KOMBUCHA,KEFIR,ANDBEYOND

AFUN&FLAVORFULGUIDETOFERMENTINGyourown

PROBIOTICBEVERAGESathome

ALEXLEWIN&RAQUELGUAJARDO

CONTENTS

PREFACES

1WHYFERMENTYOURDRINKS?

2OURCULTUREDHISTORY

3FERMENTATION,SCIENCE,ANDHEALTH

4BEFOREYOUSTART

5FIVE-MINUTERECIPES

6STARTERS,MASTERRECIPES,ANDGENERALPRINCIPLES

7KOMBUCHAANDJUN

8VEGETABLEDRINKS

9SODAS

10BEERS,GRAINS,ANDROOTS

11WINES,CIDERS,ANDFRUITS(ANDVINEGAR!)

12MEXICANPRE-HISPANICDRINKS

13FERMENTEDCOCKTAILS

RESOURCES

ABOUTTHEAUTHORS

RECIPEDIRECTORY

INDEX

PREFACES

RAQUELGUAJARDOIWASBORNandraisedinMonterrey,NuevoLeón,anindustrialtownsurroundedbymountainsinthenorthofMexicothatiswellknownforitscarneasada,cabrito,tortilladeharina,andbeer.Asaproudregiomontana,Ihavealwayslovedbeer,butIdidn’tassociateitwithfermentation,andneverinmywildestdreamscouldIhaveimaginedmyselfbrewingmyown.Forme,fermentationstartedinSeattle,Washington,duringaRealFood

CookingCoursetaughtbyMonicaCorrado.Amongotherthings,shetaughtmehowtomakesauerkrautandtheprinciplesoffermentation.SherecommendedthebookWildFermentationbySandorKatz,andsoonIwashookedoneverythingfermented.Then,twoyearsago,IinvitedSandortoteachaworkshopinMonterrey.More

peoplegothooked,andIgotinspiredtoexperimentandcomeupwithmyownrecipes.ThenIinvitedAlextoteachanotherfermentationworkshopinMonterrey,on

kimchiandthescienceoffermentation.Duringhisstay,hetastedacoupleofmyfermentedbeverages,andIamprettysureheenjoyedthem.Afterall,theideaforthisbookwasborninmykitchenaswedrankpulqueandtepache.

ALEXLEWINIGREWUPintheNortheastoftheU.S.,inNewYork,Connecticut,andMassachusetts.IstartedthinkingandreadingaboutfoodandhealthwhenIwasinmy20s.Onebookwouldsayonething,anotherbookwouldsaysomethingdifferentandincompatible,andbothwouldhavegoodjustificationsforwhattheysaid.Iwascuriousbynature,andatthetimeIhatedunsolvedmysteries,soIstartedreadingmore.ThisledmeonapathofdiscoveryinformedbyAndrewWeil,SandorKatz,SallyFallon,theInstituteforIntegrativeNutrition,theCambridgeSchoolofCulinaryArts,andmanymore.Infact,myviewsareinformedbyalmosteveryoneItalkwithabouthealthandfood.AndIhavemademypeacewithunsolvedmysteries—therewillalwaysbesomethingsthatwedon’tknow,andI’mokaywiththat.Fermentation,especiallywithwildstarters,dependingasitdoesoninvisibleforcesandserendipity,isagreatstageonwhichtodancewiththeunknown.

IspeakforbothRaquelandmyselfwhenIsaythatwe’veenjoyedbeinglearningpartnerstogether.Ourskillsandperspectivesandcommunitiesaresimilarinsomanyways,andcomplementaryinsomanyothers;workingtogetherhasbeenfunandenlightening.Weareallstrongerwhenweworktogether,embracingdifference,diversity,

theunfamiliar,andtheunknown.Donotletmisguideddemagoguessuggestotherwise.Wehopethatyouenjoythisbookthatwe’vebrewedupforyou.Salud!

CHAPTERONE

WHYFERMENTYOURDRINKS?Weareinthemidstofahealthcrisis—or,toputit

anotherway,adiseasecrisis.Forproof,justturnonthe

television.You’llbeexhortedtobuydiabetes

maintenanceequipment;cholesterol-loweringdrugs

withsignificantsideeffects;digestivenostrumsthat

bluntunpleasantsymptomswithoutaddressing

underlyingcauses;allergypillsthatsuppressthe

immunesystem;painkillers;andmore.

Theinterspersedcommercialsareforsugarydrinks,junkfood,andtoxicpersonalcareandcleaningproducts,theuseofwhichlikelycontributestoconditionssuchasdiabetes,cardiovasculardisease,digestiveproblems,andallergies.Soundfamiliar?Itdoesn’tseemlikethisisacompletecoincidence.Loveitorhateit,advertisingisareliablebellwether:Thecommercialswesee

aretheonesthatsellproductandmakemoney.SuperBowlcommercials,forexample,arethecaviarofthedomesticadvertisingworld.Guaranteedmillionsofviewers,theseadscost10milliondollarsperminute.Yetduringthe2016SuperBowl,wesawanadforadrugtoaddressaveryspecificmaladythatmanyofushadneverconsidered:opioid-inducedconstipation.Opioidsareopium-derivedandopium-relateddrugs,includingalonglistofprescriptionpainkillersandstreetdrugs.Ifwewereanationofhealthypeople,we’dbeseeingdifferentcommercials.MexicofindsitselfinthesameboatastheUnitedStates.Itisoneofthe

world’smostobesecountrieswithoneofthehighestinfantdiabetesrates.Americanfastfoodchainsandsupermarketshavebeencrowdingoutmercados,wherefreshseasonalfoodusedtobefound.Fortheyoungergenerations,buyingAmericanfastfoodispartofthemodernwayoflife,coolandhip,likehavingacellphone,whereasthetypicalgrandmafoodssuchaspozole,tamales,andmole

areold-fashioned.Eventhetortilla,thehallmarkofMexicanfood,haschangedfortheworse,andsadly,traditionaltortilleríasaredisappearing.AstheUnitedStatesgoes,sogonotonlyherAmericanneighbors,butmuch

oftheworld.Withtheexpansionofmarketsforbig-businessfoodandtobaccoproductscomesdiabetes,heartdisease,obesity,cancer,andchronicdigestiveandimmunesystemdysfunction.Andthesemaladiescreatenewmarketsforpharmaceuticalproducts.Aredrugsreallythebestwaytobreakthiscycle?Maybefermentedbeverages

canhelp.

WHATISFERMENTATION,ANYWAY?Fermentationisthetransformationoffoodthroughtheactionofmicrobes.Microbesaremicroscopiclifeforms,includingbacteria,yeasts,andmolds.(Virusesaresometimesconsideredmicrobes.Theyhavenometabolism,sotheyaren’tdirectagentsoffermentation,andtheywon’tbediscussedhere.)Viachemicalreactions,thesemicrobestransformcarbohydrates(sugarsandstarches)intoacids,alcohols,andgases.Alongtheway,smallbutusefulamountsofvitaminsandenzymesarecreatedtoo.Digestionreferstoprocessesinlivingorganismsthatbreakdownfoodinto

variouscomponents.Digestionisgenerallyacceleratedbyheatandcatalyzedbyspecialproteinscalledenzymes.Enzymesareemployedbyalllifeforms,frommicrobestomammals.Infact,itturnsoutthatmanyofthesameenzymesusedbymicrobesarealsofoundinthehumandigestivetract.Thisisnotacoincidence—manyofourgutenzymesarecreatedbymicrobesthatlivethere.Theseenzymesplayacrucialroleinhumandigestion.Theseenzymesalsoplayacrucialroleinfermentation,whichhappenswhen

microbesusethemtostartbreakingdownfood.Thesemicrobesareeffectivelypredigestingourfermentingfood,insomeofthesamewaysthatweourselvesdigestfoodinsideourbodies,usingsomeofthesameenzymes.Sowhenweeatfermentedfoods,wearegettingaheadofthegame;thesefoodsareeasierforourbodiestodigest.Thismayhelpustobetterassimilateimportantnutrientsfromthefood—wehavemoretimetobreakdowncompoundsthatcouldinhibitnutrientuptake.Itmayalsoreducedifficult-to-digestandinflammatorycompounds,sowefacefewersignsofdigestivedifficultiessuchasgas,bloating,acidreflux,andheartburn.Thishelpsustomitigate,avoid,andsometimesreversechroniclong-termdigestivediseases.Asby-productsofmetabolismanddigestion,somemicrobescreate

meaningfulamountsofBandC

vitamins.Somemicrobesalsocreateother,moreobscurehumannutrients,includingsomewhosefunctionswearestilllearningaboutandsomethatwemayneverknowaboutorunderstand.Additionally,manyoftheproductsoffermentationpromotehealth,staveoffdisease,and/oractivelyreversesometypesofhealthproblemsinhumansandotherbiggercreatures.Thisisparticularlythecasewhensmallamountsofmineralsororganicmaterials,suchasherbs,areincludedinthefermentingprocess.Weareonlybeginningtounderstandsomeofthesubstancesandmechanismsinvolved.

EATREALFOODSFoodsciencedoesnotnecessarilyprioritizethediscoveryofnewfoodnutrients—there’smuchmoreincentivetoinventnewindustrialprocessesthatsavetimeandmoney,ortocreatenewflavoringsforpotatochipsandfastfood.Fromthepointofviewofhumanhealth,foodscienceadvancesslowly,sometimestakingtwostepsforwardandonestepback.Unfortunately,thatmeansthemessagesthatreachconsumersaboutwhattheyshouldorshouldn’teatmaynotbefocusedonwhatwouldhelpthemmaintainrobusthealth.Becausefoodscienceisn’tfocusedonnutrition,it’sworthourwhiletoseek

outrealfoods—foodsthatarecloseinformtohowtheyoccurinnature,processedinthehomekitchen,withtracecompoundsintact.Industriallyprocessedfoodsalmostalwayslosenutritionalvalueduringprocessing;eveniftheylookokayonpaper,theyareoftenstrippedofpoorlyunderstoodorunknowntracecompounds.Theirproductionprocessservesthefoodproducersfirstandthepublicsecondorthirdornotatall.ConsiderthestoryofSoylent:In2013,apairofyoungentrepreneurswere

creatingtechproductsthattheyhopedwouldchangetheworld.Becausetheywantedtomaximizethetimetheyspentworkingontheirprojects,theywerefrustratedthatittooksolongtoselect,procure,prepare,andeatfood.Sothey

appliedtheirconsiderableanalyticskillstotheproblemoffood,andafterresearchingmoderndietaryscience,theycameupwithaformulaforamealreplacementthatincludedallknownessentialnutrients,inamountsandproportionsconsistentwiththerecommendationsoftheexperts.Theirgoalwastocreatean“adultformula”thatpeoplecouldconsumeexclusivelyandindefinitely.Theirfriendswerenaturallycuriousaboutwhattheyweredoingandwhytheyneverwantedtosharemealsanymore.Interestincreased,andsoontheyformedanewcompanytosellthemealreplacement,whichtheycalledSoylent.They’vebeensellingSoylenteversince,andthey’vealsoexpandedtheircompanymissiontoincludefeedingpeopleinneed,intheUnitedStatesandaroundtheworld.Theygetfullpointsfortheirsocialmission.Theycanhelpalotofhungry

peoplewithSoylent.Itissurelyeffectiveasashort-termoremergencymealreplacementforpeoplewithoutaccesstofood.Butasalong-termmealreplacement?It’sdoubtfulthatcurrentdietaryscienceknowseverythingthereistoknowaboutthenutrientsthathumansneedtothrive.Itseemslikelythat,50yearsfromnow,wewilllookbackandthink,“Ican’tbelievetheydidn’tknowtoincludevitaminZ!”orsomethingalongthoselines.Theearlytwentiethcenturysawhugeadvancesinnutrition,withnew

nutrientsbeingdiscoveredquiteoften;sincethen,therateofadvancementhasslowedalot,whichcouldleadonetobelievethatweareapproachingfullunderstanding.Butoften,whenwethinkthatwefinallyunderstandafieldofsciencecompletely,wegetarudeawakeningafewyears(orafewdecades)later.Justforexample,inthe1890s,arespectedphysicistnamedAlbertAbrahamMichelsonsaid,“mostofthegrandunderlyingprinciples[ofphysics]havebeenfirmlyestablished,”anddeclaredthatallthatremainedwasincreasingtheprecisionofmeasurements.Tenyearslater,theworldofphysicswasshakentoitscorebyAlbertEinsteinandrelativity,thenagainnottoolongafterbyMaxPlanckandquantumphysics.Physicstodayhasmanymoreopenquestionsthanitdid120yearsago!

WHAT’SINANAME?

ThenamesoylentisareferencetoafoodproductinthesciencefictionnovelMakeRoom!MakeRoom!andtoitsbetter-knownmovieadaptationSoylentGreen.Inboththebookandthemovie,globaloverpopulationandclimatechangeleadtomiserableconditionsonEarth,andmostofthepopulationaresurvivingonfullyindustrializedfoodrations,initiallymadeofacombinationofsoyandlentils(soylent).Inthemovie,thefoodsituationgetsmoredire,andthesoylent

formulaundergoesseveralrevisions;attheend,itisrevealedthatthelatestversionofthisfood,SoylentGreen,containsanunexpectedandshockingingredient.

Whateverthe(real)company’sintentioninassociatingitselfwiththisstory,itwasagreatmarketingmove—itgotthemalotofattention.

Humannutritionisevenhardertostudythanphysics.Conditionsarehardertocontrol,goodexperimentsarehardertodesign,andexperimentssometimestakedecadesfromconceptiontostarttofinish.Andethicalconcernsmakehumanexperimentsmorecomplicatedthanothersortsofexperiments—youcan’tingoodconscienceexperimentonahumanthewayyoucanonanatom,orevenarat.Soitseemsextremelyunlikelythathumannutritionisa“solved”field.WhatmineralorvitamincofactormightbemissingfromSoylent,andwhat

mightbethelong-termeffectsofeatingonlysyntheticfood?Ifyoufeelconfidentthatweknoweverythingthereistoknowaboutnutrients,andthatyoucangetallofthemfromamanufacturedpowder,thenfeelfreetobetyourlifeonit!Otherwise,youmightconsiderincludingtraditionalfoodinyourdiet,thekindthathasseenhumanpopulationssurviveandoftenthriveformillenniaandthatcontainsnutrientsthatwedon’tyetknowabout.Humanpopulationsathousandyearsagohadhealthchallenges,tobesure,buttheydidn’thavetheparticularproblemsthatwehavenow,onthescalethatwehavethem,eventakingintoaccountthechangesinaveragelifespan.

INDUSTRIALFOOD:CAVEATEMPTOR

Dietaryguidelineschangeovertheyears.Thisispartlybecausescienceprogressesandourunderstandingofhumanhealthevolves.Butthechangesarenotalwaysmovingusinthedirectionofincreasedhealth.Marketers,regulators,andevenscientistsallhavetheirownagendasthatarenotalwaysalignedwiththeadvancementoftruthorwiththeinterestsofpeoplewhoeatfood.

Amarketer’spriority,forinstance,istoincreasesalesofhisorherproducts.Therearesomelimits,ofcourse;ifaproductharmsorkillscustomers,forinstance,itcouldleadtoadamagedreputation,expensivelawsuits,and/orregulatoryactionfromgovernmentagencies.Thesenegativesmustbeweighedagainstthepositivesofincreasedsales.Acompany’sdesiredimageplaysaroleindeterminingwherethebalancelies.Somecompaniesdependonbeingknownforhealthyproductsandstewardshipoftheearthtohelpdrivetheirsales.Othersmayfocusmoreonoperationalefficienciesthathelpthemsellatalowerpricethantheircompetition.Stillothersmayfocusoncleveradvertising(forexample,breakfastcerealswithcartooncharacters)todrivesales.Inanycase,companiesthatwishtosurvivemusttrytoconvincepeopletobuytheirproducts.Regardlessoflong-termhealthbenefitsordetriments,theirmarketingmessageisalwayssomeversionof“youshouldeatthis.”

Regulatorsmuststrikeabalancebetweenprotectingcitizensandenablingcommerce.Regulationsnecessarilychangeslowly,moreslowlythanourunderstandingofhumanhealthevolves—ifregulationschangedeverytimeanewstudycameout,itwouldbeimpossibleforbigcompaniestocreateviablemultiyearbusinessplans.AndintheUnitedStatesatleast,manygovernmentregulatorscomefromtheindustriesthattheyregulateandmayhopetoreturntothoseindustriesafterthey’redone.Thismaymotivatesomeofthemtofavortheironce-and-futurecorporateemployers,meaningthattheirincentivesmaynotbealignedwiththoseofthepeopletheyarechargedtoprotect.

Evenscientists’choicesandworkarenotmotivatedexclusivelybythepursuitofpureandabstracttruthorbysolvingthemostimportantproblemsoftheday.Forone,theabilityofscientiststoresearchatallisconstrainedbytheavailabilityofmoney.Ifnoonewantstofundastudy,thestudywon’thappen.Today,moreandmoreresearchisunderwrittennotbyuniversitiesorgovernmentgrantsbutbycorporations,whosechoicesareoftenguidedbytheirdesiretomakemoney.That’ssimplyhowmarketcapitalismworks.Additionally,sometimesscientistsbuildtheirreputationsaroundparticularideasthattheycreateorsupportoverdecades.Theymaybereluctanttochangetheirstatedbeliefs,beliefsaroundwhichthey’vebuilttheircareers,evenwhenfacedwithnew,compellingevidencethatrunsagainsttheirparadigms.Wehaveseenthisrepeatedlyovertheyearswiththeriseandfalloflow-fatdiets,transfats,variousartificialsweeteners,mercuryfillings,leadedgasolineandpaint,cigarettes,andthelike.

Theprincipleofcaveatemptor,“letthebuyerbeware,”appliesverymuchwhenitcomestofood,despitethemanywell-meaningproducersandregulators.

NOTE:Caveatemptorappliesatleastasmuchormoretopersonalcareproducts,whichareregulatedlessstrictlythanfood.Weadministermostofthemdirectlytothehumanbody’slargestorgan—theskin—andtheyareabsorbedquickly.Someofthecompoundsthatcanbefoundinpersonalcareproductsincludelead,mercury,arsenic,andhydrogenatedcottonseedoil.Seewww.safecosmetics.orgformoreinformation.

WHATARETHEBENEFITS?Fermentedfoodsareusuallyeitheracidic(sour,lowpH),alcoholic(slightlytomoderately),orboth.Andpathogenic(sickness-inducing)microbesgenerallycannotsurviveinacidicoralcoholicenvironments.Thus,duringthemanytimesthroughouthistorywhengettingsafedrinkingwaterhasbeenachallenge,fermenteddrinkshavebeenlifesavers,literally.Butthebenefitsdon’tendthere.

FERMENTEDFOODSDON’TSPOILQUICKLY.

Thesamefactorsthatmakefermenteddrinkssaferthanwater—resistanceto“bad”microbes—alsohelpmakethemlesspronetospoilagethanunfermentedfoodsanddrinks.Fermentationcanbeagreatwaytoprolongtheuseablelifeoffoodswhenaccesstorefrigerationislimitedornonexistent.

THEY’REGOODFORYOU.

Evenwhenaccesstosafedrinkingwaterisnotanissue,fermentedfoodsanddrinksareimportantforpeoplewithchallengeddigestion.Manyoftheacidsinfermentedfoodshavepositivehealtheffectsbeyondtheirabilitytokeepthebadguysatbay:Theycanhelpresolvedigestivedisordersrelatedtotheregulationofstomachacid,suchasacidreflux;Theycanalsohelpsmoothoutbloodsugarfluctuations.Andsmalltomoderateamountsofalcoholcanhaveotherhealthbenefitsforsomepeople,includingreducedriskofcardiovascularproblems,reliefofstress,andsoon.Formoreonthehealthbenefitsoffermenteddrinks,seehere.

HOME-FERMENTEDDRINKSCANBELOWERINALCOHOL.

Large-scalemodernalcoholproductionusesyeasts(microbes)thathavebeenselectivelybredfortheirabilitytotolerateandproducehighlevelsofalcohol.Onthehorizonaregenetically-modified(GMO)yeasts,whichwouldallowquickerandeasiercustomizationofyeastswithparticularcharacteristics,includingstillhigheralcoholtolerance,foruseinindustrialfoodandbeverageproduction.Bycontrast,small-scaleandnonindustrialalcoholicfermentationoftenuses

wildyeastsoryeaststhatarenotfarfromwild.Theseyeastshavealowertoleranceforalcoholthanengineeredyeasts,sothedrinkstheyproducegenerallycontainlessalcohol,makingthemmoresuitableformorefrequentconsumption,inlargerquantities,andbymoresensitivegroupsofpeople(children,theelderly,theinfirm,andpregnantwomen).Dailyconsumptionof

low-alcoholbeverageshasbeenthenorminmanyplacesandatmanytimesthroughouthistory,especiallywhenandwhereitwashardtogetsafedrinkingwater.Thishasbeentrueeveninreligiouscommunitiesthattodayaregenerallyopposedtotheuseofalcoholbytheirmembers.Mormons,forinstance,hadmorerelaxedrulesaroundalcoholuntiltheearly1900s,whentheproductionandsaleofalcoholwereprohibitedentirelyintheUnitedStates.AndtheideathatIslamforbidstheconsumptionofalcoholisanoversimplification;itdependswhomyouask.Whatismoreclearisthatitforbidsdrunkenness.Considerthatkefir,afermentedmilkdrink,issaidtohavebeenagiftfromMohammedtohispeople:Kefircontainssometimesnoticeableamountsofalcohol.Andforwhatit’sworth,thewordalcoholcomesfromArabic.Havingsaidallofthat,alcoholconsumptionisamorecomplicatedtopictodayincar-centricsocietiesbecausemanyofusareexpectedtobeabletoregularlypilottwo-tonrollingfortressesflawlesslyat100+feetpersecond!

THEYSUPPORTTHEMICROBESINYOURGUT.

Themicrobesthatareinstrumentalinthetransformationoflivefermentedfoodscanalsohelpreestablishahealthy,balancedmicrobialecosysteminyourgut.Gutmicrobesplayrolesinmanyimportantbodyprocesses,includingdigestion,theendocrinesystem,theimmunesystem,andtheregulationofbloodcholesterollevels.Ingestingmicrobe-richfoodushersthesepotentialsettlerstowardthegut.Preindustrialhumansgenerallydidnothaveashortageofmicrobesintheir

diet,althoughtheydidsometimesgetsickfromthewrongones.Bycontrast,industrialhumanseatalotofprocessed,canned,andcookedfoods—oneaspectofwhathasbeencalledtheStandardAmericanDiet(SAD)—andnotverymany

raworfermentedfoods.Supplementingthesedietswithsomefermentedfoodscanprovideuswiththemissing“nutrient”ofmicrobes.Itisworthmentioningthatmostcellswithintheboundariesofthehuman

bodyarenothumancellsatall,butaremicrobesofonesortoranother.Agreatdealofthismicrobialdiversityexistswithinourdigestivetracts.Andifwelookatthediversityofgeneticmaterial,wefindthatmicrobesdominatethehumanorganism:Oneestimateisthat99%ofthedistinctDNAcontainedinsideatypicalhumanisfrommicrobes!Sobythenumbers,atleast,humansarenotindividualbeingsatall,butratherheterogeneouscommunitiesofcellsofvariousspecies—ortobelesstechnical,greatskin-bagsofinvisiblecreatures,withalotofcomingandgoing.Thesespeciesarecrucialtotheproperfunctioningofourbodies—alsoknownasourhealth.Weareecosystems,andwhatweperceiveasourhealthishardorimpossible

toseparatefromtheharmoniousoperationoftheentiresystemandallitsproperinhabitants,includingthemicrobes.

WHYBEVERAGES?Fermentedfoodstakemanyforms,includingsolid,liquid,andinbetween.Sowhatisthespecialappealoffermenteddrinks?

THEY’REEASYTOINCORPORATE.

First,wemayfallintohabitsmoreeasilyaroundbeveragesthanaroundsolidfoods.Manyofushavemorningroutinesthatincludebeverages.Wealsohavepreferredbeveragesthatweconsumewithmealsorthroughouttheday.Itmaybeeasiertosubstituteoraddfermentedbeveragesintotheseroutinesthanitwouldbetosubstituteoraddsolidfoods.Drinkscanbelesschallengingthansolidfoods.Somefermentedfoodsareso

pungenttheyarebestusedascondiments,inrelativelysmallquantities.Otherscanbechallengingbecauseoftheirunfamiliartextures.Inafewcountries,peopleroutinelyeatfermentedcabbageeverydaywitheverymeal;butitmightbehardtoconvincetherestofustoeatthatmuchkimchi!Ashotofkombuchamightbeaneasiersellingeneral.

THEYCOMPLEMENTMEALS.

Second,itisimportanttodrinktherightbeverageswithourmeals.Wearefrequentlytoldthatwemustdrinklotsofwater;thus,manyofthemosthealth-consciousamongusdrinklotsofwater,allthetime.Butwatermaynotthebestthingtodrinkwithmeals—especiallyicewater.There’sevidencethattoomuch

watercan(literally)waterdownouracidicdigestivejuices,inhibitingdigestion.Andcoldtemperaturesgenerallyslowdownchemicalreactions.Digestionisallaboutchemicalreactions,sowearedoingourselvesnofavorsicingdownourdigestivetractswhilewe’reeating.Evenbeyondallofthat,drinkingtoomuchwateratanytimeofthedaycanupsetthemineralbalanceinourbodies;inextremecases,itcanleadtodeath.Sonaturallyfermentedbeveragesareanidealdrinkoption:Theyaregenerallysomewhatacidic,andifthey’remadewiththerightingredients,aswewilldiscuss,theycontainmineralsthatourbodiesneedaswell.

THEY’REAPPEALING.

Third,somefermentedbeveragescanbecraftedtoresemblecommercialsodas,makingthemfamiliarandappealingtoahugepotentialaudience.Bothfermenteddrinksandsodascanbefizzy,sour,andstronglyflavored.Theironyofmakingfermenteddrinksimitatesodasisthis:Thefermenteddrinksexistedfirst,andthecommercialoneswereoriginallydesignedascheap,easy-to-manufactureimitationsofthefermentedones!Somesodanames,includingrootbeerandgingerale,betraythisfact.Soda’sforcedcarbonationandpotentiallytoxicphosphoricacidmimicthenaturalcarbonationandhealthylacticacidfoundinmanyfermentedbeverages.Andsodasgenerallyincorporatelargeamountsofindustriallyproducedsugars,whichmakesthemmoreaddictive.

THEY’RECONVENIENT.

Fourth,beveragesaremoreconvenientthansolidfoods.Beveragesareeasytotransportandtoconsumewhiletraveling,evendriving.Theydon’trequireimplements,plates,ornapkins;areeasiertocleanupafter;andareeasytoportionandtoshare.Andtheyareeasierfortheweak,theyoung,andtheelderlytoingest.

THEY’REQUICK.

Fifth,fermenteddrinkscanbequicktomakeand/orprocure.Somecanbepreparedinmereminutes.Sometimes,allthat’sinvolvedischoppingupsomevegetables,addingwaterandseasalt,andwaiting.Someexcellentfermentedbeveragesandfermentedbeverage“precursors”arewidelyavailableatUnitedStatessupermarkets:plainyogurt,forexample;rawapplecidervinegar;sauerkrautandkimchi;and,increasingly,fermentedbeveragesthemselves:kombucha,kvass,kefir,switchel,andothers.

THEY’REGOODINCOCKTAILS.

Andfinally,sixth,fermentedbeveragesmakegreatmixeddrinks.Cocktailshaveundergonearenaissanceinrecentyears.Somepeoplewanttogobeyondtheeasy,obvious,andclassicrecipes.Bartendersandamateurmixologiststodaywanttomakeanameforthemselvesandarelookingforsomethingnewanddifferent.Seechapter13forsomeideasforcocktailsinvolvingfermentedingredients—it’snotacomprehensiveguide,butmoreofastartingpointandinspirationforthosewhowanttoexperiment.Andwithregardstococktails,here’ssomethingtoponder:Laterinthebook,weincluderecipesforfermentedcoconutwater(shownhere)andfermented,spicedpineapplewine,knownastepache(shownhere).IsitpossiblethattheancestorofthePiñaColadawasactuallyasour,refreshing,low-sugar,lightly-alcoholicdrink,adrinkthatyoucouldenjoyallday,ratherthanthethick,sweet,andstrongonethatsomeofusareaccustomedto?Fornewcomers,fermenteddrinksareanidealintroductiontotheworldof

fermentation.Forexperiencedenthusiasts,newanddifferentbeveragescanenliventhefermentationlandscapeandprovidenewoptions.Andforeveryone,fermentedbeveragescanbefun,delicious,andnutritious.

FERMENTEDCONNECTIONS

Anotherreasontofermentisforculturalcontinuity.Passingonourgrandmother’srecipesandancestraltraditionstoourchildrenpreservestheselinkstothepast.Understandingthepastisimportantifwewanttohaveachanceatunderstandingtheworldaroundus,achanceatunderstandingourselves,andthebestpossiblechanceathelpingtocreateafutureforcominggenerations.Deprivedofculturesandtraditions,welosesomeofourhumanity.

Yetanotherreasoncouldbestbedescribedasspiritualorenergetic.Today,mostofusinteractalldaywithdigitaltechnology,computers,andremotecommunications.Theelectronicrevolutionhasradicallyandperhapsforeverchangedthewaythatweorganize,interact,connect,andresearch.IthasalsocontinuedtheshiftthathasbeentakingplaceinWesterncultureforcenturies:ashifttowardtherealmoftheabstract,towardtrustingourheads,andawayfromtrustingourbodies,hearts,andintuitions.

Individualsandfamiliesproducelessoftheirownfoodnowthanatanyothertimeinhistory.Reversingthistrendbygrowingfood,preparingfood,andespeciallyfermentingfoodanddrinkisawayforustoengageinaphysicalratherthanabstractwaywitharealmoflifefromwhichwehavebecomeestrangedandbysodoing,reestablishandstrengthenourrelationshipswithourownbodiesandwithourphysicalaspect.Wedevelopgutfeelings,literally,forhowplantsandfoodsbehave.Wediscriminatesubtletiesoftasteandsmell.Webecomemoreattunedtosmallorlargevariationsinhowwefeelafterincorporatingcertainfoodsintoourselves,especiallyifwehavesoughtthosefoodswithaneyetowardimprovingourhealth.

Whenweexperiencesomethingphysically,thephysicalexperienceisprimaryforus,regardlessofwhetherwethinkweunderstandtheexperienceintellectuallyorscientifically.Physicalexperiencecanhelpkeepusgroundedinthephysicalworldatatimewhenthingsaroundusaregettingmoreandmoreabstractandvirtual.Keepingonefootinthephysicalworldisachoicewecanmake,anditwillbenefitussinceweare,atleastinpart,physicalbeings.

WHYFERMENTDRINKSYOURSELF?Dependingonwhereyoulive,youmayalreadybeabletobuyawidevarietyoffermentedbeverages,includingdrinkableyogurts,commercialkefir(which,dependingonyourlocalregulations,maybequitedifferentfromhomemadekefir),kombucha,kvass,fermentedcoconutwater,switchel,andshrub—nottomentionrawapplecidervinegar,whichisn’tdrinkableas-is,butcaneasilybemadeso.Whywouldyouwanttomakethemyourself?

MICROBIALDIVERSITYISONEREASON.Ofnecessity,store-boughtfermentsaremadeundercarefullycontrolledconditions,ofteninoculatedwithafewspecific,knownmicrobialstrains.Youcanseethisonthesideofacartonofyogurt,forexample.Thebeststore-boughtyogurtcontainsonlytwotypesofingredients:

wholemilkandbacterialcultures.Often,thespecificculturesarelisted,andrarelyaretheremorethanthreeorfour.Usingspecificmicrobesmeansthatthesefoodscanbeproducedinlargebatcheswithpredictableresults.Homefermentsoftencontainmuchlargerandmoremysteriousmenageriesofmicrobesthanstore-boughtferments.Thebroaderslateofmicrobescancreateagreatervarietyoftracenutrientsandmaybeabettermatchforourbodies.Afterall,we’renotsureexactlywhichmicrobesornutrientsweneedinourdigestivesystems,sotheshotgunapproachmaybemoreappropriatethanalaserapproach.

COSTISANOTHERREASONTOMAKEYOUROWNFERMENTEDBEVERAGES.Store-boughtfermentedproductsarealmostalwaysmoreexpensivethanacquiringrawmaterialsandfermentingathome.Thismakessensebecauseoftheworkinvolvedinmakingfermentsandofthecostsoftransportingandstoringthem.Thespecificeconomicsofhomefermentationdependonaccesstotheingredients.Forsomepeople,thepriceofaquartofgoodmilkatthestoremaybenottoomuchlowerthanthepriceofaquartofgoodyogurt;ifthisisthecase,itwouldbealmostascheaptobuytheyogurtthantomakeit.Forothers,aspecialcircumstance(suchashavingaccesstoanappletree)maymakeaningredient(applejuice)effectivelyfreeoravailableingreatabundanceduringcertainseasons;thismayleadthemtofocusonaparticularferment(fermentedapplejuice,alsoknownascider).Andsomefermentedbeverages,suchaskombucha,canbemadewithingredientsthatarenearlyuniversallyavailable(teaandsugar),andmakingcanbecheaperthatbuyingbyafactoroften!

HUMANSANDMICROBESInTheBotanyofDesire,MichaelPollanruminatesonthenatureofdomesticationbylookingatourrelationshipswithfourdifferentplants:theapple,thetulip,cannabis,andthepotato.Didwedomesticatetulips,forinstance,byselectingthem,plantingthem,wateringthem,andmovingthemaround?Ordidtheydomesticateus,byseducingussothatwewouldcultivateandmultiplythem?Hisconclusion:Thesestoriesarereallytwosidesofthesamecoin.Humansandtulipsbothbenefitfromtherelationship.Hisothercasestudiesrevealsimilarrelationships.Thesamegoesformanyotherkindsofbeings,amongthemcows,chickens,

dogs,anddomesticcats.Noneofthesewouldexistintheirpresentformwithoutus,norwouldourlivesbethesamewithoutthem.Therearestrainsofbacteria,yeast,andmoldthatcanbeaddedtothislist.

Whenwefermentfood,wecultivate

thesemicrobes,thinkingaboutwhatconditionstheyneedforsurvivalandhowtoguidethemtowardourcommongoal.Evenwhenwearenotfermentingfood,weareinarelationshipwithmicrobes,evenifwe’renotawareofit.Weparticipateinanongoingexchangeofmicrobeswithourenvironmentandwiththeotherhumans(andanimalsandplants)around,viaalloursurfaces,externalandinternal,andviatheair,theearth,andthewater.Themicrobesinintentionallyfermentedfoodshaveevolvedwithhumans,andthereisalotofoverlapbetweenthesemicrobesandtheonesinourguts.Sincethemid-1800s,industrial

societyhasbeenengagedina“waronbacteria.”Theinitialsortieswerevictoriesforus:Pasteurizationgaveusgreatercontroloverfood;andantibioticsenabledustocureconditionsthathadbeenfatalbefore.Ascratchorasmallanimalbitethatmighthaveledtoalostlimbortodeathbeforebecameonlyaminorevent.Wemayhavetakenthingstoofarinthiswar.Wearenowkillingmicrobes

indiscriminately,withbactericidesinsoaps,socks,sippycups,andtoothpastes,andwearefeedingantibioticscarelesslytohumansandtolivestock.Thisisleadingtoanarmsrace,humansvs.microbes—aswedeploynewantibiotics,microbesevolveimmunitytothem.Andthewaythingsaregoingrightnow,themicrobeswillgetthelastlaugh.Excessivehygieneweakensourimmunesystems,whichwearediscoveringaretightlyintertwinedwithourgutbacteria.Excessivehygienealsoacceleratestheselectiveevolutionofdangerousstrainsofbacteria,especiallyinhospitals,where,ironically,themostvulnerableandimmunocompromisedamongusseekrefuge.Wecan’teverkillallthemicrobes,andweareinadvertentlystrengtheningsomeofthemostdangerousones.Whatwastheoriginalgoalofthewaronbacteria?Improvedpublichealth.

Somewherealongtheway,welostsightofthatgoalandbecamefixatedonthefight.Partoftheproblemisthatourrelationshipwithmicrobesissubtleandnot

wellunderstood.Westernmedicalscienceseeksthesimplestandmostgeneralexplanationsforphenomena;thebroadesttheoriesareoftenviewedasthemostdesirable.Thepreferenceforsimplicityismagnifiedbyourpopularpress,withitsneedfor15-secondsoundbitestomatchour15-secondattentionspans.Often,thismeansreducingcomplexphenomenatounrealisticallysimplisticdichotomiesandimperfectanalogies.Ifantibioticsaregood,thenmoreantibioticsmustbebetter.Ifkillingsomemicrobesisgood,thenkillingmoreofthem,orallofthem,mustbebetter.Unfortunately,it’snotthatsimple.Capitalismcontributestothistrend,too,withtheincentivesthatitcreates.

Whenthereismarketdemandforaproduct,antibioticsforexample,andwhencompaniesstartsellingthatproduct,thosecompaniesbecomemotivatedtocreateandsellmoreandmoreofit.Fromabusinesspointofview,thisislogical,especiallywhenapharmaceuticalcompoundhasbeenexpensivetodevelop.Themorepillsthataresold,theeasieritistorecouptheinitialoutlayofmoney.Companiesmaynothavemuchchoice;theirinvestorsdemandmaximizedprofits.Ifcompanyexecutivesdonotdeliver,theirboardswillhirenewexecutives,andthingswillgoonasplanned.Theproblemisthatmaximizingprofitsmayhappenwithoutregardforthegoodoftheircustomersorthepublic.Itisoftendifficulteventodeterminewhatthepublicgoodis.Intheory,governmentandregulatoryagenciesexisttocreatebalanceinthese

situations.Butinpractice,approvalfornewproductscanbequick,fullunderstandingoflong-termeffectsslow,lobbyingdollarspowerful,andmultinationalpoliticsandeconomicscomplexandcorrupt.Tryingtoaddressthesesortsofproblemsonalargescalemayseemdaunting.

Eachofuscanstarttoaddressthemonasmallscale,forourselves,bytakinggreaterchargeofourownfoodandhealthandrethinkingourrelationshipwithmicrobes.Microbeshavemadeuswhatweareandviceversa.Weriseandfallwiththem.

CHAPTERTWO

OURCULTUREDHISTORYFermentationhasbeenpartofthehumanexperience

fromthestart.Wecanonlyguessatsomeofthe

earliestevents,butit’sclearthatfermentsaren’ta

recentfadorinnovation.Humanshavehad

relationshipswithfermentationforalongtime.

THEDRUNKENMONKEYWemayhavedevelopedourtasteforfermenteddrinksevenbeforewewerehuman.AccordingtotheDrunkenMonkey

hypothesis,proposedin2000byDr.RobertDudleyinTheQuarterlyReviewofBiology,ourancestorswereeatingfermentingfruitbeforehumanswereonthescene.Otheranimalsthatweren’tancestorsofhumansweredoingthesame.Thealcoholandvinegarodorgeneratedbypungentoverripefruitmadethefruiteasiertofindbecauseanimalscould“followtheirnose”toitssource.Consumingalcoholinsmallamountscanincreaseshort-termfocus,heightenthesenses,andincreaseappetite,soanimalswhofoundsomerottingfruitwouldhavebeeninabetterpositiontofindmore,thusreinforcingtherotting-fruit-seeking-and-eatingbehavior.(Studieshavedemonstratedthatconsumingalcoholbeforeamealcanincreaseappetiteinmodernhumans,aphenomenonthathasbeendubbed“theapértifeffect.”)Fruit,fermentingornot,wasausefulfoodsource,accessibleonlytoanimals

whocouldfinditandeatit.Theseanimalsgotfoodandcaloriesthatotheranimalsdidnotget,andhencegainedsomeselectivereproductiveadvantage.Sothisbehaviorwasevolutionarilyadaptive,anditspreadthroughpopulations.Tenmillionorsoyearsago,ageneticmutationdrasticallyincreasedour

ancestors’abilitytotoleratealcoholandmayhaveincreasedtheirattractiontoit.Thisfurtherincreasedtheiradvantagesoverotherspecies,andithelped

acceleratesomeofthechangesthatdifferentiatehumansfromotherprimates,leavinguswithatasteforalcohol.TheDrunkenMonkeyHypothesisseemstohavegainedmomentumsinceit

waspublishedin2000,havingbeenthethemeofasymposiumandthesubjectofabookbyDr.DudleyentitledTheDrunkenMonkey:WhyWeDrinkandAbuseAlcohol.Otherresearchersandevencasualobservershaveconfirmedthatwearenot

theonlyprimateswhoenjoyfermenteddrinks.Infact,manyinattentivevacationershavehadtheirdrinksstolenbyaggressivemonkeys.It’shardtoassesstheaccuracyofatheorysuchasthis—ourabilitytoconfirm

orrefuteitislimitedbyouraccesstoeventsfromaverylongtimeago.Nonetheless,itisanintriguingpossibility.

