Finishing:All the processes after knitting and weaving to fabric transportation for garments makingare termed as finishing process. The main purpose of finishing process is treating thefabric with chemicals that changes the property of the fibers. The change in fiber propertyis achieved by various chemical and mechanical treatment of the fabric.

Objects of Finishing:The objects of finishing process are briefly discussed below:

Finishing process is done to improve properties and performance of the fabric.

Finishing process is done to improve attractiveness of the fabric which is achieved byimproving luster, whiteness of the fabric.

Finishing process is done to improve quality of the fabric.

Finishing process is done to improve hand feel of the fabric which is achieved bysoftening, stiffening and wetting of the fabric.

Finishing process is done to improve appearance of the fabric which is achieved byCalendaring, Optical brightening of the fabric.

Finishing process is done to reduce faults of the fabric.

Finishing process is done to maintain the buyer recommended dimension of the fabric.

Finishing process is done to match the ordered shade of the fabric.

Finishing process is done to improve wearing quality of the fabric.

Finishing process is done to facilitate special properties to the fabric which is achieved byproviding water proof, flame proof properties to the fabric.

Types of Finishing:There are mainly two types of finishing process. Such are discussed below:

Physical Finishing:Physical finishing is the process of treating the fabric by various mechanicalprocesses for improving the property of the fabric. Physical treatment causestemporary change to the fabric property. Physical or mechanical process is doneby Stenter, Dryer, Compactor, Squeezing, and Slitting etc. machines.

Chemical Finishing:Chemical finishing is the process of treating the fabric by processing with variouschemicals to improve the property of the fabric. Chemical treatment causespermanent changer to the fabric property. Chemical treatment is done by applyingvarious chemicals for processing of the fabric such as; Softeners, Anti creasing,Antifoaming, Enzymes and also other various chemicals.

Finishing calculations:To achieve the required GSM and diameter according to buyer specification themachine’s diameter is set at cm or mm value. So the diameter set up of machines followthe calculations given below:Fabric required diameter in mm = Fabric dia in inch × 25.4Fabric required diameter in cm = Fabric dia in inch × 2.54GSM of the fabric for 5% shrinkage =

×.

Finishing

Physical Finishing Chemical Finishing

Temporary Permanent Temporary Permanent

Calendaring Raising Starching Resin Finish,Softening,

Mercerization,Water Repellency,Flame Retardency.

The Machines used in the finishing in ECHOTEX:The machines which are used in the ECHOTEX Dye house are given below:

MachineName

MachineBrand

Machine Model ManufacturingYear

Type

SqueezingMachine

CORINOMACCHINE

ST4-A 2008 MATR. 157/08

Slitting Machine CORINOMACCHINE

APRICORDA-TAGLIERINA

2008 MATR. 155/08

Stenter ICOMATEX 544 2008 FL3

WeftStraightener

MAHLO 543 2003 IC10

Dryer ICOMATEX 2003

Open WidthCompactor

FERRARO Comptex-Re 2800 2008 MATR. 5315

Tubular FabricCompactor

FABCON _ 2008 _

TurningMachine

BEKENSFabric

ReversingMachine

_ _ _

Chemical Treatment Process: Softeners:

Softening treatment is one of the most important chemical after treatments in the textileindustry. By softening treatment textile can achieve not only soft handle but also:

a) Some smoothness.b) More flexibility.c) Drape and Pliability.d) Antistatic properties.e) Luster.f) Soft handle.

Types of softeners:There are mainly four types of softeners which are discussed below: Cationic Softeners. Anionic Softeners. Non-ionic Softeners. Silicon-based Softeners.

Cationic Softener: Cationic softeners are mostly used in a textile industry. Cationic softeners are mainly positively charged softeners. They are mainly quaternary ammonium salts, amino-esters and amino-amides.

These softeners are allowed to apply to all kinds of textiles. But these softeners can sometimes cause yellowing effect on the white fabric.

Cationic softeners should be applied in acidic condition (pH 4-5). To maintain the acidic condition acetic acid or green acid is applied. Cationic softeners are also called molecular velveting agent because they form

bond with negative electric potential of fabric surface.

