Ecology solutions2

1 Ecology Solutions / SustainabilityDyStar Textile Services

© DyStar Turkey - Istanbul www.DyStar.com

Ecology Solutions / Sustainability

Serdar Demircioğlu



Vision statement



DyStar sustainability leadership commitment

• 1974 ETAD founding member

• 2004 DyStar commitment to keep hazardous

chemicals out of textile supply chain

• 2008 Bluesign system partner

• 2011 Publication of 1st DyStar Group Carbon Report and 1st

Sustainability Report

• 2010 Textile Exchange member

• 2011 ZDHC group Technical Advisory Committee member

• 2012 Sustainable Apparel Coalition member

• 2014 GreenScreen system partner



Focus Chemical management in supply chain

• 2004 AFIRM

• 2004 RAPEX

• 2006-2018 REACH

• 2006 UNEP Chemicals in Products

• 2006 OIA Eco Index Chemical Management

Framework

• 2011 Sustainable Apparel Coalition

• 2011 Greenpeace Detox Campaign

• 2012 ZDHC Roadmap



Greenpeace Detox Campaign

Hazardous Chemicals Control

Greenpeace are working with the major Brands, Retailers and their Industry

partners to eliminate hazardous chemicals from the textile supply chain

The focus being on chemicals that are

- Bio-accumulative

- Persistent

- Toxic



The Road Ahead

Chemical suppliers are working with Brands & Retailers to

meet the Zero Discharge challenge















Catwalk Detox Rating

Catwalk Detox

rating

Companies /

Brands

Greenpeace judgment[2] Disclose

discharge data on

online platform

Detox commitment

outside ZDHC[3]

ZDHC members[4] sinceL

ea

de

rs

Benetton case studies, restricted substance list, APEO

report„has shown its true, trend-setting colours“

x 2013

(Sisley, Playlife)

C&A PFCs elimination ahead of schedule,“walking the

Detox talk, matching its words with concrete

actions“

X 2011*

Coop immediate phase out of PFC and APEO“remains

true to its winning form, staying ahead of the game

when it comes to toxic-free fashion“

X 2013

Uniqlo (Fast Retailing) “has proven itself to be anything but casual when it

comes to Detox”

X 2013

Esprit “has the potential to become a true Detox leader” X 2012

G-Star Raw “on the road to becoming a Detox hero“” X 2012

H&M Proactive plan to phase out by 2014, ahead of ZDHC

schedule„matching its commitment with fashion-

forward action.“

X 2011*

Inditex (Zara, Massimo

Dutti)

“Inditex is walking the talk and proving itself to be a

Detox trendsetter”

X 2012

Levi Strauss & Co. “Levi’s is following through on its promise to go

forth and Detox.“ ”

X 2012

Limited

Brands(Victoria´s Secret,

La Senza)

“is revealing itself to be a fashion conscious Detox

leader”

x 2013

Mango proactive in PFC elimination plan,„ acting as a

Detox trendsetter leading the way to fashion

without pollution“

x 2012

Marks & Spencer proactive in PFC and APEO elimination, case study

on substitution of phthalates in

childrenwear,„taking important first steps down the

road to toxic-free fashion“

x 2012



Catwalk Detox Rating

Catwalk Detox

rating

Companies /

Brands

Greenpeace judgment[2] Disclose discharge

data on online

platform

Detox commitment

outside ZDHC[3]

ZDHC members[4]

since

Gre

en

-w

ash

ers

LiNing “Lack of action shows significant credibility gap” 2011*

adidas „adidas presents itself as a fashion-forward leader. In

reality, adidas has become an obstacle to progress by

lowering the level of Detox ambition“

2011*

Nike “The company has no credible plan to eliminate priority

hazardous chemicals“.

2011*

La

gg

ard

s

Giorgio Armani No further detailed assessment, according to

Greenpeace“uncommitted toxic addicts that refuse to take

responsibility for their toxic trail and have yet to make a

credible, individual Detox commitment.“

Bestseller

Only the Brave(Diesel)

Gap (Banana Republic,

Old Navy,..)

2013

Metersbonwe

PVH (Calvin Klein,

Tommy Hilfiger)

2013

Vancl

Not

rate

d Jack Wolfskin 2012

New Balance 2013

Athletic Shoe



Where are the others?

It should be noted that many of the world´s largest fashion retailers are not

members of ZDHC, nor have they committed to Detox. The ZDHC / Detox brands have exposed themselves to a critical review, but they represent only a fraction of the total fashion and apparel market, while many global players, discounters and local players have not committed and are not included either in the Detox catwalk.The ones who have committed did so

after Greenpeace have put enormous

pressure on them. But there is still a long

way to go to reach the world´s largest

fashion & apparel companies.



Where are the others?

The missing ones include retailers / brands such as Walmart, Target, Macy´s, Woolworth, Kohl´s, JC Penney, Liz Claiborne, Nordstrom, Polo

Ralph Lauren, Prada, Dolce & Gabbana, LVMH (Bvlgari, Louis Vuitton) , Burberry , Brooks Brothers, Land´s End, , Peek & Cloppenburg, Hugo

Boss, Karstadt, Otto, Tschibo, Marc O’Polo, Topshop, Topman, Abercrombie & Fitch (Hollister), Primark or Forever 21, just to mention a few.



