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"Food, Fun & Folks!" - Special Holiday Edition 2010

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2 FOOD, FUN & FOLKS Magazine : : Holidays 2010 Southern Illinois Foodways & Foodlore

eason’s greetings from the staff and volunteers of the Carbondale Convention & Tourism Bureau. We hope

this mailing finds you enjoying the holiday season with your family and friends.

You’ll find that this special issue of our favorite little magazine is somewhat different than the others. I gave the writers the latitude of being more personal in their writing style. You’ll notice that in our stories, as we introduce you to members of our families and our closest friends. We’ve written about some behind the scenes people, too, that influence our world of food and fun. You’ll meet the cake decorator that makes weddings and holidays more special; the sweet potato man that is enjoying retirement while teaching us how to enjoy sweet potatoes; and a beautiful friend who recreated a childhood memory and makes certain that none of her friends spend Christmas Day alone. These folks epitomize Southern Illinois.

This issue is filled with stories about holiday traditions … where they come from and what they mean. Perhaps at no other time of the year do we realize just what a melting pot our region actually is. So many cultures are represented on the holiday dinner tables in Southern Illinois. From French pastries to Italian sausages – German spiced hams to heaps of tamales in zesty tomato sauce – the twelve-course Polish Wiglia to simple, soft Irish scones – we lay out holiday traditional foods in big, big ways!

Don’t hesitate to visit Southern Illinois during winter months. Our museums and theaters are warm inside. Our wineries and restaurants are more than comfortable, and our hotels, B&Bs and cabins are downright cozy. You can find information about our events and attractions on our websites, but we’d be happy to talk with you on the phone to help you plan your next trip home to Carbondale and Southern Illinois!

Warmest Holiday Greetings,

Debbie MooreExecutive DirectorCarbondale Convention & Tourism Bureau

S

Debbie Moore

‘I’ve got the inside scoop.’

Debbie MooreExecutive Director :: Carbondale Convention & Tourism Bureau

Debbie’s Dish

FOOD, FUN & FOLKS Magazine : : Holidays 2010 3www.cctb.org : : www.foodfunfolks.com

Contents

Recipes in this issue

Quarterly MagazineHolidays 2010

Food, Fun & Folks is a quarterly magazine published by the Carbondale Convention & Tourism Bureau

For information regarding this publication or the information contained in the publication, contact

Debbie Moore, Executive DirectorCarbondale Convention & Tourism Bureau

1185 East Main, Suite 1046Carbondale, Illinois 62901

(618) 529-4451 or (800) 526-1500Visit our websites at www.cctb.org

or www.foodfunfolks.com

©2010 Carbondale Convention & Tourism Bureau

Publisher

Content Coordinators

Graphic Design

Contributors

Debbie Moore, CDMECarbondale Convention & Tourism Bureau Executive Director

Stephanie RhodesBloomin’ CommunicationsNicole L. Davis, PhDSouthern Illinois University Carbondale Hospitality & Tourism Administration Program

Rhonda M. EthridgeThe Southern Illinoisan Newspaper

Devon Clifford Sales Manager, CCTB Jackson County Historical Society Mary Mechler CCTB Board Member National Park ServiceThe Southern IllinoisanCity of Carbondale Historical Archives

:: Holidays 2010

On the coverFor the Mexican Wedding Cakes recipe, visit www.foodfunfolks.com.Photo by : : Debbie MOOre

Warm your Wine 4When the owners of the first three Southern Illinois wineries met in my office one summer morning in 1995 to discuss the formation of a wine trail, I never dreamed how big our trail would become. Local wine is always on my table and I serve it all the time. I enjoy sharing hot wine beverages with family and friends.

Do you dress or stuff? 18When I asked my friends if they ‘stuff’ or ‘dress’ their holiday turkeys, Sue Whitlock was quick to respond. She told me that she doesn’t ‘stuff’ anymore! Sue makes a big pan of oyster dressing, and it didn’t surprise me when she said she had to stop and think about the recipe.

Peacocks on the table 8Have you ever wondered why peacock feathers are such a popular decoration for holiday centerpieces and Christmas trees? The answer comes with the history of holiday dinners. In Medieval times, peacocks with their full plumage were often the bird of fare on the celebratory tables of the Royals.

Starview viNeyarD’S MULLeD reD GiaNt : : Page 5

rOaSteD CaNaDa GOOSe : : Page 9

rOaSt PheaSaNtS : : Page 9

hONey OraNGe rOaSteD DUCK : : Page 9

POMONa wiNery’S MULLeD OrCharD SPiCe : : Page 5

eaSieSt ever CheeSe baLLS : : Page 21

Sweet POtatO hUMMUS : : Page 11

SwiSS CharD aND Sweet POtatO GratiN : : Page 11

GraNDMa’S PiNeaPPLe & CheeSe : : Page 17

aLtO viNeyarDS MULLeD SaNGria : : Page 5

SUe’S OySter DreSSiNG : : Page 19

waLDOrF SaLaD – reNDLeMaN’S StyLe : : Page 23

4 FOOD, FUN & FOLKS Magazine : : Holidays 2010 Southern Illinois Foodways & Foodlore

WineWarm your When the owners of the first three Southern

Illinois wineries met in my office one summer morning in 1995 to discuss the formation of a wine trail, I never dreamed how big our trail would become. I also never dreamed that hundreds of thousands of people – residents and visitors alike – would grow to love the local wine as much as I do. Local wine is always on my table and over the years, I’ve developed lots of recipes that taste better because they include local wine. I serve it all the time and in the winter months, I enjoy sharing hot wine beverages with family and friends. Hints for really good hot wine drinks: Never let the wine boil and don’t let it simmer for too long. A crock pot is a good method of heating the wine, but turn it off after the wine comes to a good drinking temperature (after a couple of hours). If you like a sweet drink, add a little honey or Agave syrup to the mixture. A pat of sweet butter dropped on top of a steaming hot wine drink is a nice addition. Garnishes are everything, so float a strawberry in your drink, add a slice of citrus or a wedge of apple and a cinnamon stick.