Anionic Softeners: Anionic softeners are mainly negatively charged softeners. Most of the fibers contain negative charge when in contact with water, so the

fibers repulse them causing poor exhaustion then cationic softeners. These softeners can be applied where cationic softeners are restricted. These softeners cannot be applied by exhaustion method instead of that padding

method is applied. These softeners have good stability to cellulosic fibers.

Anionic softeners should be applied in acidic condition (pH >7). To maintain alkaline medium additional alkali is added.

Mainly Sulphate, Sulphonates, Sulphosuccinates and Soaps are anionic softeners.

Nonionic Softeners: Nonionic softeners are neutrally charged softeners. These softeners can be applied to most fabrics but mainly for white fabrics. These softeners have lubricating, Antistatic and scooping properties. Mainly Polyglycol Esters Oxiethylate products, Paraffins and Fats are anionic

softeners.Silicone Based Softeners:

These softeners are insoluble in water.

These softeners must be applied after the dissolution in organic solvents or in theform of disperse product.

These softeners create a lubricating and water –proof film on the fabric surface.

These softeners also give the fabric a velvety-silky handle and very high softness. These softeners provide good elastic resilience, crease recovery, abrasion

resistance and tear strength.

Mechanism of Softening: Softeners mainly react with the surface of the fibers inside the fabric.

The softener molecules penetrate into the fiber forming polymer by reducing theglass transition temperature of the fiber forming polymer and gives a plasticizedlayer to the fiber.

The physical arrangement of the softener molecules depend on the ionic nature ofthe softener and the hydrophobic nature of the fiber surface.

The positively charged cationic softeners orient themselves towards thenegatively charged fibers by creating a new surface of hydrophobic carbon chainfor which excellent softening and lubricating property is seen on the fabric.

Anionic softeners are negatively charged which causes them to keep away fromthe negatively charged fiber surface which makes the softeners more hydrophilicin nature but causes less softening than cationic softeners.

The orientation of non-ionic softeners depends on the nature of the fiber surface,with the hydrophilic portion of the softener being attracted to hydrophilic surfacesand the hydrophobic portion being attracted to hydrophobic surfaces.

Softeners used in ECHOTEX industries:There are mainly three types of softeners used in ECHOTEX dye house asfollows:

a) Cationic Softeners.b) Nonionic Softeners.c) Silicone based Softeners.

Softening products Class Functons

1. Sapamine CWS2. Basosoft FEUK3. Tubingal MSQ

CationicSofteners

1. Used for dyed fabricsoftening

1. Sapamine KL-New

2. Siligen SIH Nano3. ASL-30004. Tubingal1112

NonionicSofteners

1. Used for white fabricsoftening.

2. Sometimes used for dyedfabric softening

1. Tubingal RGH

2. Parapret F-PEB3. Arristone 644. Megasoft SMD

Siliconesofteners

1. Used for softening.2. Increasing luster of the

fabric.3. Sometimes used for fabric

shade matching.

(a) (b)

(c) (d)

(a) Cationic softening mechanism.(b) Anionic softening mechanism.(c) Nonionic softening mechanism at hydrophobic surface.(d) Nonionic softening mechanism at hydrophilic surface.

Softener applying process:The system which is followed by ECHOTEX dyehouse is given below:The total liquor taken for softener chemical application should be 1/3 of theweight of the fabric, that is,

If a fabric weight is ‘x’ gm then the total liquor should be = gm.

Normally in ECHOTEX chemicals are added as = 25-35 gm/l

Check Points of Padder Softening inECHOTEX:The points which are regularly checked during softening in the Squeezing Machine are givenbelow:

pH should be within the range of 5-5.5. Acetic Acid is added at 40gm/l- 50gm/l in 200litrer to 300litre water.

Temperature should not be high during dissolving Silicone Softeners and mixer motor arenot used during dissolving, but are stirred carefully.

Padder should be clean during applying softeners.

For most colors Sapamine CWS 25gm/l and Tubingal MSQ 15 gm/l are applied exceptwhite fabric softening.

