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fashion magazine
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Business and Art in Fashion Magazines: Two Separate, but Equal Components Necessary to the Development, CreaDon, and
Success of an issue.
What are Magazines?! • Magazines are vehicles for interpretaDon, entertainment, advocacy, & service and their creaDon is a business decision.
• It is crucial for a magazine to have editorial quality, but acumen too. Meaning the magazine’s editorial quality needs to be unique, have value, merit, but even more so sharpness, wit, and insight– especially fashion magazine.
Two Major Components
• That divide magazine staffs into two major groups: The Business component/side & The Art/CreaDve component/side.
• The Business – AdverDsing, MarkeDng, CirculaDon, DistribuDon, and ProducDon
• The Art – Content, ArDcles, Artwork, Photos, & Design
Break down the Two Major Components
• Divided into 4 areas – Editorial – content, features, illustraDon, from cover to last page
– AdverDsing sales – selling ad-‐space, markeDng and promoDng the Title
– CirculaDon-‐ aUracDng/keeping readers (newsstand buyers and regular subscribers)
– ProducDon-‐ prinDng/binding and delivering mag.
Who’s Running the Show?
• A staff and their names listed in the masthead.
• Specific Dtles designate a specific role in shaping and developing an issue.
– vary from magazine to magazine. • Example Vogue & Foam
– Large global publicaDon – Small naDonal publicaDon
Business PosiDons • President/CEO
• Publisher
• CirculaDon Director
• MarkeDng Director • Public RelaDons Director/PromoDon Director
• AdverDsing Sales Director
• Assistant Publisher/Business Manager
• Research Director
• AdverDsing Sales RepresentaDve
CreaDve PosiDons • Editor-‐in-‐Chief/ Editor
• Managing Editor
• ExecuDve Editor • Fashion Editor
• CreaDve Director
• Art Director
• Senior Editor
• Associate Editor/Assistant Editor
• Copy Editor
• Online Editor
• Staff Writer
• Photographer
• ContribuDng Editor
• Editorial Assistant/Fact Checker
• Freelancer
Editor-‐in-‐Chief • Most importantly “A successful Magazine is characterized by a strong editor who
supplies its central thrust. There is no room for weakness, uncertainty, in defining what the editor does. To some extent, then, everyone else’s job descripDon follows.”
• Is the most important role
– Must be successful managing both creaDve & business sides. • Increasingly the posiDon has markeDng implicaDons too.
– Building relaDonships and creaDng brand extensions • May emphasize the visionary aspects, others focus on being managers, and
others see markeDng roles as of primary importance. • Need to combine all three funcDons.
The Business Plan • Business plan is important – Editors + writers + designers + publishers + Ad sales people = Need a business plan
– The magazine’s economic foundaDon
• The goal is for a magazine to earn more than it spends, but it has to spend money to earn it too.
• Becoming one of the huge employers and users of goods and services, thus pumping billions of dollars back into the economy.
Average Expenses: $58.7 Mill
Expenses
AdverDsing $6.6 mill.
SubscripDon $14.6 mill.
Single Copy $4.6 mill.
Editorial $7.1 mill.
ProducDon $12.1 mill.
DistribuDon $8 mill.
AdministraDve $5.5 mill.
Average Revenue: $70.3 mill.
Revenue
Net AdverDsing Revenue $38.2 mill
Gross SubscripDon Revenue $22.6 mill.
Gross Single Copy Revenue $9.1 mill.
List Rental Revenue $354,000
Profit
• Average Revenue: $70.3 mill. -‐ Average Expenses: $58.7 Mill = $11.6 mill.
• Just an idea. Varies from magazine to magazine and individuals Dtles every year.
• Need to spend money to earn money.
Business Plan
• A solid business plan is important – Needs to define the product (magazine) through the editorial philosophy.
– Clear strategy and tacDcs – MarkeDng plan & Profitability are the primary economic planning secDons of a magazines business plan.
MarkeDng Includes:
• AdverDsing and PromoDon
• CirculaDon and PromoDon
• Frequency: how frequently published and consistently published. • AdverDsing Rates
• CirculaDon Rates: How much an issue costs and depends on reader income, state of the economy, discounts, adverDsing to editorial raDo, & supply and demand.
• SubscripDons and Memberships
• DistribuDon – troubles, because the cost increases decade aoer decade.
ExecuDve Summary of Profitability
• It is important for a magazine to be aware of finances and operaDng costs, to conDnue to build and successful magazine. – Understand where there will be a loss – Understand where they should cut corners and invest money else where.
– What is needed and what is lacking for profitability.
• AdverDsing: is a product promoted directly to people who (may) want a certain product and can afford it. – It’s effecDve markeDng
– A vehicle • Readers = potenDal market & specific demographic
• $13 mill – 2007 $8 mill -‐2011
• AdverDsing effecDveness • An art/form of placing ads
• Full color • 2 page spread – common for fashion editorials
• Biggest Adverts – 1.92 bill – cosmeDcs and toileUries – 1.79 bill. – drugs and remedies
– 1.78 bill. – apparel and accessories
• Top magazine publishers $14 mill. – $51 mill. – Time Inc.
