Instruction Manual - ArenaBGfree.arenabg.com/ipb/JK/Jeep/Wrangler/JK/Jeep Wrangler JK Ripp S… · Jeep Wrangler JK Automatic and Manual ... RIPP Supercharger JEEP Wrangler 3.8

Performance Spoken Fluently

Instruction Manual

3.8Liter V6 Supercharger Drive System

Jeep Wrangler JK Automatic and Manual Transmission

INSTALLER: Read and understand entire instruction manual before starting installation of system.

RIPP Supercharger JEEP Wrangler 3.8

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Introduction: Congratulations on your investment into the RIPP Modifications Supercharger Drive System (SDS) designed for the 2007-09 JEEP Wrangler equipped with the 3.8L V6 engine. With proper installation, use and maintenance you will enjoy many happy trouble-free miles. The following instructions will include steps for both six speed manual and automatic Jeeps. RIPP Supercharger Systems are a simple but effective way of increase your engine’s total output, without compromising its integrity. Intended for off road use only, but designed to be daily driven, its superior ingenuity is what makes it all worth it. These instructions are a necessary guide to the proper installation and maintenance of your RIPP Supercharger system. The SDS is intended to be installed by a professional technician and should not be attempted by the hobbyist. We feel its best to source out a local performance oriented shop before attempting to install your system. Without proper knowledge of fuel and ignition mapping, permanent damage can and will occur. Whenever adding more power to any vehicle, the steering, braking and handling of the vehicle will differ from standard passenger vehicle’s and trucks. Avoid unnecessary abrupt maneuvers, sudden stops, or over sharp turns. If larger tires are installed your speedometer will read lower than the vehicles actual speed, we highly recommend a speedometer calibrator.

RIPP ONLY ENDORSES HYPERTECH SPEEDO CALIBRATORS

DRIVE WITH CARE, REDUCE SPEED AND WEAR SEAT BELTS AT ALL TIMES.




Index

Step Page Motion 1 1 Battery Removal 2 2 Remove Air Box 3 3 Spark Plug Installation 4 3 Coolant Hoses 5 5 Battery Relocation Kit 6 6 Extend Battery Wires 7 7 Relocate EVAP Valve 8 8 Relocate Intake Air Sensor 9 9 Install PCV Valve 10 10 Install SDS Bracket 11 11 Install Fuel System 12 12 Install Supercharger and Position

13 14 Install Piping and Blow Off Valve 14 15 Black Box installation 15 22 Wrapping it up 16 22 Starting the Car for the First 17 23 Driving Expectations 26 Adjustments (Blow Off Valve/Methanol) 27 Maintenance 33 Optional Parts

Diagrams 13 Belt Diagram

18 Black Box Wiring Diagram 20 Vacuum Line Reference 21 Vacuum Line Diagram

Optional Equipment Instructions 19 Octane Switch 26 Adjustments (Blow Off Valve/Methanol)

28 Methanol Injection

RIPP Supercharger kits feature products from these manufactures; we also recommend using them for routine service there after.

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The following is a list of tools recommended by RIPP Modifications for proper installation of your.

Air or electric impact tools

Air saw or metal saw

Cutting Pliers

Soldering iron and solder

Basic mechanics tools (Metric tools will be required)

Electric or air drill

Teflon paste or tape

Lock tight

Recommendations:

It is essential to start with a cold vehicle.

Secure any radio or alarm codes before hand.

Disconnect any large audio systems until AFTER fuel/ignition computers have calibrated.

Confirm the end user’s oil grade and type (synthetic or conventional) and change oil and filter at this time. We

recommend Castrol GTX and a premium oil filter.

New oil filter

Spark plugs should be changed to brand plugs, one heat range colder than stock and gapped to .030-.032” (some kits come supplied with proper plugs, however they are not gapped see instructions for gapping).


Step: 1 Disconnect and remove battery from vehicle.



The Battery tray will need to be modified in order to make room for the supercharger to do so you will need to:

Remove air filter canister and piping from vehicle

Remove battery from vehicle

Fully remove the clips holing the harness to the firewall as shown in illustration

Relocate the EVAP valve and harness towards the fender wall (later steps show mounting)

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Step 2: Cutting Plastics



Using an air saw or hand saw with an open blade cut out the plastic battery tray as shown below, exposing the passenger side of the engine.

Note third figure; there is a grounding strap running along side the battery box and fire wall, its easy to cut. Move it before cutting

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Step 3: Install Spark plugs



This kit comes with NGK Iridium Spark Plugs (Part Number LZTR6AIX-13) in a one step colder configuration they will need to be gapped.

Remove old spark plugs (clean area of dirt and grim before removal)

Gap new plugs to .032” with spark plug gapping tool

Apply anti-seize to new spark plugs

Reinstall new plugs

Note: Inspect spark plug well, if there is excessive dirt or sand clean before removing spark plugs

Step 4: Fluids and hoses Draining the coolant is needed in removing and modifying the upper heater hose.

Drain coolant via coolant drain plug located in the lower side of radiator Note one gallon should do.

Heater hose modifications Upper heater hose will need to be cut approximately three inches (3”)

from the tip.

