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IMWSCC Board Chapter Chair Jolene Kaufusi Chair Elect Sarah Adams Secretary Stephanie Bartlett Treasurer Uyen Nguyen (Vu) Newsletter Editors Karen Ashe Krissie Gerrard Assistant Newsletter Editor Molly Nielsen Newsletter Publisher Brianna Purinton Intermountain West Society Of Cosmetic Chemists THE COSMETIC SUMMIT Newsletter Fourth Quarter 2017 Foruth Quarter Sponsors: Chemyunion Lipoid Koster & Keunen Cooking with Chemistry Chocolate Covered Peanut Butter Balls: A Glimpse into my Childhood Kitchen By: Lisa Barnes I was born into a family of engineers and chemists so science runs through my veins. I was also born into a family that was rooted in the deep south so from the time I was very little I was in the kitchen. Every family event centered around amazing food and the passing down of family recipes from generation to generation. Having a biochemist as a mom meant that these family baking times were also learning experiences and a discussion of why certain ingredients were used, why they were combined in a certain order, and why certain techniques were needed produce the desired results for a loaf of bread, banana pudding, or the perfect bowl of grits. It really sparked an interest and curiosity in me early on to not only just add the ingredients according to recipe, but to really seek to understand the recipe and to see how changing different ingredients impacted my final product: perfect early practice to eventually become a cosmetic chemist! Out of all the recipes that I made with my mother growing up my all-time favorite (because I am obsessed with chocolate and peanut butter) was, and still is, chocolate covered peanut butter balls. My mom taught me how to achieve the satisfying crunch that you get biting into the perfect chocolate covered peanut butter ball and the shiny gloss that makes your mouth water by adding canning wax. She also showed me how to achieve the right consistency of the peanut butter filling that doesn’t ooze out of the chocolate when you take a bite. We even moved beyond peanut butter to try other fillings: coconut and cherries, among other flavors- but those recipes are for another day! Enjoy this perfect treat and try to eat just one (a near impossible task!) Chocolate Covered Peanut Butter Balls: 16-oz creamy peanut butter 1 (16-oz) package powdered sugar 1 cup butter, softened 1 (12-oz) package semisweet chocolate 1/8 stick canning wax 1. In a large bowl combine peanut butter, powdered sugar, and butter with an electric mixer. Beat until smooth. Scoop

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Page 1: Intermountain West Society Of Cosmetic Chemists THE … · on baking sheet and refrigerate 30 minutes. 2. Line another baking sheet with waxed paper. Place chocolate chips in top

IMWSCC BoardChapter ChairJolene Kaufusi

Chair ElectSarah Adams

SecretaryStephanie Bartlett

TreasurerUyen Nguyen (Vu)

Newsletter EditorsKaren AsheKrissie Gerrard

Assistant Newsletter EditorMolly Nielsen

Newsletter PublisherBrianna Purinton

Intermountain West Society Of Cosmetic Chemists

THE COSMETIC SUMMITNewslet ter

Fourth Quarter 2017

Foruth Quarter Sponsors:

Chemyunion

Lipoid

Koster & Keunen

Cooking with ChemistryChocolate Covered Peanut Butter Balls: A Glimpse into my Childhood Kitchen

By: Lisa Barnes

I was born into a family of engineers and chemists so science runs through my veins. I was also born into a family that was rooted in the deep south so from the time I was very little I was in the kitchen. Every family event centered around amazing food and the passing down of family recipes from generation to generation.

Having a biochemist as a mom meant that these family baking times were also learning experiences and a discussion of why certain ingredients were used, why they were combined in a certain order, and why certain techniques were needed produce the desired results for a loaf of bread, banana pudding, or the perfect bowl of grits. It really sparked an interest and curiosity in me early on to not only just add the ingredients according to recipe, but to really seek to understand the recipe and to see how changing different ingredients impacted my final product: perfect early practice to eventually become a cosmetic chemist!

Out of all the recipes that I made with my mother growing up my all-time favorite (because I am obsessed with chocolate and peanut butter) was, and still is, chocolate covered peanut butter balls. My

mom taught me how to achieve the satisfying crunch that you get biting into the perfect chocolate covered peanut butter ball and the shiny gloss that makes your mouth water by adding canning wax. She also showed me how to achieve the right consistency of the peanut butter filling that doesn’t ooze out of the chocolate when you take a bite. We even moved beyond peanut butter to try other fillings: coconut and cherries, among other flavors- but those recipes are for another day!