By Debbie Moore : :

’ve been drinking Southern Illinois wine since I was a child! Yes, I have. My German Grandfather Schuster made good concord wine and because he taught his grandchildren how to help him decant the wine from the big casks that resided along his

basement wall … his grandchildren also knew how to sneak a drink from time to time. Grandma loved grape soda pop and always had a carton of empty bottles on the back porch. It was amazing how much that homemade wine looked like grape soda. We’d put a little in the empty soda bottles and sneak up the basement steps and out the back door. I’m sure everyone knew what we were doing, but we thought we were big stuff.

Ifor Winter

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Need more information?For a complete list of Southern Illinois wineries, visit www.foodfunfolks.com

Southern Illinois Strawberries in the fall? The month of May is when Flamm Orchards generally kicks off strawberry season. In an experiment, Flamm’s planted a day neutral ever-bearing strawberry, called Albion. Albion berries bear fruit from June into the fall. The berries in this photo were harvested in October, the day before our special photo shoot!

Alto Vineyards Mulled SangriaIn a crock pot, combine 1 bottle of Alto Nona Mia Sangria, 2 cups of good brandy, 2 cups of white grape juice and a couple cinnamon sticks. Add a cup of strawberries, a cup of cherries, slices of an orange, lemon and lime and let all this simmer until warm. Just before serving, add 1 Tablespoon of almond extract.

Starview Vineyard’s Mulled Red Giant

Red Giant is a new wine, released in December 2009. Starview’s description of this wonderful wine simply says, “Red Giant has wonderful tannin structure and flavors of raspberry and liquorice. Ethereal aromas of powdery anise cookie,

sandalwood incense, mulberries, grape juice, and fried green tomatoes follow through on a satiny entry to a fruity-yet-dry medium-to-full body with great depth and a nice array of cardamom, bay leaf, lime leaf, and cinnamon stick spices on the long, sangria-like finish.” Does that make your mouth water?

Combine a bottle of Red Giant with a cup of raspberry liqueur, a sliced orange, lemon and lime and 1 cup of fresh raspberries. Add a couple cinnamon sticks, a few star anise and just before serving, add a Tablespoon of vanilla extract. Simmer for a couple hours in a crock pot and serve this with a cinnamon stick stirrer.

Pomona Winery’s Mulled Orchard SpiceCombine a bottle of Pomona Winery’s Orchard Spice wine with 1 cup of apple brandy. Simmer with 2 big cinnamon sticks, sliced oranges, an apple cut in wedges and a vanilla bean. How easy is that?

good stuff

To order a wintertime supply of these wines, visit each winery’s website! www.altovineyards.netwww.pomonawinery.comwww.starviewvineyards.com

Want more?

6 FOOD, FUN & FOLKS Magazine : : Holidays 2010 Southern Illinois Foodways & Foodlore

hen Kim Emery started decorating wedding cakes at Larry’s House of Cakes in Marion, she never imagined that it was the beginning of something that would be so popular among customers. At the time, she was working

only part-time at the bakery. Several years prior to working at the bakery, Kim completed a

cake decorating course offered by Shawnee Community College. Upon completing the course, she started developing her skills and passion through decorating cakes at home for her family and friends – and for fun.

For the past seven years, Kim has worked at the bakery fine tuning her talents and skills with the guidance of the bakery owner – Larry Clayton. Larry, who started the business in 1963, first opened a donut shop in Marion. In the beginning when Kim went to work for Larry, the bakery did not fill orders for wedding

cakes. Kim approached Larry with the idea that she could use her experience to design and decorate

wedding cakes. She proposed that she would assume the responsibility for appointments

with customers, handle decorating and delivery, if the bakery would prepare the cakes for her to decorate.

Over time, Kim has become a better decorator through a growing number of orders and challenging designs, along

with tips and guidance from Larry. Through the years, wedding cake demand has increased and so has

the popularity of specialty cakes for all occasions.

Kim attributes the growing demand for specialty cakes to the popularity

of “reality” and “challenge” television shows such as “Cake Boss” and “Ace

of Cakes”. With busy families and more moms working outside the home, many

people look to Larry’s and Kim to make birthdays and celebrations

memorable with a special cake and other sweet treats

from the bakery. “The challenges of shaped cakes and

working with new mediums such as

WBy Stephanie Rhodes : :

Up Close withKim emeryThe Queen

of Cakes

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fondant keep me on my toes,” Kim says.

In Fall 2009, Larry’s expanded and opened an additional bakery in Carbondale, located in Murdale Shopping Center. As the business has grown, so has Kim’s role at the bakery. She meets with brides in the Carbondale store and works there full-time as a senior staff member helping with decisions in the store and focusing on her next cake challenge.

With the business expanding to a Carbondale store, so have the

opportunities for new decorators. Kim mentors new decorators that help make her job easier. New decorators also raise the level of creativity to take on new cake challenges. Currently, there are two employees working as interns at the bakery as they work toward degrees in culinary arts.

When asked about her favorite part of the job, Kim shared that she feels good when she can contribute to making an event great and memorable with a special cake.

Up Close withKim emery

The Yule log - back in timeThe Christmas cake, Buche de Noel, is thought to be a French

tradition that emerged when Napoleon proclaimed that the houses in Paris had to keep their chimneys closed during the winter because the cool air caused medical problems. As a result, the Parisian bakers created this symbolic substitute in cake – for the Yule log that families would burn in celebration of Christmas. Kim’s rendition of this popular dessert is beautiful!

The French were the earliest (1673) Europeans to settle in Southern Illinois on both sides – the Mississippi River and the Wabash and Ohio Rivers. Still celebrated as a French Colonial District, a 50-mile strip of land stretching from Chester to Cahokia on the western edge of the southern region is home to important historic sites. Fort de Chartres and Fort Kaskaskia are popular attractions hosting several special events each year. For additional information, visit www.ftdechartres.com.

Larry’s House of Cakes In Carbondale: Murdale Shopping Center, 1807 W. Main St.Phone: 618-519-9378

In Marion: 905 S. Court St.Phone: 618-993-3906

Both locations are open Monday through Saturday from 6:00am to 6:00pmwww.larryshouseofcakes.com

Larry’s House of Cakes has earned a great reputation through the years with their sweet treats, especially their Italian Crème cake and pink iced sugar cookies. Larry’s offers a full menu of cakes, both custom-decorated and all-occasion cakes in several flavors, cupcakes in even more flavors, donuts, cookies, pastries and scones.

Need more information?