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You can then reinstall and route the hose as imaged

Remove the hose holder to make room for later steps

The lower hose circled in the above image will get zip tied to the lower part of the

battery tray. Drill a few holes in the lower battery tray that was previously cut, fit 1¼” wire

loom over hose to clear the exhaust manifold. In the event that you are running an

after market exhaust header wrapping the header and the hose may be necessary. Note: There is a small flap with an orange or white sticker on some passenger side valve cover. If it interferes it will require trimming, this can be done now or when installing the supercharger in Step-12

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Step: (5) Installing Battery Relocation kit Located on the passenger side of the engine compartment behind the headlight

is the plastic base to the OEM air filter box. This will need to be removed and replaced with the supplied battery tray.

Remove 10mm bolts as shown in first illustration.

Two cuts will need to be made 1) the first will be going from the fender towards the

engine. 2) The second cut will go from the front of the bracket towards the back of your Jeep. CARE NEEDS TO BE EXERCISED DURING THE SECOND CUT-PERMANENT DAMAGE CAN AND WILL OCCURE TO A MAIN WIRE HARNESS.

Located along the inner chassis are two main engine harnesses, if these are damaged

during the cutting process permanent damage can and will occur.

Space back the bracket to make room for the cutting blade and cut slowly

*Harness will interfere: make room by back spacing as per last illustration*

Utilizing the factory 10mm mounting holes install the supplied battery tray as

shown in last two illustrations, tighten. 5



Step: (6) Extending the Battery terminals

DO NOT CUT GREEN WIRE-IT IS A FUSIABLE LINK Now that you’ve relocated the battery you will need to extend the factory

terminals. This is a very straight forward task.

Cut factory terminals as per first illustration

Strip back approximately a quarter inch of wire insulation exposing copper wire

Crimp and Solder supplied wires for best results use multiple layers of heat

shrink tubing and use a good quality black electrical tape as an extra precaution.

Route in-between fuse box and chassis

Be sure to hook up positive and negative correctly.

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Step: (7) Relocate EVAP Valve (Attention Critical Step) This step requires you to cut the original hard plastic lines that routed to and from

the recirculation valve. Then extend and move it closer to the passenger side

fender to make room for the supercharger installation in the following steps.

Follow the upper and lower lines coming to and from the EVAP valve. This valve

was originally removed and placed aside in step 1.

Use the two 5/16” X 20” rubber lines outlined in green and yellow, these two lines are the “in and out” and attention is needed for proper relocation. Please mark the upper and lower hoses being careful not to mix them up.

After cutting the hoses and securing the proper routing, mount the supplied metal

bracket as images above. The valve will be flipped upside down as imaged.

Next route the supplied 5/16” X 20” rubber lines as imaged.

After installing the supplied lines route as follows to make maximum clearance for air

filter assembly. The upper (Green line will be your vacuum and boost line for all your accessories installed in later steps).

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Step: (8) Air Temp Sensor Relocation (ATS)

Relocating the ATS to the drivers side fender

Remove OEM ATS from the rubber intake tube

Using supplied extension wire properly solder and heat shrink corresponding

colored wires to assure a water tight connection. Do Not Mix Them Up.

Using supplied wire loom route extended wire along AC line towards

driver’s side fender and head light.

Locate slot cut in supplied air filter sponge and tuck neatly over sensor.

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Locate the space between the headlight and inner fender line In

front of window washing reservoir. Tuck away sensor.

Step (9): Installing 30psi PCV Valve (Attention Critical Step)

Install the supplied PCV Valve with the smaller "valved" end facing the

intake manifold.

Simply unclamp the crank case hose located behind the throttle body and slip in place.

For an install - use oil or grease to lube the valve and push in with an appropriately sized socket (8-13mm usually works).

Push the valve up to the first turn and reinstall clamp. You can choose to leave the spring clamp or replace it with a conventional worm clamp.

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STEP (10): Installing Supercharger bracket Installing the supercharger bracket requires you to remove the factory water pump

pulley

To do so use a half inch ratchet and insert it into the tensioner adjustment slot

Pull up with the ratchet to create more tension

Using a 13mm box wrench loosen bolts on water pump pulley

Next press down on the tensioner and remove the factory belt and set aside.

Using supplied hardware install front side of bracket as imaged

Once all hardware is started by hand tighten down evenly until all hardware is

bottomed and then finish tightening to factory specs.

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Step (11) installing fuel system: (Attention Critical Step)

Locate the factory fuel lines located on the passenger side of the engine between the valve cover and intake manifold.

There is a small 7 inch section that is hard plastic.

Split the line with a razor as shown in the first image exposing the metal line.

Install supplied Tee fitting with supplied 5/16” x 16” fuel lines and clamps as pictured.

In later steps the open Tee will be finally hooked up to the main injectors

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Step (12): Dropping in the blower Locate dowel pin and dowel pin hole on bottom of shaft, use this to align

the shaft into place. The Dowel pin hole is oval for belt adjustment in later steps.

Drop in blower and shaft into bracket and lightly tighten via the four 4mm (5/32”) Allen-head screws.

Route oil drain line away from header and zipper-tie along power steering line on frame rail.