Recipe of Nonionic Softeners:Nonionic Softener- 30-35 gm/lWater- RestTotal- 1000cc

Recipe of Silicone Softeners:Cationic Softener- 30-35 gm/lSilicone Softener- 15-35 gm/lWater- RestTotal- 1000cc

Recipe of Cationic Softeners:Cationic Softener- 30-35 gm/lAcid- 0.5-1 gm/lWater- RestTotal- 1000cc

Mechanical or Physical Treatment:

Weft Straightening:The main principle of weft straightening is to straighten the yarn and fabric Spirality which isdone by allowing the over feed to hold the yarn for passing through a longer path by widthstretcher and which is done by screw distortion. The straightened fabric is then passed throughthe change preventive roller which confirms the straightness of the fabric. Spirality of the fabricis treated by passing the fabric where one bowing roller passes the fabric at negative speed andbowing roller passes the fabric at positive speed. The calculation of weft straightening is givenbelow:

R=× ×

.

R= Straightened effect in cm.r= Straightened effect per pulse in cm.i=no. of pulse per min.L=Strenter length in meter/min.V= Basic speed in meter/min.

Figure: Weft Straightener Machine.

Over feed:Over feed device are mainly seen in stenters and compactors. It is used to allow lengthwaysshrinkage during fabric tensioning. Overfeed devices contains two pairs of powered rollerslocated above the clip chains, which feed the fabric to the chains at a higher speed than thechains are capable of. This means that the fabric edges are fed onto pins while they are in acrimped position. Clip stenters have specially constructed clips with slits. If the overfeed is

Fabric Feed

Centering RollerScannerDrive Roller

Compensator Roller

Width Stretcher Roller

Width Change Preventive Roller

Width Expander Roller

increased GSM of the fabric increases and if the overfeed speed is reduced GSM of the fabricreduces.

Figure: Over Feed Device of Stenter & Open Compactor Machines.

Chain Rails:Cast iron chain is provided for guiding the fabric through the conveyer belt while passing thefabric through the Stenter conveyer where heat is applied for controlling the GSM of the fabric.While passage of the fabric the fabric is attached with the pointed pins and the clip is pulled onthe fabric to properly attach the fabric with the pin. The clip helps the pins to hold the fabricthrough the entire process of the conveyer passage. The values for the _ Average degree ofpolymerization DP are different depending on the measuring process. The nitrate values(decomposition by nitration) are almost always 10% higher than the cuoxam values(decomposition by solution in cuoxam). Staudinger described this phenomenon as chain lengthdifference CLD and the Chain length is measure by following calculation:

Chain length Difference (%) = × ×100.

Figure: Chain rail of Stenter & Open Compactor Machines.

Fabric Attaching Pins

Fabric Holding Clip

Over feed roller Three finger selvedge uncurler

IR Sensor

Finger

Pinning Roller

Support Roller

Brush Roller

Pin Bar

Feed Fabric

Hot Air Circulation System:In Stenter and Dryer machines air is recirculated which passes from the exhaust stubs and air controllerflaps. Then the air is passed over the nozzles through which fabric is passed and routes it over to the heatexchanger which lets the air to be heated by the burner. The circulating air fan allows the hot air to passuniformly through the nozzles to the fabric where the air controller flaps control the upper and lowernozzle air and thus the fabric is heated. Finally the used hot air is passed on to the exhaust air duct.

Figure: Hot air circulating system of Stenter & Dryer..

Dryer Machine:Dryer machine is used for removing the residual water contained in the fabric after squeezing byapplying heat on the fabric. In this machine the fabric is fed on the drying net at low over feedspeed and the humidity is continuously measured. Drying is done by applying heat throughburner nozzles. During drying the total heat passed through the machine is extracted by theexhaust fan.

Functions:1. To dry the fabric with the help of blower and burner.2. To control the shrinkage of the fabric.3. To prepare the fabric for next subsequent process.4. To dry fabric without tension.5. To remove residual water containing in the fabric.

Main parts of the machine:1. Drying Net.2. Heating Chamber:

CirculatingAir Fan

ChainRail

Burner

CirculatingAir

ExhaustSluts Nozzles

FabricGuide

HeatExchanger

ControllerFlaps

3. Blower.4. Burner.5. Free Roller.6. Centering Roller.7. Scroll Roller.8. Folder.9. Rubber Belt for fabric delivery.10. Exhaust fan.

Temperature of fabric drying:The temperature of fabric drying increases with the increasing GSM, but the over feed speeddecreases.

