edgesalong one long side; this edge can then be used as a straight baseline during layout.For the Hull Bottom Panel, made out of 9mm plywood, only one layer of plywoodis needed.

For the Hull Bottom, start by cutting a 4x8 sheet of 9mm of plywood inhalf crosswise, to a length of 6 feet 6 inches. Then the sheet lengthwise exactly inhalf. You now have two sheets of plywood with dimensions of 24” wide x 6 ft 6inches long. Lay a pair of these sheets out end-to-end, aligning the factory edgesalong one of the long sides. Plane scarfs into the ends of the two 24” wide pieces,where they will be joined. Glue two sections together with thickened epoxy to

make a long sheet 16 feet long. [A tutorial on scarfing and gluing together plywoodsheets has been provided with this plan package.] Aligning both sheets so thefactory edges match up along the bottom, will make layout more accurate byforming a straight baseline.

When the epoxy has cured, draw a horizontal centerline down the long dimensionof the panel, then draw vertical station lines 12” on center, all the way from oneside to the other, crosswise. Layout the hull bottom shape on the plywood usingthe plan offsets. Tap in a small finish nail at each intersection point along thestation lines, then bend a flexible wood batten [approx 1” wide x 1/4” x 6 feet long]around the nails, and trace the curve onto the plywood. [an extra pair of handswill make this step go easier!] It is suggested to use pencil and keep the lines fairlylight when making both the layout lines and the actual plank edge lines, so thatyou can easily sand them off later, if finishing your boat bright. Once the hullbottom shape has been laid out on the plywood, cut out this shape using either acircular sawwith the blade set to a 3/4” depth, or a sabre saw. Placing flat 2x4scraps under the plywood every 24” or so makes this step go much easier. Leaveabout 1/8” of extra material outside the lines, and plane or sand to the line after youhave completed cutting out the hull bottom.

For the Three Hull Side Planks, follow the above procedure, using 6mmplywood. This time, make up 2 long sheets(24” wide x 6 ft 6 inches long), and setone on top of the other, aligning the factory edges on one of the long sides as abaseline. Draw vertical and horizontal station lines 12” on center. Then proceed tolayout and then cut out the plank shapes as described above.

A General Procedure for Tracing & Cutting Out Various Plywood Shapes

Print the pattern sheet at “ARCH D” size, which is 24” x 36”.

Cut out the paper pattern, leaving about ¼” extra all around

Lay the pattern on plywood [check to make sure you are using the correctthickness], smooth flat, and tape securely in place

Using a punch or nail, make small holes along the pattern line, every inch or so

Connect the holes with a pencil line, making curves as fair as possible

Cut out the shape, leaving a little extra material outside the lines; plane or sand tothe line, then coat the piece with unthickened epoxy resin

Note: Recommend you lightly sand all parts after cutting out and apply 2 coats ofepoxy resin, unthickened, on both sides and all edges before assembly.

SUGGESTED BUILDING SEQUENCE for JACK SPARROW

NOTE: Refer to theWanderer BuildingManual for clarification and instruction of any of the

following steps. This is only a suggested sequence; youmay findmore efficient ways to build the

boat and if you do, Bravo!

MAKEUP TRANSVERSE FRAMES, 2X COATS OF EPOXY

MAKEUP HULL PLANKING ANDHULL BOTTOM, 2X COATS OF EPOXY

FASTENHULL PLANKING AND BULKHEADS TOGETHERWITH COPPERWIRE TIES

CHECKHULL FOR TWIST, THEN “SPOTWELD” THE INTERIOR SEAMSBETWEEN THE COPPERWIRES.

REMOVEWIRESWHEN EPOXY SPOTWELDS ARE CURED, AND FINISHGLUING AND/OR FILLETING ALL HULL SEAMS

INSTALL DAGGERBOARD TRUNK

TURNHULL OVER, ANDGLUE ALL EXTERIORHULL SEAMS

FIBERGLASS THEHULL EXTERIOR - ONE LAYER 6 OZ CLOTH

ADD 2 EXTRA LAYERS OF CLOTH TO BOWAS REINFORCEMENT

APPLY 2 EXTRA COATS EPOXY OVER THE CLOTH, ALLOWTOCURE,THEN SANDHULL AND TRANSOM SMOOTHWITH 120 GRIT PAPER

TURNHULL OVER AND INSTALL DECK, RAILS, SEATS, ANDMAST STEP

CUTHANDHOLDS IN TRANSOMAND SAND SMOOTH

FIBERGLASS INSIDE OF HULL BOTTOMAND ANYWOOD PARTS

NOT COATED PRIOR

SAND ALLWOOD SURFACES SMOOTH, ADDING EXTRA COATS OF

EPOXY IF NEEDED

TURNHULL OVER

PRIME AND PAINT HULL

TURNHULL OVER

PRIME AND PAINT THE INTERIOR OF THEHULL

INSTALL HULL HARDWARE

MAKEUP THE RUDDER AND STEERING ASSEMBLY

MAKEUP THE DAGGERBOARD

BUILD THE SPARS

SET UP THE SAIL RIG

JACK SPARROW SHEET A HULL PLANKING OFFSETS

7 1/16"

typical station spacing

6 7/16"

11 1

/16"

6 1

5/1

6"

1 7

/8"

2 1

/16"

1 1

/4"

1'-0"

