CONVIV IOF a l l 2 0 0 7

cheF michael white : creating taste memoriesroaming campania cheF-style

From the vine : discovering a noble graperecipes and cocktails

899-Usa 209,6x276,2.indd 1 19-09-2007 18:30:51

c o n v i v i o • f a l l 2 0 0 7 33

Dear Friends,as we turned into the gravel driveway of caseificio vanullo outside paestum in the

campania region of italy, i looked over and noted the expression on michael white’s face.

it was the same as that of my three-year old whenever she walks into the local ice-cream

store in new Jersey. he was positively beaming. immediately, he began a master’s

dissertation on the technique of hand-pulling buffalo milk curd to make the mozzarella, how

the “azienda,” or producer, uses only milk from its own “buffalo,” and how we now had the

fortuitous task of tasting fantastic yoghurts, butters and ice-creams that were also made on

the premises and served in their café.

michael and i had already spent a week together in a car, seeking out the best food and

wine that campania had to offer. i was sure that michael would be a great fit in the

kitchens of l’impero and alto. his encyclopedic knowledge of the restaurants and cuisines

of italy was staggering and inexhaustible.

a typical day traveling the italian countryside encompassed a visit with a noted winemaker,

followed by a seven-course luncheon, then some perusing of the local markets, topped off

with a grand eight-course meal. throughout the trip, michael would be at the wheel of our

rental car, talking a mile a minute about what we had just experienced and attacking the

road like michael schumacher in the grand prix at imola.

speaking of imola, michael worked for years at the stoves of san domenico under chef

valentino marcattilii. it was there that he developed his intense passion for the flavors and

culinary sensibilities of italy. in fact, he even met his wife giovanna during those years and

became, for all intents and purposes, an italian.

i feel very fortunate that michael has joined us at l’impero and alto as executive chef

and partner. his contagious exuberance and joyful “italian” nature are sure to enrich all

of our experiences at both restaurants. i hope that you enjoy this issue of Convivio, as it

introduces michael and his vision of l’impero as a venue to showcase the bright flavors of

the south, and alto as a kitchen that features “alta cucina,” or in michael’s words, “elegant,

low-energy cooking,” that captures the philosophy of the noble cuisines of the north.

good eating.

chris cannon

f a l l 2 0 0 7 • c o n v i v i o4

Michael White firmly feels the only way to be a true italian chef is to experience the culture and offerings of the country firsthand. “Taste memory: that is the biggest thing I bring back from my years in Italy, the ability to taste something and know whether or not it’s really supposed to taste that way.”

c o n v i v i o • f a l l 2 0 0 7 5

“Knowing where you come from is so

important. Italian chefs are blessed with

the most unbelievable ‘materia prima,’ an

innate ability to cook.” white himself has

always been tremendously respectful of his

norwegian heritage, even while growing up

in a small town in wisconsin.

“My grandparents came from Norway. We

ate fish balls and rice at holiday times and

started off each day with a typical Norwegian

breakfast, which consists of having a

toaster on the table and some combination

of sausages. I was lucky enough to grow

up eating great food: salmon before it was

popular, and no frozen foods or canned

vegetables.” now white alternates between

two homes: new york and italy.

he first headed to europe when he was barely

20, to work with chef valentino marcattilii on

and off for seven years at ristorante san

domenico in imola. he also honed his skills

in the south of France.

in italy, he gained not only culinary insight but

cultural instruction through self-immersion.

he learned how italians ate: “Pasta portions

aren’t big like in America. Everyone eats a

m i c h a e l w h i t e :creating taste memories

t h e h e a r t o F a c h e F

chef Michael White, the new Executive chef at L’impero and Alto, possesses the confidence of a man skilled in his trade and happy in his surroundings. Walking into L’impero, he throws his arms out and calls the dining room his “living room.” When he announces he really loves what he does, you believe him. After he says his kitchen has soul, you admire him. And as you watch him interact with his waitstaff, addressing them in their respective languages, you appreciate his deference for heritage and beginnings.

small antipasta, then pasta, followed by an

entrée. And at dinnertime it’s often much

more simple—a portion of meat and a salad,

perhaps.” he fell in love with the products:

“Food is so important to Europeans in

general, and to work with great products like

fresh fish straight out of the Mediterranean

speaks volumes about the culture.”

today, michael white exudes italian in

everything he does. he speaks the language

fluently. he spends as much time as he

can there with his family—his wife is from

southern italy. even in new york, “we

are very through and through Italian,” he

exclaims. and of course, he cooks like an

italian.

