How-To Install Your Triumph Spitfire Interior BRITISH LTD. / Box 14991 / Lenexa, KS 66285-4991 / 1-800-255-0088 Spitfire Interior Kit Exclusive Special Interior Kits Made In England

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m O

n ...

The Road

™

✰ Special Interior Kits ✰Made In England By The BMH Chosen Manufacturer

Exclusive United States Distributor

VICTORIA BRITISH LTD.®

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How-To Install YourTriumph Spitfire Interior

SG.16

VICTORIA BRITISH LTD. / Box 14991 / Lenexa, KS 66285-4991 / 1-800-255-0088

Spitfire Interior Kit

✰ Exclusive ✰ Special Interior Kits

Made In England

2

VICTORIA BRITISH LTD.®

The Exclusive United States Distributor

For 1973-80 Triumph Spitfire

VICTORIA BRITISH LTD. is the Exclusive distributor for these Special Interior Kits. Whether you are doing a complete restoration or just want to upgrade your interior, these kits will save you money.

Made from high quality black and biscuit colored vinyl, kits include everything you need to make your car look showroom new again. They come equipped with everything you need to complete the interior of your car. Each kit has piping colored to match the complete interior.

Give your car an interior that will be admired for years to come. Call and order a Special Interior Kit today.

● 2 Door Panels

● Door Panel Clips

● 2 Door Capping Coverings

● Rear Quarter Panel Kit

● Rear Cockpit Panel

● Vinyl Seat Kit

● 2 Vinyl Headrest Covers

● 2 Seat Bottom Foams

● 2 Seat Back Foams

● Complete Black Carpet Set

PART # DESCRIPTIOn AnD APPLICATIOn REQD1973-80 Spitfire Vinyl Interior Kits

16-342-BB Special Interior Kit Black/Black Spitfire 73-80 (1)16-342-BS Special Interior Kit Biscuit Spitfire 73-80 (1)

Just Look At All You Get:

Available in Black Or Biscuit Vinyl

The Spitfire Biscuit Interior Kit comes with Black Carpet Set.


The most intimidating, complex appearing and actually the simplest part of your Triumph Spitfire is the interior upholstery.

no timing lights, gapping tools, torque wrenches, oscilloscopes or brain surgeon capabilities are required ... no paint booths, hydraulic car lifts or nASA clean rooms are needed ... no grandmother with an industrial sewing machine, or esoteric heat sealing presses are required for you to do-it-yourself. Basic hand tools you probably already own, or can borrow from a friend or dad, will help you get the job done. A garage would be nice but an interior can be installed in an apartment complex parking lot ... you should pick one in the shade. Seats can be removed, taken indoors and reupholstered in the middle of the winter.

The interior components in these kits already have all of the seams, flutes, grooves and patterns made into them. You just remove, dismantle and reinstall.This is the one part of a car that generates the most attention if it is done right. Doing it right is the way we wrote this special section to assure you that “you can do it”. The magic of an interior is having all of the correct components ... and these kits do! ... Why you should do-it-yourself ... because now you know you can!

Remember, if you don’t have the time, buy the kit and take it to a professional upholstery shop. You know what the finished job will look like before it’s done. These kits make upholstery shops look good.

Why You Should Do-It-Yourself !For Your Information 3

This Symbol Is Important To YouVictoria British Ltd. has been selected as a British Motor Heritage Distributor for the USA. Our dedication and commitment to supplying quality original equipment, replacement and reproduction parts for your British Sports Car and our high standards of customer service resulted in this industry honor.

This symbol on our upholstery accessory pages is your assurance that this product is from a BMH Manufacturer.

British Motor Heritage, Ltd. is the official organization in England dedicated to facilitating a continuing supply of replacement and restoration parts for all British vehicles. BMH provides a permanent link to the actual manufacturer of your British Sports Car by supplying us with factory information and original equipment contacts. This, in turn, enables us to maintain the most complete and highest quality supply of proper replacement, restoration and maintenance parts for your vehicle.

Index Page # Special Interior Kits 2Interior Kit Installation Instructions: Tools needed For Installation 3 General Intructions and Tips 4 Carpet & Panel Reolaxement 4-7 Door Panel Replacement 7-8 Seat Cover Replacement 8-10

What You Need To Do-It-Yourself

● 2 Flat Head Screwdrivers; 1 Small and 1 Medium

● 2 Phillips Head Screwdrivers; #1 and #3

● Open End and Socket Wrenches; 5/8", 7/16", 1/2"

● Spray-on or Brush-on Carpet and Trim Adhesive

● Carpet and Upholstery Cleaner

● Pop Rivet Gun and 1/8" Rivets

● Electric Drill with 1/8" Metal Bit

● Razor or Utility Knife

● 2 Pieces of Cloth-Approx. 24"x24"

● Awl or Ice Pick

● Masking Tape

● Scissors

● Hammer

● Staple Gun


General Instructions and TipsRead ahead a paragraph or two at a time so you can plan ahead. Lay out items as you dismantle the car and match them up with the new parts. Lay out all carpet pieces and to match location and size.

