3

EDITORIAL

Our focus in this issue, i.e. natural cosmetics, brings you

a colourful mixture of industry information, in particular

on the evergreen topic of ingredients.

For example, starting on page 12 is an interesting article

about oily actives by Oléos, on page 14 you will find infor-

mation about the sensory effects available from natural in-

gredients, by Clariant, the moisturising action of lactates,

gluconates and polyols, by Jungbunzlauer starts on page

18, a natural solution for the hair conditioning business

and rinse-off products by BASF starts on page 20, there is

some interesting information on biopolymers for cosmet-

ics packaging on page 22, the latest demands facing mar-

ket leaders in natural cosmetics starts on page 25, and

new products appear on page 26.

And alongside our fully updated market survey of ingredi-

ents suppliers starting on page 32, there is of course lots

of other bits of interesting information from the cosmetics

industry.1 Naturkosmetik Jahrbuch 2013, p. 7 f. 2 Naturkosmetik Jahrbuch 2013, p. 22 f.

Natural cosmetics may certainly still be a growth

market but the growth figures achieved in various

regional markets vary considerably.

In 2012 in Germany natural cosmetics and “near

natural” cosmetics together hit sales of 860 million

Euros – 45 million more than in 2011. This repre-

sents a share of 14.4 percent of the total market,

and yet growth is no longer what it was in previous

years.

But how do things look in other regional markets?

The biggest natural cosmetics market is the Far East.

Kline puts the 2011 turnover at 8.5 billion US Dollars.

In her contribution on the international natural cos-

metics market1 Elfriede Dambacher of Naturkos-

metik Konzepte, says that natural cosmetics in Asia

can clearly be categorised as a premium sector and

that European natural cosmetics brands enjoy a

good reputation there. In China, because of a few

scandals concerning cosmetics, there is a strong de-

mand for products with natural ingredients. However

genuine natural cosmetics are still hard to find.

In the USA, a tough market for natural cosmetics, the

share of the total market taken by natural cosmetics

and “near natural” cosmetics is about 17 percent.

One of the problems seen here by Elfriede

Dambacher is the low level of brand loyalty among

consumers.

“Brazil is a key market for natural cosmetics, with

high potential and, according to the Kline Group,

with over 90 percent in the hands of two brands –

Botanica und Natura,” Elfriede Dambacher says.

These brands are best classified as “near natural”.

High import tariffs make life tough for would-be

importers.

“Whilst Western Europe is a mature market for natu-

ral cosmetics the market in many Eastern European

countries is only just opening up,” she continues.

I hope you enjoy this issue,

yours

Angelika Meiss

Senior editor, COSSMA

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Contents

a Leading articles

Front cover picture: Floydine, Shutterstock.com

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Conditioning products formulated with Baycusan® C 1008 give hair elastic and natural

hold. They also repair split ends, protect hair against heat and signifi cantly enhance

shine. Another advantage of Baycusan® C 1008 are its anti-frizz properties, which last for

a period of up to 24 hours, even in weather with 90 percent humidity.

The sister product, Baycusan® C 1001, is designed for formulating highly effective con-

ditioning products that give hair a natural shine and healthy appearance. Unruly hair

is easier to comb and has a fl exible feel. A comb or brush glides much more smoothly

through the hair than with conventional conditioners based on acrylate copolymers.

Please visit us at www.baycusan.com for further information.

GENTLE CONDITIONING AND STYLING FOR DAMAGED HAIR WITH BAYCUSAN® C

P O L Y U R E T H A N E S F O R C O S M E T I C S

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SERVICES

Driven by the demographics, and by increasing amounts of money to spend,

more and more people are seeking sophisticated products to reset the clock for

their hair – and to underline an elegant lifestyle. With the on-going market

segmentation in hair care the anti-ageing category will undoubtedly grow and

achieve global relevance within the

next few years. As a result of market

research and a trend analysis, and in

response to increasingly individual-

istic hair care needs DSM has devel-

oped three transformational con-

cepts in the form of multifunctional

anti-ageing formulations combin-

ing Tilamar polymers with specific

actives from a broad portfolio.