“Thinking like an Italian chef is very difficult

to do if you’ve never been there,” white

offers candidly. “You need taste memories

that come from Italy. Since we don’t work

with recipes at Alto and L’Impero, it comes

down to taste and really getting people to

think about the food.”

at its best, italian cooking is very simple:

80% ingredients, 20% technique. “A dish

should allow 3 or 4 ingredients to stand on

their own–they just came out of the ground, don’t ruin

them!” of course, “without good technique it doesn’t

come together,” white admits. the real magic lies in

the nuances that make each ingredient shine.

sourcing product is fundamental. every region has those

unique little ingredients that make the dishes special,

and white is always in search of these. “Take Colatura

di alici, from Cetara on the Amalfi coast. Colatura

means ‘drippings’—like what drains from a colander.

It’s basically an Italian fish sauce made up of clarified

blood and juices from salt anchovies. It’s a salting

agent used to flavor pasta. Years ago, when salt was

expensive, people would use Colatura as a substitute to

f a l l 2 0 0 7 • c o n v i v i o6

flavor dishes. And this is ultimately how you make your

food ‘taste’: add a few drops to a spaghetti with olives

and chilies and it brings out an amazing roundness.”

well-traveled and well-intentioned, white has a clear

perspective on the task at hand: the artful direction of

l’impero and alto’s cuisine. he’s excited. it would be

easy to fall back on his legacy of recipes but white is

continually thinking ahead: “I want to be different. You

can walk into a restaurant in Singapore, Dubai, L.A. or

New York and order tuna tartare. I call that ‘you can

be anywhere food.’ But you won’t find that here. The

kitchen is always evolving; we are constantly tasting

new things. It makes for a very unique menu at both

restaurants.”

he describes l’impero as “rustic but refined,”

implementing full-flavored, bold food in a restrained

fashion. “In-your-face-food is very much what Southern

Italian cuisine is all about, but rather than overwhelm

you with flavors like garlic and chilies, at L’Impero we’re

all about balance and doing these flavors upfront.” it’s

an ingredient-driven restaurant using old techniques:

braising eggplant with anchovies and tomatoes, hand-

making macaroni on a wire, crafting orecchiette from

scratch. “We go to great pains to do this right—because

to be the real deal you have to go that extra step.”

dining at l’impero is to embrace the whole italian

experience. many customers prefer the ‘menu’:

choosing an antipasta (before the pasta), pasta

and then le secondo (entrée of fish or meat) before

finally, dessert. “This is how Italians eat; they hit all

categories.”

it’s also about keeping an open mind: there are real

misconceptions that southern cuisine is all about

red sauce. “Our menu pulls not just from Sicily and

Calabria but Southern Tuscany down. If you went to

the Isle of Ponza, just off the coast between Rome and

Naples, braised lentils are very popular. In Campania

you get Minestra maritata—braised greens with ham

hock and beans. In the mountains they use a lot of

freshly churned butter in their food, sheep’s

milk ricotta and Caciocavallo cheese; and

as you get to the lower plains towards the

sea, they use a lot of olive oil to accompany

fish.”

at alto, white plans his dishes around the

notion of using the finest ingredients italy

and america can provide to achieve ‘alta

cucina’ (highly refined cuisine). “This is the

kind of food the kings and queens of Italy have

eaten and I’ve done this type of cooking for

years, so it’s a real natural for me.” at alto,

he stresses keeping the food very simple

to make sexy italian food, like really briny,

warm seafood salads where he just opens

up clams and seasons them with a little olive

oil, sea salt and lemon juice; dover sole,

poached with barlocci beans and shavings

of a gray mullet bortaga; or roast guinea

hen with cabbage, porcini mushrooms and

pancetta scented with rosemary oil. “These

dishes hold very light, impact flavors that we

treat very simply.”

if sticking to your roots is white’s motto

for chefs worldwide, he practices what

he preaches. italian at heart and hearth,

nothing’s lost in translation in chef michael

white’s passionate pursuit of creating simply

the best italian cuisine—simply because

what he does comes from within.

FAvoritE EuropEAn city?

rome, with paris a close second. to me, rome is just not as uptight as paris is—you get what you get. in rome they don’t put on any airs, it’s just cool.

FAvoritE gAME birD on A FALL MEnu?

Squab.

Any pEtS groWing up?

A german shepherd called Kelly.

WhAt’S thE onE thing you rEFuSE to EAt?

that’s a hard question—i don’t care for cranberries.

MopED or SubWAy AS prEFErrED MoDE oF trAnSport?

Subway.

