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Marcel Dekker, Inc. New York Basel
Handbook of Cosmetic Science
and Technology
edited by
Andr O. BarelFree University of BrusselsBrussels, Belgium
Marc PayeColgate-Palmolive Research and Development, Inc.Milmort, Belgium
Howard I. MaibachUniversity of California at San Francisco School of MedicineSan Francisco, California
Copyright 2001 by Marcel Dekker, Inc. All Rights Reserved.
ISBN: 0-8247-0292-1
This book is printed on acid-free paper.
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Copyright 2001 by Marcel Dekker, Inc. All Rights Reserved.
Neither this book nor any part may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means,electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, microfilming, and recording, or by any informa-tion storage and retrieval system, without permission in writing from the publisher.
Current printing (last digit):10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
PRINTED IN THE UNITED STATES OF AMERICA
Preface
Cosmetic composition and formulation are becoming increasingly complex, and cosmeticingredients more sophisticated and functional, while laws and regulations impose moreconstraints on the cosmetic scientist and manufacturer. The Handbook of Cosmetic Scienceand Technology reviews in a single volume the multiple facets of the cosmetic field andprovides the reader with an easy-to-access information source.
This handbook covers topics as varied as the physiology of the potential targetsof cosmetics, safety, legal and regulatory considerations throughout the world, cosmeticingredients, vehicles and finished products, and new delivery systems, as well as microbi-ology and safety and efficacy testing.
To achieve our goal, we, the editors, requested the contributions of expert scientistsfrom academic dermatology and dermato-cosmetics, the cosmetics industry, ingredientsand raw materials producers, and regulatory agencies. Because cosmetology is universal,while having some regional specificity, those authors were selected on a broad geographi-cal basis, with some coming from the United States, Europe, Japan, and Australia. Theyshare in their chapters not only their experience and knowledge but also new informationand their expert views regarding the future. We thank the authors for their high dedication,which permitted us to make this handbook a review of the state of the art in cosmetologyin the new millennium. The staff of Marcel Dekker, Inc., played a great role in the produc-tion of the handbook, ensuring on a day-to-day basis the contact between the editors andthe authors. Our thanks especially go to Sandra Beberman, Jane Roh, and Moraima Suarezfor their constant and excellent help.
Finally, we encourage our readership to send us their comments and suggestions onwhat should be modified or considered in future editions.
Andre O. BarelMarc Paye
Howard I. Maibach
iii
Contents
Preface iiiContributors xi
Part 1 INTRODUCTION
1. Introduction 1Andre O. Barel, Marc Paye, and Howard I. Maibach
2. Definition of Cosmetics 5Stanley R. Milstein, John E. Bailey, and Allen R. Halper
Part 2 TARGET ORGANS FOR COSMETIC PRODUCTS
3. The Microscopic Structure of the Epidermis and Its Derivatives 19Joel J. Elias
4. The Normal Nail 29Josette Andre
5. Hair 35Ghassan Shaker and Dominique Van Neste
Part 3 SAFETY CONSIDERATIONS
6. Safety Terminology 47Ai-Lean Chew and Howard I. Maibach
7. Principles and Practice of Percutaneous Absorption 53Ronald C. Wester and Howard I. Maibach
8. Principles and Mechanisms of Skin Irritation 67Sibylle Schliemann-Willers and Peter Elsner
9. Allergy and Hypoallergenic Products 77An E. Goossens
v
vi Contents
10. Dermatological Problems Linked to Perfumes 89Anton C. de Groot
11. In Vitro Tests for Skin Irritation 95Michael K. Robinson, Rosemarie Osborne, and Mary A. Perkins
12. In Vivo Irritation 107Saqib J. Bashir and Howard I. Maibach
13. Eye Irritation Testing 119Leon H. Bruner, Rodger D. Curren, John W. Harbell, RosemarieOsborne, and James K. Maurer
Part 4 VEHICLES OF COSMETIC PRODUCTS
14. Main Cosmetic Vehicles 145Stephan Buchmann
15. Encapsulation to Deliver Topical Actives 171Jocelia Jansen and Howard I. Maibach
16. Encapsulation Using Porous Microspheres 191Jorge Heller, Subhash J. Saxena, and John Barr
17. Liposomes 201Hans Lautenschlager
18. Topical Delivery by Iontophoresis 211Veronique Preat and Rita Vanbever