Keep the parts for each area labeled with masking tape and marking pen for easier location later. Small containers such as plastic film canisters or baby food jars that can be taped to the larger parts come in handy. Don’t throw all the parts into one container, as you may forget which piece went where.

Don’t throw away anything until you are sure that you won’t need it again. This is a good idea anytime with an older car, considering the decreasing availability of parts.

Where holes are needed in new panels for screws or rivets, place the old panel on top of the new panels and tap the awl firmly with a hammer to punch the pilot hole at each spot. Use the old panels or a piece of cardboard under the area where you are working to keep from damaging your work area.

Use a knife or scissors to trim carpet and other material. You may lightly tap the material with a hammer to aid sticking the carpet down and removing wrinkles.

Clean and vacuum as you go so you eliminate having old abrasive dirt under your new interior. Keep your hands clean and dry while working with new carpet and vinyl.

When gluing, apply adhesive to both surfaces and allow to dry slightly before joining.

Use a good quality cleaner designed to remove glue from carpets and upholstery to remove overspray or glue spills.

Rivets will have to be drilled out with an electric drill and a 1/8" drill bit. If a rivet starts to spin as you drill, hold it in place with the tip of a flat screwdriver and then place the drill at a slight angle.

Disconnect the battery cables before working, to avoid the possibility of shorting out anything while working. This would be a good time to check the condition of the floor boards, doors and any other body sections for rust, corrosion and wear. Repair these before installing your new interior.

How To Do-It-Yourself4

Spitfire Interior Installation Easy To Follow Step-By-Step Instructions

Getting Started

Unsnap convertible top boot and remove the convertible top retaining bar. Unsnap and remove convertible top, frame hardware and attachments using the #3 Phillips screwdriver. Remove the door seal trim by unscrewing chrome finisher plate and drilling out rivet.

Check for wear, replace trim if necessary, or if this old trim does not match your new interior. Store to keep for later use.

Remove Seats and Panels

Push the seat all the way back and loosen the two clips that hold the seat base to the frame in front. Grab the front of the seat base on each side and pull up and forward to remove (Fig. 1).

Make sure to disconnect seat sensor switch wire. Use a 7/16" socket wrench to loosen and remove the front bolts holding the seat frame to the floorboards (Fig. 2).

Figure 1 Figure 2


Pull the old vinyl off of the wheel well and clean the wheel well thoroughly to remove dirt and old glue.

When dry, apply glue to both the wheel well and the back of the new vinyl.

When the glue is tacky, press the vinyl into place, starting at the center and working out. Leave plenty of overlap to be trimmed away later.

Smooth and slightly stretch the vinyl as you apply it to eliminate any wrinkles and bubbles. Pull loose the vinyl strip on B-post, clean and replace with the new vinyl in the same manner as the wheel well vinyl.

Leave plenty of vinyl to overlap the edges and trim away the excess where needed (Fig. 10). Hold new quarter panels in place to check the overlap, then trim away excess vinyl on wheel well.

Punch screw holes into new panels using awl and hammer described above.

Remove the seat belt attachment spacer in the wheel well by prying loose with a strong flathead screwdriver (Fig. 9).

notice the placement of the spacers under frame, and set them aside with the bolts. Move the seats into the full forward position and use the socket wrench to remove rear seat bolts (Fig. 3).

Keep the two seat base foams separate, as the right and left sides are different shapes.

Remove seat belts with a 5/8» socket (Fig. 4). Keep track of which side each seat belt mechanism belongs to for later replacement. Check condition of the belts, and replace them if necessary.

Remove the rear deck carpet, then use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the screws along each side of the rear cockpit panel, and pull it out (Fig. 5).

Using the old panels as guides, punch holes into the new panels using a hammer and awl (Fig. 6).

How To Do-It-Yourself 5

Pull out the panel, and remove the screws at the front of the rear quarter panels (Fig. 7). The rear of the quarter panels are held to the frame with two clips. Pull these clips off and set aside (Fig. 8).

