1

Dena - Double 14500 VV Regulated Mod

Parts list: 1) 4AA battery box with on/off switch (Radio Shack, digikey.com, various ebay sellers).

2) Shorty atty connector with nut (madvapes.com, avidvaper.com).

3) #12 steel finishing washer (bought at Lowes).

4) Atty switch NO (normally open) – I used E Switch part #PV5S640SS (digikey.com, onlinecomponents.com).

5) Miniature 3-position (on/off/on) slide switch - I used Apem part #TG39P000000 (onlinecomponents.com).

6) OKR-T/6-W12-C switching converter (digikey.com).

2

7) 2 capacitors – 16v, 10µF (digikey.com, allelectronics.com).

8) 1S-6S voltage reader (ebay).

9) 200 ohm potentiometer – part #91AR200LF (onlinecomponents.com, digikey.com, mouser.com). Optional: 8mm LED holder to mount the POT in the mod (ebay).

10) 220 ohm resistor and 10K ohm resister (allelectronics.com).

11) Assorted colors 26 gauge stranded wire (bought at allelectronics.com). The colors I used in this mod are red, black, yellow, purple, and green. Unless otherwise noted, I cut all wires about 3" long and then trim as needed. I also tin all exposed wire ends before soldering it to a connection.

3

Miscellaneous supplies list: 1) Electrical tape 2) Heat resistant, electrical insulator tape (Kapton Tape) – if you don't have it, electrical tape will do 3) Soldering flux 4) Shrink tube 5) Helping hands soldering unit A. Preparing the case. 1) Remove all parts from the case.

2) Dremel center section out.

4

3) Drill holes for the atty connector, voltage reader, atty switch, POT, and 3-position slide switch. I placed this slide switch in the lower left of the mod (as facing from the back side – see below).

4) Cut apart a +/- batt contact

5) Apply flux to the upper inside corners of each contact and apply a small amount of solder to the area. Tin both ends of a 2" black wire and solder the ends to the contacts.

6) Insert contacts into place as shown below and push the wire so it lays flat against the center section of the mod.

5

7) Epoxy the 3-position slide switch in place. Insert the positive (the one that came with the red wire attached) and negative (the one that came with the black wire and slide switch attached) batt contacts and epoxy in place.

B. Working with the atty connector. 1) Remove the center post and insulator (I use a small round punch to push the center post and insulator out, but the flat end of a small drill bit will also work).

2) Fill the hole of the underside of the center post with solder. Tin the end of a 1-1/2" red wire and solder the end into the hole of the center post.

6

3) Apply flux to a small area of the nut then apply a small amount of solder to this area. Tin the end of a 3" black wire and solder to the nut over its previously soldered area.

4) Attach an atty or carto to the atty connector to help stabilize it and to help seat the connector straight in its position on the mod. Insert the finishing washer on the underside of the atty connector and attach the atty connector to the mod by screwing it in place using the connector's nut. You may need to dremel a bit from the underside of the mod to have enough of the connector poking through to the underside. Epoxy just the nut to the underside of the mod being careful not to epoxy the connector to the nut.

5) After the epoxy sets, unscrew the atty connector and remove it and the finishing washer from the mod. Apply epoxy to the underside of the finishing washer. Screw the atty connector with its finishing washer back in place in the mod.

7

-The center post will be inserted after the voltage reader is in place. C. Working with the voltage reader. 1) Cut away the plastic cover from the back of the voltage reader and along the bottom (I leave the plastic cover on the front until I'm ready to insert it into the case to protect it from damage while working with it). 2) Gently rock the 7-pin bar back and forth until it breaks loose from the board. Desolder and remove the parts of pins 1 and 2 that are still connected to the board. 3) Solder a 3" red wire through pin 2. 4) Solder a 2" black wire through pin 1.

5) Check the voltage reader to make sure it's working (I've had a few that had a bad board).

