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Inground Swimming Pool Construction Photos

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Inground Swimming Pool Construction Photos For Steel and Polymer Walled Pools with Vinyl LinersPhotos Provided By Paramount Pools, Patriot Pools, Plum Perfect Pool & Spa

The Pool Guys show up to work on your new swimming pool!

The area of your Backyard where you want the pool located is marked out.

The excavator digs a big hole in your yard, pretty much making a big mess of your previously nice looking lawn.

The Pool Guys start to put up the wall panels - in these cases, they are steel walls.

Here you can see the pool kit being put together. There is a transit in the middle of the shallow end to make sure the walls are all the same height. You can see that a step has been added.

This shows the Pool Guy putting together a polymer (plastic) pool kit. The construction process is the same as a steel kit - except the walls and braces are made of a different material.

Now they are setting the pool wall panels on blocks so they can make sure they are all the same height and are at the right grade level.

Now the options are added to the pool, in this case a walkin step unit. Notice that some of the plumbing pipes are starting to be run around the pool as well.

Here you can see a lonely skimmer that has been installed toward the end of the pool wall. You can also see that the Aluminum Receptor Coping that the homeowner picked out has been started (the white metal piece screwed to the top of the wall).

The braces must be attached to each pool panel. They are the metal pieces you see here at an angle to the pool wall. Cement must be poured on each brace after the wall has been set to the right height and is plumb. The cement helps to keep the wall in place when it is being backfilled. It also adds strength for when the water is put into the pool. Later on, a solid concrete collar is poured around the bottom of all of the panels to ensure stability.

Here you can see a cement truck getting ready to pour the concrete collar that will stabilize the entire pool wall installation.

Here is a polymer wall pool kit after all the walls have been set - and options such as skimmers, steps and jets have already been installed. It is ready for the pool floor to be floated.

The pool floor must have sand added to it to make a nice smooth, comfortable pool bottom. In this photo, you can see that the deep end of the pool (the hopper) has already been floated. This means that the sand is smoothed out with trowels. This is actually the step where your pool shape comes to life and you can finally get an idea what your pool may look like when it is done! Notice the difference in the pool floor in the photo between where the Pool Guy is standing and in the hopper.

In this photo, you can see how nice and smooth the whole pool floor looks after it is troweled and floated.

Some customers prefer to have the floor of the pool made of cement rather than sand. This photo shows a cement bottom that has been installed in this pool.

Some customers prefer to have a foam padding installed on their pool walls prior to the liner being installed. This photo shows the guys installing that wall foam.

Once the pool floor is ready, it is time to get ready to put the pool liner in. In this photo, you can see it rolled up at the end of the pool - ready to be installed. This is usually a nervous time for both the installation crew and the pool owner ! Hope it fits. Hope it is the right color. Hope it doesn't rip !

Once the liner is put into the pool (otherwise known as dropping the bag), the installers will hang into the pool to make the fine adjustments necessary to guard off wrinkles in the liner. In a new pool, there should not be that many wrinkles (although sometimes a few cannot be helped).

Now it is time to fill the pool up with water. If you are friendly with your neighbors, it doesn't hurt to ask them if you could borrow a little water :o). The more neighbors and hoses - the faster the pool will fill !

After the pool is filled with water and backfilled with dirt (the dirt to fill in the area around the pool walls), the dive board stands and ladder and rail cups can be cemented in.

After the dirt around the pool has settled for a few weeks, the cement, bricks or other deck-work can be added to the pool area. After that, the ladder, rails, diving board, landscaping and other finishing touches can be installed. Then it's time to jump in and enjoy your brand new pool !

There are many considerations to think about when taking on construction of a swimming pool here are just a few of the main ones you need to decide upon to get you going:

Access to site Consideration would have to made for accessing your garden with plant equipment and for the removal of soil. Size/depth of the pool How big do you want the pool and what style & depth do you require? Orientation of the pool Where is the pool to be placed in relation to any adjoining buildings, walls etc. Other factors include wind, shade and overall views of the pool from the house and possibly your neighbours property?