Locate the oil drain line affixed to blower. Note: the oil drain fittings are

preinstalled and tightened – DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN THEY WILL BREAK.

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Notes:____________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ 13



Step (13): Piping-

For a neater look face all the clamps the same way and install with clean hands

Install 3.5” 90deg coupler on blower insert 3.5” pipe and install air filter

Replace fuse M28 (10amp) with supplied 20amp fuse

Install pipe with Blow off valve (BOV) on it

Install 45deg coupler

Install fueler pipe

Adjustment to the BOV can be made before installation, turning the hex-head clock wise until 3-4 threads are showing(BOV Adjustment Pg. 36)

Blow Off Valve (BOV) pipe should sit flush with fuse box

Fueler pipe should sit on an angle towards throttle body to avoid contact with hood when closed

Run fuel line from previously installed Teed connection to fuel rail and tighten

The pipe with the fueling sits at a slight angle, the fueler should be straight vertically - tighten clamps

Run the 5/32” x 8” vacuum line to the open nipple teeing in from the 5/16TH

20” hose running from the intake manifold to the EVAP, this line is outlined in green in an earlier step and in the vacuum diagram on page .

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Step (14): Black Box – Fuel and Timing Controller Black box mounts on drivers side inner foot well as shown with the small square

supplied Velcro

Automatic transmission vehicles (yellow image) can utilize a pre-existing hole in the

firewall intended for the clutch slave cylinder.

6 Speed vehicles (red vehicle) have two options 1) Drill a hole in the firewall and mount as shown below or 2) option to leave the Black Box under the hood. The later is less advisable because proper precautions will need to be followed to do so. For example using silicon to seal the back end of the Black Box harness and/or installing it in a

rubber condom or balloon to protect it from moisture.

Locate ECU on Drivers side engine compartment

Unplug the four large black ECU plugs and remove covers to expose wires

NOTE Clips do break (its ok) pry gently to open and expose wires

Solder - Heat shrink - and Tape -ALL connections

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DO-NOT USE QUICK CONNECTS ON ANY WIRE IN THIS TRUCK PERIOD!

Properly solder all connection Be sure to seal plug with sensor safe

silicone if mounted under hood.

Some wires are pass-through and others are cut through pay attention to the

cut through wires. When you cut a wire there are two sides, the ECU side denotes half leading to the ECU. The Engine side is the wire leading to

the engine. (Attention Critical Step)

Some wires are “T’d” connections pay close attention to these wires

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There are several like colored wires pay attention to match the correct numbered pin

with the correct wire. (Attention Critical Step)

In this example you can see there are several Brown wires with a teal stripe, pay close

attention to these connections.

Replace fuse M28 (10amp) Map Sensor pointing down to avoid

with supplied 20amp fuse water damage. (Attention Critical Step)

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Note: If your system came with this style MAP

sensor, it should not be mounted under the hood. The Harness will have a mating plug closer to the Black Box.

This will be mounted where the Black

Box is mounted with double sides tape.



RIPP Modifications Black Box Wiring Diagram For

Vehicle Year 2007/09 Make Jeep Model Wrangler (JK)

Engine: 3.8l V6 Transmission: Auto/6 speed

Black Box JJ

ECU PLUG PIN

Black-(Ground) Black with a Green Stripe C1 18

Red 12v-(Power) Red C1 10 Brown – Defection (TPS) Brown with a White Stripe C3 25 Violet –MAP Output (ECU Side) Violet with a Brown Stripe (ECU Side) C2 23

Blue –MAP Input (Engine Side) Violet with a Brown Stripe (Engine Side) C2 23 White- Ignition Output (ECU Side) Brown with a Light Blue Stripe (ECU Side) C2 35

Yellow- Ignition Input (Engine Side) Brown with a Light Blue Stripe (Engine Side) C2 35 Brown with a Black Stripe O2 (Input) Dark Blue with a Light Blue Stripe (O2 Sensor) C2 31

WHITE 3 WIRE PLUG FOR PC LINK SOFTWARE AND CABLE NEEDED

WHITE 3 WIRE PLUG FOR PC LINK SOFTWARE AND CABLE NEEDED

*Option: Grey High Octane Fuel Map *Ground (This can be hooked up to a switch to switch between low and high octane fuel maps)

*Ground

White with a blue stripe Not used Not used White with a Red Stripe Not used Not used Pink Not used Not used

Blue with a Black Stripe Not used Not used Orange Currently not used Currently not used

*Your RIPP Supercharger System comes pre-programmed with a low octane fuel (87-89) and timing map. By grounding the *Grey wire it automatically switches to the higher octane map (91 or higher) for added power and safety. You have the option of hooking up a switch and switching between the two maps. Maps can only be switched with the key in the off position. Switching while the ECU is on will trigger lights

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Optional: Hooking up the Switchable Octane Mapping:

Your RIPP Black Box comes preprogrammed with the lower octane mapping as standard. This is not the most powerful of maps but rather more conservative. Although 87 octane can be used, we suggest using 89 as a minimum or low octane. Maps can only be switched with the key in the off position. Switching while the ECU is on will trigger lights

6spd: Located on the drivers side of the fire wall there is a small rubber grommet

under the main wiring harness. Poke a hole in the grommet and run the gray wire through it. From inside looking up you can feed the wire and it will come down into the driver’s foot well. Feed the wire tight to the driver’s side over the electronic components. Remove the dash cover that faces the driver’s door and feed the wire up to this location.