Who ArE crAziEr DrivErS: thE itALiAnS or nEW yorKErS?

italians by far!

SoccEr or FootbALL?

A tough choice! i would have to say football—the green bay packers—i’m from Wisconsin!

FAvoritE KitchEn gADgEt?

the Microplane—one of the great new inventions of the kitchen!

c o n v i v i o • f a l l 2 0 0 7 7

Fortress walls in the medieval town of Sant’Agata dè goti

“We get Italian purveyors here in America to

source specific Italian products. This is so

important because you can’t mimic what’s

done in Italy without the right ingredients.”

but living in new york is definitely a bonus

in terms of getting your hands on just about

anything.

white credits superstar chefs and the

evolution of the Food network with

the heightened appreciation for food

stateside. “People are really keyed up

on food; just look at the proliferation of

television shows and food magazines, and

Slow Food organizations like Terra Madre.”

with the explosion of greenmarkets, white

feels fortunate to have the likes of heirloom

fruits and vegetables at his fingertips right

in the city.

“It’s actually easier to get a variety of

real Italian ingredients in New York than

in a small town in Italy. If you need a

Caciocavallo from Campania or a Tolecha

from Lombardia, it’s simpler to walk down

to Murray’s Cheese than to source it when

you’re living in say, Bologna.”

however, applying the same techniques

he learned in France and america to great

ingredients allows white to sometimes

work with produce that isn’t always

inherently italian. “Take corn for example,

I incorporate it into our dishes because if

Italians had corn they would definitely put

it into the mix, perhaps sautéing it with a

‘Soffritto’ of pancetta, onions and garlic.”

as dishes tend to be heavier in italy than americans

are used to in their dietary regimens, white adjusts

recipes accordingly.

“New Yorkers go out to dinner regularly, some even

nightly. If I served a real Fontina cheese fonduta from

Valdosta, I’d literally ‘whack’ my customers with too

much richness.” instead white substitutes hot chicken

broth for the eggs, and buzzes parmesan cheese and

extra virgin oil together with an immersion blender,

instead of heavy cream. “We make lighter fondutas,

lighter tomato sauces, because if you always cooked

stick-to-your-ribs food, you’d lose the lightness and

sexiness of Italian cuisine.”

not LoSt in trAnSLAtioncultural differences between europeans and americans extend deep into their kitchens, encompassing everything from recipe preparation and dining rituals to food presentation. michael white pays careful consideration to his new york clientele by attentively adopting and adapting italian-style dishes to the american palate and plate.

f a l l 2 0 0 7 • c o n v i v i o8

good company in

campaniaEarlier this year, chef Michael White invited owner chris cannon and chefs de cuisine Kevin Sippel (Alto) and craig Wallen (L’impero) to campania in italy. During the course of their intense stay there, White set up tours of artisanal producers and vineyards with the intention of creating taste memories.

“People try to pour too much into trips to Europe. I like

to focus on one region and delve into it. I wanted to

show the guys the hot spots in Campania, have them

eat ricotta and mozzarella direct from the dairy so they

could really taste it.” taste memories created from real

experiences with italian ingredients: seeing the actual

ground they grow in, the hands that pick them, the

places that lovingly package them.

vanullo, one of the finest buffalo milk producers, is

located in paestum, where the greek ruins in southern

italy are found. “To eat fresh mozzarella there, to tear

into it and have milk dripping down your arms, it’s like

falling in love for the first time,” michael reminisces

affectionately.

and how could you be affected so deeply by the food

and not translate that firsthand into those in-between

spaces in a recipe? “My guys all know how to cook,

they know technique, but ingredients and memories

are what I really wanted to instill in them. So many

times people put ingredients on a plate with no real

knowledge of them. For a kitchen to have soul, you

have to eat, sleep, live and die this.”

chef white is particularly excited about italian wineries

that he feels are really going back to basics. “Years

ago, Italians started making wines that were palatable

to the Americans to break into that market: aging them

in wood and trying to make them taste like a California

Chardonnay. Enough with those big oaky wines; now

they’re going back to more traditional techniques.”

rEStAurAnt picK: nonna Sceppa“This is break-your-legs food, absolutely delicious! We were eating real fusilli made with tomato

sauce and ricotta, fried zucchini blossoms filled with buffalo mozzarella with anchovy and basil.

All these things were amazing.”