Enjoy this perfect treat and try to eat just one (a near impossible task!) Chocolate

C o v e r e d P e a n u t

Butter Balls:

16-oz creamy peanut butter

1 (16-oz) package powdered sugar

1 cup butter, softened1 (12-oz) package semisweet

chocolate1/8 stick canning wax

1. In a large bowl combine peanut butter, powdered sugar, and butter with an electric mixer. Beat until smooth. Scoop

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2 IMWSCC 4th Quarter 2017

SnLFebruary 8th

Midvale, Utah

Table of Contents

Cooking with Chemistry p.1-3

Chemists Corner p. 5-6

The Business Brief p. 7

Patent Law 125 p. 9

IMWSCC Spotlight p. 11

Regulatory Department p. 12-14

INCI Highlight p. 15

Meeting Agenda p. 16-17

Speech 'n Splash Meeting Synopsis p. 19

Quarterly Sponsors p. 20

Read to Win!Somewhere in the newsletter we’ve hidden the IMWSCC favicon symbol it looks like this - . Spot it and email Jolene ([email protected]) the page number and place where it is and you’ll be entered in a drawing for a chance to win a gift card at the next meeting.

Speech & SplashMay 24th

Location TBA

TnT Aug 22nd-23rd

Location TBA

December MeetingsDecember 5th & 6thLocation TBA

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4th Quarter 2017 IMWSCC 3

Cooking with Chemistry Continued:

Intermountain West Region:Brian Pickel | 480.545.7000 | [email protected]

24/7 Online Ingredient Information:

The Natural Solution

BOTANICAL EMOLLIENTS & SPECIALTY PARTICLES

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www.floratech.com

Labeli ®

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out spoonfuls and roll into 1-inch balls. Arrange on baking sheet and refrigerate 30 minutes.

2. Line another baking sheet with waxed paper. Place chocolate chips in top of a double boiler. Melt over simmering water, stirring until smooth. Add canning wax (shaved thinly). Stir until dissolved thoroughly. Using wooden toothpicks, dip balls into the chocolate to coat completely, letting excess drip back into the pan. Set the balls on prepared sheet. Store in refrigerator.

Makes 50 pieces.

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SILAB creates and manufactures unique, consistently safe, naturalactive ingredients with proven efficacy.

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Fine Ingredients, Minerals, Colors, Surface Treatments, Proteins, Powders

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Lipo to become

Suga®Nate 160NCSodium Laurylglucosides Hydroxypropylsulfonate

• Lowest* eye irritation score• 100% naturally-derived• EO-free, palm-free, biodegradable • High-foaming• Ships without preservatives

Suga® is a registered trademark of Colonial Chemical Inc. EpiOcular™ is a trademark of MatTek Corporation. © 2107 Colonial Chemical Inc.

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4 IMWSCC 4th Quarter 2017

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GlyAcid® is the new global benchmark for high purity glycolic acid.

CrossChem’s GlyAcid® is produced using a

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process that does not use formaldehyde while

delivering a high purity glycolic acid in 57%

solution, 70% solution, and 99% crystalline.

Replace your current glycolic acid with an

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personal care formulations.

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Sunscreen Technology ● Surface TreatmentsDispersions ● Microspheres ● Film Formers

Special Effect Pigments ● Natural IngredientsDelivery Systems ● Custom Development

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Custom InnovationTechnical SupportTrend Forecasting

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industry for 45+ years

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4th Quarter 2017 IMWSCC 5

Perry Romanowski: ChemistsCorner.com

The Challenges of Formulating a Natural Cosmetic LineBy: Perry RomanowskiNatural cosmetic and beauty products are in vogue these days and cosmetic marketers around the world are looking to launch their own version that appeals to green-seeking consumers. However, making natural cosmetics is fraught with difficulties stemming from the fact that beauty products do not exist in nature. The biggest challenges in making natural cosmetics include defining what is natural, making products that are suitably functional, and preservation. We’ll review each of these in detail and suggest how to deal with them.

Defining Natural

Before we can review natural cosmetics it is helpful to first discuss what is meant by the term “natural.” Since there is no Shampoo bush or Skin Lotion tree by some measures there are NO natural cosmetics. However, it is acceptable to define natural cosmetics following specific standards. For this discussion we’ll use a three level classification system of natural cosmetics. These include:

True natural – Ingredients are isolated from a plant, chemically purified, but otherwise unchanged

Acceptable natural – Ingredients conforms to some acceptable natural standard which allows some chemical modification

Greenwashing natural – Ingredients are naturally derived but requires significant chemical synthesis to produce. Also, it is not normally used so looks more natural on the label.

Of these, the vast majority of natural products on the market would be considered greenwashed.

Making Functional Products

The biggest challenge of making natural cosmetics is that consumers have an expectation of how well products are supposed to work. While consumers might say they want green or natural products, they really want products that work. When formulating natural cosmetics it becomes difficult because natural or naturally derived ingredients do

[email protected]: (201) 791-6700c: (714) 365-6811

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card 53

Maily TranWEST COAST REGIONAL DIRECTOR

not work as well as some of the synthetic ingredients. This is especially true for surfactants, colorants and preservatives.