Please note: If your engine compartment is subjected to excessive water, ice or mud, we would recommend installing all electronics in the passenger compartment following the automatic transmission guidelines: (Attention Critical Step)

Black Box

Methanol injection controller

Map Sensor 19



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Step 15: Wrapping it up

RIPP recommends using quality products to service your engine.

Your last few steps will be Check List (Attention Critical Step) Going over all your bolts, clamps, hoses, tie wraps, and fluids twice (Don’t skip this step).

Refill your oil with fresh oil filter

Make sure you followed the oil breather instructions for self contained blowers

Check oil level in self contained units before starting the vehicle

Refill your coolant (as per the factory guide lines)

Make sure all wire connections are solid and no wires are exposed

Go over vacuum diagram making sure your sending vacuum and boost properly

Make sure ECU is properly plugged in all the way

Make sure all hoses are tight

Make sure all ignition wires are tight and clicked in

Step 16: Starting the vehicle and dialing it in for the first time: Once you are ready to start the vehicle there are a few things that need dialing in. FROM THE FIRST TIME YOU START IT UP AND FROM HERE ON OUT YOU WILL DO THE FOLLOWING:

Turn the key onto the on position

Wait two seconds for the ECU and Black Box to calibrate

Start the vehicle and bring to idle.

From time to time the ECU and your Black Box will Syncro-Start, whereas the engine will crank five times, this is normal and an excellent feature keeping the two electronics 100% connected.

If the belt is squeaking there is an adjustment to be made, in Step 16 we pointed out

the oblong dowel hole, this hole is for belt alignment. Simply loosen the four 4mm (5/32”) Allen-head screws. Then by either using a straight edge or a “good eye”, adjust the belt by tapping the shaft forward or back a few mm’s so that it rides straight on the supercharger pulley in relation to the accessory pulleys. In some cases the belt will squeak for a short period of time until the pulleys and belt are seated in.

It is normal for the supercharger to have a higher pitched chattering sound, this is the sound of the gears making face - over the first 500 miles it will progressively get quieter.

Note: It is strongly recommended that you have a set of aftermarket gauges installed for

proper dial in. RIPP recommends Boost/vacuum gauge, Air/fuel ratio, and/or an Oil pressure gauge. Check for leaks

Fuel leaks

Oil leak feed (if so optioned)

Oil Leak return (if so optioned)

Blow off valve surge setting (to adjust turn clock wise until 3-5 threads are showing)

Vacuum leaks

No misfires (running on five or not starting at all)

No immediate engine lights (Attention Critical Step)

If anything is lose shut it down and repair.

If everything seems in order, let it run for 30-60 seconds, then shut down and let the vehicle sit for a minute. Recheck the oil level on the dipstick. (CHECK the entire oil feed and return system for oil leaks-if so optioned).

CAUTION!!! Make sure there are no fuel leaks upon initial start up. Proper inspection of all fuel

connection must be assessed before starting the vehicle. If there are fuel leaks, shut the vehicle down and repair.

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Step 16: Driving your JK ALL New owners must read this section in its entirety to fully understand and make the most use of your RIPP Supercharged Jeep. Note: The SDS is designed to run even if the blower or any part of the system should fail, always keep the factory serpentine and a 3/8th’s ratchet wrench in the truck. From time to time the ECU and our Black Box will Syncro-Start, whereas the engine will crank five times without starting. This is normal and an excellent feature keeping the two electronics 100% connected.

Automatic Driving your automatic Jeep with a RIPP Supercharger installed is going to be very different experience from stock. As you know in stock form your Jeep’s power is adequate at best, but adding our supercharger will maximize its power and efficiency. The automatic is the most tedious to tune however the combination of stock gears and tires will work seamlessly if you thoroughly understand how they calibrate themselves and how we adjust them. The engineers at Jeep equipped your vehicle with a very smart drive-train fail-safe system called Torque Request Calculation and Load Bearing Calibration, you’ll learn to love and hate this feature. This feature allows the ECU to specifically keep close watch to the power being transmitted to the drive train. In the event the drive-train is “calculated” to be “over powered” the ECU’s factory calibrated sensory (which is a combination of RPM, wheel-speed, throttle position, gear selection and traction control) called the Torque Request alarm will be triggered. When the throttle is floored or at 100% deflection the Torque Request Denied alarm shows itself as a combination of abrupt pause in acceleration and as a dash light blinking. The light is a red lightning bolt with two lines left and right, combined with the check engine light and bells. Once the Torque Request Denied signal has been triggered its best to bring the vehicle to a stop and shut the key off, turn the key on – wait two seconds and start it back up, everything will be brought back to100% operational standards again and you can continue on. There is no direct relation to what you’re doing or asking your engine to do when the TRD alarm is triggered, it’s a calculated safety feature and in some circumstances will trigger unexpectedly and can be alarming when it does. We recommend you be on alert for it when you first start driving your newly installed kit, it’s likely to trigger at least once early on. However through a combination of driving technique and tuning we have lulled it down to occasionally. However it is less likely to be triggered if you follow the guidelines listed here. To maximize fuel mileage, try to use engine speeds between 2000 and 3000 RPM, likewise for maximum power use 3000 to 5000. In most cases turning the Over Drive off in the city will yield better fuel economy and more engine response, we’ve found using the Over Drive on the highway will work best with engine speeds of 1900-2200. For absolute maximum power a combination of full throttle and partial throttle lift will need to be mastered. The ECU will always go into a fail safe mode when floored and the TRD is always on watch for over powering the drive train; with the throttle slightly lifted our electronics do a more thorough job of “steering or redirecting “the ECU’s fail safes. This doesn’t mean we are shutting the fail safe-system off, it merely means we are