THESTONEDAPELet’salsoconsiderTerenceMcKenna’sStonedApetheory,asproposedinhis1992book,FoodoftheGods:TheSearchfortheOriginalTreeofKnowledge,ARadicalHistoryofPlants,Drugs,andHumanEvolution.HistheorysharessomepointswithDudley’s,buthelooksmoredeeplyintoourancestors’relationshipswithplants,andheincludesmorerecenthistory.Heobservesthathominidevolutionmovesalongatapacemarkedbymillennia,whilebycomparison,humanculture“presentsaspectacleofwildandcontinuousnovelty.”Hemakesacasethatourearlyinteractionswithplantsprofoundlyaffectednotonlyourphysicalevolution,butalsoourculturalandlinguisticevolution.Inhiswords:

Theearlyhominids’adoptionofanomnivorousdietandtheirdiscoveryofthepowerofcertainplantsweredecisivefactorsinmovingearlyhumansoutofthestreamofanimalevolutionandintothefast-risingtideoflanguageandculture.Ourremoteancestorsdiscoveredthatcertainplants,whenself-administered,suppressappetite,diminishpain,supplyburstsofsuddenenergy,conferimmunityagainstpathogens,andsynergizecognitiveactivities.Thesediscoveriessetusonthelongjourneytoself-reflection.Oncewebecametool-usingomnivores,evolutionitselfchangedfromaprocessofslowmodificationofourphysicalformtoarapiddefinitionofculturalformsbytheelaborationofrituals,languages,writing,mnemonicskills,andtechnology.

Theseimmensechangesoccurredlargelyasaresultofthesynergiesbetweenhumanbeingsandthevariousplantswithwhichtheyinteracted

andcoevolved.Anhonestappraisaloftheimpactofplantsonthefoundationsofhumaninstitutionswouldfindthemtobeabsolutelyprimary.

Thishighlightstheimportanceofplants,fermentedplantsamongthem,tohumankind.TwentiethcenturyUnitedStatesculturewaswaryofpowerfulplants—itsaw

theprohibitionofprettymucheverypopularpotentplant-derivedpreparation,includingalcohol.TowardtheendofthecenturyintheUnitedStates,therewassignificantgrowthofinterestingoodwinesandbeers.Theearlytwenty-firstcenturyseesusdecriminalizingcannabisandresumingclinicalresearchintotherapeuticusesofpsilocybinmushrooms.HomefermentationhasgrowngreatlyinpopularityinNorthAmerica.Couldthisbepartofatrendtowardalessadversarialstancetowardnature?Thatisourhope.

FERMENTATIONANDCIVILIZATIONFormostofhumanexistence,humanswerehunter-gatherersorperhapsevenscavengers.Earlyhumanswouldstayaroundonegeographicareaaslongasitprovidedthemthingstohunt,gather,andscavenge;ifthatlocation’sresourcesbecamedepleted,theywouldmoveon.Inmanyplaces,nomadicherderscamenext.Theyhunted,theygathered,and

theyalsoherdedanimals.Iffoodandgrazingwereavailable,theycouldstayput,butiffoodbecameunavailable,theytoowouldneedtodecamp.Twelvethousandorsoyearsago,somegroupsstartedsettlingforlongperiods

oftimeinoneplace,domesticatingandcultivatingcrops.Becausewewereweren’tmovingsomuchandwegrewmorefoodthanwecouldeatimmediately,wewereable,forthefirsttime,tostorefoodforthefuture.ThisriseofsedentaryagriculturemarkedthebeginningoftheAgriculturalRevolutionandthebeginningofwhatsomecall“civilization.”Itledtosettlementswithhigherpopulationdensityandmorepermanentlivingstructures.Itledtothefirststoredwealth,intheformofstoredfood,mostlygraincrops.Anditledtothefirstdramaticinequalityofwealthandstratificationofsocietybecauseonlyafewelitepeopleheldthekeystothegranaries.Italsoseemstohaveledtoalongerworkdayandadeclineinthegeneralstateofhealthforthenon-elites.Partofthedeclineinhealthwasduetopoornutritionbecauselargepartsofthepopulationtookupagrain-heavydietthatdidnotprovidethenutrientsandvarietythatthehunter-gathererdiethad;inatleastsomecases,thesenewly

civilizedfolkweremeasurablyshorterthantheirhunter-gathererforebears,andtheirskullsshowedmoresignsofunder-development,malnourishment,anddentaldisease.Anotherpartofthehealthdeclinewasduetotheriseofinfectiousdisease,madepossiblebytheincreasedpopulationdensityofthenewsettlements,whichacceleratedthepropagationofnewkindsofinfectiousagents.Thuscharacterized,civilizationdoesnotsoundcompelling.Perhapssedentary

agriculturewas,asJaredDiamondplainlyputitinthetitleofa1987article,“TheWorstMistakeintheHistoryoftheHumanRace.”Althoughitmayhavebeenagoodthingforthewealthy,agriculturewasnotanimmediateadvantageforeveryoneelse.Theadvancementofcivilizationcreatedmorework,morecrowded

conditions,andmoresickness.(Somepeoplehavethesamecomplaintsaboutlifetoday.)Sowhydidweevenbother?Whydidthecivilizedwayoflifewinoutoverhuntingandgathering?Andthere’snodoubtthatithas:Bytheendofthetwentiethcentury,civilization’svictoryoverthehunter-gathererswasnearlycomplete.Itwouldbenaivetoascribetheriseofcivilizationtoanysinglefactor.And

it’sworthconsideringthatthemostsuccessfulsocietiespoliticallyandmilitarilyarenotalwaysthemostpleasantonesinwhichtolive.Qualityoflifedoesnotalwaysdrivehistory.Havingsaidthat,onereasontheseearlyagriculturalistsmighthavesettled

downtogrowngrainwassothattheycouldmakebread.Earlysedentaryagriculturalistsdidmakebread.Buttheyalsomadebeer.Andinthe1950sintheUnitedStates,startingwith

J.D.Sauer,theBeerBeforeBreadtheoryemerged,makingthecasethatbeer,notbread,wastheprimaryreasonforgrowinggrain.(“PintsoverPastry,”quipsa2013articleinNautilusmagazine.)Infact,beerhasnutritionaladvantagesoverbreadandiseasiertomakeinsomeways,sothisideaisnotfar-fetched.Anddrinkingbeersoundslikemorefunthaneatingbread.Perhapshumanssettledincitiessothattheycouldhavebeer!ThousandsofyearsbeforetheBeerBeforeBreadtheory,theClassicalGreek

historianandgeneralThucydidesreportedlywrote:“ThepeoplesoftheMediterraneanbegantoemergefrombarbarismwhentheylearnedtocultivatetheoliveandthevine.”TheAncientGreekswerebigwinedrinkers,notsomuchbeer.Butthismillennia-oldassertionisanalogousinsomewaystothemodernBeerBeforeBreadtheory.Coulditbethatfermentedbeveragesdomesticatedhumans?

FERMENTATIONANDHEALTHAssettlementsgrewintocities,earlyurbanitesgainedsomebenefitfromfermentedbeverages.Forinstance,AncientGreeksandRomanswereknowntodrinktheirwinemixedwithwater.Whywouldyoumixwinewithwater?Thismayhavebeendrivenbypracticalratherthanculinaryconsiderations.First,winemayhavebeenscarceorexpensive.Second,itmighthavebeentoostrongforall-daydrinking.Butthird,andpossiblymostinterestingly,thewinemayhavebeenaddedtothewaterratherthanviceversa.Winewouldhavebeenaddedtowatertotreatthewater,makingitsaferto

drink.AncientGreeksandRomanswerealsoknowntodrinkwaterwithvinegarinit,verylikelyforthesamereason—toneutralizesomewater-bornepathogens.Infact,thelinebetweenwineandvinegarmighthavebeenmorefluidbackthen.Wildyeastandlesshygienicconditionsmayhaveledtowinethatwasmoresourtostartwith.Theymaynotalwayshavebeenmeticulousaboutkeepingtheirwineinairtightcontainersallthetime,leadingtoaquickertransitiontovinegar.Butwine,beingvaluable,wouldnothavebeenthrownawayevenwhenitbecamesour.ThisrelationshipwithwineonitswaytovinegarmightofferanewperspectiveonthepassagesintheNewTestament(MatthewandMark)inwhichJesusofNazareth,whiledying,isofferedaspongesoakedinvinegar(presumablydilutedwithwater).Thissoundslikeanoddthingtooffersomeonewhoisdying,butatthetime,itmayhavemadeperfectsense.Therewasevenanameforthisdrinkofwatered-downvinegar:posca.Beyondtheiruseforsanitizingwater,fermenteddrinkswereusedascarriers

formedicinalplantsandherbs.Manyplantcomponentsaremoresolubleinalcoholthaninwater,andalcoholsolutionskeepbetter,somanyancientmedicinesweredeliveredinanalcoholbase.Wecanseethevestigesofthistodayinourherbalwinesandliqueurswhoseoriginsweremedicinal.Vermouth,literally“wormwood,”wasawineinfusedwiththewormwoodplant,whichkilledparasitesintheintestines.Whenitbecameavailable,adistilled(strong)alcoholbaseforherbalpotions

becamepopularbecausestrongeralcoholisamoreeffectivesolvent.Thepiquantherbalbouquetofginrevealsitssignatureherbalingredient,juniper,whichhaspurportedrespiratory,hormonal,anddigestivebenefits.Chartreuseisanherballiqueurparexcellencethatwasoriginallyintendedasanelixirforlonglifeandapanacea.Itisreportedtocontain130differentherbs,plants,andflowers.Theexactingredientlistisacloselyguardedsecret,knowntoonlytwolivingmonksatanytime.

Inthe1980s,whileanalyzing1,500-year-oldNubianbonesfromwhatisnowSudan,scientistGeorgeArmelagosmadeastartlingdiscovery.Thesebonesshowedevidenceofexposuretolargedosesofmodernantibiotics.Eventually,ArmelagosandchemistMarkNelsonco-authoredapaperinwhichtheyconcludedthatthisNubianpopulationhadbeenintentionallybrewingbeermadewithaStreptomycesmicrobethatproducedtetracycline.Tetracyclineisamodernantibiotic—itissoimportanttodaythatitisontheWorldHealthOrganization’sModelListofEssentialMedicines.Armelagosdescribeshowsurprisingthisdiscoverywas:“IfyouwereunwrappinganEgyptianmummyandsuddenlyithadRay-Bansunglassesonit,that’swhatitwaslikewithus.”Andthesebrewersfrom500CEseemtohavebeenmakingitintentionally.Whenantibioticswererediscoveredinthefirsthalfofthetwentiethcentury,

theywerealsoby-productsoffermentation,inthiscaseproducedbythePenicilliumnotatummold.Soinmoderntimesasinthepast,microbesandfermentationplayanimportantroleinmedicineandpublichealth.

FERMENTATIONANDRELIGIONFermenteddrinksaresoimportanttoreligionthatevenduringprohibitionintheUnitedStates,Americanscouldlegallydrinkwineinceremonialcontexts.Infact,fermenteddrinkshaveplayedcentralrolesinreligionandritualfromAncientGreecetomoderntimes.Hereareafewexamples.Thelibationisaritualinwhichsomeamountofadrink,usuallyalcoholic,is

pouredontheground.Dependingonwhereandwhenittakesplace,thelibationmightbeanofferingtoadeity,aspirit,ortheearthherself.InAncientGreeceandRome,thegodsofwine(DionysusorBacchus,respectively)andothergodswouldreceivethisobservanceonceadayandmorefrequentlyonimportant

occasions.Throughouthistory,ithasparallelsinculturesinAfrica,AsiaandSouthAsia,andtheAmericas.Today,libationsindifferentculturesareofferedvariouslyfortheSaints,fortheDevil,andfor“myhomies”(i.e.,friends,inthiscase,generallydeceased).WineplaysanimportantroleinthespiritualtraditionofJudaismaswell.

ThereisaritualprayeroverwineatthebeginningoftheSabbatheveryweek,anditisusedtousherinmostholidays.AproperPassoversederinvolvesdrinkingfourglassesofwineinonenight—beforethemealevenstarts!TheEucharist,ortheHolyCommunion,isanimportantriteinmanyChristian

churches.Inthisrite,areenactmentoftheLastSupper,breadandwinearesanctified,meaningtheybecomethebodyandthebloodofChristorbecomeassociatedwithit.Thebreadmaybeunleavened(unfermented),aswouldhavebeenthecaseattheLastSupper.Orbycontrast,inEasternchurches,fermentedleavenedbreadisusedforcommunion,withtheyeastinthebreadsymbolizingtheHolySpirit!BeforetheSpanishconquestinwhatisnowMexico’scentralhighlands,the

magueyplantplayedacrucialroleinthelifeoftheAztecs.AstheGreeksandRomanshadforwine,theAztecshadadeityformaguey—thegoddessMayahuel.Pulque,thefermentedsapofthemaguey,wasnormallyreservedfortheroyalfamily,forpriests,forretirees,andforthosebeingputtodeath.Everyoneelsecouldhaveitonlyoccasionallyduringreligiousceremonies.Amoremoderncommentatoronreligion,BenjaminFranklin,wroteinaletter

tol’abbéAndréMorellet,probablyin1779:“Voilàl’eauquitombedescieuxsurnosvignobles;là,elleentrelesracinesdesvignespourêtrechangéeenvin;preuveconstantequeDieunousaime,etqu’ilaimeànousvoirheureux.”Thatis,“Seetheretherainthatfallsfromtheskiesuponourvineyards;there,itenterstherootsofthevinestobechangedintowine;constantevidencethatGodlovesus,andthatGodlovestoseeushappy.”

CHAPTERTHREE

FERMENTATION,SCIENCE,ANDHEALTHYoucanmakefermenteddrinkswithoutanadvanced

degreeinbiochemistryormicrobiology.Afterall,

humansfermentednicelyforthousandsortensof

thousandsofyearsbeforeanyonehadheardof

microbes.

Nonetheless,itcanbehelpfultohaveamentalmodelforwhat’sgoingonwhenyouferment.Havingamodelisparticularlyhelpfulwhenthingsdon’tgothewayyouhopedtheywould,soyouhavesomeideaofwhatsortsofchangesmightresultinabetteroutcome.Alittlebitofunderstandingcangoalongway.Thestudyofbiochemistryprovidesone

suchmodel.

TEACHINGVESSELS

Biochemistryisnottheonlymodelforhowfermentationworks.Differentcultureshavedifferentmodelsthatmaybejustashelpful,ormaybemorehelpful,evenifthesemodelsmightnotbeas“scientific”orasbroadlyapplicableorgeneralizabletootherphenomena.

Forinstance,someculturesbelievethatthevesselstheyhaveusedtofermentaresacred.Whenusinganewvesselforthefirsttime,theywillplaceitamongsomeveteranvesselssotheoldonescan“teach”thenewone.Thistacticworksequallywellwhetheryoubelievethattheagentoffermentationisaspiritoramicrobe.

CRASHCOURSEINBIOCHEMISTRY

Atomsareindividualchemicalbuildingblocksofmatter.Weknowofmorethan100differenttypesofatoms,calledelements;you’veprobablyheardofmanyofthem,includinghydrogen,oxygen,carbon,andnitrogen.Forthisdiscussion,let’sassumethatallatomsofthesameelementareinterchangeableandbehaveidentically.(Thisisnotquitetrue,butcloseenoughforourpurposes.)We’llalsoassumethatatomsofoneelementcan’tchangeintotheatomsofanother.(Thisisalsonotquitetrue.)Moleculesareclumpsofatomsjoinedinspecificthree-dimensional

arrangements.Iftwomoleculesconsistofthesameatomsstucktogetherinthesamearrangement,theyaresaidtobethesamechemicalcompound.Someexamplesofcompoundsarewater(twohydrogenatomsandoneoxygen,H2O),carbondioxide(CO2),oxygengas(O2),tablesugar(sucrose,C12H22O11),drinkingalcohol(ethanol,C2H6O),andaceticacid(theacidinvinegar,C2H4O2).Thesamecollectionofatomscan

sometimesbestucktogetherinadifferentwaytoproduceadifferentcompound.Forinstance,glucose(alsoknownasdextrose),fructose,andgalactoseallhavethesamechemicalformula,oringredientlist—C6H12O6—butwithinthemoleculesofeachofthesecompounds,theatomsarearrangeddifferently.Wecallcompoundswithidenticalformulasisomers.(Isomermeans“equalparts”inGreek.)Isomersmayexhibitdifferentchemicalandphysicalpropertiesbecauseoftheirdifferentspatialgeometries.

Whenacollectionofatomsormoleculescombinesand/orsplits,resultinginadifferentcollection,thisiscalledachemicalreaction.Anexampleofachemicalreactioniswhenethylalcohol(ethanol)andoxygengascombine,resultinginaceticacid(alsoknownasethanoicacidandthekeycomponentinvinegar)and

water.Thisisthereactionthatmakesyourwineturnsourwhenit’sexposedtoair.Itcanberepresentedasfollows:

C2H6O+O2→C2H4O2+H2Oethanol+oxygen→

ethanoic(acetic)acidpluswater

(Asthechemistsintheaudienceareaware,thischaracterizationisasignificantoversimplificationofthesituation.)

ELEMENTSOFALCHEMY

Foralongtime,mainstreamscientiststhoughtthatelementswereimmutable.Renegadesknownasalchemiststhoughtotherwiseandspenttheirtimetryingtotransmuteoneelementintoanother.Thealchemistsweremockedfortheirbelief.Butitturnsoutthattheywereright,althoughitwasnotuntilthediscoveryofnuclearreactionsthatweunderstoodhowitwaspossibletotransmuteelements.

Ifyoucountthetotalnumberofatomsofeachelementontheleftandrightsidesofthearrow,you’llseethatthey’rethesame.Thisistrueofanychemicalreaction(althoughasnotedbefore,itisnottrueofnuclear,oralchemical,reactions).Sometimes,heatisincreasedbythereaction.Thisiscalledanexothermicreaction.Ifheatisconsumed,thenitisanendothermicreaction.Metabolismisthesumtotalofallthechemicalreactionsthathappeninsidean

organismtokeepitalive,includingreactionsthatreleaseenergyfortheorganism’suse,reactionsthatcreatephysicalbuildingblocks,reactionsthatplayrolesinotherprocessesoftheorganism’sbody,andmore.Metabolismisinterestingtousforafewreasons.First,withoutmetabolismtherewouldbenolife.Butalso,themetabolicprocessesofmicrobesproduce,asby-products,theacids,alcohols,flavors,andbubblesthatconstitutefermenteddrinks.Proteinsarelargemoleculeswithcomplexshapesthatcanfittogetherlike

puzzlepieces,orlikekeysinlocks,withothermolecules.Whentheyjoinlikethis,interestingthingscanhappen.Thisgeneralmechanismunderliesmostlifeprocesses.Enzymes,forourpurposes,areproteinsthatcatalyzeparticularbiochemical

reactions—theirpresenceenablesreactionstohappenundercircumstanceswheretheywouldnothaveotherwise,orenablesthemtohappenquickerthan

theywouldhaveotherwise.Alllivingorganismsproduceenzymesinordertoaccelerateandfavorcertainchemicalmetabolicreactions.Forexample,digestiveenzymesplayanimportantroleindigestion.Carbohydratesaremoleculescontainingcarbon,hydrogen,andoxygenin

certainproportionsandarrangements.Sugars,starches,andfibersareallvarietiesofcarbohydrate.Whenlargercarbohydratesbreakdown,oftenwiththehelpofenzymes,theybecomesmallercarbohydrates,andultimately,theybecomesimplesugars.Simplesugars,ormonosaccharides,arethesmallestcarbohydrates.Thekey

monosaccharidesinfermentationareglucose,fructose,andgalactose—allisomersofC6H12O6.Glucose,alsoknownasdextrose,isthesimplesugarmosteasilymetabolized;fructoseisasimplesugarfoundinmanyfruitsthatcanbeconvertedbythebodyintoglucose;andfinally,galactoseisacomponentinmilksugarandcanalsobeconvertedintoglucose.Disaccharidesarecarbohydratesconsistingoftwosimplesugars.Themost

importantdisaccharidesaresucrose,lactose,andmaltose.Roughlyspeaking,sucroseisaglucoseplusafructose;lactoseisaglucoseplusagalactose;andmaltoseistwoglucoses.Oligosaccharidesarecarbohydratesconsistingofatleasttwobutnomore

thanten-ishsimplesugars.Polysaccharidesarecarbohydratesconsistingoftwoorthreeormoresimplesugars.Complexcarbohydratesarecarbohydratesconsistingofmanysimplesugars(there’snospecificnumber).Microbesaremicroscopiclivingorganisms.Althoughtheindividual

organismsaremicroscopic,coloniesofthemcansometimesbecomevisibletothehumaneye.Thekeymicrobesforfermentationarebacteria,yeasts,andmolds.Bacteriaaresingle-celledorganismsandsomeoftheoldestformsoflifeon

theearth,datingbackatleast3.5billionyears.Yeastsaremorecomplicatedsingle-celledorganismsthathavebeenaround

forhundredsofmillionsofyears.Moldsarebiologicallysimilartoyeastsinsomeways,butgrowin

multicellularagglomerations.Whatdoesallofthisscientifictheoryhavetodowithfermenteddrinks?Somebacteriaandyeastscancleavedisaccharidesandtoalesserextent

biggerpolysaccharidesintosimplesugars.Thentheycanconvertthesimplesugarsintoacids,alcohol,andgasses.That’swhatgetsusfermenteddrinks—sour,fizzy,andsometimesalcoholic.Asimplelacticacidreactionlookslikethis:

C6H12O6→2×C3H6O3glucose→2moleculesoflacticacid

Amorecomplicatedonelookslikethis:

C6H12O6→C3H6O3+C2H6O+CO2glucose→lacticacid+ethanol+carbondioxide

Acid,alcohol,andbubbles—nowwe’retalking!

Somebacteriaconvertethylalcoholintoaceticacid,viaareactionwesawearlier:

C2H6O+O2→C2H4O2+H2Oethanol+oxygen→

acetic(ethanoic)acidpluswater

FERMENTINGWITHMOLD

Moldsarekeytosomekindsoffermenteddrinks—ricefermentssuchasamazake,traditionalsojuandshōchū,andsake.Thesedrinkswerenotincludedinthisbookbecausetheyarehardertomake,andtheymaynotcoexisthappilyinproximitytootherferments—thatis,theyinvolvemorework,requiremoretemperaturecontrol,andaresensitivetocross-contaminationfrombacterialferments.

Sakemaybethekingofmold-fermenteddrinks.Itisnotaprojecttobeundertakenlightly—makingsakecantakethebetterpartofayear!Andthereareotherimportantfermentedfoodsinvolvingmolds.Notableexamplesincludemanysortsofcheeses(suchasbluecheesesandbloomy-rindcheeses);driedsausages;traditionally-brewedsoysauce;andmiso.

Areactionwherebyyeastsconvertglucoseorfructoseintoalcohollookslikethis:

C6H12O6→2×C2H6O+2×CO2glucoseorfructose→2moleculesofethanol

+2moleculesofcarbondioxide

Thisyeastreactioniskeytoalmostallalcoholicdrinks,aswellas(leavened)bread.Again,thesearehugesimplifications,andthesearebynomeanstheonly

reactionsthattakeplace,buttheydogiveusamentalpictureofwhat’shappening.Whenwearefermentingadrink,allthesugarsandstarches(carbohydrates)in

thestartingformulagenerallydooneoffourthings:theyremaincarbohydrates;theybecomealcohols;theybecomeacids;and/orsomesmallamountmayevaporate.“Serious”brewerstakeadvantageofthisequation,estimatingalcohollevelsindirectlybymeasuringorinterpolatingthedensityandsugarleveloftheirliquidatdifferentstagesinthebrewingprocess.Howmuchsugargetsconvertedintowhatdependsonavarietyoffactors,but

thegeneraltrendisfromsugartoalcoholtoacid.Understandingandinternalizingthisconceptcanhelpusadjustourformulasandprocesses.Forinstance,ifyou’remakingTepache(apineapplewine—seehere)andyou’dlikeittohavemorealcohol,youmightneedtoaddmoresugarandletitfermentforlonger,oryoumightneedtorestrictaccesstooxygensoonertoslowdowntheconversiontoacid.Orifyou’dlikeittobelesssour,youcouldtryfermentingitforashorterperiod(althoughtepachewillalwaysbeprettysour!)and/orrestrictingaccesstooxygen.Finally,ifyourdrinkfermentingexperimentfails,youmaystillbeabletogetanicevinegaroutofit,justbygivingitfullaccesstooxygenandlettingitfermentuntilallthesugarandallthealcoholhavebecomeacid.

WHATISHEALTH?Healthisasurprisinglysubtleconcept.It’smostsimplydefinedas“thestateofbeingfreefromillnessorinjury.”This

isastart,butit’sinadequate.Ittalksaboutwhathealthisn’t,notdirectlyaboutwhathealthis.It’squiteabstractandevenpossiblycircular:Whatisillnessifnot“theabsenceofhealth?”TheWorldHealthOrganizationgoesfurther,sayingthat“[health]isastateof

completephysical,mental,andsocialwell-beingandnotmerelytheabsenceofdiseaseorinfirmity.”Thisgivesusabitmoretoholdonto.Ifhealthisnotmerelytheabsenceofdiseaseandinfirmity,maybeit’stheoppositeofdiseaseandinfirmity—easeandrobustness?Easeandrobustnessseemtobegoodindicatorsofhealth.Buteventhislastdefinitionleavessomethingtobedesired.Itsoundsabsolute

andunachievable.

Wemightdobettertothinkofhealthasaspectrumandtothinkofitasbeingassessedwithaparticularcontextinmind.Lifeformscanexistinvaryingdegreesofhealth.Furthermore,astateofbeingthatmightbeoptimalinonecontextmightnotbeoptimalinanother.Perhapswecanthinkofhealthasameasureofthedegreetowhichyourbody,mind,andspiritaresuitedtothecontextinwhichyoulive,allowingyoutogoaboutyourbusinesswitheaseandrobustness.Optimalhealthforahunter-gatherercouldbedifferentfromoptimalhealthfor

acheforanofficeworker.Youcouldarguethathumansevolvedtobehunter-gatherersandnotdesk-sitters,andsohealthshouldbemeasuredbyourhunter-gathererfitness;butthemajorityofhumans,includingmostofthosereadingthisbook,arenothunter-gatherers.So,thepointseemsmoot.Let’sfocusontheideaofimprovinghealth,oroptimizinghealth,forone

individualhuman(andnecessarilyforherorhisconcomitantecosystemofmicrobes!)inthathuman’scontext.Animprovementofhealthisachangethatmakeslifeeasierandincreasesresilience.Differentpeoplefacedifferenthealthchallenges.Someofuswouldliketo

loseweight,andsomeofusurgentlyneedtoloseweight.Excessweightisoftenaresultofametabolicissue,adigestiveone,and/orabehavioralorpsychologicalone.Excessweightcorrelateswithtype2diabetes.Othersofushavechallengesthatpresentexplicitlydigestivesymptoms—acidreflux,gasandbloating,andproblemswithelimination.(Thinkbacktothe“opioid-inducedconstipation”fromchapter1;inthiscase,thepathogenesisisclear.)Problemstypicallyseenasnutritionaldeficienciescanoftenbetracedto

problemsofincompletedigestion.Apropensitytowardfrailnessandcatchingcoldsandfluorflu-likemaladiespointstowardaweakimmunesystem,whichisbeingincreasinglyunderstoodaslinkedtogutmicrobiology.Long-termachesandpainsorallergiesmayindicateautoimmuneproblems,whichmeans(giveortake)thatyourimmunesystemis“confused”aboutsomethingthat’sgoingoninyourbody—thistoomayhaveitsrootandmayfinditsresolutioninthegut.Finally,someinscrutable,difficult-to-treatconditions,Parkinson’sandautism

forinstance,seemtocorrelatewithchangesingutphysiology.Mainstreammedicineisjuststartingtoexplorethesegutconnections.Alternativemedicinepractitionershavebeenadecadeortwo(orperhapsafewcenturies!)aheadonnoticingtheseconnections.Ifyou’reinterested,checkoutthebookGutandPsychologySyndromebyDr.NatashaCampbell-McBride.Agoodmanyoftoday’sbiggesthealthproblemsseemtobegut-related,even

iftheydonotimmediatelyseemlikedigestiveproblems.

Furthermore,differentpeople’sbodiesreactdifferentlytochangesindietandbehavior.Thisisafacetofaconceptknownasbio-individuality:weareallthesamespecies,andourgeneticsareverysimilar,butourbodiesworkdifferently,andwhathelpsonepersonmayhurtanother.Sowhendiscussingthehealthbenefitsoffermentedfoodsforyou,it’s

importanttokeepinmindwhatyourhealthgoalsare.Doyouhavespecificissuesyou’retryingtoaddress?Ordoyoufeelgoodaboutyourhealth,andyouwanttodoeverythingyoucantomaintainit?Readthissectionofthebookwithaneyetowardyourownspecificgoals,and

itmayhelpyoufocusyourenergytohelpachievethem!

HEALTHBENEFITSWe’vestartedhearingmoreandmoreaboutthehealthbenefitsoffermentedfoodsanddrinks.It’snolongerafringetopic—todayeventhemainstreammediaareaddressingit.Butthemainstreammediaareoftennotabletospendsufficienttimeonsubtle

subjectssuchasthisone,andtheyoftendonotprovideenoughcontextformeaningfuldiscussionsaboutpublichealth.Ontopofthat,themediaareoverlyeagertoquantifythings,assigningunrealisticallyprecisenumbersandpercentagessothattheycansoundmore“scientific”incaseswherethesenumbersarenotterriblymeaningful.Forinstance,evenifascientificstudycalculatesapercentagereductionintherateofsomediseasethatiscorrelatedwithsomedietorlifestylechange,thatpercentagemaybeonlyvaguelyrelevanttoanygivenindividual,andotherfactorsmaybemuchmoreimportantthanthatparticularchange.Thatsaid,whatarethehealthbenefitsoffermenteddrinks,andwhat’sthebest

waytodiscussthem?Morespecifically:Howcouldconsumingthisfermenteddrinkaffectmyhealth,comparedwithdrinkingnothingatall?Anotherrelatedquestionmightbe:Howcouldthisfermenteddrinkaffectmyhealth,comparedwithunfermentedalternatives?Somealternativesmightincluderawdrinks,pasteurizedorultra-pasteurizeddrinks,sugaryindustrialsodas,sportsdrinks,distilledalcoholdrinks,andwater.Herearesomeofthewaysinwhichfermenteddrinkscanhelpsupportour

health.Notallthebenefitsarefullyunderstood,andnoteveryfermenteddrinkprovideseverybenefit—whichisagoodreasontoconsumeaswideavarietyoffermenteddrinksasispracticalforyou,whereveryouareonyourfermenteddrinkjourney.

FERMENTEDDRINKSCONTAINLIVE,“FRIENDLY”MICROBES.

Furthermore,theydon’tcontainpathogenic,“bad”ones.Exclusionofbadmicrobesisoneofthekeyadvantagesoffermenteddrinksoverwaterandfreshdrinks.Withoutbadmicrobes,adrinkissaferandlesslikelytomakeussick.Friendlymicrobesaresimilaroridenticaltosomeofthemicrobesthatare

necessaryforahealthyhumangut.(Thisisnotacoincidence—thesemicrobeshaveevolvedalongside,andinside,us.)Mostofthemicrobesthatweingestdonotsurvivethelongjourneythroughourdigestivesystem;there’ssomedebateaboutexactlyhowmanydosurvive,butit’sverylikelythatsomeofthemdo,judgingfromthekindsofhealthchangesthatpeoplereportwhentheystartconsumingfermentedproducts.Takingprobioticsupplementpillsisanotherwaytoingestmicrobes.These

pillsaregenerallycoatedtoensurethesurvivalofmanyofthemicrobesintoourgut.Butthesesupplementsdonotnecessarilycontainthewidevarietyofmicrobesthatahomefermentcontains.Andifthey’renottransportedandstoredcarefully,probioticsupplementscandie.(Bycontrast,bubblyfermenteddrinksareprettyclearlyalive.)Whenweingestmicrobes,bywhatevermeans,someofthemjoinandinteract

withthemicrobesalreadyinourbodies,strengtheningourownbiologicalprocessessuchasdigestionandimmunefunction.Inaddition,giventheirshortlifecycle,it’spossiblethatthemicrobesinourgutliterallyevolveinresponsetotheirenvironment;soevenifwedon’tingestthemicrobesweneed,theymightbecomethemicrobeswe’relookingforsomewheredowntheroad.Ahealthygutfloracanhelpusmaintainorevenrestoretheliningofourgut.

Thisimprovesourbody’sresistancetobadmicrobesthatmightleadtosymptomsoffoodpoisoning;itdecreasesthedegreetowhichinorganictoxins(heavymetalsforinstance)areabsorbedintoourbody;itdecreasesthetendencyforpartially-digestedproteinstopassintoourblood,provokingundesirableimmuneresponses;anditmayhelpusinotherwaysthatwedonotyetunderstand.

UNFILTEREDFERMENTEDDRINKSOFTENCONTAINYEAST.

Yeast,aliveordead,isasourceofvariousBvitaminsandcanbeasourceofsmallamountsofproteinandofsomeimportanttracemineralssuchasseleniumandchromium.Fermenteddrinkscanalsocontainotherimportantnutrients,includingAandCvitamins,Kvitamins,enzymes,andantioxidantsofvarioussortsthatweareonlystartingtounderstand(polyphenols,flavonoids,resveratrol,etc.).

MANYVITAMINSANDALLENZYMESAREDESTROYEDBYEXPOSURETOHEAT.

Thisdenaturinghappensprogressivelybetweenapproximately118°Fand180°F(48°Cand82°C).Fermentingwithoutheatleavesvitaminsandenzymesintact.Thisdifferentiatesfermenteddrinksfrom,say,unfermentedstore-boughtfruitjuice,almostallofwhichispasteurized.

FERMENTEDDRINKSCONTAINACIDS,ALCOHOLS,OR(USUALLY)ABITOFBOTH.

Bothhavethepotentialtokeeppathogenicmicrobesatbay,stavingoffdigestiveproblems,andincreasingthelifespanoffood.Andformostpeople,consumptionofsmalltomoderateamountsofalcoholcanprovidebenefitstothecardiovascularsystem,tothenervoussystem(includingbrainfunction),andtotheliver.Itcanincreaselibidoandappetiteforfood.Ofcourse,toomuchalcoholcancauseproblems.Thedosemakesthepoison,astheSwiss-GermanphilosopherParacelsusobservedinthe1500s.Thisisacaseinwhichwemustreininourdesiretoseetheworldinsimple,good-vs.-badterms.

FERMENTEDDRINKSCANBEMOREDIGESTIBLETHANTHEIRRAWCOUNTERPARTS.

Certainfoodscontainstarchesthataredifficulttodigest.Forexample,eatingalotofrawcabbagecanleadtogas.Butfermentedcabbagecontainsfewerofthesetrickystarches—microbeshavepredigestedsomeofthem.Soeatingsauerkrautorkimchi,ordrinkingjuicedkrautorkimchi,cangiveyouthebenefitsofthecabbage,plusthebenefitsoffermentation,withoutthedigestivechallenges.

FERMENTATIONCANINCREASETHEBIOAVAILABILITYOFNUTRIENTSTHATOCCURNATURALLYINFOODS.

Phyticacid,forinstance,isacompoundthatoccursinfoodsanddrinks.Itbindscertainmineralsinawaythatcausesthemtopassthroughthebodyundigested.Fermentationcanbreakdownphyticacid,providingusaccesstomineralsthatotherwisewouldhavebeenlost.

FERMENTEDDRINKSDON’TUSEINDUSTRIALPRESERVATIVESANDMETHODS.

Industrialchemicalpreservativesandphysicalprocessesaregoodatpreservingfood.Unfortunately,someofthemarediscoveredtobetoxic,maybecarcinogenic,sometimesmanyyearsaftertheyareintroduced.Neitherfoodregulatorsnorindustrialproducerswanttoarrangeandperformthe20-or30-yearexperimentsthatwouldbenecessarytofigurethesethingsoutbeforemarketreleases.Theexperimentisdoneonthepublic.Thechoiceisyours:Wouldyouliketobepartoftheexperimentgroupandingestthesenewthings,

manyneverseenbeforebythehumanbody?Orwouldyouliketobepartofthecontrolgroupandnotingestthem?

FERMENTEDDRINKSVERSUSOTHERDRINKS

Howdoesthecompetitionstackup?

•WATER:Comparedwithwater,fermenteddrinkscontainmoreminerals,morevitamins,andsometimesmoreprotein.Microbiologically,they’resaferbecauseoftheacids,thealcohols,andthemicrobesthattheycontain.

•RAWFRUITJUICE:Comparedwithrawfruitjuice,fermenteddrinkscontainmoreprobioticmicrobes,morenutrients,andmorebeneficialacids.Theycanalsocontainsignificantlylesssugar.Andfermenteddrinksaresafertodrink,haveasignificantlylongershelflife,andaremoredigestible.Theymayalsocontainsomealcohol.

•CANNEDFRUITJUICE:Cannedandboxedjuicesareheat-treated,sotheylosetheenzymesandsomeofthevitaminsthatfreshjuicesmayhave,andsomeofthemcontainindustrialpreservativesaswell.Sometimessyntheticvitaminsareaddedbackin,butonlytheonesthatweknowaboutandsometimesinformsthatmaynotbeasbioavailable.Theonlyadvantagethatcannedjuiceshaveoverfreshonesistheirshelflife.Fermenteddrinkswinagain.Andinfact,fermentingcanbeanexcellentwayofremedyingthe“deadness”ofthecannedandboxedjuices,impartingenzymes,vitamins,andlivemicrobestothem.

•MILK:Ultra-pasteurizedmilkissimilarinmanywaystocannedorboxedjuice.Itisshelf-stableanddead.Itusedtobesoldinrectangularboxes,butwhenthepublicintheUnitedStatesrejectedtheseboxes,dairydistributorsputtheboxedmilkbackintofamiliarcartonsandputitbackintherefrigeratedsection;thisillusionofperishabilityhelpssales.Pasteurizedmilkisalittlebetterthanultra-pasteurizedmilk,butnotmuch.Fermentingeitherofthesemilksintokefiroryogurtcangiveitnewlife.(Somepeoplereportdifficultiesfermentingultra-pasteurizedmilk;othersencounternoproblems.)

•SODA:Industrialsodasgenerallycontainnonutrientsorenzymeswhatsoever;havealotofsugar,ofteninformsthatleadtoweightgainanddiabetes;andhavepotentiallyproblematicingredients,suchasphosphoricacidandlargeamountsofcaffeine.Naturalfermentedsodasarebetterthanindustrialsodasineveryway.

