Designing Fashion 1 Chapter 7 Designing Fashion The Design Process Making Fashion

Designing FashionDesigning Fashion

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Chapter 7


The Design ProcessThe Design Process

Making FashionMaking Fashion


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Chapter Objectives

Explain the types of fashion designers.

Identify the elements and principles of design used to create fashion.

Name the steps of the fashion design process.

Identify the steps in the garment production process.

Compare haute-couture production and prêt-à-porter production.

Explain how women’s and men’s apparel are sized.


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The Role of the Fashion Designer

Designers must anticipate what their target market will buy.

They must also produce finished garments or accessories at prices that customers will pay.

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Designers select the appropriate fabrics that will sell.

Designers sometimes supervise assistants who carry out their ideas.

Designers who run their own businesses may spend time on administrative tasks.

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Types of Designers

Self-EmployedDesigners

Design-HouseDesigners

Designers forManufacturers

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A design house, may produce a major collection twice each year.

collection a group of clothes designed and produced for a specific season

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Elements of Design

The elements of design are:

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Color

Silhouette

Line

Fabric

Texture

The elements must be chosen according to principles.

The elements must be combined effectively to achieve harmony.


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Elements of Design

Research has shown that customers respond to color before any other design element.

color a visual characteristic, representing hue and tone, that is one of the most important elements of fashion design

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Elements of Design

The next consideration is the silhouette and line.

silhouette the overall form, or outline of a garment

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line a distinct elongated mark that directs the eye movement when viewing the garment


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Elements of Design

Texture is determined by fibers, yarns, and the method of construction.

texture a characteristic of the surface of a material in terms of how it feels and looks

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Principles of DesignBesides using the basic elements of design, a skilled designer also applies the principles of design.

principles of design the standards for creating good design that include proportion, balance, rhythm, emphasis, and harmony

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Principles of Design

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The relationship of all the spaces of the garment.Proportion

The relationship (either symmetrical or asymmetrical) of one side of the garment to the other.Balance

A sense of movement through the repetition of lines, shapes, and colors.Rhythm

The center of interest, or the focal point, of the garment.Emphasis

Harmony is achieved when the designer has applied all of the principles of design to a fashion design.Harmony

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Design Process and Schedules

A marketing period is six months before consumers will purchase the merchandise.

Designers schedule merchandise to be ready two to three months before that.Example: Junior tops in stores for March were ordered in August of the previous year.

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Steps of the Design Process

Step 1 Step 2 Step 3

Step 4 Step 5 Step 6

Basic Decisions

Design Concept and

Samples

Sales Research Analysis

Design Presentation

Purchase Orders

Production

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Designers use computer-aided design (CAD) systems as a tool, like a paintbrush, to produce creations.

computer-aided design (CAD) computer programs that perform many design functions to create design

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CAD allows for quick production.


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Apparel Company Divisions

The three divisions of apparel manufacturers are:

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DesignDivision

ProductionDivision

SalesDivision

Each division works with other divisions to produce fashion merchandise.


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Interactive Design Production

The designer’s vision must be aligned with the customer’s demands so that manufacturers can use all their resources and staff to successfully market fashion.

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Operating an e-tail business on an electronic channel—the Web—can be costly, due to design, delivery, returns, and operating expenses.

Though Many larger dot-com companies crashed in the 1990’s, small stores like Harris Cyclery of West Newton, Massachusetts, actually increase sales using a basic Web site. Today, a third of Harris’s bicycle business rides in on the Web to get hard-to-find parts and personal service.

Describe an e-business’s home page to your class after viewing one through marketingseries.glencoe.com.

Fashion magazines are known for their glossy full-page ads, featuring stylish products and beautiful models. These ads are so important that they can make up 60 percent of a fashion magazine’s content. High-quality images are just as important to Internet advertisements.

Glossy Glamour Online

Fashion companies French Connection UK and Jean Paul Gaultier both have unique Web sites that combine design principles and technology in their advertising.

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For more information, go to marketingseries.glencoe.com.18

http://www.marketingseries.glencoe.com/

http://www.marketingseries.glencoe.com/


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What is the role of the fashion designer?

What are the five basic principles of design?

What are the basic steps in the fashion design process?

1.

2.

3.

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The Garment Production Process

Because many garments can be made by machine at the same time, the production process is faster and cheaper.