Positioning of flow control, lights or steps/bays What extras do you want on the pool and where will they be positioned?

Ground conditions - Clay, chalk, high water table, etc What will you be excavating and how do you intend to dispose of this material? Is there a high water table? This is not a design issue as we have come up against many ground conditions. If detected at an early stage we will be able to advise you accordingly.

Heating If you are heating the pool then will it be by electricity, gas or oil? Environmental control within the pool hall If the project is indoors, there will be a requirement for inclusion of a dehumidification system. This will control the water temperature and the environment in the pool enclosure.

Usage of the pool Will the pool be used for exercise, fun, hydrotherapy, public use, diving, etc? Services available to site Is there access to electrics, water, gas, oil, etc?

All of the answers, and the pool for you can be found at www.diyswimmingpools.co.uk along with an actual case study which we have featured below.

When Gary Searle first considered owning a swimming pool he had to face a number of decisions. In this case study, we give you an honest and transparent overview of what the typical installation will require. This includes the cost of the pool and equipment as well as the man hours and raw materials required to get the job finished. In Garys own words I was at first daunted by the choices I had from the start. I knew I wanted a liner pool as I was aware they were popular in countries like the States and France for example. The next thing I had to decide was the actual method to build the pool shell itself. I simply searched on the Internet for Diy swimming pool kits, which took me to A& P Pools.

Marking out the excavation

Digging the hole

Bottom channel on top of the dig

Panels placed in walls erected

Step unit is camshell

goes down straight bottom channel & locked to the pool

Pool bottom screeded - note main drains protruding at

Screeded floor completed

Behind the pool panels is then backfilled

Pool surround is erected

25mm Polystyrene applied to screeded floor

ground level

Completed floor covering

Liner is placed at the bottom of the pool

Liner is locked into Pool liner is place pool sides removing all creases

Liner is gathered step unit

vacuumed back to around the corner

Pool is filled and decking surround added

Project complete!

Dig + Soil removal 890 + VAT using grab lorries via contractor found in yellow pages (A&P Pools) Excavation 470 + VAT for plant (3 tonne mini-digger, mini-dumper for one week) Materials for pool 820 + VAT (5 bags of sand, 70 bags of cement, 5 ton of pea-shingle, 20 ton of ballast, 2 x 1 batten for hopper, polystyrene for base) Labour costs using contractors and network of tradesmen/friends. 7.2m x 3.6m complete kit 9,444.65 inc VAT Liner fitting 1000 inc VAT Paving slabs & bricks 150 inc VAT Decking 1500 inc VAT Winter cover 354 inc VAT Boiler + Heat Exchanger 1000 inc VAT

Man Hours The project took a total of 180 man hours with an average of 2 men on site at any one time. This equates to 10 full working days to complete the project, however this was actually done during spare time & weekends.

Running costs - 24 x 12 pool, 260 + VAT to run this pool on gas for season (May to October). Concrete or blockwork liner pool would cost a minimum of 600 + VAT to run.

The system was explained to me along with the fact that I would receive technical support from the company throughout the build. The benefits of the Polypool outweighed any other presented to me by other companies I had contacted about this project. Im an engineer myself and did spend a lot of time studying the concept of the Polypool system. The first thing that struck me was the way it all went together. It was very straight forward. I employed the services of a few good friends and took my time. Whenever I had some spare time, I would do a little bit more. This whole job was

completed mainly at week-ends and evenings. I brought in contractors to excavate, put the panels in, screed the floor and fit the liner. In hindsight I neednt have done that. The bottom channel system and the panels went in no time and had I known how simple it was I would have done it myself. I was asked to work out how many man-hours the job took and to calculate the overall cost of the pool including the kit, the raw materials and any additional labour supplied by my contractors. I would just like to add that building this pool myself not only saved me a lot of money but also gave me a lot of satisfaction. The long-term benefit for me is that the running costs are already proving to be far lower than they would have been without the heat retention Polypool offered me. After one season, I estimate that the pool has cost us 500 to run including heating and chemicals etc. The family have had a lot of fun in and around the pool and its one of the best things Ive ever bought after my house and my car.

