Cosmetics PDF

lazar0824741390_tn_std.jpg

TM

Marcel Dekker, Inc. New York Basel

Handbook of Cosmetic Science

and Technology

edited by

Andr O. BarelFree University of BrusselsBrussels, Belgium

Marc PayeColgate-Palmolive Research and Development, Inc.Milmort, Belgium

Howard I. MaibachUniversity of California at San Francisco School of MedicineSan Francisco, California

Copyright 2001 by Marcel Dekker, Inc. All Rights Reserved.

ISBN: 0-8247-0292-1

This book is printed on acid-free paper.

HeadquartersMarcel Dekker, Inc.270 Madison Avenue, New York, NY 10016tel: 212-696-9000; fax: 212-685-4540

Eastern Hemisphere DistributionMarcel Dekker AGHutgasse 4, Postfach 812, CH-4001 Basel, Switzerlandtel: 41-61-261-8482; fax: 41-61-261-8896

World Wide Webhttp:/ /www.dekker.com

The publisher offers discounts on this book when ordered in bulk quantities. For more information,write to Special Sales/Professional Marketing at the headquarters address above.

Copyright 2001 by Marcel Dekker, Inc. All Rights Reserved.

Neither this book nor any part may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means,electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, microfilming, and recording, or by any informa-tion storage and retrieval system, without permission in writing from the publisher.

Current printing (last digit):10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1

PRINTED IN THE UNITED STATES OF AMERICA

Preface

Cosmetic composition and formulation are becoming increasingly complex, and cosmeticingredients more sophisticated and functional, while laws and regulations impose moreconstraints on the cosmetic scientist and manufacturer. The Handbook of Cosmetic Scienceand Technology reviews in a single volume the multiple facets of the cosmetic field andprovides the reader with an easy-to-access information source.

This handbook covers topics as varied as the physiology of the potential targetsof cosmetics, safety, legal and regulatory considerations throughout the world, cosmeticingredients, vehicles and finished products, and new delivery systems, as well as microbi-ology and safety and efficacy testing.

To achieve our goal, we, the editors, requested the contributions of expert scientistsfrom academic dermatology and dermato-cosmetics, the cosmetics industry, ingredientsand raw materials producers, and regulatory agencies. Because cosmetology is universal,while having some regional specificity, those authors were selected on a broad geographi-cal basis, with some coming from the United States, Europe, Japan, and Australia. Theyshare in their chapters not only their experience and knowledge but also new informationand their expert views regarding the future. We thank the authors for their high dedication,which permitted us to make this handbook a review of the state of the art in cosmetologyin the new millennium. The staff of Marcel Dekker, Inc., played a great role in the produc-tion of the handbook, ensuring on a day-to-day basis the contact between the editors andthe authors. Our thanks especially go to Sandra Beberman, Jane Roh, and Moraima Suarezfor their constant and excellent help.

Finally, we encourage our readership to send us their comments and suggestions onwhat should be modified or considered in future editions.

