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Deep Water Soloing in DalmatiaDeep water soloing over the years has become one very popular way for dalmatian climbers to do a good training without sweating due to high temperatures in the summer time Here in Dalmatia we are blessed to have who-knows-how-many locations for practicing this way of climbing since this is a country ldquowith 1000 islandsrdquo and interesting thing is that almost every island has vertical or overhanging cliffs on itrsquos south sideVery important thing to say about Dalmatian deep water soloing is that we have very friendly sea with practicly no danger from it We have red so many articles from all over the world especially Mallorca and Dorset and main problem for people over there are jellyfish which may become very dangerous for climbers or any humans Adriatic sea doesnrsquot have so many jellyfish and the one we do have are so rear and not so danger-ous We do not have dangerous sharks or any other life treating danger living in the Adriatic

Short history of DWS in CroatiaFirst tracks of deep water solo in Croatia started in mid 90rsquos in Split town region local area called Sustipan where Dalmatian climbers came and saw overhanging cliffs and immediately started to climb Interesting thing is that traditionally we climbed barefooted without chalk Because of this you needed some period of adaptation specially for your feets who would become bloody very often It was brutal Only beginners were wearing climbing shoes until they adopted Itrsquos so funny to remem-ber those days After Big up production movie Psihobloc DWS started to become must-do-thing here and it started to develop in lotrsquos of ways First we have realized that without climbing shoes we are limited with hard routes So we started to use them and it was a relief The hard-est routes in the region were instantly repeated(we are talking about grades up to 7b+) and we were ready for new harder and higher places Today we have climbers who are practicing only deep water soloing dur-ing the summer They are opening new routes exploring and develop-ing new areas preparing topos and waiting for strong climbers to come again Today we are climbing with chalk so we are even preparing bolts under the specific lines just above the sea surface so climbers can swim to it get out and dry put some chalk and go It is a different story and we find it much more challenging this way

2005 best world climbers came to Croatia and went to Kornati archi-pelago (the best DWS area in Dalmatia) They spend couple of days climbing in National park and they succeeded to climb the hardest DWS route in the world until then Ring of fire 8b+ This event has been re-corded and distributed all over the world known as climbing movie DEP-THCHARGE This was the spark that started DWS revolution in Croatia 2006 we have been visited by World champion Tomas Mrazek who also tried deep water solo for the first timeHere we bring you some of the most popular Deep Water Solo areas here in Dalmatia

Locations for DWS in Dalmatia

Sector Big Ciovo

1 Sustipan - Split area2 Katalinka - Split area2 Kasjuni - Split area3 Ciovo

4 Hvar5 Vis6 Kornati Archipelago - National Park

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SPLIT AREASUSTIPANSUSTIPAN is the oldest DWS area in Croatia It is located in Split near the city center Cliffs are mainly 6-10m high and the routes are usually overhanging (or very overhanging)with large holds Right now there are about 20 routes up to 7c For DWS on Sustipan you dont necessarily need a boat because it is possible to reach the cliffs from the neighbor-ing beach How to get to Sustipan DWS areaSustipan is placed on the West side of main harbour of city of Split To get there you donrsquot need a boat you can get there by the foot for just 10 minutes from the center From main promenade you just follow the road which lead to the west side of the har-bour There is ACY marina you will pass by and you will get to beautiful park called Sus-tipan Once this was cemetery but today is great place to chill out You can find here some slack liners in the summer The crag

Tomas Mrazek Project Sustipan

EUROPE

DALMATIA

CROATIA

SPLITis just below the park and you can get there easily by the pool and passing by the caffegrave on the beachIt is the oldest and most popular DWS area in Split and there is not to many potential for new lines the best has been already climbed

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Sustipan Split

Sustipan SplitIFranceschi Psihotest 6a Sustipan Split

Sector BSector A

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Sector A1 Melita 6c+ 9m FA JPurko2 Project 9m3 Psiho test 6a 9m FA IFranceschi4 Meje blues livo 6a+ 8m FA SMateic5 Meje blues 6a+ 8m FA SMateic6 Meje blues desno 6a+ 8m FA SMateic7 Roll the dice 6c+ 9m FA IFranceschi8 Norijev problem 6c 9m FA IFranceschiA Dalmatina 6b+ 100m FA IFranceschi