Figure 3

Figure 4 Figure 5

Figure 6

Figure 7 Figure 8

Figure 9

Figure 10


Clip the rear of quarter panel in, then curve the panel around the side and attach with screws at the B-post (Fig. 11).

Attach the rear cockpit panel by screwing into place. Use the new rings provided on each screw.

Door PanelsRoll window all the way down, then remove the window crank handle by using two screwdrivers, one to pry the panel and handle apart, and one to carefully push out the retaining clip (Fig. 12).

Remove the single screw that holds in door handle bezel by pulling on the handle with one hand and slipping the bezel off with the other hand (Fig. 13).

Starting at one end of the panel and working towards the other, pry loose the door panel, using a screwdriver for leverage if needed.

Leave the plastic and foam in place on the door, or replace if needed. Watch for the window crank handle spring from behind the panel.

Remove plastic door pull trim and save to reuse with the new door panel.

Remove old weatherstrip along the window opening by prying it out with a screwdriver. This process will probably ruin this strip, so have a new one ready to install.


When you remove the weatherstrip, the top rail cover will loosen, and should be removed from the door.

Insert the new door rail cover and weatherstrip by gently prying open each clip with a flat head screwdriver and pushing the strip and cover into place (Fig. 14).

Check the alignment of the holes in the top rail cover for the door panel clips, and trim them out if needed. Apply glue to both ends of the top rail cover, as well as to the door frame where it will touch. When the glue is tacky, use masking tape to hold the cover in place until it is thoroughly dry (Fig. 15).

Refit the plastic trim from the old door pull onto the new panel (Fig. 16).

Place the plastic clips into the new door panel in the same positions they were in the old panel.

Figure 11

Figure 12

Figure 15

Figure 13

Figure 16

Figure 14



Lay the rear floor carpet into place. Use an awl or icepick to locate the holes for the seat frame and seat belt attachment bolts.

Mark each spot and cut a small round hole to allow for the bolts (Fig. 22).

Bolt all the seat belt components into place.

Clean all areas as well as possible and check for corrosion and wear. Correct these problems, if needed.

Apply glue to the back of the side foot well carpets and to the corresponding body area. When tacky, press firmly into place. Then apply glue to the door sill and carpet. Check the fit carefully, especially around the cross member, trimming with scissors if necessary.

Glue in the carpet for the short panel at the rear of the floor section, tapping lightly with a small hammer to help mold the carpet around the supports. Lay the rear ramp carpet into place and clip the plastic moulding over the metal lip at the front (Fig. 21).

Put the window crank spring in place, then carefully align each panel clip as you press it into the door frame, keeping the spring held in place as you do (Fig. 17).

Using a box knife, cut an “X” in the vinyl to allow for the window crank hardware. Carefully replace the window crank handle, setting the retaining clip with a screwdriver as before. Try using needle-nose pliers or a magnetic tip screwdriver to help position this clip. Install the door handle bezel in the same way it was removed.

Carpet Installation

Lay out new carpet pieces by the car in the position they are to be installed. Check each piece before installing to be sure of position and fit. Most of the carpet pieces are molded to ease fitting. Unscrew four screws that hold transmission tunnel cover in place (Fig. 18).

Remove this cover, then unscrew and remove the knee pads and armrest/hand brake cover.

Remove floor carpeting. The front floor carpets are held in place with snaps, and the rear floor carpet is set into place, so these will just lift out. Using a socket wrench, loosen bolts at the base of the radio support panel (Fig. 19).

Remove the Phillips screws at the top, allowing movement of the panel for removal and replacement of the carpet beneath. For more ease in working, you may remove this panel and radio completely, making sure to mark all wires as you disconnect them.

Unscrew the gear shift knob, disconnecting the switch wiring if equipped with overdrive. This will allow you to pull loose the carpet under the dash and over the gear shifter. Pull loose the other carpet along the door sills and sides of the foot wells (Fig. 20).

Figure 17 Figure 20

Figure 18

Figure 21

Figure 19

Figure 22



Position the front gear box carpet under the dash, slipping the shift gaiter cover in place.

Make sure the carpet is fit well, then locate the position of the holes for the radio support panel bolts. Trim a small hole for these bolts.

Replace the gear shift knob, and reinstall the radio support panel.

Position each front floor carpet in the car use the awl locate and mark the position of the snap studs beneath. If a stud is missing, drill a 1/8» hole in the flooring and attach the supplied stud using a pop-rivet gun.

At each stud location, trim away a small bit of the carpet fiber to allow for the top of the ring clip. Push the points of the clip down using a flathead screwdriver (Fig. 23).