What ever DIY project you are doing you will need to protect your floors and hard surfaces. Temporary coverings are a great way to ensure that your carpets or hard floor surfaces are fully protected for the duration of your DIY work or indeed any refurbishment or alteration work that results in heavy foot traffic or spillage If you think this job might cause you too many problems and you would prefer free quotes from qualified, reliable, insured and vetted tradesperson, just click here and put the job details on one of our forms.

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Build Your Own Swimming Pool Step by StepBy: John Lewis

Building an in-ground pool can be a rewarding experience, and less daunting than you first imagine. Swimming pools today are manufactured from a variety of materials, and (some) are engineered to be almost easy to install. We will not cover building a concrete pool because a homeowner generally will not be able to install a concrete pool as it requires knowledge and tools beyond the scope of most homeowners. Our project is a vinyl liner pool with cement bottom and structural

plastic walls. The walls of today's pools are made of various materials that are assembled like a giant erector set. The pool manufacturers make the sides from aluminum, galvanized steel, plastic, and fiberglass. All of these materials are acceptable. Step 1: Determine the answer to a variety of questions before you start. (Click here for a discussion of these points and others) Pool location. How much fall the land has within the pool area. How deep you want your diving end to be. How high out of the ground the finished pool deck be. Local building code and permit requirements.

Step 2: Mark off the outline of the pool with stakes and string so that you can do fine tuning of final pool placement. Call for underground utilities to be marked (free service) so that you will not dig or trench through a buried cable or line. Secure your building permit. Determine supplier of pool and purchase pool kit, liner, Portland cement, vermiculite and all necessary supplies such as sliding board, pool vacuum etc. (These will be covered later)

Step 3: On the big day...start digging in the deep end. The pattern of the dig follows the diagram below. (which is a top, side and end view of the pool)

Step 4: The pool kit you purchase will provide the measurements for the final size of the pool bottom and sides. You will aim to over dig the sides of the pool approximately 24" bigger than your outline marked on the ground when you started. This provides working room for the panels, room for the panel braces shown in the picture to the right, and is where the concrete footer is poured that holds the bottom of the panel and panel braces.

Note: Our project in the photographs is a 6' deep Grecian style pool which has clipped corners. This changes the deep end bottom shape from that shown in our rectangular pool drawings above. You will dig down 42" for the pool walls and shallow end depth. The deep end is further excavated as shown in the picture on left. There is a 2' wide shelf outside the deep end as shown in both the picture and the drawing above it. The pool walls sit on the edge of this shelf and are held in place by 24" rebar stakes driven through the bottom.

After excavation is complete it is time to clean up the rough excavation and start assembling and placing the panels. Clean up the rough edges and make the 42" shelf and shallow end level and straight using a transit/builders level, and tape measure. Make sure the shelf and shallow end bottom are level and flat, as this is what the panels will sit on. If this shelf and pool bottom are 1" out of level, then your final pool will be 1" out when you are finished. Step 5: Install panels. Use 2' long, 1/2" thick rebar as stakes through bottom of panels into ground to hold panels in place. Use spikes and string to make outline of pool for guide in assembling panels. Step 6: After your satisfied the pool panels are level (you can shim up low spots with pieces of brick or block) then run string along the top of straight runs and adjust wall braces to make the top straight. Step 7: Cut and install coping. This also helps keep long runs of wall straight. See our advice on coping in our discussion mentioned earlier. Step 8: Prepare bottom for cement mix. Run strings along all bottom angle lines in the dirt as shown in photo above. Place the strings on large nails or spikes in the soil, following the final measurements you want your pool bottom to be. Step9: While preparing the bottom in step 8, also dig out (these are the liner measurements provided by the for the bottom drain in the center of the deep end diving pool kit supplier.) Now make sure there is 2" space well as shown in various pictures. Make the drain box 2" below these strings. This is for the 2" of cement mixture you will be adding to make the bottom. above the excavation level of the soil.