Sector B1 Laganica 5c 7m FA DPiccini2 As 6a 7m FA DPiccini3 Srecica 6b+ 7m FA DPiccini4 Golubinjak 6a 7m FA IFranceschi5 Nesrecica 6c 7m FA DPiccini6 Zabluda 7a 7m FA IFranceschi7 Skuzaj Dani 6c+ 7m FA BKoracak8 Grmi camuga i beraci pamuka 7a 7m FA IMihalj9 Waka waka 7b 7m FA LTrumbic10 Cosa nostraSopranosi 7a+9m FA BKoracak11 Svadbeni uspon 7c 9m FA LTrumbic12 Hrvatska 7a+ 8m FA IFranceschi13 Za stari tocak 7a 9m FA IFranceschi14 Los prsuto 7a 9m FA TMrazek15 Witness the fatness 6c+ FA DSupeA Norijeva precka 7a 20m Traverse FA IFranceschi B Ten years after 7b 20m Travesre FA IFranceschiA+B Adrenalina 7b+ 40m Traverse FA DPiccini

ISupic Skalinada 6a Ciovo

Sector A Sector B

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SPLIT KATALINKAKATALINKA area is very small deep water solo area with just a dozen routes but very popular since itrsquos very easy to reach it from the city harbour The wall is not high so itrsquos very nice for beginners with easy grades tooHow to get thereKatalinka is placed on the east side of the main city harbour so It is easi-est to explain how to reach it from there To get here you wonrsquot need the boat itrsquos reachable by foot only ten minutes of walking from the Split center You just walk from the ferry station towards east follow the road which slightly goes uphill until you donrsquot find yourself on the bridge where from you can see main city beach Bacvice That hill you are standing on is Katalinka where on itrsquos south side lies our wall for deep water soloPotential is not something this wall offers All good lines has been climbed and there is no room for moreNoteNot every part of this wall is possible to climb due to very shal-

low water or very large boulders inside of the water Check the depth before climbingWarning During the morning tides the sea depth is getting shallow

KATALINKA1 Nekakvo lagano vino 5b 4m2 Winesweeper 5c 4m3 Gaysampwines 5c 5m4 Rupe vina 4c 4m5 Adijabata vinskog plina 5b 4m6 Klingon blood wine 6a+ 6m7 Solo for Matea 6a 7m8 Ko rano rani vise vina grabi 6b+c 9m9 Lose vino 6b+ 9m10 Kutjevacka Grasevina 6b 9m11 Skenderbeg 6b+ 9m FA BKoracak12 Pijani brod 7a 9m13 Loyhka vini 6b 9m14 Wine leaching 6a+ 5m15 Bacchus 6a+ 8m16 Warm up the wine 4c 4mA Dalmacijavino 6c 20m Traverse

Katalinka

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SPLIT KASJUNIKASJUNI area is very nice and popular city beach few km west from Sustipan It lies below Santine stine very popular sport climbing area The wall itself is very friendly for beginners in deep water solo Not too high lots of holds and very good structure of the rock and easy grades We definitely recommend this place

APPROACHThe wall is very easy to approach from the road which goes West at Mar-jan peninsula It is possible to reach the wall by swimming from Kasjuni beach or walk on the top of the wall from the main road on the junc-tion for Kasjuni beach down to the South following dirt road for just few minutes The wall lies spreading between the beach and Vila Dalmacija which is known in the history as Titorsquos Vila area where is forbidden to swim

NoteNot every part of this wall is possible to climb due to very shallow water or very large boulders inside of the water Check the depth before climbing

KASJUNI1 Stup 5a 4m FA DPiccini2 Plata 5c 7m FA DPiccini3 Brid 6a 7m FA DPiccini4 Pukotina 5c 7m FA DPiccini5 Kaktus 5b 5m FA DPiccini

Kasjuni

6 Veranda 5a 6m FA DPiccini7 Dalmatinka 5b 10m FA DPiccini8 Project 10m9 Šentada 6b 10m FA DPiccini10 Bunika 5c 10m FA DPiccini