COSSMA subscribers can download

further background information.

Body Care Marktet

(Euromonitor)

Defining the silhouette –

Charts (Lipotec)

LexFilm® Spray

Detailed Product Profile (Inolex)

Sun Lotion SPF 50+

(Bayer Material Science) ph

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Additional information at

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for August:

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In our September issue we will be look-

ing at formulations for body care prod-

ucts. In October it will be the turn of

formulations for anti-ageing prod-

ucts.

All of the information published

here has been carefully assem-

bled, however neither the pub-

lishers nor the developers of

these formulations can accept

responsibility for their safety or

accuracy.

Alongside regular shampoos,

conditioners, hair sprays,

gels, serums, mousses, waxes

and masks the following formula-

tions caught our eye.

The from offers multi-

functionality in natural hair care, and

the is aimed clearly at the

growing hair colorant sector.

Access codes to download these formulations can

be found in the Internet panel on this page

All formulations can be found at

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Your access codes for August:

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www.naturkosmetik-verlag.de

[ ]Berlin, Germany24.09. - 25.09. 2013

www.naturkosmetik-branchenkongress.de

JAHRBUCHNATURKOSMETIK

mehr Infos unter:

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Are you a specialist in a certain field? Do you know

the cosmetics industry like the back of your hand?

Are you a marketing professional,

an experienced formulator

or a well-rounded technologist? And are you looking

for new challenges in your work?

Then take a look at the va cancies on this page –

maybe is there!

There are more interesting jobs advertised on the

COSSMA web site at

Go to

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Jobs

Als mittelständisches Familienunternehmen stellen wir als Zulieferer in der Kosmetik-branche hochwertige kosmetische Produkte her. Neben der Herstellung gehören die Entwicklung, die Abfüllung und die Verpackung der Produkte zu unserer Kernkom-petenz. Zur Verstärkung unseres Entwicklungs-Teams suchen wir Ihre Mitarbeit.

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Discover today your competitors plans for tomorrow