8 FOOD, FUN & FOLKS Magazine : : Holidays 2010 Southern Illinois Foodways & Foodlore

on the table!Peacocks

FOOD, FUN & FOLKS Magazine : : Holidays 2010 9www.cctb.org : : www.foodfunfolks.com

ave you ever wondered why peacock feathers are such a popular decoration for holiday centerpieces and Christmas trees? The answer comes with the history of holiday dinners. In Medieval times, peacocks with their full plumage were often the bird of fare on the celebratory tables of the Royals. The skin and feathers were removed in a single piece; the bird roasted; the skin and plumage put back around the body of the bird. As you

can imagine, the presentation parade of the meal would have been one glorious scene. No, you won’t find a peacock on a Southern Illinois holiday dinner table. However, it is quite common to find wild

fowl. Thousands of Canada geese winter in Southern Illinois. Pheasant, ducks and Canada geese are frequent guests for Christmas dinner.

HBy Debbie Moore : :

Roasted Canada GooseSoak the goose overnight in strong salt water; add 1 Tablespoon of vinegar to the salt water. Wipe the goose dry, then rub it with butter and sprinkle it with salt and pepper. Place an apple, a potato and an onion inside the goose. Cover it and bake at 325 degrees for 1 hour and 15 minutes, or until the internal temperature reaches 165 degrees (the bigger the bird the longer it takes). Remove the apple and vegetables before serving.

Honey Orange Roasted Duck1 duck, approximately 5 pounds2 oranges1 onionSalt and pepper

Glaze:¼ cup honeyJuice and zest from an orange2 Tablespoons balsamic vinegar1 teaspoon garlic paste¼ teaspoon coriander seeds

Ducks, wild or domestic, are frequently very fatty, so the process of piercing the skin is important for two reasons in this recipe: It lets the grease out and the flavor in. Duck fat is good to use for braising greens or sautéing vegetables, so you might want to keep it. Store it in the refrigerator for short periods of time, or freeze it for use at a later time.

With a skewer, pierce the skin of the duck all over. Stuff the inside with 1 or 2 quartered oranges and a quartered onion (leave the peels on all). Roast the duck at 300 degrees for 3 hours, but take it out of the oven every hour and prick the skin again. (This seems like lots of trouble, but it is well worth the effort.)Make a glaze by combining the honey, juice and zest of the orange, vinegar, garlic and coriander seeds. Gently simmer this for 5 minutes, then let it cool to room temperature.

After 3 hours of roasting, remove the duck from the oven and pour all the excess fat from the bottom of the pan. Return the duck to the oven at 450 degrees for 15 to 30 minutes, until the skin browns. Remove it and let it rest for at least 10 minutes before serving, brushing the glaze over the duck several times. Serve remaining glaze with the duck.

good stuff

Roast Pheasants3 pheasants5 shallots, sliced1 stick of butter½ cup brandy2 cups chicken stock½ teaspoon salt

¼ teaspoon pepper1 bay leaf1 sprig of rosemaryBacon slices as needed2 cups half and half¼ cup horseradish

In a heavy roasting pan, sauté the shallots in the butter until they begin to brown. Add the pheasants and brown them, turning frequently. Pour the brandy into the pan and flame it. When the flames subside, add the chicken stock, salt and pepper, bay leaf and rosemary. Lay bacon strips over the breasts of the pheasants. Roast the birds at 350 degrees for 45 minutes to an hour, until the internal temperature reaches 165 degrees. Add the cream and horseradish to the pan juices and continue roasting the bird for 10 minutes, basting it with the creamy sauce several times. Serve the sauce as you would serve gravy.

10 FOOD, FUN & FOLKS Magazine : : Holidays 2010 Southern Illinois Foodways & Foodlore

s Donald Miller carries on his father’s tradition of growing sweet potatoes, he is also learning to grow better sweet potatoes and feed more Southern Illinoisans than he ever imagined. Home gardening had always been a part of Donald’s life while growing

up, but with an increased demand in local food products, he has been able to take his garden to a whole new level.

His father, too, was a gardener and raised food for his family. He would grow enough vegetables to “put up” for the winter, and even saved seeds and slips for the next year’s planting. In those days, there was no internet and little access to research and information to know how to improve planting and plant performance. Today, for Donald Miller, this is not the case.

“The internet has been very helpful,” says Donald, “and I have learned quickly about where to go for expertise in growing sweet

potatoes and what research is going on with the plants.” He also finds the Southern Illinois agriculture community

to be helpful, too, as farmers share their experiences and connections to improve products and reach new

markets. As the good word has spread about Miller’s sweet

potatoes, so has the demand for them. In 2010, he sold 150 bushels to local retailers and other outlets, including Southern Illinois University Dining Service for student

dining, Arnold’s Market and the Neighborhood Co-op in Carbondale, markets in Carterville, Cobden, Goreville

and the surrounding area. In addition to the product he sells, he also grows seed for the next year. Miller also

makes sure family and friends are supplied with sweet potatoes. A local school –

Lewis School in Carbondale – visits his farm every other year to learn about sweet potatoes and dig them to take

home. “For some kids,” he says, “this

is the first time they are learning about where sweet potatoes really come from.”

His success and green thumb have not come without challenges as the potatoes are susceptible to viruses and pests like worms and

deer. He maintains a chemical-free operation and has learned

ABy Stephanie Rhodes : :

Up Close withDonald Miller

Carrying on a Sweet Tradition

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tricks over time to minimize the effects of pests – like fencing the plants to keep out deer and rotating fields and planting cover crops to improve the soil conditions.

Retirement only means Donald has more time to do the work he loves. Four year ago, he retired from a career in masonry. Among hunting and chasing after grandkids, he now tends to nearly 6,000 sweet potato plants on his farm near Carbondale. His garden grows in size and plant variety every year as he adds a few more things, but only things he loves to eat! While he has many favorite recipes using sweet potatoes, he says the best are still the simple ones. “I love them grilled or baked,” he says.

Next year, Miller plans to grow more potatoes and continue to improve his crop. There is little rest in his retirement, for sure. But, he loves the work he does and we, in Southern Illinois, sure do enjoy his sweet potatoes.

Up Close withDonald Miller

Carrying on a Sweet Tradition

‘I love them grilled or baked.’