FabricType

Color Speed Over Feed Temperature Stretch (%)

S/J White 10 15 -20 1200C 35%Dyed 8 – 10 15 - 20 1200C -1300C 35%

PK White 12 -15 30 1200C 50%Dyed 15 30 1200C -1400C 50%

1x1 Rib White 7 -8 10 1200C -1400C 20%Dyed 7 - 8 10 1300C-1400C 20%

2x2 Rib White 7 -8 20 1200C 25%Dyed 7 - 8 20 1200C -1300C 25%

Figure: Dryer Machine.

Scroll Roller

Drying Net

Folder

Rubber Belt

Blower

Heating Nozzle Exhaust Fan Line

Centering Roller

Delivery roller

Over Feed Free Roller

Burner

Squeezing & Slitting Machine:Squeezing machine is used for extracting water from dyed fabric by squeezing through rollershaving different pressure. Squeezer machine designed to extract water from piece goods treated inrope form. They are used as an intermediate devices such as washers or autonomous devices. In the lattercase they are usually full-width squeezers. The first padder rollers gives proper squeeze to the fabric andextracts the water and the second squeeze roller passes the fabric half the speed of the first squeeze rollerwhich causes the softener chemicals tro properly pass into the fabric.

Function of the Machine:1. To reduce fabric surface water content.2. Squeezing the fabric for proper softening chemical penetration.3. Applying softening chemicals to the fabric.

Main parts of the machine: Twister.

Polyreference or Centering roller. Bello. Bello Alarm.

Chemical Tank.

Tension roller

Squeezing roller.

Guide Belt.

Guide Roller.

Over feed and Padder pressure of Squeezing Machine:Squeezing temperature and speed is given below:

Fabric Type Speed OverFeed

PadderPressure 1

PadderPressure 2

Single Jersey 60m/min-80m/min

2.5%-3% 1.5bar(Chemical)-2 bar(Normal)

3bar(Chemical)-4 bar(Normal)

1×1 Rib 30m/min-40m/min

2.5%-3% 1.25bar(Chemical)-3 bar(Normal)

2.5bar(Chemical)-3 bar(Normal)

2×2 Rib 20m/min- 2.5%-3% 1.25bar(Chemical)- 2.5bar(Chemical)-

30m/min 3 bar(Normal) 3 bar(Normal)Loop Back 20m/min-

30m/min2.5%-3% 1.5bar(Chemical)-

2 bar(Normal)3bar(Chemical)-4 bar(Normal)

Figure: Squeezing Machine:

TwisterCentering roller

Bello

Chemical tank

Tension roller

Padder

Stenter Machine:The Stenter machine consist of 7 drying chambers, padder rollers and a weft straighteningsection which enables the machine to control Spirality, Shrinkage, GSM during the fabricpassage. During processing first the fabric is passed through the padding section orsqueezer for properly squeezing the fabric and processing softening treatment of thefabric through feed roller and guide roller. Then it goes through the weft straighteningsection where by bowing roller fabric spirality is controlled and then passed throughchain rail for shrinkage control.

Purpose of the m/c:

To make the fabric dry For heat setting in case of Lycra, Viscose fabric To Control Fabric GSM To control Shrinkage To Control Spirality To control fabric Diameter To make the fabric soft by applying chemical Width control

Main parts: Heating Chamber.

Blower Width Control Device.

Biasing Unit Selvedge Trimming Device. Softener Application Tank.

Divider Box Guide roller.

Finger Roller. Rider Brush.

Blower. Over feed Roller. Bowing Roller.

Photocell.

Figure: Stenter Machine.

Exhaust Fan

BlowerNozzle

Burner

Chain rail

Wheel

Finger roller

Guide roller

Process flow & machine arrangement in finishing section:

Dyed fabric

Sewing to make the fabric rolls continuous

Tube finishing Open finishing

Squeezing

(Chemical & Softenertreatment)

Slitting to make open fabric

(Chemical & Softenertreatment)

Drying

(Only heating & G.S.M control)

Stentering

(G.S.M control, heat setting,Squeezing & chemical

treatment)Turning

(Only for single jersey fabric)Compacting

(G.S.M control to meetbuyer’s requirements)Compacting

(G.S.M control to meetbuyer’s requirements)

Quality Control