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D E S I G N D E T A I L S F W 2 1 • M I N T M O D A
D E S I G N D E TA I L S F W 2 1
DESIGN DETAILSFW20 edited for FW21Design details add a dose of drama to this season’s clothing silhouettes. There is lots of newness in the neckline department, with elongated pointy collars, quaint puritan styles, fluid drapery and exaggerated lapels. Shoulder emphasis is created with extra padding, and sleeves continue with poufy volume; dropped shoulder-seams update both looks. Built-in elements include capes and bras, while corset-like effects are constructed with seaming. Tailored wovens gain dimension from twisting and wrapping, while quilting updates with a variety of patterns. Fringe appears across classifications, and the multi-panel “car wash” skirt re-emerges. Ruffles are ubiquitous in statement-making layers, as are gathers in the form of ruching, smocking or drawstrings.
JW Anderson D E S I G N D E T A I L S F W 2 1 • M I N T M O D A
D E S I G N D E T A I L S F W 2 1 • M I N T M O D A
1 . T H E Q U A I N T C O L L A Rpeter pan, puritan, sailor & chelsea collars lend a quaint, vintage feel; ruffle trim adds naiveté; school uniform inspirations
Miu
Miu
Vive
tta
Guc
ci
2 . T H E P O I N T Y C O L L A Rshirt collars are elongated with sharp points; subtle variations of the look include high neck or exaggerated wing silhouettes
Bev
za
16 A
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. Mod
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D E S I G N D E T A I L S F W 2 1 • M I N T M O D A
4 . B I B S & Y O K E Sbibs & plackets add a decorative touch to tops and dresses; outlined with ruffles or trim; self fabric or contrasting versions
necklines emulate scarves or kerchiefs; draped panels wrap around the neck or fall into cowls; key for fluid tops & dresses; unexpected effect for tailored outerwear
3 . T H E D R A P E D N E C K L I N EU
lla J
ohns
on
MSG
M
Vero
nica
Bea
rd
Tory
Bur
ch
Ann
a Su
i
Ada
m L
ippe
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D E S I G N D E T A I L S F W 2 1 • M I N T M O D A
6 . T H E P O W E R S H O U L D E Rboxy, extra padded shoulders create a powerful silhouette; also achieved with voluminous pleating; key for jackets & outerwear; especially new for sweater knits
extra-large lapels for tailored jackets & coats; wide enough to reach the shoulders; portrait necklines add drama
5 . L A P E L D R A M A
Vale
ntin
o
No
21 Tod’
s
Kwai
den
Editi
ons
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el M
aran
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Eckh
aus
Latta
D E S I G N D E T A I L S F W 2 1 • M I N T M O D A
8 . T H E V I C T O R I A N S L E E V Epouf sleeves of all kinds continue; vintage silhouettes inspire — balloon, Juliet, bishop, lantern; crisp fabrics hold shape & volume
flared sleeve silhouettes for knit or woven tops & dresses; bell & virago styles; ruffle cuffs are key
7 . T H E B E L L S L E E V E
Ada
m L
ippe
s
Khai
te Bot
tega
Ven
eta
Self
Port
rait
Roda
rte
Jil S
ande
r
D E S I G N D E T A I L S F W 2 1 • M I N T M O D A
9 . T H E D R O P P E D S L E E V Eshoulder seams at the bicep create a dropped sleeve effect; puff sleeves emphasize the look; key for top layering pieces
1 0 . C A P E E F F E C T Sbuilt-in capes; panels draped over shoulders or attached to sleeves; arm slits for versatility; for sweaters, tops, dresses & outerwear
Max
Mar
a
Fend
i
Tod’
s
Sim
ona
Mar
zial
i
JW A
nder
son
Caro
lina
Her
rera
D E S I G N D E T A I L S F W 2 1 • M I N T M O D A