Donald Miller Sweet Potato Hummus1 large sweet potato1 15-ounce can dark red kidney beansZest and juice of one lemonZest and juice of one orange1 teaspoon cumin powder¼ teaspoon chipotle pepper powder

¼ teaspoon cayenne pepper½ teaspoon black pepper1 teaspoon salt3 Tablespoons brown sugar1 Tablespoon olive oil3 Tablespoons tahini

Microwave the sweet potato until soft. When the potato is cool, peel and cube it. Place the sweet potato and all the other ingredients in a food processer and blend until smooth. Serve with pita bread and crudités.

Back in timeAs a Southern Illinois farm girl transplanted in

Georgia for a short time, I was determined to learn the ways of a proper southern lady and how to cook like one, too. I met a sweet potato farmer in South Georgia who sold me a bushel of sweet potatoes. What single girl in Atlanta needed a bushel of sweet potatoes? I did. How would I ever learn to cook like a southerner if I didn’t buy them?

That was the fall that I prepared a bushel of sweet potatoes in more ways than I could count. It started with sweet potato pie, and then fried (of course), candied, then in biscuits, and the list goes on. I even made sweet potato butter!

Meeting Mr. Miller was a real treat and took me back to my days with all those sweet potatoes.

For a new cook or experimental one, sweet potatoes are a fun ingredient to try in more ways than you can imagine. You can’t go wrong!

– Stephanie Rhodes

Swiss chard and Sweet Potato GratinPeel and thinly slice 2 pounds of sweet potatoes. Chop 6 green onions, green tops and all. Chop 8 big Swiss chard leaves. Cube 6 ounces of Gruyere cheese.

In a prepared casserole dish, begin layering the ingredients with a layer of sweet potatoes on the bottom. Sprinkle with generous amounts of salt and pepper. Add a layer of green onions and half the Swiss chard. Place the remaining sweet potatoes on top of that, salt and pepper generously and finish with the remaining Swiss chard and the Gruyere cheese. Pour a half pint of heavy cream over all the ingredients.

Cover with foil and bake at 400 degrees for 40 minutes, until the sweet potatoes are soft. In the last 5 minutes of baking, top with ¼ cup bread crumbs.

12 FOOD, FUN & FOLKS Magazine : : Holidays 2010 Southern Illinois Foodways & Foodlore

n empty nest presents an even more formidable challenge for parents during the holiday season. For Paola and Charles Parish of Carbondale, their own empty nest – as well as friends experiencing the same

void – fueled the idea to host a Christmas Day Open House many years ago.

Paola grew up in Fabriano, Italy, situated in a beautiful mountainous region inland from the Adriatic Sea. She remembers baking cakes in her dorm room in college, and cooking for friends at her parent’s home after graduation. Paola met Charles when she was teaching English. He was conducting seminars for the Minister of Education for Italian teachers. Paola came to Washington D.C. in 1965 on a Fulbright Grant. She and Charles reconnected and later married in Carbondale.

Both were employed at SIU, Charles was a linguistics professor, and Paola was instrumental in the creation of a two-year program teaching Italian. In the early 1970’s, many foreign language courses were cut, including Italian. So, Paola drew upon her expert sewing skills and began altering clothing for a few upscale local clothing stores.

As their children grew and moved to opposite sides of the country, the Parish’s experienced years when they couldn’t be home for the holidays. Paola found that many friends were getting older or were single, and were alone during the holidays. As a child, Paola recalls extended family and friends stopping by every year on Christmas Day to visit, play games and share a meal. So began the annual tradition of the Parish Christmas Day Open House.

For over 20 years, Paola and Charles have hosted their Christmas Day Open House. Amazingly, a few friends have been able to attend every year. The Parish’s invite all of their friends and families. “It’s a nice break for friends with grown children to be able to visit us, and to see other friends they wouldn’t normally run into,” Paola says.

Christmas is a special time for Paola, who seems to effortlessly put together unbelievable multi-course gourmet dinners and buffets for large crowds. Paola recalls her early years in Carbondale when Charles’ colleagues would host several holiday parties, but times have changed as they have retired, and many of those peers have moved away.

Some of the traditional homemade items on Paola’s Christmas buffet are: Panettone, an Italian yeast bread made with candied fruit peels, raisins, almonds and brandy; several Patés made of goose, duck and venison; various Cookies and Cream Puffs; “Figgy” Christmas Pudding made with candied orange and

ABy Mary Mechler : :

Up Close withPaola and Charles Parish Never an Empty Nest on Christmas Day

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Up Close withPaola and Charles Parish Never an Empty Nest on Christmas Day

Panettone is a type of sweet bread loaf originally from Milan, usually prepared and enjoyed for Christmas and New Year in Italy, and one of the symbols of the city of Milan.

It has a cupola shape, which extends from a cylindrical base. It is made during a long process that involves the curing of the dough, which is acidic, similar to sourdough. The proofing process alone takes several days, giving the cake its distinctive fluffy characteristics. It contains candied orange, citron, and lemon zest, as well as raisins, which are added dry and not soaked. It is served in slices, vertically cut, accompanied with sweet hot beverages or a sweet wine, such as Asti Spumante or Moscato d’Asti. In some regions of Italy, it is served with crema di mascarpone, a cream made from mascarpone, eggs, sometimes dried or candied fruits, and typically a sweet liqueur such as amaretto; if mascarpone cheese is unavailable, zabaglione is sometimes used as a substitute.

– Wickipedia

lemon peel, Sherry, Cognac, figs, raisins, cardamom, cinnamon and served with hard sauce; Crostata made with Paola’s lemon fig jam and wild cherry jam, which she makes while in Italy each year; Smoked Salmon; Italian Potato Salad; Venison Roast; French Baguettes; Turkey and Ham. All are homemade and all are incredible!

This event would intimidate even the most seasoned cooks, but Paola seems to be a master of organization

as well as a gourmet cook. This year will pose a bit more of a challenge as Paola is traveling back to Italy in December with her daughters for an Uncle’s 100th birthday. Asked if she may forego the Christmas Open House this year, Paola says, “Absolutely not! I will continue to entertain our friends on Christmas Day as long as I am able.”

Friends are most grateful to Paola and Charles for providing them the opportunity to gather together on

Christmas Day to share in a festive time. “Many friends have incorporated our Open House into their own holiday traditions. That makes the day even more special,” says Paola.