6) Insert the voltage reader in its hole making sure it is flush with the front of the mod. Epoxy in place making sure you do not cover the center hole of the atty connector. Finishing working with the atty connector… 7) Wet the insulator of the atty connector (you can use a small amount of your juice or spit) and set it into the center hole of the atty connector. Using a small round punch or the flat end of a small drill bit push the insulator into place. Then insert the center post through the insulator and into position.

8

8) Optional: securing the center post. The center post of this particular atty connector is rather long and wiggles during screwing an atty/carto on and off. I've found that because of this the insulator takes a lot of abuse and is prone to tears and distortion – leading to atty connector failure. To eliminate atty connector issues I now secure the center post in all my mods. To do this, I screw the lowest seated atty I have (or I use the Ego adapter which seats pretty low too) all the way on, then back it off a half turn. Then I push epoxy into the center hole of the atty connector from the underside. You want to make sure you don't seat the center post too low as some attys/cartos, depending on the manufacturer and how long the threaded end is, won't make contact.

D. Working with the atty switch. 1) Simply screw it in place in its hole in the mod for now. E. Working with the POT. 1) Clip the three leads to 1/8". 2) With the underside of the POT facing you and the three leads facing you, bend the right leg toward and touching the middle leg. If you are using a different POT than the one I used, with the thumbwheel facing you make sure when the trimmer's wheel is turned all the way to the left it is the highest ohm setting and when turned all the way to the right it is the lowest ohm setting. You want to be able to turn the wheel clockwise to increase vaping voltage and not counter clockwise (highest ohm setting = lowest vaping volts; lowest ohm setting = highest vaping volts). 3) Solder a 2" black wire to the middle leg and solder a 2" yellow wire to the left leg.

9

4) Test the trimmer with a multimeter set on the 200 ohm setting. With the wheel facing you, turning it all the way to the left should be the highest reading and turning all the way to the right should be the lowest reading. When finished testing, turn the thumbwheel all the way to the left (highest ohm setting). 5) If not using an LED holder to mount the POT in, position the POT in the mod and epoxy in place. I put a small piece of electrical tape over the turning connection on the underside of the POT before epoxying to prevent epoxy from locking it in place. I like to position the POT in the mod so that the pointer of the arrow (when turned all the way to the left) is directed toward the 6 o'clock position. 6) If using an 8mm LED holder to mount the POT in the mod, widen the holder by dremeling the center hole to 3/8" (widen the hole big enough so that the POT easily turns when it's set into position in the holder). Also, cut off about 3/8" from the mounting tube of the holder – you don’t want it that long. Position the POT in the holder and epoxy in place (I put a small piece of electrical tape over the turning connection on the underside of the POT before epoxying to prevent epoxy from locking it in place). After the epoxy sets, position the POT with its holder in its place in the mod and epoxy in place. I like to position the POT so that the pointer of the arrow (when turned all the way to the left) is directed toward the 6 o'clock position. F. Working with the converter. There's not much room in the mod for the converter and all its required components, so we're going to make a nice neat little package by soldering directly to the pins of the converter and tucking components into the converter. 1) Spread the pins of the converter apart as shown below.

2) Wrap the body of the converter with Kapton tape. Components will be tucked into the converter – the tape will protect metal components from touching each other and creating a short. Apply flux to each pin of the converter.

10

3) Bend the legs of the 10K resister so that they line up with pins 1 and 3. Solder one leg to pin 1 on the underside of the converter as shown below. Do not solder the leg touching pin 3 yet. Do not cut the leg of the resister soldered to pin 1, but do cut the leg touching pin 3 so that it is even with the end of pin 3.

4) I like to mark the long leg of the caps with a red Sharpie so that there is no mistaking the positive leg.

5) Bend the legs of one cap so that the legs line up with pin 2 (positive leg of the cap) and pin 3 (negative leg of the cap). Bend the legs of the other cap so that the legs line up with pin 3 (negative leg of the cap) and pin 4 (positive leg of the cap). Solder the positive legs of each cap to the appropriate pin. Do not solder the negative legs to pin 3 yet.

