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Garment Wet Processing in India: The Road Ahead
India’s share in the apparel sector in the World Trade is marginally over 2%, which is not too exciting. The growth in apparel has been steady but not worth writing home about, in the perspective of India’s price competitiveness in this trade. The rise of regional trade has gradually eroded this competitiveness. One of the primary bottlenecks in India’s clothing chain is the lack of adequate fabric / garment processing capacity of requisite quality standards. While the issue of fabric processing has been debated for long, the area of garment wet processing has started warranting interest only in the near past.
Why this sudden interest in Garment Washing?
Cotton garments have formed a significant part of the apparel export basket from India. Of the total exports, men’s shirts, T-shirts and to some extent skirts and kids garments have a large use of cotton fabric as the substrate. These are not only high growth areas in India’s apparel export portfolio, but also lend themselves to a variety of wet processing options. Further, categories such as trousers, shorts and denim apparel, which internationally are high growth categories (though exports from India herein are presently negligible) and continue to remain high growth in the domestic market too, have wet processing as an integral part of its production program. Thus, one of the prime reasons for garment wet processing sector’s rising importance is its ability to introduce a variety of aesthetic and functional innovations in garment categories, which are otherwise quite standard in its design elements. Separately, recent years have seen a big “pull” factor from overseas buyers in sourcing garments that have a large “wash” factor, due to the fashion trends currently in vogue. Finally, a number of wet processes are being carried out on the garment stage rather than the fabric stage, since this gives a better control element to the garment manufacturer. Even in the domestic RMG segment, casual clothing (which lends itself to wet processing) is increasing its share in the consumer’s wardrobe. Hence, washing which started off initially to pre-shrink garments (prior to reaching the consumer) has come a long way now to provide fashion and functionality elements.
PRESENT STATUS
While the garment sector in general has been traditionally in the unorganized sector, the wet processing sector has been further relegated due to its low importance in the initial years of garment manufacturing in the country. Even till date, garment exporters continue to accord this department lowest priority, which can be seen from the fact that the laundry is either manned by “masters” or on contract basis, unlike other departments.
The wet processing sector in India is highly fragmented – a large number of small sized units scattered across the major garment manufacturing centers. The average size of the units would be around 1000 - 2000 garments per day capacity (enzyme wash cycle), which is by far very low compared to international standards. Garment wet processing capacities even in neighbouring countries are higher than the Indian average.
Infrastructurally, the laundries have been running on machines that are developed indigenously and cater to the basic functions pretty well. However, these equipments lack the sophistication desired for improving wash reproducibility, enhancing efficiencies or boosting productivities.
In the Indian scenario, laundries by and large do not have well laid out systems since these are master-driven, who do have high skill level but a low knowledge level. The information pertaining to wet processing is resident in merely a few individuals, which does not spell well for the industry as a whole. There is lack of wash development updates or courses available and the academic institutes too have chosen to ignore this area till very recently.
On the environmental issue, garment wet processing sector releases large amounts of effluents but is not geared to cater to the effluent treatment requirements – another fallout of being in the small-scale sector.
SWOT Analysis
Strengths Weaknesses Skills
Availability of R.M.
Flexibility
Fabric processing: rub-off
Low knowledge base
Low economies of scale
Low collaborative efforts
Near absence of Systems Opportunities Threats
Growing market (> 20% pa)
Incr. Wash Content
New Finishes–Higher UVR
Differentiating Factor
Technological obsolescence
High Import Tariffs (40-65%)
Attitudinal Issues
Non-Proximity to Markets
GLOBAL TRENDS
Before venturing into action steps, it would be appropriate to highlight the major trends that are impacting the world garment trade in general and the garment-processing sector in particular.
Q International Scale Capacities: The garment wet processing sector is consolidating into large-scale capacities that can leverage the economies of scale and make use of automation and information technology to process quality products at lower costs.
Q Mergers & Acquisitions: The garment industry has seen in the recent past the M&A route being adopted by companies to grow. Increasingly, companies will be making strategic alliances around the globe to deliver better value to the customers at lower cost and ensure access to markets.