calibrating it to the new circumstances, with partial throttle lift the fail safe is less sensitive to the added power. The OEM ECU makes most of its calculations based on MAP sensor readings, its imperative you understand that slightly “back-pedaling” the throttle will produce a better driving experience. You as owners - like anything else- should become familiar with this and explain it to anyone who might also drive the vehicle- simply flooring it does not produce the power gains and in fact puts the ECU in a state of “control”. A second notable “user controlled throttle related condition” has to do with the supercharger itself; when driving on the high way it’s important to hear the Bypass Valve (BOV) bleeding excess air out into the atmosphere, this keeps the blower safe from compressor surge or dead heading the impellers and helps the ECU see the much needed vacuum readings at the factory MAP sensor. Slightly lifting off the throttle at highway speed will produce smoother shifting, better fuel economy and faster throttle response. In the event you should encounter hung up shift points simply roll off the throttle slowly until the shift is made (always keeping safe driving conditions around you in mind) allowing the MAP sensor to see vacuum and the shift will come in.

Automatic with plus size tires and stock gears We strongly recommend using a tire size calibrator to correct the transmission ECU.

Those of you running plus size tires and stock gearing may encounter a surge in acceleration while using cruise control, this is not a product of the ECU or our calibrations, it’s a product of the TRD not matching the vehicle wheel speed with the engine RPM, hitting cancel and resume will reset the cruise feature and stop the surge. Over time the adaptive will massage some of this to a minimum. Don’t be afraid to use your automatic transmission; You may need to use more of the throttle and subsequently the RPM band to find your power. In our lengthy proto-type process we’ve found a better driving experience with a combination of manually shifting our transmission to match engine speed rather than leaving it in Drive alone. This is mostly due to the EPA and the OEM engineers tuning for low emissions, the transmission is always looking to lock the converter up and keep RPM low and as most end users know there is no power in lower RPM of the 3.8.

Automatic with plus size tires and up sized gears We strongly recommend using a tire size calibrator to correct the transmission ECU.

For the most part with plus sized tires and over-sized gears yields the best driving experience follow the Automatic with stock gears and tires guide lines. This combination yields great gas mileage and power. The engineers at Jeep equipped your vehicle with a very smart fail safe called Torque Request Calibration and Load Baring Calibration. This is best explained above in the first few paragraphs. It’s the ECU specifically keeping close watch to the drive train power. When the throttle is floored or at 100% deflection the Torque Request feature is most present, it shows itself as an abrupt pause in acceleration and as a dash light blinking. The light is a red lightning bolt with two lights left and right, combined with the check engine light. Once the Torque Request Denied signal has been triggered its best to bring the vehicle to a stop and shut the key off, turn the key on – wait two seconds and start it back up, everything will be brought back to100% operational standards again



and you can continue on. This is less likely to be triggered if you follow the guidelines listed here. When driving off road you’ll find that the power is found between 2500 3500 rpm, its extremely easy to modulate and very predictable. Like anything else it will require driving and becoming familiar with it.

6 Speed manual regardless of tire and gear combination. Driving your 6speed manual transmission Jeep is already great with the exception of the power, with a RIPP Supercharger is going to be that much better. This is the easiest and least resistant to the added power, in actuality your driving experience will be heightened with little resistance from the ECU. You may experience the Torque Request Denied fail-safe from time to time if ever, if so follow the guide lines listed below to reset it. This is the ECU specifically keeping close watch to the drive train power. When the throttle is floored or at 100% deflection the Torque Request feature is most present, it shows itself as an abrupt pause in acceleration and as a dash light blinking. The light is a red lightning bolt with two lights left and right, combined with the check engine light. Once the Torque Request Denied signal has been triggered its best to bring the vehicle to a stop and shut the key off, turn the key on – wait two seconds and start it back up, everything will be brought back to100% operational standards again and you can continue on. This is less likely to be triggered if you follow the guidelines listed here. Take time to read the Automatic portion of this section to better understand the factory electronics and our calibrations.



Maintenance The RIPP Supercharger systems require minimal maintenance, beyond normal vehicles regularly scheduled maintenance. Use guidelines listed below and you will receive many years and miles of enjoyment from your system.