Muzzo, a local delicacy, veal muzzle boiled and served sliced with Sorennto lemon

Kevin Sippel, Michael White and craig Wallen

t r a v e l

c o n v i v i o • f a l l 2 0 0 7

mozzarella d i buFala

one of the highlights of our trip to campania this past summer was our visit to the Agriturismo Seliano, a working buffalo farm in the province of paestum just south of Amalfi. the owner, Ettore belleli, provided us with excellent accommodations, a wonderful tour of the farm and lessons in buffalo husbandry. We also sampled numerous local specialties, including buffalo steaks. the main purpose of our stay, however, was to explore the history and the production of one of the glories of the South of italy, mozzarella di bufala.“real” mozzarella is produced from the

milk of the asian water buffalo, which was

introduced to the italian peninsula by the

goths in the 7th century. in medieval times,

the buffalo was primarily used as a draught

animal as it was superior to local oxen in

plowing the compact and watery terrain

found south of napoli and roma. however,

mozzarella did not gain wide acceptance

until the late 18th century.

real mozzarella di bufala is considered one

of the world’s greatest “fresh” cheeses. it

is meant to be consumed within 3-5 days

of production. the name is derived from

the word “mozzare,” which means ‘to

lop off or cut’, and refers to the method of

production by hand. it is only produced in

seven provinces in the center and south of

italy: caserta, salerno, benevento, Frosinone,

napoli, latina and roma. we observed the

process firsthand at the finest producer of

mozzarella in all of italy, caseificio vanullo in

paestum.

vanullo produces only 600 kg. of mozzarella

per day, all of which is exclusively sold at the

azienda. they also have an excellent café

where one can sample ice cream, yoghurt

and butter, all made from buffalo milk.

buying tipS:Mozzarella di bufala is sold in a variety of shapes,

which include small balls (bocconcini), plump

spheres, and larger braids (treccia). We discovered

that the larger the piece of mozzarella, the longer

you can expect it to keep, with a maximum shelf-

life of one week. it should always appear milky-

white in color with a lightly elastic shell, and should

ooze pearls of milky whey when cut. of course,

“Mozzarella di bufala campana” should be printed

on the package as it is a product that is strictly

controlled by the Doc Laws of italy and the EEc.

When serving mozzarella, as with all cheeses, make

sure to bring it up to room temperature in order to

make the most of all its flavors.

f a l l 2 0 0 7 • c o n v i v i o10

73579

PEG_PER_06016K_D_1D1.INDD

02

7/28/06

133

Ad No.: SAN-06-2 Job No.: PEGPER.06016.K.011Ad Title: Classic Chic

This advertisement prepared by: Ogilvy & MatherTo appear in: Chicago, Sunset, Cooking Light, Bon Appetit, Food & WIne, Food & Drink,

Flavours, Le Guide Cuisine, Standard PubsSize: P4CB Color: CMYK Scale: 1:1 Gutter: None

Bleed: 9.125 in x 11.5 in Trim/Live: 8 in x 10.5 in Type Safety: 7 in x 10 inArt Director: C. Dronsfi eld Copywriter: None

Account Exec: M. Fein Print Producer: J. Gregorio Traffi c: B. RatzerEngraver: Extreme

GSI No.: PEG_PER_06016K_D_1D1.indd

At finer restaurants in Paris, London, New York and of course, Milan.

© 2

00

6 N

estlé

Wat

ers

Nor

th A

mer

ica

Inc.

c o n v i v i o • f a l l 2 0 0 7 11

stay, eat and drink in

campaniahotELSin Sant’Agata dè goti, a wonderful Medieval town inland in benevento:

Azienda Agricola Mustilli via dei Fiori 20 82019 sant’agata dè goti tel. 39 0823 718142 email: info@mustilli.com

on the Amalfi coast in the town of Furore:

hotel bacco via g.b. lama, 9 Furore amalfi tel. 39 089 83 03 60 email: info@baccofurore.it

in paestum on the buffalo farm:

Azienda Agrituristica Seliano via seliano, paestum (salerno) tel. 39 0828 724544 email: seliano@agriturismoseliano.it

vinEyArDSFeudi di San gregorio Aziende Agricole località cerza grossa 83050 sorbo serpico avellino tel. 39 0825 986611

Mastroberardino atripalda italia 83042 tel. 39 0825 614111 email: mastro@mastroberardino.com

viticoltori De conciliis località Querce, 1 84060 prignano, cilento email: info@viticoltorideconciliis.it