Q Collaboration & Partnerships: Internationally, companies are collaborating with both upstream and downstream suppliers to work synergistically with a view to reducing costs through pruning of inventory and lead times, reduction of product development time and cutting down extraneous costs through better product design.
ACTION STEPS
What needs to be done to ensure that Indian garment wet processors use these opportunities available to carve a significant share of export trade? Also, how will the domestic garment brands benefit from the growing opportunities for washed garments?
Based on the global trends mentioned above, and with the backdrop of our current state of affairs in the garment wet processing trade in India, the following four-point action plan is suggested:
Technology – Hardware & Software
There is a need for technological investments in order to ensure that the Indian processors have greater plant efficiencies, improved productivity patterns and better batch-to-batch reproducibility. Investments in I/T will provide for better control on various processes within the laundry. However, the plants should have global capacities in order to be able to invest in state of the art systems. Upfront costs need to be evaluated vis-à-vis operational savings (say in steam, chemicals, etc), productivity improvement, reduced labour, enhanced space and greater reproducibility.
Along with technological investments in hardware, there is an acute need to upgrade the current systems and processes that operate within Indian laundries. In the existing scenario, systems or the lack of it are responsible for chaos and re-work. These not only have implications on costs but also on productivity and overall corporate image of the processor.
Personnel – Managerial & Technical
People are the biggest asset in a number of business environments; and apparel wet processing is no exception to this. It is imperative for industry to start investing in people – not merely masters. Technicians should be trained on fundamentals of fabrics, chemistry and the action on one over the other. Such formal training will form a firm foundation for the individuals, who will then be equipped to handle diverse situations too. In order to enable the industry to have a pool of trained individuals, academic institutes should come forward actively and design courses to suit the industry’s needs. A small beginning has been made in the last year or so, with sporadic workshops being conducted more as refresher courses. Closer industry-academia interaction will go a long way in establishing better trained workforces. Separately, industry interactions by way of seminars and conferences will provide a platform for discussing common issues.
Apart from technical personnel, managerial talent should be bred within this industry. Garment wet processing is an industry by itself and should be treated as an independent profit center, wherein the need for managers is but natural to manage personnel, customers, resources and capital.
Product Design & Development
Garment wet processing is a very good way of going on the Fashion Forward route. In order to be able to capitalize on the fashion cycle, proactive innovations through constant applications R&D would be necessary. Laundries are investing in laboratories to be equipped to do numerous sampling activities, since first-mover advantage will prove a definite edge.
Collaborative Approach
Collaboration within the supply chain in this trade hardly exists. In most situations, the various producing segments in the supply chain have taken adversarial positions thus together remaining weak. Garment processors need to develop partnerships both with suppliers and customers (which could be in-house too in some cases) both within the country as well as with international players overseas. Synergistic working helps in ensuring that laundries upgrade their knowledge base (since best practices are learnt through greater interaction), improve supply chain efficiencies and get better trade and technical terms with suppliers. Equally important is it to closely interact with customers to be able to do first time right.
In in-house laundries, it has been noticed that there is lack of proper coordination between the laundry and other department. This causes production bottlenecks and associated problems. It is important to orient other departments about the importance of laundries and establish proper coordination mechanism of laundry with the production planning, merchandising and pre-washing departments.
If the above issues are taken into account, India would be poised to become a significant force in the world order in the area of garment wet processing.
http://www.maliban.com/wet_processing.htm
WET PROCESSINGMelbourne Textile is the group’s dedicated garment wet processing wing, certified to comply with ISO 9000 and ISO 14000 standards. One of the largest specialists of its kind in Sri Lanka, it has set up a new state-of-the-art unit in Jordan. Processing over 15 million pieces a year, Melbourne is renowned the world over for its expertise in garment dyeing and distinctive finishing.
We push our frontiers imbibing advances in infrastructure, expertise and innovation. With an extensive expansion program in place, we deliver distinctive solutions, exploiting the potential of garment finishing to empower brands.
