Chapter 15

(2012 Edition)

Scalp Care, Shampooing,

& Conditioning

•client

~ judgments about surroundings

•the shampoo:

~ heavenly

~ forgettable

~ nightmare

•First (preliminary) step for services

Add to the side bar:

has a psychological impact Nadinesalons.com

Encompases:

•Scalp care

•Massage

•Shampooing

•Conditioning

*Soothing

* pleasurable

•sets the mood

•quality relaxation time

•happy with shampoo

~ happy with entire visit

Read: Why Study….

Nbcaugusta.com

Scalp Massage

•healthy scalp

~ cleanliness

~ stimulation

•Manipulations used

in scalp treatments

and ***shampooing

media.lvrj.com/images/2785958.jpg

Scalp treatments: •Given with a continuous even motion

•Stimulate the scalp

•Help to relax the client

•Do not massage or manipulate a client’s scalp if abrasions are present

Scalp massage is performed:

1.Before a shampoo if a scalp condition is apparent

2.During the shampoo (once the conditioner has been applied) for relaxation

Procedure 15-11 Page 338

Difference between Relaxation and Treatment: •Are the products that are used•Follow all manufacturer’s directions

•Knowing the location of:

~ muscles

~ blood vessels

~ nerve points

scalp and neck

~ areas that benefit

from massage movements

Read: FYI

www.bartleby.com/107/Images/small/image378.jpg

Normal Hair and Scalp Treatment

•Recommended after a hair and scalp examination

•Given either before or after the shampoo

•Depending on which treatment is given

Dry Hair and Scalp Treatments

•Deficiency of natural oil

•Use scalp preparations with moisturizing and emollient ingredients

•Avoid: strong soaps, mineral- or sulfonated-oil base, greasy or high alcohol content

•Use a scalp steamer or hooded dryer

•Procedure 15-4 page 329

Oily Hair and Scalp Treatment

•Manipulate scalp

•Increases blood circulation to the surface

•Hardened sebum will be removed with gentle pressing or squeezing

•Procedure 15-5 page 330

Antidandruff Treatment

•Antidandruff shampoos, conditioners, and lotions control dandruff

•Moisturizing salon treatments soften and loosen scales

•Recommend additional salon treatments and antidandruff home care

•Procedure 15-5 page 331 Read “Service Tip”

Brushing the Hair

Correct hair brushing:

1. Stimulates the blood circulation to the scalp

2. Helps remove dust, dirt and hair spray buildup from the hair

3. Gives hair added shine

• Include before every shampoo and scalp treatment

• Examine scalp for abrasions and infections

Four exceptions to HAIR brushing:

•Do not brush before a chemical service

•Do not brush if the scalp is irritated

Add: Do not brush wet hair

NO brushing, shampooing, or massaging the scalp prior to:

~ single-process and double-process haircolor

~ highlighting

~ most chemical relaxers (FMD)

~ some temporary rinses

~ semipermanent haircolor (FMD)

*If recommended, gently shampoo to avoid scalp irritation (especially prior to permanent wave)

• Natural (boar) bristle brushes have tiny overlapping layers

• Cleans and adds luster to the hair

• Nylon bristles are shiny and smooth

• More suitable to hairstyling

Not on test, however important

Add: never use a comb to loosen scales-can tear off skin and cause bleeding

Understanding Shampoo

•analyze

~ hair and scalp

Check for:

•dry, dehydrated hair

•Thinning

•excessive hair

~ left in the sink

•dry, tight scalp

•oily scalp

www.aderans.com.sg/images/1-p16.jpg

Cme.medscape.com

•abnormal flaking

•open wounds

•scalp irritations

•scalp disorders or diseases

~ tick or lice infestation

www.bosleymedical.com/wp-content/uploads/2009...

•alert the stylist

~ any hair or scalp conditions

•infectious disease is never treated

~ referred to a physician

•cleanse the hair and scalp prior to services

•home care

•quality hair care products

•remove all:

dirt oils cosmetics skin debris

•cleanse regularly

~ combat oils

~ perspiration

~ dirt

~ breeding ground for disease-producing bacteria

•shampoo as often as necessary

•excessive:

~ strips protective oil (sebum)

•oily hair shampooed more often

Add to side bar: Shampoo products account for the highest dollar expenditure in hair care products

Selecting the Proper Shampoo

•skilled at selecting shampoos

•read the labels

•make informed decisions

•recommend home-care items

•select a shampoo

~ condition of hair and scalp

•oily, dry, normal, or chemically treated

•Be aware:

~ has the hair been treated with a chemical service

(lightened, colored, permed,

chemically treated)

~ abused by harsh shampoos

~ damaged by improper care

~ exposed to the elements

www.ourvanity.com/images/damaged-hair.jpg

www.enviroblog.org/hair.jpg

•right home-care products

~ makes all the difference

~ looks, feels, and behaves

•wrong product choice

~ good haircut look bad

•affects outcome of chemical services

Alibaba.com

Hairsalon-windsor.co.uk

Sleekhair.com

Duelle.co.za

Tuscanysalon.com

***only professional products

*guaranteed when purchased in a salon

*can only guarantee your chemical services if professional products are used at home.