–Mary Mechler is a Southern Illinois native and serves as a volunteer member of the Board of Directors

of the Carbondale Convention & Tourism Bureau. Mechler is the President of SIETC Solutions, Inc.,

an internet based e-commerce company and can be reached at her website www.cookprostore.com

Around the world

14 FOOD, FUN & FOLKS Magazine : : Holidays 2010 Southern Illinois Foodways & Foodlore

y earliest memories of Santa Claus are of a man

with a snow white beard, little round belly,

and red suit who visited University Mall in Carbondale, arriving on a fire

truck, in the late 1970s. I was raised with our modern day version of the jolly old elf, but the tradition of Santa Claus

runs deep in my own Dutch and German heritage; even the

Holly King from Celtic folklore bares a striking resemblance to ‘ole St. Nick.

Wearing traditional Bishops’ robes, Sinterklaas arrives in mid-November in Dutch

cultures, spending several weeks wandering about to determine whether children have been well behaved. Children will place their shoes by the fireplace, along with a wish list, and a carrot and bowl

of water for the horse that carries Sinterklaas, all in hopes of receiving small gifts of sweets – and not coal. The Dutch celebrate on December

5th, Saint Nicholas Eve, with family and friends when gifts are exchanged. The celebration of Sinterklaas is about giving and sharing, although the food and fun are significant pieces of the celebration.

The German Sankt Nikolaus is not dissimilar from Sinterklaas. He, too, arrives in Bishops’

robes, miter and staff and children hope for gifts of sweets as he roams about. Some areas of Germany practice a custom where children dress as Sankt Nikolaus and travel door-to-door asking for sweet treats, similar to our modern-day trick-or-treating.

Mass European immigration to the United Stated introduced us to the image of Saint Nicholas many generations ago, along with other holiday traditions. Although Saint Nick has shed his robes and Santa Claus has donned his red fur suit, some of our current practices stem from those of our ancestors. Stockings that are hung on our fireplace mantels act as the shoes placed by our Dutch and German counterparts, although some argue there is an altogether different meaning. Candy canes are symbolic of the staff shaped like a shepherd’s hook that is carried by Saint Nicholas. Giving a candy cane symbolizes the shepherd’s care for his sheep or your love for your friends and

MBy Nicole L. Davis : :

Santa ClausFrom whence he came

Phoebe Davis and Santa (aka George Whitehead).

FOOD, FUN & FOLKS Magazine : : Holidays 2010 15www.cctb.org : : www.foodfunfolks.com

family. Milk and cookies laid out by the fireplace signify our care to feed Santa, and some of us even feed the reindeer by spreading “reindeer food” across our front lawns. Even my sneaking around in the middle of the night on Christmas Eve to place small gifts in stockings and under the Christmas tree in my house embodies the secrecy undertaken by Sinterklaas in his gift giving.

Although many Christian Americans identify Santa Claus with Saint Nicholas, there are other

similar folk figures. The Holly King, Celtic God of the dying year; the Greek Cronos, also known as Father Time; Odin, a Scandinavian figure who rides through the sky on an eight-legged creature; and Thor, a Norse God who rides the sky in a chariot drawn by goats – all resemble in some way the man who now helps us celebrate our Christmas.

No matter which folk tale you prefer, or how you choose to celebrate this special time of year, there is no doubt that it is

exactly that – special – in many ways. Perhaps Santa Claus, his reindeer and his secret gift giving truly do symbolize the rich culture that embodies Southern Illinois.

16 FOOD, FUN & FOLKS Magazine : : Holidays 2010 Southern Illinois Foodways & Foodlore

We’re Southern MagnoliaBy Nicole L. Davis : :

n the winter, snow blankets the eves of Cairo’s stately Magnolia Manor, and lays, sheltering the soon-to-be young Magnolia buds

of spring. Magnolia trees are an idyllic symbol for life in the southern region of the United States and the southern hospitality that accompanies that life. However, that same southern magnolia and southern hospitality can be found throughout Southern Illinois. Perhaps the most popular magnolia icon is Cairo’s Magnolia Manor, a five-story home of Italianate architecture.

Although final construction was completed in 1872, Charles Galigher began building Magnolia Manor in 1869; the Manor has been owned by the Cairo Historical Society since 1952. The climb to the front entrance is steep, but once you walk through the double-door foyer, you walk into 19th century living at its finest. Galigher spared no expense in decorating, with Coch Decorators of St. Louis, Missouri doing all the work. The wallpaper in the home is heavy embossed paper, much like Damask, and the white woodwork is gilded with gold leaf, thin sheets of 22-karat gold.

The plaster molding was done by a local artist of the time, who used some of the same designs found in homes in the Eastern and Southern parts of the States. The molds are adorned with plaster grapes, pomegranates, and wheat, all symbols of fertility, as

well as pineapple, the universal symbol of hospitality.

Upon entering the house, you walk into a great hall – where large crowds being entertained by the Galighers once gathered before being led into the spacious ballroom. The main level of the home also houses a drawing room and what is now a dining room. The second level includes bedrooms, and the lower basement level houses the kitchen and the original servant quarters. One thing that isn’t apparent when you visit Magnolia Manor is the vegetable cellar under the front porch.

The holiday season at Magnolia Manor is glorious, with each of its 14 rooms adorned with traditional and historic ornamentation, with decorations made mostly by volunteers. The ballroom is set with a Christmas tree that nearly touches the ceiling and is decorated with ornaments that can be purchased. Each of the rooms in the home is themed, some with traditional 19th century décor, while others embrace a more modern touch with bright colors. Regardless of the era, the theme is always representative of

the room itself, with the bedroom that General Ulysses S. Grant used during his 1880 visit to Cairo always including masculine

décor, often reminiscent of the outdoors.During Holiday House, guests can

visit the upstairs Sweet Shop and

pick up a few homemade treats - the fudge is my favorite – and buy one of many books about the Manor. If you’re lucky, you’ll find the coveted “Magnolia Manor Collection,” a cookbook that includes a recipe for famous local potato bread.