Repeat for the other clips and snap the carpet into place.

Seat Covers

Using pliers, remove the clips from the wire frame of the seat base to loosen and remove the cover. Pull the old fire retardant fabric from the seat foam, and reuse it on the bottom of the new foams. Use the new cardboard seat stiffeners under the foam.

Turn the cover edges inside out, and apply glue to the back of the ribbed portion of the seat cover, as well as the sections on each side. Also glue the corresponding areas

on the foam (Fig. 24).

When the glue is tacky, align the edge of cover’s ribbed section with the recessed area of foam, and also at the front.

Put one hand inside the rolled back cover, into the corner, and use the other hand to pull cover over the edge of the foam (Fig. 25). Repeat for the

other side, making sure to align all the edges of the piping in the same direction to eliminate lumps.

Put the seat base back into the wire frame and attach the cover to the frame, using pliers to attach the wire clips around the vinyl (Fig. 26).

Start at the center of front and rear, then work out to the corners, keeping the vinyl pulled tight and even all along. Attach each side, and trim away the excess vinyl.

Remove seat adjustment handle from the side of seat back using a Phillips screwdriver (Fig. 27).

Take careful note as you proceed of how the seat cover is attached for later refitting. Set the seat upside down and pull the black seat release handle, swinging the runners away from the frame.

Pull off clips that hold the old seat back cover to the frame at the very bottom. Fold this first flap back and unclip the fabric that comes back from the front of the seat (Fig. 28).

Figure 23

Figure 25

Figure 26

Figure 27

Figure 28Figure 24


Apply glue to the back edge of the foam, as well as to the frame and webs (Fig. 33).


Pull down on the flaps on each side of the cover to release the hook from the frame. Fold back flap and remove the old board by pulling the staples loose and slipping out (Fig. 29).

If this board is worn, carefully drill out the rivets holding the hook. Set the hook aside, then use the old board as a template to cut a new board out of the old door panel or rear cockpit panel.

Mark where the holes for the rivets belong, then either screw the hook in place or drill small holes and pop-rivet the hook on. Mark and cut the hole to allow for the frame bolt. Swing the runners back into place on frame.

Pull the cover loose from the foam in front, then reach in to pull out the flap of fabric that feeds through the middle of the foam (Fig. 30).

Pull and roll the cover up over the headrest, and using a flathead screwdriver, release the headrest retaining clip at the base of the headrest shaft (Fig. 31).

Pull loose the headrest, cover and seat back foam.

now is the time to check for worn hardware, rust and the general condition of the frame. Repair or replace any necessary parts, and wire brush or steel wool off any rust, then repaint to prevent further rusting.

Reuse your old side flap boards, if they are in good condition, otherwise make new ones by using the old ones as a template. Transfer the metal brackets onto the new boards, making sure they are fitted into the correct sides and fit snuggly in the side pockets of the seat cover.

Using scissors, trim away just enough of the vinyl to allow for the hook and the frame bolt (Fig. 32), then glue the inside of the vinyl to the boards.

Place the seat foam on the frame, making sure the opening for the headrest shaft is aligned properly ( Fig. 34).

Figure 29

Figure 32

Figure 30

Figure 33

Figure 31

Figure 34



Slip the cover just over the top of the frame and foam. Tuck the flap in through the opening in the foam (Fig. 35) and down the back.

Carefully pull the seat cover down the rest of the way, taking care not to pull too much at the seams. Reach in behind the foam and pull the center flap tight, clipping it to the frame.

Remove the clip from inside the headrest shaft, and put the shaft in place to check for alignment of the cover on the foam.

Use a Phillips screwdriver, remove the screws attaching the base cover to the headrest. Pry off staples from the headrest cover using a flat head screwdriver (Fig. 36).

Slip the old headrest cover off by pulling off one end of the cover and then the other. Turn the new headrest cover inside out and hold it in place on top headrest assembly (Fig. 37).

Slowly work cover down over the foam, and over one end. Turn to the other end and pull the cover over until all the way on. Adjust piping and position as necessary.

Pull tight and staple where the old cover was. Attach the headrest base cover as positioned before. Replace headrest into seat by making sure the clip is in position and firmly pushing the shaft back into place.

Adjust the cover accordingly, turn the seat frame upside down, then clip the first layer of vinyl in the back to the frame (Fig. 38).

Turn the seat over on its back, then trim away just the foam backing from the front flaps that cover the seat back foam on each side (Fig. 39).