•SPORTSDRINKS:So-calledsportsdrinksaremostlywater,withtheadditionofspiffycoloring,refinedsalt,highfructosecornsyrup,artificialsweetenersandflavorings,someoilorglycoltoimpartmouthfeel,andsomesortofacidtomakethemtastelesssweet.Comparethiswithsaltylemonade,madewithsaltypreserved(fermented)lemonsandsomesugar.Orcomparewithapint(500ml)ofwaterwithatablespoon(15g)ofsugarandapinchofseasalt;inthiscase,theprimarybenefitmaynotcomefromthefermentation,butsimplyfromnotdrinkingthesportsdrink.You’rebetteroffreplacingitwithalmostanythingwithapinchofsaltandbitofnaturalsugar!

•COFFEEANDTEA:Coffeeandteahavemanyinterestingqualities,potentialbenefits,andpotentialchallenges—toomanytodiscusshere.Fortunately,sweetenedteaandcoffeearefermentable,quitedeliciously(seeKombucha).

CHAPTERFOUR

BEFOREYOUSTARTTherecipesinthisbooksharemanytools,concepts,

andingredients,someofwhicharedescribedhere.

Beforeyoustartshopping,keepinmindthatyoudon’t

needeverytoolforeveryrecipe.Infact,ifyouarea

devoutminimalist,youcangetbywithnothingmore

thanatablespoonmeasureandafewMasonjars.This

chapterwillhelpyouthinkaboutthetoolsyoualready

have,howyoucanusethem,whatyoumaywantor

need,andwhatyoumaynotneed.

MEASURINGTOOLS

YOUWILLNEEDTHEFOLLOWING:

■Asmalldigitalkitchenscale

■Measuringcups,pitchers,orothervesselswithmeasurementmarkingsonthesides(someMasonjarshavemarkings)

■Tablespoonandteaspoonmeasures

Peopleindifferentpartsoftheworldusedifferentsystemsofmeasurement.IntheUnitedStates,wemostlyuseU.S.customaryunits,whichincludeteaspoons,tablespoons,ounces,cups,pints,quarts,andgallons.Muchoftherestoftheworldusethemetricsystem,whichincludesgramsforweight,litersforvolume,andfractionsandmultiplesofgramsandliters.TheU.S.systemdistinguishesliquidvolumemeasurementanddryvolume

measurement,whilethemetricsystemdoesnot.Confusingly,theU.S.systemusesthesamewordsforliquidanddrymeasures,buttheyarenotexactlyequal.Forinstance,aU.S.liquidquartis0.946(metric)liters,whereasaU.S.dryquartis1.101liters.MostU.S.cookbooksblurordonotmakethisdistinction.Thenthere’sweighttoconsider.Aliquidquartisexactly32fluidounces(by

volume).Aquartofliquidmayweighmoreorlessthan32ounces(byweight):32fluidouncesofwaterweighsalittlemorethan32ounces,butsomeliquids,suchashoney,aredenserthanwater—32fluidouncesofhoneymightweigh50ounces,forexample.Andtemperatureisanotherfactorthataffectstheweightofwaterandotherliquids.Tofurtherillustratethisvariation,considerthesaying,“Thepint’sapound,

theworldaround.”Asyoumaysuspectbynow,it’snotthatsimple.WecanqualifythesayingabitbysayingthataU.S.pintofwaterweighsclosetoapound(16ounces),dependingontemperatureandperhapsotherfactors.(Andingeneral,theweightofapintofyourfavoritefermentedbeveragewillbewithin10%oftheweightofapintofwater,andlikelymuchcloser.)ButaU.K.pintis20%biggerthanaU.S.pint,soaU.K.pintofwaterweighsabout20ounces,whichisdefinitelydifferentfromapound.AndCanadaandAustraliaofficiallydefineacuptobeaquarterofaliter,sointhosecountries,youmaygeta“pint”ofbeerthatturnsouttobeahalf-liter,whichisapproximately16.9fluidounces,somewherebetweenaU.S.pintandaU.K.pint.

Thegoodnewsisthatdrinkfermentingistolerantofminorvariationssuchasthese.Sotokeepthingsassimpleaspossible,inthisbook,we’llusethefollowingimpreciseequivalencesbetweenU.S.andmetric(seehere).(Donotassumethatyoucanusetheseconversionsforrecipesthatyoufindanywhereelse!)

2POUNDS≈1KILOGRAM

1QUART≈1LITER

1OUNCE≈30GRAMS≈30MILLILITERS

1TABLESPOON≈15GRAMS≈15MILLILITERS

1TEASPOON≈5GRAMS≈5MILLILITERS

IfyouuseallU.S.measuresorifyouuseallmetricmeasures,theratiosofingredientsintherecipeswillbeveryclosetowhatisintended.IfyoumixandmatchU.S.andmetric(aquartofwaterwith90gramsofsugar,oraliterofwaterwith3ouncesofsugar),youmightgetsomevariation,buttherecipesshouldstillwork.Thatsaid,ifyoucan,yourbestbetistogetasmallelectronickitchenscale

andmeasureweightsusinggrams.ThesescalesareavailableinexpensivelyinstoresorviatheInternet.Andyoumayfindyourselfusingthescale,andthemetricsystem,forotherrecipes,too!Inparticular,thebestbakingcookbooksallspecifyingredientsingramsandkilogramsbecauseprecisionisimportantinbaking.MasonjarsareavailableinbothU.S.andmetricsizes.Again,forour

purposes,the5%differencebetweenaquartandalitercanbeignored.

JAREQUIPMENT

YOUMAYWANTTHEFOLLOWING:

■Masonjarsandlids

■Acanningfunnel(stainlesssteelorplastic)

■Anylonmeshstrainerthatfitsinthetopofthecanningfunnel

■Chlorine-free,basket-stylepapercoffeefilters,orcleanhandkerchiefs,orpapertowels

■Awidemouthlidwithabuilt-inairlock

Masonjarsareinexpensive,durableglassjarsoriginallyintendedforhigh-temperaturecanningandfoodstorage.Theyhaveseenwideuseinavarietyofapplicationsandareparticularlywellsuitedtofermenting.Theyaresoldundervariousbrandnames,includingBall,Kerr,andBernardin,intwocommonmouthsizes:standardmouth(70mmouterdiameter)andwidemouth(86mm).Theyaregenerallysoldwithtwo-partmetalcanninglids.Thejarsthemselvesaredishwashersafe;thelidswillstarttocorrodeifyouputtheminthedishwasherbecauseoftheabrasivenessandalkalinityofdishwashingpowder,sotheyarebestwashedbyhand.Youcanoftenfindjarssecondhandoratyardsales,forinstance.

GASESANDAIRLOCKS

Whenyoufermentthings,youoftengenerategasesintheprocess.Someofthegasesdissolveinthefoodordrinkyou’refermenting,makingitfizzy.ButifyouarefermentinginaMasonjarwithaclosedlid,you’llneedtomanagethesegases.Ifyoufindyourselfinthissituation,it’spossibletoleaveaMasonjarlida

littleloose,allowingthegassestoescape.It’salsookaytotightenthelidfullyandthen“burp”itperiodicallybyopeningitbrieflyuntilitstopshissingandthenclosingit.Ifyouforgetormiscalculate,it’susuallynotdisastrous—thejarsthemselvesarestrongerthanthelids,soexcessgaswill(generally!)bendthelidandescaperatherthanbreakingtheglassjar.Still,it’sbettertoavoiddestroyingtoomanylids.Anotheroptionistobuylidswithactualairlocksbuiltin.Airlocksareone-

wayvalvesthatallowgasestoescapewithoutlettingoutsideairin,soyouwon’thavetorelievethepressureinyourjarsmanually.Recently,avarietyofdifferent

airlockdesignshavebecomeavailable.Theonesthatusewatertrapshavebeenusedsuccessfullybyfermentersforyears,butforconvenience,youmightprefertheoneswithoutwatertraps,sinceairlockwatercansometimesevaporateorgetcontaminatedormessy.Masonjarsarequiteversatile.Somehavemeasuresontheirsidesandcanbe

usedasmeasuringcupsinapplicationsthatdon’trequiregreatprecision(e.g.fermenting).Theycanalsobeusedasdrinkingglasses(smalleronesforsmallerdrinksandbiggeronesforbigdrinks!).Andinrecentyears,manyMasonjaraccoutrementshaveappearedonthemarket.Avarietyoflidsareavailable:plasticlidsthatcanbeputinthedishwasher;plasticandsiliconesippy-cuplidsandlidswithholesforstraws;lidswithavarietyofdifferentkindsofintegratedairlocks,specificallyintendedforfermenting;lidstohelpyousproutgrains;decorativelids,intendedforholdingflowersandsuch;cocktailstrainerlids;andsoon.TherearealsoMasonjarholdersandcoziesthatprovideinsulationforhotandcoldbeverages.ThereareevenkitstoconvertMasonjarsintoFrenchpresscoffeemakers,lamps,nightlights,saltandpeppershakers,Bluetoothspeakers,andmore.Thefollowingaresomeofthemostpopularsizes:

■8-ounce(cup,or250ml)standardmouth■16-ounce(pint,500ml)widemouth■32-ounce(quart,or1liter)widemouth■64-ounce(halfgallon,or2liter)widemouth

Therearetwolesscommonin-betweensizesthatdeservemention:12-ouncestandardmouthand24-ouncewidemouth.The12-ounce(375ml)jarisagoodonefordrinkingamodestportionofyourfavoritefermenteddrink.The24-ounce(750ml)widemouthjaristhelargeststandardsizethathasstraightsides,makingiteasytoclean,easytostore,andgreatforstoringfrozenliquids—thelackofashouldermakesiteasiertogeticebergsout.(Ifyouarefreezingit,besuretoleavethelidniceandloose—otherwiseyouriskbrokenjars!)Acanningfunnelisawidefunnelwithabroad“tip”thatfitsintothetopof

Masonjars.It’susefulforgettingsplashyorchunkythingsintoMasonjarswithoutmakingamess.Thefunnelcanalsoholdagood-sizestrainer.Canningfunnelsandstrainerscomeintoplayinsomeoftherecipeshere.They’reusefularoundthekitchenforotherthingstoo.Somerecipescallforhavingfermentsbreathewhilethey’refermenting.

Leavingjarscompletelyuncovered

Fermentationairlocksforbottlesandjars.

isnotrecommended;animals,dirt,andotherforeignobjectswillsoonfindtheirwayin.Thebestoptionistouseapermeablepaperorclothcover,securedwiththeringportionoftheMasonjarlidorwitharubberband.Coffeefilters,cleanclothhandkerchiefs,andpapertowelsallworkwell.Cheeseclothisnotasgood—ifitistoocoarse,itcanletbugsthrough!Fliesandvinegareelsarenotlife-threateningproblems,buttheygenerallymeanthrowingawayyourferment,washingeverythingthoroughly,andstartingoveragain.IfyouloveMasonjarsandyou

havealotofthem,youcanusethemforjustabouteverything,andyoudon’ttrulyneedanyotherjarsorbottlesormuchotherequipmentatall.Butotherkindsofvesselsarebetteroreasierforsomethings.

WHICHLID,ANDWHEN?

Generally,ifyouaretryingtobuildupalcohol,you’llwanttofermentwithaclosedlidoranairlock;ifyouareaimingforcarbonation,you’llwantaclosedlid;butifyouareaimingforasourfermentation,thenbreathingisprobablybest.

STORAGEBOTTLESANDJARS

YOUMAYWANTTHEFOLLOWING:

■Glassjugsofvarioussizes(alsoknownascarboys,growlers,ordemijohns)

■Airlocks,stoppers,andlidsforthejugs

■Flip-top(alsoknownasswing-toporGrolsch-style)bottlesinvarioussizes,and/orwinebottleswithcorks

Somefermentspreferlessexposuretoair.Thesearebestbrewedinsmall-mouthedvessels.Largeglassjugs,orcarboys,aregoodcandidates.Theseareavailableinavarietyofsizes,includingverylargeones,allowingyoutomakeverylargebatchesifyouwish.IntheUnitedStates,applejuiceisoftensoldingallon(4L)glassjugs,whichworkgreatformakinggallon-sizedbatchesofhardapplecider—yougettheingredientandtheequipmentinoneshot!Beerandsometimeskombuchaaresoldinhalfgallon(2L)growlersfromlocalbreweries.Keepthebottleanddon’tforgettokeepthecaptoo.Ifyouwouldlikeajuglargerthanagallon,checkalocalhomebrewshoportheInternet.Largerjugscanbesignificantlymoreexpensivethangallonjugsofapplejuice,butyouprobablywon’tneedmanylargerjugs.Glassisthebestmaterialforjugs.Plasticjugsarecheaper,lighter,andeasier

tofind,buttheplasticcouldpotentiallyleachfromthejugintoyourdrink.Someplasticcontainersareclassifiedasfood-safebyvariousauthoritiesandagencies.Food-safedoesnotmeanthattheydon’tleach—itjustmeansthatleachingislimitedtoacertainamount,whichisafunctionofsurfacearea,liquidaciditylevels,durationofstorage,andsoon.Afermentingjughasalotofsurfacearea,

andyoumaybeleavingyourdrinkinitforquiteawhile.Ifpartofyourreasonforfermentingistoimproveyourhealth,thenyouprobablywanttolimityourintakeofplastic.Youmayalreadybegettingplasticinotherfoodsthatyou’reeating,especiallyifyoueatinrestaurantsalotorifyouuseamicrowave.Youcanchooseyourbattlesanddecidewhethertheconvenienceofaplasticcarboyoutweighstherisk.It’shardtoreallyknow.Somefolkswillconcludethatit’sbesttoplayitsafe.Onceyouhaveyourjugs,youwillalsowantsomeairlockswithstoppers,

especiallyifyouarenotabletotendyourfermentsdaily(toburpthem).Homebrewshopsareagoodplacetofindtheseairlocks,oryoucanbuythemonline.Oneofthefunthingsaboutfermentedbeveragesistheirfizziness.The

problemisthatyoucanlosealotoffizzwhenyoupouryourdrinksfromlargebrewingvesselsintoportion-sizebottlesorjars.Fortunately,therearewaystolimitthisfizzloss.Asiphonpumpand/orasuitablelengthofflexiblehosingandsomeimprovisationcanallowyoutogettheliquidoutofjugswithaminimallossofbubbles.Siphonpumpsareplastic,butbecauseoftheshortdurationofcontactwithyourdrinks,theydon’traisethesameconcernsasplasticbrewingjugs.Theprocessofmovingyourfermentoutofthecarboyorkombuchajarinto

smallerbottlesiscalled(notsurprisingly)bottling.Youdon’tabsolutelyhavetobottleyourdrinks,butdoingsoletsyoukeepmoreofthefizz,letsyoumovethemintotherefrigeratorforstorage,andmakesitpossibletoperformsecondaryfermentationinthebottle(seehere).Manysortsofbottlescanbeusedforbottling.Ifyouareambitious,youcanusebeerbottlesandgetabottle-cappingmachine,butthisisnotatallnecessary.Infact,Masonjarsarefine,andifyoubottleinthesamejarsyou’regoingtoservein,youeliminateoneroundofpouring,decreasewaste,andsimplifycleanup.Flip-topGrolsch-stylebottlesarenicetoo,andbecauseoftheirnarrowneck,theypreservefizzforlongeroncethey’reopen;theyarealsofancier-lookingthanMasonjars.Emptybottlesfromstore-boughtkombuchaareagreatchoice,too,becausetheyaredesignedtobestrongenoughtoholdacarbonateddrink.Evenwinebottleswithcorkswilldoforsomeferments,althoughtheycan’tholdfizzaswellastheothers,andthey’renotasdurable.

KOMBUCHASUPPLIES

YOUMAYWANTTHEFOLLOWING:

■Aone-ortwo-gallon(4Lor8L),cylindricalglasscookiejar–stylecontainer,withorwithoutabuilt-inspigotnearthebottom;orasmallwoodenbarrel

■Alargehandkerchief,kitchentowel,orunbleachedbasket-typecoffeefilterthatcancoverthetopofthecookiejar,plusarubberbandorstringtosecureit

■Asiphonpump(optional)

Becauseofthemicrobesinvolved,kombuchaneedstobreathewhileit’sbrewing.Anidealbrewingvesselisa2-gallon(8L)glasscookiejar–stylecontainerapproximatelyaswideasitistall.Asimilarly-dimensionedwoodenbarrel,openononeend(thetop),isanotherpossibility.Ifthesearetooheavyforyoutolift,youcanusesmallercontainers.They’realllikelytoworkbetterthanaMasonjar,forafewreasons.First,Masonjarslargerthanahalfgallon(2L)arehardtofind,andahalfgallon(2L)batchisonthesmallsideifyoulikedrinkingkombucha.Additionally,whenbrewingkombucha,theratioofjarwidthtoheightplaysafactorinmaintainingthebalancebetweenthebacteriaandtheyeast.Masonjarsaretallerthantheyarewide,sokombuchabrewedinMasonjarsmaytakelongerthankombuchabrewedinwidercontainers,andyoumaywindupwithslightlyhigherlevelsofalcohol.Tosimplifythekombucha-makingprocess,youmaywantajarorbarrelwith

aspigotinstallednearthebottom.Woodspigotsaresometimesavailable;otherwise,youmightbehappywithaplasticspigot.Ifyoudouseaplasticspigot,findonethatisfoodsafeandmanufacturedinacountrywithconsumerprotectionandregulations(forexample,theUnitedStates,notChina).Plasticspigotsarelessproblematicthanplasticjugsbecausespigotshavemuchlesssurfacearea.Nonetheless,puristsmaystillbalkathavingacidicliquidsinlong-termcontactwithplasticofanysort.Siphonpumpsandhosesareapossiblealternativetospigots.Andit’sentirelypossibletobrewkombuchawithoutspigotsorpumps,albeitatsomecostinconvenienceandfizz,bypouringratherthansiphoningorspigotting.(Seechapter7formoreonkombucha.)

SAFETYANDSANITATION

YOUMAYWANTTHEFOLLOWING:

■Mild,low-residue,non-antibacterialsoap

■Dishwasheranddishwasherpowder(optional)

■Whitevinegarforbrewingequipment,ifneeded

Beginningfermenterssometimesworryaboutfoodpoisoningandmicrobiologicalsafety.Thesafetyconcernsfallintotwogeneralcategories.First,manyofushave

heardstoriesaboutimproperlycannedfoodsleadingtopotentiallyfatalcasesofbotulism.Theconcernwithcannedfoodsisreal,althoughthenumberofactualincidentsisprettylow.EveryyearintheUnitedStates,between100and200casesofbotulismarereportedandconfirmed,andmoreprobablygounidentifiedorunreported.Cannedfoods,whethercannedathomeorinfactories,mustbeproduceddeliberatelyandmethodically.Thegoodnewsisthatveryspecificprocedureshavebeendocumenteddescribinghowtoproducecannedfoodssafely;iftheseproceduresarefollowedclosely,majorproblemsarevery,veryunlikely.Theevenbetternewsisthatfermentingresemblescanningonlysuperficially.BotharefoodpreservingtechniquesandbothofteninvolveMasonjars,butthat’swherethesimilaritiesend.Canninginvolvesdestroyingallthemicrobes,generallywithheat,pressure,andchemicals,whilefermentinginvolvessupportingsomemicrobes,discouragingothers,andplayingthefirstgroupagainstthesecond,byloweringthepH,controllingaccesstooxygen,andmoresubtlyvaryingtemperature.Canningisamassacre,whilefermentingisawarofattritionanddiplomacy.Fermenters’problemsarequitedifferentfromcanners’.Canning’sgreatestscourge,botulism,isnotanissueforfermenters,inlargepartbecauseofthelowerpHinvolvedinfermentation.Second,fermentinggoesagainstourrefrigeratortraining.“Putitbackinthe

refrigeratorwhenyou’redone,”ourparentswouldrepeat.Wemustuntrainourselvesabitifwewishtoferment.Toeverythingthereisaseason,includingrefrigeration.It’simportanttounderstandthatrefrigerationslowsdownthefermentationprocessesthatwe’reinterestedin.Sometimes,wedowanttoslowdowntheseprocesses,butmostofthetimewedon’t.Temperatureissomethingwecanadjuststrategically.

Sanitationisanotherplacewherecanningandfermentingdiffer.Canningbestpracticesdictatethatweboiljarsandlidsbeforeweusethemandthenboileverythingforspecificperiodsoftimeduringtheprocess,possiblyunderpressuretoachieveanevenhighertemperature.Fermentingismoreforgiving;it’simportanttomaintainacleanworkspacebutitneednotbespotless.Jarsandbottlesshouldbefreeofforeignobjects,insectsinparticular.Glassmaybesterilizedwithhotorboilingwaterifdesired,butit’snotnecessary.Masonjarsaredesignedtobeimmersedinboilingwater,putinthedishwasher,orwashedbyhand;anyoftheseisadequate.Boilingisoftenthebestoptionforcleaningsmall-neckedjugs,butagain,it’snotnecessary.Ingeneral,usemild,low-residue,unscenteddishsoapordishwasherpowder.

Low-residuesoapshouldbeusedonhands,too.Manygreenbrandsaregood,althoughsomeofthemare“green”inmarketingonlyandcontainharshdetergentsorstrong“natural”scentsthattakehourstodissipate!Antibacterialsoapsareparticularlyproblematic.Iftheyaren’trinsedoffhands

andequipmentcompletely,theycanleadtofailedferments.Worseyet,someantibacterialsoapscontaindangeroustoxicingredientssuchastriclosan.Doyourememberinchapter1whenwementionedthathumansaregiantbagsofmicrobes?Ouroverallhealthisafunctionofthehealth,diversity,andbalanceofourcollectionsofmicrobes.Unconsciouslypoisoningthesemicrobescanleadtoamyriadofmysteriousmaladies.Antibacterialsoapsgenerallydon’tevendoagoodjobatwhatthey’retryingtodo—theyjustwipeoutsomesubsetofthemicrobestheycomeacross.Thebestadviceistostayawayfromantibacterialsoapcompletely,whetherornotyou’refermenting!Infact,triclosan,acommonantibacterialingredient,isnowbannedinsoapsinpartsoftheUnitedStatesandwillhopefullycontinuetobebannedmorewidely.Triclosanandantibacterialsoapswereavictoryofmarketingoverscienceandpublichealth.They’vebeeninconsumerproductsfordecades,andregulatorsareonlynowdecidingthatmaybetheydomoreharmthangood.Thereareafewpiecesofbrewingequipmentthatarehardtocleanandcan’t

goinadishwasher,suchassiphonpumpsandtubing.Homebrewstoressellchemicalsanitizingliquidsforcleaningthesesortsofthings.Commercialbrewersmaynothavemanyotheroptions.Butforhomepurposes,runningwhitevinegarthroughtheseandthenflushingthemwellwithwatershouldsuffice,withnoriskstoourhealthortoourferments.

(A)stainlesssteelbowlsandaspatula,(B)du-rag,(C)candythermometerandwide-mouthMasonjar,(D)pineapplespiralizer,(E)smallmeshstrainer,(F)ladle,(G)chef’sknife,(H)lemonzester,(I)vegetablegrater,(J)woodenspoon,(K)syphonwithhose,(L)largermeshstrainer,(M)stainlesssteelfunnels,(N)vegetablepeeler

MISCELLANEOUS

YOUMAYNEEDTHEFOLLOWING:

■Alargewoodenspoon

■AladlesmallenoughtofitinsideawidemouthMasonjar

■Largemixingbowls(stainlesssteelislight,durable,easytowash)

■Fruitflytraps

■Flyswatters

■Kitchentowels

Asyoubecomeanexperiencedfermenter,youwilldiscoverothertoolsthatcanhelpyouinvariousways.Everyonehastheirfavorites.Thefruitflytrapisausefuldevice.Fruitfliesareattractedtovarious

ferments,includinganythinginvolvingfruitjuice,kombucha,orvinegar.(See“TheDrunkenMonkey”.)Tomakeafruitflytrap,fillasmall(4-ounce[125ml]or8-ounce[250ml])Masonjarhalfwaywithvinegarorkombuchaandaddonedropofdishsoap;then,putapapertowelorcoffeefilteroverthetop,secureitwithacanninglidring,andpunchseveralsmallishholesinthepapertop.Whenthefliesbecomeintriguedbythedelicioussmellinthejar,they’llgothroughtheholesanddiveintotheliquid.Becausethesoapdecreasesthesurfacetensionoftheliquidandcoatstheirwings,theyperish.(Thetrapsgetgross.Makefreshonesasneeded.)Flyswatterscanbeusefultoo.Recently,electricflyswattershavebecome

available.Theylooklikeacrossbetweenatennisracketandabugzapper.Theyareeffective,oddlysatisfyingtouse,andalsohelpbuildhand-eyecoordination.Itisworthmentioningthatyoudon’twanttousetoxicinsecticidespraynear

yourfood.(Oranywhere,really.)

WATERWaterisakeytohumanlife.Muchmunicipaltapwatercontainsimpurities,whichvaryfromplacetoplaceandfromtimetotime.Theycanbeviewedasbelongingtothreecategories:unintentionaltoxicimpurities,intentionalimpurities,and(oftenbeneficial)traceminerals.Unintentionaltoxicimpuritiesincludeheavymetals(lead,mercury,and

cadmium),biologicalcontaminants(sporesandprotozoa),andchemicalresiduesfrompesticides,herbicides,andprescriptionpharmaceuticals.Weareallbetteroffwithoutthese.Intentionalimpuritiesareaddedtowaterduringthepurificationprocess.

Someoftheseimpurities,generallychlorineandchlorinederivatives,areintendedtoinhibitthegrowthofmicrobes.Forwaterintransit,thismakessomesense.Butonceitreachesyourhouse,ithasserveditspurpose.Chlorineinvariousformswillinhibitthegrowthofthemicrobesinyourferments.Itwillalsoinhibitthegrowthofdesirablemicrobesinyourgutandonyourbody.Tracemineralsareleftinthewaterduringthepurificationprocess.Sometrace

mineralscanbehealthful,althoughwedon’tneedtogetthemfromdrinkingwater—wecanfindthemelsewhere.Activelyfilteringyourwateristhebestwaytoaddressbothunintentionaland

intentionalimpurities.Waterfiltersrangefromsimpleplasticpitcherstoelaboratewhole-housesetups,withmanyoptionstochoosefrominbetween.Thebeststrategyistocontactyourlocalwaterauthorityandaskthemwhatsortsofimpuritiesyourwatermightcontain,andthengaugeyourfilteringstrategyaccordingly.Reputablefiltermanufacturerswillbeabletotellyouwhattheirfiltersaregoodatandwhatthey’renotgoodat.Havingsaidallthat,anyfilterisbetterthannofilter.Ifapitcher-typefilteris

what’smanageableforyou,thenuseone.Theyarequiteeffectiveforsomekindsofwateradditives,althoughtheyarenoteffectiveforchloramine,aformofchlorinethatmoreandmorewaterauthoritiesarestartingtouse,andtheyarealsonothelpfulforremovingfluoride,anothercontaminantoftenaddedtoourwaterwithoutourconsent.Ifit’scompletelyimpracticalforyoutofilteryourwater,don’t.Butifyour

fermentsfailtothrive,waterproblemsmaybeoneofthereasons.Boilingwaterandthencoolingitcanremoveorneutralizesomesortsofadditives,althoughcontrarytopopularbelief,itwon’tquicklyremoveallformsofchlorine.

SUGAR

YOUMAYUSETHEFOLLOWING:

■Whitegranulatedcanesugar

■Brownsugar

■Rawsugar,Demerarasugar,Muscovado,Turbinado,orSucanat

■Panela,piloncillo,orjaggery

■Molasses

■Coconutsugar

■Honey

■Maplesyrup

■Aguamieldemaguey

Sugar,inoneformoranother,isanimportantingredientinmostfermentedbeveragerecipes.That’sbecausesugariscentraltothechemicalreactionsinvolvedinfermentation.Mostofitgetstransformedintosomethingelseduringthefermentation,sodon’tbealarmedwhenthekombucharecipecallsforafullcup(200g)ofwhitesugar.Thesugarisfoodforthemicrobes,notforyou,anditwillmostlybegonebythetimeyoudrinkthekombucha.Formoreaboutthechemicalreactionsinvolvedinfermentation,seechapter3.Artificialsweetenerssuchasaspartame,saccharine,andsucralosecannottake

theplaceofsugarintheserecipes.Microbescan’tdigestthesesweeteners.Neithercanhumans,generally;wewoulddowelltotakeourcuefromthemicrobes.Naturalnon-caloricsweetenerssuchassteviaalsowon’twork.Microbeswantactualsugar,period,althoughitdoesn’thavetobewhitesugar.Powderedsugarisnotagoodchoicebecauseitgenerallycontainscornstarch

tokeepitfromclumping.Youprobablydon’twantcornstarchinyourferments,althoughitmightnotruinthings.AndifyouaretryingtoavoidGMO,thendefinitelyavoidthecornstarch,sincemostcornisgeneticallymodified;andoptforcanesugaroverbeetsugar,sincemostbeetsugarcomesfromgeneticallymodifiedbeets.Asfarassugaranditsrelativesgo,thelighterthecolor,thepureritis.Purity

soundslikeagoodthing,butinthiscase,itisn’talways.Muchofthetime,we’rebetteroffwithdarker,lessrefinedsugarordarkerliquidsweetenerssuchasmaplesyrup,molasses,andaguamieldemaguey.Theyaredarkbecausethey

containminerals,oftenineasilyassimilatedforms.Theyareallmostlysugar,sofermentationcanhappenjustfine.Makingfermenteddrinkswithunrefinedsugarsisonewaytogetmore

mineralsinourdiets.Whenthesugarisdigestedbythemicrobes,themineralsareleftbehindforus.Infact,fermentationisawaytogetagooddoseofmineralswithoutallthesugarthattheywereoriginallypairedwith—amuchhigherratioofmineralstosugarthantheyhadintheiroriginalform.(Andassumingourkidneysareworkingproperlyandwe’redrinkingenoughliquids,it’sveryunlikelythatwe’lloverwhelmourbodieswithminerals.)

(A)panela(piloncillo),(B)maplesyrup,(C)turbinadosugar,(D)aguamieldemaguey,(E)brownsugar,(F)rawhoney,(G)whitesugar

Thesedays,it’seasyforustofailtogetthedietarymineralsweneed.Thereareafewfactorsthatcontributetoourmineraldeficits.Oneisthatmodernsoilfertilizationtechniquesfailtoreplenishsomeofthetracemineralsinthesoil.Mineralsarenotmetabolizedordestroyedbyourbodies;theypassthroughorareassimilatedintotissuesandbones.Intheolddays,manureandcorpsesfromanimalsandevenfromhumansallwentbackintothesoil—thingsoperatedinaclosedloop.Inthetimesinceindustrializationandtheadventoflarge-scaleanimalconfinement,manurewentfrombeinganassettobeingawater-pollutingliability.Ournewfossilfuel–basedfertilizersdon’thaveashighmineralcontentasthefertilizerthatweusedtogetforfree.Anotherreasonwemayfailtogetallourmineralshastodowithmodern

grainpreparation.Traditionalpreparationofteninvolvedlongperiodsofsoakingandfermenting,whichneutralizedmineral-blockingcompoundsingrains,suchasphyticacid.Modern,“quick”grainpreparationtechniquesdonotcountertheseantinutritiouscompounds,soweareoftenlessabletoextractthemineralsthatweneedfromourfoods.AthirdreasonformineralshortfallsisthemodernStandardAmericanDiet—

oneoftheUnitedStates’manysuccessfulculturalexports!Alotofusconsumeemptycaloriesthesedays.Processedfoods,sodas,andcommercialbakedgoodsseldomcontaintheirshareofinterestingnutrients.Theyaremadeupofstarchesand/orrefinedsugars,refinedsalt,unhealthyfatsofonesortoranother(usuallyindustriallyproducedvegetableoils,oftentoxicallyprocessed,withresiduesofsolvents),andchemicalflavoringsandcoloringsandpreservativesofvarioussorts.Themoreprocessedfoodweeat,thelessroomwehaveinourdietsandinourstomachsfornutrient-densefoods.Finally,wegetdepletedbytheconstantsocialandphysicalstressesofjobs

andmodernlife,combinedwiththeenvironmentalstressorsofpollution.Andrememberhowpilotingtwo-tonfortressescomplicatesourrelationshipwithalcohol?Ourbodieswerenotdesignedtobeintheongoingstateofstressandheightenedalertthatarepartandparcelofmodernindustriallife,includingdrivingcars.Itraisesourcortisollevelsandincreasesournutritionalrequirements.Sojustatthetimeinhistorywhenwecouldusemorenutrition,wearegettingless.Theupshotofallthisisthatwewouldalldowelltogatherourmineralswhile

wemay.Afewoftherecipesinthisbookrequireaspecificsweetenerforreasonsoftraditionorcategorization(meadisnotmeadunlessit’smadewith

honey),butmostoftherecipesarenotverypicky.Fermentingprovidesusanopportunitytobenefitfromthemineralsfoundinavarietyofsugarsandjuiceswithouthavingtoconsumealotofsugar.Andtherearetimeswemaywanttouseplainwhitesugar,andthat’sokaytoo.Someofthesugarsourcesthatcanbeusedintheserecipesincludetheones

listedhere.Manyofthemareavailableinorganicforms,whichisgenerallypreferable.Notethatsomeformsofsugarareknownbymultiplenames—foodnamingisnotperfectlystandardized,especiallyacrossdifferentregions.Mostsweetenersaredenserthanwhitesugar,andmostarelesssweet.Thus,if

youaremeasuringbyvolume,youcoulduseasmallermeasureofanothersweetenerthanyoumightofsugar,butifyouaremeasuringbyweight,youcouldusemore.Theratiosarenothardandfast;analyzethenutritionlabelsonyoursweeteners,ifyoulike.Abetterplan,regardlessofanythingelse,maybetouseanamountofsweetenercomparabletotheamountofsugarcalledforintherecipe;takenotes;seehowyourbatchturnsout;andthenadjustasyouseefitnexttime.

CHAPTERFIVE

FIVE-MINUTERECIPESSWEETLASSI

SALTYORSAVORYLASSI

DOOGH

SALTYFERMENTEDLEMONADEORLIMEADE

SWITCHEL

SEKANJABIN

Youmaythinkthatyoudon’thavetimetomake

fermentedbeverages.

Butyouwouldbewrong!

Togetyoustartedintheworldoffermenteddrinks,

herearesomesimplerecipesthatyoucanputtogether

quickly.Onceyouhavealltheingredients,therecipesthemselvesaretrivial.Thefermented

ingredientsyou’llbeusingincludethefollowing:■Plainfull-fatyogurt,store-boughtorhomemade

(seehere),orMilkKefir

■Raw,unfilteredapplecidervinegar,store-boughtorhomemade(seehere)■Preservedlemons,store-boughtorhomemade(seerecipeinRealFoodFermentation,orontheInternet)

HONEYINTHERAWSomeoftherecipesinthissectioncallforrawhoney.It’seasiesttomixthehoneyintodrinksifit’sdissolvedinalittlewarmwaterfirst.Butbecareful:Ifthewateristoohot,thehoneywillnolongerberaw,andcookedhoneyislessnutritious.Thetemperatureatwhichcookingstartsisaround118°F(48°C)—thisis

whereenzymes(whichareproteins)starttochangetheirshape,renderingtheminactive,generallypermanently.Notcoincidentally,thisisalsothetemperatureatwhichyourfingerstartstohurtifyouputitinhotwater:Itistoouradvantage

toknowwhenwearegettingcooked,andwehaveevolvedtoknowwhenit’shappening!So,ifyou’remakingdrinkstobeconsumedimmediately,youcanusethefingertestfortemperature.Orifyou’resavingthedrinksforlaterorsharingthemwithotherpeople,youcouldgrabakitchenthermometerinstead.(Somepeoplemightprefernottohaveyourfingersintheirdrinks!)

5-MINUTEFERMENTEDVEGETABLEJUICES

Youcanmakepotentdigestivetonicsfromfermentedvegetablessuchasrawsauerkraut,kimchi,andpickles.LookforthematyourgrocerystoreorfermentthemyourselfusingrecipesfromtheInternetorbookssuchasRealFoodFermentation.Ifyouhaveajuicer,simplyjuicethem!Oruseablendertoblendthemandthenpressthepuréethroughafine-meshstrainerwithamixingbowlunderneathtocollecttheliquid.Servethisresultingliquid,mixedwithsparklingwaterifyoulike.Seehereformoredetails.

◁SWEETLASSILassiisayogurtdrinkpopularontheIndiansubcontinent.Servedchilled,it’slight,frothy,and

immenselyrefreshing.Makeitplain,sweetenit,oraddsavoryflavors(seehere).Onceyou’ve

masteredthemethod,startadjustingtheamountofvariousingredientstosuityourselforyour

familyandfriends.Ifyouhitonaparticularlyinspiringcombination,don’tforgettowriteitdown!

Lassiisaneasypathtodrinkableyogurt.Theonlyequipmentyou’llneedforthemostbasic,fruit-

freeversionisaMasonjarlargeenoughtoholdeverythingwithatleastaninch(2.5cm)ofroomto

spareatthetop.UsingMasonjarsmakescleanupeasysincetheycangointhedishwasher.Andif

youhaveablender,fruitlassisareeasytoo.(Infact,thethreadsonsomeblenderjarsmatchthe

threadsonstandardmouthMasonjars.Ifyouhaveoneoftheseblenders,youcanexploreblending

directlyinyourMasonjar.)YIELD:ABOUT2SERVINGS(8OUNCES,OR250ML,EACH)

1cup(225g)plainfull-fatyogurt,store-boughtorhomemade

1cup(250ml)waterand/orhigh-quality,full-fatmilk

Afewicecubes

Ifnotusingfruit,upto2teaspoons(10g)granulatedsugar,(15g)rawhoney,maplesyrup,oraguamieldemagueyPinchofseasalt

1/8teaspoongroundcardamom(optional)Pulpof1mango(about1cup[175g])or1cup(175g)choppedfreshpineapple(optional)

WITHOUTFRUIT

Placetheyogurt,water,ice,sugar,salt,andcardamom(ifusing)inaMasonjar.Closethelidtightly.Shakevigorouslyuntilfrothy.Theicehelpswiththefrothing;tomakeitfrothierandlighter,addatleast1/4cup(60ml)morewaterandshakemorevigorously.

Removethelidandserve.Ifyoudon’tserveitallatonce,shakeagainimmediatelybeforeservingtherest.

WITHFRUIT

Blendtheyogurt,water,ice,salt,cardamom(ifusing)andmangoorpineappleinablenderonhighspeedforabout30secondsoruntilniceandfrothy.Ifnotcompletelyblended,repeatuntilsmooth.Servewithmoreiceifdesired.

SALTYORSAVORYLASSITheselassisaregreatwithmeals.Adjustthespicesbasedonwhereyoulive,what’savailable,and

whatyoulike.Trythecurrypowderifyoulike.Gingerisrefreshing,turmericwillgiveyourdrinka

wonderfulorangecolor,andcuminaddsintenseflavor.Mintandcucumberareagreatsummer

combination;tryfive-spicepowderorcinnamoninthewinter.Alltheindividualspiceshavespecific

healthbenefits,andyogurtandspicescanhelpyourdigestion!

YIELD:ABOUT2SERVINGS(8OUNCES,OR250ML,EACH)

1cup(225g)plainfull-fatyogurt,store-boughtorhomemade

1cup(250ml)watermixedwithabout1/4cup(60g)crushedicePinchofseasalt

SEASONINGOFYOURCHOICE(CHOOSEFROMTHEFOLLOWING):1teaspooncurrypowder,ortotaste

1teaspoonfive-spicepowder,ortotaste

1/4teaspoongroundcumin,ortotaste1/4teaspoongroundfennelseed,ortotaste1teaspoonpowderedturmericorfreshturmericgratedextra-finewithamicroplaneorzester,ortotastePlacetheyogurt,water,salt,andseasoninginaMasonjar.Closethelidtightly.Shakevigorouslyuntilfrothy.Theicehelpswiththefrothing;tomakeitfrothierandlighter,addatleast1/4cup(60ml)waterandshakemorevigorously.

Removethelidandserve.Ifyoudon’tserveitallatonce,shakeagainimmediatelybeforeservingtherest.