Marisa cuomo via g.b. lama 14, Furore tel. 39 089 830348 email: info@granfuror.com

rEStAurAntSModern:

ristorante papacarbone via rosario senatore 30, cava dei tirreni tel. 39 089 466441

traditional:

nonna Sceppa via laura 53, cappacio - paestum tel. 39 0828 851064 email: nsceppa@paestum.com

f a l l 2 0 0 7 • c o n v i v i o12

g a r g a n e l l i c o n p r o s c i u t t o , p i s e l l i e c r e m a pasta Q u i lls w i th san dan iele prosc iutto , peas and c ream

r e c i p e s

i n g r E D i E n t S 1 pound fresh garganelli pasta

1 1/2 c heavy cream

8 oz san daniele prosciutto, julienned

8 tbs truffle butter

1 c fresh peas

1 tbs white truffle oil, optional

kosher salt

1/4 c freshly grated parmigiano-reggiano

in this savory dish, tubular quills, or garganelli, are bathed

in a luxurious prosciutto-scented, truffled cream sauce

and tossed with peas and parmigiano-reggiano cheese.

it’s the perfect pasta for this kind of dish because the

ridges capture every last drop of flavor and the short

shape complements the creamy sauce.

garganelli originated in the romagna region of italy. the

name comes from the latin word “gargala,” meaning

trachea or windpipe. while the elongated tubes are

similar to penne, the ridges in garganelli are horizontal,

not vertical.

imported san daniele prosciutto is lower in salt than

most products made in america, so the dishes don’t

taste overly salty.

bring a large pot of salted water to a boil.

stir in the pasta, cook until almost al dente,

3 to 4 minutes, then drain. (if using dried

pasta, cook for 10 to 11 minutes.)

meanwhile, combine the cream and prosciutto

in a heavy saucepan and bring to a simmer

over medium heat.

add the peas, truffle butter, if using, and

reserved pasta; turn the heat to high and

cook until the sauce coats the pasta, shaking

the pan vigorously to prevent sticking.

season to taste with salt, add the grated

cheese and toss. serve immediately.

Serves 4

cooking pasta if you can’t buy fresh garganelli, substitute with a high-

quality purchased pasta, such as those from barilla,

available at most supermarkets. if garganelli is not

available, use penne rigate or your favorite short pasta.

many people read on a box of pasta that they

should cook it for 11 to 12 minutes to be al

dente. little do they realize that if pasta is

drained at that point and put into the sauce,

it will easily sit in there for up to 15 minutes

before hitting the table. by then, the pasta

will be overcooked and won’t combine

correctly with the sauce.

i like to remove pasta 2 to 3 minutes before

it’s done, then toss it in the sauce to allow the

sauce to soak into the pasta.

c o n v i v i o • f a l l 2 0 0 7 13

b r a n z i n o i n a c Q u a pa z z a

s e a b a s s i n “ c r a z y w at e r ”

i n g r E D i E n t S 4 tbs extra-virgin olive oil, divided

6 cloves garlic, bruised, divided

1 or 2 lbs non-oily fish bones, rinsed or 4 cups shrimp shells

1 large onion, coarsely chopped

4 c peeled, seeded, and diced tomatoes

2 tbs tomato paste

1/4 tsp chili pepper flakes

kosher salt

water

4 7-ounce sea bass fillets

12 large shrimp, peeled and deveined

4 garlic crostini

Some neapolitan fishermen throw their first catch of the day into a little brazier on board their boats, and cook the fish in “crazy water,” or sea water with pepper and spices in it. in my version of this simple summertime fisherman’s stew, i obviously take the dish to the next level by poaching the fish in broth and serving it on garlic-rubbed croutons.

i suggest you use fresh tomatoes here, since you want a light, drinkable broth for the fish. canned tomatoes will make the liquid pulpy. Ask your seafood store to save the bones of non-oily white fish for the stock.

heat 2 tablespoons of the olive oil in a large

deep casserole over medium heat. add 4

cloves of garlic and cook for 2 to 3 minutes,

then stir in the fish bones, onion, and 2 cups

of the tomatoes. reduce heat and simmer for

45 minutes to 1 hour, until the bones are very

soft. stir in the tomato paste, chili flakes, and

a pinch of salt. cover with water and simmer

for 1 hour longer, then pass through a fine

strainer.