Although the Galighers left us long ago, their portrait still hangs over the marble fireplace in the drawing room, reminding us of their contributions to Cairo. In the spring, when the snow retreats and the holiday is only a memory, fragrant magnolia trees grace the lush lawn of the beautiful red-bricked home, offering the perfect picture of southern plantation living – right here in Southern Illinois.

trees to prove itand we have

I

Try this great dish!

FOOD, FUN & FOLKS Magazine : : Holidays 2010 17www.cctb.org : : www.foodfunfolks.com

Grandma’s Pineapple & Cheese1 15-ounce can pineapple chunks1 pound cheddar cheese, cubed1 egg¾ cup white sugar2 Tablespoons flour

Drain the juice from the pineapple chunks into a small saucepan. Mix the sugar and flour together before adding it to the juice (this helps it blend better). Add the egg and whisk all the ingredients over a low heat until it thickens. Pour over pineapple and cheese cubes.

Pineapples are indicative of tropical climates and fresh, summer time fruits salads. But, did you know that the pineapple has been the time honored symbol of hospitality? The first known account of the pineapple was by Christopher Columbus, who “discovered” the spiny fruit in Guadeloupe and took it back to Europe in the late 1400s. The fruit’s similarity to the pine cone, although much larger, led to its name.

The Carib tribe used the pineapple as a way of welcoming someone into their home, placing the fruit by the entrance to their village. Europeans and, later, Colonial Americans adopted the tradition by carving the pineapple shape into columns of plantation entrances. The tradition continued as part of southern built plantations. Our own Magnolia Manor in Cairo even boasts the pineapple in the many plaster molds and carvings throughout the mansion.

Before the industrial development of canning pineapple in the 1900s, pineapples were extremely difficult to get in Europe and America. In fact, the only families who

could afford to pay the high price of pineapple were those of wealthy status – and then the pineapples were used whole as table decorations

at fancy dinners and banquets hosted by these wealthy families. Whole pineapple was much more expensive to obtain than sliced

or candied versions, but when it was served to guests, it was still considered a great honor. Overnight visitors were given beds with pineapple shapes carved into the headboards or finials, even if

the bed belonged to the host. The pineapple was the ultimate symbol of friendship and showed you were in a high social standing.

In the 19th century, it is very likely that the pineapple made its way to Southern Illinois in the same flat boats from New Orleans along the Mississippi River as other non-indigenous produce did. Today,

there is no set Southern Illinois tradition involving pineapple around the holidays. However, it is common to find the fruit woven into holiday décor and certainly as a part of holiday meals. In my own family, the

traditional pineapple and cheddar cheese dish is my favorite, having arrived on the Christmas Day dinner table long before I was born. My grandmother made this sweet, thick treat as part of our celebration, and now my mother has mastered the dish. It is simply sweet and made with love.

The Pineapple

18 FOOD, FUN & FOLKS Magazine : : Holidays 2010 Southern Illinois Foodways & Foodlore

By Debbie Moore : :

ordressstuff?Do you

lost count of the number of meals I’ve eaten at her table a long time ago. The number is many, and the meals have included everything imaginable from cream of peanut soup to strawberry rhubarb

pie. She always surprises me with unique menu items and her tablescapes are the same. Her guests might get to eat with mother of pearl handled silverware – or casual stainless with red plastic handles. They might drink from a piece of her collection of cobalt blue glassware or a hand thrown pottery cup. Unique. Eclectic. Comfortable. Inviting. All those words describe Sue Whitlock’s style of entertaining friends and family.

When I asked my friends if they “stuff ” or “dress” their holiday turkeys, Sue was quick to respond. She told me that she doesn’t “stuff ” anymore. Sue makes a big pan of oyster dressing, and it didn’t surprise me when she said she had to stop and think about the recipe. Most experienced cooks make their stuffing and dressing from scratch and don’t necessarily measure any of the ingredients. They just know when it is right.

Sue and her husband Jack live in one of Carbondale’s finest historic homes. The big Queen Ann Colonial Revival house (a part of the West Walnut Street Historical District) was built in 1901 by Southern Illinois University Professor George Washington Smith. Smith was a noted Lincoln historian and was, at one time, the President of the Illinois Historical Society.

In keeping with the interests of the original owners of the home, the Whitlock’s are also historians. They came to Carbondale over three decades ago so Jack could serve as the Director of the University Museum. Jack and Sue are retired – as retired as active people can be. They are involved in many volunteer organizations and Sue, an early (childhood) education consultant, continues to work for a federal agency that accredits childcare programs. They are historic reenactors of both the Revolutionary and Civil War eras. If you think you recognize Sue, you’ve possibly met her sitting at her spinning wheel at the Fort de Chartres Rendezvous or the Fort Massac Encampment.

I

FOOD, FUN & FOLKS Magazine : : Holidays 2010 19www.cctb.org : : www.foodfunfolks.com

Sue and grandsons Ben and Jack Whitlock celebrate Christmas at the Whitlock’s Home.

The Big DebateThe debate about the use of the words stuffing and dressing could go on

forever! Technically, the first definition of “dressing” was printed in the Oxford English Dictionary in 1504.

The seasoning substance used in cooking; stuffing; the sauce used in preparing a dish, a salad.

Well, that’s no answer!In Southern Illinois, our ethnic heritage influences the ways we make

dressing. If you come from a German family, you probably include apples and dried fruit in your recipe – maybe even potatoes. If you come from an Italian family, sausage or chestnuts might be favorite ingredients. Regardless of ethnicity, if your family migrated into Southern Illinois from the deeper south, you might make your dressing with cornbread or rice and you probably include pecans. Oyster dressing is common in our region, and that might be confusing since we are not located near an ocean. Remember, though, those Mississippi River boats that delivered wheat and grain to New Orleans as early as the 1700s, came back laden with oysters and fish and fresh fruits! We have always been well connected to the foodways of southern culture. We are southern in many ways.

2 loaves of white bread1 large onion, chopped2 stalks celery, chopped4 Tablespoons butter6 eggs2 Tablespoons powdered sageUp to 4 14-ounce cans chicken broth 1 pint fresh oysters

Open up the white bread a day or so before you intend to make the dressing. Spread it out and allow to dry.

Brown onion and celery in a 2 Tablespoon chunk of melted butter.

Break the bread into bite sized pieces and place in a large roasting pan that has been sprayed with a non-stick spray. Add the browned onion and celery.