» Capabilities
Specialized finishes: golf ball wash, destroy wash, stone wash, enzyme wash, bleach, snow wash, all Teflon treatment washes, Perlight wash, wrinkle-free wash, alkali wash, acid wash, sandblasting, lasering, chemical spraying, tinting, scrunching, garment dyeing and curing, sulphur dyeing, reactive dyeing, pigment dyeing, dip dyeing, tie dyeing, whiskering, grinding, scraping, hand sanding, brushing and spraying
Stringent in-house quality management
Value addition: customized solutions for washing, finishing and special effects
» Innovation beyond wet processing
At the very outset, the EAM Maliban Group discovered the potential in wet processing to empower brands. We have steadily built up resources to enhance your garments with refreshing and innovative finishing solutions, creating distinctive finishes for premium labels. As our reputation grows globally, our infrastructure, expertise and innovation help us keep pace with new challenges.
» Resources
Three production units Skilled work force of 700 + Comprehensive wet processing facilities for any intricate effect Fully automated Tonello washers and dryers, laser robots, sandblasting booths, brushing
units Fully equipped research and development laboratory State-of-the-art affluent treatment plant Automated dip dyeing units
In-house process monitoring and inspection systems.» Our HistoryOUR ORGANIZATIONFounded in 1974, the EAM Maliban Group is now one of the largest apparel manufacturing and
wet processing specialists in Sri Lanka. With a strong network that spreads over 13 locations in Sri Lanka and Jordan, the group has over 8,000 employees-the best talent in diverse disciplines from around the globe. The EAM Maliban Group is an entirely private-owned company.
» Our Vision
“To progressively build our strengths and resources proactively to meet the evolving challenges of the global market.”
» Our Mission
“To keep providing a reliable one-stop source for global buyers of world-class woven garments, by harnessing our resources, advanced technology, human expertise and financial stability.”
» Our Values
As we reach for higher goals, we sustain our emphasis on our core values: care and consideration for each customer’s needs; strong ethics in employee relations and human resource development; and commitment to the environment and society. Our foundation is further strengthened by our adherence to these values.
» Our Focus
As the garment world evolves at a rapid pace, we at the EAM Maliban Group are ready to take on challenges ahead. To extend our strong alliance beyond the quota era; to stabilize our global presence to deliver our benefits, wherever our customers are. Our offices in New York and Hong Kong and a new plant in Jordan – with advanced wet processing capabilities – extend our global reach.
Capabilities beyond challenges
Take a glance at our fund of resources, and see how we are geared for our customers' most demanding requirements. As many as thirteen plants, with dedicated lines for specific garment categories: High-specialty machines for intricate wet processing effects. In-house process monitoring and inspection laboratories. Mature professionals in all disciplines, from design to sourcing, production, IT and logistics: a talent pool of the region’s most skilled, imaginative individuals… All the elements of a semi-vertical solution, which brings to our customers globally competitive garments with the total cost efficiency.
We bring to our customers:
Leading-edge technology, innovative processes
Stringent quality standards Comprehensive competence in wet processing Cost-efficient logistics, prompt delivery Vast in-house expertise Semi-vertical capabilities
Total compliance: environmental, employer-employee relations, safety and welfare.» Research and development
Technology and imagination take bold strides at the EAM Maliban Group’s Research and Development Laboratories. Abreast with the latest trends, our fashion designers work closely with technologists and wet processing specialists to create garments with exciting finishes. Aided by state-of-the-art technology, our product development laboratory offers our customers its expertise to explore and extend their imagination.
TECHNOLOGIES
A drive to incorporate the latest global technology helps us achieve the constant demands for innovation.
Our technical team consistently keeps abreast of all breakthroughs in garment manufacturing and wet processing and each of our units stand testimony to this.
Armed with cutting-edge technology, we strive to ensure consistent quality and precision; delivering larger volumes at high speed.