Serves 4

heat the remaining 2 tablespoons of olive oil in a large,

deep skillet over medium-high heat. add the remaining

2 cloves of garlic and cook gently for 2 minutes. pour the

fish broth into the pan, stirring up any browned cooking

bits. then add the remaining tomatoes and sea bass.

poach the fillets for 3 to 4 minutes. add the shrimp and

continue cooking until the fillets are just opaque and

the shrimp cooked through, about 6 to 7 minutes total

cooking time.

put the crostini in 4 warmed flat soup bowls. place a

fillet on each crostini, divide the shrimp evenly, spoon

the shrimp broth over the fish, and serve.

f a l l 2 0 0 7 • c o n v i v i o

The Appellation Of An Oyster

There’s even use of a new word: “merroir” (of the sea), a

derivative from the French term “terroir,” which denotes the

geographical (of the earth) location of a vine. Each oyster’s

unique flavor profile is a combination of genetics (species

and size) and location. Even more, the same species of

oyster can vary dramatically in flavor from bay to bay, much

like wine that comes from the same grape in two different

vineyards. They all look slightly different with respect to

fluting, shape, shell and color, and each picks up specific

essences from the estuaries it was grown in. Variables

include temperature and salinity of the water, and the

abundance and type of flora and minerals they ingest.

So if there is a Château Pétrus of the shellfish industry, some

would say it is Taylor Shellfish Farms, based in Washington.

Harvesting heritage counts and that puts Taylor Shellfish

Farms a good century ahead of most, with over 100 years’

worth of experience cultivating and collecting oysters. At

the turn of the 20th century, founder J. Y. Waldrip traded

searching for gold in the Great Northwest for farming jewels

of the sea: shellfish. In the 1920s, over-harvesting and

pollution forced Northwest farmers to start raising their

own oysters. The Taylors experimented with species from

other parts of the country, the world even, cultivating them

until they started to propagate. By replenishing the once-

depleted oyster beds, Taylor Shellfish Farms was not only a

precursor to sustainable farming but expandable farming

too.

Today, Taylor Shellfish Farms grows more species of oysters

commercially from hatchery-produced seed than any other

company in the country. They own close to 10,000 acres of

tidelands dotted up and down the Washington state coast

line, concentrated heavily in the Puget Sound–where they

cultivate half the production for that area.

Like any great cellar master, a shellfish farmer leaves little

to chance. That’s the case with Taylor Shellfish Farms’

president, Jeff Pearson, who has it down to a science, from

“seed” (oyster larvae) to full fledged triploid (sexless oyster).

In their hi-tech hatcheries, they simulate the optimal

growing environment for the larvae, graduating them to

floating nurseries where they feast on organic micro-algae

these days, the methods for growing and harvesting oysters come close to that of making a great wine, so to speak. the recipe for producing great shellfish

has become part art, part science, with a good salt-water splash of mother nature. the comparisons to wine only begin with cultivation. to the pleasure and

delight of our palates, oysters have become a more refined and defined commodity.

oyster myths and misconceptions:

until they are 1/2 inch to an inch in size. Then they are

seeded high in tidelands where they can fatten up without

fear of predators. One summer later, when the shells have

hardened, the muscles are strong, and the oysters have

some size, they are finally transferred to the beds that they

will grow out on. The result is an oyster that has weathered

2-3 growing seasons in peak conditions–and you can really

taste sublime nuances of its watery residence. “Having

our own hatcheries and tidelands give us better control of

the product we choose to grow as well as the quality and

volume we can maintain.”

What’s most important to Jeff Pearson is that the

consumer gets a consistent, fresh and delectable product.

So the next time you feast on oysters, take a moment to

digest the unique watery path that brought it to you.

For more information please contact:

Nellie@wtseafoodusa.com

or visit www.taylorshellfish.com

Why oyStErS ArE viEWED AS An AphroDiSiAc: oysters spend 60% of their body fat and energy reproducing during their lifetime. considering how high that percentage is, it initiated the theory that eating them would increase a person’s sexual desire.

EAting oyStErS onLy in ‘r” MonthS: this dates back to roman times when oysters were first being cultivated. the Mediterranean waters in the summer are warm, which encourages oysters to spawn and lose the firmness in their meat. During their reproduction periods, an oyster’s meat becomes milky and soft. however, the water temperature even in May and June in the northwest and northeast of the united States is definitely cooler. And with the advent of triploid sterilized oysters, eating them year round is now completely appropriate.

c o n v i v i o • f a l l 2 0 0 7 15

F r o m t h e v i n e

italy is home to two indigenous “noble” red grapes. nebbiolo is considered by many to be the finest grape in italy while Aglianico is often overlooked. While it is not my intention to make a case for Aglianico as italy’s greatest red grape, it is important to gain an appreciation for what it has to offer. in wine-speak, a “noble” wine refers to one that is potentially superior in quality with respect to age-worthiness and structure. its global colleagues include pinot noir, cabernet Sauvignon, cabernet Franc and Merlot.