Step 10: Time to install your plumbing. Run 1 1/2" PVC plumbing lines. You will have 3 lines from the filter to the pool. 1. Wall line to pool (1 line, 2 wall outlets) 2. Bottom drain line 3. Skimmer return line Your skimmer should be in the deep end (on the side), and if there are prevailing winds, it should be downwind so floating debris is helped toward the skimmer. Water return lines to pool should be located at opposite end of pool from skimmer.

Step 11 Pour footer concrete. The footer locks the bottom of the wall brace (which by design locks the top of the wall) and the bottom of the wall in place.

Depending on vehicle access, and how much you want to "pull" concrete, you may find a loader helpful in placing the concrete in the footer cavity as shown in our pictures. The footer should be 6-8 inches thick.

Note: In-the-wall steps are a popular feature and will replace some panels in your pool wall. They need to be supported underneath as shown in the instructions that come with them. As shown in the pictures you can run your plumbing lines through the wall braces for support. Simply drill your inlet holes through the pool wall at approximately the height of the middle horizontal support on the wall braces. This way the PVC piping can sit on the braces until it takes the turn away from the pool toward the filter.

Step 12: Work begins on the bottom. This is easier than it looks. The bottom of a pool is not as flat as sidewalks and patios, so most homeowners can trowel out an acceptable 2" thick bottom finish. Rent a mortar mixer (the largest one they have!) The mix ratio is 1 large bag of vermiculite (50lbs) to 94lb bag of Portland Cement, and 10 gallons of water. Vary these measurements to suit your needs, as you may need less or more water. Also, you will have to cut these measurements in smaller increments as mortar mixers cannot hold the batch size described above.

Start placing and finishing the 2" cement mixture at the deep end as shown. Start at the top of the diving well slopes, working your way toward the bottom drain. Use a wood or metal concrete finishing tool. The correct finish is smooth and flat....not beautiful. Remove the grade nails and strings as you finish an area. Work your way out of the deep end toward the shallow end.

The cement mixture with the correct moisture content will look relatively dry when compared to concrete. Note: Any pool building supplies that are not available from the supplier of the pool such as vermiculite, can be purchased locally from a pool contracting company. Portland cement and PVC plumbing lines are available at home centers, and building material stores.

If you have in-the-wall steps, curve the cement bottom up on the plastic front piece of the step unit with a 2" radius. In other words add extra cement where the step unit meets the bottom, and smooth it up the front wall of the step unit 2". The vinyl liner has trouble stretching into this bottom corner of the pool, so it is being filled in.

Step 13: Installing the liner is next. Your pool will probably be backfilled by this step. (unlike these pictures) When you order the liner you will provide the critical measurements shown on our discussion page, and any other measurements they ask for. Normally each liner is custom made for each pool after the exact measurements are known. This allows you to have small variations in your actual layout.

Start at the deep end and pull out the entire liner. Align the liner by lining up a seam in the vinyl with the appropriate wall panel seam, and start hooking the top of the liner in the grove in the coping.

Pool kits and liner information: You can find many choices on the internet for your pool kits, filters and vinyl liners. Here is one: WaterWarehouse.com

After the liner is hooked in to the top, kick out wrinkles and tuck into corners as shown. The boxes used are the box the liner was shipped in. They aid in tucking the liner into the corners. The liner will look small during this step. It stretches considerably after water is added. Notice how the liner spans over the walk out steps opening. This is left this way until you have 8" of water in the shallow end, then screw on the flange and cut the liner out of the step well.