– Conde Nast – Hearst CorporaDon – HacheUe Filipacchi – Meredith CorporaDon
• $ from adverDsing = Revenue for the magazine – Known as adverDsing expenditure
• AdverDsing & Editorial Staff separated – Edit-‐ plans and develops the magazine, then gives sales people the informaDon they need to sell the magazine
• Adverts want features • Content determined by editors
• Blurring the lines between the informaDon between editors & adverts is beneficial.
Magazine Needs Personality
• Like people a magazines have personaliDes that reflect their philosophies, energy, wisdom, and wit. The cover is a magazine’s statement of it’s idenDty, as the following example demonstrate.
CreaDve Aspect
• Magazines, especially Fashion Magazines need an element of surprise. In my opinion they are the most alluring and interesDng mediums out there.
• There is a process and specificity when it comes to creaDng a fashion magazines.
• For example Alexey Brodovitch (Art Director of Bazaar from 1934-‐1958) shared the pages/layout needed to have musical feeling and a rhythm that would carry the reader through the magazine like a series of dance steps– a tango here, a cha-‐cha there, with a waltz, or a polka for variety.
• The magazine design comes from the editorial mission – It is created with a clear understanding of the magazines mission.
Vogue’s Mission • The foundaDon of Vogue’s leadership and authority is the brand’s unique role as a cultural barometer for a global audience.
Vogue places fashion in the context of culture and the world we live in — how we dress, live and socialize; what we eat, listen to and watch; who leads and inspires us. Vogue immerses itself in fashion, always leading readers to what will happen next. Thought-‐provoking, relevant and always influenAal, Vogue defines the culture of fashion.
• For 118 years, Vogue has been America’s cultural barometer, puIng fashion in the context of the larger world we live in-‐ how we dress, live, socialize; what we eat, listen to, watch; who leads and inspires us.From its beginnings to today, three central principles have set Vogue apart: a commitment to visual genius, investment in storytelling that puts women at the center of the culture, and a selecAve, opAmisAc editorial eye.Vogue’s story is the story of women, of culture, of what is worth knowing and seeing, of individuality and grace, and of the steady power of earned influence. For millions of women each month, Vogue is the eye of the culture, inspiring and challenging them to see things differently, in both themselves and the world.
Teen Vogue
• Our mission statement for Teen Vogue is that “Influence Starts Here.” When we put the pages of the magazine together we want girls to look at them and WANT to be that girl on the page. We are a source for style, trends and fashion with a young view point, but with the elevated and sophisDcated touch that the Vogue brand represents.
• Influence starts here.
Young trendseUers everywhere know there’s only one authenDc source for emerging fashion, beauty and pop culture delivered with the sophisDcaDon of the Vogue brand.
Foam Magazine • Welcome to Foam Magazine, the naDon's premier female publicaDon dedicated to celebraDng beach/surf
culture and its posiDve influence on fashion, art, music and acDon sports.The only publicaDon of its kind, foam praises the uniqueness and strength of individuals whose roots are surf inspired. We do this by inviDng our readers into the fascinaDng world of athletes, designers, arDsts, musicians, photographers, celebriDes and our reader community itself.From enDcing photo journals, profiles, and in-‐depth interviews to cuung-‐edge fashion, health/fitness tools, real beauty Dps and learn-‐to-‐ride instrucDonal features, foam readers are encouraged to make posiDve changes in all aspects of their lives, and to share their experiences and life stories with other beach-‐loving females.Foam captures this exciDng essence of the beach lifestyle and presents it through various digital iniDaDves and targeted distribuDon programs, engaging its community of readers via events, the web, and print, making foam an effecDve and smart markeDng vehicle for brands connecDng with young women on a core, grassroots level.
Nylon Mag
• Nylon is a fashion magazine for college educated young adults. The magazine was first published in 1999; to provide informaDon fashion, music and beauDful for young women. I also like how Nylon bridges the gap between teen and adult fashion magazines with more of an emphasis on music and film. The average age of the reader is 24.6, which is rather young compared to most fashion magazine.
• Since its launch in 1999, NYLON magazine has provided a unique voice, style, and perspecDve to legions of intelligent, hip young women. An authority on fashion, music, and beauty, NYLON has been called “a force to be reckoned with,” delivering fresh editorial with groundbreaking photography and design.
Needs to be a Balance & Harmony
With what is being read and the graphics/photographs that are used.
With the development of technology we not only read text, but read images and typography. needs to all be cohesive and flow.
There needs to be a visual idenDty that resonates with readers and not bore them.
Readers either like… or…
• She either wants to be soothed by uncluUered, color-‐coordinated pages of a… decepDvely simple room arrangements and perfectly posed fashions
• Example
• Challenged by the unconvenDonal perspecDve of cuung-‐edge layouts, street-‐smart autudes, and fold out arDcles.
• Example
Art Director Needs to be aware of • Eye Movement – catching the readers aUenDon
• The Grid-‐ columns and margins per page • Typography – primary visual component in the communicaDon of words
– Used for the body copy, Dtles, and cutlines. It’s an art form and allows the musical expression of words
• Color – Black&White – typical, legible, choice for large blocks. – Color – provides idenDficaDon, creates associaDon, and aUracts aUenDon.
• Design Principals – Coincides with magazines mission – Needs to have unity
– Balance – natural & contained – ProporDon – Sequence – readers prefer a paUern & consistency
– Contrast –
• Needs to integrate words & pictures
ProducDon Process
Break of Book