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43

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48

Cosmoswww.cosmos-standard.org p. 22

Cotywww.coty.com p. 8

Couleur Caramelwww.coleurcaramel.de p. 26

CPL Aromaswww.cplaromas.com p. 8

DGK e.V.www.dgk-ev.de p. 10

Dow Chemicalwww.dow.com p. 36

Dow Corningwww.dowcorning.com p. 36

Dromwww.drom.com p. 8

DSMwww.dsm.com p. 36

Ecocertwww.ecocert.com p. 22

Evonikwww.evonik.com/personal-care p. 36

Firmenichwww.firmenich.com p. 8

Green Peoplewww.greenpeople.co.uk p. 26

Hermann Kochwww.hkoch.de p. 8

Jungbunzlauerwww.jungbunzlauer.com pp. 3, 18

Kline Groupwww.klinegroup.com p. 3

L’Oréalwww.loreal.com pp. 3, 8, 10

Laboratoires B.L.C.www.thalgo.com p. 50

Lancômewww.lancome.com p. 26

Leipziger Messewww.leipziger-messe.de p. 39

Lipotecwww.lipotec.com p. 36

Logocoswww.logocos.de pp. 8, 50

Lornameadwww.lornamead.com p. 10

Louvrettewww.louvrette.de p. 39

Aerobalwww.aerobal.org p. 8

Air Productswww.airproducts.com p. 36

AkzoNobelwww.akzonobel.com p. 8

Alfa Chemicalswww.alfa-chemicals.co.uk p. 16

Ashland Care Specialtieswww.ashland.com p. 36

Avonwww.avon.com p. 8

Baborwww.babor.com pp. 8, 10

Ball Aerocan Europewww.aerocan.eu p. 8

BASFwww.basf.com pp. 3, 10, 16, 20, 36

Bayer MaterialSciencewww.materialscience.bayer.de p. 36

BDIHwww.bdih.de pp. 22, 50

Beiersdorfwww.beiersdorf.com p. 10

Benecoswww.benecos.eu p. 26

Bertinwww.huiles-bertin.com p. 16

Biesterfeldwww.biesterfeld.com p. 8

BioEpidermwww.bioepiderm.de p. 16

Börlindwww.boerlind.de p. 8

Chanelwww.chanel.com p. 8

Clariantwww.clariant.com pp. 3, 14, 36

Clarisonicwww.clarisonic.com p. 3

Cliniquewww.clinique.com p. 8

Cobiosawww.cobiosa.com p. 16

Coca-Colawww.coca-cola.com p. 22

Codifwww.codif-recherche-et-nature.com p. 36

All Organic Trading GmbH AOTwww.organic-trading.de p. 31

Bayer Material Science AGwww.bayercosmetics.de p. 5

Beauteam – MakeUp in Pariswww.premiumbeautynews.com p. 27

DERMATEST GmbHwww.dermatest.de p. 11

Dr. Straetmans GmbHwww.dr-straetmans.de p. 38

Düllberg Konzentra GmbH & Co.KGwww.duellberg-konzentra.de p. 10

Flavex Naturextrakte GmbHwww.flavex.com p. 30

Idice Francewww.idice.fr p.29

IMPAG Import GmbHwww.impag.de www.impag.eu p. 9

Inolex Chemical Companywww.inolex.com p. 52

Jungbunzlauer Schweizwww.jungbunzlauer.com p. 2

Kahl GmbH & Co. KGwww.kahlwax.de p. 15

Kosmetik Konzept GmbHwww.kosmetik-konzept.eu p. 9

Krüss GmbHwww.kruss.de p. 31

Lablabowww.lablabo.com p. 23

Mani GmbHwww.mani-gmbh.com pp. 25, 31, 37, 39

Mussler Cosmetic Production GmbH & Co. KGwww.mussler.de p. 41

Nahrin AGwww.nahrin.ch p. 11

naturkosmetik konzeptewww.naturkosmetik-konzepte.de p. 11

SystemKosmetik Produktionsges.www.systemkosmetik.de p. 25

Lubrizolwww.lubrizol.com p. 36

Maria Gallandwww.maria-galland.de p. 8

Mintelwww.mintel.com p. 26

Momentive Performance Materialswww.momentive.com p. 36

NaTruewww.natrue.org pp. 22, 50

Naturkosmetik Konzeptewww.naturkosmetik-konzepte.de p. 3

Naturkosmetik Verlagwww.naturkosmetik-verlag.de p. 25

Neo Coswww.neocos.com p. 8

Nobilis Fragranceswww.nobilis-group.com p. 8

Ökotestwww.oekotest.de p. 14

Oléoswww.oleos.fr pp. 3, 12

Originswww.origins.com p. 8

Procter & Gamblewww.pg.com p. 8

Schill + Seilacherwww.schillseilacher.de p. 16

Soliancewww.soliance.com p. 16

Sunjinwww.sunjinchem.co.kr p. 16

Symrisewww.symrise.com p. 36

Vantage Specialty Chemicalswww.vantagespecialties.com p. 8

Vapourwww.vapourbeauty.com p. 26

Wackerwww.wacker.com p. 36

Wala Heilmittel GmbHwww.wala.de p. 22

Whole Foods Marketwww.wholefoodsmarket.com p. 22

www.cossma.com

Stable, oil-based

actives with proven

efficacy

Natural ingredients

with sensory effects

Market survey:

Which suppliers

offer what?

In-Cosmetics 2013:

The highlights at a

glance, short and

concise

Dr. Andrea Kühn

of Wala discusses

biopolymers as a

packaging material

for natural cosmetics

VIP of the Month

www.cossma.com