Normal Maintenance Guidelines Supercharger Lubrication Oil maintenance:

1. The self contained Vortech Supercharger comes with 3 bottles of spare oil. The first bottle is to be used after 500 -1000 miles of driving. The second bottle and from that point on oil should be changed every 8000-10000(Maximum) miles depending on the level of abuse. Add ¼ bottle more to blower for off road use, based the angles Jeeps sometimes find themselves in. Running the blower dry would damage the blower beyond repair and will not be covered under warranty. This will keep the charger

sounding new and in tune. When cold, remove the oil inlet fitting at the supercharger and the oil drain plug located at the end on the stainless steel braded line and drain. DO NOT OVER-TIGHTEN FITTINGS. Use only Vortech lubricant – If your using a V2 oil feed blower do not use engine oil additives as they may contain solid partials, which can clog the superchargers oil-feed line.

2. For V3 Self contained blowers there is an oil case vent installed, it’s important to keep that clean. If it is not clean the blower will build too much pressure in the oil case. Vortech designed the V3 to purge pressure via sprung seal behind the impeller. In some cases it’s normal to see some minimal oil traces there. Make sure you check your oil level frequently to assure proper compressor operation.

Rock Climbing & Extreme Conditions a. If you frequently pitch your jeep at extreme angles it’s recommended to run

one or two more ounces of oil to make up the difference. b. If you operate your vehicle is extreme cold weather follow the heavy

duty/severe usage maintenance schedule in your vehicles owners’ manual. Use the manufactures engine oil and filter recommendations. We strongly recommend oil changes from 3000 to 5000 miles to maintain integrity.

c. If you frequently submerge your vehicle in water, inspect all idlers including

OEM units to keep belt alignment straight. Ignition

1. Spark plug/ignition system guidelines should be tuned up regularly. The entire ignition system should be checked bi-annually and fresh plugs installed during the first install. We recommend installing NGK Brand TYPE R Copper or Iridium core plugs in a one step colder range. These should be changed once every two years and checked more frequently in race conditions.

2. Every 15000 miles, check to ensure the spark plug wires are within factory specified resistance. Replace whenever beyond specification or every 30,000 miles or which ever comes first.

Fuel 1. The use of an injector cleaner can be used yearly to help keep older injection system

efficient. 2. Under race-only conditions high octane/race gas (100octane or above) can be used, but

only a small amount should be used. In a quarter tank, condition (3.5 gallons) use only one gallon of race gas. More will burn up oxygen sensor and catalytic converters.

Mechanical 1. Inspect serpentine belt on every service interval for wear and aging, and replace if

there is any sign of premature wear. If there is, abnormal wear that is reoccurring, there may be an alignment issue. Inspect pulley alignment or have a professional assess the problem.

2. Under boosted condition and with increased under hood temperatures, its normal for clamps to come loose. Inspect all clamps regularly.

3. The high flow air filter that is supplied with your kit can be cleaned with a mild detergent, or the use of an air filter cleaning and oiling kit.

4. Biannually check O2 resistance as per the technical guide in the trouble-shooting guide. 26



Trouble Shooting Guide: This is a reference guide to help you tech any issues you may encounter during or after the installation. The following are the most common teched and resolved. No start (Includes long crank-no start):

Make sure the ECU plugs are pushed in all the way, it’s an easy thing to over look and the simplest solution.

Make sure black box is plugged in

Check fuses; if there is a no start situation it could be a blown fuse. If a fuse is blown it

could have happened during installation and went unnoticed. If it blows again there is a direct short somewhere, trace your steps. The red power wire would be a good place to start.

Check wiring; there are two cut through wires, the crank sensor and the map sensor. These signals are filtered through our electronics for tuning purposes. It’s very easy to confuse these two wires or pick the wrong wire to hook up to. If there is a no start situation it’s most likely the crank wire mixed up.

Running rough and Check Engine lights:

Make sure the air temp sensor wires are hooked up correctly.

Double check correct wires in corresponding pin locations, this is the most common mistake and most likely the issue.

Make sure Vacuum lines are hooked up correctly to MAP sensor. The MAP sensor needs

to see vacuum and boost to work correctly.

Make sure all vacuums are sound

Make sure PCV valve is correctly installed, if backwards you will pump boost directly

into the crank case. This will blow every seal out, examples being valve cover gasket.

Make sure your spark plug wires are snug

Do not use ANY other electronic power mapping such as the high octane setting in a Hypertech Max Energy Programmer. This will conflict with the Black Box mapping and cause run faults.

Tire size calibration: Use only Hypertech Products to calibrate tire size. RIPP does not endorse any other brand. This step is essential, just because your tire advertises to be XX size doesn’t mean the tire is actually that size. Please follow the tire size calculator instructions supplied with your speedometer calibrator. Many tires that claim to be 35” high will in actuality be 33.5 by way of equation. Please make sure this step is properly administered. Run faults will occur. Running Lean:

Check supplemental Injectors are triggering. The use of a noid-light would be best. Under no circumstances should you ever hook up an LED or other type of light to the injector wires or plugs. This will be interpreted as a short as blow the injector triggers in the Black Box.

Make sure you have proper vacuum and boost going to supplied MAP sensor.