1 2 . C O R S E T M A T T E R Sprincess seams create a molded, corset-like look, innovative for fitted sweaters; flat felled seams mimic boning or underwires
all kinds of bra effects; cone-shaped insets, piecing at the bust, or layered constructions; works for both wovens & knits
1 1 . T H E B U I L T - I N B R A
Fend
i Vive
tta
Bra
ndon
Max
wel
l
Dak
s
MSG
M
Mar
c Ja
cobs
D E S I G N D E T A I L S F W 2 1 • M I N T M O D A
1 4 . T H E D R A W S T R I N G G A T H E R Sself-drawstrings are used to create shirred gathers; sleeve placement or used to hike up hemlines; functional as well as decorative
smocking adds stretchy shape & texture to silhouettes; woven or jerseys; large smocked panels define the torso; interesting placement at sleeve
1 3 . R U C H I N G & S M O C K I N G
Bur
berr
y
Vict
oria
Bec
kham
Vict
oria
Bec
kham
Guc
ci
Chri
stia
n Co
wan
Dio
n Le
e
Roja
s
D E S I G N D E T A I L S F W 2 1 • M I N T M O D A
1 5 . P L E A T I N T E R E S Tnew ways with pleats; asymmetric placements; sheer insets, draped effects; accordion, sunburst, crystal or knife pleats
1 6 . T A I L O R E D T W I S T S & W R A P Stwisted & wrapped effects add dimensional interest to tailored daytime silhouettes; new for suitings & lightweight leathers
Jeffe
ry D
odd
No
21
Dio
r
Wic
kste
ad
Gen
ny 16 A
rlin
gton
D E S I G N D E T A I L S F W 2 1 • M I N T M O D A
1 7 . P A D D I N G & Q U I L T I N Glight padding & all kinds of quilting; geometric shapes, hearts or standard boxes; mixed quilting patterns; trapunto too
1 8 . T O N A L P I E C I N Gtonal color-blocking effects for patchwork & piecing; monochrome pattern mixes with pinstripes or plaids
Mar
ni
John
Rog
ers
SIm
ona
Mar
zial
i
Ferr
agam
o
Vero
nica
Bea
rd
Mar
co R
amba
ldi
Mar
co R
amba
ldi
D E S I G N D E T A I L S F W 2 1 • M I N T M O D A
1 9 . S L I T S & C U T O U T Sstrategically placed slits & cutouts reveal slivers of skin; works for both knits & wovens; waist, torso & shoulders are key placements
2 0 . S T R A P S & B E L T Sself-belts & straps; unexpected placements at neck or open back; channel elastic, side-release buckles & grommets add interest
Alm
eida
Conc
ept K
orea
Pree
n
Koch
e
Noo
n
Iceb
erg
D E S I G N D E T A I L S F W 2 1 • M I N T M O D A
2 1 . W E A R & T E A Rdistressed effects like holes, snags, pilling & fraying; raw edges & hems; works for both wovens & sweater knits; gives an edge to rich brocades
2 2 . S E L F - F R I N G Ecut fringe at hems & edges; unexpected detail for tailored wovens; blanket fringe & suede fringe too; 90s “carwash” skirts re-emerge
Bos
s
Bot
tega
Ven
eta
Prad
a
Off-
Whi
te
Acn
e
Mar
ni
D E S I G N D E T A I L S F W 2 1 • M I N T M O D A
2 3 . R U F F L E M A N I Aself-ruffles of all kinds—especially tiered ruffles — look fresh for tailored items as well soft pieces; placed at shoulder seam, as a “jabot” front, at waist or allover
2 4 . B O W S & T I E Sbig self-bows; structured or soft; built-in to garment or tied softly; key placement at neck, waist or bust
Erde
m Self
Port
rait
Taor
ay W
ang
Mar
ques
Alm
eida
Celin
e Caro
lina
Her
rera
D E S I G N D E T A I L S F W 2 1 • M I N T M O D A
DESIGN DETAILS CHECKLIST F W 2 0 e d i t e d f o r S S 2 1
1. THE QUAINT COLLAR
2. THE POINTY COLLAR
3. THE DRAPED NECKLINE
4. BIBS & YOKES
5. LAPEL DRAMA
6. THE POWER SHOULDERS
7. THE BELL SLEEVE
8. THE VICTORIAN SLEEVE
9. THE DROPPED SLEEVE
10. CAPE EFFECTS
11. THE BUILT-IN BRA
12. CORSET MATTERS
13. RUCHING & SMOCKING
14. THE DRAWSTRING GATHERS
15. PLEAT INTEREST
16. TAILORED TWISTS & WRAPS
17. PADDING & QUILTING
18. TONAL PIECING
19. SLITS & CUTOUTS
20. STRAPS & BELTS
21. WEAR & TEAR
22. SELF-FRINGE
23. RUFFLE MANIA
24. BOWS & TIES