In order to get the process started, a pattern, or blueprint, is made so that the manufacturer can construct samples of the garment.

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The fashion industry uses computer-aided design (CAD) systems to complete patternmaking.

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patternmaking the process of transforming the design into the appropriate pieces needed to produce an apparel item

Computer systems also facilitate grading.

grading the technical process of increasing or decreasing the sizes of a pattern to correspond to a garment size


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A hard copy of the pattern is made, and garment samples are created according to the company’s sizing structure.

Samples are made to a “model” fit size of 6, 8, or 10.

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Costing is the process of calculating the production costs of a garment in order to set a wholesale price.

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wholesale the price that retail buyers pay for goods they purchase from manufacturers

The wholesale price includes:

Cost of labor

Materials

Markup


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Garments are mass-produced and cut and sewn in an assembly-line manner.

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computer-aided manufacturing (CAM) a system that automatically moves the garment parts through each phase of the cutting-and-sewing processMany manufacturers use

computer-aided manufacturing (CAM).


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After a garment is constructed, an inspector checks it for flaws.

Hangtags attached to garments provide information such as fabric content and care instructions.

Labels attached to garments identify the name of the manufacturer or the line of clothing.

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Haute couture is the French term for high-fashion designer clothing.

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prêt-á-porter French term for designer ready-to-wear clothing

Prêt-á porter is less expensive than haute couture, but it generates more income for couture fashion houses.


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Size Classifications

The different groupings of a sizing system in retail stores are known as size classifications.

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sizing system a set of sizes based on common assumptions and methods of development

Standard measurements vary from one manufacturer to another.


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Size categories in women’s apparel are based on the shape of the figure and are identified by numbered sizes.

Standard classifications include misses, women’s, juniors, and petites.

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Women’s Size System

MissesWomen’s/

LargeJuniors Petites

Styling

Conservative adaptation of previous season’s styles

Same as misses with some junior styles

Young, trendy, figure-conscious styles

Same as misses’ styles

Age 25 and up 18 and up 15 to 25 25 and up

Size Range

Even sizes 0-20Even sizes 16-26W, 16-26WP or higher

Odd sizes 3-15 Petite 0-14

FigureFully developed; over 5’4”

Larger proportioned

Not fully developed

Fully developed; under 5’4”

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Men’s sizing is more uniform than women’s sizing.

Men’s apparel such as slacks, dress shirts, and tailored apparel are sized with a dual-sizing system, or a combination of two measurements.

Most men’s sports shirts and sweaters are offered in small, medium, large, and extra large.

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A fashion company may reduce production costs by making its sizes smaller.

Vanity sizing gives the customer the illusion of being able to fit into a smaller size.

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The Value of Production

Clothing manufacturers:

Buy fabrics.

Design a line.

Produce the garments.

Sell the completed apparel to stores.

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What are the six key steps in the apparel production process?

What are the production differences between haute couture and prêt-á-porter?

What is the difference between women’s and men’s sizing?

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2.

3.

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1. Name at least two tasks of a designer.

Answers may include two of the following tasks: creating designs, selecting fabrics, monitoring patternmaking and sample production, supervising assistants, developing contacts, examining equipment and space, performing administrative tasks, reviewing catalogs, and

ordering samples.

1. Aspects to consider for the role of color are setting the tone, occasional colors, cultural colors, and seasonal colors.

2. When the designer has applied the elements and principles of design to a fashion design, harmony is achieved.

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continued

Checking Concepts

2. Identify four aspects of the role of color.

3. Explain the role of harmony as a principle of design.


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4. List the divisions of an apparel company

Divisions of an apparel company include: design, production, and sales.

4. Grading is the technical process of increasing or decreasing the sizes of a pattern to correspond to a garment size.

5. It is the French term of designer ready-to-wear clothing.

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continued

Checking Concepts

5. Define the term grading.

6. Define prêt-á-porter.

7. Name two computer systems used in fashion manufacturing.

computer-aided design and computer-aided manufacturing systems

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Critical Thinking

Checking Concepts

8. Explain why women’s sizes may be less standard than men’s sizes

Men’s apparel is sized more uniformly than women’s apparel. There is less size variation in men’s apparel because men’s sizing uses a dual-sizing system, or a combination of two measurements. Women’s sizes also vary from manufacturer to manufacturer.

8.

Documents

Designing Fashion 1 Chapter 7 Designing Fashion The Design Process Making Fashion