Open up a small section of the liner at the top and insert shop vacuum as shown. Vacuum hose should reach to bottom of pool. Duck tape closed the liner/hose opening. Turn on vacuum and it will pull the liner tighter to the sides of the pool. Smooth out any wrinkles. Vacuum should run until their is 8" of water in the shallow end.

Start filling pool. When there is 2" of water in the deep end, smooth any wrinkles, screw on bottom drain collar, and cut out liner from center of drain box. Place top on drain. Notice in picture at right that your concrete deck will sit on top of the wall and be supported 18" out by the top of the wall braces. Also notice the location of the extra cement placed under the liner at the bottom of the step unit during the bottom cementing step described on the previous page.

Starting out correctly is very important...so do your homework. Determine the answers to the questions listed on page one of this article. Look for problems with your site such as drainage, or rock that may impact excavation. You can save about 50% by doing this job yourself over hiring it out to a swimming pool contractor. You can save about 150% over building a gunite/concrete pool. Contrary to popular opinion, when you sell your house, whether you have a vinyl liner pool or a concrete pool will make very little difference in the final outcome. Vinyl liner pools need a new liner every 8-10 years (at $800-$1600) and gunite pools need to be re-plastered every 10 years because the final coating of cement is etched away by the pool chemicals. (cost $1200-$1600). Besides, after you tell prospective home buyers your pool has a cement bottom and polymer sides under the liner, most concerns end there. A good rule of thumb is to put the top of the pool 6" above the highest point on your ground surrounding the pool. Find a good back hoe operator. You can try to hire the machine operator from swimming pool contractors and see if they will dig on nights or weekends privately for you. Another source of good machine operators will be septic system installers. You want someone who is on their machine daily. He will need a builders level/transit for determining that the excavation is level. Be ready for a mess. It does not matter whether you hire out the entire job, or do the entire job yourself, your back yard will look like a bomb went off in it! Plan on renting a skid loader (bobcat) for backfilling the pool walls and rough landscaping and grading in preparation for concrete pool deck. Plan on renting a 4 wheel drive tractor with grader box and stone rake for final landscaping and seed preparation. Polymer sided pools are excellent, and by far the most common. Do not believe just about any negative comment you read in competitive literature about polymer sides on in-ground pools. Galvanized steel sided pools are acceptable however future buyers of your home may question the longevity of steel, and it may raise questions...even though they are unwarranted. (With today's galvanizing processes...rust is not an issue) Fiberglas is hard to find and tends to be brittle. Aluminum is expensive, but probably the highest quality. Line up all your subcontractors ahead of time. If you use a standard concrete finisher in place of one for swimming pools, you will save between $.75-$1.00 per sq ft on the job. Fencing is an issue you will need to check with your local building code department about. For coping, buy the biggest and most expensive coping they offer for your pool. It holds the walls straighter, and the difference in cost is well worth it. Ask the supplier if they have a good, better and best selection in coping. The pool bottom will be a Portland cement and vermiculite mixture. This will harden to a softer surface than concrete, and is smoother and causes less wear on the vinyl liner. Add extra cement at the bottom of in the wall steps as described in the article. Select Pump/Filter location based on proximity to pool and source of electricity. Your pump/filter should not be excessively far from pool just to be close to electricity source. Pump and filter should be 30' or less from pool. Pool kits, filters and liners are available on the internet at discounted prices. Here is one source...see if you can beat the offering here! WaterWarehouse.com

You can make the deep end of your pool 6' or 8' deep, because the liner is going to be made to your specifications, for your pool. A 6' deep pool allows diving but no diving board. Critical measurements your vinyl liner manufacturer will need.

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Perencanaan Desain Kolam Renang Bahan Bangunan Alternatif dapat Menekan Ongkos?