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DWS at Kasjuni Area

VPiccini Skalinada 6a Ciovo

TPiccini Veranda 5a Kasjuni

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CIOVOCIOVO is very close to Split area with a great DWS potential Develop-ment of DWS started 2005 and there are just about 110 routes (5c-7c) to climb there Routes are usually much higher (up to 20m) than on Sustipan area and climbing is more serious and dangerous Certain sec-tors are impossible to climb without chalk Possibilities for hard routes is enormousThere is 12 sectors so far and interesting thing about them is that every one is different from the other by the height rock forma-tion holds and color so you feel like visiting completely different area There is a big number of projects here on Ciovo and we canrsquot wait for some strong climbers to come and climb some of those

How to reach CiovoAl do it is very probably the best deep water solo area in the region it is very hard to reach it without a boat and even if you get on the south side of the island the distance between sectors is to large to swim By car you can get to Gospa od Prizidnice monastery which lies on the south side of the island just by the vertical cliffs of Ciovo and you can have there great day of swimming in the crystal clear sea with beautiful colors

NoteOur company Avantura doo is organizing deep water solo trips Please do contact us for details

Sector Granit Ciovo

SPLIT AREA

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SECTOR CRVENE STINE1 Time out 6c 8m FA SWhittall2 Be strong 7a+ 8m FA SWhittall3 Be sure 7a 8m FA SWhittall4 Up up and away 6c+ 8m FA SWhittall

5 Into the blue 6c 8m FA SWhittall6 Dave Jones Locker want you 6c 8m FA SWhittall7 Fish food 5c 8m FA SWwhittall

Sector CRVENE STINE

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SECTOR TRIANGLE1 Blue Fin tuna 5b FA SWhittall2 Hot tuna 5b FA SWhittall3 Sword fish 6b FA SWhittall4 Skyhook 6b FA SWhittall5 Magic moments 5a FA SWhittall6 Moment of madness 7a FA SWhittall7 Donrsquot stop 6c+ FA SWhittall8 No money no honey 7a+ FA SWhittall9 Puno zuji malo meda daje 7b+ FA SWhittall

10 Dangerous but fun 7a FA SWhittall11 Happy hour 6a-6b FA SWhittall12 One step beyond 6b FA SWhittall13 One way ticket project14 Donrsquot look down 6b+ FA SWhittall15 Warm up routes16 Warm up routes A ndash approach to route 13 and 14

Sector TRIANGLE

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SECTOR MALI PREVJES1 Black fish 5a FA SWhittall2 Dead fish 5a FA SWhittall3 No fish 6a FA SWhittall4 Project5 To be or not 2be 7a+ FA SWhittall

Sector MALI PREVJES

6 Be happy be free 7b FA SWhittall7 No escape 7b FA SWhittall8 Where eagles dare 6a FA SWhittall9 On a mission from God 7a+ FA SWhittall10 Free fall 7a+ FA SWhittall11 Project

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Sector ORANGE

SECTOR ORANGE1 Steversquos crack 7a+ 13m FA SWhittall2 Poluga 6c+ 10m FA SWhittall3 Project4 Sun is Fun 5b 8m FA DPiccini

5 Run to sun 6b+ 11m FA DPiccini no logical end the holds are dissapearing6 Project7 Project

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Sector GRANIT

SECTOR GRANIT1 Friskina 5b 9m FA BKoracak2 Zizic 6a 9m FA DPiccini3 Korner 6a+ 13m FA DPiccini4 Lokalac 7bb+ 13m FA DPiccini 5 Project 17m 6 Letterbox 7a 17m FA SWhittall7 Paklena naranca 6b 20m FA DPiccini8 Pirka 7a 9m FA DPiccini9 Project 9m10 Parabolica 7c 9m FA DPiccini 2012 11 Psihobloc 7c 9m FA LKivela (First 7c) 2010 12 Lusija 6c 9m FA DPiccini

13 Mindja 7b+c 10m FA LKivela + 2nd part Project 18m

14 Kriya 7a 13m FA BKoracak 15 Ruski rulet 7b 13m FA BKoracak (First 7b) 16 Project 17 Tariguz 6c 13m FA BKoracak 18 Cobra crack project 12m 19 Brabonjak 6a 6m FA DPicciniA The cure for panic 7a+ 25m Traverse FA DPiccini