•client’s

~ good advertising for you

Pure Substances and Physical Mixtures

•All matter classified as a pure substance or a physical mixture

•Pure substance:* a chemical combination of matter in definite proportions* has unique properties* example: Distilled water

*tap (faucet) water is not pure water

Physical mixture:*physical combination of matter in any

proportions

*combined properties of the substances in the mixture

*example: salt water

Most of the products used by cosmetologists and nail technicians/estheticians are physical mixtures

Solutions, Suspensions, and Emulsions•All physical mixtures

~ difference between:

*size of the particles

*solubility of the substance

Solution:

~ two or more mixable substances

Solute:

~ substance dissolved in a solution

Solvent:

~ dissolves the solute and makes the solution

Water: the universal solvent

Miscible liquids

~ mutually soluble

* mixed into stable solutions

ex. water and alcohol

•Stays mixed-forms a solution

•They do not separate

•Ex. Salt water

Immiscible liquids

~ not mixed into stable solutions

ex. water and oil

Suspensions

~ unstable mixture of undissolved particles

~ separate over time

*some lotions and creams-needs to be shaken

ex. glitter nail polish

oil and vinegar salad dressing

calamine lotion

nail polish

www.polyvore.com/cgi/img-thing?.out=jpg&size=...

Emulsions

~ unstable mixture of two or more immiscible substances

~ plus an emulsifier

* brings two incompatible materials and binds them into a fairly stable blend

~ separate over time

~ stable for at least three years

*cosmetics should be used within one year

Name two examples of an emulsifier in hair care products.

Surfactants

~ allow oil and water to mix

The term=“surface active agent”

• Head of the surfactant molecule is

Hydrophilic = water-loving

•Tail is

Lipophilic = oil-loving

Fig. 12-8

www.pg.com/.../hair_twh_133/hair_133_02.jpg

Oil-in-water emulsion

~ oil is emulsified in water

*do not feel greasy

Read “Did You Know”

Ex. Mayonnaise

~egg yolk emulsifies the oil and the water

Used in salons: Haircolor, shampoos, conditioners, hand creams, and facial creams

www.cachebeauty.com/Body_Drench/body_drench_t...

www.stuff4beauty.com/images2/socolor.jpg

Water-in-oil emulsions

~ water emulsified in oil

* feels greasy

ex. Cold cream, styling creams, foot balms

2.bp.blogspot.com/.../UcgK1KtniDk/s320/ponds.jpg

riggas.com/images/hydrating300.jpg

Other Physical Mixtures

•Ointments, pastes, pomades, and styling waxes-semi solid mixtures

•Made with petroleum jelly, oil, and wax

•Off-the-Scalp powdered lighteners are physical mixtures

Other common product ingredients are:

Volatile alcohols

~ evaporate easily

* isopropyl alcohol (rubbing)

*ethyl (hairspray)

Fatty alcohols: (nonvolatile alcohol waxes)

cetyl alcohol

cetearyl alcohol

*Skin and hair conditionerswww.getprice.com.au/.../851/350__1_1499052-1.jpg

Alkanolamines

~ neutralize acids

~ raise pH of products

~ used in place of ammonia

* less odor

www.salonsupplies.co.uk/dyn/product/large_pro...

Ammonia

~ raises pH in products

~ allows solution to penetrate hair shaft

ex. Ammonium hydroxide (chemical relaxer)

ammonium thioglycolate (perm solution)

Glycerin

~ moisturizer in skin and body creams

Silicones

~ type of oil in conditioners and skin, nail products

~ less greasy

~ does not cause comedones

~ silky smooth feel on skin

~ shine to hairwww.thebeautyshoppe.com/Products/Images/power...

Volatile organic compounds (VOC’s)

~ evaporate very quickly

ex. Hairspray

* SD alcohol (ethyl alcohol)

Volatile organic solvents

*ethyl acetate

*isopropyl alcohols

Ex. Nail polish, base and top coats

polish removersdailyvitamin.typepad.com/.a/6a010536308b66970...