In addition to the advanced equipment employed in the industry, we also have the following specialized machines:
Tajima embroidery, coiling and taping machines Full range of pin-tucking and smocking machines Lectra CAD/CAM systems Laser cutters Fully automated Durkopp Adler serging machines Jic machines for cuff and collar template making Durkopp Adler welt pocket-making machines Durkopp Adler pocket setters Kannegiesser fusing and pressing machines Veit folding machines Fabric sponging machines Fully automated Tonello washers and dryers Tonello laser robots Tupesa garment curing ovens Automated garment counting machines High volume garment dye-print and dip dye machines
Datacolor Spectrophotometer for color matching
PRODUCT RANGE
The EAM Maliban Group is trusted globally for meeting the quality standards of international brands with innovation, precision and speed. We satisfy our customers’ most complex design requirements, delivering the finest garments with dedicated lines in the following categories: Blouses Shirts Trousers/Pants Skirts
ShortsOur production now exceeds 15 million pieces a year in woven garments and 15
million pieces a year in garment wet processing.» Sample development
Our fully equipped sample development department, manned by dedicated, highly-skilled professionals, caters to all design and development needs.
OUR CUSTOMERS
The foundation of our success is in our pledge to maintain quality and reliability. Our biggest assets are our inspired teamwork, the strong dedication of every employee and the constant drive to improve ourselves to serve customers better.
The best brands in the world work with us for superior quality standards, state-of-
the–art facilities, and a strong commitment to timely delivery. Our most precious possessions, however, are our strong customer partnerships nurtured over the last three decades.
Some of our partnerships in garment manufacturing and garment wet processing:
Gap Inc May Department Stores Dilards Department Stores Gloria Vanderbilt Land’s End Langco C&A
Nordstrom
Marks & Spencer Dewhirst Group SR Gent Next Christies’ London Colombia Sportswear LIZ Claiborne
Jones Apparel Group
SOCIAL RESPONSIBILITY» Health & Safety
Driven by the highest values in corporate social responsibility, the EAM Maliban Group gives great impetus to equal opportunity and ethical employment practices. We comply with international labor standards, and our human resources team is committed to providing employees with a healthy, safe and productive work environment.
We believe that it is our primary duty to provide a safe work environment to all our employees. Therefore, we ensure the safety of our employees at all times by taking necessary preventive measures.
Exhaustive programs to monitor and keep our work environment safe have won us the National Safety Award three years in a row, from 2001 to 2003.
» All-round environment protection
Environment protection offers us more opportunities for actively shaping the future. Our environment management system is now geared to achieving ISO 14001 standards.
Our Focus: Conserving energy Curtailing pollutants Reducing waste output Decreasing paper usage Recycling and product lifecycle compliance
Protecting the local environment
http://www.chemicaltechnologiesllc.com/services/design_wetproc.html
GARMENT WET PROCESSINGWet processing is a general term referring to various washing, dyeing and finishing techniques (using water or other liquids) that impart value-added enhancements to textiles.
STEPS TO WET PROCESSINGGarment EvaluationDepth of shade, construction, type of stitches, type of thread, metal in buttons and zippers, warp sizes (starch, PVA), and pocket bags.
PreparationSelection of scouring, bleaching, desizing or various combinations of several preparation
techniques that usually include lubrication, wetting, scouring, chelation, and anti-redeposition products.
Metal ProtectionA chemical coating used to prevent or repair oxidation and corrosion by re-coating buttons, zippers, rivets, studs or any metal accessories that may be damaged during wet processing.
PROCESSESGarment RinseA process done to remove rigidity for consumer comfort.Steps : Desize (to remove all non-fibrous materials added during the slashing process). Soften (to impart the final hand or feel of the garment).
Bleach Down WashA process using sodium hypochlorite, calcium hypochlorite, hydrogen peroxide, or sodium hydrosulfide to remove or reduce the amount of colorant on the fabric.Steps : Desize, Bleach/Neutralize, Soften. Note: Bleaching is a complex process with many issues and variables. Consistency is the key to successful bleaching processes. For more information on issues methods and procedures for bleaching, request Chemical Technologies' Bleaching System Buyer's Guide.
Stone WashProcess used to accelerate the abrasion or fading (color loss) and softening of garments (usually jeans) by using stones in the wet processing cycle. The stones can be natural (pumice) or synthetic. The rock ratio, size, and hardness of the stone are very influential in the look achieved during this step of wet processing.Steps : Desize, Rinse, Stones in wash cycle, Rinse, Clean-up (to remove any dye stuff that has redeposited onto the pockets and/or the abraded area in either the desize or stone wash step), Rinse, Soften, Extract (to enhance the contrast of the white-to-blue abrasion or to modify the hand), Dry.