DOOGHDooghissimilartolassiinthatit’sasavoryyogurt-baseddrink.Thebiggestdifferencebetween

doogh,whichhasitsrootsinancientPersia,andlassiisthatdooghshouldbefizzy—thisiswhywe

makeitwithsparklingwater.It’sarefreshing,easywaytointroduceprobioticdrinksintoyourdiet.

Thisrecipeisashortcutversion.Ifyou’refeelingbold,weencourageyoutotrythetraditionalIranian

recipe:Makehomemadeyogurtandthenletitsitforseveralweeksatroomtemperatureinajaror

bottlewithanairtightlid.Whenitstartsgettingbubbly,it’sready.Youcanfindahomemadeyogurt

recipeshownhere.

YIELD:2SERVINGS(8OUNCES,OR250ML,EACH)

1cup(225g)plainfull-fatyogurtorMilkKefir(seehere)1/2teaspoondriedmintPinchofseasalt

Pinchofgroundblackpepper

1cup(250ml)sparklingormineralwater

1cup(250g)icecubesorcrushedice

Freshmintleaves(optional)

Stirtheyogurt,mint,salt,andpepperinaquart(1L)Masonjaruntilthemint,salt,andpepperaredistributedevenlythroughouttheyogurt.Addthesparklingwaterandstirjustenoughtoblendwell.(Themoreyoustir,themorebubblesyou’lllose.)Itwilllooklikesmooth,bubblyliquidyogurt.

Dividetheicebetweentwoglasses.Pourthedooghovertheice.Garnishwithfreshmintleaves(ifusing)andserve.

SALTYFERMENTEDLEMONADEORLIMEADESaltylemonadeisnature’ssportsdrink.Itcontainstheelectrolytesandtracemineralsthatweneed

whensweating,alongwithabitofsugarthatcanbehelpfulforkeepingourenergyup.Andifit’s

madewithpreservedlemons(orlimes),itprovidesthehealthanddigestivebenefitsoffermented

foodstoo.

Manyculturesenjoylemonadeorlimeade.ThisrecipeisclosesttotheVietnameseversion,Soda

Chanh,whichissaltyandsparklyandfeaturesmintleaves.Asyoumakeitagainandagain,try

dialingbacktheamountofsweetener.Learntoenjoythebalancebetweensweetandsourrather

thanjustthesugarrush!

YIELD:1SERVING(8OUNCES,OR250ML)

1/8ofasaltypreservedlemoninbrineor1/4orasaltypreservedlimeinbrine(findarecipeinRealFoodFermentationorontheInternet)Sweetenerofyourchoice,totaste(startwith1teaspoonnaturalsugarorrawhoney)Afewmintleaves(optional)

Crushedice

1cup(250ml)sparklingorstillwater

Aggressivelymuddlethepreservedlemon(orlime),sweetener,mintleaves(ifusing),andicewithadrinkmuddler,mortarandpestle,blender,orwhatevermeansconvenient.Itdoesnothavetobecompletelyuniform.Addthewaterandstir.Serveinatallglasswithastraw.

SWITCHELSwitchelbelongstothefamilyofvinegar-orwine-baseddrinksthathasbeenaroundsinceClassical

Greektimesorbefore.(Seechapter2.)Apopularcolonial-eradrinkintheUnitedStates,itis

experiencingsomethingofacomebackinthetwenty-firstcentury.Ittraditionallyfeaturesapple

cidervinegarandmaplesyrup,buttheonlytrulyrequiredingredientsarevinegarandwater,solet’s

trysomeinteresting(anddelicious!)variations.Thisversionaddsgingerandabitofsweetener.Fora

tropicaltwist,usepineappletepachevinegarandaguamieldemaguey.

Forthegreatesthealthbenefits,makesuretouseraw,unfilteredvinegar.Switchelmadewith

pasteurizedvinegarisnotafermenteddrink,anditwillbemissingmicrobes,enzymes,andvitamins.

Molassesworkswellinthisrecipe,andithasagreatmineralprofile.

YIELD:ABOUT4SERVINGS(8OUNCES,OR250ML,EACH)

3tablespoons(60g)maplesyrup,aguamieldemaguey,molasses,orrawhoney3tablespoons(45ml)raw,unfilteredappleciderorpineappletepachevinegar,store-boughtorhomemade(seehere)1teaspoongratedfreshginger

Juiceof1/2ofalime(optional)1quart(1L)filteredwater

Placealltheingredientsinahalfgallon(2L)Masonjar.Closethelidtightlyandshakewell.Refrigerateovernightand/orserveoverice.

VARIATION:Mixalltheingredientsexceptforthewater.Thiscanbedoneaheadoftime,andtheresultingsyrupcanbestoredintherefrigeratorforaweekormore.Whenreadytoserve,pour1ounce(30ml)ofsyrupintoaglassoverafewicecubesandadd7ounces(200ml)ofsparklingwater.Theresultisaniceprobioticsodaalternative.

SEKANJABINSekanjabinisapopulardrinkinIran,whereitisservedovericeduringthesummer.It’saflawless

combinationofsweetandsour,andit’simmenselyrefreshing—idealforanyonewhowantstoadd

microbestohisorherdiet.Onceyou’vemadethesekanjabinsyrup,itonlytakesafewminutesto

preparethedrink,andthesyrupitselflastsformonths.

YIELD:ABOUT11/2GALLONS(6L)4cups(800g)organicgranulatedsugar

21/2cups(625ml)filteredwater1/2cup(50g)freshmintleavesor1/4cup(30g)gratedfreshginger,dependingondesiredflavor1cup(250ml)raw,unfilteredredorwhitewinevinegarDissolvethesugarinthewaterinamedium-sizepotovermediumheat,stirringoccasionally.Oncesimmering,addthemintleaves.Simmer,uncovered,untilthesyrupthickens,about10to15minutes.Removefromtheheatandletcooltoroomtemperature.Strainoutthesolidswithastrainer.Addthevinegar.Storeatroomtemperatureinawell-sealedcontainersuchasaMasonjar.

Topreparethedrink,stir2tablespoons(30ml)ofsyrupinto1cup(250ml)ofcoldwater.

CHAPTERSIX

STARTERS,MASTERRECIPES,ANDGENERALPRINCIPLESMASTERRECIPE:GINGERBUG

MASTERRECIPE:YOGURT

MASTERRECIPE:MILKKEFIR

MASTERRECIPE:WHEY

MASTERRECIPE:VINEGAR

MASTERRECIPE:WATERKEFIR

Humanshavebeenfermenting,thinkingabout

fermentation,andattemptingtotroubleshootferments

throughoutrecordedhistory.Ourunderstandingofthe

processreflectsthenaturalscienceofourtimeandour

culture.Today,weexplainitusingmicrobesand

chemicalreactions.Traditionalexplanationsof

fermentationmayhaveincludedideasaboutplantspiritsoraboutforcesattachedtospecificvessels

inwhichthingsferment,andwaysthattheseforcescantravelfromonevesseltoanother.

Theseideasmightsoundlikesuperstitiontoourmodernears,buttheyhavebeenjustasusefultotheirproponentsasourexplanationsaretous.Andwecan’tknowhowourcurrentexplanationswillsoundtohumansathousandyearsfromnow!

THEBESTMICROBESFORTHEJOB:BACTERIAVS.YEASTVS.MOLDOneofthefirstthingstodetermineaboutanyfermentationprojectiswhatsortsofmicrobesareinvolved:bacteria,yeast,ormold.Bacteriaaremicroscopic,single-celledorganisms.(Andlestyouthinkthat

sayingboth“microscopic”and“single-celled”isredundant,considerthatachickeneggisasinglecell!)Bacteriaareneitherplantsnoranimals,andthey

wereamongthefirstformsoflife.Atypicalhumanbodyishosttohundredsoftrillionsofbacterialcells,mostofwhichresideinthegut.Manybacteriaproducelacticacidaspartoftheirmetabolism.Lacticacid–

producingbacteria,orlacticacidbacteria(LABs)forshort,canbefoundinplantsandmilkproducts,intheair,inourbodies,andinotherplaces.LABsarenotablefortheirabilitytotolerateacidicconditions.Manyothersortsofbacteriadonottolerateacidicconditions—includingmanyofthebacteriathatarepotentiallyharmfultoushumans.LABsproduceacidthatinhibitsthegrowthoftheseharmfulbacteria,thuscontributingtothelong-termsafetyoffermentedfoods.That’swhyLABsareknownasfriendlybacteria.Especiallyincolderclimates,wherefreshfoodislessavailableyear-round,LABsandlacticacidfermentation(lactofermentation)havebeenimportanttohumanfoodwaysbecauseoftherolestheycanplayinpreservingfood.Lacticacidfermentsincludeallbutafewcheeses,allsourdairyproducts,andmosttraditionalsourpreparations,includingsourvegetables.Vinegarsinvolveprimarilyaceticacidbacteria;theirstoryissimilartothestoryofLABs.Yeastsarealsosingle-celledorganisms,morecomplicatedandphysically

largerthanbacteria.Membersofthefungikingdom,theirspecialtalentisproducingalcohol;mostalcoholicdrinksinvolveyeastinsomeway.Theyalsoproducecarbondioxide,whichiswhytheymakedrinksbubbleandbreadrise.Yeastshavebeenkeytothehumanrelationshipwithwheatespecially,butalsowithhoney,grapes,apples,andotherfruits.Thankstoyeasts,breadandbeeraretwoofthemostimportantformsofpreservedwheat.Mead,wine,cider,andotherfruitwinesalsoinvolveyeast.Strongeralcoholicdrinkshaveyeast-fermenteddrinksasstartingpoints;theseareconcentratedviadistillation.Moldsarealsofungi.They’rebiologicallysimilartoyeastsinsomeways,but

theygrowinmulticellularclumps.Moldsplayrolesinthecreationsomekindsofcheeses:inthebodiesofbluecheesesandafewothersandintherindsofmostsoftcheeses.Moldsalsoplayrolesindry-curedmeatsandinsomegrainandlegumepreservessuchasmiso,sake,andsoysauce.Somefermentsrelyonacombinationofbacteriaandyeast,oftenreferredto

asaSCOBY,whichisanacronymforSymbioticCommunity(orCulture)ofBacteriaandYeast.(Sometimesthetermcolonyisusedratherthancommunity;colonyisn’tquiteaccurateinthiscontextbecauseitgenerallyimpliesahomogeneouscollection,andaSCOBYbydefinitioncontainsvariety.)SCOBYisalsooftenusedtorefertoavisiblemanifestationofthemicrobes—

inthecaseofkombucha,acellulosicmatthatfloatsontopofthebrew.(VinegarhasasimilarSCOBYthat’sgenerallycalledmotherofvinegar.Itmayormay

notfloatontop.)SCOBYasthevisiblepartofthefermentiscommonusage,butitcanmisleadnewcomersintothinkingthatallthemicrobesliveinthemat,whichisn’tthecase.SomeSCOBYferments,suchaskefir,don’thaveamatatall,buthavesmallglobulesinstead.

STARTERSANDHOWTOGETTHEMAstarterissomethingthatyouaddtoafermentablesubstratetoencourageittofermentinaparticularway.Somefermentationprojectsdon’trequirestartersatall,consistentlyfermentingthewayyouwantthemtoifthetemperature,surfacearea,salt,availabilityofoxygen,andsoonareapproximatelyright.Otherfermentsrequireastarter.Andyetotherscanbedonewithorwithoutastarter.Givenachoice,itismoreexcitingtofermentwithoutastarter,orwitha

homemadestarter,becausetheresultscanbepleasantlysurprising.Buttheycanalsobeunpleasantlysurprising,soifyouaredependingonyourferment,needingtomeetadeadlineorusingitforeconomicgain,forinstance,youmaywanttotaketherouteoflessuncertaintybyusingastarter.

SCOBYSTARTERSThemostcommonSCOBYfermentsarekombucha(anditscousinjun),vinegar,milkkefir(búlgaros),andwaterkefir(tíbicos).InordertomakeaSCOBYferment,inmostcases,youneedastarter,which

usuallyconsistsofthephysicalmanifestationoftheSCOBYplussomeofthefermentedliquid.Thesedays,it’seasytobuyanyofthesestartersontheInternet.Thebest

placetofindthemmaychangefromtimetotime;checkthe“Resources”sectionofourwebsitewww.KombuchaKefirandBeyond.comforup-to-daterecommendations.Ifyou’dliketogetoneforfree,askyourfriends!Orlookatthevarious

culturesharingsitesandgroupsontheInternetthatcanhelpyoufinddonors.Again,checkthe“Resources”sectionofourwebsiteforgoodrecommendations.VinegarisoneSCOBYfermentforwhichyoudon’tneedastarter.

Acetobacter,thebacteriathatarekeytomakingvinegar,arewidespread,andtheyaregoodatfindingopenvesselsofwine,cider,tepache,andotheralcoholfermentsandturningthemintovinegar.So,youcanmakevinegarwithoutgettingastarter;itwilldofinewithoutone.Youmayevenfindyourselfhavingmadevinegarbyaccident!Generally,allyouneedtodoisleaveanalcoholfermentexposedtotheair—ideallycoveredwithaclothtokeepbugsout.(Some

vinegarrecipesrecommendcourtingfliestocapturetheAcetobacterthattheycarryandthenstrainingoutthedeadflieslater,butthisisquiteunnecessary!)

BACTERIALSTARTERSInmostcasesinthisbook,wemakeourownbacterialstarters(e.g.,GingerBug)orelsewedonotusestartersatall(e.g.,BeetKvass).Onecaseinwhichastarterisnecessaryisyogurt.Fortunately,youcanstart

yogurtwithasmallportionofactiveculture,high-qualityplainyogurt!Thatmeansthatayogurtstarterisavailableinmostgrocerystoresandevensomeconveniencestores.Vegetablefermentationstartersarenotgenerallynecessaryforfermentssuch

asBeetKvassandsauerkraut.Butifweareattemptingtofermentvegetablesunderlessthanidealconditions,suchasatatemperatureabove85°F(30°C)orwithlessthantheidealamountofsalt,wemaychoosetouseabacterialstarter.Forsourcesofvegetablefermentationstarters,again,checkthe“Resources”sectionofourwebsite,orsimplysearchonlinefor“vegetablestarterculture.”

YEASTSTARTERSSomeyeastprojects,suchastepache,donotrequireyeaststarters.Others,includingwineandcider,willturnoutmoreconsistentlywhenyeaststartersareused.Theresultwithastartercanbemorepredictable,althoughwhileavoidingthefailures,youmaymissoutontheoccasionalfantasticsurprise.YeaststarterscanbeboughtathomebrewstoresorontheInternet.Theycan

alsobecapturedbyexposingsweetliquidstoairandstirringthemalot,andfromthesurfaceoffresh,unsprayedfruitsuchasapples,grapes,andberries.Onceyouhavecreatedabubblystarterthisway,youcanaddittoyourbiggerbatchoffermentableliquid.Thisisanin-betweenstrategy,notaspredictableasusingyeastfromanenvelope,butlessuncertainthanstartingabigbatchwithoutastarteratall.

FERMENTATION,AIR,ANDBUBBLESFermentationscaneitherbeperformedwithaccesstoambientair(ideallycoveredwithaclothoracoffeefiltertokeepinsectsout!)orwithnoaccesstoambientair(eithercompletelysealedorwithanairlockorone-wayvalveofsomesortallowinganoutflowofgasbutnobackflow).IfyouwantAcetobactertofindyourdrink,yourdrinkwillneedtobeopento

theair.Ifyouarecountingonhavingwildyeastfindyourdrink,it’sthesame

story.(Inthesecases,youwillneedafinecloth,coffeefilter,orpapertoweltokeepanybugsout.)Conversely,whenyoudon'twantyourdrinktobecomemoresour,youwillwanttocutoffaccesstoairtokeepAcetobacterundercontrol.Someprojectsgothroughphasesinwhichyouwilldoeachofthesethingsinturn.Andinfact,kombuchaseemstodobothonitsown;atsomepointduringtheprocess,thekombuchaSCOBYsettlesatthetopofthedrinkandformsaprettygoodseal.Theothersideoftheairissueisthequestionofcarbonation.Whilethingsare

fermenting,theygeneratesomeamountofcarbondioxidegas.Thisgascanbeharnessedtomakeyourbeveragebubbly.Tocapturebubbles,sealacontainertightlywhilefermentationisactivelyhappening.Youcanaccomplishthisbysealingitsoriginalfermentingvesselorbymovingthedrinktonewvessels,perhapssmaller,thatcanbeeasilysealed.

Carbonationescapesonceabottleisopen,soifyouareaimingforcarbonation,youmaywanttobottledirectlyintoserving-sizecontainers(bottlesorjars).Andonceyourdrinkhasachievedthedesiredlevelofcarbonation,youmaywanttoputitintherefrigerator.Thisdoestwothings.First,itgreatlyslows(butdoesnotstop)theongoingfermentation,renderingyourdrinkmorestable.Second,itallowsmoreofthegastodissolveintheliquidbecausecarbondioxide,likemostgasses,dissolvesbetterinliquidsatlowertemperatures—thismakesyourdrinkmorebubblyandalsomakesitevenmorestable.Whenbottling,youhavetheoptiontoaddsomemoresugar,eitherintheform

ofactualsugarorintheformoffruitordriedfruit.Whenyousealthebottle,the

sugarcontinuestoferment.Thisin-bottlefermentationiscalledsecondaryfermentation,or2fforshort.Somecaremustbetakenwhenfermentingthingsinsealedcontainers.It’s

importanttouseonlybottlesthathavebeendesignedwithcarbonationandpressureinmind.Thismeansthatbeerbottles,kombuchabottles,champagnebottles,andevenplasticsodabottlesarefine,butwinebottlesmaynotbe.Evenwhentakingtheseprecautions,bottlescanoccasionallyexplode.You

don’twantglassbottlesexploding;it’smessyandpotentiallydangerous.Thereareacoupleofthingsthatyoucandotoavoidexplosions:

■Beconservativeandmakechangesgradually.It’shardtomakesweepingstatementsabouthowmuchsugartoaddduring2fofkombucha.Butyoumaywanttostartwith4raisinsorfrozenblueberriesperbottleandseehowthatgoes.Ifthat’snotenough,try6.Again,it’shardtogivehard-and-strictformulaswithsomanyvariables—variablessuchasambienttemperature,residualsugarinyourkombucha,andthestrengthofyourkombuchaculture.

■Useoneplasticbottlealongwithanyglassbottlesyouareusing.Chooseaplasticbottlethatisasimilarsizetotheglassbottlesandfillitsimilarlyfull.Aspressurebuildsup,youcantesttheplasticbottlebysqueezingit.Whenitbecomeshardlikeasodabottle,youprobablyhaveagoodamountofcarbonation,anditmaybetimetoputallyourbottlesintherefrigerator(ordrinkthem!).

◁GINGERBUGAgingerbugisagreat,easy-to-makestarterforabacterial/sourfermentofalmostanything

containingsugar.Sugaryliquidslefttotheirowndevicesoftengoinayeast/alcoholdirection,but

thebugcanhelpsteerthemawayfromthis.Itworksparticularlywellincoconutwater.

Sowhyagingerbug?Whynotacelerybugorpotatobug?Tofindout,Raquelaskedherfriend

ErnestoFato,achemicalengineerfromthebeautifulstateofOaxaca,Mexico,wholivesandworksin

Monterreyinthefoodandbeverageindustry.HeisRaquel’shelpinghandandbrains,especially

whensomethingdoesn’tquiteturnoutthewaysheexpectsinherkitchenlab.Ernesto’sconclusion

wasthatgoodqualityrawgingerprovidesanexcellentsubstrateforthegrowthoflacticacid

bacteria,whileatthesametimeinhibitingthegrowthofotherbacteria.GraciasErnesto!

YIELD:1PINT(500ML)ACTIVEGINGERBUG

STARTERINGREDIENTS

2cups(500ml)filteredwater

2tablespoons(20g)gratedraworganicginger

2tablespoons(30g)organicgranulatedsugar

FEEDINGINGREDIENTSAtleast4tablespoons(30g)raworganicginger

Aleast4tablespoons(50g)sugar,plusmoretomaintain

StirthestarteringredientsinaMasonjaruntilthesugarisdissolved.Coverthejarwithacleancloth,kitchentowel,papertowel,orcoffeefilterandsecureitwitharubberbandorMasonjarring.Writethedateonapieceofmaskingtapeandstickittotheoutsideofthejar.

Tofeedthebug:Eachsubsequentday,grate1tablespoon(10g)ofginger,uncoverthejar,add1tablespoon(15g)ofsugarandthefreshlygratedginger,stirvigorously,andcoverthejarasbefore.Afteraboutaweek,giveortakedependingontemperature,theliquidwillbebubbly.Atthispoint,yourgingerbugisaliveandreadyforaction.

Oncethebugiswellestablished,it’snolongernecessarytoaddmoreginger.Continuefeedingitatablespoon(15g)ofsugarandstirringeverydayortwo.Itshouldremainfizzy.Afterawhile,youwilldevelopafeelingforhowyourfeedingaffectshowbubblyitis.Beforeusingitinarecipe,feeditmorethan

usualtogetitasbubblyaspossible.Ifatsomepointitisnolongerfizzy,thismeansthatitisdeadandwillnolongerworkasastarter.Inthiscase,makeanewbatch.

Ifyouwon’tbeabletofeeditforafewdaysorlonger,storeitintherefrigerator,stillcoveredwithclothorpaper.Whenyouarereadytoreviveit,leaveitoutatroomtemperatureandresumefeedingitdaily.Itmaytakeafewdaysbeforeitrecoversfully.Ifitdoesn’t,startanewbatch.

GINGERBUGTIPS&TRICKS

Ifarecipecallsforgingerbugtobeusedasastarter,onlytheliquidisnecessary.Placeapieceoftapeontheoutsideofthejartomarkthelevelofliquid.Pourouthowevermuchyouneed,usingastrainerifnecessary.Refillthejartothetapelinewithfilteredwater.

Avoidstoringyourgingerbugnearotheropencontainerculturessuchaskombucha—theycancross-contaminate,whichleadstoproblems.

Foradifferentflavor—andprobablysomedifferentmicrobes—turmericandgalangalcanbeusedinplaceofsomeoralltheginger.

YOGURTInmanyplaces,it’spossibletobuyunsweetened,full-fatyogurtmadefromhigh-qualitymilk.But

thishasn’talwaysbeenthecase,andit’sstillnoteverywhere.Ifyoucangetgoodmilkbutcan’tget

goodyogurt,youcanmaketheyogurtyourself.

YIELD:4SERVINGS(8OUNCES,OR225G,EACH)

1tablespoon(15ml)starter

1quart(1L)milk

Oneoftheadvantagesofmakingityourselfisthatyougettodecidewhatgoesinit.Manyyogurts,evenfrom“natural”brands,containthingsotherthanmilkandcultures.Anotheradvantageiscostsavings.It’shardtogeneralizeaboutthis,butitshouldalmostalwaysbecheapertobuyagallon(4L)ofmilkthanfourquarts(4kg)ofyogurt.Yetanotheradvantageisthathomemadeyogurtcanbemadetocontainverylittlelactose,byfermentingitforlongerthanusual.(Intheory,store-boughtyogurtcouldbefermentedmoreafterpurchase,too.)

Unhomogenizedmilkisbestformakingyogurt,ifyoucanfindit.Somebrandsofyogurttodayareunhomogenized,andyoucanfindunhomogenizedmilkatspecialtystores.Butifyoucan’tmanageunhomogenized,it’sokay.Youcaneasilymakeyourownyogurtathome.Youdon’tevenneedafancyyogurtmaker—you’llbegoodtogoifyouhavearegular1-quart(1L)thermosandacandythermometerorevenjustanovenwithalightbulbandsomeMasonjars.Youwill,however,needaculturestarter,whichcanbeanyofthefollowing:■Wheyfromyogurt■Apreviousbatchofyourownyogurt■High-quality,plainstore-boughtyogurt,oryogurtstarter(see“Resources”)■Crèmefraîche

Placethestarterina1-quart(1L)thermos.Heatthemilkinalargestainlesssteelpotfittedwithacandythermometer

overmediumheatuntilitreaches180°F(82°C),butnottoomuchhotter.Stirconstantlywithawoodenspoontopreventboilinghotspotsandscorchingatthebottomofthepan.Onceitreaches180°F(82°C),youcanturntheheatoffandwaitforittocool.Butifyouholditat180°F(82°C)forawhile,itwillbe

thickerandcreamier.Ifyouaregame,youcanholdtheresultingyogurthereforupto20or30minutes,stirringconstantly.

Removethepotfromtheheatandlettheyogurtcooltoabout110°F(43°C).Ifyou’reimpatient,restthepotinanicebath.Stirringwillalsohelpitcool,aswillmovingitintoacoldglassorceramiccontainer.

Oncetheyogurtreaches110°F(43°C)orbelow,pouritintothethermoswiththestarter,closethelid,andshake.Donotletitgettoofarbelow110°F(43°C)becausethatisthetemperatureatwhichtheseculturesthrive.

Writethedateandtimeofpreparationontheoutsideofthethermos.Thelongertheyogurtferments,thesoureritwillbeandthelesslactoseitwillcontain.Ifyouwantyouryogurttobepracticallylactose-free,letitfermentfor24hours.Amoretypicallengthoftimeis8to12hours.

Transfertheyogurtfromthethermostoaheat-conductivecontainerandrefrigerateit.

OTHEREQUIPMENTOPTIONS

Therearemanyotherwaystokeepyogurtattherighttemperaturewhileitferments.Oneparticularlyconvenientoptionistoplaceitinanovenwiththeovenlighton.Inmanyovens,thiswillholditattherighttemperature.Ifyouhaveanoventhermometer,youcantestyouroven:Leavethelightonforawhileandthencheckthetemperature—ifit’sbetween95°F(35°C)and110°F(43°C),youareallset.Followthedirectionsabove,butusea1quart(1L)Masonjarinsteadofathermosandafterclosingthelidandshaking,putitintheovenwiththeovenlighton.

Youcanalsouseacooler.Addenough110°F(43°C)watertothecoolertopartiallysubmergethejar.AddtheMasonjarholdingtheyogurt.Closethecoolerandopenit12to24hourslater.Theyogurtshouldbeset.

MILKKEFIRLikelyoriginatingintheCaucasusMountains,milkkefirgrains(búlgarosdelecheinSpanish)area

SCOBYculturethatfermentsmilk.

Tomakemilkkefir,youmustacquireatablespoon(15g)orsoofthesemilkkefirgrains,whichlook

likecottagecheeseorsmallcauliflowerflorets.(See“Resources”forhowtogetastarter.)Ifyoubuy

dehydratedgrains,followtheinstructionsonthepackagetorehydratethem.Eitherway,you’llneed

alargeglassorceramicjar—Masonjarsareideal.Beawarethatyouwillneedaninchortwo(2.5to

5cm)ofheadroominthejarabovethefermentingmilkbecausekefirneedsairwhileit’sfermenting.

Ifthere’sanyquestionaboutwhatsizejartouse,golargerratherthansmaller.

YIELD:2SERVINGS(8OUNCES,OR250ML,EACH)

1tablespoon(15g)dairykefirgrains

2cups(500ml)wholedairymilk,raworpasteurized

Themilkkefirculture,liketheyogurtculture,feedsonlactose,soitwon’tworkwithlactose-freemilk.Freshrawmilkisthebestbecauseitcontainslotsofbeneficialbacteriaandenzymesofitsownandwillmakeamorebiologically-diversekefir.Makesurethatit’snomorethanadayold;otherwise,theenzymesandmicrobesthatnaturallyoccurandmultiplyinrawmilkcanstarttodominatethekefirmicrobesandsendthingsinanunexpecteddirection,resultinginfunky-tastingkefirandpossiblyabiologicaldriftinthekefirgrains,makingthemlesseffectiveinthefuture.Regularpasteurizedmilkworksfine,too,orhigh-pressureprocessedmilkifthat’savailablewhereyouare,butthesameruleapplies:thefresherthemilk,thebetter.

Kefirfermentsbestatroomtemperatureorwarmroomtemperature.Thismakesitparticularlyconvenientforpeoplewholiveinrooms!Infact,it’seveneasierandmoreconvenienttomakethanyogurtbecauseitdoesn’trequireelevatedtemperature,nordoesitrequirethemilktobeheatedaheadoftime.

Also,becausekefirculturestendtobe“wilder”thanyogurtcultures,inthesensethattheycontainmoreunknownstrainsofmicrobes,it’shardertogeneralizeaboutthingssuchasstarterratios,idealtemperatures,andtimes.Forthisreason,ifyouwanttogetconsistentresults,youmayneedtokeeptrackoftheseparametersforyourselfinanotebookoratleastsettleintoaconsistentroutineandbeconsciousaboutvaryingit.Forinstance,youcanputapieceof

tapeonthesideofyourkefirfermentingjarandalwaysfillitwithmilktothetopofthetape.

Ifkefirislefttofermentforlongenough,itwillseparate.Youwillseecurdsandwhey.Thiskefirwillbeverysour,andmaybepastitsprimefordrinking,butit'sstillfineforsmoothies,saladdressings,andsoon.

Kefirprobablycontainsagreatervarietyofmicrobesthanyogurt.Thismeansthatitmaybe“moreprobiotic”thanyogurt,althoughaswithmanymattersoffermentation,it’shardtogeneralizewithanycertainty.

Placethekefirgrainsinaquart(1L)Masonjarandpourthemilkoverthem.Useajarlargeenoughtoleaveatleastaninch(2.5cm)ofspaceatthetop;ifyou’rescalinguptherecipe,thenscaleupthejar.Stirvigorouslywithawoodenorplasticspoonifnecessarytogetthingsmixedwell.Sealwithanairtightlid,orifyoudon’thaveanyotherSCOBYbrewsintheroom,coverthetopwithacleancloth,kitchentowel,papertowel,orcoffeefilterandsecurewitharubberbandorMasonjarring.Agitatethemilkmixture.Writethebrewingdateandtimeonapieceofmaskingtapeandstickittotheoutsideofthejar.

FLAVORYOURMILKKEFIR

Ifyou’dlikesomevariety,addflavorssuchasvanillaorcinnamontoyourkefir,totaste,rightwhenyouaredrinkingit,asyouwouldwhenflavoringyourcoffee.

Youcanalsoaddfruitforasecondaryfermentationatroomtemperaturewithasealedlid.Foreverycup(250ml)ofkefir,try1/2cup(100g)fruit.Addthefruittothekefirandthenletitsitforuptoadayatroomtemperature.Onceit’sready,strain,ifyoulike,andthenrefrigerate.

Letthekefirsitatroomtemperaturefor12to24hours.Thefirstfewtimesyoumakeit,youmaywanttotasteittodecidewhenit’sdone.Itshouldbethick,sour,somewhatyeasty,andabitwild,possiblywithsomebarnyardfunkiness!

Pourthekefirthroughaplasticornylonstrainerintoabowlorjar.Strainingmilkkefircanbeconfusingandstressfulatfirstbecausetheacidityofthekefircancausethemilktocurdleand/orproteinstocoagulatemoreandmoreasitferments.Ifyou’rehavingtroubledistinguishingkefirgrainsfromcoagulatedmilk,don’thesitatetouseyour(clean!)fingerstopickthroughtheglobs,shakethestrainer,orstirthegrainsinthestrainergentlywithawoodenorplasticspoon.Kefirgrainswillbefirmtothetouch,whiletheotherthingswillnotresistatallwhenyousqueezethem.Ifnecessary,youcanpickoutthekefirgrainswithyourfingersand/orpushthecurdledmilkglobsthroughthestrainer.

Metalstrainersandspoonsarenotrecommendedinanyofthisbecausetheycancutthegrains,makingithardertodistinguishthegrainsfromthekefiritself.

Yourkefirisready!Serveitnow,orifyoupreferitcoldorwanttosaveitforlater,coveritandrefrigerateit.

Transferthekefirgrainsfromthestrainertoanotherglassorceramicjarandstartanewbatchwiththemimmediately,ifpossible.Ifyou’renotgoingtouseyourgrainsrightaway,storetheminfreshmilkintherefrigerator,covered,wheretheywillbeokayforweeks.

COCONUTWATER,COCONUTMILK,FRUITJUICE,ANDNUTMILKFERMENTS

Milkkefirgrainscanbeusedtoculturecoconutwaterorcoconutmilk,fruitjuices,andnutmilks.Ifyouwanttodothis,werecommendthatyoualternatebatcheswithmilkbecausedairykefirgrainsneedlactoseonaregularbasistoremainhealthy,andlactoseisfoundonlyindairymilk.Wewouldevensuggesttwoorthreebatchesofdairymilkperbatchofotherliquids.

Freshisbetterthancannedorboxed.Juicesareeasytomakewhenyoucangetseasonalfruitsfromyourlocalfarmer’smarket.

Justsubstitute2cups(500ml)coconutwater,coconutmilk,fruitjuice,ornutmilkforthedairymilkinthisrecipeandrinsethedairykefirgrainswellwithfilteredwaterbeforebeginning.Thenproceedasyouwouldwithdairymilk.

WHEYLittleMissMuffet•Satonatuffet•Eatinghercurdsandwhey

SogoestheoldEnglishnurseryrhyme.Buthaveyoueverwonderedaboutcurdsandwhey?Whatare

they?Thesedays,manyofushavenodirectexperiencewiththem.Undercertaincircumstances,

liquiddairyproductswillseparateintoamoresolidpart,thecurds,andamoreliquidpart,thewhey.

Conditionsleadingtothisseparationincludeanincreaseinacidity,theadditionofenzymes,and

sometimesotherfactors,suchasbeingstrainedthroughcheesecloth.

YIELD:VARIABLE;1QUART(1L)OFYOGURTMAYYIELD1PINT(500ML)OFWHEYAND1PINT(500G)OFSTRAINEDYOGURT

Anyamountplain,full-fat,unsweetenedyogurtwithlivecultures

Thewheyportioncontainsagoodamountofwaterandsomewheyprotein;andifitcomesfromraworfermenteddairy,italsocontainslacticacid–producingmicrobes.Thesemicrobescanbeusedforstartingnewferments.Henceourinterestinwhey!

Notethatforwheytobe“alive,”itmustbemadefromraworfermenteddairy.Cheesemakingalsogenerateswheyasaby-product,butmostcheesemakinginvolvesheatingmilkbeyond117°F(47°C),atwhichtemperaturethemicrobesstartdyingoff;this“cooked”wheycannotreliablybeusedasafermentationstarter.

Wheycanbeusedasastarterforfermentingvegetables,makingdrinks,ormakingotherfermenteddairyproducts.Insomecases,suchaswhenfermentingvegetables,addingwheyisoptional—somepeopledoitandothersdon’t.Insomeothercases,suchaswhenmakingyogurt,youneedastarter,andwheyfromyogurtisagoodone.

Therearelotsofwaystoobtainwhey.Twooftheeasiestare(1)leavingrawmilkoutatroomtemperatureforbetweenadayandaweek,atwhichpointitwillsourandseparateonitsown,and(2)lettingyourmilkkefirfermentuntilitseparatesonitsown,whichmaytakeonlyadayorso.

Manyofusdon’thaveeasy,immediateaccesstorawmilkortomilkkefir.Inthiscase,theeasiestwaytogetwheyisbystrainingdairyyogurt.Todoso,you’llneedsomethingtostrainitwith—acleannutmilkbag,akerchief,oralargefine-meshcloth—andsomethingtostrainitinto,suchasalargemixing

bowlorpitcher.DavidAshersuggeststhekerchiefinhisbook,TheArtofNaturalCheesemaking.NourishingTraditionsauthorSallyFallonsaysthatwheycankeepforupto6

monthsintherefrigerator.You’llknowifitgoesbadbecausethingswillstartgrowingonthesurfaceofit!

Placetheyogurtinanutmilkbagorafine-meshclothinsuchawaythatyoucantieitatthetop.

Hangtheyogurt-filledfabricoveralargecontainertocatchthedrips:Tieittoawoodenspoonlaidacrossthetopofthecontainer,acabinethandle,orafixtureofsomesort.Youcanevenplacetheclothontopofastrainer.Dothisinaplacewheretheyogurtwon’tbedisturbedforawhile.Donotsqueezeit!

Thewateryliquidthatdripsintothecontaineriswhey.Theyogurtthatremainsintheclothisstrainedyogurt,Greekyogurt,yogurtcheese,oryogurtcreamcheese,dependingonwhatyouwanttocallitandhowlongyoustrainitfor.Thelongeritstrains,thefirmeritgets.

PourthewheyintoaMasonjar.Writethedateonapieceofmaskingtapeandstickittotheoutsideofthejar.Covertightlyandrefrigerate.

◁VINEGARWinesandotheralcohol-fermentedbeveragesturnintovinegarovertimewhenexposedtooxygen.

Thismeansthatvinegariseasytomake.Sometimeswemakeitwithoutevenmeaningto!Bottle

yourfinishedvinegarinrecycledwineorvinegarbottlesorinMasonjars—vinegarsarenotfizzy,so

thereisnoexplosionrisk.Andmakingyoursecondbatchofvinegarcangoquickerifyouusesome

ofyourfirstbatchasastarter;oryoucanuseastore-boughtrawvinegarinsteadasastarterifyou

like.

YIELD:VARIABLE

Wineorotheralcohol-containingfermentedbeverage

1/4cup(60ml)ofexistingrawvinegarperquart(liter)ofwine(optional)

Pourthewineintoalargeopenglassorceramicvessel.Tospeeduptheprocess,add1/4cup(60ml)rawvinegar(ifusing).Coverthevesselwithacleancloth,kitchentowel,papertowel,orcoffeefilterandsecureitwitharubberband.

Letitsitatroomtemperatureforacoupleofweekstoacoupleofmonths.Afterseveralweeks,youmayseeamatformingontop.Thatisthevinegarmother.

Tastethevinegarfromtimetotime.Ifitstilltasteslikewine(orwhateveritstartedas),letitsitafewmoreweeks.Ifyoulikethetaste,strainandbottleit.Capandstoreatroomtemperature.

NOTE:Homemadevinegarmadewiththisrecipeisgreatformostculinarypurposes.Butifyouneedyourvinegarforcanningorforanyotherapplicationwherethereischemistryinvolved,thenitissafertouseastore-boughtvinegar,sincethesearestandardizedtoparticularlevelsofacidity.

◁WATERKEFIR(TÍBICOS)Waterkefirisaquickferment,onlyadayortwo,involvingbothbacteriaandyeast.Itisdairyfree,

caffeinefree,andagreatalternativetosodas.It’sfizzierthankombucha,easierandquickertomake,

andlesschallengingflavor-wise.Forthesereasons,itcanbeagreatfirstfermenteddrink,evenfor

skeptics.

YIELD:4SERVINGS(8OUNCES,OR250ML,EACH)

1/4cup(50g)sugar,suchaspiloncillo,canesugar,orturbinado

1quart(1L)filteredwater

2tablespoons(30g)hydratedwaterkefirgrains

Rinsedandboiledshellof1egg,or4raisins,or1tablespoon(15g)aguamieldemagueyforitsexcellentmineralcontent(optional)

1/4cup(50g)choppedfruitorfrozenberriesforsecondfermentation(optional)

WaterkefirgrainsareaSCOBYthatdigestssugarandcreatesacids.TheydonotrequireteaasdokombuchaandJun,onlysugar.Buttokeepyourkefirgrainshappyandgrowing,itisbesttousedarkersugarratherthanplainwhitesugar.Piloncillo(alsoknownaspanelaorrapadura)isagreatoptionbecauseithasahighermineralcontent,whichhelpsthegrainsreproduce.Someothergoodoptionsincluderawsugar,brownsugar,molasses,andaguamieldemaguey.Anotherwaytogetthenecessarymineralsistoincludesomeraisinsorotherdriedfruit.Yetanotherwayistoincludesomeboiled,crushedeggshells.

Waterkefirgrainscanbeboughtorgiventoyouforfree.Buyingthemonlineisthemoststraightforward.Therearealsoonlinecommunitiesandpageswhereyoucantradecultureswithotheraficionados.(See“Resources”.)Thegrainsriskstarvationifleftformorethanafewdayswithnosugar,soit’simportanttomakenewbatchesonaregularschedule.Fortunately,onceyoutasteyourwaterkefir,you’llwanttomakeitallthetime!