Apply glue to the back of the vinyl and to the end of the foam. When tacky, fold the vinyl over the end of the foam. Pull the side flaps down and attach them to the frame. Turn the seat on one side, and apply glue to the front vinyl flap and bottom of the seat foam and frame. When tacky, pull taught and glue into place.

Check the alignment of the back and bottom flutes, and pull the flap of vinyl loose to reposition if necessary. Clip a small hole with the scissors to allow for the adjustment handle attachment. Screw the adjustment handle back into place.

Turn the seat over to the back again and pull the black seat release handle to swing the runners away from the frame.

Pull the back of the cover around the release handle and over the frame, and trim away the excess vinyl (Fig. 40). Clip the two vinyl flaps into place.

Turn the seat upright, insert the clip into the headrest shaft and push it into place. Bolt the seats back into the car, and clip in the seat base.

With all of your new interior kit installed, you’re ready to reassemble your car.

Replace the convertible top and the top retainer bar in the same manner as they were removed. Attach the convertible top boot and reconnect your battery.

You did it yourself! Yes, it was work, but the finished job was worth it. Go ahead and smile… you earned it. This is what pride is all about!

"Keep’em On The Road"™ ... With Style !

Figure 35 Figure 38

Figure 36

Figure 39

Figure 37

Figure 40


For Your Information

Wait a minute, you already bought the Complete Interior Kit! Well now you have to make sure that the mechanicals are going to function as terrific as it looks. Your British car has to function as an automobile before it can really be fun. If you have not already taken care of these five steps now is the time to work on the practical restoration of your car. The following plan of attack was formulated over the years and has been synthesized from a multitude of experiences. Subject to debate, true, the following five step guide can help you avoid most of the problems inherent with a car 15 years old or older.

Owning a British car can be a personally rewarding experience, financially beneficial, and more plain fun than any other type of car available. Or it can be a constant source of frustration and irritation. To achieve the former and avoid the latter takes more of an application of common sense than huge sums of money.

The first temptation is to remove all of the chrome and rubber, fill the holes, and paint your dream car that special color lurking in your minds eye. After the third tow bill, second late for work or the last missed party you’ll regret it. Cosmetics are the last step. Oops!

VICTORIA BRITISH LTD. / Long Motor Corporation

© Copyright 1995

Printed In The USA

SG.16 Vol. 1, First Printing. This edition supersedes all previous publications, including prices. All rights are reserved. no part of this publication may be copied, reproduced, stored in any retrieval system, communicated or transmitted in any form or by any means: Photocopying, electronic recording or otherwise, without prior written permission.

Practical Restoration Guide11

1. STOPPInG. Attack the braking as a complete system. If a car is 10 years old or more: Kit all cylinders, turn the drums, replace the shoes and/or pads. 20 years old: Replace all the cylinders where possible with new and do the rest. Don’t forget the clutch and slave cylinder to complete the hydraulics where applicable. Flush out, blow out the system before installing new cylinders or kits and fill with new brake fluid. now both your car and your life are protected. Think about it.

2. Starting and Electrical. number one problem here is getting those little electrics out of the battery and over into the engine. new battery is standard, but the solenoid, regulator, and remanufactured starter and generator conjunctive with plugs, points, condenser, rotor, cap, wire set, and sport coil all installed at the same time will complete the attack on both areas. now whenever you turn the key something should happen.

3. FUEL. All cars have now gone through the fuel crisis and probably are carrying a full complement of crud, corruption, muck, and goo in the tank, lines, and carburetor. If the car is 15 years old or more pull the tank, steam clean and coat the inside with one of those space age chemicals available. Blow out the lines, clean the fuel pump, if electric replace the points, rebuild the carb or carbs and finally install an in line fuel filter. now the electrics can explode the gasics.

4. COOLInG. All British cars overheat, bunk! Back flush the engine and heater core, have a radiator shop clean and core the radiator. Double change the oil and filter, adjust the valves, check the water pump, replace if questionable, replace all hoses, and fan belts and finally research the market and refill with a coolant mixture. now it shouldn’t overheat, leak, or diesel.

5. Everything not discussed thus far comes next. now that your car stops, starts, and runs dependably as an automobile... have fun!

Good Luck and as always..."Keep’em On The Road" ™

✰Exclusive ✰Special Interior Kit For 1973-80 Triumph Spitfire

SG.16 VICTORIA BRITISH LTD.P.O. Box 14991 Lenexa, Kansas 66285-4991

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How-To Install Your Triumph Spitfire Interior BRITISH LTD. / Box 14991 / Lenexa, KS 66285-4991 / 1-800-255-0088 Spitfire Interior Kit Exclusive Special Interior Kits Made In England