Surfactants

Cosmetic surfactants are the most versatile and important ingredients in cosmetic formulations. Unfortunately, there are not many surfactants that naturally occur so trying to make natural formulas with surfactants is a real challenge.

True natural – There aren’t many natural surfactants that are adequate for use as a cleansing surfactant. The only one that comes close are Saponins. These are glycoside compounds which have the ability to form foam when put in a water solution. They are found in plants like Yucca (Yucca schidigera), Soapwort (Saponaria officinalis), Soapbark (Quillaia saponaria) and Soapnut (Sapindus spp). The majority of commercial saponins are derived from Quillaja bark or soapnut and obtained through water and alcohol extraction. Unfortunately, formulators who have reported using saponins for cleansing products have been disappointed.

Acceptable natural – If you are formulating to the USDA natural organic standards there are no natural surfactants you can use. Some companies like Nourish Organic use a chemical trick where they create a surfactant in-situ by including natural ingredients that chemically react to make a soap. In the formula linked the Coconut Oil will saponify with the Potassium Hydroxide. But liquid soaps like these are harsh on skin and most consumers don’t like how they feel.

If you are following the COSMOS standard there are a number of surfactants that are acceptable. The ones that are typically used for cleansing products are:

Lauryl GlucosideDecyl GlucosideCaprylyl/Decyl Glucoside

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6 IMWSCC 4th Quarter 2017

There are some colorants that don’t require FDA certification and come directly from nature such as Annatto, Chlorophyllin, Carmine, Henna, and Caramel. Unfortunately, these ingredients are limited in the colors they can provide.

The strategy that most natural cosmetic companies follow is to either use the direct-from-nature colorants or use standard colorants but claim to use natural ingredients, arguing that these ingredients can be found in nature.

Preserving Products

Even if you can find naturally derived ingredients that fit your definition of “natural” you will still have the problem of keeping them free from contamination and microbial growth. When you use natural ingredients this becomes more challenging because microbes are natural and are found in nature. Effective preservatives such as parabens, formaldehyde donors, and organic biocides do not fit with a natural theme so you’ll need alternatives. These include phenoxyethanol, phenethyl alcohol, organic acids and their salts, benzyl alcohol, and other natural materials.

What makes this problem most challenging is that the natural preservatives have shortcomings not found in traditional preservatives. For example, phenoxyethanol and phenethyl alcohol have a distinct odor that is difficult to cover. Organic acids only work as preservatives at lower pH levels which isn’t ideal for certain types of beauty care products. Benzyl alcohol is a known allergen. And other natural materials like tea tree oil, rosemary or cinnamon are not broad spectrum enough to work as a stand alone preservative.

Conclusion

While creating truly natural products can be challenging, it can be done demonstrated by successful brands like Burts Bees, Aveeno, and Physicians Formula. It requires you to

figure out what your consumer believes is natural then make products that adhere to those natural standards. After that, success is just a matter of good marketing.

About the AuthorPerry has been formulating cosmetic products and inventing solutions to solve consumer problems since the early 1990’s. Additionally, he has written and edited numerous articles and books, taught continuing education classes for industry scientists, and developed successful websites. His latest book is Beginning Cosmetic Chemistry 3rd Edition published by Allured.

AMERICAN GLITTERS: Full range of cosmetic glitters produced with permitted approved colorants

BLP CORP: Functional and specialty active ingredients

CLS TECHNOLOGY: 95% Pure beta 1,3 glucan for topical immune system support and advanced healing

CR MINERALS: Pumice

EARTH SUPPLIED PRODUCTS:NOP and NPA raw ingredients, innovative natural encapsulations, gellants, and exfoliants

ELÈ CORPORATION: Surfactants and Functional Materials

EMD: Special e�ect pigments, functional fillers, actives, and sunscreen ingredients

FRANK B. ROSS: Natural and synthetic waxes

FUJI SILYSIA: Synthetically produced amorphous silica gel

ICM PRODUCTS: Silicones, defoamers, and additives

IMERYS: Kaolin, Perlite, and Diatomaceous Earth

IOI Oleo GmbH: Emollients, Emulsifiers, Solubilizers, Surfactants, Multifunctionals, Stabilizing Agents and Consistency-Agents

J. RETTENMAIER: Natural Cellulose Fibers, thickeners, suspension, and scrubs

JUNGBUNZLAUER: Citrics, Gluconates, Lactics, Special Salts, Sweeteners, Xanthan Gum, and Specialty Citrate Salts

PREMIER SPECIALTIES: Fragrances, flavors, and natural ingredients

SASOL: Specialty emulsifiers, AHA-esters, MIPA-laureth sulfate, vegetable derived para�ns

SOLVAY: Precipitated silica and MicroPearl silica exfoliant

SYTHEON: Proprietary innovative ingredients for hyperpigmentation, acne, aging, and skin protection

TROY CORPORATION: Preservatives

WORLEE: Polymers, color concentrates, aloe vera gel, oil, and powder

Chemist Corner Continued...