Aglianico is steeped in history. pope paul iii’s personal physician (16th

century) noted its “perfume,” describing

it as “pleasant” and praising its “elevated

nourishing power.” it was at this time that

aglianico got its name. before the 16th

century, it was referred to as “ellenico”

or “ellenica,” suggesting a greek origin.

however, in 2000, attilio scienza, a professor

of horticulture at the university of milan,

found no genetic relationship between

aglianico and all known greek grapes.

although found throughout southern italy,

aglianico thrives in two very distinct areas:

taurasi, a small village in avellino, campania

(where docg wine is produced), and in

northern basilicata, near venosa (where

aglianico del vulture doc is produced).

aglianico is one of the last red grapes to be

harvested each year in italy. this is partly due

to the fact that these vineyards are in cool,

high-altitude areas. this extended time on the

vine allows the grapes to develop balanced,

complex aromatics. in both regions, the

aglianico grape displays high levels of

acidity, spiciness, and elevated levels of

soft tannins. and wines produced from

both areas are obligated to have a garnet

“granato” color. in the case of taurasi, it

must be fine garnet, or “granato fino,” and

in the case of aglianico del vulture, it must

be lively garnet, or “granato vivace.”

until recently, taurasi was the only docg

(denominazione di origine controllata e

garantita) in southern italy. to qualify for

this top-tier wine classification, the wine

must follow a strict set of rules that include

how and where the grapes can be raised,

aging (three years with at least one in cask),

and a minimum level of alcohol (12%).

samples must be tasted and approved by

the ministry of agriculture. to put “riserva” on the label,

the wine must be aged for a minimum of four years (18

months in cask) and have 12.5% alcohol.

Aglianico from taurasi has intense aromatics of dark fruits, soft tannins and crisp acidity. producers are only obliged to put 85%

aglianico into taurasi, the remainder being approved

non-aromatic local grapes. in practice, however, most

producers use 100%. among the best traditional

producers in the area, you’ll find mastroberardino,

terredora and caggiano. mastroberardino’s taurasi

riserva 1968 is one of the greatest red wines ever

agl ianicoa noble grape

f a l l 2 0 0 7 • c o n v i v i o16

produced in italy. the fruit and earth are totally integrated,

leaving a crumpled silk impression on the palate with

a hint of smoked meat and spicy plum. another great

producer, whose style involves riper fruit and more oak,

is Feudi di san gregorio. Feudi di san gregorio’s taurasi

montevergine 1999 is a ripe fruit-expressive wine with

approachable tannins that is enjoyable now and will last

for decades.

in contrast, aglianico del vulture is the only doc

(denominazione di origine controllata) in basilicata.

this region is located in the northern corner of basilicata,

where it converges with campania and puglia. the

vineyards are primarily located in and around the extinct

volcano, mount vulture. wines from this doc must be

100% aglianico and have a natural potential alcohol of

11.5%. at 200 to 700 meters, these are some of the

coolest vineyards in italy. in addition to the altitude, the

vineyards are shaded, to some degree, by surrounding

mountains. this and the volcanic soil not only guarantee

crisp acidity, but allow the wines to develop a delicacy

and a brighter fruit profile not found in taurasi. these

wines generally don’t age quite as long, but drink

well earlier. some of the better known producers are

d’angelo (rustic and satisfying), paternoster, terre degli

sevi/re manfredi and tenuta le Querce (sometimes

oaky, but always well made).

closer to the coast of campania in cilento, bruno De conciliis is producing wines that are worthy of mention. these wines are produced

outside the areas that define taurasi and

aglianico del vulture, but are some of the

best aglianico-based wines made in italy.

warm weather, somewhat mitigated by

vineyard altitude, and aggressive vineyard

management allow for riper, more robust

wines than are found inland. “naima” is the

standard-bearer of de conciliis production.

French oak barrel aging allows for sublime

integration of tannins and the rich, smoky

fruit. most of the quality-obsessed aglianico

producers now use French oak barrels as

opposed to the chestnut barrels used in

the past. if you want to try one of the most

expressive, palate-pounding aglianicos, the

“zero” is a memorable experience.

pAiringSgiven the potential weight, tannins and high acidity of Aglianicos, there are a couple of guidelines to follow when pairing these wines with food. the most basic pairing rule applies: what is the traditional fare of the region? Lamb, pork and fowl are all abundant in southern italy. Around the time Aglianico got its name, tomatoes were introduced to italy (but it wasn’t until much later that they were adopted as a staple). chef Michael White, of Alto and L’impero, suggests braised meats with tomatoes as an ideal dish with Aglianico. the intensity of the dish should reflect the intensity of the wine (i.e. lighter preparations for the Aglianico Del vulture). the herbaceousness of Aglianico complements eggplant, peppers and herbs common to campania. if you’re adventurous, try a preparation that involves fig or chocolate!

c o n v i v i o • f a l l 2 0 0 7 17

b e h i n d t h e b a r

put the following in a cocktail shaker: 1 tbs simple syrup

1 tbs lime juice

small hand full of mint

2 oz veloce liqueur

cover and shake vigorously.

pour into an old fashioned glass filled with ice.