5 7

/8"

1 1

5/1

6"

3 1/16"

4 7/8"

7 7

/16"

2 5

/16

"

2 9

/16"

4 3

/16"

1 3

/4"7 3

/8"

1 1

1/1

6"

6 3

/16

"

4 1/16"

7 1

/8"

9 1

/2"

11

1/8

"

1'-0 1

/16

"

1'-0 3

/8"

1'-0

1/1

6"

9 5

/16

"

3 1

3/1

6"

1'-1"

6'-6"6'-6"

CenterlineCenterline

8'-9 1/16"

5'-8 3/4"

1'-5 7/8"

Fwd Edge of Aft Bulkhead9mm plywd

Fwd Edge of Middle Frame9mm plywdAft Edge of Fwd Bulkhead

9mm plywd

10'-4 1/16"

4 5

/8"

7 7/8"

4 1

3/1

6"

0 5

/8"5

1/4

"

5 5

/8"

6"

2 1

/16"6

1/1

6"

6 1

/16

"

5 1

5/1

6"

1 5

/8"5 1

3/1

6"

1 1

/4"

0 1

3/1

6"

5 9

/16"

5 5

/16"

0 5

/16

"

5 1

/16

"

4 5

/8"

5 11/16"

1'-0"

1'-0

"

typical station spacing

1'-0"

4'-0"8'-0"

1 1

5/1

6"4 3

/8"

4 3

/4"

4 1

5/1

6"

5 1

/16

"

5 1

/16

"

4 1

5/1

6"

5 1

3/1

6"

4 1

/4"

0 5/16"

1 9/16"

3 3

/4"

5"

5 3

/4"

6 1

/16"

4 3

/4"

4 1

/8"

2'-2

"

5 1

/16"4

1/2

"

2 1

/2"

3 1

1/1

6"

0 7

/8"

0 1

/4"

2 1

/2"

1'-0"

5 3/16"

8'-0"4'-0"

4'-0" 8'-0"

Puzzle Joint

7 7

/16"

0 5

/8"

7 9

/16"

1"

7 3

/4"

2 7

/16

"

3 1

/16"

7 1

3/1

6"

7 1

3/1

6"

3 9

/16

"

3 1

5/1

6"

4 5

/16

"

4 3

/16"

3 7

/8"

3 5

/16

"

7 5

/8"

7 3

/8"

7 1

/16"

Puzzle JointPuzzle Joint

Puzzle Joint

6 3

/4"

6 3

/8"

6"

5 1

1/1

6"

5 3

/8"

1

1

1

1 2 3 4 5

2 3 4 5

2

2 3

3 4

4

5

5

6

6

6 7 8 9 10

6 7 8 9 10 11

12

7

7

8

8 9 1011

9 10 11

Hull Bottom Panel9mm

Sheer PanelMake 2 6mm

Middle PanelMake 2 6mm

Bilge PanelMake 2 6mm

3 1

5/1

6"

10

12

9

3

7

10

8

9

8

Shackle: Seadog SD-147108 5/16"

4

6

Mainsheet Traveler Block Racelite RL-201

10

1

11

2

11

9

Racelite Stainless Eye RL-311

13 Stainless Tow Bolt:

3" Brass Horn Cleat

Pad Eye:

Mainsheet Blocks(2) Racelite RL-710-A

13

11

4

6

12

JACK SPARROW SHEET FRIGGING PLAN

Racelite Stainless Eye RL-311

Halyard: 5/16" non-stretch line

12

1

Halyard Cleat: 4" brass horn cleat

14

5

5

2

Yard Block - Racelite Swivel Block RL-305-A3

Racelite Stainless Eye RL-311

8

7

12

Downhaul - Racelite 1/4" Swivel Block RL-221

RudderUpperCheek9mm x 2

Rudder Inner

Cheeks

9mm x 2

SKEG3/4" Hardwood

RudderLowerCheek9mm x 2

Jack SparrowSkeg and Rudder Patterns

Rudder Core9mm2x

Rudder LowerCheek9mm2x

Rudder UpperCheek6mm2x

Rudder LowerCheek9mm2x

Rudder Upper Cheek9mm2x

Rudder Core9mm2x

Rudder Blade9mm2x

Rudder Pivot5/16" Hex head bolt

Rudder Upper Cheek9mm2x

Star Knob

Rudder Blade9mm2x

RUDDER

ASSEMBLY

DETAIL 2"

JACK SPARROW

HULL MATERIALS LIST

4 sheets 4x8x 6mm Okoume Plywood for:

Hull Planking

Daggerboard Trunk Sides

Deck: Use the 4x4 6mm leftover

3 Sheets 9mm Okoume Plywood for:

Hull Bottom

Bulkheads/Middle Frame: 9mm plywd

Seats: 9mm plywd

Rudder: 6mm & 9mm plywood/per plan

Transom: 9mm plywd, 2 layers

Daggerboard: 9mm plywood, 2 layers

Hardwood Stock Pieces:

Tiller: Ash or Oak Strips

Rails, Scuppers: ¾” x 1” Mahogany or Ash

Trunk End Spacers: 5/4” Ash(planed to 1” thickness)

Skeg: ¾” Ash

Copper Wire for Hull Panels

Fiberglass Cloth, 6 oz x 15yds x 38” wide

Epoxy Resin 1.5 gallon resin/hardener kit