19. Mousses 221Albert Zorko Abram and Roderick Peter John Tomlinson
20. Cosmetic Patches 233Spiros A. Fotinos
Part 5 COSMETIC INGREDIENTS
21. Antibacterial Agents and Preservatives 245Francoise Siquet and Michel J. Devleeschouwer
22. General Concepts of Skin Irritancy and Anti-irritant Products 253Andre O. Barel
23. Anti-irritants for Surfactant-Based Products 271Marc Paye
24. The Case of Alpha-Bisabolol 277Klaus Stanzl and Jurgen Vollhardt
25. Anti-irritants for Sensory Irritation 285Gary S. Hahn
26. Antioxidants 299Stefan Udo Weber, John K. Lodge, Claude Saliou, and Lester Packer
Contents vii
27. Alpha Hydroxy Acids 311Enzo Berardesca
28. Colorants 317Gisbert Otterstatter
29. Hair Conditioners 331Charles Reich and Dean T. Su
30. Hydrating Substances 347Marie Loden
31. Ceramides and Lipids 361Bozena B. Michniak and Philip W. Wertz
32. Natural Extracts 369Jurgen Vollhardt
33. Rheological Additives and Stabilizers 377Ekong A. Ekong, Mohand Melbouci, Kate Lusvardi, andPaquita E. Erazo-Majewicz
34. Silicones: A Key Ingredient in Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations 389Janet M. Blakely
35. Skin-Feel Agents 399Germaine Zocchi
36. Surfactants 417Takamitsu Tamura and Mitsuteru Masuda
37. Classification of Surfactants 431Louis Oldenhove de Guertechin
38. UV Filters 451Stanley B. Levy
39. Vitamins 463Alois Kretz and Ulrich Moser
40. Ellagic Acid: A New Skin-Whitening Active Ingredient 473Yoshimasa Tanaka
Part 6 COSMETIC PRODUCTS
Skincare Products
41. Cosmetics and Interactions with Superficial Epidermis 479Jrgen Serup
42. Skin Cleansing Bars 485Joshua B. Ghaim and Elizabeth D. Volz
43. Skin Cleansing Liquids 499Daisuke Kaneko and Kazutami Sakamoto
viii Contents
44. Emulsion-Based Skincare Products: Formulating and Measuring TheirMoisturizing Benefits 511Howard Epstein and F. Anthony Simion
45. Anticellulite Products and Treatments 531Andre O. Barel
46. Antiwrinkle Products 543William J. Cunningham
47. Artificial Tanning Products 551Stanley B. Levy
48. Barrier Creams 557Cees Korstanje
49. Skin-Whitening Products 567Hongbo Zhai and Howard I. Maibach
Haircare Products
50. Interactions with Hair and Scalp 575Dominique Van Neste and Ghassan Shaker
51. Hair Cosmetics 581Leszek J. Wolfram
52. Ethnic Differences in Haircare Products 605Joerg Kahre
Other Cosmetic Products
53. Oral-Care Products 619Abdul Gaffar
54. Decorative Products 645Mitchell L. Schlossman
55. Cosmetics for Nails 685Douglas Schoon and Robert Baran
56. Antiperspirants 689Jorg Schreiber
57. Deodorants 703Jorg Schreiber
58. Baby Care 715Uwe Schonrock
59. Cosmetics for the Elderly 723Uwe Schonrock
Contents ix
Part 7 LEGISLATION AND REGULATIONS WORLDWIDE
60. EEC Cosmetic Directive and Legislation in Europe 729Rene Van Essche
61. Regulatory Requirements for the Marketing of Cosmetics in the UnitedStates 737Stanley R. Milstein, John E. Bailey, and Allen R. Halper
62. Legislation in Japan 761Mitsuteru Masuda
Part 8 TESTING COSMETIC PRODUCTS
63. Stability Testing of Cosmetic Products 769Perry Romanowski and Randy Schueller
64. Stability Control: Microbiological Tests 781Michel J. Devleeschouwer and Francoise Siquet
Part 9 COSMETIC CLAIMS
65. Introduction to the Proof of Claims 797Marc Paye and A. O. Barel
66. Tests for Sensitive Skin 807Alessandra Pelosi, Sabrina Lazzerini, Enzo Berardesca, andHoward I. Maibach
67. Tests for Skin Hydration 815Bernard Gabard
68. Tests for Skin Protection: Barrier Effect 823Hongbo Zhai and Howard I. Maibach
69. Objective Methods for Assessment of Human Facial Wrinkles 829Gary Grove and Mary Jo Grove
70. Acnegenicity and Comedogenicity Testing for Cosmetics 837F. Anthony Simion
71. Sensory Testing 845Linda P. Oddo and Kathy Shannon
Index 859
Contributors
Albert Zorko Abram, B.Sc. Soltec Research Pty Ltd., Rowville, Victoria, Australia
Josette Andre, M.D. Faculty of Medicine, Free University of Brussels, and Departmentof Dermatology, Hopital Saint-Pierre, Brussels, Belgium
John E. Bailey, Ph.D. Office of Cosmetics and Colors, Center for Food Safety andApplied Nutrition (CFSAN), U.S. Food and Drug Administration, Washington, D.C.
Robert Baran, M.D. Nail Disease Center, Cannes, France
Andre O. Barel, Ph.D. Faculty of Physical Education and Physiotherapy, Free Univer-sity of Brussels, Brussels, Belgium
John Barr, Ph.D. Pharmaceutical Sciences, Advanced Polymer Systems, RedwoodCity, California
Saqib J. Bashir, B.Sc.(Hons), M.B., Ch.B. Department of