Coco Glucoside

Cocamidopropyl Betaine

Interestingly, the COSMOS standard even allows for the use of Sodium Lauryl Sulfate since it can be derived from natural sources.

Greenwashing natural – Since many natural consumers are tuned in to chemical scaremongers the use of cleansing surfactants like SLS is probably not a good idea. Sulfates have a bad reputation on the Internet and even though they are considered natural by the COSMOS standard, consumers wouldn’t accept that. However, some companies simply replace scary sounding ingredients like Sulfates with other synthetic anionic surfactants. These include ingredients like Taurates, Sarcosinates, and Glutamates. As long as you avoid sulfates, you can pretty much use any type of naturally derived synthetic surfactant and call yourself natural.

Colorants

In the United States there is no ingredient more highly regulated in cosmetics than colorants. It is illegal to use any ingredient (no matter the source) to color cosmetics that isn’t approved by the FDA for such use. This means if you are producing natural cosmetics you will be strictly limited to the colors you can use.

The vast majority of approved colorants are synthetic ingredients. Even so-called mineral make-up ingredients like iron oxides, zinc oxide and titanium dioxide are all synthetic. Although these ingredients occur in nature, the only approved versions must be synthetically produced in the lab. This is a result of the fact that the naturally occurring minerals are laced with dangerous natural heavy metals like lead, cobalt or arsenic. The synthetic versions have much less contamination.

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4th Quarter 2017 IMWSCC 7

Rachel Sabin: [email protected]

By: Rachel SabinThis time of year, we think of thankfulness more often than others. We may spare a few moments to contemplate gratitude as we cut the turkey, but thankfulness deserves more than just our seasonal devotion. Making appreciation part of our daily rituals provides remarkable benefits. Feeling gratitude, and expressing it, has a tremendous impact on our performance at work and our quality of life; it can elevate our emotional wellbeing and our career.

We often regard giving thanks as a service provided to the recipient. While appreciation does uplift the receiver, research has shown that the giver benefits just as much.1,2 Being grateful shields us against stress, strengthens our immune system, decreases our blood pressure, promotes better sleep, and wards off depression.1

How does it impact our work performance? Most of us experience downs in our mood every day at work. The demands of our job can quickly deplete our emotional reserves and leave us feeling anxious, pessimistic, and grouchy. Not surprisingly, we function better when we have positive energy. Voicing appreciation is one way to send our emotions on an upbeat rebound.2 Further, thankfulness strengthens our relationships with our coworkers and promotes their

performance. Colleagues that feel valued are less likely to fall into mood traps of their own.

William Arthur Ward once wisely said, “Feeling gratitude and not expressing it is like wrapping a present and not giving it.” So, how do we make communicating thankfulness a regular part of our lives?

1. Establish habits. As with any activity, creating a specific routine for expressing gratitude makes it more likely to happen frequently.2

2. Be specific when expressing gratitude. Appreciation is much more impactful when it is specific. Instead of “thanks for everything,” give details on exactly what you are thankful for.1

3. Communicate gratitude with handwritten notes and letters. A handwritten note is a powerful way to convey thanks, perhaps because of the greater effort involved.1,2

Maybe it’s time to rethink thankfulness.

Reference1. Seidman, E. (2016). The Power of Gratitude. Time.

2. Schwartz T. & McCarthy C. (2007). Manage Your Energy Not Your Time. R0710B. Boston, MA: Harvard Business Publishing.

The Business BriefThink to Thank

Swing 'n LearnFebruary 8th

Top GolfMidvale, UT

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8 IMWSCC 4th Quarter 2017

A LEADING SUPPLIER OF UNIQUE SPECIALTY INGREDIENTS TO THE COSMETIC AND PERSONAL CARE INDUSTRY

WHERE SCIENCE MEETS FASHION

•Over 100 in vivo tested actives • Prompt regulatory support, formulation assistance and prototypes

• Latest color, trends and textures from Asia

We invite you to contact our Western Region Sales Executive Aaron Peterson 801-310-6075 [email protected]

WWW.BARNETPRODUCTS.COM

We’ve got the whole world in our hands………. well 100 countries at least.