Enzyme WashA process using cellulase enzymes instead of or in conjunction with stones to achieve a desired abraded effect.Steps : The steps are the same as in stone washing .
Sand BlastingA process using, at one or more steps of wet processing, a sand blasting machine to abrade garments to simulate natural wear patterns. Localized Abrasion - A form of sand blasting (or done through chemicals) for localizing the abraded look on a particular area of the garment.
Garment TintingA special process for adding color to natural, indigo dyed denim and other cellulosic fabrics.
Garment DyeingA process for coloring finished garments sewn in a greige fabric which was prepared in advance to be dyed.
Garment OverdyeingA process for coloring garments which were previously dyed in fabric or garment form.
OTHER AVAILABLE WASHES AND DESCRIPTIONSAged
A form of wet processing that results in an accelerated aged look and softer hand by extending the abrasion cycle until the look is achieved.
Antique WashA finish achieved through sand blasting and washing.
Acid WashA particular look achieved by soaking porous pumice stones in bleach and using their abrasive power to decolorize indigo in a sharp contrast random pattern or overall smoothness.
Authentic or Vintage WashWet process using stones or enzymes with or without bleach for an old worn look.
Super-Stone-WashProlonged stone washing.
Destruction WashAn extended or heavily abraded stone wash with enzymes and bleach that leaves the hems frayed and many nicks on the garments.
THE CHEMICAL TECHNOLOGIES PERFECT-SHAPE™ SYSTEM FOR PRODUCING WRINKLE-RESISTANT KNITS
OBJECTIVETo provide fully integrated systems and procedures for producing superior wrinkle-resistant knits that will delight both the processor and the consumer.
ADVANTAGES OF USING THE CHEMICAL TECHNOLOGIES SYSTEMSSince 1957 Virkler (now Chemical Technologies) has been a leader in garment wet processing, offering these benefits to its customers:
Comprehensive versatile system solutions that are "Always A Step Ahead." Cost effective environmentally friendly products that are consistently dependable. Easy-to-use repeatable systems that readily scale up. Technical Field Support
Fully equipped laboratory support for...
Garment washing Garment dyeing Wrinkle-free finishing Fastness testing Physical testing Environmental testing Analytical chemical testing 48 Hour Problem Solving and 1-800-VIRKLER, Service Hot Line Quality Satisfaction Plus guaranteed results
FOR SHAPE RETENTION AND SHRINKAGE CONTROL ON KNIT GARMENTS AND FABRICS
APPLICATION EQUIPMENT
Conventional Garment Washer/Extractors (such as Braun, Milnor, Unimac, Washex, etc.)Paddle MachinesSuitable Dipping TankSpray TumblerConventional Fabric Pad and Frame
ADVANTAGES OF THE CHEMICAL TECHNOLOGIES PERFECT SHAPE™(Substrate - 100% Cotton Knit Garments And Fabrics)
PerformanceHigh Smoothness Ratings (Typically 3.5+)Low Bursting Strength Loss(Typically less than 30%)Minimal Shade Change Maximum Shrinkage Control (Typically less than 5%)Maximum Garment Shape RetentionCan Provide a Variety of Hand Finishes (From soft to full)Ease of UseCan Be Applied in Most Wet Processing Equipment (Washer-Extractore, Paddle Machines)FlexibilityA Wide Variety of Finishing Auxilliaries Can Be Applied Allowing for a Variety of "Tailor Made" Finishes To Meet Your Customer's NeedsEconomics Low Cure Temperature (290° - 300°F)Short Cure Times (1.5 - 10 minutes)Save Energy and Time Without Comprimising PerformanceSpecialty Products For The Perfect-Shape™ System
VIRCO CATALYST MXThis product is a buffered accelerator to be used with VIRCO PERMAFINISH L-469 on specialty cellulosics.Outstanding Features:Buffered to reduce fabric strength loss. Especially recommended for use on 100% linen and other fabrics where strength retention is critical . Easy to use liquid product. Recommended usage level is 25% on weight of resin.