Dissolvethesugarinahalfgallon(2L)Masonjarcontaining1quart(1L)ofwater.Ortospeedtheprocess,dissolvethesugarinthejarwith1cup(250ml)hotwaterandthenadd3cups(750ml)coldwatertogettoatotalof1quart(1L).Makesurethattheresultingsugar-watermixtureisbodytemperature(98°For37°C)orlower.

Addthekefirgrainsandtheeggshell,raisins,oraguamieldemaguey(ifusing)andthencoverwithalid.Writethebrewingdateonapieceofmaskingtapeontheoutsideofthejar.

Letitsitatroomtemperaturefor24to48hoursuntilyouseebubblingactivity.

AswithMilkKefir,strainthekefirgrainswithaplasticornylonstrainerandstartanewbatchimmediately,ifpossible.

Refrigeratethefermentedwaterkefirliquidinacoveredjaruntilreadytoserve.

Foradifferentflavor,performasecondfermentation:Inahalfgallon(2L)Masonjar,addsomechoppedfruittothebrewedwaterkefir.Closethelid.Writethebrewingdateonapieceofmaskingtapeontheoutsideofthejar.

Letitsitatroomtemperatureforanother24to48hours,atwhichtimeitwillbereadytodrinkortorefrigerate.

Becarefulwhenopeningthekefir;ithasmorefizzthankombuchaandcanexplode.It’sagoodideatorefrigeratethebottleoneortwohoursbeforeopeningit.Thiswilllessentheexplosionpotential.Onceopened,strainthefruit,ifdesired,andserve.

CHAPTERSEVEN

KOMBUCHAANDJUNKOMBUCHA,METHOD1:BATCH

KOMBUCHA,METHOD2:CONTINUOUS-BREW

SCOBYFROMSTORE-BOUGHTKOMBUCHA

FLAVOREDKOMBUCHA:SECONDFERMENTATION(2F)

COFFEEKOMBUCHA

JUN

Kombuchaisasweetandsourfermentedteadrinkand

healthtonicthatprobablyoriginatedinCentralAsia

centuriesago.Itistheproductofabacteria-and-yeast

fermentationwithabaseofsweetenedtea.Today,

kombuchaisgenerallymadewithrefinedcanesugar

(tablesugarorgranulatedsugar),althoughinthepastit

wouldhavebeenmadewithwhateversweetenerwasavailable.Mostofthesugarintroducedwhile

makingkombuchaismetabolizedbythemicrobesduringfermentation.

Itispossiblethat,likemanyfermentedfoods,kombuchawasfirstcreatedbyaccident.It’seasytoimaginepeoplemakingsweetenedtea,drinkingmostofit,andpouringtheleftoverintoavat—andthendiscoveringthatthecontentsofthevathadanintriguingsmell.Perhapssomebravesoultastedit,orperhapssomeonemistookitforsourwinevinegar.Perhapssomeonewhowasalreadymakingfruitvinegardecidedtotryaddingsomesweetteatoit,andthentheystartedusingmoreteaandlessfruit.Inanycase,theyeastsandbacteriathatmakeupthekombuchaculturelikelyfoundtheirhomeserendipitously.Justwhatexactlyarethoseyeastsandbacteria?Itdepends.Likeyogurt,

cheese,andmanyotherfermentedfoods,kombuchaisnottheproductofonespecific,fixed,globallyconstantmenagerieofmicrobes,inpreciseratios—it’sadescriptivelabelfittingacategoryoffoodswithsimilarcharacteristics.Juniskombucha’sshycousin,madewithnotjustanysweetenerbutwith

honeyspecifically.Infact,junmaypredatesugarcane-basedkombucha;honey

waswidespreadbeforesugarcanewas.Thedistinctionbetweenkombuchaandjunisslightlyarbitrary,askombuchacanbemadewithsweetenersorcombinationsofsweetenersbeyondjustcanesugar.Ifyoumakeitwithhalfsugarandhalfhoney,isitkombuchaorjun?Someofthenotabledifferencesbetweenkombuchaandjunarisebecause

kombuchaisbrewedfromadisaccharide,andjunisbrewedfromamonosaccharide.(Seechapter3.)Thismeansthat(a)jungenerallybrewsmorequicklythankombuchaand(b)junmaybeabetterchoiceforpeoplefollowingtheGAPSdietorforpeoplewithprofoundgutissues.Junalsoseemstobeabitmoretemperamentalwithrespecttobrewing.Kombuchaandjunhavebothspreadfarandwide,findinghomesamong

diversegroupsofhealth-consciouspeople.Considerthemanynamesinmanylanguagesthatkombuchahasreceivedovertheyears!

THEMANYNAMESOFKOMBUCHA

HannahCrum,“TheKombuchaMamma,”liststhemanynamesofKombucha:

•ChampagneofLife

•ChampignondeLongueVie

•Combucha

•TheDivineTsche

•EmbuyaOrientalis

•FungusJaponicus

•GoutJelly-fish

•Hongo

•IndianTeaFungus

•JapaneseTeaFungus

•Kambotscha

•Kargasoktea

•KombuchaFungus

•Kouchakinoko

•Kwassan

•ManchuFungus

•ManchurianMushroom

•ManchurianTea

•MiracleFungus

•Mo-Gu

•MotherofVinegar

•MushroomofCharity

•Olinka

•PinchiaFermentans

•TheRemedyofImmortality

•RussianJelly-fish

•RussianTea-vinegar

•Spumonto

•T’chaifromtheSea

•TheTeaBeast

•Teabeer

•TeaCider

•TeaKvass

•TeaMould

•TeaMushroom

•Teepilz

•TeekwassFungus

•Tschambucco

•VolgaFungus

THERISEOFKOMBUCHAKombuchasteppedintotheWesternmainstreaminthe1990swithacoupleofimportantmilestones.OnewasthepublicationofGüntherFrank’smonograph,Kombucha:HealthyBeverageandNaturalRemedyfromtheFarEast,ItsCorrectPreparationandUse,whichhassincebeentranslatedintomanylanguages.ItwasalsoaroundthistimethatsomeAmericanswithAIDSandcancertookinterestinkombuchaasapossibleimmune-systembooster.Ridingtherisingtideofkombucha,theNewYorkTimesin1994publisheda

playfullysensationalistarticlewithacontroversial-soundingtitle:“AMagicMushroomoraToxicFad?”Thearticlediscussedkombucha’sperceivedpotentialdanger,theculturegettingcontaminatedinsomeunspecifiedway,althoughitgavenoexamplesofcontaminationhappeningandmentionedthattheFDAhadnotreceivedanyreportsofadversereactionstoit.Thearticlemostlydismissedthesafetyconcerns,althoughitalsomostlydismissedthepotentialbenefits.Regardless,itbroughtmorepublicattentiontokombucha,documenteditspublicperception,andyieldedsomeexcellentquotes,including,“...Kombuchaisthepetrockofthe90’s—exceptthatitisalive.”Amongthosewhobecameinterestedinkombuchaforitsimmune-boosting

propertieswasaLosAngelesnativenamedGTDave,whosemotherLarainehadbeendiagnosedwithcancer.Shecreditskombuchaforhelpingherthroughcancer.Inherwords(asexplainedinhertestimonyonSynergydrinks.com),“Icreditkombuchaforkeepingmestrong,before,during,andaftermycancertreatment.”ThefamilynowrunsGT’sKombucha,theworld’sbiggestkombuchabusiness.In1999,earlyinitsexistence,GT’sKombuchabecameavailablefor

purchaseatWholeFoods,thehigh-endAmericannaturalgrocerychain.GT’sgrewquicklyfromthere.Today,thekombuchabusinessintheUnitedStatesaloneismanyhundredsof

millionsofdollarsperyear.Itsproducersevenhavetheirowntradeorganization,KombuchaBrewersInternational,foundedbykombuchaadvocatesandentrepreneursHannahCrumandAlexLaGory.It’ssafetosaythatkombuchaisnolongerexotic,obscure,orevenscarceinmuchoftheUnitedStates.Anditcontinuestogrowinpopularity.

WHYHOMEBREW?Butkombuchaisstillnotuniversal,especiallyoutsidetheUnitedStates.Becauseit’salive,fermentingdrink,itrequiresconsistentrefrigeration,makingitmoredifficulttotransportanddistributethansoda,itsnominalcompetitor.Inpoorercountries,therefrigeratedsupplychain,whichisresponsiblefordistributingrefrigeratedproductssuchasmilk,isnotasreliableasinrichcountries.Andinsomecountries—suchasSingapore—commercialsaleofkombuchahasbeenentirelybannedduetoperceivedsafetyconcerns.Fortunately,ifyouwanttodrinkkombuchabutareunabletofinditinstores,

youcanmakeityourself.(Orperhapsyoucanfindsomeonetosellittoyouprivately—there’sakombuchaundergroundontheInternet!)Youcanalsosavemoneymakingityourself.Buyingorganickombuchainthestorecancost$3to$5perpint(500ml)intheUnitedStates,sometimesmore;makingitcostsaboutatenthofthatusingcomparableingredients(organictea,organicsugar,andfilteredwater).Yetanotherreasontomakeityourselfisformulation.In2010,aUnitedStates

governmentagencytestedbottlesofkombuchatakenfromsupermarketshelvesandfoundthatsomeexceededthe0.5%ABV(alcoholbyvolume)allowedfor“non-alcoholic”beverages.(See“MeasuringAlcohol”forinformationonABV.)Thesebottlesmaynothavebeenproperlyrefrigeratedduringdistribution;improperhandlingcanincreasealcoholconcentration.TherearealsoquestionsabouttheaccuracyoftheoutdatedmethodsusedbythegovernmenttoassessABV.Regardless,kombuchamakerswereforcedtoeitherreformulatetheirbrewstopreventalcoholbuildup,orsellthemasalcoholicbeverages.GT’sKombuchahasdoneboth,offeringtwolinesofkombucha:Enlightened(reformulated)andClassic(original).Reformulatedkombuchacontainsadifferentbalanceofmicrobesfromkombucha’shistoricbalanceandhasahardtimeperpetuatingitselfwhenusedasastarter.Ifyouwantatraditionalpre-

twenty-firstcenturykombuchawithallthetraditionalprobioticbenefits,youmightconsiderbrewingyourownkombucha.Atleastonecompany,Dr.HopsKombuchaBeer,hastakenadifferenttack.

Theyarecreatingalineofhigh-alcoholkombuchas,between5%and10%ABV,withtheexpressintentofdistributingandsellingthemasalcoholicbeverages.Itseemslikeagoodstrategy;cocktailaficionadosarealwayslookingforsomethingnew.Forwhatit’sworth,it’snotclearthatallofkombucha’shealthbenefitspersistatthesealcohollevels.Someofthemicrobesmaynotsurvive,andsomeoftheenzymeswillprobablybedenatured,butthevitaminsandmineralsshoulddofine.

WHATYOU’LLNEEDYouneedthreethingstobrewkombucha:sugar;plainteafromtheteaplantCamelliasinensis;andsomeamountoflivekombucha,preferablyincludingapieceofSCOBYmat.

SUGARCanesugar,ideallyorganic,istheeasiestsugartouse.Beetsugarisnotrecommendedbecauseitisalmostalwaysgeneticallymodified.Formoreon

sugarsandsweeteners,seehere.

TEABlacktea,oolongtea,andgreenteaallcomefromtheplantCamelliasinensis,andtheyareyourbestoptionsforbrewingkombucha.Manyoftheotherthingscommonlycalled“tea”areflavoredteas,herbalinfusions,orsomethingelse.Minttea,chamomiletea,androoibos,forexample,areherbalinfusions.EarlGreyisablackteaflavoredwithoilofbergamot;oilsandbergamotcaninhibitfermentation,soEarlGreyisnotagoodchoiceformakingkombucha.CompoundsinCamelliasinensisarekeytothelongevityofthekombucha

culture.IfyouuseplainteafromCamelliasinensis,youshouldbeabletocontinueyourkombuchabrewingindefinitely,forasmanygenerationsasyoulike.Youmaybeabletomakekombuchawithotherflavorfulsweetenedliquidsforafewgenerations,butthesekombuchalineageswilllikelyfailsoonerorlater.EvencombinationsofCamelliasinensisandherbsmaynotworkinthelongrun.Ourbestadviceistobrewwithplainteaandthenaddanyotherflavoringswhilebottling,followedbysomemoretimeatroomtemperature.Thisway,yourbrewingremainsassimpleandreliableaspossible,andthechallengestoyourSCOBYareminimized.Thatsaid,whenyoudofindyourselfwithsurpluskombuchaSCOBYs,you

canattemptinterestingkombuchavariantsbybrewingwithrooibos,yerbamate,coffee,orsomethingelse.Someadventurershaveevenmadekombuchaoutofunlikelysoundingsweetbeveragessuchasorangesoda.Experimentationisgreat;justdon’tbesurprisedifthesekombuchalineagesdieout.Ifyouwanttostayinthegameinthelongterm,keeparoundsomeSCOBYsthathaveseenonlyteaandsugar.

AWORDONWATER

Usefilteredwaterwhenbrewingyourteaforkombuchabecausemunicipalwatersuppliesoftenhaveaddedchlorine,andchlorineisantimicrobial.(Formoreonwater,seehere.)Boilingtapwaterfor30minutesandallowingittocoolmayremovesometypesofchlorination;ifyouboilyourwaterbutfindyourselfhavingongoingproblemswithyourferments,tryusingawaterfilterorbottledwater.Onceyoustartinvestingmoretimeinfermentation,theexpenseofawaterfilteriseasytojustify—it’scheapfermentinginsurance,nottomentionawiseinvestmentinhealthierdrinkingwater!

SCOBYWhendiscussingkombucha,you’veprobablyencounteredthetermSCOBY,anacronymforSymbioticCommunityofBacteriaandYeast.Sowhatisit?Tobeprecise,akombuchaSCOBYisacollectionofkombuchamicrobesthatisusedtobrew,orferment,eachbatch.(TechnicallyyoucanhaveakefirSCOBYorvinegarSCOBYaswell,sincethesebothinvolveSCOBYstocultureorfermenttheliquid,butinpractice,thetermSCOBYisnotusedmuchbeyondkombuchaanditscousinjun.)ThemostvisibleaspectoftheSCOBY,alsocalledthemother,isanoff-whitematthatlookslikeaslimyFrisbeeoracalamaristeak.Thismatfloatsontopofafermentingbatchofkombucha,providingaconvenientresidenceforsomeofthebacteriaandyeast—likeacoralreefformicrobes.Thematisaby-productofthefermentationandisnotthebe-allandend-allofkombuchabrewing;itmayreceivemoreattentionthanitdeserves.Thatsaid,thegrowthofthematisexcellentevidenceoftheactivityandviabilityofabatchofkombucha.Andthegrowthofthematregulatestheliquid’saccesstooxygen;oxygenrestrictionwillfavoranaerobicfermentationandmayaffectthecompositionandprogressionofkombuchaincrucialways.We’llusethetermSCOBYtoreferspecificallytothemat.

◁KOMBUCHAMETHOD1:BATCHThebatchmethodisidealforfirst-timekombuchabrewers,asitallowsyoutobottleandrefresha

newbatchofkombuchaeachweek,inmoderateproportions(whichyoucanincreaseanddecreaseas

youseefit).It’salsothebestmethodforexperimentalkombuchas,suchasthatcoffeekombuchaor

rooiboskombuchayou’redyingtotry,wherethebrewmaynotpropagatebeyondafewgenerations.

Somepeoplepreferthebatchmethodregardless.

YIELD:1QUART(1L)

1quart(1L)filteredwater

1tablespoon(5g)loose-leaftea,or2teabags

1/4cup(50g)sugar1/4cup(60ml)maturekombuchaliquid1healthykombuchaSCOBY(maybesmall;seehereforinformationabouthowtogetone)Boil1pint(500ml)ofwaterinasmallpotoverhighheat.Removefromtheheat,addthetea,andletsteepforatleast5minutes.

Removethetealeavesorbags.Addthesugarandstirwithawoodenspoonuntildissolved.Addtheremaining1pint(500ml)ofroomtemperaturewater.

Oncethesweetenedteahascooledtobodytemperatureorbelow,transfertoalargeglassjarwithawidemouth,leavingatleast3inches(8cm)ofspaceontop.AddthekombuchaliquidandplacetheSCOBYontopoftheliquid(ifitsinks,that’sokay).Coverthejarwithacleancloth,kitchentowel,papertowel,orcoffeefilterandsecureitwitharubberband.Writethebrewingdateonapieceofmaskingtapeandstickittotheoutsideofthejar.

Letitsitatwarmroomtemperature,between75°Fand85°F(24°Cand30°C),ifpractical.Howlongyourkombuchaneedstobrewdependsonambienttemperature.Itcantake5daysinwarmweatheror2to4weekswhenit’scold.(Therearewaystoacceleratebrewingundercolderconditionsbykeepingyourkombuchawarm.Generally,theyinvolveusingaheaterorinsulation.Ifyouhaveacoldstonecountertop,tryputtingamatunderyourbrewingvessel.)Duringthebrewing,anewSCOBYmayformontopofthejar,abovetheoldSCOBY.OnceareasonablythicknewSCOBYhasformedtocoverthetoppartoftheliquid,thekombuchaiswellonitswaytobeingready.Tasteit,usingacleanladle;itshouldbetart.Ifit’sstilltoosweet,waitanotherdayortwoandtasteitagain.

Somepeople,includingmanynewkombuchaenthusiasts,willpreferasweeter,milderkombucha.Longtimekombuchaconsumersusuallyfermentitlongerforastronger,moreacidictaste.Thereisadirectinverserelationbetweensugarcontent(sweetness)andacidcontent(sourness/strongflavor)because

sugaristransformedintoacidbyfermentation.Thelongerthefermentation,thesourerthebatch.

Oncethekombuchahasreachedthedesiredflavor,puttheSCOBYasidewithabitoftheliquid.Pourthefinishedkombuchathroughastrainerandbottleitinglassbottles,Masonjars,orBPA-freeplasticbottles.Capit,optionallyleaveitoutadayortwoifyouwanteffervescence,andrefrigerateit.(Seehereforalongerdiscussionofbottlingandshownhereforadiscussionofsecondaryfermentation.)Tomakeanewbatchofkombucha,repeatthesameprocessusingyourSCOBYandreservedliquidasastarter.Ifyoudon’twanttostartanewbatchimmediately,don’tstrainoffandbottletheliquid—justleaveitasis.Thekombuchawillbecomemoreandmorevinegary.Itcanbeleftthiswayforacoupleofmonths,dependingontemperatureandotherconditions—justmakesuretotopitoffwithsweetteaiftheliquidlevelgetstoolow.Whenyouarereadytostartanewbatchofkombucha,strainoffthekombuchavinegar,useitasyouwoulduseanyothervinegar,andstartfromthetop.(Usingvinegarykombuchaasthestarterforanewbatchisfine.)

KOMBUCHAMETHOD2:CONTINUOUS-BREWHere’stheexactcontinuous-brewkombuchasetupthatAlexhasbeenusingonandoffforsome

years.Ityieldsroughlyagallon(4L)ofdrinkablekombuchaperweekduringthesummerandfall

(evenincoldSanFrancisco!)andhalfthatduringthewinter.Ifthat’snotenoughforyourneeds,you

caneitherdouble(ortriple,orwhatever)alltheamountsandsizes,oryoucanrunmultiplebrewsin

parallel.Onedecidingfactormaybeweight.Willyouneedtomoveyourbrewingsetup?Glass

vesselsareheavy,asiskombucha(waterweighs8poundspergallon,or4kilogramsper4liters)!

Anotherdecidingfactormaybeyourwillingnesstospendmoneyonalargevessel—theycanbe

expensive.Youcanalsouseapre-configuredcontinuousbrewsetup;kombuchakamp.comandother

sitessellthese.(See“Resources”formoreinformation.)YIELD:8TO16OUNCES(250TO500ML)

KOMBUCHAPERDAY,DEPENDINGONAMBIENTTEMPERATURE

BASICEQUIPMENT

1twogallon(8L),open-toppedglasscookiejarwithabungholenearthebottom1polypropylene,BPA-free,acid-safe,made-in-USA(toensurethematerialmeetssafetystandards)spigottofitcookiejar(withgasketsasneeded)1halfgallon(2L)Masonjar

1cleankitchentowel

1largerubberband

ADDITIONALEQUIPMENT1long-handledwoodenspoon

1electronicscale(withatleast1gresolution)

Ifusingloosetea:1morehalfgallon(2L)Masonjar,andafine-meshstrainerBOTTLINGEQUIPMENT

1ormorehalfgallon(2L)carboys

ORatleasttwoquarts’(2L)worthofMasonjarsofanysize

ORatleast4oldcommercial16ounce(500ml)kombuchabottlesSTARTERINGREDIENTS

1healthykombuchaSCOBY

1to4quarts(1to4L)kombuchaliquid

REFRESHINGREDIENTS130grams(approximately2/3cup)granulatedsugar2quarts(2L)water

10gramsorganictea(approximately5teaspoons,or4teabags—2blackand2green)Theadvantagesofthecontinuous-brewmethodincludethefollowing:■Becauseyouareneverstartingfromscratch,thereisamoreconsistentlylowpHduringbrewing,decreasingthelikelihoodofcontamination.

■Thereislesspouringofstickyliquidsbackandforth.■Schedulingflexibilityissomewhatincreased.

■Youmayencounteramorediversemenagerieofmicrobesbecausemorephasesofthekombuchametabolismtakeplacesimultaneously.

Thedownsidesareasfollows:■Thereisasomewhatgreaterup-frontinvestmentinequipment.■Thereismoreofaneedforapermanentlocationfortheequipmentbecauseitmaybebiggerandheavier.

METHOD

Oncethingsareupandrunning,thegoalistomaintain6quarts(6L)ofliquidinthebrewingvessel,withaSCOBYontop.Fromtimetotime,wedrainoff2quarts(2L)offully-brewedkombuchaviathespigotandbottleit;thenweadd2quarts(2L)ofbrewedsweetteabacktothebrewingvesseltobringthetotalamountbackupto6quarts(6L).Thenweletthekombuchabrewforsomenumberofdays,untilit’sdone;thenwebottleanother2quarts(2L)offullybrewedkombuchaasbeforeandrepeat.Inawarmenvironment,theentirecyclemighttakeaslittleas3days;inacolderenvironment,itcouldtake8days.

TheSCOBYatthetopofthejarwillbecomethickerandgainlayersastimegoeson.Whenitgetsmorethan1to2inches(2.5to5cm)thick,peeloffseverallayersbyhandandgivethem,alongwithsomeliquid,toafriend,sothatyourfriendcanstartmakingkombucha!Orgivethemtoastrangerviacraigslist,reddit,orFacebook.Grindthemupandusethemasafacialmask,orfeedthemtoyourdogorgoat.FolkshaveevendriedthemandsewnthemintoSCOBY-leatherjackets!

INITIALSETUP

Ifyouhaveaglassjarwithaplasticormetallicspigot,removethespigotbecauseitisunlikelythatitissuitableforlong-termuseinanacidicenvironment.Installthenewspigotthatyouboughtseparatelyandensurethatithasagood,watertightsealbyputtingsomewaterinthejarandcheckingforleaks.It’sbesttosortthisoutnow,whenthere’snokombuchainthejar!

Pour6quarts(6L)waterintothejar.(Youcanusethehalfgallon[2L]Masonjarasameasuringcup.)Placeapieceofmaskingtapeonthesideofthejarsothatthetopofthetapeisatthelevelof6quarts(6L)ofwaterinthejar.Dumpoutthewater,butleavethetapeonthejar.

PlacetheSCOBYandinitialkombuchainthejar.Arrangeacleankitchentoweloverthetopofthevesselandsecureitwitharubberband.

Brewsweetteausingtheprocedurebelow,andaddittothejaruntilSCOBYandteareachthetapemark.

CONTINUOUSBREWING

Placetheteabagsorlooseteainahalfgallon[2L]Masonjar.Boil1quart(1L)ofwaterandpourintotheMasonjaroverthetea.Letsteepfor15minutes.Removetheteabags,orifyouareusingloosetea,pourtheliquidthroughastrainerintoanotherMasonjar.Stirthesugarintotheteawithawoodenspoonuntildissolved.Add1morequart(1L)ofroomtemperaturewater.

Atthispoint,thesweetenedteashouldnotbesohotthatitburnsyourfinger.Stickyour(clean!)indexfingerintothebrewed,sweetenedteaandleaveitthereforacountoften.Ifithurts,theteaistoohot;letitcoolandtryagainlater.Oncetheteaiscoolenoughforyourfinger,it’scoolenoughforthekombucha.

Removetherubberbandandthekitchentowelfromthetopofyourkombuchavessel.

Ifthekombuchaliquidinthejarisatorabovethelevelofthetape,giveitavigorousstirwiththewoodenspoontodistributethesedimentandyeastevenlyinthevessel.(Don’tworryifthisdisturbstheSCOBYfloatingatthetopoftheliquid.)Drainoffliquidviathespigotintoaglassuntiltheleveloftheliquidmatchesthetape.Drinkitorsaveitforbottling.Drainoffafurtherhalfgallon(2L)oftheliquidviathespigotintoyourbottlingcontainers.

PourtheteaintothebrewingvesselovertheSCOBY.Theleveloftheliquidshouldbeclosetothetape.Iftheliquidisalittlebelowthetape,addfilteredwateruntiltheyalign.Giveitastir.

Replacethekitchentowelandrubberband.After3days,drainoffsomeliquidviathespigotintoasmallglassandtaste

it.Ifit’stoosweet,waitanotherdayortwoandtryagainbeforebottlingyour2quarts(2L)orso.Bepreparedtotryafewtimesifyourbrewingenvironmentisonthecolderside.Onceittastesright,repeattheentireprocedure,fromthetop!

SCOBYFROMSTORE-BOUGHTKOMBUCHAIfyoudon’thaveaSCOBYavailable,youmaybeabletogrowonefromabottleofstore-bought

kombucha.IfyouareintheUnitedStates,youwillhavethebestchancesofsuccesswithaclassic-

stylekombucharatherthanareformulatedone(seehere).Classickombuchasaretypicallylabeled

andsoldasalcoholicbeverages,althoughtheiralcoholcontentisgenerallyquitelow.

YIELD:1SCOBY

2cups(500ml)filteredwater

1/2tablespoon(5g)loose-tealeaves,or1teabag2tablespoons(25g)granulatedsugar

1bottle(12to16ounces,or375to500ml)store-bought,raw,unflavored,tea-basedkombuchaBoil2cups(500ml)ofwaterinasmallpotoverhighheat.Removefromtheheat,addthetea,andletsteepfor5to10minutes.Removethetealeavesandaddthesugar;stiruntildissolved.Letcooluntilcomfortabletothetouch.

Transfertheteatoahalfgallon(2L)Masonjarandpourinthestore-boughtkombucha.Coverwithacleancloth,kitchentowel,papertowel,orcoffeefilterandsecureitwitharubberbandorMasonjarring.Leaveitatroomtemperature.

Dependingmostlyontemperature,aSCOBYmayformin1to3weeks.Bepatient,butifnothinghashappenedafter6weeks,it’slikelythatnothingwillhappen—it’stimetogiveupandtryagain.

LettheSCOBYthickento1/4inch(6mm)ifit’sgrowing—butit’sprobablyokayifitdoesn’tgettothatthickness.Useittomakeyournextbatchofkombucha!

FLAVOREDKOMBUCHASECONDFERMENTATION(2F)

Secondaryfermentationisanicewaytogivekombuchaakick.Itcanmakeitmorebubblyand

impartsomeinterestingflavors.(Seesidebar).Ifflavoringlargerbatchesofkombucha,increasethe

amountoffruityouuseaccordingly.Flip-top(Grolsch-style)bottlesworkwell,asdocommercial

kombuchabottles,Masonjars,orsmallcarboysorgrowlers.

Upto1/4cup(55g)fresh,dried,orfrozenfruitperquart(liter)kombuchaFreshordriedherbs,spices,androotstotaste

16ounces(500ml)ormorekombucha

Peelanynonorganicingredients.Cutorchopeverythingintosmallpiecesorpuréeinafoodprocessor.

Pourthekombuchaliquid(withouttheSCOBY)intobottles,leavingspacefortheingredientsyouwillbeadding.Addthefruitandotheringredients,leavingaslittleairaspossible.Sealorcaptightly.Writethebrewingdateonpiecesofmaskingtapeandstickthemtotheoutsideofthebottles.

Letthemsitatroomtemperaturefor2daysto2weeks.Thewarmeritis,thelesstimeisneeded.

Topreventkombuchaexplosions,refrigeratethebottlesofkombuchaforatleast1hourbeforeopening.Serveasisorstrainoutanysolidsbeforedrinking.Refrigerateafteropening.

BOTTLINGTIP:Bottlesomeofyourkombuchainasmall,BPA-freeplasticbottle.Squeezethebottleduringthesecondaryfermentationprocesstogetasenseofhowmuchpressurehasbuiltup.Forafurtherdiscussionofbottlingstrategies,seehere.

WARNING:Donotshakebeforeopening.Itcancreatequiteamess!Swirlinggentlyisokay.

SUGGESTEDFLAVORCOMBINATIONS

Herearesomeofourfavoritefruitandspice/herbcombosforflavor-basedkombucha:•BlueberryLavender

•GuavaRose

•TurmericRaisin

•GrapefruitRosemary

•StrawberryMint

•CherryBasil

•OrangeGinger

•MixedBerry

•RoseTeaCherry

•GingerLemon

COFFEEKOMBUCHAHere’sanotherwaytogetadifferentflavor:Useadifferentliquid...suchascoffee!ThenewSCOBY

thisbatchformsmayormaynotbehealthyenoughtocreateanotherbatch.Tomaximizeyour

chancesofsuccess,useatea-bredSCOBYforeverynewbatchofcoffeekombuchayoumake.

YIELD:1QUART(1L),ABOUT3TO4SERVINGS

1/4cup(50g)granulatedsugar1quart(1L)freshlybrewedcoffee

KombuchaSCOBY

1/4cup(60ml)kombuchaliquidDissolvethesugarinthehotcoffeeinahalfgallon(2L)Masonjarandletitcooltoroomtemperature.AddtheSCOBYandkombuchaliquid.Coverwithacleancloth,kitchentowel,papertowel,orcoffeefilterandsecureitwithrubberbandorMasonjarring.Writethebrewingdateonapieceofmaskingtapeandstickittotheoutsideofthejar.

Leaveitatroomtemperatureapproximately7daysoruntilanewkombuchaSCOBYhasformed.

JUNJunisakombuchavariantmadewithhoneyasthesweetener.Thereareafewnotabledifferences

betweenthetwo:■Junbrewsquickerthansugarkombucha,perhapsbecause(disaccharide)sugar

usedforkombuchaneedstobebrokendownintoitsconstituentfructoseandglucose,whereas

(mostlymonosaccharide)honeyusedforjundoesnotneedthisbreakdownprocess.

■Junishappierbrewingatlowertemperaturesthankombucha.■Jundoesbestwithgreentea,whilekombuchabrewedwithsugarseemstobelesspicky.

■Becausehoneyhasalreadybeenbrokendownintofructoseandglucose,itissuitableforpeopleontheGAPSdiet,whilesugar(sucrose)isnot.

Sobrewingjunratherthanstandardkombuchamightmakesenseifyouhaveasteadysourceof

honey,ifyouliveinacoolerclimate,orifyouhaveahealthreasontofavorit.Ontheotherhand,if

youbuyyoursweetenersatthestore,brewingstandardkombuchawillbesignificantlycheaperthan

brewingjunbecausesugarischeaperthanhoney.

Thisrecipeisjustlikethebatchkombucharecipeshownhere,exceptthatinsteadofdissolvingsugar

inhottea,wedissolvehoneyinsomewhatcoolertea.Thispreservestheenzymesintherawhoney.

YIELD:4SERVINGS

1quart(1L)filteredwater

1tablespoongreentealeaves(5g)or2bagsgreentea1/4cup(75g)rawhoney1/2cup(125ml)liquidJun1healthyJunSCOBY

Boil1pint(500ml)ofwaterinasmallpotoverhighheat.Removefromtheheat,addthetea,andletsteepforatleast5minutes.

Removethetealeaves.Addtheremaining1pint(500ml)ofroomtemperaturewater.Testthewatertemperaturewithyourfinger.Whenit’scomfortabletoyourfinger,addthehoneyandstirwithawoodenspoonuntildissolved.

Transfertoalargeglassjarwithawidemouth,leavingatleast3inches(8cm)ofspaceontop.AddthejunliquidandplacetheSCOBYontop.Coverwithacleancloth,kitchentowel,papertowel,orcoffeefilterandsecureitwitharubberband.Writethebrewingdateonapieceofmaskingtapeontheoutsideofthejar.

Letitsitatroomtemperature,between68°Fand77°F(20°Cand25°C),ifpractical.Howlongyourjunneedstobrewdependsonambienttemperature,butitusuallybrewsquickerthankombucha.Threeto5daysisagoodwindow.

Duringthebrewing,anewSCOBYmayformontopofthejarandtheoldSCOBYmaysink.OnceareasonablythicknewSCOBYhasformedtocoverthetoppartoftheliquid,thejuniswellonitswaytobeingready.Tasteit,usingacleanladle;itshouldbetart.Ifit’sstilltoosweet,waitanotherdayortwoandtasteitagain.

ProceedasforKombucha.Alternately,usethecontinuous-brewmethodbyfollowingthestepsshown

here.ReplacethekombuchaSCOBY,liquid,andsugarwiththejunSCOBY,liquid,andhoney.Rememberthatjunbrewsbestingreentea.

CHAPTEREIGHT

VEGETABLEDRINKSBEETKVASS

CUCUMBERPICKLEBRINE

RADISHBRINE

JUICEDFERMENTEDVEGETABLES

KIMCHISODA

FERMENTEDGREENJUICE

FermentedvegetabledrinkshavemoreBandC

vitaminsthantheirfreshjuicecousins.Becauseofthe

fermentation,theyalsocontainsignificantlymore

enzymesandlesssugar,sincethemicrobesproduce

enzymestotransformsugarsintoacids,vitamins,and

otherthings.Thesugarinfreshjuicescanbe

problematicforsomepeople.Andthesearejusttheadvantagesthatfermentedjuiceshaveover

fresh,rawjuices.Whenyoulookatcommercialpasteurizedjuices,even100%juice,notfrom

concentratejuices,orcoldpasteurizedjuices,thedifferencesareevenmoredramaticbecausethe

enzymesandsomevitaminsarelostinprocessing.

◁BEETKVASSBeetkvassisthebrinefromfermentedbeets(beetroot).Itcombinesthebenefitsofbeetswiththe

benefitsoffermentation!BeetscontainvitaminB9(folate)andvitaminC,plusironandavarietyof

mineralsthatarenecessaryforpropernerveandmusclefunctionandforhealthybones,liver,

kidneys,andpancreas.

Beetkvassiseasytomake,andashotofitisagreatmorningtonicandorgancleanser.Ifyoubuy

organicbeetsandginger,youdon’tevenhavetopeelthem.Thisrecipeworkswellinahalfgallon(2

L)Masonjar.

YIELD:ABOUT11/2QUARTS(1.5L)2or3beets,peeledifnotorganic

1inch(2.5cm)offreshginger,peeledifnotorganic(optional)1inch(2.5cm)ofsprigrosemary(optional)

Approximately11/2quarts(1.5L)filteredwater1tablespoon(15g)seasalt

Coarselychopthebeetsinto1/2-to1-inch(1to2.5cm)pieces.Cuttheginger(ifusing)into1/4-inch(6mm)chunks.Placethebeets,ginger,androsemary(ifusing)inahalfgallon(2L)Masonjar.Fillthejarhalfwaywithfilteredwater.Addthesalt,closethelid,andshake.Oncethesalthasdissolved,openthelidandfillwithwatertotheshoulderofthejar,leaving1to2inches(2.5to5cm)ofspaceatthetop.Closethelid.Writethedateonapieceofmaskingtapeandstickittotheoutsideofthejar.

Letitsitforafewdaysto1weekifyourroomiswarm,orfor2or3weeksifit’scooler.Thekvasswillprogresswellifyoukeepthelidclosed.Gentlyagitateonceadaytoensurethatmolddoesnotform.Youknowit’sonitswaywhenitstartsgettingfoamy.Onceyouopenthelid,though,it’sbesttostrainthekvassandrefrigerateitbecauseifyoucloseitagainandleaveitatroomtemperature,moldscantakehold.

Whenyou’rereadytoputitintothefridge,pouritthroughastrainertoseparatethebeets(andotheroptionalingredients)fromtheliquid.Thekvassistheliquid.Keepitcoveredintherefrigeratoranddrinkitcoldifyoulike.

Keepthebeetchunksintherefrigerator,too.Theycanbechoppedupandthrowninsaladsorsoups,blendedandaddedtosaladdressing,orputthroughajuicer.Oryoucanblendthebeetchunkswithsomeofthekvassasthebaseforafermentedbeetgazpachoorborscht!

VARIATION:Substitute6carrotsforthebeets.(Gingergoeswellincarrotkvass;rosemarymayoverwhelmit.)Carrotkvassisagoodoptionforpeoplewhodon’tlikebeets,andit’sagoodwaytostartdevelopingatasteforfermentedtonics.

CUCUMBERPICKLEBRINEThisisafermentedpicklerecipethatisquickerthansome,anditproducesanicebrine.Ifyourunintomoldproblems,addmoreleavesorspicesand/orbumpuptheamountofsaltabit.Oak,grape,andmesquiteleaves,tea,andpicklingspicesallcontaintannins.Tanninsareantifungal,sotheydiscouragemoldsandyeastsfrompopulatingthepicklesandpicklebrine.Garlicandgingerhaveantifungalpropertiestoo.

YIELD:ABOUT1QUART(1L)OFBRINE

21/2tablespoons(40g)seasalt1quart(1L)filteredwater

1to2cups(125to250g)coarselychoppedcucumber

Yourchoiceofherbsandspicessuchaspeeledwholeclovesgarlic,peeled(ifnotorganic)andslicedginger,slicedorrough-cutonionsorsmallpearlonions,picklingspices,and/orwholepeppercorns1or2oak,grape,ormesquiteleaves,oroneblackteabagPreparethebrine:StirthesaltintothefilteredwaterinawidemouthMasonjaroraceramiccrockuntildissolved.Ifyouareimpatient,heatsomeofthewater,dissolvethesaltinit,andthenaddtherestofthecoolerwater;besurethattheliquidisapproximatelyroomtemperaturebeforeproceeding.

Placethecucumbers,herbs,spices,andleavesintoajar.Pourthebrineoverthevegetables,coveringthembyatleast2inches(5cm).Weighingdownthevegetablestokeepthemunderthebrineishelpful,althoughitisnotstrictlynecessary.Thiscanbeaccomplishedwithasmallplate;ceramicfermentationweights;boiledlarge,flatstones;orothervegetablepiecesandcanhelppreventmoldfrombecomingaproblemandkeepthingscrisper.

Closethelidandplacethejarontopofatrayincaseitleaks.Thisisagoodopportunitytouseajar-sizeairlock,ifyouhaveone.(Seechapter4.)Writethedateonapieceofmaskingtapeandstickittotheoutsideofthejar.

Ifyou’renotusinganairlock,thenduringthefirstfewdays,pressurewillbuildup.Itisagoodideatocheckthejaronceortwiceaday.Burpthejarbyquicklyopeningandclosingthelidtoletpressureout.

Tasteonday3.Oncethepickleshavesoftenedalittleandthebrinetasteslikepickles,transfertotherefrigerator.Youcaneatthepicklesanddrinkthebrineatanytime.

Don’tletthecucumbersfermentfortoolongduringhotweatherbecausetheycanquicklybecomesoftordevelopmold.Ifyouseemoldformingontop,discardandstartagain.Evenifthepicklesdon’tgetmoldy,theycanlosetheircrispness.Softpicklesaren’tmuchfun,butevenifyouthrowoutthepickles,iftherearenosignsofmold,thebrineisagreatprobioticdrink.