Perencanaan Desain Kolam RenangBerikut ini informasi bagi Anda yang berencana memiliki sebuah kolam renang pribadi. Beberapa hal yang perlu diperhatikan dan dipertimbangkan dalam perencanaan diantaranya: Pertama : Ketersediaan Lahan untuk Lokasi Kolam. Ketersediaan lahan sebagai tempat lokasi penempatan kolam renang nanti merupakan hal pertama yang harus dipertimbangkan. Sebuah kolam renang keluarga tentunya berdekatan atau menjadi satu dengan area rumah. Kedua : Mempelajari Jenis Struktur dan Sistem Filtrasi Kolam Renang Sebagaimana artikel terdahulu mengenai jenis-jenis kolam renang yang saat ini disediakan oleh kontraktor kolam renang, berikut informasi perbedaan mendasar dari dua jenis struktur konstruksi dan system filtrasi kolam renang :

A. Sistem kolam renang konvensional/ dengan pemipaan (underground piping). Sistem kolam renang pemipaan adalah sistem pembuatan kolam renang dimana pada struktur konstruksi bagian bawah kolam di tanam pipa pipa yang digunakan untuk membantu mengalirkan air ke tanki penyaringan dan untuk mengalirkan air yang telah difilter kembali ke kolam. B. Sistem kolam renang terintegrasi (integrated pool and filter). System kolam renang jenis ini adalah system kolam renang dimana pada struktur konstruksi kolam tidak diperlukan pipa-pipa. Untuk penyaringan air, digunakan system filtrasi yang secara struktur menyatu dengan struktur kolam utama (monolithic structure). System ini sangat menguntungkan bagi pemilik kolam yang tidak memiliki lahan yang luas, karena penenmpatan pompa dan filter kolam yang digunakan diletakkan dibibir/ didalam kolam. Ketiga : Memilih bahan Material Konstruksi kolam renang. Hal lain yang sangat penting adalah pertimbangan dalam memilih bahan untuk material konstruksi kolam renang. Bahan material konvensional dengan system pengecoran pada seluruh struktur kolam dapat saja dilakukan untuk kolam yang berada pada lokasi tanah yang stabil dan tidak rawan gempa, sebaliknya perhitungkan resiko keretakan bila kolam dibangun pada wilayah yang rawan terkena gempa bumi Keempat : Mengetahui Tipe-tipe Filter kolam renang Pada komplimen sebuah kolam renang, filter digunakan sebagai alat untuk mensirkulasi air dan bahan obatobatan (chemical) agar kejernihan dan kebersihan air selalu terjaga. Ada beberapa tipe filter yang dapat kita pilih pada saat perencanaan awal sebelum membuat kolam renang. Alternatif tipe filter yang akan digunakan nantinya sangat berhubungan dengan konstruksi struktur kolam renang itu sendiri. Tiga macam tipe filter dapat anda pelajari pada posting kami terdahulu yakni Type of Pool Filters. Kelima : Mempelajari Cara Merawat Kolam dan Perawatan Air Kolam Renang Untuk perawatan air kolam, dapat dilakukan sendiri atau menyewa jasa yang khusus melakukan perawatan air. Sedangkan untuk chemicalnya dapat dibeli sendiri atau dapat pula dibeli pada pihak penyedia jasa perawatan kolam renang. Mudah tidaknya pekerjaan perawatan kolam tentunya tergantung pula pada jenis struktur konstruksi dan system filtrasi seperti sebagaimana dipaparkan tersebut di atas dumilahpark.com

Desain Konstruksi Kolam RenangDESAIN Dari sisi desain, Kolam Renang berbentuk persegi empat merupakan bentuk paling efektif karena bisa bergerak lurus dengan nyaman serta menghemat lahan. Bentuk yang sederhana ini bisa dieksplorasi dengan sistem overflow, sehingga air tidak hanya diam tapi mengalir terus melewati bibir kolam. Sekilas seperti aliran sungai yang menghasilkan suara gemericik dan menyatu dengan taman asri di sekelilingnya.