VIRCOFINISH 789 Anionic This product is a specialty finish designed to add strength to durable press resin-treated fabrics and garments while maintaining a soft hand. Outstanding Features:Aids in stabilizing woven and knit fabrics and prevents distortion. Highly effective tensile strength additive for durable press resin-treated fabrics. Provides a soft, durable hand. Compatible with other resin finishing components.
VIRCOPON PP-569This product is an effective wetter/formaldehyde scavenging product used in conjunction with the CHEMICAL TECHNOLOGIES PERFECT-SHAPE™ System.Outstanding Features:Provides optimum wetting. Reduces free formaldehyde levels within PERFECT-SHAPE™ treated goods. Reduces tensile and tear strength loss due to resin finishing. Compatible with the PERFECT-SHAPE™ System. Biodegradable. Alkylphenol ethoxylate-free. Can be applied by continuous and garment methods. No adverse effects on other fabric properties (i.e. whiteness or fabric stabilization).
http://www.snaimpex.com/Laundry.htm
Basics of a Good Washing Unit Today world over the garment processing area has undergone dramatic changes in terms of technology though garment processing in India is yet to get recognition due to low technology level. Lack of standardization in terms of washing techniques, manpower employed, callousness in following wash recipes results in poor quality and recurring problems.
In processing industry, efficiency counts more than reputation. It is a sheer science and thereby delicate also. Employees are dealing with chemicals, temperature, pH, level of water etc. before entering in these activities, one should have very sound scientific knowledge. Processing units are scientific entities than marketing entities.
The basic criteria of an efficient washing unit are quality control, purchasing of good chemicals from reputed companies to avoid difficulties in processing, appropriate machinery and skillful operators.
Scenario of the Unorganized Sector
These findings are based on the survey conducted over 20 units that are involved in denim wet processing;
1. Capacity : 1000-2000 garments per day. 2. No. of permanent Employees : 15-203. Educational Qualification : Maxm. upto Class X4. Establishment : 4-6 yrs old.5. Training opportunities : Nil.6. No. of Machines : 2-37. Machine type : Local8. RPM : No awareness9. Units having Boiler facility : 25% 10. Units having LPG Facility : 75%11. Units with Hydro Extractor : 80%12. Units with Tumble Dryers : 70% 13. Process Control Parameters a. Temp. (Thermometer) : 40% b. pH indicator : 55% c. Water level indicator : 0% d. Dosage of chemicals : No system e. Supplier status : Too many, small and local
Lot needs to be done for the up-gradation of unorganized processing units.
Financial Constraints of Contract Washers
The process industry is the worst sufferer of payment problems. Contract washers have to run from pillar to post to collect the payments. Credit period generally varies from 3-6 months and sometimes even runs to bad debt. Moreover too many job workers are vying for the share. This big gap deepens the problem for contract washers as brand owners very well utilize shifting
tactics to prolong the credit period with the former washer. This has in turn negative inductive affect on other important areas of business e.g. payments to suppliers, daily operating expenses, regular business , etc .
Common Problems In Denim Wet Processing
Shade variation in production lots This problem may occur due to following reasons :
=>Usage of different lots and quality of fabrics =>Inconsistent wash process in terms of, - Inconsistent water levels used - Inconsistent enzyme dosage - Inconsistency in chemicals used - Inconsistency in running time for different lots - Inconsistent in ph of bath
Shade Variation in Production Lot from the SampleThis occurs when sampling is done using only few garments, instead of a lot size. Thus it's difficult to fix up the right recipe for production lots.
Damage to the Garments During Wet ProcessingDamage to the embroidery, stitches or the trims used are the common problems. This can be due to poor sourcing of trims. Other reason for this can be vigorous action of the stone employed during washing.
Streaks and BlotchesThese can occur due to poor desizing, improper wetting and lubrication of the garments. Another factor can be overloading of the garments.
BackstainingIn order to achieve the desire colour contrast during the stone washing process, it is important to minimize the re-deposition of the blue indigo or the backstaining on the garment.