Andre O. BarelMarc Paye

Howard I. Maibach

iii

Contents

Preface iiiContributors xi

Part 1 INTRODUCTION

1. Introduction 1Andre O. Barel, Marc Paye, and Howard I. Maibach

2. Definition of Cosmetics 5Stanley R. Milstein, John E. Bailey, and Allen R. Halper

Part 2 TARGET ORGANS FOR COSMETIC PRODUCTS

3. The Microscopic Structure of the Epidermis and Its Derivatives 19Joel J. Elias

4. The Normal Nail 29Josette Andre

5. Hair 35Ghassan Shaker and Dominique Van Neste

Part 3 SAFETY CONSIDERATIONS

6. Safety Terminology 47Ai-Lean Chew and Howard I. Maibach

7. Principles and Practice of Percutaneous Absorption 53Ronald C. Wester and Howard I. Maibach

8. Principles and Mechanisms of Skin Irritation 67Sibylle Schliemann-Willers and Peter Elsner

9. Allergy and Hypoallergenic Products 77An E. Goossens

v

vi Contents

10. Dermatological Problems Linked to Perfumes 89Anton C. de Groot

11. In Vitro Tests for Skin Irritation 95Michael K. Robinson, Rosemarie Osborne, and Mary A. Perkins

12. In Vivo Irritation 107Saqib J. Bashir and Howard I. Maibach

13. Eye Irritation Testing 119Leon H. Bruner, Rodger D. Curren, John W. Harbell, RosemarieOsborne, and James K. Maurer

Part 4 VEHICLES OF COSMETIC PRODUCTS

14. Main Cosmetic Vehicles 145Stephan Buchmann

15. Encapsulation to Deliver Topical Actives 171Jocelia Jansen and Howard I. Maibach

16. Encapsulation Using Porous Microspheres 191Jorge Heller, Subhash J. Saxena, and John Barr

17. Liposomes 201Hans Lautenschlager

18. Topical Delivery by Iontophoresis 211Veronique Preat and Rita Vanbever

19. Mousses 221Albert Zorko Abram and Roderick Peter John Tomlinson

20. Cosmetic Patches 233Spiros A. Fotinos

Part 5 COSMETIC INGREDIENTS

21. Antibacterial Agents and Preservatives 245Francoise Siquet and Michel J. Devleeschouwer

22. General Concepts of Skin Irritancy and Anti-irritant Products 253Andre O. Barel

23. Anti-irritants for Surfactant-Based Products 271Marc Paye

24. The Case of Alpha-Bisabolol 277Klaus Stanzl and Jurgen Vollhardt

25. Anti-irritants for Sensory Irritation 285Gary S. Hahn

26. Antioxidants 299Stefan Udo Weber, John K. Lodge, Claude Saliou, and Lester Packer

Contents vii

27. Alpha Hydroxy Acids 311Enzo Berardesca

28. Colorants 317Gisbert Otterstatter

29. Hair Conditioners 331Charles Reich and Dean T. Su

30. Hydrating Substances 347Marie Loden

31. Ceramides and Lipids 361Bozena B. Michniak and Philip W. Wertz

32. Natural Extracts 369Jurgen Vollhardt

33. Rheological Additives and Stabilizers 377Ekong A. Ekong, Mohand Melbouci, Kate Lusvardi, andPaquita E. Erazo-Majewicz

34. Silicones: A Key Ingredient in Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations 389Janet M. Blakely

35. Skin-Feel Agents 399Germaine Zocchi

36. Surfactants 417Takamitsu Tamura and Mitsuteru Masuda

37. Classification of Surfactants 431Louis Oldenhove de Guertechin

38. UV Filters 451Stanley B. Levy

39. Vitamins 463Alois Kretz and Ulrich Moser

40. Ellagic Acid: A New Skin-Whitening Active Ingredient 473Yoshimasa Tanaka

Part 6 COSMETIC PRODUCTS

Skincare Products

41. Cosmetics and Interactions with Superficial Epidermis 479Jrgen Serup

42. Skin Cleansing Bars 485Joshua B. Ghaim and Elizabeth D. Volz

43. Skin Cleansing Liquids 499Daisuke Kaneko and Kazutami Sakamoto

viii Contents

44. Emulsion-Based Skincare Products: Formulating and Measuring TheirMoisturizing Benefits 511Howard Epstein and F. Anthony Simion

45. Anticellulite Products and Treatments 531Andre O. Barel

46. Antiwrinkle Products 543William J. Cunningham

47. Artificial Tanning Products 551Stanley B. Levy

48. Barrier Creams 557Cees Korstanje

49. Skin-Whitening Products 567Hongbo Zhai and Howard I. Maibach

Haircare Products

50. Interactions with Hair and Scalp 575Dominique Van Neste and Ghassan Shaker

51. Hair Cosmetics 581Leszek J. Wolfram

52. Ethnic Differences in Haircare Products 605Joerg Kahre

Other Cosmetic Products

53. Oral-Care Products 619Abdul Gaffar

54. Decorative Products 645Mitchell L. Schlossman

55. Cosmetics for Nails 685Douglas Schoon and Robert Baran

56. Antiperspirants 689Jorg Schreiber

57. Deodorants 703Jorg Schreiber

58. Baby Care 715Uwe Schonrock

59. Cosmetics for the Elderly 723Uwe Schonrock

Contents ix

Part 7 LEGISLATION AND REGULATIONS WORLDWIDE

60. EEC Cosmetic Directive and Legislation in Europe 729Rene Van Essche

61. Regulatory Requirements for the Marketing of Cosmetics in the UnitedStates 737Stanley R. Milstein, John E. Bailey, and Allen R. Halper

62. Legislation in Japan 761Mitsuteru Masuda

Part 8 TESTING COSMETIC PRODUCTS

63. Stability Testing of Cosmetic Products 769Perry Romanowski and Randy Schueller

64. Stability Control: Microbiological Tests 781Michel J. Devleeschouwer and Francoise Siquet

Part 9 COSMETIC CLAIMS

65. Introduction to the Proof of Claims 797Marc Paye and A. O. Barel

66. Tests for Sensitive Skin 807Alessandra Pelosi, Sabrina Lazzerini, Enzo Berardesca, andHoward I. Maibach

67. Tests for Skin Hydration 815Bernard Gabard

68. Tests for Skin Protection: Barrier Effect 823Hongbo Zhai and Howard I. Maibach

69. Objective Methods for Assessment of Human Facial Wrinkles 829Gary Grove and Mary Jo Grove

70. Acnegenicity and Comedogenicity Testing for Cosmetics 837F. Anthony Simion

71. Sensory Testing 845Linda P. Oddo and Kathy Shannon

Index 859

Contributors

Albert Zorko Abram, B.Sc. Soltec Research Pty Ltd., Rowville, Victoria, Australia

Josette Andre, M.D. Faculty of Medicine, Free University of Brussels, and Departmentof Dermatology, Hopital Saint-Pierre, Brussels, Belgium

John E. Bailey, Ph.D. Office of Cosmetics and Colors, Center for Food Safety andApplied Nutrition (CFSAN), U.S. Food and Drug Administration, Washington, D.C.

Robert Baran, M.D. Nail Disease Center, Cannes, France

Andre O. Barel, Ph.D. Faculty of Physical Education and Physiotherapy, Free Univer-sity of Brussels, Brussels, Belgium

John Barr, Ph.D. Pharmaceutical Sciences, Advanced Polymer Systems, RedwoodCity, California

Saqib J. Bashir, B.Sc.(Hons), M.B., Ch.B. Department of