Nice climbing crimps mostly great moving The routes with mark have bolts placed at the bottom of some routes so you can get out get dry and use chalk

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ILisica Tariguz 6c Ciovo Sector Sustipan Ciovo

Sector Granit Ciovo

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SECTOR SHARP1 Shuriken 6a+ 9m FA DPiccini2 UV faktor 6b 9m FA DPiccini3 Dalmos 6a+ 9m FA DPiccini

Sector SHARP

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SWhittall Paklena naranca 6b Ciovo TPiccini Cupko 5c Ciovo

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DPiccini Melita 6c+ Sustipan

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Sector NB

SECTOR NB1 Easy 5a 6m FA DPiccini2 Kljun 6a 8m FA DPiccini3 Barkarjol 6a 7m FA BKoracak4 Robinson 6a 6m FA DPiccini5 Game Over 6a+ 6m FA DSupe6 GO 6b5m FA SMalenica

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Sector SUSTIPAN

SEKTOR SUSTIPAN1 Skuzaj Boro 6a12m FA DPiccini2 Morska bolest 6a+ 11m FA BKoracak3 Zvijezda 6a+ 11m FA BKoracak4 Skalinada 6a 11m FA DPiccini5 Project 18m6 Varijanta zecine 6c+ 15m FA LTrumbic7 Zecina 6a+ 15m FA BKoracak

8 Altophobia 5b 13m FA NBajic9 Easy ride 5c 12m FA DPiccini10 Cupko 5c 11m FA DSupeA Panika 6b+ 60m Traverse FA NBajic

Very popular sector because of big number of very good holds and jamrsquos The height is also nice up to 20m All routes has been climbed without chalk Good warm up sector

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Sector WHITE

SECTOR WHITE1 Dinamika 6b-c FA ISavin (broken hold after FA) Project2 Ready-Cool Project3 Daddy-Cool Project4 Krs 6a+ 12m FA DPiccini

5 Lupocet 6a 12m FA DPiccini6 La plata project 15m 7 Living on the edge Project

The left project - most atractive one - has got a bolt at the bottom of the route

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Sector SUPLJA STINA

SECTOR SUPLJA STINA1 Krik naglas 6a+ 12m FA RWebb2 The only way is up 6c+7a 10m FA DPiccini

+ ext Project 18m3 Project 18m

4 Glupaca 6a+ 10m FA DPiccini+ ext Project

5 Project6 Project

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TZlodre Kriya 7a Ciovo

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RWebb Paklena naranca 6b Ciovo

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Sector DVICA

SECTOR DVICA1 Project 16m 2 Project 12m 3 Project 10m 4 Project 18m 5 Tasmanijska neman 6b13m FA Rick Webb

6 Project 19m7 Livada 5a 10m FA DPiccini8 Project 7m9 Natko ti si car 6b 5m FA DPiccini

Very demanding and hard sector Easiest routes has been climbed only the hard proj-ectrsquos left The rock is very sharp Four projects have bolts placed at the bottom of the routes

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Sector BIG

SECTOR BIG1 Project2 Project3 Project 7b+ 4 Morski pas 6a12m FA DPiccini 5 Project6 Plankton 6a 12m FA RWebb7 Project

8 Project 7a 9 Jukebox 7b 9m FA DPiccini

+ext project10 Project 15m 11 Golupcici 6a 12m FA JZekan 12 Project

Great sector the highest one Many routes easy ones too The 3 hardest projects have bolts placed at the bottom of the routes

Deep water solo trips

Contact us

infoavanturabiz

++385915295990

++385915062163

wwwavanturabiz

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DPiccini Psihobloc 7c Ciovo

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Hvar ISLAND

Very popular tourist destination in Dalmatia is Hvar island the most sun-niest island in Adriatic sea 300 sunny days in a year is a good invitation for you to come and check it out why In climbing way this is also very popular destination for sport climbing but DWS too The best location is Sveta Nedilja very small but very beautiful area famous among local red wine production