Backstaining increases with increase in temperature and decrease in pH. Since acid cellulases work at a pH of 4.5 and temperature 58C, backstaining is more with such enzymes. Neutral cellulases are preferred when high contrast and low backstaining is required.
There is a need for technological investments in order to ensure that the processors have greater plant efficiencies, improved productivity patterns and better batch-to-batch reproducibility. While most of the players find current level of technology sufficient for existence and current growth a long term view needs to be taken while evaluating technological options to compete for the global market.
With technological investments in hardware, if the above considerations are taken into account the unorganized job work would poised to become a significant force in the garment wet processing sector.
S&A Technical Sales Team, In association with: Ms. Saroj Bala, Faculty, Pearl Academy of FashionsMs. Taru Verma, Student, Pearl Academy of Fashions
Chemical Processing of Textiles-Ecological Aspects
There is a general impression that technology is causing pollution and is responsible for the bad state of environment. In this process, it is conveniently forgotten that the same technology is responsible and vital for the development. Is it not a historic fact that the environment started degrading ever since the living systems originated on the earth? The degradation is a natural consequence of the existing interacting ecosystem. However, the degradation can be minimized if not only prevented.
In recent years, everybody is aware of the significance of maintaining a good and clear environment for a better life style. The problem of pollution is felt air, water and noise from the surroundings. In fact, water and air are the fundamental media in which life exists. Major industries responsible for water pollution are textiles, fermentation, chemical, distilleries, tanneries, petrochemicals, nuclear plants etc. Textile mills discharge large quantities of effluents, which are composed of various pollutants. An average sized textile mill having daily cloth production of about 8000 kg discharges about one million litres of effluents per day. Before discharging into public sewers or surface water or on the open land, it needs to be treated to certain tolerable limits.
CHARACTERISTICS OF EFFLUENTS
Desizing
Cloth is treated with aqueous solutions of enzymes and wetting agents for removal of sizing materials which are unwanted for subsequent processes. Significant characteristics of the effluents of this process are
1. High biological oxygen demand (BOD)
2. High total dissolved solids (TDS)
3. pH around 7, and
4. Some suspended solids in colloidal form.
Scouring and Bleaching
About 38% of the total water used in mill is consumed in this section using kiers and continuous bleaching range such asJ-box. Characteristics of effluents discharged are
1. High BOD ppm - 2500-3500
2. High temperature (70°C - 80°C)
3. High pH (10-12)
4. High cations (sodium ions)
5. High total solids. mg/l, or ppm - 12000-30000, and
6. Suspended solids, mg/l, or ppm - 1000-2000.
Mercerization
In this process textile goods under tension are treated with a concentrated solution of caustic soda at fairly low temperature to impart permanent luster and strength to the fibre or fabric. Effluents do not generally exhibit very high dissolved solids and the main characteristics are as follows:
pH : 8 - 10
TDS (mg/l) : 2000 - 2600
Suspended solids (mg/l) : 100 - 400
BOD : 50 - 120
Chlorides (mg/l) : 350 - 700
Sulphates : 100 - 350
Sodium ions : 600 - 1300
Dyeing and Printing
Water consumed in printing of textiles is about 8% and 16% in dyeing of textiles of the total, or 30-60 l/kg of substrate.
Characteristics of effluents are as follows:
Dyeing Printing
TDS (mg/l) : 1500 - 4000 1500 - 2500
Suspended solids (mg/l) : 60 - 400 50 - 350
BOD (mg/l) : 100 - 400 150 - 300
Other Allied Processes
One such process is water treatment. Normally, ion-exchange process is employed. The chemicals used for ion exchange regeneration of resins are sodium chloride and sometimes an acid. The effluents here contain demineralization process. Though the proportion of effluents is comparatively small, it can influence during the discharge on open irrigation lands because of high salinity. Another plant discharging effluents is the boiler through blow-down. The effluents from boiler blow-down have high
temperature(70°C - 80°C) and ph (10-11), high cations and high dissolved solids (500-10000 ppm).
