DIY Tri-Fold Futon Base

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DIY Futon BaseSaturday, 9 January 2016 11:13 AM

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How To Make A Fold out Sofa/Futon/Bed FramebyVVBoredGuy

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http://www.instructables.com/member/VVBoredGuy/http://www.instructables.com/member/VVBoredGuy/


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I enjoy relaxing on a sofa and in my bed, and so it may come as no surprise that Iwould wish to combine the two. After searching Ikea and several other shops, I foundthe average price for a "tri-fold" futon was in the region of 120GBP ($150). I found thispretty steep for what is basically some planks of pine and a mattress.

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So I decided to make my own.

Let me make this clear before I begin:This Instructable is only how to build the frame. I have not yet worked out how I will make the mattress or if I will attempt tobuy one, but in the instructables spirit if anyone has any suggestions, suggest away.

This futon folds in three sections to givea comfortably wide (4ft) and long (6ft-ish)bedthat could sleep two (if proximity is not an issue!). When it is folded up it formsa sofathat is close to the ground and has an open angle (about 100 degrees) which Ifind very comfortable to sit on.

I am not a carpenter, crafstman or a great DIY-er, I didn't even take wood tech inschool, so this instructable is very accessable. So get up off your computer and turnthat empty space in your bedroom or living room into a versatile piece of furniture! If Ican do it, so can you!

Step 1: Materials and Tools

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This is the list of materials and tools I used during the project. The wood I used waspine as it is cheap, relatively strong yet a little springy to make the futon a bit morecomfortable. The type of wood you use is up to you but in my opinion, pine worksbest. My local hardware store cut the planks for me at no extra cost, but depending onwhere you go they may charge 10% extra:this is worth it.

Wood:

12x 1200mm x 95mm planks (20mm thickness: I think this is standard)

2 x 770mm x 70 mm planks (20mm thickness)



Also some kind of stain, oil or wax to protect it and make it look good.

Nuts, Bolts and Screws:

46x 40mm screws(4mm head)

4 x 6mm bolts (6mm is the diameter: length needs to be no less than 45mm, 50mm isideal)

4 x 6mm wingnuts(or regular nuts, but wingnuts are easier to use in assembly anddisassembly)

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Tools:

Pencil

Ruler (graduated in millimetres)

Set Square(or similar)

Protractor

Electric Screwdriver/Drill

2.5mm drill bit

6.5mm drill bit

Manual Screwdriver

Saw

Medium Grade Sandpaper

Rasp or planer (a rasp is a bit like reusable, very coarse sandpaper, but a planer wouldwork just as well)

Optional

Scrap piece of wood to test drill bits and screws

Cat

The total cost of the wood came to around 33GBP ($40) and the screws, bolts and nutstotalled about 2GBP ($2.50). I alreday had the teak oil so the total cost for this project(assuming you have all the tools) is around35GBP ($45), but again this depends onwhere you shop.

Step 2: IMPORTANT NOTE

When doing any measurements throughout this instructable, remember toMEASURETWICE, CUT ONCE. This is very important as mistakes are easy to make and rushing

things is not a good idea.

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Other notes to do with safety:

- Always clamp wood that you are drilling or cutting

- Work in a clean, dry and well ventilated area

- Make sure you know how to use the saw and electric drill correctly and safely

- DO NOT work when you are tired or have drunk alcohol: you will make mistakesand you could injure yourself

Step 3: Preparing The large planks

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For this step you will need the rasp or planer, and the glasspaper. You will be workingon the 12000mm x 95mm planks.

1. Use the rasp to shamfer the edges slightly.

2. Glasspaper the plank to smooth the edges and surfaces, paying particular attentionto the ends.

(The glasspapering is easier if you wrap the glasspaper around a small block of wood. Icut a piece of scrap I had lying around.)

Do this for all 12 planks.

Step 4: Marking The Smallest Planks (690mm x 70mm)

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***Look at step 7 before doing the measuring to get an idea of what they shouldlook like***

The smallest planks (690mm x 70mm) need to have a small section cut out of one end,the other end tapered slightly and one drill hole.

Small Section(requires some accurate measuring)

1. Measure85mm downfrom one end and mark it.

2. At this mark draw aperpendicular lineacross the wood using the set square.

3. Measure an angle of 7 degrees from one of the edges. Rule a line.

4. Measure37mmalong this line (starting from the edge) and mark it.

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5. From this point measure an angle of 95 degreestowards the end of the plank. Rule aline.

6. Shade in the section in the 95 degree angle and the other side of the 7 degree angle.This is the bit to be cut out (main picture).

Drill Hole(mark this before the tapered end)

1. Measure30mm downand mark it.


3. Halfway in (35mm) mark the drill hole.

Tapered End(basically two triangles)

1. At the end with the drill hole, measure 20mm down and 20mm across the top.Draw a line.

2. This is the triangle to be cut out.

3. Repeat on other side.

Step 5: Marking The Medium Small Planks (700mm x 70mm)

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The medium small planks need on end tapered and a small triangle taken off the otherend. They also need a drill hole at each end.

Drill Holes(mark these first)

1. At one end, measure30mm downand mark it.


3. Halfway in (35mm) mark the drill hole.

4. At the other end, measure50mm downand mark it.


6. Measure15mmin and mark the drill hole.

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Tapered End(at the end with the hole in the middle)

1. Measure20mm down and 20mm across the top. Draw a line.

2. This is the triangle to be cut out.

3. Repeat on other side.

Triangle(at the end with the hole 15mm in)

1. Measure25mm downon the side opposite the drill hole.

2. Measure25mm across the top.

3. Rule a line between the marks. This is the bit needed to be cut out.

Step 6: Marking The Medium Long Planks (770mm x 70mm)


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The long planks need one drill hole and one triangle cut out at one end.