International Cosmetic & Food Regulatory Consultants

International product notifications Label development/reviews Responsible party services Product Information Files (PIF)

Ingredient/formula compliance reviews Claims development/review In-country regulatory maintenance Vendor documentation assessments

www.theregulatorydepartment.com Scott Taylor (801) 754-4443 [email protected]

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4th Quarter 2017 IMWSCC 9

Ryan Marshall: [email protected]

Patent Law 125Injunctive Relief

In a prior article, I mentioned that the Supreme Court would decide a case affecting the venue where patent owners and defendants resolve patent disputes. The Court did, and now the landscape is changing.

Venue is the place from which a jury is drawn and in which trial is held. Often, the appropriate venue for enforcing a case is the vicinity in which the events took place that led to an injury or where a defendant resides. Plaintiffs carefully choose venue so that the forum they select is friendly to their case. The Eastern District of Texas has been very popular for patent owners.

The Supreme Court’s recent decision held that venue for accused patent infringers is only appropriate where the defendant resides or where the defendant has committed acts of infringement and has a regular and established place of business. For corporations, residence is typically the state of incorporation. Accordingly, patent plaintiffs no longer have wide latitude to choose venue but are limited to the defendant’s place of incorporation and locations where it has a physical presence.

Recently, the appeals court handling patent matters ruled that the Supreme Court’s decision represented such a change in law. As such, defendants in pending patent litigation could file motions to change venue even in cases where opportunities previously had long since passed.

Generally, under Rule 12 of the Federal Rules of Civil Procedure, a defendant must file a motion to change venue prior to answering a complaint. If a defendant failed to move the court to transfer the case to a different court, courts deem that the defendant waived that right. Courts will not apply the waiver, however, when there has been an intervening change in the law.

In the case entitled In Re Micron Technology, Inc. a panel of appellate judges at the Federal Circuit Court of Appeals ruled that the Supreme Court’s venue decision “changed the controlling law” so that prior to that decision the venue defense was unavailable, thus making the waiver rule inapplicable. Prior to this appellate decision, the district courts inconsistently decided this issue.

By: Ryan MarshallThe newest ruling will enable other defendants in pending patent litigation to rely on the Supreme Court’s decision to change venue to a more favorable jurisdiction for the defendant. Thus, the Micron decision represents another ruling in which the courts are making it easier for defendants to challenge venue in patent infringement cases. Because of these decisions, the number of cases in which a defendant may successfully change venue to a

more preferred jurisdiction will increase.

Plaintiffs still have the option of forgoing normal jurisdiction by filing their enforcement complaints before the U.S. International Trade Commission (“ITC”). Such actions require that there be an import or export of products covered by patents. Otherwise, in a dispute between two domestic companies, traditional district court litigation remains the more appropriate forum for resolving patent disputes.

In light of these recent rulings, defendants in patent infringement suits are more

likely to choose the venue which they are incorporated. Many commentators believe this change represents a leveling of the

playing field for patent disputes.

This article is intended to provide information of general interest to the public and is not intended to offer

legal advice about specific situations or problems. Brinks Gilson & Lione does not intend to create an attorney-client relationship by offering this information, and review of the information shall not be deemed to create such a relationship. You should consult a lawyer if you have a legal matter requiring attention. For further information, please contact a Brinks Gilson & Lione lawyer.

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10 IMWSCC 4th Quarter 2017

ONLINE REGISTRATION ENDS NOVEMBER 30, 2017

REGISTER TODAY! www.scconline.org/annualmeeting2017

JENNIFER MARSH, PH.D. Research Fellow, Beauty Technology Division at P&G Beauty

71st

ANNUAL SCIENTIFIC MEETING

& TECHNOLOGY SHOWCASE

December 11-12, 2017 The Westin New York at Times Square

JOIN THE COSMETICS & PERSONAL CARE COMMUNITY AND LEARN THE LATEST BREAKTHROUGHS IN COSMETIC SCIENCE!

ELAINE FUCHS, PH.D. Rebecca C. Lancefield Professor of Mammalian Cell Biology and Development at The Rockefeller University and Investigator of the Howard Hughes Medical Institute

JOHN C. WARNER, PH.D. President & Chief Technology Officer at The Warner Babcock Institute for Green Chemistry, LLC

RICHARD BLACKBURN, PH.D. Associate Professor at the University of Leeds and Founder of Keracol Limited

CLAUDIA AGUIRRE, PH.D. Neuroscientist and Mind-Body Expert

STANLEY QI, PH.D. Assistant Professor Departments of Bio-engineering, Chemical and Systems Biology and Faculty member, ChEM-H at Stanford

LEARN THE LATEST FROM THESE AND OTHER KNOWLEDGE EXPERTS

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4th Quarter 2017 IMWSCC 11

Spotlight:Krissie Gerrard

Where were you born?

I was raised in Minnesota and am a Minnesotan at heart (although I was born in Murray, Utah).

Favorite leisure activity?

If the weather is nice I’m running or hiking otherwise I am at home reading a book.

Who was your first role model or hero?