Whip the eggs and add to the bread mixture. Add the sage (may need more to taste).

Heat the chicken broth and pour into the bread mixture. The mixture needs enough broth to make the mixture slightly soupy.

If oysters are used, check the oysters for bits of shell and remove them. Melt 2 Tablespoons of butter in a skillet. Pour oysters with their liquid into the hot butter. Sauté until the edges of the oysters begin curling up. Remove from the heat.

Add the oysters and liquid to the bread mixture and stir to combine all ingredients.

Bake the dressing in a preheated 350 degrees for approximately 1 hour or until it is browned and puffy.

good stuff

Sue’s Oyster Dressing

20 FOOD, FUN & FOLKS Magazine : : Holidays 2010 Southern Illinois Foodways & Foodlore

even generations of Jersey cows have grazed the land of Southern Illinois

since the Marcoot family first sailed from Switzerland in 1840. Here, they began farming the land, while also raising what is now; seven generations of families. This land has become known as the Marcoot Jersey Farm where over 60 Jersey cows roam and pasture on these grasses each day. In March 2010, the Marcoot Jersey Creamery made its first wheel of cheese and set off on a great new journey in the business of cheese making.

John and Linda Marcoot, with the assistance of his brother, Roger and his wife, Anita, own and operate the farm located in Greenville, Illinois. It has continued to grow as a family business and several family members assist in the operation of the creamery. John’s four daughters and his son-in-law, Roger’s family and John and Roger’s mother, Marian … manage and labor the farmland and the creamery every day.

The farm is home to a brand new dairy facility where the Marcoot’s registered Jersey cows graze on several different types of grasses. These grasses are constantly changing in accordance with the long

grass growing seasons of Southern Illinois. Several different types of cheeses are produced each season, as a result of the variety of grasses fed to the cows. No hormones are given to these cattle and the Marcoot’s cheeses are full of natural nutrition.

New specialty artisan cheeses are being made all the time. The Marcoot’s raw milk cheeses are aged in their 60-foot cheese cave which has been modeled after the cheese caves in Switzerland. Some of these cheeses may age anywhere from 60 days to 12 months.

The public is able to view the processing of milk and the technique of making cheese through a series of viewing windows that have been installed in their building. This allows the family to uphold their main goal of educating people on the cheese process itself, as well as to, inform them about the Marcoot’s local and premium products. Several assortments and flavors of cheeses are continually being produced at this local farm. Cheese curds are sold in flavors such as Garlic, Dill, Italian, Cajun, Tomato and Basil and even Taco. Block cheeses such as Monterrey Jack, Dill Jack, Tomato Basil, Pepper Jack, Habanero Jack and Mango Heat Jack

S

Marcoot Jersey Creamery

Southern Illinois CheeseBy Devon Clifford : :

are available for purchase, and the Marcoot Jersey Creamery will soon be producing Cheddar and Baby Swiss, as well as, Havarti, Gouda and smoked Cheddar cheeses.

This past season, The Marcoot Jersey Creamery was asked to be a part of Carbondale’s own Farmers Market. They sold cheeses and catered events here in Jackson County throughout the summer months and will return to the Farmers Market next April. The creamery has also begun working with our local, neighborhood grocers in hopes of supplying these stores in the near future. The Marcoot Jersey Creamery is slowly making a name and an impact on Southern Illinois with its many artisan cheeses and will continue to be a unique business to the area.

FOOD, FUN & FOLKS Magazine : : Holidays 2010 21www.cctb.org : : www.foodfunfolks.com

Easiest Ever Cheese BallsThe holidays are filled with reasons to entertain family and friends. Here’s a great recipe for cheese balls that are made from a single base recipe. The easiest way to make cheese balls is in a food processor but you can also use a mixer – or your old-fashioned hands – if you’d like!

Combine two 8-ounce blocks of softened cream cheese with 2 cups of shredded cheddar cheese and 1 cup of Muenster or jack cheese. Add 1/2 a stick of butter and blend all of it until completely mixed. Now, add any of the following variety of ingredients to transform it into 10 different cheese balls.

Onion Cheese Ball – add a packet of dry onion soup mix.Vegetable Cheese Ball – add a packet of dry vegetable soup mix.Bleu Cheese Ball – substitute the shredded cheddar cheese for a 4-ounce container of crumbled bleu cheese and increase the shredded Muenster or jack to 2 cups.Pineapple Walnut Cheese Ball – add 1 cup of drained crushed pineapple, ½ cup of chopped walnuts and ½ teaspoon cinnamon.Roasted Sun-dried Tomato Cheese Ball – add ¼ cup of drained sun-dried tomatoes and 1 Tablespoon of dried minced onions.Olive Cheese Ball – add one cup of chopped green or black olives, 1 teaspoon dried chives and ½ teaspoon of crushed garlic.Tex-Mex Cheese Ball – add 1 Tablespoon of chopped chili peppers (canned), 1 teaspoon of chopped

Jalapeno peppers (from can or jar) and 1 Tablespoon of dried minced onion.Bleu Cheese & Date Cheese Ball – substitute the cheddar cheese for 4 ounces of crumbled bleu cheese, increase the shredded Muenster cheese to 2 cups and add a small box of chopped pitted dates. If the mixture is too thick, add approximately 1 Tablespoon of milk or cream. This is a sweet cheese ball, great with graham crackers, vanilla wafers or shortbread cookies.Roasted Red Pepper & Spinach Cheese Ball – add ½ cup chopped roasted red peppers (drained) and 1 cup of drained frozen chopped spinach (thawed).Strawberry Preserves Cheese Ball – omit the soften butter and add ¼ cup mayonnaise, 1 cup of chopped pecans and 2 Tablespoons of minced raw onion (not dry). Use a gelatin ring mold to form your cheese ball or flatten your cheese ball and form a well in the center. Fill the center of

the ring with strawberry preserves. When you take a little spread of cheese, make sure you pick up a little preserves.

Helpful Hint: If you mold your cheese ball in a gelatin mold, line the mold with a piece of cellophane wrap and press the cheese mixture firmly down into the mold. To unmold the cheese, simply invert the mold and peel the wrap off. This is a simple and easy way to make something easy look extra pretty!

For additional information, visit www.foodfunfolks.com

Want more?