RADISHBRINERadishbrineisatwistonaregularpicklebrine,withanintense,pepperyflavor.

YIELD:ABOUT1QUART(1L)BRINE

Upto1cup(75g)finelyshreddedcabbage(optional)

21/2tablespoons(40g)plus1teaspoon(5g)seasalt1quart(1L)filteredwater

1to2cups(125to225g)wholeorhalvedradishes

Yourchoiceofherbsandspicessuchaspeeledwholeorslicedgarlic;peeled(ifnotorganic)andslicedginger;smallonions;and/orpicklingspices,suchasbayleaves,oakleaves,cinnamon,mustardseeds,wholepeppercornsPlacethecabbage(ifusing)inalargemixingbowl.Add1teaspoon(5g)ofsaltandmixthoroughlywithyourcleanhands.Squeezeuntiltheshreddedcabbagereleasesitsjuice.

Preparethebrine:Stir21/2tablespoons(40g)ofsaltintothefilteredwaterinawidemouthjarormixingbowluntildissolved.

Placetheradishesandspicesinalargejar.Addthecabbageanditsjuice.Pourthebrineoverthevegetables,coveringthembyatleast2inches(5cm).Weighdownthevegetableswithsomethingtokeepthembelowthesurface,ifdesired.Dependingonwhatvesselyou’reusing,weightoptionsincludeasmallplate,ceramicfermentationweights,andothervegetablepieces.

Closethelidandplacethejarontopofatray.Writethedateonapieceofmaskingtapeandstickittotheoutsideofthejar.

Duringthefirstfewdays,pressurewillbuildup.Itisagoodideatocheckthejaronceortwiceaday.Burpthejarbyquicklyopeningandclosingthelidtoletpressureout.Orifyouprefer,useanairlocklid.(Seechapter4.)Starttastingaroundday5.Onceyoulikethetaste,transfertotherefrigeratororleaveatroomtemperature.

◁JUICEDFERMENTEDVEGETABLESFermentedvegetablessuchassauerkrautandkimchicanbeeasilytransformedintoaprobioticdrink

ortonic.Putyourfermentedvegetablesthroughajuicerandvoilá!Youcandrinktheliquidstraight

outofthejuicer.Oryoumaywanttoenjoyitgradually,bybottlingitandrefrigeratingit.Serveit

withrawoystersorclamsasashooterorinashotglassasadigestifchaserforacheeseand

charcuterieplate.

Ifyouhavejarsofvegetablefermentsthathavebeensittinginyourfridgestaringatyouforlonger

thanyou’dcaretoadmit,thisisagreatdestinyforthem.It’salsogoodformixology—folksare

alwayslookingforcocktailinspiration.Youcanmixitwithbeertomakeafermentedmicheladaor

withvodkaaspartofafermentedKimchiBloodyMary.

Forhowtomakefermentedvegetablesbeyondthecucumberpicklesandradishes,seethe

“Resources”section,searchtheInternet,orcheckoutAlex’spreviousbook,RealFoodFermentation.

KIMCHISODAWhocanresistkimchisoda?!It’sspicy,garlicky,andbriny.Asaltrimisapossibility,butprobably

redundant!Ifyouneedsomethingtowakeyouupinthemorning,takeagoodchugofkimchisoda.

Youmaynotneedcoffeeanymore.Andallthatgarlicmaykeepthemosquitosaway,nottomention

yourcoworkers,family,andfriends!

YIELD:2SERVINGS

1/2cup(75g)kimchi2cups(500ml)sparklingwater

Adashoflime(optional)

Ice(optional)

Putthekimchithroughajuicerorblenditinablenderandstrainthejuice.Pourthekimchijuiceintotwoglassestoserve.Trymargaritaorbeerglassesifyouwanttoexploreasaltrimorchampagneglassestoshowoffthebubbles.Addsparklingwater,lime,andice(ifusing)andserve.Ifyou’rearealkimchilover,addmorekimchijuiceorevengarnishwithchunksorslicesofkimchi.

FERMENTEDGREENJUICEOurfriendMarcelaMerino,rawfoodchefandfounderofRawdelicious,gaveusthisrecipe.She

alwayshasamazingrecipesforgreenjuicesandsmoothies,sowethoughtitwouldbefuntotrya

fermentationtwistononeofherbasicgreenjuices.Tryitwithasaltrim!

YIELD:1SERVING

1/2ofacucumber,peeled4celerysticks

1cupfreshorfermented(30gor180g)spinachor(70gor130g)kale1greenapple

1lemon,peeled(ifnotorganic)andquartered

1inch(2.5cm)ginger,peeledifnotorganic

1/4cup(40g)sauerkrautPutalltheingredientsthroughajuicer.Serveimmediately.

CHAPTERNINE

SODASHIBISCUSSODA

GRAPESODA

FRUITYSODA

LEMONGINA/LIMEGINA

ORANGINA

FRUITJUICESODAS

COCONUTSODAKEFIR

Asodaisanytypeofsweetdrinkwithbubblesthatis

notalcoholicorhasonlytraceamountsofalcohol.

Whenwethinkaboutsodas,weusuallypictureaCoca-

ColaoraMountainDew.Butthisisnotthepictureofa

healthyprobioticdrink!

TheKimchiSodarecipeshownherewasnotananomaly;inthischapter,wewillshowyouthat

makingdelicioussodasathomeiseasy,cheap,andhealthy.Addingfermentedsodastoyourdietisa

greatwaytocurbyourconsumptionofunhealthysodas.Evenyourkidswilllovethem!

◁HIBISCUSSODAJamaicaistheMexicannameforhibiscus.Itisalsothenameofoneofthemostpopularandwidely

consumedhomemadedrinksinMexico;it’smadefromwater,hibiscusflower,andsugar.Whenyou

sitdowntolunchataMexicanhome,youmaybeasked:“LimonadaorJamaica?”Asakid,Raquel

neverthoughtJamaicawasanythingotherthanared,sweet,delicious,andrefreshingdrink.

Aboutayearago,RaquelinvitedSandorKatztoherhometownofMonterrey,Mexico,whereheleda

fermentationconference.Onedaywhiletheywerediscussingthedifferencesbetweenkombucha

andotherfermentedbeverages,sheaskedhimhowtointroducekombuchaintohercommunity.With

amischievoussmile,hesuggested,“Whydon’tyoustartbywildlyfermentingabeveragethat

everybodyalreadylikesandisusedto?”Thus,HibiscusSodawasborn—awildfermentationrecipe—

ambientmicrobesdothework,andnostarterisneeded.

YIELD:ABOUT6SERVINGS(8OUNCES,OR250ML,EACH

8cups(2L)filteredwater

21/2ounces(75g)driedhibiscusflowers

3/4cup(150g)granulatedsugar

Bringthewatertoaboilinasaucepanoverhighheat.Addthehibiscusflowers,cover,reducetheheat,andsimmerfor15minutes.Removethesaucepanfromtheheatandstraintheliquidintoabowl(theflowerscanbedriedtomakeanutritioussnack).Addthesugartotheliquidandstirwithakitchenspoonorspatulauntildissolved.Lettheliquidcooltoroomtemperature.

PourtheliquidintoabigglassMasonjarorintoafewsmallerones,leavingabout2inches(5cm)ofspaceatthetop(useafunnel,ifyouhaveone,topreventaredandstickycountertop!).Coverthejarorjarswithacleancloth,kitchentowel,papertowel,orcoffeefilterandsecureitwitharubberbandorMasonjarring.Writethebrewingdateonapieceofmaskingtapeandstickittotheoutsideofthejar.

Letthejarssitatroomtemperatureuntiltheliquidstartsbubbling.Thismaytakeanywherefrom3to10days,dependingonambienttemperature—thewarmertheweather,thesooneritwillstartbubbling.Stirdailywithawoodenspoontopreventmoldfromforming.Letitbubbleforadayortwoandthentasteit.Thetasteshouldbemoretartandlesssweet.Ifit’sstillonthesweeterside,letitbubbleanothercoupleofdaysandtasteitagain.

Onceyoulikethetaste,bottleitinserving-sizebottlesandrefrigerateit.Thisfermentedbeverageisevenlivelierthanmost,soconsiderbottlinginthickglassorBPA-freeplasticbottlesorheedtherecommendationsinthelongerdiscussionofbottlingstrategiesshownhere.Becareful:Ifyouhandleitcasuallyorfailtorefrigerateitconsistently,youmayhaveexplodingbottlesonyourhands!

GRAPESODAAsachildinMexico,RaquelusedtoloveagrapesodacalledGrapette.Itcameinaverysmallglass

bottleandtastedlikeheaven!Grapetteeventuallydisappeared,butwhenevershethinksaboutit

thesedays,shegetsawarmlongingfeelingofchildhood.Today’ssodasarefilledwithartificial

flavorsandhighfructosecornsyrupandhavenonutritionalbenefit.Makingthisimprovedversion

bringsbackhappymemories!

YIELD:4TO5SERVINGS(8OUNCES,OR250ML,EACH)

1quart(1L)WaterKefir

1/4to1/2cup(40to75g)frozengrapesor(60to125ml)grapejuice

PourthestrainedwaterkefirintoliddedMasonjars,flip-topGrolsch-stylebottles,oroldkombuchabottles.Addthegrapesorgrapejuiceandclosethelids.Writethebrewingdateonapieceofmaskingtapeandstickittotheoutsideofthejarsorbottles.

Letitsitatroomtemperaturefor24to48hours.Thisisthesecondaryfermentation.Secondaryfermentationkefircanbeverypotent,sobecarefulwhenopeningthebottles.Gasbuildupcanbeextremeandexplosionscanoccur!Topreventaccidents,itisagoodideatorefrigeratethebottlesforacoupleofhoursbeforeopening.

FRUITYSODAIfyoufindyourselfwithmorefruitthanyouknowwhattodowith,here’sagoodwaytodo

somethinginterestingwithit.

YIELD:7SERVINGS(8OUNCES,OR250ML,EACH)

4cups(900g)choppedseasonalfruits

7cups(1.75L)filteredwater

1/2cup(100g)granulatedsugar

Peelanyfruitsthatyouwouldtypicallypeel,includingoranges,grapefruits,pricklypears,mango,melon,pineapple,andwatermelon.Youdon’tneedtopeelanyotherfruits,suchasapples,pears,andgrapes.Chopthefruitinto4cups(900g)of1/2-inch(1.5cm)chunks.

Warm2cups(500ml)ofwaterinapotoverlowheat.Stirinthesugaruntildissolved.TransfertoabigceramicorglasscontainerorseparateintotwowidemouthMasonjars.Addtheremaining5cups(1.25L)ofwater.Stirinthechoppedfruit.

Coverwithacleancloth,kitchentowel,papertowel,orcoffeefilterandsecureitwitharubberbandorMasonjarring.Writethebrewingdateonapieceofmaskingtapeandstickittotheoutsideofthejar.

Threetimesaday,openthejar,stirvigorously,andreplacethecover.Within3to7days,therewillbealotofbubbling.Stireverydaytopreventmold.

Oncethebubblinghaspeakedandhasjuststartedtodiedown,strainoutthefruit.Bottlethesoda.

◁LEMONGINA/LIMEGINAThisisanexcellentsportsdrinkcontainingelectrolytes,vitamins,andsomeprotein.Ittasteslike

lemonorlimesoda,butnotassweet.Itishighlyrecommendedafterexerciseoronahotsummer

day!

YIELD:4SERVINGS(8OUNCES,OR250ML,EACH)

1quart(1L)filteredwater

1/2cup(100g)granulatedsugar

Pinchofseasalt

Juiceof4lemons,limes,oracombination

1/2cup(125ml)liveWhey

1/4cup(65g)frozenraspberries(optional)

Warm1pint(500ml)ofwaterinapotoverlowheat.Stirinthesugarandsaltuntildissolved.Removefromtheheat,addtheremaining1pint(500ml)ofwater,andletitcooldownbelowbodytemperature.Addthelemonjuice,whey,andraspberries(ifusing).

PourtheLemonginaintoaglassorceramicjarandclosethelidandshake.Writethebrewingdateonapieceofmaskingtapeandstickittotheoutsideofthejar.

Letitsitatroomtemperaturefor3to7days,dependingonthetemperature.Agitateatleastonceadaytopreventmoldfromforming.Begintastingatthefirstsignofbubbles.Itisdonewhenitisfizzyandsourandtangy.

Refrigerateonceitreachesdesiredtaste.Theraspberriesmayberemovedorleftin.

ORANGINAForRaquel,OranginainstantlyconjuresmemoriesofcarefreeteenagesummersinFrance,tryingto

practiceherFrenchwhileorderingOranginaandcroquemonsieurs.Tooyoungforwineandnot

havingyettheacquiredtasteforespresso,Oranginawasherbeverageofchoice.

Afewyearsback,shestumbledupontheOranginarecipeinSallyFallon’sbook,NourishingTraditions.

PostcardsfromcafesandstreetsinFranceimmediatelyfloodedhermind.Oranginaasaprobiotic

healthybeverage—whatcouldbebetter?

YIELD:4SERVINGS(8OUNCES,OR250ML,EACH)

2cups(500ml)orangejuice

Pinchofseasalt

2tablespoons(30ml)Wheyor1tablespoon(15g)milkkefirgrains

Juiceof1lemonorlime

2cups(500ml)filteredwater

Combinealltheingredientsinaglassorceramicjar.Coverwiththelid.Writethebrewingdateonapieceofmaskingtapeandstickittotheoutsideofthejar.

Letitsitatroomtemperatureforatleast2to3daysoruntilitgetsfizzy.Ifyouaddedkefirgrainsinsteadofwhey,strainthemout,rinsethemwith

nonchlorinatedwater,andrefreshthemwithfreshmilk.TransfertheOranginatotherefrigerator.Letcoolandserve.

FRUITJUICESODASDavidAsher,authorofTheArtofNaturalCheesemaking,suggestsusingmilkkefirgrainstoferment

fruitjuices.It’saneasymethod,andyou’llbeamazedattheendresults.Thetasteisveryspecial,and

ifleftlonger,itstartstoresemblealightsparklingwine.Forthehealthiestresults,considerusing

fresh-squeezedjuicesinsteadofpasteurizedjuicesfromthesupermarket.Pasteurizationdestroysthe

enzymesandsomeofthevitaminsthatmakefruithealthy.Fermentingbringssomeofthemback,

butthemoreyoustartwith,thebetter.

YIELD:1QUART(1L)

1quart(1L)fruitjuice,suchasapple,grape,orange,pear,ormango

1tablespoon(15g)milkkefirgrains,rinsedwithfilteredwater

PourthefruitjuiceintoaBPA-freeplasticbottleorglassjar.Addthekefirgrainsandmixwellbystirringorclosingandshaking.Writethebrewingdateonapieceofmaskingtapeandstickittotheoutsideofthejar.

Letitrestatroomtemperaturefrom1to3days,dependingonthetemperature.Openthejarorbottledailytoreleasegas.Tasteperiodicallyandreplacethecoverifnotyetdone.Refrigeratewhenyoulikethetaste,beforethebubblingactiondiesdown.

APPLECIDERSODA

SeetheAppleCiderrecipeshownhere.AppleCiderSodaisthefirstphase!Fromthereyoucanmoveontohardcidersandvinegars.

◁COCONUTSODAKEFIRCoconutwaterisagreatdrinkforwhenyouneedtohydratebecauseofitselectrolytecontent.Kefir

grainsaddthebenefitsoffermentation,makingthisarefreshingandnutritivedrink,perfectafter

workoutsoronahotsummerday.Ittastesrefreshinglytropical.FollowtherecipeforWaterKefir,

butusecoconutwater(freshorstore-bought)insteadoffilteredwater.

Rememberthataftermakingabatchofcoconutwaterkefiroranyotherunusualkefirwithwater

kefirgrains,itisbesttomakeabatchofwaterkefirusingplainsugarwatertogivethekefirgrainsa

chancetogetbacktonormal.

Ifyoufindthatthecoconutsodaisnotsweetorbubblyenough,youcanaddasweetenerofyour

choicebeforefermentingorforasecondaryfermentwhenyoubottleit.Coconutsugarisone

obviouschoice;plaincanesugar,panela,andmaplesyrupwouldalsoworkwell.

CHAPTERTEN

BEERS,GRAINS,ANDROOTSKHADI(SOUTHAFRICANBEER)

BREADKVASS

REJUVELAC

ROOT(S)BEER

GINGERBEER

Namingfermenteddrinksiscomplicated.Sometimes,

thesamesortofdrinkarisesindependentlyindifferent

partsoftheworld,leadingtomultiplenames.

Sometimes,adrinkgetsmultiplenamesinasingle

place.Kombuchaanditsmanynamesisagreat

exampleofthisphenomenon.Thesamethinghappens

withbeerandwinetoo.

BEERVS.WINEThenexttwochaptersareaboutbeersandwines.Thequestionofwhatisabeerandwhatisawinehighlightsthecomplexity,locality,andsometimesarbitrarinessoffermenteddrinknaming(andoffermentedfoodsingeneral,and,infact,ofallfoods!).Manypeoplebelievethatalcoholicfermentsofgrainsarebeers,andalcohol

fermentsoffruitsarewines.Butthisisaconventionratherthanarule.Andtherearemanydrinksthatdon’tfitthisdichotomy,containingneithergrainnorfruitasabase;therearealsoafewalcoholfermentsthatincludebothgrainandfruit.Whethertheseendupbeinggroupedwithbeersorhavingbeer-likenames(suchasale),beinggroupedwithwines,orhavingtheirowncategoriesaltogetherisamatterofhistory,accident,andsometimesofotherfactorssuchasalcoholcontent.Here’saproposalforhowtodistinguishbetweenbeersandwines:

1.Someliquidscontainmostoftheircarbohydratesassimplesugars—monosaccharidessuchasglucoseandfructose.Grapejuice,applejuice,

honey,andcactusjuiceareexamples.Yeastcanfermentsimplesugarsdirectly,sotheseliquids,full-strengthordilutedwithwater,canbefermentedstraightforwardlyandquicklywiththeadditionofsomeyeastoroftenjustbyrelyingonambientwildyeastand“spontaneous”fermentation.

2.Someliquidsalsocontaindisaccharides,orcomplexsugars,suchassucrose(tablesugar),lactose(milksugar),andmaltose.Yeastsproduceenzymesthatdigestthesecomplexsugarsintosimplesugars;thisclearsthepathforthesimplesugarstobefermentedintoalcohol,asabove.Thefirststep,breakingdownthecomplexsugarsintosimplesugars,takessomeextratime,butotherthanthat,therearenoadditionalmeasuresthatahumanneedstotaketofermenttheseliquids.Kombucha,milkkefir,and(sometimes)waterkefirfallintothiscategory,beingfermentsofsucroseandlactose,althoughsincetheseculturescontainbacteriainadditiontoyeast,mostofthealcoholthatdevelopsintheseisconvertedintoacid.Notethatjun,kombucha’slesser-knowncousin,startswithhoneyratherthansugar.Thatputsjuninthefirstcategorybecausehoneycontainsmostlysimplesugars.ThisexplainswhyJunfermentsquickerthankombucha—ithasonefewerstepinitsjourney.Similarly,waterkefirmadewithmonosaccharidessuchashoneyandfruitjuicewouldalsobeinthefirstcategory.Asanotherexample,honeymeadfermentsmorequicklythanmaplesyrupmead(acerglyn)becausehoneycontainsmainlymonosaccharidesandmaplesyrupcontainsalotmoredisaccharides.

3.Liquidsinathirdcategorycontainsubstantialamountsofcomplexcarbohydrates(starches).Typicalgrainferments(beers)startoffthisway,asastarchymashofgrains.Yeastisnotabletoactonthesestarchesdirectly,sosomeintermediateprocessingisnecessarytobreakthestarchesdownintosugars.Inthecaseofbeer,thebreakdownisaccomplishedthroughheat.Insomeothercases,theprocessishelpedalongbytheadditionofenzymesfromothersources.

Thisbreakdowncanbeaccomplishedinsurprisingways.Forexample,sometimeshumansalivaplaysarole:Salivacontainsexactlytherightenzymesforbreakingdownstarchintosugar.Youcanconfirmthisbychewingonacrackerforawhile;itwillstarttotastesweet.Sometraditionalbeersarestartedinjustthisway,byhavingpeoplechewonstarchyplantmaterialandthenspititintoavesselofsomesort,wherethestarchcontinuestobreakdown.Inthisbook,wedonotincludeanyrecipesemployinghumansaliva,butifyouareinclinedtogodownthisroad,westronglyrecommendthatanysaliva-catalyzed

breakdownbefollowedbyagoodlongboil,forsanitarypurposes!Andyouwouldnotbebetrayingtraditionbyboilingyourwort;manypreparationsincludeaboilstep.Weproposethatprocessesfollowingpattern1,involvingmostlysimple

sugars,becalledthewinefamily,andthatprocessesfollowingpattern3,involvingapreliminarybreakdownofstarches,bethebeerfamily.Pattern2fallsrightinthemiddle.Anotherobservationisthatingeneral,drinksfollowingpattern1tendtobe

theleastyeastyinflavor,anddrinksfollowingpattern3tendtobethemostyeastyinflavor.Inpractice,thesecategoriesmaynotmattermuchbecausenamesand

categoriesforimportantdrinkshavealreadybeenestablished.Butifyouinventanewdrink,thesecategoriesmighthelpyoudecidewhattocallit.

BEERBeersaregenerallygrainferments—mostoftenfermentsoftruegrainssuchasbarleyandwheatandcornandtheirrelatives,butalsosometimesfermentsofpseudograinssuchasbuckwheat,amaranth,andquinoa.Occasionally,beerscanalsobefermentsofotherstarchymaterialssuchascassavaroot.Grainbeerscanbedividedveryroughlyintothreecategories:

■Lagersarefermentedatcoolertemperatures(around50°F,or10°C);specificyeastsadaptedtothesetemperaturesareaddedbythebrewer.

■Alesarefermentedatroomtemperature,giveortake;thebreweraddsyeaststhatdowellinthattemperaturerange.Alesalsogenerallycontainmorehopsthanlagers.Hopsaddsbitternessandservesasapreservative.

■Finally,wildbeersarebrewedatvarioustemperatures,oftenaroundroomtemperature,usingatleastpartlywildyeast—thismeansthatthebrewinghappensinopencontainersforsomeperiodoftime,andwhateveryeasthappentobefloatingaroundintheairfindtheirwayintothesoup,alongwithsomebacteria,andhelpwiththefermenting.Thesebeersoftenhavesomesourflavorstothem,thankstotheparticularmicrobes.Regionalvariationsinmicrobescanleadtoregionalvariationsinwildbeers;Belgiumiswellknownforitswildyeastgrainbeers,whichsometimesalsohavefruitaddedtothem.Yeastsandbacteriacantakeresidenceinthewallsofbuildings,sobeersbrewedinparticularbrewerybuildingsovertheyearsoftenhavesignificantconsistencyfrombatchtobatch,despitebeingwild.

Wildbeershavefallenoutoffavoroverthelastseveralcenturies,forafewreasons.Recently,yeasthasbeenselectivelybred,allowinghumanstochoosethecharacteristicsoftheyeastthatfermentstheirbeer.Also,beer-makinghasmovedfrombeingasmall-scaleactivitytobeingamajorindustry(morethan100billiondollarsintheUnitedStatesalonein2015).Consistencyandpredictabilityarekeytoindustrialproductionofanything.Usingcarefullychosenyeastsmakesthingssignificantlymorepredictablethantheywouldbeusingwildyeasts.Somebeerscontainaddedfruit,eitherintheformofwholefruitorfruitjuice

orsyrup.Often,thefruitisaddedaspartofasecondaryfermentation(seehere).Andinmanycommoncases,aswithfruitlambics,thepredominantcharacterisstillthatofbeer.Sothere’slittledisagreementthatthesearebeers,despitethefactthattheycontainfruitandfruitsugars.InEnglish-speakingcountries,somestrongalesareknownasbarleywines,or

barleywines.(Interestingly,thisnamingexistedinAncientGreeceaswell.)Sometimes,drinknaminglikethisissimplyamatteroftradition.Inothercases,itmayhavesomethingtodowithalcoholcontentandgovernmentregulations.Strongalescanhaveanalcoholcontentmoretypicalofwine(10%)thanofbeer(5%)andareoftentaxedmoreheavilythannormalbeers;theyareoftenconsumedinwineglasses,inwine-likequantities.Callingthemwinesmakessomesortofsensebythosemeasures.Therearealsoalcoholicfermenteddrinksthataremadefromneithergrains

norfruit.Nearlyanyliquidcontainingsugarcanbefermented.SometraditionalAmericanandEuropeandrinkswithnamessuchasbeerand

alehavebeenfermentedregularlyforcenturies,sometimesfortonicortherapeuticpurposes.Someofthesehavenamesthatwemayhaveheard,includinggingeraleandrootbeer.Themodernversionsmaynotcontainanygingerorrootsatallandmaynotbefermented;bubblescanbeaddedtodrinksquicklybyinjectingcarbondioxidegasintothem.Tartnesscanbeaddedintheformofphosphoricacid,whichhasbeenimplicatedinosteoporosisandheartdisease.Therearealsotraditionaldrinksfromotherculturesthatareoftengrouped

withbeers,includingpulqueandcassavabeer.Thebeerassociationmaybeduetotheiryeastyflavorandtheirrelativelylowalcohol,oritmaysimplybebecauseEnglishdoesnothavecategoriesforeveryferment.Inthisbook,wedonotproviderecipesfortypicalbarley-and-hopsbeers.This

processinvolvesmanystepsandcaninvolveenoughequipmentthatitisnot

ideallysuitedtoacasualexperimenterinatypicalhomekitchen.Instead,weproviderecipesforafewtraditionalbeersthatareeasiertomakeathome.

KHADI(SOUTHAFRICANBEER)RECIPEBYHENDRIKJOHANNESJACOBUSHUGH

WhileRaquelwasonasafariattheKalahariDesertinSouthAfrica,thehousechef,HendrikJohannes

JacobusHugh,showedherthisrecipe.Ittastesjusthowyouimagineapineapplebeermighttaste.

Andwhileyou’repreparingyourkhadi,savethepineapplepeels.YoucanusethemtomakeTepache,

pineapplewine!(Seehere.)

YIELD:16SERVINGS(7OUNCES,OR200ML,EACH)11/2cups(90g)wheatbran

4quarts(4L)lukewarmfilteredwater,plusenoughtocoverthewheatbran

3cups(600g)granulatedsugar

1/3cup(25g)driedgroundginger

11/2teaspoons(5g)activedryyeast

1/2ofafreshlycut,peeledpineapple,chopped

Soakthewheatbranforatleast1hourinenoughlukewarmwatertocoveritandthendrain.

Pour4quarts(4L)ofwarmwaterintoalargeceramicorglasspot,addthesugar,andstiruntildissolved.Addtheginger,yeast,pineapple,andwheatbranandstir.Coverwithacleanclothorkitchentowelandsecureitwithalargerubberband.Writethebrewingdateonapieceofmaskingtapeandstickittotheoutsideofpot.

Letitsitatroomtemperaturefor2to3days,dependingonthetemperature.Onceitisbubblyandsmellslikebeer,strainandserveitorrefrigerateit,covered.

BREADKVASSKvassisafizzydrinksimilartobeerbutgenerallysweeterandwithamuchloweralcoholcontent.ItoriginatedinEasternEurope,andbesidesbeingagoodprobiotic,italsohasnutritionalproperties,suchasBvitaminsandmanganese.Itisknownasahangovercure!

YIELD:20SERVINGS(7OUNCES,OR200ML,EACH)

5slicesor8ounces(250g)ryebread(seenote)

5quarts(5L)filteredwater

1/4cup(35g)raisins

2cups(400g)granulatedsugar

1tablespoon(15g)sourdoughstarter(seesidebar)

Toastthebread.Bringthewatertoaboilinalargepotoverhighheat.Removefromtheheat.

Addthetoastedbreadslicesandraisins.Coverthepotwithalidandletitsitovernightatroomtemperatureorforatleast8hours.

Strainoutthebreadandraisinsanddiscardthem,retainingtheliquid.Stirthesugarintotheliquiduntildissolved.Stirinthesourdoughstarteruntil

wellcombined.Coverwithacleankitchentowelandleaveinawarmplace—anovenwith

thelightonworkswell.Letitsitfor24hoursoruntilfoamformsontopofthebrew.Oncethereiswhitefoam,strain,bottle,cap,andrefrigerate.After2daysinthefridge,itisreadytodrink.

CHOOSINGTHEBESTRYEBREAD.Ifbuyingryebreadinsteadofmakingityourself,takeacloselookatingredientslist.Ingredientslistsformostcommercialryebreadsstartwithenrichedflourandcontainlessthan2%rye.Trytoavoidthesebrands,whichoftenalsoincludeenrichedflourandpreservatives,andlookformorenaturalryebreadscontainingahigherpercentageofrye.

SOURDOUGHSTARTER

Sourdoughstarterisusedtomakebreadusingwildyeasts,thuseliminatingtheneedtobuyandusecommercialyeast.Useunbleachedwhiteflouroracombinationofunbleachedwhiteflourwithuptohalfwholewheatorryeflour.

YIELD:ABOUT2CUPS(500G)

STARTERINGREDIENTS

4ounces(125g)flour

4ounces(125ml)filteredwater

FEEDINGINGREDIENTS

12ounces(375g)flour

12ounces(375ml)filteredwater

DAY1

Place4ounces(125g)offlourand4ounces(125ml)ofwaterinaquart(liter)jar.Mixthoroughlyandclosethelid.

DAY2

Stironceortwice.Transfertoacleanjar.Closethelid.

DAY3

Takeout2tablespoons(30g)ofthemixtureanddiscarditoruseittomakesourdoughpancakes.(There’sanicerecipeinSandorKatz’sWildFermentation.)Add2ounces(60g)offlourand2ounces(60ml)offilteredwater.Stiruntilblended.Transfertoacleanjarandclosethelid.

DAYS4TO8

Repeattheprocedureforday3untilthestarterbecomesquitebubbly.Thismeansit’sready.Whenyouwanttousethestarter,putapieceoftapeonthesideofthejartomarkhowfull

thejaris.Takeasmuchofthestarterfromthejarasyourrecipecallsfor.Thenaddflourandwaterbackintothejarinequalamounts(byweight)tobringitbacktoapproximatelythetapemarkonthejar.

Ifyouarenotgoingtousethestarterforawhile,itcanbestoredintherefrigerator.Feediteveryweekorsobyremovinganddiscardingafewtablespoons(125g)ofthestarterandthenstirringinflourandwaterasabove,tomaintainapproximatelytheoriginalvolume.

REJUVELACRejuvelacisadrinkmadefromfermented,sproutedgrains.Wheatberriesaretypical,butother

wholegrainssuchasryeandpseudograinssuchasquinoaandbuckwheataresometimesused.It

tastesabittart,maybelikecitrus,anditmighthaveaslightyeastyorbarnyardfunktoit.Keepan

openmind,andyoumaywinduplovingit!

Rejuvelacispopularinrawandvegancircles.SomeclaimthatitprovidesvitaminsB12andK2,which

areotherwisehardtofindinavegandiet;othersquestionthisclaim.Regardless,rejuvelacisagood

sourceofvitamins,enzymes,andmicrobes.Andrejuvelaccanalsoserveasastarterforfermented

nutbutters,nutcheeses,andotherfoodprojects.

Useacleankitchentowelorsproutingtopduringthesoakingphase.Asproutingtopisafinemesh

lid,eitherplasticormetal.Thismakesthesoak-rinse-drainroutinequicker,andtidierthanwith

cloth.

YIELD:4SERVINGS(7OUNCES,OR200ML,EACH)

1cup(250ml)rawwheatberriesorotherraw,nonirradiatedwholegrain

Filteredwater

Placethegrainsinahalfgallon(2L)Masonjar.Pourfilteredwaterintothejaruntilthegrainsaresubmerged.Coverthejarwithacleankitchentowel,cheesecloth,orsproutingtopandsecureitwitharubberbandorMasonjarring.Letsoak8to10hours,perhapsovernight,butnotmuchlonger.Drainthroughtheclothorsproutingtop,rinse,anddrainagain.

Arrangethejaranditscoverinsuchawaythatsomeaircirculatesoverthegrainsandsothatliquidwilldrainasmuchaspossible.SallyFallonsuggestslayingthebottledownsidewaysatananglebyproppingupthebottomendofthejarhigherthanthetopend,sothattheliquidcandrainoutthetop.Twotofourtimesaday,rinsethegrains,drainthem,andthenleavethejaronitsside.

After2or3days(orsometimessooner—itmaydependonlotsoffactors,includingthegrain,roomtemperature,etc.),you’llnoticelittlewhitetailsemergingfromthegrains.Thismeansthattheyaresprouting!Oncetheyhavesprouted,drainandrinsethem.

Transferthesproutedgrainstoacleanhalfgallon(2L)Masonjar,add4cups(1L)ofwater,coverwithacleancloth,kitchentowel,papertowel,orcoffeefilterandsecureitwitharubberbandorMasonjarring.

Leaveitatroomtemperaturefor2or3daysuntilthewaterbecomescloudy.Thecloudywaterisyourrejuvelac.Thelongeryoulettheliquidsitwiththegrains,thestrongerandmoresouritwillget.

Starttastingyourrejuvelacafterthesecondorthirdday,andwhenyoudecidethatit’sready,strainthesproutsout,movetheliquidintoasealedbottle,andrefrigeratetheliquid.Asyoubecomemoreexperiencedwithrejuvelac,experimentandseeifyoucanfindthelevelofsournessthatyoulikemost.

Forbestresults,drinkitwithinaweekorso.Youmaybeabletogetasecondroundofrejuvelacoutofthesamesprouted

grainsbyaddingwaterandlettingthejarsitagain.Thesecondroundmaynotbeasstrongasthefirst,and/oritmaytakelonger.

ROOT(S)BEERRoot(s)beerhasaverylowalcoholcontent.Whatwelikeaboutthisrecipeisthatyoucanincorporateanyediblerootyoucanforageorbuy,oryoucanintroducespecificrootsfortheirtherapeuticeffects.

YIELD:12SERVINGS(8OUNCES,OR250ML,EACH)

1/4cup(60g)choppedsassafrasrootbark,ifavailable;otherwise,increasetheamountoftheotherroots

1/4cup(60g)mixturechoppedrhizomesorrootssuchaslicorice,ginger,dandelion,orgalangal

1vanillabean,or2teaspoons(10ml)vanillaextract

1/2teaspoon(1g)wintergreenleaforspearmintleaf

1cinnamonstickoradashofcinnamonpowder

3quarts(3L)filteredwater

1cup(200g)granulatedsugar

2tablespoons(30ml)limejuice

1/2cup(125ml)GingerBugorWhey

Placethesassafrasrootbark,otherroots,vanillabean(ifusing),wintergreenleaf,andcinnamoninalargepot.Add3quarts(3L)filteredwaterandbringtoaboiloverhighheat.Reducetheheattoalowsimmerfor15to20minutes.Strainintoaheatproofbowl.Stirinthesugaruntildissolved.Addthevanillaextract(ifusing).

Letcooltobodytemperatureorbelow.(Rememberthattoohighatemperaturecanweakenorkillyourgingerbugorwhey!)Addthelimejuiceandgingerbug.Stirwell.

Pourintoflip-topGrolsch-stylebottlesorMasonjarswithlids.(Afunnelcanbeusefulforthis.)Caporcovertightly.Writethebrewingdateonapieceofmaskingtapeandstickittotheoutsideofeachbottleorjar.

Fermentationtimecanrangefromaweektoamonth.AswithGingerBeer,andespeciallythefirstfewtimesyoumakethisrecipe,itmaybeagoodideatoincludeaplasticbottleasacarbonationgauge.

Starttastingafteroneweek.Onceyouaresatisfiedwiththeflavorandcarbonation,transfertotherefrigeratorimmediately.Servechilled.

SASSAFRASCONTROVERSY

SassafrasisadeciduoustreenativetoeasternNorthAmerica.Itsleaves,stems,bark,androotshavebeenusedtraditionallybyNativeAmericansandbyEuropeanandAfricansettlersforcenturies.

Itisinfactquiteacontroversialplant!Astudyinthe1960sshowedthatinlargeamounts,isolatedcomponentsofsassafrasextract

cancausecancerinrats.Tobefair,thesamecanbesaidofalcohol(andmanyotherthingsthatweconsumeregularly)!Regardless,becauseofthisstudy,theU.S.FoodandDrugAdministration(FDA)restrictedtheuseofsassafrasrootextractsinprocessedfood.Also,sassafrasextract,inlargeamounts,canbeusedasaningredientwhensynthesizingpsychedelicdrugs.ThisundoubtedlyaddedtotheFDA’sconcern.

Inanycase,itisprobablywisestnottoconsumesassafrasdailyonanongoingbasis,orinlargequantities,andshoulditshouldprobablybeavoidedbywomenwhoarepregnantorlactating.Ifyouareindoubt,dosomeresearchforyourself,and/oraskyourdoctor.

Havingsaidthis,smallamountsofwholesassafrashavebeenusedtraditionallyforcenturies.Someofthereportedbeneficialusesofsassafrasteaandsassafrasrootbeerinclude,amongotherthings:asadetox,asananalgesic,asananti-inflammatoryandanti-rheumatic,forhelpwithpainfulmenstruation,forhelpwithurinarytractandprostatedisorders,forhelpwithskinailments,andforhelpwitheyeinfectionsandrespiratoryproblems.Sassafrasisalsousedtomakefilé,aseasoningusedinnativeandCreolerecipesincludinggumbo.

◁GINGERBEERGingerbeer,orgingerale,isarefreshingfizzydrinkwithakick.Itcontainsalmostnoalcoholand

doesnotrequirecommercialyeasttobrew.OnceyoumastermakingGingerBug,thisrecipeiseasy

andinexpensivetomake.Itdoesn’trequireanyspecializedequipment.Andit’sa“beer”forthewhole

familytoenjoy.

Thisrecipeisanotheroneforwhichyoumightwanttouseasmallplasticsodabottleamongthe

otherbottlesandjars.Bysqueezingtheplasticbottle,youcanassesshowmuchcarbonationhas

builtup.Whentheplasticbottlehasbecomehard,it’stimetoputallthebottlesintherefrigeratorto

curtailthefermentation.

YIELD:16SERVINGS(8OUNCES,OR250ML,EACH)

2to3inches(5to8cm)freshginger,peeledifnotorganic

4quarts(4L)filteredwater

11/2cups(400g)granulatedsugar

Juiceof2lemons,or2ounces(60ml)packagedlemonjuice

1to2tablespoons(15to30ml)bubblyGingerBug

Gratetheginger.Boil2quarts(2L)filteredwaterinapotoverhighheat.Stirthegratedgingerandsugarintotheboilingwateruntilthesugarisdissolved.Turnofftheheat.Coverandletsitfor15minutes.Strain.

Addtheremaining2quarts(2L)filteredwater.Theresultingmixtureshouldbebodytemperatureorbelow;ifit’sstillwarmerthanthat,letitsitforawhileuntilithascooled.(Toomuchheatwillkillthegingerbug!)

Onceithascooledsufficiently,stirinthelemonjuiceandgingerbug.Pourintoflip-topGrolsch-stylebottles,Masonjarswithlids,orothersturdy

vesselsofyourchoosing.(Afunnelcanbeusefulforthis.)Covertightly.Writethebrewingdateonapieceofmaskingtapeandstickittotheoutsideofthebottles.

Letitfermentatroomtemperaturefor10to15days.Tasteitfromtimetotime.Itshouldbebubblyandnottoosweet.Refrigerateitonceyoulikethetasteoronceitissufficientlycarbonated.Servechilled.

CHAPTERELEVEN

WINES,CIDERS,ANDFRUITS(ANDVINEGAR!)

APPLECIDER1,2,3

PERRY

BERRYWINE

COUNTRYWINE

PRISONWINE/HOOCH

MEAD

RICEWINE

SPARKLINGCOUNTRYWINE

Thefirstwineswerenecessarilysimpleandnatural.