My grandma was definitely my first role model. She is a no-nonsense 4 feet 10 inch ball of fire and spunk. She started her own million-dollar cleaning company, has great fashion sense, and eats sugar by the pound.

What is your favorite color?

I found a crayon named “Screamin’ Green” when I was a kid and knew it would always be my favorite color.

What would your ultimate vacation be?

A trip to Alaska to hike, enjoy the outdoors, and go salmon fishing. I wouldn’t mind going again to Italy to eat authentic pizza and visit the art galleries.

What would someone meeting you for the first time be most surprised to learn?

I did kickboxing growing up and was offered the opportunity to be a sponsored circuit fighter. I had to choose between fighting or college and chose college. Best decision because I have all my teeth, don’t have a crooked nose, and I love to formulate skin care products.

If you could go back and give 5-year-old Krissie one piece of advice, what would it be?

Don’t wait until you are in your twenties to try Indian Food and long-distance running.

Favorite TV/web show?

Depends on the genre. Comedy: Seinfeld, Horror: Hannibal, Thriller: Wayward Pines.

On any given weekend, what are you most likely to be doing?

I’m on maternity leave and spend weekdays at home changing diapers and snuggling with my 2-month-old son, Nolan, so I spend my weekends trying to catch up on sleep and running errands. He is the chunky baby (born at 9lbs 7oz) with the blue hat in the picture.

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12 IMWSCC 4th Quarter 2017

Symbols are a great way to inform the consumer that the product they are purchasing is high quality, safe, and efficacious. Symbols also don’t require translation and can help with SKU management. The problem is that certain symbols are regulated by strict guidelines and some symbols don’t make sense for some countries. The three most commonly misused symbols I see are:

1. E mark (estimated symbol)2. Green Dot3. Cruelty Free4. PAO

These four marks are governed by strict guidelines and cannot be added to labels unless all the guidelines are followed. If the symbols are used and the products do not comply with the symbol’s guidelines, the products will be mislabeled and be subject to fines, recalls, and/or other actions.

Hopefully I can help you understand the symbols, their meaning, and how to properly use the symbols. Your graphic designer and legal team will thank you for understanding the guidelines.

Estimated Symbol (‘e’ mark)

The most commonly misused symbol is the e mark. The more accurate name of this symbol is the Estimated Symbol. Most people think that this symbol means the product is allowed in Europe. This is not the case. The e mark signifies a voluntary compliance with European filling and packaging standards. You can only use the “e mark” if you do the following:

1. Comply with the average system of weights and measures in the EU Directive 76/211/EEC. The US fill system is based on a minimum fill requirement and not an average fill requirement; therefore, if your product is filled in US, you probably don’t meet the requirements to use the e mark.

2. Product cannot be less than 5g or 5ml and not more than 10 kg or 10 l.

3. Packer must keep track of nominal quantities and records of the checks. Quantities must be within the total negative errors (TNE), the average system, and a lot of other filling and record-keeping standards.

By: D. Scott Taylor

Scott Taylor: [email protected]

Are These Symbols On Your Label?(They Probably Shouldn't Be)

4. The symbol formatting must follow the exact guidelines in the directive.

Unless your packer/filler is purposefully following the E Mark guidelines you probably do not qualify. The misuse of this symbol can result in fines, recalls, bans on sale, etc.

Green Dot

The second symbol is the Green Dot. Just like the Estimated symbol, the Green Dot’s use is voluntary and is specific to the EU. The Green Dot symbol does not take the place of the recycling symbol, i.e. the mobius loop. The Green Dot symbol means that “a financial contribution has been paid to a qualified national packaging recovery organization, set up in accordance with the principles defined in EU Directive 94/32.”

If you have not registered with the Greed Dot folks and paid your dues, you cannot use this symbol. Misuse of

this symbol can have similar consequences to the e mark.

Cruelty Free: Leaping Bunny

The Leaping Bunny is an industry group that has its own regulations. You pay a licensing fee to use the logo, and make an attestation. This mark does not certify cruelty-free in all markets, the bunny just means you follow the Leaping Bunny’s cruelty-free standards.

Cruelty-free means different things in different markets. For example, in Europe animal testing is banned anyway so the leaping bunny is just telling consumers that your product complies with standards (which technically is an unauthorized cosmetic claim). This would be like saying your cosmetic doesn’t contain rotenone.

Misusing this symbol can open you up to litigation from the group and consumers.

PAO (Period After Opening)

Many people think the Period After Opening (PAO) symbol is a replacement for a best before date. While this isn’t that far off, best before dates are still required to be used under certain circumstances. The EU requires the "Best used before end

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4th Quarter 2017 IMWSCC 13

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14 IMWSCC 4th Quarter 2017

Scott TaylorThe Regulatory Department(801) [email protected]

of MM/YYYY" (for products lasting less than 30 months) or the hourglass symbol for products with expiration <30 months with corresponding date.