Too much Methanol spraying

Methanol mix ratio is off

No Power:

Make sure you are not flooding the engine with methanol, make sure you have proper vacuum and boost going to the supplied MAP sensor

Excessive detonation:

Make sure you are triggering the supplemental injectors; make sure you wired your

Black Box up correctly. 27



Optional Equipment Installing Procedures 1) Methanol Injection:

If you optioned for the RIPP Boost Cooler you have chosen to chemically intercool your supercharged engine. The installation of the boost cooler if very straight forward, if you ordered it at the same time as the supercharger then RIPP technicians preinstalled the injector bung, pump and fittings. Installation is broken down in 3-parts.

1. Feed hose and Reservoir (Feed) 2. Pump/Nozzle - (mechanical) 3. AEM Digital Controller Pressure Switch - (electrical) 4. Care

Contents

1 - Pump

1 - Nozzle

1 - Tubing 1/4" x 30” Long

1 Hose 7/32” x 62” Long

2 - (2) Fittings pump in/out ( NPT - 1/4" O.D.,

elbow adapter)

4 - Tie wraps

Miscellaneous hardware for mounting

4 - 10mm Nut and bolts

Required tools

- Adjustable wrench

- Utility knife

- Teflon Paste

- Screw driver - Phillips

- Solder

- Electrical tape/heat shrink tubing

- 10mm Wrench

I – Mechanical

- It is recommended that the pump not be mounted on fire wall for passenger

compartment noise considerations.

- Install nozzle into nozzle holder using pipe sealant in paste form.



Note Pump Mounting

- Nozzle sizing is a function of flywheel horsepower (FWHP), which approximates engines airflow, and boost, which approximates intake charge heat. RIPP has preselected the nozzle size for your application.

Jeep JK Under Battery Tray Bracket Provided

Mitsu 3G Under Driver Side Headlight using supplied bracket

Mitsu 4G Under Driver Side Headlight using supplied bracket

SRT-4 Under Driver Side Headlight using supplied bracket

Instructions

- Please refer to mechanical diagram.

- Mount pump so pump is positioned lower than bottom the window washer reservoir tank. Pump gets mounted horizontally under the supplied battery relocation bracket using (4) supplied screws, with the mechanical end pointing towards the firewall.

Step 1: Reservoir Connections 1. Locate window washing reservoir located on driver’s side of engine bay and drain. 2. Drain system one or two ways, gravity siphon (imaged) or by disconnecting the

window washer hose from sprayer Run hose into a clean separate container Providing you can, turn ignition to on/accessory position and run the window washers as normal pumping it out into container. The washer will only cycle for about 10-15seconds at a time so you will need to do this several times.

3. Once the reservoir is empty remove the yellow cap from the reviver, using a 19/32” drill bit, drill a hole in-between the L and U on the cap.

4. One drilled clean filings and push supplied 90* plastic fitting into cap as imaged 5. Run top of fitting to feed on pump fill system with Preston De-Icer 32 Below

DO NOT MIX YOUR OWN METHANOL WITHOUT FIRST CONSULTING WITH Ripp Modifications

or a seasoned RIPP installer. 28



Step 2: Mounting Pump 1. Located on the passenger side of the engine is the relocated battery and

tray. 2. Pull back inner fender well and locate battery relocation bracket. 3. Preinstalled under the tray are two tabs where the Boost Cooler Pump

mounts. Locate these tabs and mount the pump using supplied hardware.

4. Run provided 62” long x 7/32” from installed Tee to the input of the pump

Note: Make 100% sure that the nylon tube is 100% round and has no jagged edges or frayed ends. You will experience leaks if not perfect, use a sharp razor blade or utility knife and slowly roll the tube to a clean cut.

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Step 3: Digital Controller 1. The AEM Boost Cooler Controller is a Digitally Proportionate controller, it will

proportionally pulse the Methanol as boost rises. 2. There are three wires on the controller they are:

a. Red 12V Constant b. Black Ground c. Orange Trigger to Black on pump d. Yellow 12V Switched M15 e. Gray LED

3. The Nipple gets hooked up to a Vacuum Boost source which can be Tee’d from the Blow-Off Valve line.

Important: Make sure when installing the nylon tube into the pumps 90 degree fitting, that the nylon tube is cut perfect and with no jagged edges. DO NOT APPLY EXCESSIVE FORCE when pushing into locking fitting. It should just click in, if to much force is applied it will snap….

Testing the system: The AEM Boost Cooler Controller has a built in test mode.

Note: To avoid flooding the engine, remove hose from injector nozzle and place in bucket or bottle to catch fluid during testing.

Press Test button for five seconds

Controller will activate pump for testing purposes.