Today,commercialwinemakersoftenuseadditivesthat

maketheirliveseasierandthatgiveusthebigflavors

andhighalcohollevelsthatwe’vebecomeaccustomed

to.Unfortunately,theseadditivescanmakeusfeelmiserablethenextday.Fortunately,youcan

prepareyourownsimplewinesathome.Likewithmanyhomefoodpreparationprojects,yougain

somecontrolovertheingredientsandhealtheffects,andyoualsosavemoney.

◁APPLECIDER1,2,3Ifyouhaveappletreesorknowsomebodywhodoes,youwilllovetheserecipes.Evenifyoumust

buyapplejuice,youwillstilllovethem.Fromoneingredient—applejuice—youcangetthree

differentdrinks:AppleCiderSodaforeveryone,HardAppleCiderforalcoholdrinkers,andApple

CiderVinegarfortherestoftheyear.

Ifyouwanttousestore-boughtapplejuice,makesureitdoesn’tcontainpreservatives;themain

purposeofpreservativesistoinhibitmicrobes,andmicrobesarekeytofermentation!Clearand

cloudyapplejuicebothwork,butgiveslightlydifferentresults,sotrywhicheveroneappealstoyou,

ortryboth.

Notethatthissamemethodworkswithotherjuicesaswell.Pearcideriscalledperry;grapecider

couldbecalled...wine!

YIELD:VARIABLE

Apples,preferablyorganic

OR

Freshly-pressedapplejuice,preferablyorganicandpreservative-freeOR

Preservative-free,store-boughtapplejuicefromthestore,plusafeworganicapplestojuiceyourself

APPLECIDERSODA

Ifstartingwithapples,juiceorblendthem;strainusingmeshorcheesecloth.Discardorcompostthepulp.

Pourtheapplejuiceintoaceramicorglassvesselorvessels.Filleachnomorethantwo-thirdsfull.Aeratebyeitherstirringwithaspoonorclosingwithanairtightlidandshaking.Removethelidandcoverthevesselwithacleancloth,kitchentowel,papertowel,orcoffeefilter,securedwitharubberband.Writethedateonapieceofmaskingtapeandstickittotheoutsideofthejar.

Letitsitatroomtemperature.Atsomepointwithinseveraldays,therewillbealotofbubbling.Ambient

temperaturehasabigeffectonhowsoonthishappens.Untilthebubblinghasstarted,stirvigorouslyorshakethreetimesadayandthencoverasbefore.Aeratingthejuicelikethishelpswildyeastfindit,anditpreventsmoldfromtakingholdonthesurface.

Oncethebubblinghaspeakedandstartedtoslowdown,bottlethesodainBPA-freeplasticcontainersorinsuitableglasscontainers,coverorcaptightly,andrefrigerate.Plasticbottlesmaybesaferbecausetheyhandlepressureinamorepredictableandmeasurableway.(Seehereforalongerdiscussionofbottlingstrategies.)Whenbottling,youmayretainthesedimentordiscarditasdesired.Ifyouwanttokeepasmuchaspossibleofthesediment,stirthecidergentlybeforebottlingtodistributeitevenly.Don’tstirtoohard,though,oryouwilllosealotofthebubbles.Toremovethesediment,filtertheliquidthroughafinemeshstrainerorcheeseclothduringbottling;alternatively,allowthesedimenttosettletothebottomandthenpourofftheliquid,orsiphonitoffthetopwhenreadytodrink,oruseanyothermethodthatseemsconvenient.(Siphoninghastheadvantageofdisruptingthecidertheleast,thusretainingthemostbubbles.)Dobeawarethatthesedimentcontainsyeast,whichcontainsBvitaminsandsomeprotein,soformaximumhealthbenefit,retainthesedimentinthedrinkorperhapsfindsomeotherwaytoconsumeit,suchasinsaladdressing.

DonotshakeAppleCiderSodapriortoopeningthecontainer.Ifyoudo,youwilllosealotofyoursodawhenyouopenthebottle!

HARDAPPLECIDER

FollowthestepsformakingAppleCiderSodauntilitstartsbubbling.Ifyouhaveacontainerwithanairlock,transferthesodatothiscontainerassoonasitstartsbubbling.Ifyoudon’thaveacontainerwithanairlock,waituntilthebubblinghasmostlydieddownandthenputthecideritinasealedcontainerandrelievepressuremanuallyeveryfewdaysbyopeningthecapabitandthenclosingittight.

Letthebottlesitatroomtemperature,closed,forupto1month.Removethesedimentasinstructedabove,ifdesired.Bottleandrefrigerate.

APPLECIDERVINEGAR

Youcanmakeapplecidervinegar(oranykindoffruitvinegar,includinggrapevinegar)byleavingAppleCiderSoda,HardAppleCider,oranyfruitwineexposedtoairatroomtemperatureforalongtime.

FollowallthestepsformakingAppleCiderSodaandjustletitkeepfermenting,coveredwithacleancloth,kitchentowel,papertowel,orcoffeefilterandsealedwitharubberband,atroomtemperature(ratherthanbottlingafterthebubblingslowsdown).Continuestirringeveryday(topreventmoldfromformingontop)andtastingitoccasionally.Onceithassouredandthe

bubblinghasceased(afteraweekormuchlonger),youmayoptionallyaddasmuchas1/4cup(60ml)ofexistingrawapplecidervinegarperquart(liter)tospeeduptherestoftheprocess.Besuretoleaveyourliquidfarfromanyotheropenfermentingculturetopreventcross-contamination.Youcanletitfermentforuptoayearatroomtemperature.Tasteitfromtimetotime.Itisdonewhenthereisnolongeranytraceofsweetness.

Onceit’sdone,applecidervinegarisbestbottledincappedglasscontainers;glassisidealforlong-termstorageofacidicliquids,andcarbondioxidepressurebuildupisnotaconcernwithvinegar,sinceallthesugarisgoneandthere’sverylittlechemicalreactionstillhappening.

Notethatvinegaryoumakethiswaywillnotnecessarilybeasstrongasvinegarthatyoubuyatthestore,whichisadjustedtoastandardizedstrength.Thismeansthatinrecipesthatrelyonspecificaciditylevelsforreasonsofchemistryorfoodsafety(suchascanning),store-boughtvinegarisbest.

JOHNNYAPPLESEED'SAPPLES

JohnnyAppleseed(bornJohnChapman,1774,inLeominster,MA)wasanAmericanfrontierfolkhero,famousforplantinggreatnumbersofappletreesandpreachingthegospel.Aninterestingthingaboutapplesisthattheydonotbreedtrue;forreasonsthatcanbeexplainedbytheoriesofgenetics,theseedsfromthemostwonderful-tastingapplearelikelytodevelopintotreeswithverydifferent,lessdelightful,and,infact,quitesourapples.Thewaytogetpredictableapplesistoclonetrees,andthebestwaytodothatistograftbranchesfromonetreeontoanother.

ButthisisnotwhatJohnnyAppleseedwasdoing.Hewasplantingseeds,whichwouldlikelyresultinsourapples.Andthemostlikelyuseforcommonsourappleswouldbe...formakingcider!

◁PERRYOnceyouhavemasteredAppleCider,Perrywillbeeasybecauseit’smadethesameway.Infact,the

samemethodcanbeappliedtoquincejuiceandmanyotherjuices.Pearsodaandperrystartoff

tastingdecidedlypear-like;thelongerperryferments,thesubtlerthepearflavorwillbecome.

FollowtherecipeforAppleCider.Substitutepearsfortheapples,andifyouwantto,addsome

spices,suchascinnamon,allspice,nutmeg,orcloves,inmoderation.

Notethatsomeofthetimingmightbealittledifferent.Movefromsteptostepbasedonwhatyou

seeandtaste,ratherthanbasingitonanystricttimetable.

BERRYWINEAswe’veseenbynow,therearemanywaystomakefruitwine.Thismethodgivesthewildyeasta

dayortwoandthenaddsinsomepackagedyeast.Itshouldresultinanice,cleanberrywine,with

little“funk.”

YIELD:8TO10SERVINGS

4pounds(2kg)frozenripeberries

4quarts(4L)filteredwater

2pounds(1kg)granulatedsugar

1package(0.2ounces,or5g)wineyeast

Thawtheberriesandmashthemupinacrockorotherlargevessel.Boil2quarts(2L)ofwaterinastockpot.Addthesugarandstiruntil

dissolved.Addtheremaining2quarts(2L)ofwaterandcontinuetostir.Onceitreacheswarmroomtemperature,addthewatertotheberriesinalarge(atleast2gallons[8L])crockorglassjar.Coverwithacleanclothorkitchentowelandsecureitwitharubberband.Writethedateonapieceofmaskingtapeandstickittotheoutsideofthevessel.

Letitsitatroomtemperature.After24to48hours,addtheyeastandstirtwicedailyfor1week,keepingit

coveredwithcleanclothwhennotstirring.Straintheliquidandpourintooneormorecleancarboysorjugs.Capwith

airlocks.Writethedateonapieceofmaskingtapeandstickittotheoutsideofthejug(s).Letitsitatroomtemperatureforatleast1month.

Afteramonthormore,therewillbesedimentandyeastatthebottomofthejugs.Decantorsiphonthewineintonewcleanbottles.Winebottlesorotherflip-topbottlesworkwell.Capthebottlesandletthemsitatroomtemperatureforatleast3months.

◁COUNTRYWINECountrywineisageneraltermforwinemadefromfruit,generallyanykindoffruitexceptforgrapes.Ifyoufindyourselfwithanoverabundanceoffruitandwanttomakeafundrinkforyourself,yourfamily,andyourguests,thismightbejustthething.

YIELD:6TO8SERVINGS(8OUNCES,OR250ML,EACH)

2quarts(2L)filteredwater

2cups(400g)granulatedsugar

2cups(450g)finelychopped,unpeeledseasonalfruitBoilthewaterinlargepotoverhighheat.Stirinthesugaruntildissolved.Turnofftheheat.Letcooltobodytemperatureorbelow.Transfertoalargecrockorglassjar.Addthefruit.

Coverwithacleancloth,kitchentowel,papertowel,orcoffeefilterandsecureitwitharubberband.Writethedateonapieceofmaskingtapeandstickittotheoutsideofthevessel.Letitsitatroomtemperature.Uncoverandstirvigorously3timesadayevery

day.Cover.Bubblingactionshouldstartwithin24to72hours.Eachtimeyoustir,more

bubblesshouldappear.Onday5orlater(dependingonthetemperature),whenthebubblingactionslows,strainoutthefruitandtransfertheliquidintoacleanglassjug.Closewithanairlock.Leaveforseveralweeksuntilthebubblinghasdieddowncompletely.Decantorsiphonofftheliquid,leavingbehindasmuchofthesedimentaspossible.(Experimentwitheatingthesedimentifyouwish.)Youcandrinkthewineimmediately;otherwise,bottleitinwinebottles,flip-topGrolsch-stylebottles,cleankombuchabottles,orMasonjarsandrefrigerate.

◁PRISONWINE/HOOCHPrisonwineistheembodimentoftheproverb,“Necessityisthemotherofinvention.”Ifyouare

bored,desperate,and/orcleverenough,youcanfigureouthowtomakewinefromavailable

materials.Ifyoucangetyourhandsonfruitjuice,fruit,packetsofsugar,water,bowls,andbags,you

canmakewine.

YIELD:3SERVINGS(8OUNCES,OR250ML,EACH)

1cup(225g)chopped,ripefruit

3cups(750ml)fruitjuice

1/4cup(50g)granulatedsugarThefirststepistoprefermentthefruit:Placeitinabowl,coverthebowlwithacleanclothorkitchentowel,andsecureitwitharubberbandtodissuadefruitflies.Leavethebowloffruitatroomtemperaturefor24to48hours.Thefruitshouldbegintosmellveryripe,givingoffanalmostalcoholicaroma.

Oncefruitispre-fermented,pourthefruitjuiceinalargemixingbowl.Addthesugarandstirtodissolve.Addthefruit.

Writethedateontheoutsideofacleanzip-topbag.Pourthecontentsofthejar(fruitandjuice)intothebagandcloseit.

Letitsitatroomtemperature.Openeverydayforthefirst5daysandreleasethegas.Closeandgiveitagentlesqueezetomixitup.Continuetofermentfor1to2weeks,tastingeveryfewdays.Afteracoupleofweeks,youwillbegintotastethealcohol.Ifthebaginflatestoomuch,openitagainandletthegasout.Onceitreachesdesiredtaste,strainanddrinkthewine.Bottleandrefrigerateanyleftoverwine.

◁MEADMeadiscertainlyamongtheoldestalcoholicbeverages,datingbacktoaround9000BCEbysome

estimates.Itisalsooneoftheeasiesttobrew.Thisrecipeisforawildmead,meaningthatthereis

noaddedyeast.

Oneparthoneytofourpartswater,byweight,isagoodstartingpoint.Onceyou’vemadeitafew

times,tryvaryingtheratioifyoulike.Abitmorehoneywillresultinastrongerand/orsweetermead.

Ifyouaddspices,herbs,androots,thenyourmeadbecomesavariationknownasmetheglin,which

hasthesamerootasmedicine.Meadsenhancedwithmedicinalplantshavebeenusedasmedicines

foralongtime.

YIELD:1GALLON(4L)

2pounds(1kg)rawhoney

4quarts(4L)filteredwater

Finelychoppedherbs,spices,fruitpeels,driededibleflowers,orotherflavoringsofyourchoice,suchasbayleaves,rosemary,ginger,citruspeels,turmeric,etc.(optional)Dissolvethehoneyinthewater.Pourintoalargeceramicorwidemouthglassvessel.Addtheherbs(ifusing)andstir.Coverthevesselwithacleanclothorkitchentowelandsecureitwitharubberband.Writethedateonapieceofmaskingtapeontheoutsideofthejar.

Letitsitatroomtemperature.Stirvigorously3timesaday.Therewillbebubblingactionduringthefirstweek.Oncethebubblingaction

beginstodiedown,strainandtransfertoajugorjugsandclosewithanairlock.Leavefor2to4weeks,dependingontemperature,ormuchlonger.Forayoungmead,drinkitwhentherearenomorebubbles.Thelongeryouwaitafterthat,themorealcoholitwillcontainandthelesssweetitwillbe.Ifyoufermentitlongenough,thehoneyflavorwillrecedeintothebackground,anditwillstarttotastealmostlikedrywhitewine.

Tostore,syphontheliquidandpouritintocleanbottlesorjars.Storethebottlesorjarsinacoolplaceforweeksormonths.

VARIATION:ACERGLYN

Acerglynislikemead,butismadefrommaplesyrupinsteadofhoneyorinadditiontohoney.Theprocessisthesame.Andmaplesyrupcontainsapproximatelythesameamountofsweetnessashoneybyweight,socomparableratioswillgivesimilarresults.Acerglynmaytake

longerthanhoneymeadbecausemaplesyrupcontainsmoredisaccharidesthatneedtobecleavedbeforetheycanbefermented(seediscussionshownhere).

◁RICEWINEVariationsonstickyriceandricewinehavebeenpopularinEastAsiaforalongtime.Thisrecipe

emphasizesthewine,butthericeispartofthefun,too.Theleftoversweetricecanbeeatenfor

dessert,butitisalsopopularforbreakfast,perhapswithaboiledegg.Thisseemslikeanicewayto

easeintotheday!

YIELD:VARIES

6cups(1.5L)filteredwater,divided

2cups(500g)uncookedstickyriceorglutinousrice

1ShanghaiyeastballorricewineyeastballWarm3cups(750ml)ofwaterinapotoverlowheattobodytemperature.Removefromtheheat,addthericetothepot,cover,andsoakforonehourormore.Rinseanddrain.

Boiltheremaining3cups(750ml)waterinapot.Addtherice,lowerheattoasimmer,cover,andcook15to20minutesuntilallthewaterisabsorbed.

Spreadoutthecookedstickyriceinalargebowltocooltoroomtemperature.Pulverizetheyeastballwithyourhandsandspreadovertherice.Coverthebowlwithplasticwrapandtakewhatevermeasuresyoucanto

keepthebowlataround73°F(23°C).Ifitiswarmerorcolder,itwillstillferment,butthisisthebesttemperature.Tocontrolthetemperature,wrapthebowlinalargetowelandputitinabigcoolerorsomeotherenclosedspace(likeyouroven,ifyouaren’tusingit!).After4to5days,itshouldbefullofliquid.Ifnot,letitsitforafewmoredays.

Thatliquidisthericewine.Oncethereisagoodamountofit,pouritintoaMasonjar.Spoonthericeintoacheeseclothandsqueezeitthroughastrainertogetmoreoftheliquid,whichcanbeaddedintothesamejar.

Closethejarwithalidandrefrigerateit.Servechilled.Savethestickyriceintherefrigeratorandeatitasadessertorasazingy

breakfastporridge.

◁SPARKLINGCOUNTRYWINEUsingasecondaryfermentation,wetransformcountrywineintocountrychampagne!

YIELD:ALITTLEMORETHAN2QUARTS(2L)

SYRUP

1cup(250ml)filteredwater

1/2cup(100g)granulatedsugarWINE

1cup(250ml)syrup

2quarts(2L)CountryWine,BerryWine,orHooch

SYRUP

Heatthewateroverlowheatinasmallsaucepan.Stirinthesugaruntildissolved.Removefromtheheatandletcooltobodytemperatureorbelow.

WINE

Mixthesyrupandthewine.Pourthesweetenedwineintoflip-topGrolsch-styleorbeerbottlesandcap.Storeatroomtemperature(65°Fto70°F[18°Cto21°C])for5to10days.After5days,openonebottle,observethelevelofcarbonation,andtasteit.Ifitisnotbubbly,closethebottle,leaveitforanotherfewdays,andtryagainthen.Repeatuntilit’ssparklingandbubby,atwhichpointitisreadytodrinkorrefrigerate.Whenopening,becarefulnottoshakevigorously,asitcanmakeamess!

CHAPTERTWELVE

MEXICANPRE-HISPANICDRINKSPULQUE

COLONCHE

TEPACHE

TEJUINO

Asdidmanycultures,pre-Hispanicpeoplespreserved

theirfoodviafermentation,oftenviafermenteddrinks.

That’showtheysavedcorn,fruit,andotheragricultural

products,givingthemrichflavorsandincreased

nutritionalvaluealongtheway.

Aswithmanyancestraltraditions,theprocessesfor

preparingfermenteddrinksaresimple,inexpensive,and

safe,inhibitingthegrowthofpathogenicbacteria.

ItissadtoseethesebeveragesbecomescarcerinMexicoandtherestoftheworldaspeopleturntomass-producedsugarysodas.Youcanmaketheseforyourselfathomeinsteadofbuyingfactory-producedsodas.SomeofthemostpopularMexicanpre-Hispanicfermenteddrinksarepulque

(madefromaguamiel,thesapofthemaguey),tepache(madefrompineappleandpiloncillosugar),tejuino(fromnixtamalorcornmasa),andcolonche(madefrompricklypear).

HISTORYOFPULQUEBeforebeer,therewaspulque.Inpre-Hispanictimes,pulquewasthedrinkoftheGods.Itwasconsumedby

priestsandmembersoftheroyalfamilyduringtheirrituals.Oldmenandwomen,retiredfromactivelife,werealsoallowedtodrinkandenjoyit.Andprisonerscouldinebriatethemselveswithitbeforebeingputtodeath.Drinkingpulquewasgenerallyforbiddenforanybodyelse,andbeingdrunk

wasapunishableoffense.Repeatoffenderswerecondemnedtodie—beaten,

stoned,orhanged.Onlyonspecialoccasions,suchasthefestivitiesfortheGodsofWine,wereallthecitizens,includingchildren,allowedtodrinkpulqueuntildrunk.AftertheSpanishconquest,punishmentsfordrinkingpulqueended,so

indigenouspeoplecontinuedtodrinkit,notonlytogetdrunk,butasadietarysupplement.Sometimes,pulquewastheonlydrinkavailable,andbeingafermenteddrink,itcontainedhealthfulvitaminsandenzymes.Becauseitwasunfiltered,itcontainedsomeamountsofproteintoo,fromtheyeast.Duringthistime,pulquecommerceincreaseduntilitbecameaprofitablelocal

business.ButaftertheMexicanRevolution,pulquefaceditsnemesis:beer,whichwaseasierandcheapertomanufacture,hencemoreprofitable.Barleyandwheatdisplacedmaguey.Tosupportthebeerbrewingindustry,theMexicangovernmentimposednewregulationsdiscouragingpulquecommerceandevenpropagatedarumorthatpulquewasmadeusingfecesasastarter.Atoughcompetitor,negativepropaganda,andthedifficultyoftransportand

distributionalmostledtothedemiseofpulque.Thenumberofpulquerías(pulquebars)inMexicodecreasedfromoverathousandatthebeginningofthetwentiethcenturytomaybeonlyahundredatthebeginningofthiscentury.

WHERETOGETFRESHPULQUEDistributingpulqueatscaleisquitedifficult,asitcontinuestofermentevenafterbottling.Therehavebeenseveralcommercialattempts,buttheyhavefailed—pulquecanshaveexplodedinsupermarketaisles!Upuntilnow,theeasiestwaytoenjoypulquehasbeentotakeitfreshoutofthefermentationbucketinapulquería.PulqueríasarenowmakingacomebackinMexico.Andgiventheappetiteof

NorthAmericansfornewfoodsanddrinks,andthespeedwithwhichtrendsspreadnowadays,itisonlyamatteroftimebeforepulquemakesitswayintothebarculturenorthoftheborder.Thebiggestbarriersarethedifficultyoftransportingpulque,asmentionedabove,andthelengthoftimeittakesforthemagueyplanttomature.

PULQUETERMINOLOGY

•Tlachiquero:Thisissomeonewhotakescareofthemagueyplant.

•Aguamiel:Thisisthesapofthemagueyplant.

•Acocote:Thisistheinstrumentusedtocollectaguamiel.

HOWPULQUEISMADE

Theprocessofmakingpulquebeginswiththemagueyplant,whichtakes12to15yearstofullydevelop.Justwhenthecactusisabouttoflower,thetlachiquerocutstheflowerstem.

(Don’tfeelbadforthemaguey—itcanonlyliveforalimitedtimeafteritstartstoflower,whetherornotitsflowerstemiscut.)Severalmonthsaftertheflowerstemiscut,thetlachiquerowillscrapethebaseofthemaguey,andastheplanttriestohealitself,itwillproduceaguamiel.Thetlachiquerousestheacocotetoextracttheaguamielandpouritintoatub.Afterextraction,thetlachiquerowillagainscrapethesurfacewithaknifefor

anewbatchofaguamiel.Iftheplantisleftwithnowound,thentherewillbenoaguamiel,asthemagueyhealsitselfbyproducingthesap.Eachmagueyplantcanproduceseveralbatchesofaguamielperday,everydayforuptoayear,beforetheplantdies.Thefreshlycollectedsapgoesstraightintoabigbucketofpreviously-

fermentedaguamielcalledtheseedorpulquemother.Fermentationstartsimmediately.Asaguamielisbeingpouredintothebucket,itisaerated.Durationforfermentationdependsontheproducer.Itcanbehoursordays.

MAKINGYOUROWNPULQUEYes,youcanturnyourkitchenintoapulquería.Thealcoholcontentmaynotbeashighastraditionallyproducedpulque,butatleastyoucansamplethetaste.Forthebestpracticalapproximation,werecommendbuyingunheated,

unfiltered,concentratedmagueysapandmixingitwithwater,asdescribedbelow.Thebestsourcewe’vefoundistheVilladePatosbrand.

NOTEONAGAVENECTAR:Commercialagavenectaristypicallyheated,filtered,andgenerallyquiteprocessed.Itwillfermentjustlikeanysweetliquidwill,buttheresultswillnotbepulque.

PULQUEYIELD:3CUPS(750ML)

3cups(750ml)filteredwater

1cup(325g)unrefinedmagueysweetsap(notagavenectar)

PourthewaterintoaMasonjar.Addthemagueysapandstiruntildissolved.Coverthejarwithacleancloth,kitchentowel,papertowel,orcoffeefilterandsecureitwitharubberbandorMasonjarring.Writethebrewingdateonapieceofmaskingtapeandstickittotheoutsideofthejar.

Letitsitatroomtemperaturefor5daysupto3weeks,dependingonambienttemperature.

Youcanstarttastingatday3.Itshouldstarttastingsour.Onceyouliketheflavor,transfertobottles.PlasticBPA-freebottlesarehighlyrecommended.Rememberthatpulquecontinuestoferment!Closetightlyandrefrigerate.

VARIATION:PULQUEWITHMILKKEFIRGRAINS

Addingmilkkefirgrainscanhelpyourfermentationalong.DavidAsher,authorofTheArtofNaturalCheesemaking,didthiswithrawaguamieldemagueyduringavisittoMexico,andhepassedonhisrecipe:

Add1teaspoonofmilkkefirgrainspreviouslyrinsedinnonchlorinatedwaterto1cup(325g)ofaguamieldemagueyand3cups(750ml)ofwater,asabove.Closethelidandletitfermentfor24to72hours,dependingonthetemperature.Oncetheaguamielisfermented,itwillbethickerandtasteofpulque.

◁COLONCHEColoncheisapre-Hispanicdrinkmadebyfermentingthepulpoftheredpricklypearfruit.Thus,

coloncheisanothercactuswine.ThisversionisbyErnestoFato.

YIELD:8SERVINGS

41/2pounds(2kg)matureredpricklypears

1/4cup(60ml)lukewarmwater

2gramsdryyeast

1/4cup(50g)sugar

Peeleachpricklypearbycuttingofftheends,stickingaforkinit,slittingtheskinfromendtoend,andremovingit.Crushthefruitwithamortarandpestle,tryingtoavoidbreakingtheseeds.Breakingtheseedssoursthejuice.(Usingablenderisnotrecommendedforthisreason.)

Strainthejuiceintoamixingbowlusingaclothorstrainer.Inanotherbowl,stirtogetherthewarm(aroundbodytemperature)waterand

yeast.Stirinthesugaruntildissolved.Pourtheyeastmixtureintoaglassorceramiccontainer.Stirthepricklypearjuiceintotheyeastmixture.Coverwithacleancloth,kitchentowel,papertowel,orcoffeefilterandsecureitwitharubberband.Writethebrewingdateonapieceofmaskingtapeandstickittotheoutsideofthecontainer.

Letitsitatroomtemperaturefor3to5days,dependingonthetemperature.Tasteit.Thereshouldbeanalcoholicfruityflavor.Bottle,cap,andrefrigerate

itwhenit’sready.Servechilled.

◁TEPACHETepache,afermentedpineapplebeverage,isasignaturedrinkforMexicans.InsomepartsofMexico,

ifyouarelucky,youmaystillfindtepachevendorsinthestreets,butitspopularityhasbeen

decliningamongyoungergenerations.SoyoucanimagineRaquel’sjoyfulsurprisewhenshe

stumbledupona2014BonAppetitarticletitled“WhyYouShouldbeDrinkingTepacheCocktails!”As

anodtoherpre-Hispanicroots,sheishappytoshareherTepacherecipehere,foryournextcocktail.

YIELD:ABOUT4TO6SERVINGS,DEPENDINGONTHESIZEOFTHEPINEAPPLE

Outerpeelof1pineapple(eattherestofthepineappleorrefrigerateitforanotheruse)

Filteredwater

1cup(200g)panelaorbrownsugar

1cinnamonstick

3or4wholeclovesand/orstaranise

Placethepineapplepeelsinahalfgallonto1gallon(2to4L)Masonjarorceramiccontainer.Addfilteredwatertothevesseltocoverthepeels.

Dissolvethepanelainabout1cup(250ml)lukewarmwaterandpouritintothecontainer.Addthecinnamonandcloves.Stir.Coverwithacleancloth,kitchentowel,papertowel,orcoffeefilterandsecureitwitharubberband.Writethebrewingdateonapieceofmaskingtapeandstickittotheoutsideofthecontainer.

Letitsitatroomtemperaturefor3to5days.Trytastingonday3.Thewarmertheroom,thequickeritwillferment.When

itstartstastinglesssweetandmoretart,itisdone.Pourthetepachethroughastrainerintoajarorbottleswithairtightlids.Refrigerateandservecold.

PINEAPPLETIPS&TRICKS

•Iftepachefermentsfortoolongandstartstastingvinegary,letitcontinuetofermentforawhilemore,andyouwillhaveadeliciouspineapplevinegar!

•Ifyoueatpineapplewithanyfrequency,apineappleslicer/decorerwillmakeyourlifeeasier.

•Ifyouarecarefulwiththepineapplecorer,youmaybeabletostopturningbeforeyoucutthroughthebottom,creatingahollowpineapplesuitableforuseasamugforjuiceordrinks!Ofcourse,ifyouwanttofillitwithtepache,youwillneedtomakethetepacheaheadoftimeusingadifferentpineapple.

◁TEJUINOTejuinoisapre-HispanicfermentedcorndrinkstillpopularinthewesternstatesofMexico.Itissaid

thatTejuinocomesfromtheNahuatlwordtecuin,whichmeans“tobeat.”Drinkingtejuinocreatesjoy,

thusprovokingthehearttobeatfaster.

YIELD:ABOUT3QUARTS(3L)

FORTEJUINO

3quarts(3L)plus1cup(250ml)water

2pounds(1kg)piloncillo(alsocalledpanela)

2pounds(1kg)wetcornmasadough(masapreparada)

OR

3cups(350g)masaharina(drymasaflour)plus2cups(500ml)water

Juiceof2limes

FORSERVING

Ice

Seasalt

Limejuice

Bring3quarts(3L)ofwatertoaboilinpotoverhighheat.Stirinthepiloncillountildissolved.

Mixthemasaharinawith1cup(250ml)ofwaterusingyourhandsorafoodprocessorandaddittothepiloncillowater.Stirwell.Letitcooltoroomtemperature.Addthelimejuice.Pourintoaglassorceramicvessel.Coverwithacleancloth,kitchentowel,papertowel,orcoffeefilterandsecureitwitharubberband.Writethebrewingdateonapieceofmaskingtapeandstickittotheoutsideofthevessel.

Letitsitfor3daysatroomtemperature.Pourofftheliquidandsaveit;thatisyourtejuino!Chillandserveoverice,withabitofsaltandlimejuicemixedin.

HOWTOMAKEMASADOUGH

Tomakemasadoughfromdrymasaflour,combine3cups(350g)drymasaharinawith2cups(500ml)ofwater.Mixthoroughlyandletsitforatleast15minutes.

Masadoughanddrymasaflourareavailableinmanyvarieties.Forthisrecipe,ifyouhaveachoicebetweenmasafortortillasandmasafortamales,werecommendthemasafortortillas.Yellowandwhitemasaworkequallywell.

Wehighlyrecommendnon-GMOmasa.Unfortunately,intheUnitedStates,thebiggestbrandsareallGMO.MexicocurrentlybansgrowingGMOcorn.ThebrandthatwerecommendintheUnitedStatesisBob’sRedMill.Theypledgethattheirproductsarenon-GMO,tothebestoftheirknowledge.OrganicproductsarenotallowedtobeGMO,soanyorganicmasayoucanfindwillautomaticallybenon-GMOtoo.

Marketsandregulationschangefromtimetotime,soifGMOisaconcernforyou,asitisforus,youmayneedtodosomeresearch.

CHAPTERTHIRTEEN

FERMENTEDCOCKTAILSUR-PIÑACOLADA

TEPACHEHIGHBALL

CALIENTE

TEPACHESMASH

KOMBUCHASANGRIA

KOMBUCHAMEZCAL

KOMBUCHACARAJILLO

KOMBUCHASHANDY

LOUISCK/KANSASCITY

KIMCHIBLOODYMARY

SAUERKRAUTMICHELADA

KIMCHIMICHELADA

HIBISCUSMEZCAL

ORANGINAMARGARITA

APPLECIDERMARGARITA

APPLECIDERBELLINI

GINGERALEALAMEXICANA

GINGERALECRANBERRYVODKA

Aswe’veseen,fermentationandhumanshavealonghistorytogether,andfermenteddrinkshave

beenaroundforalongtime.Essentiallyallthealcoholthathumansconsumeistheresultof

fermentation,eitherdirectlyorconcentratedviaaprocessknownasdistilling.

Yeastisresponsibleforconvertingsugarintoalcohol,butyeastitselfhasonlyalimitedtoleranceforalcohol;ifthecircumstancesareright,yeastwillproduceenoughalcoholtopoisonitself!Differentyeastshavedifferentthresholds.Themostextremeyeastscansurviveupto25%ABV,butthisisunusual.Mostyeastscannotgetevencloseto25%,andmostfermenteddrinksarenowherenearthisstrong.

Wildfermenteddrinkstendtohaveloweralcoholcontentsthandrinksmadewithdomesticatedyeasts,bothbecausewildyeastshavelowertolerancesandbecausewildfermentsgenerallyincorporatesomepopulationofaceticacid-producingbacteria.Thatmeansthatwhiletheyeastisproducingalcohol,thebacteriaareconvertingsomeofitintoacid.Industrialwineandbeerproductionisdoneundermorecarefullycontrolledconditions,anditusesdomesticatedcultivatedyeastsdevelopedforhigheralcoholtolerances,somodernwineswithalcoholconcentrationsof13%oreven15%arenotunusual.Beerswithcomparablelevelsofalcoholarebecomingmorepopulartoo.

MEASURINGALCOHOL

Thethreecommonlyusedmeasuresofalcoholarealcoholbyvolume(ABV),alcoholbyweight(ABW),andproof.

Atlowalcoholconcentrations,ABWisabout80%ofABV.Athigherconcentrations,therelationshipgetsmorecomplicated.Sobeerthatis3.2%ABW,forinstance,isapproximately4.0%ABV.ThereareafewstatesintheUnitedStatesthathaveseparatelawsgoverningbeerthatis3.2%ABWandbelow.ThisregulatorystructureisleftoverfromtherepealofProhibition.ThisbeerisontheweakersideofwhatpeopleoftendrinkintheUnitedStates,butisnotunusualinotherbeer-drinkingcountries.

IntheUnitedStates,proofisdefinedtobedoubleABVexpressedasapercentage.Soadrinkthatis40%ABVis80proof.Otherplacesdefineproofdifferently;intheU.K.,forexample,proofisapproximately1.75timesABVasapercentage.Therearehistoricalreasonsforthesevariousdefinitions.

Wildfermenteddrinksareoftenunfiltered,whilemodernindustrialdrinksarealmostalwaysfiltered.Thethingslostthroughfilteringincludenutrients,Bvitaminsamongthem,thatmaysupportliverfunction;thusunfiltered,wilddrinksarelikelytobeeasieronourbodiesthanindustriallyproducedones,bothbecauseoftheirloweralcoholandbecausetheyincludetheirown“hangoverhelper.”Rememberthisthenexttimeyouhaveahangover!Havingsaidthis,ifwearewillingtotaketheriskandpossiblysufferthe

consequences,howcanwegetdrinkswithhigheralcoholconcentrationsthanareachievableviafermentationalone,evenfermentationwithdomesticatedsuper-yeasts?Generally,wegetstrongerdrinksbytakingadvantageofthefactthatalcohol

boils,orfreezes,atlowertemperaturesthanwaterdoes.Thisallowsustoseparateoutalcoholandwaterviafractionalfreezingorfractionaldistillation.

Fractionalfreezing,becauseitrequiresnospecialstools,iseasytodoathome.Partiallyfreezeyourdrink;theicecrystalsthatformwillcontainaproportionallyhigherconcentrationofwater,andtheremainingliquidwillhaveaproportionallyhigherconcentrationofalcoholandotherdrinkcomponents.Thisprocessisknowncolloquiallyas“jacking;”ifyoudoitwithhardcider,theresultingdrinkisknownas“applejack.”Youcanusethistechniquetogethigheralcohollevels,butopinionsdifferabouthowsafeitis.Alongwiththedesiredethanol,othercomponentsofthedrinkgetconcentratedtoo,someofthempotentiallyproblematic—methanolforinstance,alsoknownaswoodalcohol,whichcancauseblindnessanddeathifconsumedinlargeamounts.Ifyoudochoosetoexperiment,rememberthatwaterexpandswhenitfreezes,soloosenorremoveanylidsorcapsbeforetryingthis.Cleaningbrokenglassoutofafreezerisnotfun—we’vedoneit!Onalargerscale,higheralcoholconcentrationsaregenerallyachievedvia

fractionaldistillation.Thisinvolvesheatingtheliquidmixturesothatpartsofit(fractions)evaporate,orboiloff—thatis,changefromaliquidintoagas.Differentpartsboiloffatdifferenttemperatures.Thepartthatboilsoffinaspecifictemperaturerangeiscollectedandcooledandcondensesbackintoaliquid.Ethanolboilsatitsowndistincttemperature,sobycontrollingthetemperatureandcollectingthecondensate,it’spossibletoboiloff(mostly)thealcoholthatwewantandthencondenseitbackintoaliquidelsewhere.Whatdoesthishavetodowithcocktails?Thesedays,cocktailsarealmostalwaysmadefromdistilledalcohol.The

exception,popularwithestablishmentsthataren’tlicensedtosellstrongalcohol,arecocktailsmadefromwines,beers,sojus,andsakes.Fermenteddrinksofferabroadrangeofsourandspicyflavorsthatbegtobe

turnedintococktailsfortheadventurous.Whynotmakecocktailsthatincludefermentedfoodsanddrinksoutsidetheusualones?

UR-PIÑACOLADAThemodernPiñaColada,containingpineapplejuice,coconutcream,andrum,isquitedelicious,but

canalsobequitesweet,anddrinkingtoomanycanleadtoregretsthenextday.Whatifwecould

makeaprobioticversionofthedrinkwithlessalcohol,lesssugar,andmorevitamins?Wecan.And

wecanalsospeculatethatperhapsinthelandsofcoconutsandpineapple,peopleweredrinking

coconutwater(freshorfermented)alongsidepineapple(freshorfermented)withoutrumforquite

sometime,beforethe“official”inventionofthemodernPiñaColadainthenineteenthortwentieth

century.Wecanenjoythekinder,gentlerPiñaColadatoday,andinfact,wecanenjoyitallday,

withouttoomuchriskofgettingtoodrunk.Orwecanhavethebestofbothworlds,oldandnew,by

combiningthefermentedtropicaldrinkswithashotofrum.

YIELD:ABOUT12OUNCES(375ML)

Ice

4ounces(125ml)CoconutSodaKefir,freshcoconutwater,coconutmilk,orcoconutcream4ounces(125ml)Tepache

1shot(11/2fluidounces,or45ml)rumorspicedrum(optional)Fillacocktailshakerwithice,coconutwater,tepache,andrum(ifusing).Shakeandstrainintoachilledglasswithsomemoreice.Serveimmediately.

TEPACHEHIGHBALLAhighballistypicallyashotofastrongdrinkmixedintoatallglassofasofterdrink.Thefirst

officialhighballmayhavebeenthescotchandsoda,aroundthebeginningofthetwentiethcentury.

Thetermballwasusedtosignifyadrinkofwhiskeyandhighbecauseitwasservedinatallglass!

Theformulahasspreadwidelysince,inmanyvariations.Forsomethingnew,trythisTepache

Highball.

YIELD:ABOUT12OUNCES(375ML)

8ounces(250ml)Tepache

1shot(11/2fluidounces,or45ml)ofmezcal1teaspoonaguamieldemaguey,maplesyrup,ormolasses,ortotasteIce

1splashofclubsoda

Pineapplewedge

Chapulín,ant,orwormsalt,orplainsalt

Stirthetepache,mezcal,andaguamieldemagueyinahighballglassuntilwellmixed.Fillaglasswithiceandtopwithclubsoda.Addapineapplewedgeandsprinklewithsalt.Serve.

(UN)COMMONMEXICANSALTS

Enjoythesesaltsthathavebeenaroundsincepre-Hispanictimes.Formoreinformation,visitwww.companiadesales.com.

•SaldeHormiga,alsoknownasantsalt,ismadewithpowderedblackants.

•SaldeGusano,alsoknownaswormsalt,ismadewithgroundupagaveworms.

•SaldeChapulin,alsoknownasgrasshoppersalt,ismadewithpowderedgrasshoppers.

