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Ford Super Duty Rear Brake Pad & Rotor Replacement 2004 F250 4x4 XLT Sport Crew Cab Back to 2004 F250 Main Page Click Here for a PDF version of this article *** NOTE *** Some of you may remember my first article about working on the rear brakes. This was from 2009 when I replaced my front brakes & ball joints . Back then, my rear rotors were fine and I only replaced the pads. Fast forward three years and 30k miles and its time for rear rotors. So, I updated this article accordingly. Some of the pictures below are re-used from the original article, as denoted in the caption. Here's the new pads this go-round. Motorcraft part number 2U2Z-2V200-FB Page 1 of 31 2004 F250 Rear Brake Pad Replacement 4/18/2012 http://www.frontiernet.net/~jmray/F250RearBrakes.htm

Ford Super Duty Rear Brake Pad & Rotor Replacementfrontiernet.net/~jcray/04F250/pdfs/F250RearBrakes.pdfFord Super Duty Rear Brake Pad & Rotor Replacement 2004 F250 4x4 XLT Sport Crew

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Page 1: Ford Super Duty Rear Brake Pad & Rotor Replacementfrontiernet.net/~jcray/04F250/pdfs/F250RearBrakes.pdfFord Super Duty Rear Brake Pad & Rotor Replacement 2004 F250 4x4 XLT Sport Crew

Ford Super Duty

Rear Brake Pad & Rotor Replacement

2004 F250 4x4 XLT Sport Crew Cab

Back to 2004 F250 Main Page

Click Here for a PDF version of this article

*** NOTE *** Some of you may remember my first article about working on the rear brakes. This was from 2009 when I

replaced my front brakes & ball joints. Back then, my rear rotors were fine and I only replaced the pads. Fast forward three

years and 30k miles and its time for rear rotors. So, I updated this article accordingly. Some of the pictures below are re-used

from the original article, as denoted in the caption.

Here's the new pads this go-round. Motorcraft part number 2U2Z-2V200-FB

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And here are the new rotors. Both are Motorcraft part number 1C3Z-1V125-DA. I had always planned to go with Powerslot

Cryos on the rear like I have on the front, but I couldn't justify the cost difference between those and OEM rotors on the rear.

Time will tell if this was a mistake.

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Now on to the procedure...

First thing to do is to remove one of the rear tires. I started with the driver's side. Be sure to chock the front wheels and put a

jackstand somewhere under the rear.

(pic from 2009)

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Next, remove the two 12mm bolts that attach the caliper to the bracket.

(pic from 2009)

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(pic from 2009)

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Then, pry the bracket away from the rotor. If its real tight, you might need to use a c-clamp or another method to slightly

compress the caliper pistons to relieve a little pressure. I was able to pry mine off with ease. Either tie up the caliper to the

springs or place it on something like a milk crate to keep from damaging the brake hose.

(pic from 2009)

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Remove the two bolts that attach the caliper bracket.

(pic from 2009)

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(pic from 2009)

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Here's what the rear rotors looked like. Quite a bit of wear on the outer surface, even more on the inner.

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Next, remove the rotor. This will likely take some persuasion with a hammer. Since I was replacing the rotors, I didn't mind

wailing away on it with a large metal ball pein. However, if you're planning to have them turned, you should use a rubber

mallet or a block of wood with the metal hammer.

My parking brake assembly looked fine so I didn't bother replacing it.

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Here's the wear on the rotor.

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Here's the rear rotor.

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Next, install the new rotor.

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Grease the slide pins on the caliper bracket and install the new clips that came with the pads.

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Re-install the caliper bracket with the two large bolts. Note that I ran a couple lug nuts on to hold the rotor in place while

installing the caliper, bracket, and pads.

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Install the two brake pads. I put a little caliper grease on the contact points, after taking this pic.

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Use a large c-clamp and one of the old pads to compress the caliper pistons. Otherwise it won't fit over the new pads.

(pic from 2009)

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Re-install the caliper with the two bolts that hold it to the bracket.

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Driver's side done!

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Remove the jackstand, the two lug nuts, reinstall the wheel and tire, repeat this process on the passenger side, remove the tire

chocks, and you're done.

Bed-in the new pads as described on the Hawk box...

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Questions or Comments? Email [email protected]

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