Kebutuhan ruang untuk pompa dan tempat balancing tank untuk penyaringan air akan sangat tergantung luas kolam, makin besar ukuran kolam, makin besar ukuran instrumen yang diperlukan. Misalnya, dengan luas kolam yang anda inginkan yaitu 8 m x 3 m untuk ruang pompa paling sedikit butuh 1 x 1 x 1,5 m. Perletakannya bisa di sisi tengah atau pinggir kolam dan bisa sejajar atau lebih rendah dari permukaan air kolam. Kita bisa menutupi alat-alat yang menonjol keluar dengan patungpatung air mancur atau ornamen agar enak dipandang. KONSTRUKSI Dari sisi konstruksinya Kolam Renang bisa didalam tanah (ground pool) atau di atas tanah (above pool) , tetapi pada umumnya konstruksinya di dalam tanah. Setelah kita menentukan letak kolam maka dilakukan pembersihan dan penggalian dengan terlebih dulu menentukan level permukaan kolam. Kedalaman kolam tidak ada ketentuan khusus, tetapi harus anda sesuaikan dengan kebutuhan. Bila anak-anak anda masih kecil dan belum mahir berenang buatlah kedalaman terendah berdasarkan ketinggian anak anda pada saat kolam selesai dibuat, sedangkan bagian paling dalam bisa anda sesuaikan dengan keinginan anda. Apabila anda kurang yakin anda bisa membandingkannya pada kolam renang umum atau hotel seberapa nyaman kedalaman untuk anda berenang dan kedalaman ideal untuk anak-anak anda. Struktur kolam renang di dalam tanah dibuat dari rangka besi yang kemudian dicor dengan beton. Sebaiknya anda menggunakan beton ready mix dalam pengecorannya sehingga mutu beton dan kekuatannya terjamin. Setelah beton benar-benar mengering hal terpenting adalah membuat kolam mennjadi kedap air ,sehingga tidak terjadi kebocoran yang pasti lebih menyulitkan apabila kolam sudah jadi. Di sini butuh pengawasan yang ketat, dari mulai pemilihan jenis dan merk waterproofing hingga pada saat pengaplikasiannya. Lakukanlah tes berulang-ulang dengan cara merendam kolam dengan air sampai anda yakin sudah tidak ada kebocoran lagi. Setelah yakin, tahap finishing bisa dilakukan dengan menutup dinding kolam dan dasar kolam dengan keramik khusus untuk kolam renang (mozaic). Dinding kolam bisa menggunakan satu jenis keramik dengan warna yang sama dengan variasi keramik border di bagian atasnya, sedangkan dasar kolam bisa menggunakan jenis keramik dengan ukuran dan warna yang berbeda. Warna biru tetap menjadi favorit karena berkesan bersih dan menyegarkan. Hindari warna putih karena perawatannya akan lebih sulit. Apabila warna air di daerah anda tidak begitu putih, maka keramik dengan warna kecoklatan juga bisa menjadi pilihan. Yang terpenting di sini hindari warna putih karena lebih sulit perawatannya dan warna gelap yang menimbulkan ketakutan bagi anak-anak.

Tips Membuat Kolam Renang

Pertama : Ketersediaan Lahan untuk Lokasi Kolam. Ketersediaan lahan sebagai tempat lokasi penempatan kolam renang atau Swimming Pool Ideas & Swimming Pools Design nanti merupakan hal pertama yang harus dipertimbangkan. Sebuah kolam renang keluarga tentunya berdekatan atau menjadi satu dengan area rumah. Lahan yang biasanya menjadi target lokasi kolam renang adalah halaman rumah atau ruang struktur rumah yang masih memungkinkan tersedia untuk itu. Lahan yang tersedia akan menentukan ukuran dimensi sebuah kolam renang ( panjang, lebar, kedalaman ), dan design / bentuk kolam renang yang dapat di bangun sesuai dengan keinginan anda.