Minimizing the Pollution Load
This can be done by equalization. It is essential to hold the effluents for long durations, so that, equalization of each characteristic is achieved by adequate mixing. Equalization will also bring about self neutralization of different streams like mixing alkaline effluent from mercerization with acidic one from carbonizing section and mixing highly concentrated stream with dilute stream to reduce the concentration of pollutants in the composite stream.
Recovery of by Products
The effluent load can be considerably reduced if some of the polluting chemicals present can be recovered, e.g., recovery of caustic soda from the mercerization waste, dyes from waste dye liquors by dialysis, reverse osmosis and other techniques as adopted abroad.
Process Changes
Sometimes changes in the processes can reduce the pollution appreciably, e.g., use of CMC and polyvinyl alcohol in place of starch in sizing of cloth reduces BOD load considerably. Use of mineral acids in place of enzymes in desizing will not exert BOD, and lower the pH. Use of mineral acids instead of acetic acid in dyeing or non biodegradable detergent in place of soap reduces the BOD. However such changes are related to their economic viability.
Prevention of Loss of Chemicals
Spillages and leakages, contributing substantially to the pollution, should be prevented.
Segregation
It is desirable to segregate waste streams containing highly toxic or harmful chemicals from the other streams and treat them separately, e.g., dye liquors from dyeing section can be separately treated by coagulation and/or adsorbents to remove their BOD and colouring impurities before mixing with the composite stream.
http://www.freshtex.com/internet_e/statement.html
Our philosophy and goals.
The Alt Group stands for trend-setting services, creative design and exemplary environmental protection. Our approach towards the future can be summed up in eight statements:
The customer an his real needs are the focus of our thinking an acting. Respect an full backup to all our employees, equal where they are from. Get market leadership by highest quality and innovative products - wherever
Ongoing upgrade of our service range and service quality
Looking for the best tradeoff between progress, efficiency and pollution free processing
Result- and profit-oriented teamwork whole over the company.
Loyale relationship with our business partners
Really open and honest communication
The new service generation: Apparel.
Try out Freshtex Apparel and experience a new service feeling. We provide a full-package offering, meaning that we will develop, produce and deliver the entire product in close collaboration with you – from creative design and innovative product development to complete procurement, complex production and perfect logistics.
One of the main advantages for you is that you can achieve a further reduction in your vertical range of development and production. Such fashion outsourcing will enable you to enjoy maximum flexibility with regard to competition and benefit from a clear increase in efficiency.So make the most of our expertise and professional structures! We are at your disposal as a reliable, experienced service provider with a global network.
FRESHTEX APPAREL SERVICE.AT A GLANCE:
Procurement........................................................................................................ We can help you source fashionable and attractive materials – on a global scale, comprehensively and speedily. It goes without saying that we will also procure items from your existing vendors in line with your particular specifications.
Tailoring........................................................................................................ We can tailor products on our own premises or in external facilities based on your designs. Alternatively, we can tailor products based on our own suggestions. In addition, we can create prototypes as well as duplicate or produce various items.
Washing and finishing........................................................................................................ You will benefit from our garment finishing expertise. We are able to present all fashionable washing and dyeing variants – either following your specifications or based on our own suggestions as required.
Shipping........................................................................................................ Following in-depth quality inspection we will pick and dispatch your goods in accordance with your requirements – reliably and punctually.
Discover creativity – worldwide.
Try out Freshtex and discover the possibilities! You will find us in the world’s fashion centers – in Los Angeles, Verona and Hong Kong – where our product managers frequently develop new, creative and fashionable washing processes, dyes and authentic effects. So come and see everything that can be done with various types of fabric, such as denim, cotton, synthetics or wool. In collaboration with international designers we will present you with up-to-the-minute fashion in sympathy with the top zeitgeist.
Naturally, we also carry out creative work at our numerous branches round the globe. You can see our ideas in our CORE collections as we introduce our developments to an international audience four times a year. You can find us at trade fairs or in our showrooms, and we would also be delighted to come to you. We can provide you with individual, exclusive consulting services regarding everything to do with your collection. Moreover, we can also put the ideas for your collection into practice. As you see, we will do everything possible for your success!