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HVAR ISLAND - SVNEDJELJASUPLJA STINA - CLIFFBASE Hvar is also well known DWS area with the hardest routes up to 8a (tra-verse 100m) Few years ago in May 2004 deep water solo festival hap-pened on this location You can reach cliffs without a boatHow to reach HvarOnce you get to the island with ferry from Split you need to drive one hour to the south side of the island until you reach Sveta Nedilja You go to the coast and park your car there Some 20min of walking along shore towards West will take you to the Suplja stina amazing location along the sea Middle part of Suplja stina offer grandiose possibilities of DWS There are about 20 known DWS lines up to 20m grade from 5a to 7a But here DWS can be much more play in fantastic rock structure area full of grips colors with deep blue beneath You can even zig-zag travers or just sea bolder few meters above the sea

NOTEThis area is on private property For visiting you need to call Miroslav 00385 91 764 8182 Daily ticket price 3 EURwwwcliffbasecom cliffbasecliffbasecom

HVAR SVNEDJELJA SUPLJA STINA CLIFFBASE

Sport climbing routes Deep water solo

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SMalenica Project Ciovo

IFranceschi Sustipan

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placed on the south side of the island Not to many lines here to climb but what is there is very attractive So far there has been climbed just three linesZelena spilja is very small island belong to Viski skoji archipelago In the middle of the island there is a cave with a little hole in the middle where the sunlight goes through and creates green light inside of the cave The DWS routes here are easy with possibility for some harder lines Height is very friendly up to 13 metres The rock is very sharp Bisevo island has become famous for itrsquos Blue Cave very popular and touristy place Definitely worth visiting This island doesnrsquot give us to many potential for climbing but if you find yourself by the boat in the close distance we surely recommend to come here One of the walls is in Porat the small cove on west side of the island famous among itrsquos sandy beach

Vis ISLANDVis island has a really big po-tential for rock climbing in global but also for deep water solo Mainly on itrsquos south side you can reach cliffs great for DWS and mostly unclimbed so far How to reach VisIt is easy to get on the island

STINIVA1 Tsunami 6a 10m FA DPiccini2 Paradise city 6c 11m FA DPiccini3 Bodul 7a 13m FA DPiccini

DALMATIA

of Vis From Split harbour you have ferry that will take you there But it is not easy to reach cliffs without a boat It is a pity since such a great potential can be reached by very small number of climbersSo far we have three interesting places for deep water solo in Vis region marked on the map of the island Stiniva Zelena spilja Bisevo Viska Stiniva is amazing spot Nature has created beautiful spot which is worth visiting The hidden beach is absolutely unbelievable and it is surrounded with vertical cliffs Stiniva is reachable by caron foot It is

STINIVA

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DJurisic Melita 6c+ Sustipan Split LKivela Mindja 7b+c Ciovo

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5 Fortuna 6b 13m FA DPiccini6 Project 16m7 Crvenokosa 6a 11m FA DPiccini8 Rogacica 5a 11m FA DPiccini

ZELENA SPILJA1 Viska pogaca 5a 9m FA DPiccini2 Plovac 5c 10m FA DPiccini3 Klin 5c 11m FA DPiccini4 Dalmata 6a+ 12m FA DPiccini

BISEVO1 Project 12m2 Zlatna pirueta 5a 13m FA DPiccini

HLacic Za stari točak 7a Sustipan

Zelena spilja

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Kornati ISLANDSKORNATI (National park) It is amazing and awesome This region is located north from Split close to Sibenik and Zadar town 90 islands on one small area where almost every island present attraction to climbers with itrsquos south side Vertical overhanging cliffs lots of holes caves above the sea gives opportunity to climb the way you prefer Different heights of islands are optional too The most impressive one called Mana is-land will leave you breathless At year 2005 as we sad before the best world climbers visited this region and climbed 50 routes on different locations with hardest one Ring of fire 8b+ Over the years Croatian climbers have done some routes but we do not have any tracks or topos You cannot access this area without a boat and you have to pay daily ticket for visiting National Park

ILisica Ruski rulet 7b Ciovo

Contact infodalmatiaclimbingcom

+385915295990 +385915052163

Partners We have been outdoors for a long time and we have lotrsquos of partners we

are working with Here are some wwwmarulianushrwwwavanturabiz

wwwdalmatinanet

Publications

AVANTURA ADVENTURES

organize adventure day trips

in DalmatiaCheck out our website for

detailswwwavanturabiz

cover page picture DPiccini Psihobloc 7c Ciovo