Add 1 oz prosecco

1 oz club soda

Alto’s bartender, Amy Minty, has developed a cocktail that puts an italian twist on a modern classic. it’s quick, easy and

delicious. great for any time of the year!

alto moJito by amy minty

f a l l 2 0 0 7 • c o n v i v i o18

publisher MIChael GOldMaN

editor-in-chief pamela Jouan

design director Jana potashnik bairdesign, inc.

managing editor christian kappner

assistant editor stephane henrion

senior copy editor JenniFer murphy

assistant copy editor miriam Fried

contributing writers pamela Jouan gabriel asher

photo director charles harris

advertising advertising@hautelifepress.com

marketing director katherine payne

haute life press a division of c-bon media, llc. 321 dean street suite 1 brooklyn, ny 11217

www.hautelifepress.com info@hautelifepress.com

subscription inquiries 718.858.1187

subscriptions@hautelifepress.com or visit www.hautelifepress.com

hautelifepress makes every effort to insure that the information it publishes is correct but cannot be held responsible for any errors or omissions.

printed and bound in the u.s.a © 2007 all rights reserved. reproduction without permission is strictly prohibited.

From the publisher, haute notes is about the discovery of all things innovative and exciting in food and wine,

art and design, and style and travel.

haute notes

SMEg

it’s not hard to fall for

these sleekly designed,

50s-style “retro”

refrigerators with dreamy

curved corners and a

palate of colors that

add just the right splash

to any kitchen (pastel

blue or lime green,

anyone?) Finally this

italian company (name

formed from the initials

of their metal-enameling

factory in reggio emilia,

italy) is stateside. we’ve

been waiting on these

after spotting them in

european magazines over

the past few years…

www.smegusa.com

La tourangelle roasted Walnut oil

la tourangelle brings its products–and a new mill– stateside. the 150-year old French artisan oil-mill that continues to produce uniquely flavored nut oils in time-honored tradition, now has a sister-mill based in california, complete with custom fabricating century-old equipment and a French oil roasting master to train the staff. the result: new offerings from nuts picked from neighboring orchards, sun-dried and hand-roasted before cold-pressed and light-filtered. For fall, we love the roasted walnut oil. this highly versatile oil pairs with just about everything—from salads to grilled meats—or just on its own with bread! www.latourangelle.com

10 cane rum

ginger Smash

ingredients:

1 1/2 oz 10 cane rum

3/4 oz luxardo maraschino liqueur

3/4 oz berentzen apple liqueur

1/2 oz fresh squeezed lime juice

2 matchbox sized pieces

of fresh pineapple

2 long, thin slices of

fresh ginger root

1 tsp bar sugar

garnish: pineapple leaf

directions:

muddle pineapple, ginger and sugar in

the bottom of a mixing glass until they

turn into a consistent paste. add the rest

of the ingredients and fill the mixing

glass halfway with ice. shake briefly and

pour unstrained into a rocks or old-

fashioned glass.

garnish with a pineapple leaf.

Ad No.: AQU-06-1 SAP No.: PEGPEL.06004.K.011Ad Title: Acqua Panna

This advertisement prepared by: Ogilvy & MatherTo appear in: ConvivioSize: page Color: 4/c

Bleed: 8.5 in x 11.375 in Trim: 8.25 in x 10.875 in Safety: 7.625 in x 10 in Scale: 1:1 Actual Trim: Same as trim Gutter: None

Creative Director: N/A Art Director: N/A Copywriter: N/AAccount Exec: N/A Print Producer: J. Gregorio Traffi c: B. Ratzer

Engraver: Hudson YardsREDWORKSNEWYORK Filename: PEG_PEL_06004K_1A1 .indd

20106_0

THE PRIDE OF TUSCANY SINCE 1927, LUSH AND LUMINOUS ACQUA PANNA FROM S.PELLEGRINO IS THE PERFECT COMPLEMENT TO FINE FOOD AND WINE.

A WATER THAT BELONGS ON THE WINE LIST.

© 2

006

Nes

tlé W

ater

s N

orth

Am

eric

a, In

c.