Inspect lines and fittings for secure connection and repair if needed. 30



Adjustments: Boost Cooler Adjustments: The Boost Cooler is a chemical intercooler, by pressurizing a Methanol/Water mix it becomes a combustible. This combustible reacts with the boosted heated air created by the supercharger, it directly cools the air charge, increases air density and raise the octane rating by about two points. The system is comprised of three major components;

1. The nozzle 2. The pump 3. The controller

The nozzle is constructed of 3031 stainless steel, includes a filtering system and is already calculated to fit the needs of your supercharged engine. The pump is rated up to 150psi of pressure and a safety release valve and is preset from the factory to deliver the needed fluids. Lastly the heart of the system is the state of the art controller which proportionately raises the pump speed as boost increases. On the controller you’ll see two setting 1) “Start” and 2) “Full”. These setting represent the actual turn on times of the pump. For example if you where to set the system at 2psi and 5psi you’ll find the pump will trigger as early as 2psi with light pulsations and when 5psi is reached the pump will pulsate harder. The controller will automatically bridge the two settings proportionately to avoid flooding the engine or over injecting the system. During the learn period (100 to 1000) miles the factory ECU is adapting to the new found power, essentially getting better acquainted with the boost and fuel as miles are accumulated. You may have to adjust the Boost Cooler to meet your driving needs, for example under city driving conditions you’ll encounter stop and go traffic, which means the blower will likely see low boost levels more often, in which case a lower Start setting is recommended, its normal to need cooling as low as 2psi and spreading the Full to as much as 9psi or anywhere in between. If audible detonation is detected try to determine the RPM and Boost level in which you’re hearing the detonation and dial in the cooler to those determined RPM/Boost levels. Conversely if you do more highway driving its less likely you’ll need the cooler so early and an setting of 4 and 9 might work better for you, the only variables being altitude and octane or if audible detonation is present – then the city setting may work better, this is truly a end user setting. Spraying too much fluid or using pure methanol will result in a poor running vehicle. The methanol will cool the factory sensory off too much and lean out the primary injection. Please feel free to contact our staff for further information. Use only Preston De-Icer as the main cooling agent, the nozzle is serviceable, simply pull back on the press fit tab and pull out the hard line, unscrew the nozzle for the fueler block, then unscrew the tip from the main housing, you’ll find a screen, simply clean it using mild detergent and reassemble. Replacement parts are available from your local retailer or directly from RIPP.

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Blow Off Valve Adjustment: The Blow Off Valve (BOV) is set to a neutral setting from the factory, its primary function is to bleed excess boost into the atmosphere to avoid compressor surge or (dead heading) the supercharger. Its secondary function is making throttle roll-off smoother, as you accelerate through the RPM band and boost curve you naturally roll off the throttle. By doing this you create vacuum which in turn opens the BOV and bleeds the boost away. Too soft a setting will give you a jumpy or rubber-bandy type of acceleration to hard a setting can jeopardize the blower. We recommend starting with a mid way setting, whereas four to five threads of the adjustment screw are showing. To adjust the BOV you will need a 12mm wrench and a 6mm Allen wrench. Using the 12mm open end wrench unlock the locking nut by turning it counter clock wise, once loose spin it a few threads up to make room for adjustment. Using the 6mm Allen wrench bring it in or out according to your adjustments and needs.

Note, in higher elevation it may be necessary to start with a higher setting to begin with to help keep more boost charged up, never run a fully closed valve always leave a minimum of 2-3 threads showing. It’s important that during cruising speeds the BOV is venting to atmosphere, if you do not hear a sure of constant air bleeding off at highway speeds then your BOV is too tight and you risk Dead Heading the blower.



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Boost Gauge: A boost gauge is a good gauge to have to visually drive the added power; it helps to have a gauge so you can easily find the power when it’s needed. RIPP sells a wide variety of boost gauges, from digital to analog, when shopping for a gauge purchase one that references both boost and vacuum.

Note: A boost gauge should be installed in the Orange vacuum line feeding the BOV and MAP Sensor outline in the Vacuum Diagram on page 24. The vacuum/Boost reference should only come from the intake manifold after the throttle body.

RIPP GAUGE Pods for JK’s and other vehicles. The JK is limited to space for on board instrumentation, we sourced out these gauge pods and think this is the easiest and best solution to the problem. These are very high quality units and are easy to install.

Snorkel Air Filter Box for River Raider Snorkel: RIPP offers this rugged carbon fiber sealed air box and filter combination to mate to the River Raider Snorkel System. If water crossings are in your future its best to be safe and add this option to your system



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RIVER Raider Snorkel Systems: RIPP worked exclusively with River Raider Products to develop a perfect match for your supercharger kits. If water crossings are in your future this snorkel with our air box is the smart choice.

MBRP Exhaust: RIPP has tested with a combination of nearly every exhaust system on the market. Most exhaust systems actually lost power. The cat back MBRP exhaust was the only exhaust to produce power from 1800rpm to red line. Most notably 6rear wheel HP through the midrange and a peak of 11 rear wheel HP at red line.

Hypertech Speedometer Calibrator: If you're running non-stock tires, a Speedometer Calibrator corrects the speedometer and odometer for tires up to 54 inches. This device is engineered for the speedometer recalibration functions of the Max Energy Programmer, but without the additional expense of the other tuning features. The Speedometer Calibrator also comes with a USB cable and a CD containing software to enable quick updates and upgrades over the internet. ALL JK’s running larger tires will need this calibrator to correct the TRD issue.



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Documents

Instruction Manual - ArenaBGfree.arenabg.com/ipb/JK/Jeep/Wrangler/JK/Jeep Wrangler JK Ripp S… · Jeep Wrangler JK Automatic and Manual ... RIPP Supercharger JEEP Wrangler 3.8