Marcoot Jersey Creamery

526 Dudleyville RoadGreenville, IL 62246

618-664-1110www.marcootjerseycreamery.com

Hours: Monday & Tuesday - Closed;Wednesday, Friday & Saturday –

10:00am – 5:00pm;Thursday – 12:00n – 7:00pm;

Sunday – 12:00n – 4:00pm

22 FOOD, FUN & FOLKS Magazine : : Holidays 2010 Southern Illinois Foodways & Foodlore

y mother made the best Christmas candy. She made fudge the old way

and the creamiest divinity ever. My dad loved it, but he also had a penchant for what we now call “old- fashioned” Christmas candy. For a month before the holiday, he’d bring home little brown paper bags filled with candy for the family to enjoy. I was an adult before I knew why.

My daddy was born in 1919 and he lived his entire life in Murphysboro (short of his time away in WWII). Like many children of the Great Depression, he had a job at a very young age. In fact, he had a few jobs because he had his own team of horses and a wagon and he put them to work. Every evening he cleaned up behind one of Murphysboro’s grocery stores and hauled away the trash. On a special Christmas Eve, when he arrived at the grocery store, the owner asked him what he did with all the money he made. Daddy told him that he took it home and gave it

to his mother. The store owner asked him why he didn’t spend his money on himself – and Daddy told him that he was earning money “for the family”. After Daddy finished his work and returned to the front of his wagon, he found a big paper bag filled with all kinds of candy. It was a gift he never forgot.

Daddy’s simple little story stuck with me. I could just see him – barely old enough to be responsible for anything – let alone making money for his family. From then on, on every Christmas Eve, I gave my dad a paper bag filled with his favorite old-fashioned Christmas candies. Like my mother, I acquired the ability to make really good fudge and divinity, but I always made sure Daddy had a couple pounds of candy ribbons and French creams, orange slices and

M

A special

giftBy Debbie Moore : :

ChristmasKroger in DuQuoin, circa 1940.

Buck’s in Murphysboro, circa 1928.

FOOD, FUN & FOLKS Magazine : : Holidays 2010 23www.cctb.org : : www.foodfunfolks.com

gumdrops, peppermints, root beer barrels, chocolate drops and those little hard candies with sweet jelly centers.

How many of us can tell similar stories? Maybe the lady behind the candy counter slipped you a little chocolate when your mom wasn’t looking. Maybe the store owner added a bag of oranges to your holiday grocery order, gratis. There was a time when the folks who owned and worked in grocery stores were part of our families! They knew every child in the neighborhood. The butcher knew how your mother wanted her roast cut and the produce man knew what vegetables would be on your holiday tables. Times have changed.

Or have they? In Southern Illinois, we still have wonderful family-owned neighborhood markets – and most of our supermarkets aim to provide that small town customer service. You’ll find homemade pork sausage to put in your turkey stuffing. You’ll find apples from local orchards for your holiday salads. This time of year, sweet potatoes, pumpkins and squash are often locally grown. The next time you visit our down home region, you might want to visit one of these special places.

Waldorf Salad – Rendleman’s Style!Core and cut (into bite-size chunks) 3 large Red Delicious apples. Combine ¾ cup of sliced celery, ¾ cup broken pecan pieces and 1 ½ cups seedless grapes. Toss the ingredients with ½ to 2/3 cup of mayonnaise and 1 Tablespoon sugar.

This recipe was originally provided by Betty Sirles of Rendlman Orchard for use in our Food, Fun & Folks cookbook. The dish is made for every family celebration!

Find sweet treats for your holiday table!Makanda Country Store526 Makanda RoadMakanda618-529-1783

Shawnee Country Store213 Foss RoadAva618-426-9618

International Grocery1811 W. Main StreetMurdale Shopping CenterCarbondale618-529-1206

Neighborhood Co-op Grocery1815 West Main Street Murdale Shopping CenterCarbondale618-529-3533www.neighborhood.coop

Arnold’s Market2141 South Illinois AvenueCarbondale618-529-5191

Small’s Food Store1005 East Main StreetMarion618-993-2735

Thornton’s Market306 East Stotlar StreetHerrin618-988-8310

Need more information?To order the cookbook, visit www.sliceofpie.biz or call 1-800-526-1500.

Buck’s in Murphysboro, circa 1928.

good stuff

24 FOOD, FUN & FOLKS Magazine : : Holidays 2010 Southern Illinois Foodways & Foodlore

Resale oR Retail!

arbondale is the shopping destination of the Southern Illinois region. With the recent addition of designer and brand

name store, T. J. Maxx – and a new Chili’s Restaurant, we’ve rounded out the list of fantastic places to shop and eat. We have plenty of locally owned unique shops like the Apple Tree on the west side of town, that’s filled with unique gift items, home décor and great things for the kitchen. Then, there’s International Fashions in University Mall, that has offered incredible clothing and accessories from all around the world – for many years. It’s always a great place to find beautiful scarves, jewelry and handbags. Right down the hallway, you’ll find My Favorite Toys where all the most popular toys are found along with the toys you remember from your childhood.

For the men shoppers, Dick’s Sporting Goods is filled with hunting, fishing and golf supplies. Children’s sports supplies and camping supplies

line their aisles.

Every electronic item you could possibly dream of is available at Best Buy and right next door, you’ll find that special food or toy for your favorite pet.

Hobby Lobby, Joann Fabrics and Calico Country offer fabrics by the yard, sewing and embroidery machines, craft supplies and home décor items and paper party goods are available at our new Party City.

If books are on your shopping list, we have the big box Barnes and Noble, but you’ll also enjoy the locally owned Bookworm or 710 Bookstore, a Carbondale icon and supplier of all

things “Saluki.”

If resale is your hobby, you’ll surely enjoy our upscale clothing consignment shop on West Main or our favorite pawn shop that is just down the street. If you enjoy charity shopping, a visit to the Church Women United’s Thrift Shop on North Illinois or the Good Will Store on East Main is a must. You can spend as much – or as little – as you like.

C

outhern $timuluspackage$

call 1-800-526-1500 or visitwww.cctb.org or

www.foodfunfolks.com

For more information

Warmest holiday greetingsfrom the staff and volunteers

of the Carbondale Convention

& Tourism Bureau.

May your New Year be filled with fabulous

Food, Fun & Folks!

5K/OctOber 2010