For products lasting more than 30 months (most products) period after opening (PAO) is required. The symbol must be accompanied by an indication of the period of time in months or years shown as a number, which can be located inside or outside the symbol. In practice, the indication is usually given in months as “x M”.

You will need to have testing to back up the PAO claim. If you don’t, you could have similar repercussions as the misuse of the e mark, or the Green Dot.

Recommendation. I have clients argue that symbols mean what consumers want them to mean. Although I do agree that consumers have certain interpretations of the symbols, consumers’ interpretation of the symbol should not be the basis for using a regulated symbol.

Your company should understand the meanings of the symbols and the risks associated with using each symbol. Whenever we review labels we accompany the symbols with a brief explanation of the symbol and ask the client to make sure proper substantiation is on file before using the symbols. This way clients understand the risks and requirements associated with the use of the symbols.

Scott worked for 3 of the top health and wellness direct selling companies in regulatory and market expansion roles. He is the founder of the international food and cosmetic regulatory consulting firm, The Regulatory Department (TRD).

TRD assists food and cosmetic companies with the rules and regulations involved in selling and manufacturing food and cosmetic products in over 90 countries. His network of regulatory consultants creates compliant labels, registers products, reviews marketing claims, conducts formula compliance reviews, and takes care of all things regulatory for their clients.

Regulatory Department Continued...

Tel: 818.700.0071 • Fax: 818.700.1301 • www.chemteccc.com

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4th Quarter 2017 IMWSCC 15

Silicone specialties for personal care.

Proudly represented by

Local contact: Nathan Reighard

803.743.8989 • [email protected] • www.ethorn.com

Jessica Morgan: [email protected]

By: Jessica Morgan

INCI HighlightSynthetic Fluorphlogopite

Synthetic fluorphlogopite is a lab-created duplicate of natural mica. It can be designed in a variety of particle sizes and offers improved brilliance and purity over its natural counterpart. Synthetic fluorphlogopite offers a much lower lead level than natural mica, making it superior for eye and lip products. It is often chosen for use in color cosmetics because it provides a cleaner backdrop for colorants, allowing the creation of brighter and more vivid shades. In addition to its use as bulking agent in color cosmetics, synthetic fluorphlogopite can be used in a variety of personal care applications to add a unique visual effect. It can be used at low concentrations to add pearl or sparkle to a cleanser or provide a youthful glow and soft, silky feel to the skin in creams and lotions. When used as the base for effect pigments, its naturally whiter color and increased lustre allow for the creation of products with a brilliant visual effect and vibrant color. Some of these products can also be used as replacements for costly sodium borosilicate effect pigments.

InnovationComesNaturally

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16 IMWSCC 4th Quarter 2017

Educational Course & Grand Seminar

IMWSCC 4th Quarter MeetingDec 5 & 6 , 2017

Lehi, Utah

ScheduleTuesday7:30am – Registration, & check-in

8:00am – Breakfast

9:00am – David Yacko: Scale up & Processing Cosmetic Formulations

12:00pm – Lunch

1:00pm – David Yacko Presentation Continued

Wednesday7:30am – Registration, & check-in

8:00am – Breakfast

9:00am – Announcements & quarterly sponsor remarks

9:15am – Dr. Paolo Giacomoni: Ethnic Skin

10:15am – Break

10:30am – Paulette Gramse & Adam Peek: Labeling & Packaging

11:45pm – Lunch

Thanks for your attendance!

1021 Echo Lake Road, Watertown, Connecticut 06795

T: 860.945.3333 E:[email protected] W: kosterkeunen.com

WAXES · ESTERS · EMULSIFIERS NATURAL CHEMISTRIES

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4th Quarter 2017 IMWSCC 17

Presenters for Grand SeminarPaulette Gramse & Adam PeekSymrise

Live Webinar on Ethnic Skin

EThis 90-minute accredited online course will summarize the physiological differences between skins of different ethnici-ties, of which melanin content and composition is but one pa-rameter. Gender-linked differences will also be quickly sum-marized, to allow the attendees to grasp in deeper detail the ethnic differences such as skin sensitivity and susceptibility to skin disorders. This will be done by analyzing the chemical, biochemical and ultra-structural differences observed in dif-ferent ethnicities.

Dr. Paolo Giacomoni is co-founder and Chief Scientific Officer of Élan Rose International, a recently created skin care compa-ny in Tustin, California. He is also an independent consultant to the Skin Care industry.

He served as VP of Skin Care World Wide R&D with Herbal-ife, where he has been responsible for preparing new Skin Care lines, until December 2014. He is a quality-focused leader with over 20 years of experience in product research and develop-ment for cosmetic product providers.