CALIENTECalienteistheSpanishwordfor“hot,”anditmeanshotinbothsenses:weatheranddesires.This

cocktail,involvingtepache,gingerbeer,andhotpeppersauce,canhelpbothkeepoutthecoldand

raiseyourpassions.

YIELD:ABOUT12OUNCES(375ML)

Saltforrim,plain,seasoned,orsmoked

2ounces(60ml)Tepache

8ounces(250ml)GingerBeer

Crushedice

Dashofhotpeppersauce

Salttherimofatallglass.Pourthetepacheandgingerbeerintotheglass.Addcrushediceandpepper

sauce.Stirandserve.

TEPACHESMASHWenamedthiscocktailTepacheSmashbecausedrinkingitfeelslikedivingintotheCaribbeanSea

inahotsummerday.

YIELD:ABOUT12OUNCES(375ML)

8ounces(250ml)Tepache

1shot(11/2fluidounces,or45ml)ofginCrushedice

Pourthetepacheandginintoachilledglass.Addcrushedice.Stirandserve.

KOMBUCHASANGRIASangriaistypicallypreparedbymixingredwinewithlemonadeandaddingchunksoffruit.Itisgood

forsummertimewhenredwinealonecanfeeltooheavy.Thisisasangriatwist—lesssugarand

moreprobioticcontent.

YIELD:1SERVING

8ounces(250ml)unflavoredKombucha

2to4ounces(60to125ml)redwine

2tablespoons(30g)choppedfruitorfruitcocktail

Ice(optional)

Pourthekombuchaandredwineintoalargewineglass.Stirgently.Addthefruitandice(ifusing).Serve.

KOMBUCHAMEZCALMezcalisadistilledalcoholdrinkfromtheagaveplant.IttypicallycomesfromoneofMexico’smost

beautifulstates,Oaxaca.Ithasasmokytasteandismorecomplexthantequila.Ifmezcalisdrunkby

itself,itisoftenaccompaniedbysomelime,orangeslices,andchilipowder—oreventastierwith

warmsalt.Itisbestsippedandenjoyed,notchuggedwildlyasifatabachelorparty.

KombuchaMezcalisperfecttointroducemezcaltoyourtastebuds.Itgiveskombuchaanextrakick

andahintofseduction.

YIELD:1SERVING

8ounces(250ml)berry-flavoredKombucha(seehere)1ounce(30ml)mezcal

Crushedice

Pourthekombuchaandmezcalintoalargewineglass.Stirgently.Addcrushediceandserve.

KOMBUCHACARAJILLOWelovecarajilloasadigestivedrinkinMexicoafterabigmeal.Atypicalcarajilloispreparedby

mixingLicor43(verysweetandhighalcoholcontent),espresso,andlotsofice.

YIELD:1SERVING

1/2cup(125ml)CoffeeKombuchaorregularKombucha

2ounces(60ml)Licor43

Crushedice

Pourthekombuchaintoanoldfashionedglass.StirintheLicor43andcrushedice.Serve.

KOMBUCHASHANDYThisisasimplerecipe:Addsomeflavoredkombuchatoyourfavoritebeer.Wesuggestaginger-or

citrus-flavoredkombucha,combinedwithalightbeerorlager.Thisway,boththekombuchaandthe

beercomethrough.But,ofcourse,youarefreetoexperimentandseewhatyoulikebest.

Thisisagreatdrinkforawarmsummerafternoon,orforearlyevening,sinceit’snottoostrong.It

tasteslikesweetandsourbeer!

YIELD:12OUNCES(375ML)

6ounces(175ml)beer

6ounces(175ml)Kombucha

Ice(optional)

Pourthebeerintoatallglass.Stirinthekombucha.Stirgently.Addiceifdesired.Serve.

LOUISCK/KANSASCITYCombiningtheaperitifanddigestifpowersofCampariandkombucha,thisdrinkisgreatbeforea

meal,afterameal,orforsippingatyourfavoritecomedycluborjazzclub.Dialitinsothatthe

sweet,sour,andbitternotesarebalancedperfectlyforyourpalate.

YIELD:1SERVING

Ice

6ounces(175ml)plainorflavoredkombucha,suchasberry,grape,orpear(seehereorhere)1shot(11/2fluidounces,or45ml)ofCampari,ortotasteFillatallglasswithiceandpourthekombuchaoverit.StirintheCampariandserve.

KIMCHIBLOODYMARYTheBloodyMarycocktailasweknowittodaywasprobablycreatedbyFernandPetiotin1921atthe

NewYorkBarinParis,whichlaterbecameHarry’sNewYorkBar,acommonhauntofErnest

Hemmingway.

Itwentthroughafewnames,includingBucketofBloodandRedSnapper,beforesettlingonBloody

Mary.Accordingtooneexplanation,thefamousspicytomatojuiceandvodkacocktailwasnamed

afterQueenMaryIofEnglandwhosenicknamewasBloodyMary.

AnotherexplanationofthenameisthatthenameBloodyMarywasamispronunciationofthename

Vladimir,afterVladimirSmirnoff,whosevodkalikelygracedtheearlydrinks.

Decadeslater,intheearly1940s,Lifemagazinedescribedavodka–tomatojuicecocktailnamedthe

RedHammer.ThisnamecannothaveplayedwellonceU.S.andRussiarelationssouredinthelate

1940s!

TheregularBloodyMaryhasareputationasahangovertonic;theKimchiBloodyMarycanonlybe

better,sincekimchijuicehassignificantlymorevitaminsandenzymesthancanned,deadtomato

juice.

YIELD:1SERVING

3/4cup(175ml)kimchijuice1ounce(30ml)vodka

Crushedice

1celerystick(optional)

Pourthekimchijuiceandvodkaintoalargeglass.Stir.Addcrushediceandacelerystick(ifusing)andserve.

◁KIMCHIMICHELADATheMicheladaisatypicalMexicanalcoholicdrinkmadewithbeer,sourjuices,spices,andlime.You

canthinkofitasaBloodyMarymadewithbeerinsteadofvodka.Useanybeeryoulike,butwe

preferlagersandlighterbeersthataren’theavilyhopped.

Likemanydrinks,itissaidtobetheperfectcureforanastyhangover.ThecasefortheKimchi

Micheladaisstrongerbecauseofthetonicpropertiesoffermentedjuice.Kimchiwillgivethis

versionaspicytwistplusashotofprobiotics.

YIELD:1SERVING

Seasaltorwormsalt(optional)

8ounces(250ml)beer

1/4cup(60ml)kimchijuiceCrushedice

Celerystick(optional)

Salttherimofatallglass(ifsalting).Addthebeerandkimchijuice.Addcrushediceandacelerystick(ifusing).Stir.

SAUERKRAUTMICHELADAForpeoplewhowanttotryaprobioticmicheladabutdonotlikespicybeverages,thisistheperfect

blend.

YIELD:1SERVING

Seasaltorwormsalt(optional)

8ounces(250ml)beer

1/4cup(60ml)sauerkrautjuiceCrushedice

Salttherimofatallglass(ifsalting).Pourinthebeerandsauerkrautjuice.Addcrushedice.Stirandserve.

HIBISCUSMEZCALAswiththeKombuchaMezcal,preparingthiscocktailcanslowlyintroduceyoutosavoringmezcal.It

isabeautifullyrefreshingdrinkforsummerparties.

YIELD:1SERVING

8ounces(250ml)HibiscusSoda

1ounce(30ml)mezcal

Crushedice

Pourthehibiscussodaandmezcalintoalargewineglass.Addcrushediceandserve.

ORANGINAMARGARITAThisistheperfectmarriagebetweenFranceandMexico.Itwouldn’tbeapropercocktailchapter

withoutamargaritarecipe!Withthisprobioticmargarita,youcansipguiltlesslyunderthesun,by

thepool,orbesidetheocean.

YIELD:1SERVING

6ounces(175ml)Orangina

1ounce(30ml)mezcalortequila

1teaspoongranulatedsugar

Splashoflimejuice

Ice

Blendtheorangina,mezcal,sugar,limejuice,andiceinablender.Pourintoatallglassandserve.

APPLECIDERMARGARITAItwouldn’tbeapropercocktailchapterwithoutamargaritarecipe!Withthisprobioticmargarita,you

cansipguiltlesslyunderthesun,bythepool,orbesidetheocean.

YIELD:1SERVING

Ice

6ounces(175ml)pomegranatejuice,freshorfermented1ounce(30ml)mezcalortequila

1teaspoongranulatedsugar

Splashoflimejuice

1tablespoon(15ml)fermentedAppleCider

Blendtheiceandallotheringredientsinablender.Pourintoamargaritaglassandserve.

APPLECIDERBELLINI(CELLINI)TheBellinidrinkwasinventedbythebartenderGiuseppeCiprianiatHarry’sBarinVenice.Thebar

wasopenedin1931byCiprianiandanAmericannamedHarryPickering.ThissameCiprianithat

laterbuilttheCiprianiHotelinVenice.ThisstorywastoldtoRaquelbyAdrianMourby,award-

winningwriterandproducer,journalist,andhotelhistorianwhilesippingBellinisatHarry’sBar.It

wasnamedBelliniafterthefamousRenaissanceItalianpainterGiovanniBellini.

AsIlearned,Bellinisaremadewithonlyprosecco(sparklingItalianwine)andpeachpurée.So,we

decidedtointroduceanewnamefortheciderversion:Cellini.Perhaps,someday,Harry’sBarwill

decidetoserveCellinis.

YIELD:1SERVING

8ounces(250ml)sparklingwineorprosecco

1tablespoon(15ml)fermentedAppleCider

Crispappleslicestogarnish

Pourthesparklingwineintoachampagneglass,addtheapplecider,andgarnishwiththeslicedapples.Serve.

GINGERALEALAMEXICANAGingeraleisnotwidelyconsumedinMexico,butwethoughtthatincorporatingtequilaormezcal

couldhelpmorepeopletryit.

YIELD:1SERVING

Ice

8ounces(250ml)GingerBeer

1ounce(30ml)mezcalortequila

Splashoflimejuice

Fillatallglasswithice.Pourinthegingerbeer,mezcal,andlimejuice.Serve.

GINGERALECRANBERRYVODKAThisisaproperEnglish-Russianmixwithprobioticcontentandtheantioxidantpowerofcranberries.

YIELD:1SERVING

8ounces(250ml)GingerBeer

4ounces(125ml)cranberryjuice

1ounce(30ml)vodka

Crushedice

Pourthegingerbeer,cranberryjuice,andvodkaintoatallglass.Addcrushediceandserve.

RESOURCES

FORMOREONFERMENTINGFOODS:

■RealFoodFermentation(Lewin)■TheArtofFermentationandWildFermentation(Katz)■WildFermentation:www.wildfermentation.com

■TheArtofNaturalCheesemaking(Asher)■TheBlackSheepSchoolofCheesemaking:www.theblacksheepschool.com■CulturesforHealth:www.culturesforhealth.com■NourishingTraditions(Fallon)

FORMOREONKOMBUCHA:

■TheBigBookofKombucha(CrumandLaGory)■Kombucha:TheBalancingAct:http://users.bestweb.net/~om/kombucha_balance■KombuchaKamp:www.kombuchakamp.com■Kombucha—HealthyBeverageandNaturalRemedyfromtheFarEast(Frank)

FORMOREONTHESCIENCEBEHINDFERMENTATION:■TheBotanyofDesire(Pollan)

■GutandPsychologySyndrome(Campbell-McBride)■NutritionandPhysicalDegeneration(WestonA.Price)■“OriginsofMajorHumanInfectiousDiseases”

■ImprovingFoodSafetyThroughaOneHealthApproach(InstituteofMedicine)

FORMOREONFERMENTATIONINACULTURALCONTEXT:■FermentedFruitsandVegetables:AGlobalPerspective(BattcockandAzam-Ali)■Guns,Germs,andSteel(Diamond)

■TheWestonA.PriceFoundation:www.westonaprice.org■“TheWorstMistakeintheHistoryoftheHumanRace”Discovermagazine,5/2/87

TOFINDSUPPLIES:

Ifthere’sahomebrewstorenearyou,it’sworthvisitingandchattingwiththesalespeople,whoareoftenenthusiasticfermenterswillingtofieldyourquestions.Someofthelargerequipment(e.g.,bigjugs)arebestboughtinperson.

■Amazon:www.amazon.com■Craigslist:www.craigslist.org■KombuchaKamp:www.kombuchakamp.com

■“RawMilkNation,”Farm-to-ConsumerLegalDefenseFund:www.farmtoconsumer.org/raw-milk-nation-interactive-map

■RedditFindaSCOBYboard:http://reddit.com/r/findascoby■YeastBankatWhiteLabs:www.whitelabs.com/yeast-bank/

TOGETINVOLVEDINTHEFERMENTATIONCOMMUNITY:■Facebookgroups:WildFermentation;PuraFermentación;KombuchaNation:Cultures,Health,andHealing!;KombuchaKitchenPrivateCommunity;BostonCultureSharingVisithttp://resources.KombuchaKefirandBeyond.comforanexpandedlistofresources.

ABOUTTHEAUTHORS

ALEXLEWIN,agraduateoftheCambridgeSchoolofCulinaryArtsandtheInstituteforIntegrativeNutrition,seekstocreateahealthierandtastierworldbyspreadingthewordaboutfermentationandrealfood.HeteachesfermentationclassesandworkshopsandservedontheboardoftheBostonPublicMarketAssociation,wherehehelpedcreateayear-roundindoormarketsellinglocalfood.HelivesinBostonandSanFrancisco.Visithisblogatwww.FeedMeLikeYouMeanIt.com.

RAQUELGUAJARDO,agraduateoftheInstituteforIntegrativeNutrition,runsacookingschoolinMonterey,Mexico,specializinginfermentation.Shealsosupportslocal,organic,andsustainablefarming.Shestartedherownbrandofkombuchaandfermentedvegetables,whichcanbefoundinstoresinseveralMexicancities.Herwebsiteiswww.raquelguarjardo.com.

RECIPEDIRECTORY

5FIVE-MINUTERECIPESSweetLassi

SaltyorSavoryLassi

Doogh

SaltyFermentedLemonadeorLimeade

Switchel

Sekanjabin

6STARTERS,MASTERRECIPES,ANDGENERALPRINCIPLESMasterRecipe:GingerBug

MasterRecipe:Yogurt

MasterRecipe:MilkKefir

MasterRecipe:Whey

MasterRecipe:Vinegar

MasterRecipe:WaterKefir

7KOMBUCHAANDJUNKombucha,Method1:Batch

Kombucha,Method2:Continuous-Brew

SCOBYfromStore-BoughtKombucha

FlavoredKombucha:SecondFermentation(2F)

CoffeeKombucha

Jun

8VEGETABLEDRINKSBeetKvass

CucumberPickleBrine

RadishBrine

JuicedFermentedVegetables

KimchiSoda

FermentedGreenJuice

9SODASHibiscusSoda

GrapeSoda

FruitySoda

Lemongina/Limegina

Orangina

FruitJuiceSodas

CoconutSodaKefir

10BEERS,GRAINS,ANDROOTSKhadi(SouthAfricanBeer)

BreadKvass

Rejuvelac

Root(s)Beer

GingerBeer

11WINES,CIDERS,ANDFRUITS(ANDVINEGAR!)

AppleCider1,2,3

Perry

BerryWine

CountryWine

PrisonWine/Hooch

Mead

RiceWine

SparklingCountryWine

12MEXICANPRE-HISPANICDRINKSPulque

Colonche

Tepache

Tejuino

13FERMENTEDCOCKTAILSUr-PiñaColada

TepacheHighball

Caliente

TepacheSmash

KombuchaSangria

KombuchaMezcal

KombuchaCarajillo

KombuchaShandy

LouisCK/KansasCity

KimchiBloodyMary

SauerkrautMichelada

KimchiMichelada

HibiscusMezcal

OranginaMargarita

AppleCiderMargarita

AppleCiderBellini

GingerAlealaMexicana

GingerAleCranberryVodka

INDEX

ABV(alcoholbyvolume),102,184ABW(alcoholbyweight),184Acerglyn,165Acetobacter,79,81Acocote,173,174Advertising,11,16Agavenectar,174AgriculturalRevolution,29Agriculture,sedentary,29Aguamiel,173,174Aguamieldemaguey,62,63Pulquewithmilkkefirgrains,175SweetLassai,69Switchel,74TepacheHighball,187WaterKefir,96

Airlocks,forlids,51,53,55,120,122,155,161,164Alchemy,38Alcohol.SeealsoCocktailsbaseforherbalpotions,31biochemistryoffermentationand,39DrunkenMonkeyhypothesisand,28fermentingwithaclosedlidforbuildingup,53healthbenefits,18,31,44home-fermenteddrinkslowerin,18inkombucha,102measuring,184non-industrialfermentationand,18techniqueforgettinghigherlevelsof,185inwildfermenteddrinks,184yeastsand,40,78,184

Alcoholbyvolume(ABV),102,184Alcoholbyweight(ABW),184Alcoholcontentales,142fractionalfreezingordistillationand,185GingerBeer,150inkombucha,111pulque,174Root(s)Beer,148insodas,129wildfermenteddrinks,184

Alcoholproduction,large-scale,18Ales,141,142Alternativemedicine,42

Amaranth,141Amazake,40Ambientair,80Ambientair,accessto,80AncientGreeceandRome,30,31,33Antibacterialsoaps,58,59Antibiotics,24,32Antsalt,187“Theapértifeffect,”28Apfelwein,154AppleCiderBellini,198AppleCiderMargarita,197AppleCiderSoda,135,154AppleCiderVinegar,155,157Applecidervinegar.SeeRawapplecidervinegar“Applejack,”185Armelagos,George,31Artificialsweeteners,62TheArtofNaturalCheesemaking(Asher),92Asher,David,92,135,175Aspartame,62Atoms,36Autoimmunehealthproblems,41Avitamins,43Aztecs,the,33

Bacteria.SeealsoMicrobesacetobacter,79,81defined,39,78fermentationprocessand,39GingerBugstarter,83kombuchaand,99,100lactic-acidproducing,78SCOBYand,79,104waron,24wildbeersand,141

Bacterialstarters,80Barley,141,172Barleywines/barleywines,142Batchmethodforkombucha,105Beer(s)categoriesofgrain,141GingerBeer,150growinggrainsand,30Khadi(SouthAfrican),143KimchiMichelada,194KobuchaShandy,191madewithStreptyomycesmicrobe,32pseudo-grainferments,141

Rejuvelac,146replacingpulqueinMexico,172Root(s)Beer,148SauerkrautMichelada,195winevs.,130

BeerBeforeBreadtheory,30Beerbottles,55,56,82BeetKvass,118Beetsugar,63,103Bellini,Giovanni,198Berry-flavoredkombucha,118,190BerryWine,159SparklingCountryWine,168

Biochemistry,36Bio-individuality,42Blacktea,103BloodyMary,Kimchi,193Bob’sRedMill,180TheBotanyofDesire(Pollan),24Bottles,55.SeealsoGrolsch-stylebottles;Vesselsavoidingexplosionsof,82,97,113,130beer,55,56,82forhibiscussoda,129kombucha,56,82,161wine,56,82,159

Bottling,56,82AppleCiderSoda,155HibiscusSoda,129kombucha,107,110,113

Botulism,58BPA-freeplasticbottles.SeePlasticcontainersBread,30,33,78BreadKvass,144Brinecucumberpickle,120radish,122

Brownsugar,62,96,178Buckwheat,141,146Búlgarosdeleche.SeeMilkkefirgrains(búlgaros)Bvitamins,14,43,155

Cabbage,20,44,122Caliente,188Camelliasinensis,103Campari,192Campbell-McBride,Natasha,42Canesugar,63,96,99,103,136Cannabis,24,29Cannedfoods,botulismand,58Cannedfruitjuice,fermenteddrinksvs.,45

Canningfunnel,53Carajillo,Kombucha,191Carbohydrates,38Carbonation,53,81,148,150Carboys,55Cardamom,inSweetLassi,70Carrotkvass,119Cassavabeer,142Cassavaroot,141Caveatemptor,principleof,17Celery,125,193,195Cellini(AppleCiderBellini),198Chamomiletea,103Champagnebottles,82Chapman,John,157Chapulínsalt,187Chartreuseherballiqueur,31Cheesecloth,53,92Cheesemaking,91Cheeses,moldsand,78Chemicalcompound,36Chemicalreaction,37Chemicalsanitizingliquids,59Chloramine,62Chlorine,61,104CidersAppleCider,154,197,198pear(Perry),154,158Perry,158

Cinnamon,71,89,122,148,158,178Cipriani,Giuseppe,198CiprianiHotel,Venice,198Civilization,fermentationand,29“Classic-style”kombucha,111Clothhandkerchiefs,53,57Cloves,120,178Cocktails,183appealoffermentedbeveragesas,21AppleCiderBellini,198AppleCiderMargarita,197Caliente,188GingerAlealaMexicana,199HibiscusMezcal,196KimchiBloodyMary,193KimchiMichelada,194KombuchaCarajillo,191KombuchaMezcal,190KombuchaSangria,189

KombuchaShandy,191OranginaMargarita,196SauerkrautMichelada,195TepacheHighball,187TepacheSmash,189Ur-PiñaColada,186

Coconutcream,186Coconutmilk,90,186CoconutSodaKefir,136Coconutsugar,62Coconutwater,22,90,136,186Coffee,fermenteddrinksvs.,45Coffeefilters,53CoffeeKombucha,113KombuchaCarajillo,191

Colonche,176Commercials,11Complexcarbohydrates,39,140Complexsugars,140Continuous-brewkombuchasetup,108Cornstarch,63CountryWine,161SparklingCountryWine,168

Cranberryjuice,199Crum,Hannah,101CucumberCucumberPickleBrine,120FermentedGreenJuice,125

Cumin,71Currypowder,71Cvitamins,14,43

Dandelionroot,148Dave,GT,101Dave,Laraine,101Demerarasugar,62Dextrose,36,39Diamond,Jared,30Digestion,12,14drinkingwaterand,20healthbenefitsoffermenteddrinksand,18,19,44healthproblems,41

Digestiveenzymes,38Disaccharides,39,101,114,140,165Dishsoap,59Dishwasherpowder,58,59Doogh,72Dr.HosKombuchaBeer,102Drinkableyogurts,23

DrunkenMonkeyhypothesis,28TheDrunkenMonkey:WhyWeDrinkandAbuseAlcohol(Dudley),28Drymasaflour,180,181DryyeastColonche,176Khadi,143

Dudley,Robert,28

EarlGreytea,103Eggshells,96Einstein,Albert,16Electronickitchenscale,50Elements,36,38Endothermicreaction,38Enzymes,12,14,38,117Equipment.SeeToolsandequipmentEucharist,33Evolution,28Exothermicreaction,38Explosions,avoidingbottle,82,97,113,130

Fallon,Sally,92,134,146Fato,Ernesto,83Fennelseed,71Fermentation.SeealsoFermentedfoodsanddrinks;Secondaryfermentation(2f)accesstoambientairfor,

80canningvs.,58earlyhistoryof,28explained,12human-microberelationshipand,24religionand,33roleinhealth,31toolsandequipmentfor,47

Fermentedcoconutwater,23Fermentedfoodsanddrinks.SeealsoBeer(s);Kombucha;Sodas;Vegetabledrinksappealof,20benefitsof,18biochemistryand,39culturalcontinuityand,22healthbenefitsof,14,18,42loweralcoholcontentin,18Mexicanpre-Hispanic,171naming,139nutrientsin,43otherdrinksvs.,43reasonsformakinghomemade,23spoilageof,18supportinggutmicrobes,19usedascarriersformedicinalplantsandherbs,31

FermentedGreenJuice,125

Fermentedvegetables,juiced,1235-minutefermentedvegetablejuices,68Fizziness,55Flavoredkombucha,112,192Flip-topGrolsch-stylebottles,55,56,112,130,148,161,168Flyswatters,61Foodnutrients,14FoodoftheGodsTheSearchfortheOriginalTreeofKnowledge,ARadicalHistoryofPlants,Drugs,and

HumanEvolution(McKenna),28Foodscience,14Fractionaldistillation,185Fractionalfreezing,185Frank,Günther,101Franklin,Benjamin,33Fructose,36,39,40,114,140Fruit(s)addingtomilkkefir,89beerscontainingadded,142BerryWine,159CountryWine,161earlyancestorseatingfermented,28flavoringkombuchawith,112FruitySoda,131PrisonWine,162SweetLassi,70

Fruitflytraps,61FruitjuicesforFruitJuiceSodas,135milkkefirgrainsusedtoculture,90

FruitJuiceSodas,135Fruitwine,154,159FruitySoda,131Full-fatyogurt.SeePlainfull-fatyogurtFunnel,canning,53

Galactose,36,39Galangal,85,148GAPSdiet,101Gases,51Genetically-modified(GMO)beets,63,103Genetically-modified(GMO)corn,63Genetically-modified(GMO)masa,180Genetically-modified(GMO)yeasts,18Gin,31,189GingerBeetKvass,118FermentedGreenJuice,125GingerBeer,150Khadi,143

Root(s)Beer,148Sekanjabin,75Switchel,74

GingerAle,142GingerAlealaMexicana,199GingerAleCranberryVodka,199GingerBeer,150,188GingerBug,148GingerBeer,150recipe,83

Glassjugs,55Glucose,36,39,40,114,140Grainbeers,141Grain,sedentaryagricultureand,30Granulatedsugar,62BerryWine,159BreadKvass,144CountryWine,161FruitySoda,131GingerBeer,150GingerBug,83HibiscusSoda,128Khadi,143kombucha,99,109,113Lemongina/Limegina,132PrisonWine,162Root(s)Beer,148Scoby,111Sekanjabin,75SparklingCountryWine,168SweetLassi,69

Grapecider,154Grapeleaves,120GrapeSoda,130Grapette,130Grasshoppersalt,187Greenapple,125Greentea,103,115Grolsch-stylebottles,55,56,112,130,148,161,168GT’sKombucha,101,102GutandPsychologySyndrome(Campbell-McBride),42Gutenzymes,12,14Gutmicrobiologyandhealth,19,41,43

Handkerchiefs,53,57HardAppleCider,157Harry’sBar,Venice,198Healthbenefits,14,18,42Healthproblems,41

Hemingway,Ernest,193Herbalinfusions,103HerbsandspicesCucumberPickleBrine,120cucumberpicklebrine,120fermenteddrinksusedascarriersformedicinal,31FlavoredKombucha,112Mead,164RadishBrine,122

HibiscusSodaHibiscusMezcal,196recipe,128

HolyCommunion,33Homefermentation,benefitsof,22Hominidevolution,28Honey,62.SeealsoRawhoneyJunand,100,114,140Honeymead,140,165Hooch/PrisonWine,162SparklingCountryWine,168

Hops,141Humansaliva,141Hunter-gatherers,29,30,41Hygiene,excessive,25

Immunesystems,25Industrialchemicalpreservatives,44Industrialfoods,14,16,17,18,20Industrialwineandbeerproduction,142,184Islam,18Isomers,36,39

“Jacking,”185Jaggery,62Jars.SeealsoVesselscoversfor,53forMilkKefir,88safetyandsanitationwhenusing,58sizesofMason,50,51withspigots,57storage,55washing,50

JohnnyAppleseed,157Jugs,55,59,159,164JuicedFermentedVegetables,123Jun,79,100,104,114,140Juniper,31

Kale,125Katz,Sandor,128

Kefir,19,21,23,45,68,72.SeealsoMilkkefir;Waterkefir(tíbicos)Kefirgrains.SeeMilkkefirgrains(búlgaros);WaterkefirgrainsKhadi(SouthAfricanBeer),143

Kimchi,20,44,68,123KimchiBloodyMary,193KimchiMichelada,194KimchiSoda,124Kombucha,23.SeealsoJunalcoholcontent,102batchmethodformaking,105coffee,113continuous-brewmethodformaking,108flavored,112ingredientsformaking,103juncomparedwith,114KombuchaCarajillo,191KombuchaMezcal,190KombuchaSangria,189KombuchaShandy,191LouisCK/KansasCity,192manynamesof,100overview,99reasonsformakingathome,102recipe,114riseof,101SCOBYgrownfromstore-bought,111sugarin,62supplies,57

Kombuchabottles,56,82,161KombuchaBrewersInternational,101KombuchaCarajillo,191Kombucha:HealthyBeverageandNaturalRemedyfromtheFarEast,ItsCorrectPreparationandUse

(Frank),101KombuchaMezcal,190KombuchaSangria,189KombuchaShandy,191Kvass,21,23BeetKvass,118BreadKvass,144

Kvitamins,43

Lacticacidbacteria(LABs),78Lacticacidfermentation(lactofermentation),78Lacticacidreaction,39Lactose,39,86,88,90,140Lagers,141LaGory,Alex,101Lemonade,SaltyFermented,73Lemongina,132Libation,33Licor43

KombuchaCarajillo,191Licorice,148Limeade,SaltyFermented,73Limegina,132Limejuice,134,148,181,196,197,199Low-alcoholbeverages,18

Magueyplant,33,173,174MakeRoom!MakeRoom!(novel),15Maltose,39,140Mango,70Maplesyrup,62,63,140Acerglyn,165CoconutSodaKefir,136SweetLassi,69Switchel,74TepacheHighball,187

Maplesyrupmead,140MaryI,QueenofEngland,193Masadough,180,181Masaharina,181Masonjarsandlids,50,51,53bottlingwith,56cleaning,59Kombuchabrewedin,57safetyandsanitationwhenusing,59

Mayahuel(goddess),33McKenna,Terence,28Mead,65,140,164Measuringtools,48Merino,Marcela,125Mesquiteleaves,120Metabolism,38Metalstrainers,90Methanol,185Metheglin,164Metricconversions,50Metricsystem,48,50MexicanPre-HispanicDrinks,171Colonche,176Pulque,172Tejuino,181Tepache,178

Mexicansalts,187Mexico,12MezcalAppleCiderMargarita,197GingerAlealaMexicana,199HibiscusMezcal,196

KombuchaMezcal,190OranginaMargarita,196TepacheHighball,187

Michelada,123KimchiMichelada,194SauerkrautMichelada,195

Michelson,AlbertAbraham,15Microbes,12,14.SeealsoBacteria;Molds;Yeast(s)explained,39fermentationand,12,14fermenteddrinkscontaining“friendly,”43gut,19gutenzymesand,12,14inthehumanorganism,20humanrelationshipwith,24inwhey,91

Microbialdiversity,20,23Milkfermenteddrinksvs.,45formakingyogurt,86

Milkkefir,79,88,89,92Milkkefirgrains(búlgaros),79,88distinguishedfromcoagulatedmilk,90FruitJuiceSodas,135Orangina,134pulquewith,175usedtoculturecoconutwater,coconutmilk,fruitjuices,andnutmilks,90

Minerals,63Mintleaves,72,73,75Minttea,103Molasses,62,63,74,96,187Molds,39,40,78Molecules,36Monkeys,28Monosaccharides,39,101,114,140Mormons,18Motherofvinegar,79Mourby,Adrian,198Muscovado,62

Nelson,Mark,32NewYorkTimesarticleonkombucha,101NourishingTraditions(Fallon),92,134Nubianbones,31Nutmilks,milkkefirgrainsusedtoculture,90Nutrients,14,15,23,43,44,184Nutrition,15

Oakleaves,120,122Oilofbergamot,103

Oligosaccharides,39Oolongtea,103Opioids,12Orangejuice,134,135Orangina,134OranginaMargarita,196

Panelasugar,62,96,136,178,181Paracelsus,44Passoverseder,33Pathogenicmicrobes,18,43,44Pearcider,154,158Pearsoda,158Perry,154,158Personalcareproducts,17Petiot,Fernand,193Phosphoricacid,21,142Phyticacid,44,63Pickles,68,120Piloncillosugar,62,96,172,181PiñaColada,22PineappleKhadi,143SweetLassi,70Tepache,178TepacheHighball,187tipsandtricks,179

Pineapplecorer,179Pineappletepachevinegar,74Plainfull-fatyogurtbacterialstarters,80Doogh,72forfive-minuterecipes,68formakingwhey,91SaltyorSavoryLassi,71SweetLassi,69wheyrecipe,91

Planck,Max,16Plasticcontainers,55,82forAppleCiderSoda,155bottlingkombuchain,107,113forfruitjuicesodas,135forGingerBeer,150forHibiscusSoda,129forPulque,175

Plasticsiphonpumps,56Plasticspigots,57Pollan,Michael,24Polysaccharides,39

Pomegranatejuice,197Posca,31Powderedsugar,63Preservatives,44,65,141,154Pricklypear,131,176PrisonWine,162Probioticsupplementpills,43Processedfoods,14,20Proof,184Prosecco,198Proteins,38Psilocybinmushrooms,29Pulque,142,172Pulquerías,172

TheQuarterlyReviewofBiology,28Quincejuice,158Quinoa,141,146RadishBrine,122

Raisins,96,144Rapadurasugar,96Raspberries,132Rawapplecidervinegar,23,68,74,157Rawdelicious,125Rawfruitjuice,fermenteddrinksvs.,45Rawhoneydissolvinginwarmwater,68Mead,164SaltyFermentedLemonade/Limeade,73SweetLassi,69Switchel,74

RawmilkMilkKefir,88wheymadewith,92

Rawsauerkraut,68Rawsugar,62Rawwheatberries,146RealFoodFermentation,68Realfoods,14Redwine,189Refrigeration,58,74,82,92,97,113,119Regulators,offood,16Rejuvelac,146Religion,fermentationand,33Rhizomes,148Riceferments,40RiceWine,166Ricewineyeastball,166

Rooibostea,103Rootbeer,21,142,148Rosemary,118,164Rum,186Ryebread,144

Saccharine,62Safetyandsanitationequipment,58SaldeChapulin(grasshoppersalt),187SaldeGuano(wormsalt),187,194,195SaldeHormiga(antsalt),187Saliva,human,141SaltyFermentedLemonadeorLimeade,73Sangria,Kombucha,189Sassafrasrootbark,148Sauerkraut,21,44,68,123,125Sauerkrautjuice,195SCOBY,79.SeealsoWaterkefirgrainsJun,115kombucha,104,107,109starters,79fromstore-boughtkombucha,111

Sealedcontainers,82Secondaryfermentation(2f),56,82,89beer,142CoconutSodaKefir,136FlavoredKombucha,112GrapeSoda,130SparklingCountryWine,168

Sekanjabin,75Shanghaiyeastball,166Shōchū,40Shrub,23Simplesugars,39,140Singapore,102Siphoning,155,159,161Siphonpumps,55,59SodaChanh,73Sodas,127appealoffermenteddrinksimitating,21CoconutSodaKefir,136fermenteddrinksvs.,45FruitJuiceSodas,135FruitySoda,131GrapeSoda,130HibiscusSoda,128kimchi,124Lemongina/Limegina,132Orangina,134

Soju,40

Sourdoughstarter,144,145Soylent,14SoylentGreen(film),15SparklingCountryWine,168SparklingwaterDoogh,72fermentedvegetablejuiceswith,68kimchisoda,124Switchelservedwith,74

Sparklingwine,198Spearmintleaf,148Spices.SeeHerbsandspicesSpinach,125Spoilage,offermentedfoods,18Sportsdrinks,fermenteddrinksvs.,45StandardsAmericanDiet(SAD),20Staranise,178Starches,140Startersbacterial,80explained,79GingerBug,83SCOBY,79sourdough,145wheyusedas,87,91yeast,80

Stickyrice,166StonedApetheory,28Strainers,53,90Strainingdairyyogurt,92milkkefir,90waterkefirgrains,90,97,134

Streptomycesmicrobe,32Sucanat,62Sucralose,62Sucrose,36,39,114,140Sugar.SeeCanesugar;GranulatedsugarSuperBowlcommercials,12Supplements,probiotic,43Sweeteners.SeealsoindividualtypesofsweetenersforCoconutSodaKefir,136forkombucha,100forSaltyFermentedLemonadeorLimeade,73

SweetLassi,69Switchel,21,23,74

Tannins,120

Teafermenteddrinksvs.,45usedforkombucha,103

Tepache,22,40,80Caliente,188recipe,178TepacheHighball,187TepacheSmash,189Ur-PiñaColada,186

TequilaAppleCiderMargarita,197GingerAlealaMexicana,199OranginaMargarita,196

Tetracycline,32Thucydides,30Tíbicos.SeeWaterkefir(tíbicos)Tlachiquero,173,174Toolsandequipmentforbottling,56filteredwater,61flyswatters,61fruitflytraps,61jars,50forkombucha,57kombucha,continuous-brewsetup,108measuring,48forsafetyandsanitation,58storagebottles/jars,55sugar,62

Traditionalsoju,40Triclosan,59Tulips,24Turbinadosugar,62,96Turmeric,71,852f(secondaryfermentation).SeeSecondaryfermentation(2f)Unfilteredfermenteddrinks,43,184Unfilteredvinegar,74,75Unrefinedsugar,63Ur-PiñaColada,186U.S.customaryunits,48

Vanillabean/vanillaextract,89,148Vegetabledrinks,117BeetKvass,118CucumberPickleBrine,120FermentedGreenJuice,125JuicedFermentedVegetables,123KimchiSoda,124RadishBrine,122

Vegetablefermentationstarters,80

Vermouth,31Vessels.SeealsoBottles;Masonjarsandlidsbottlinginserving-sized,82forKombucha,57Masonjarsandlids,50old,“teaching”thenew,36safetyandsanitationforusing,58sealing,81forstorage,55

VilladePatosbrandofmagueysap,174VinegarAppleCiderVinegar,155drinkingwaterwith,31makinghomemade,95notneedingastarter,79watered-down,31whentousehomemadevs.store-bought,95

Viruses,12Vitamins,14,43,155VodkaGingerAleCranberryVodka,199KimchiBloodyMary,193

“Waronbacteria,”24Waterforbrewingteaforkombucha,104chlorinein,61drinkingtoomuch,20drinkingwithvinegar,31fermenteddrinksvs.,45filtering,62,104impuritiesin,61mixingwithwine,31removingimpuritiesfrom,61

Waterkefir(tíbicos),79,140GrapeSoda,130recipe,96

Waterkefirgrains,96,136Weightgain/loss,41Wheat,78,141,172Wheatberries,146Wheatbran,143Wheycheesemakingand,91Lemongina/Limegina,132Orangina,134recipe,91Root(s)Beer,148

usedasastarter,87,91Whitevinegar,58,59,75WHOModelListofEssentialMedicines,32Wildfermenteddrinks,184.SeealsoFermentedfoodsanddrinksWildyeastgrainbeers,141Wildyeastsairand,80beerand,141benefitsofhome-fermenteddrinksand,18BerryWine,159sourdoughstarterand,145wineand,31

Wine(s)additivesin,153AppleCiderBellini(Cellini),198beervs.,140BerryWine,159CountryWine,161fruit,155KombuchaSangria,189mixingwithwater,31PrisonWine/Hooch,162RiceWine,166roleinJudaictradition,33SparklingCountryWine,168vinegarmadefrom,95

Winebottles,56,82,95,159,161Wineyeast,159Wintergreenleaf,148“Woodalcohol,”185Woodenbarrel,57Woodspigots,57WorldHealthOrganization(WHO),32,41Wormsalt,187,194,195“Wormwood,”31“TheWorstMistakeintheHistoryoftheHumanRace”(Diamond),30

Yeast(s).SeealsoDryyeast;Microbesalcoholand,40,78,184AppleCidersedimentand,155beervs.wineand,140defined,39explained,78genetically-modified,18kombuchaand,99,100nutrientsin,43SCOBYand,79,104starchesand,140wild,18,80,140,142,184wildbeersand,141

Yeastreaction,40Yeaststarters,80Yogurt.SeealsoPlainfull-fatyogurtkefirand,88microbialdiversityand,23recipe,86starternecessaryfor,80strainingdairy,92

TOTHEANCESTORSANDTRADITIONSOFMEXICOANDTHEUNITEDSTATES,ANDTOWORKINGTOGETHER.

ANDTOINDIGENOUSPEOPLESEVERYWHERE—MAYWEALLGROKYOURWISDOMBEFOREIT’STOOLATE.

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