Kedua : Mempelajari Jenis Struktur dan Sistem Filtrasi Kolam Renang Sebagaimana artikel terdahulu mengenai jenis-jenis kolam renang yang saat ini disediakan oleh kontraktor kolam renang, berikut informasi perbedaan mendasar dari dua jenis struktur konstruksi dan system filtrasi kolam renang :

A. Sistem kolam renang konvensional/ dengan pemipaan (underground piping). Sistem kolam renang pemipaan adalah sistem pembuatan kolam renang dimana pada struktur konstruksi bagian bawah kolam renang / Swimming Pool di tanam pipa pipa yang digunakan untuk membantu mengalirkan air ke tanki penyaringan dan untuk mengalirkan air yang telah difilter kembali ke kolam. Selain itu digunakan pompa dan filter yang berada diluar struktur utama kolam sebagai alat untuk mensirkulasi air, disamping diperlukan pula obat obatan (chlorine) agar air tetap jernih. Diperlukan dua bidang lahan untuk pembuatan kolam dengan system ini yaitu lahan untuk struktur kolam utama dan lahan untuk penempatan alat-alat filtrasi (pump room).

B. Sistem kolam renang terintegrasi (integrated pool and filter). System kolam renang / Swimming Pools jenis ini adalah system kolam renang dimana pada struktur konstruksi kolam tidak diperlukan pipa-pipa. Untuk penyaringan air, digunakan system filtrasi yang secara struktur menyatu dengan struktur kolam(kata lainnya Pools Designs, Pool Idea, Pool Ideas & Pools Ideas) utama (monolithic structure). System ini sangat menguntungkan bagi pemilik kolam yang tidak memiliki lahan yang luas atau Swimming Pool Ideas & Swimming Pools Design, karena penenmpatan pompa dan filter kolam yang digunakan diletakkan dibibir/ didalam kolam. Ketiga : Memilih bahan Material Konstruksi kolam renang. Hal lain yang sangat penting adalah pertimbangan dalam memilih bahan untuk material konstruksi kolam renang(berkonsultasilah dengan jasa Swimming Pools Designs & Swimming Pool Idea). Bahan material konvensional dengan system pengecoran pada seluruh struktur kolam dapat saja dilakukan untuk kolam yang berada pada lokasi tanah yang stabil dan tidak rawan gempa, sebaliknya perhitungkan resiko keretakan bila kolam dibangun pada wilayah yang rawan terkena gempa bumi. Keempat : Mengetahui Tipe-tipe Filter kolam renang Pada komplimen sebuah kolam renang / Swimming Pools, filter digunakan sebagai alat untuk mensirkulasi air dan bahan obat-obatan (chemical) agar kejernihan dan kebersihan air selalu terjaga. Ada beberapa tipe filter yang dapat kita pilih pada saat perencanaan awal sebelum

membuat kolam renang. Alternatif tipe filter yang akan digunakan nantinya sangat berhubungan dengan konstruksi struktur kolam renang itu sendiri(minta bantuan jasa Swimming Pools Designs & Swimming Pool Idea). Tiga macam tipe filter dapat anda pelajari pada posting kami terdahulu yakni Type of Pool Filters. Kelima : Mempelajari Cara Merawat Kolam dan Perawatan Air Kolam Renang Perawatan air kolam renang merupakan hal yang perlu mendapatkan perhatian lebih bagi pemilik Swimming Pool . Kualitas air yang kurang baik atau buruk dapat menghilangkan minat penghuni rumah untuk berenang. Disamping itu, air yang tidak jernih dapat mengurangi keindahan kolam itu sendiri dan secara keseluruhan akan memperburuk tampilan rumah anda. Untuk perawatan air kolam, dapat dilakukan sendiri atau menyewa jasa yang khusus melakukan perawatan air. Sedangkan untuk chemicalnya dapat dibeli sendiri atau dapat pula dibeli pada pihak penyedia jasa perawatan kolam renang