Previously, Dr. Giacomoni was with Estée Lauder as their Ex-ecutive Director of Research. During that time he was in charge of research and communications for Clinique and interacted frequently with beauty editors. He was also in charge of meet-ing with suppliers of raw materials and he understands from both sides, the negotiation process to enter a raw material in a skin care product. He contributed research on cell and sur-face biochemistry for best-selling products such as Youth Surge, Turnaround Concentrate, Anti-Gravity, UV-Response, Super-defense, Even Better, Laser Focus, and Repairwear Night/Day.

During his tenure at L’Oréal as Head of the Department of Biol-ogy and then as scientific attaché to the Director of Applied Re-search, he built a distinguished record of achievement through research on DNA damage and metabolic impairment induced by UV, and on the positive effects of antioxidants. His action lead to testing and integrating new technologies as part of the product development processes of best selling products such as Lancôme’s Rénergie and Primordial. While with L’ Oréal, he was a founder of the European Society for Photobiology and of the European Network for the Study of the Biology of Aging.

Dr. Giacomoni is fluent in French, Italian, German, Spanish and English and is the author of 100+ publications and patents representing breakthrough industry concepts. He received his Ph.D., in Biochemistry from Université Paris VI, Paris France; his Masters Degree in Atomic Physics from Università di Mila-no, Milano, Italy and had Post-Doctoral Training at Deutsches Krebsforschungszentrum, Heidelberg, Germany, at University of Wisconsin, Madison, WI and at University of California, San Diego, CA.

Dr. Paolo GiacomoniÉlan Rose International

Cosmetics labeling and packaging; Current and future state

Topics that will be covered include:

-Not your mom’s PS labels – new innovations in standard PS labels through hybrid print technology

-Digital and flexo tube labeling – new ways to meet multiple language and regulatory demands

-Sampling programs – Sachet printing and Kenra Case study

-RFID and NFC – Using packaging to engage the end user on their mobile devices

Paulette Gramse: My daily focus is to assist clients in the new development of extended text label designs that meet regula-tory and multiple-language demands. My understanding of brand owners’ distribution channels outside of the US inspired my involvement in the creation of several patented multiple ply constructions for bottles, tubes and vials. As a trusted advisor in Flexographic/Digital printing, a client can expect a thorough knowledge base for press capabilities, color matching, and face materials/adhesives while experiencing professional product management services.

Adam Peek: For the past 5 years, I have been privileged to wake up to one of the best and dynamic jobs in the world! I have the opportunity to interact with so many different people from ev-ery walk of life. Almost every department has an influence on a products packaging. From engineering to marketing. Sales to regulatory. Supply chain to accounting. This means, for me and WS, that every problem is uniquely painful to a person and every person has unique problems.

Specialties include: Digital printing, flexo printing, off set print-ing, digital/flexo hybrid printing, pressure sensitive labels, in mold labels, RFID and NFC integration into packaging, extend-ed text labels, design services, color management, folding car-tons, and shrink sleeves.

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18 IMWSCC 4th Quarter 2017

Let us help you with your formulation needs!Integrity Ingredients Corporation ▪ www.integrityingredientscorp.com ▪ [email protected] ▪ (877) 765-0282

IntegriWAX Natural BaseIntroducing our NEW....

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Quality Raw MaterialsExceptional Customer Service

12835 Arroyo St.Sylmar, CA 91342

Phone: 818 - 837 - [email protected]

12835 Arroyo St.Sylmar, CA 91342

Phone: 818 - 837 - [email protected]

www.DeverauxSpecialties.comwww.DeverauxSpecialties.com

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IMWSCC Newsletter 2017 - PRENSA.pdf 1 31/01/2017 10:59:03 a.m.

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4th Quarter 2017 IMWSCC 19

Talks 'n Tees RecapSarah Snow: [email protected]

By: Sarah SnowWe had a huge turn out for our Talks n’ Tees Golf Event! The weather was great and the scenery was beautiful up at the Wasatch State Golf Course. Our attendance for this event was the highest it has ever been! We would again like to thank all the sponsors of this event and every who contributed time and prizes.

We enjoyed two talks one by Susan Pungitore about challenge testing and the other by Nickolas Huss about emulsion systems. Both talks were more than able to keep our attention away from the beautiful view from the top of the Natural History Museum, which is quite a feat.

From product development to launch, our technical and marketing experts are here to help you meet the demands of consumers worldwide.

www.charkit.com | 203-299-3220

High Performance Ingredients for Skin and Hair CareSmooth, mild, natural and stable

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20 IMWSCC 4th Quarter 2017

IMWSCC would like to thank our Fourth Quarter

Meeting Sponsors:

ChemyunionLipoid

Koster & Keunen