11

6) Cut one of the negative legs of one cap so that it is even with the end of pin 3. Do not cut the negative leg of the other cap as you will need it long. Solder the leg of each cap and 10K resistor to pin 3.

7) Bend one leg of the 220 ohm resistor as shown below. Cut the other leg to about 1/8" and solder to pin 5.

8) Check the soldered connections for shorts with a multimeter. Look closely to make sure there is no solder touching or pins touching each other.

12

9) Trim the legs of the components soldered to pins 1 through 4 to about ¼". Wrap the converter and its components with Kapton tape ensuring especially that the soldered connection at pin 5 is securely covered with tape.

10) Bend the free leg of the 220 ohm resistor forward alongside the resistor's body and tuck it into the side of the converter. Trim the leg even with the rest of the legs of the components. Wrap the body of the converter again with Kapton tape.

G. Final wiring. 1) Solder the red wire of the voltage reader to the middle leg of the 3-position slide switch. 2) Solder a 2" red wire to the left leg of the 3-position slide switch.

13

3) Cut a 1-1/2" piece of green wire. With the insulation removed from the ends of these wires, twist the end of the wire just cut with the free end of the red wire from the positive batt contact and the free end of the red wire from the left leg of the 3-position slide switch. Lightly solder the twisted ends together and insert into one terminal of the atty switch.

4) Cut a 1-1/2" piece of purple wire. Remove the insulation from one end. Tin the end and insert into the other terminal of the atty switch. 5) Cover the back of the voltage reader with electrical tape. 6) Cut a 2" red wire and solder one end to the right leg of the 3-position slide switch. 7) Cut a 3" piece of red wire. With the insulation removed from the ends of these wires, twist the end of the wire just cut with the free end of the red wire from the right leg of the 3-position slide switch. Slide a small piece of shrink tube over these wires. Solder the twisted ends of these wires to the free end of the red wire from the atty connector. Slide the shrink tube over the bare connection and apply heat.

8) Cut a 2" piece of black wire. With the insulation removed from the ends of all black wires, twist the ends of all black wires together (there will be 5 black wires). Solder the twisted ends. Slide a small piece of shrink tube over the ends and apply heat. Tuck into place alongside the right side of the voltage reader.

14

9) Slide a ¼" piece of shrink tube over the free ends of the purple, green, black, red, and yellow wires. Solder the free end of the purple wire to the leg of the resistor soldered to pin 1 of the converter. Solder the free end of the green wire to the leg of the cap soldered to pin 2 of the converter. Solder the free end of the black wire to the leg of the cap soldered to pin 3 of the converter. Solder the free end of the red wire to the leg of the cap soldered to pin 4 of the converter. Solder the free end of the yellow wire to the leg of the resistor soldered to pin 5 of the converter. Slide each shrink tube over the bare connection and apply heat. Apply double-sided sticky tape to the underside of the converter and push into place as shown below.

10) If desired, frame the voltage reader. I use a piece of adhesive-backed black glossy vinyl cut to the correct size.

15

H. Testing the mod. 1) Insert batteries into the battery slots (negative pole of each batt is directed toward the spring). Turn the master switch to the on position (left slide switch). Push the lever of the 3-position slide switch to the very right. Total input volts should be displayed.

2) Push the lever of the 3-position slide switch to the very left. Press the atty switch. Vaping volts should be displayed.

Turn the thumbwheel of the POT all the way to the left and press the atty switch – you should see around 3.6 volts displayed (the tolerance for the POT is 20% so lowest vaping volts will vary according to the tolerance, but should be around 3.6 volts). Turn the thumbwheel all the way to the right and press the atty switch – you should see 6 volts displayed.

16

3) Push the lever of the 3-position slide switch to the middle. Press the atty switch. No display should be noted – the voltage reader is turned off. 4) Push the lever of the master switch to the off position. Press the atty switch. Nothing should happen as the mod is turned off. If things aren't working as they should, closely check all your soldered connections, there may be a cold soldered joint or a connection may have become loose. Good luck & hope you enjoy your new mod! Mamu