Road Map to Zero

Focused 11 Chemical Family Groups



Control input chemicals



A single, coherent system for new and existing chemicals with the following

three new elements:

Registration (30,000 substances traded in EU; 100,000 on EINECS)

Evaluation (5,000 substances)

Authorisation (1,350 substances)

CHemical Substances

• Protection of human health & the environment (SVHC)

• Maintenance and enhancement of the competitiveness of the EU chemical

industry

• Increased transparency

• Promotion of non-animal testing

• Conformity with EU international obligations

EU Chemicals Policy - REACH



Oekotex - a key driver in eco textiles since the 1990’s

Eco Labels



Criteria for fabric specifications, dyes, chemicals and performance

Oeko Tex Standard 100

Prohibition of azo dyes that can split to form carcinogenic amines (cat. 1 or 2)

other carcinogenic dyes

dyes that can cause allergies

organic chlorine carriers for dyeing

flame-retardant finishes

biocidal finishes

Limit values for

heavy metals (extractable)

pesticides

pH value

formaldehyde

preservatives

Phthalates, certain organic tin compounds (TBT, DBT)

Fastness ratings

Water, perspiration, rubbing.

plus saliva and perspiration fastness (for baby clothing)



Grew out of national organic programs in USA, UK, Germany,

Japan

Expertise mainly in agriculture, not textile processing

Initial focus on input control and auditing of process steps to

maintain “purity” of the organic fibre

Only products approved for GOTS by certifiers can be used in

processing of organic cotton to GOTS standard

Includes very basic requirements on water and energy

consumption, wastewater treatment, at the factory

Main activities – promoting concept to retailers/brands, auditing

factories applying for GOTS certification and approving dyes and

chemicals for GOTS

Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS Version 4.0)



Bluesign Technologies was founded in Switzerland in 2000

Initial focus was on input control and process optimisation, not output

testing

No restrictions on fibre – in fact to date has focussed on synthetic

fibres

System Includes benchmarking on water, energy consumption,

wastewater treatment, health & safety in the factory

Main activities – signing up brands (mainly in high tech or outdoor

clothing sector) and auditing their suppliers Patagonia, The North

Face, Helly Hansen are some of the members of the system.

DyStar joined bluesign platform in 2008

Bluesign



All major Brands and Retailers have ever developing RSL’s

Restricted Substance Lists – Brands and retailers

• Communication of eco requirements/specifications along the supply chain

• Lack of understanding of ecology issues from supplier perspective

• Damage to corporate reputation, investor confidence and public trust

• Delivery delays or non-conforming material leading to stock-outs

• Testing costs to check article conformity with eco specification



econfidence in processing



We refer to it as the “triple bottom line” or

“The three spheres of sustainability”

Sustainable Textile Processing



The key objectives remain….

Support local/global requirements

Eliminating environmental hazards

Improving energy and water efficiencies

Cutting pollution and waste

Restricted Substance Lists

Chemical handling and residue

Eco fibres and eco processing

Sustainability requirements



Quality

Achievability

Fastness

Performance

Cost: Textile production is price-driven.

Competitiveness is vital

Speed:

Quick response to fast changing fashion

More palettes per year

more seasonal colors per palette

Shorter lead times

Brand Integrity

Image

Reputation

Trust

Ecology

Organic cotton

REACH, RSL’s etc

Innovation

Product Differentiation

Special Effects

Supply Chain

Sustainable

Resilient

Agile

Key Issues for the Global Textile Supply Chain



Controlling chemical use in the supply chain



6 Steps for a more sustainable supply chain

1. Map your supply chain

2. Communicate expectations

3. Baseline supplier performance

4. Develop training and capacity building programs

5. Drive performance improvement

6. Join industry collaboration

Source : Wollmuth & Ivanova, Greenbiz.com, Jan 2014



Set the bar high



Two Folded Sustainability StrategyAnnual

Sustainability Report and

Carbon Footprint report in

accordance with the

Global Reporting Initiative

(GRI®)

Reduce our

customers’

impact

Sustainable product &

process innovation

Sustainable services

Product stewardship

Reduce our

operational impact

Established

sustainability structure

Measure environmental

performance

Implement emission

reduction strategies

DyStar Group Carbon and Group Sustainability Report since 2011



Low Impact Chemicals for Textile Processing

As a trend leading company supporting the ZDHC

group member retailers, DyStar is committed to

sustainable chemistry. We research and invest in new

products and processes to enable our customers to

produce low-impact consumer goods meeting the

highest enviromental and quality standards in the most

cost effective way.

With a wide range of GreenScreen, bluefinder listed

and GOTS approved Laundry Chemicals, we

provide a sustainable solution for beatiful,trendy

denim wash effects.



DyStar – Your Global Partner

DyStar know-how and products

help you make a difference to your business.

Contact us for more details, or visit us at www.DyStar.com

Thank you

Documents

Ecology solutions2