Drill hole

1. Measure165mm downfrom one end and mark it.


3. Measure15mmin and mark the drill hole.

Triangle

1. On the opposite side to the drill hole, measure35mm downand mark it.

2. Then measure35mm across the topand mark it.

3. Rule a line. This is the triangle to be cut out.

Step 7: Cutting and Drilling

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1. Cut and Drill where you have marked on the planks. (6mm drill bit)

2. On the tapered ends, triangles and cut outs smooth and sand roughly (not too muchas some measuring is yet to be done).

Now your six small planks should look like this:

This is a good time to test the folding mechanism of your futon. It should be fairly

obvious where the hinges attach and so forth but incase it isn't...

- The tapered ends attach to each

- The other end of the middle section attaches to the long section

- The cut out section of the smallest planks should rest on the longest planks whenfolded up

Step 8: Note: Measuring the Screw Holes

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Now we need to add some screw guide holes on the planks. These will make sure thescrews go in straight ensuring the best fit and so the wood doesn't crack. This is themost tedious part of the build and also one of the most important. This is a dangerouscombination soconcentrate. It should not take much longer than 30 minutes.

ACCURACY IS KEY

Step 9: Measuring the Screw Holes on the Long Planks (1200mm x95mm)

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These need to be measured differently:

- 7 planks need to be measured one way

- 4 planks another

- 1 plank is unique

The "7" planks (there will be4holes)

1. Measure150mm downfrom one side.

2. Draw aperpendicular lineacross the plank.

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3. Measurehalfwayand make a mark.

4. Now measure20mm either sideof the middle and mark your screw holes.

5. Repeatat the other end.

The "4" planks (same as last time only they are 170mm down)



3. Measurehalfwayand make a mark.

4. Now measure20mm either sideof the middle and mark your screw holes.


The "1" plank(2 holes)



3. Measurehalfwayand mark the screw hole.


Step 10: Measuring the Screw Holes on the Other Planks

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The different planks need to be measured differently. On the four shorter ones thereshould be 4 pairs of holes (8) and on the two longer ones there should be 3 pairs ofholes and one single hole (7). They all need to be measured along thetop edge(see

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step 7: the top edges are the edges farthest up on the picture).

Shortest planks(690mm x 70mm)

1. Measure85mmin from the tapered end along the top edge and mark it.(85mm from the original end of the plank: in retrospect this would have been easier beforetapering the end).

2. Measure40mmfrom this mark and mark it.


4. Repeat steps 2 and 3 twice.

5. Measure40mmfrom the last mark and mark it.

6. You now should have8marks (4 pairs).

7. Ruleperpendicular linesacross the wood on all the marks.

8. Measurehalfway in on these lines(10mm)and mark the drill holes.

9. Use this plank as a template for the second plank (see picture).

Medium small planks (700mm x 70mm)

1. Measure145mmfrom the end with one corner cut off along the top edge and markit.



4 Repeat steps 2 and 3twiceas with the small planks.


6. You now should have8marks (4 pairs).


8. Measurehalfway in on these lines(10mm)and mark the drill holes.

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Medium long planks(770mm x 70mm)

1. Measure30mmin from the flat end along the top edge and mark it. (This is thesingle hole).

2. Measure135mmfrom this mark and mark it



5. Repeat steps 3 and 4once.


7. You now should have7marks (3 pairs and one single).


9. Measurehalfway in on these lines (10mm) and mark the drill holes.


Measure these twice to avoid errors. It will save you time, effort and money in thelong run.

Step 11: Drilling the screw holes

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Using the 2.5mm drill bit, carefully drill on the marks as close to vertical as possible.

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On the large planks, the holes should go all the way through the planks.

On the smaller planks, the holes only need to extend about 20mm in (doesn't have tobe exact).

Step 12: Finishing the small planks

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After drilling the screw holes we can finish the small planks. The top edge (the onewith the holes) should only be lightly sanded as it needs to sit flush with the largeplanks. I gave the bottom edge a strong bevel.

Step 13: Assembly

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Now comes the interesting part. The key to the assembly is preparation. Firstly, screw

all of the screws through the long planks so that the ends are just poking out thebottom. This will make lining up the planks on the smaller planks infinitely easier.

The 4 long planks measured earlier attach to the medium short planks (700mm x70mm) the 7 planks attach to the other planks (the 770mm x 70mm one and the690mm x 70mm one) and the single holed plank goes on the 770mm x 70mm one). Itshould be fairly obvious but it is important to get them in the right place so the futonfolds properly.

Screw the planks in place to end up with the three sections of the futon. Beforefinishing the futon, check thateverythingworks. Assemble the futon using the wingnuts and bolts and test it. Everything should work smoothly but if not, you may needto make some adjustments.

(EDIT) I have added an extra diagram which should help you see what I mean.

Step 14: Finishing the Futon

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Disassemble the futon into its three parts. Give the whole thing a good sanding to getrid of sharp edges and to prepare it for treating. Then treat the futon with what youlike. I used 3 coats of teak oil which gives it a lovely colour and smell and protects it.However you could use wax or even stain, whatever works. Reassemble and you havea fully functional folding futon frame.

From
http://www.instructables.com/id/How-To-Make-A-Fold-out-SofaFutonBed-Frame/?ALLSTEPShttp://www.instructables.com/id/How-To-Make-A-Fold-out-SofaFutonBed-Frame/?ALLSTEPShttp://www.instructables.com/id/How-To-Make-A-Fold-out-SofaFutonBed-Frame/?ALLSTEPS

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DIY Tri-Fold Futon Base