Potential Hydrogen (pH)

•small p =quantity

•capital H =the hydrogen ion

Add to the side bar: potential hydrogen

Understanding pH

~ affects hair, skin, and nails

~ all salon services

Water and pH

Ion

~ an atom or molecule

~ carries an electrical charge

Ionization

~ separation of an atom or molecule

~into positive and negative

electrical charges

Hairstraightening.net

Anion

~ ion

~ negative electrical charge

Cation

~ ion

~ positive electrical charge

Water molecules ionize

~ hydrogen ions

~ hydroxide ions

pH scale measures these ions

Hydrogen ions are acidic

Hydroxide ions are alkaline (base)

Acid 1

4

Neutral

Alkaline 14

www.blobs.org/science/chemistry/ph1.gif

www.brooklyn.cuny.edu/.../dissociation.gif

*only products that contain water can have a pH

Add:

oil and wax cannot be dissolved with water (no pH)

*pure water is neutral pH

-equal balance of acid and alkaline

The pH Scale

•measures

~ acidity (below 7 acidic)

~ alkalinity (base) of a substance

(above 7 alkaline)

•Range from 0-14

•pH of 7 is a neutral solution

Next slide:everyday foods/products

Trc.ucdavis.edu

Below 7 acidic solution

Above 7 alkaline solution

Note: strengths

•Logarithm

~ multiples of 10

•pH is a Logarithmic scale

•Two whole numbers

10x10=100 times more acidic or alkaline

10 10 x 10=100

pHschool.com

•Pure water 100 times more alkaline than hair

Pure water

~ hair to swell as much as 20%

~ drying to the skin

0 5 6 7 14

Hair pure

Skin water

neutral

Acids and Alkalis

Acids-below pH 7.0

***turns litmus paper

~ blue to red

Alpha hydroxy acids:

•Derived from plants (mostly fruits)

•Acids used in salons exfoliate the skin and adjust the pH of lotions and creams

*contract and harden the hair

*thioglycolic acid

~ permanent waving solution

•Alkalis

“alkali” and “base”

~ interchangeable

*hydroxide ion

*pH above 7

~ litmus paper from red to blue

*feels slippery and soapy on the skin

*softens and swells

~ hair, skin, cuticle, and calloused skin

*sodium hydroxide (13 or higher on pH scale)

~ lye

~ very strong alkali

~ drain cleaners

~ chemical hair relaxers

Determine how many times stronger sodium hydroxide is to hair.

FYI

A chemical relaxer is 100,000,000 times stronger than the hair

•Same strength as Drain cleaner

•Short processing time

•Drying to the hair

•Can disintegrate the hair if too strong for the hair’s texture

Follow manufacturer’s directions

•Do not let product touch or sit on the skin

•Where safety glasses to avoid eye contact.

•Consult MSDS

Acid-Alkali Neutralization Reactions

•Acids and alkalis in equal proportions-neutralize each other-forms water

•Neutralizing shampoos and normalizing lotions (used in chemical relaxers) neutralize hair relaxers•Liquid soaps neutralize callous softener residues

A basic understanding of chemistry will help you use professional products effectively and safely in the salon.

Acid-Alkali Neutralization Reactions

•acids and alkalis

~ equal proportions

~ neutralize to form water

•neutralizing shampoos/normalizing lotions

~ neutralize hydroxide relaxers

~ acid-alkali neutralization reaction

The pH scale page 313

•understanding pH

~ select the proper shampoo

•acidic shampoo

~ 0 - 6.9

•alkaline shampoo

~ pH rating of 7.1 or higher

•more alkaline

~ stronger and harsher

•leaves the hair

~ dry

~ brittle

~ porous

~ cause fading in color-treated hair

•slightly acidic shampoo

~ more closely matches the ideal pH of hair

Focus On…

The pH Scale•Acid: 0 – 6.9•Neutral: 7.0•Alkaline: 7.1 – 14

Project-Litmus paper testAcid :turns Litmus paper from blue to redAlkalis: turns Litmus paper from red to blue

Add to the side bar: page 314

The human body is made up of

approximately 70% water and

water covers almost 75% of the

Earth’s surface

The Chemistry of Water

• most abundant and important element on Earth

• “universal solvent”

~ dissolves more substances than any other solvent

• fresh water

~ purified by sedimentation

~ filtration

• chlorine is added to kill bacteria

•Boiling

~ 212 degrees F destroys most microbes

•Distillation

~ heat water to a vapor

~ condense the purified vapor

~ collect as a liquid

Duby.unl.edu/chem

• used in the manufacturing of cosmetics

• Water used for:

~ shampooing

~ mixing solutions

~ many other functions

The Chemistry of Water

•Purification– Sedimentation– Filtration– Chlorine– Boiling– Distillation

Review:

•classified as hard or soft

Soft water

~ rain water

~ chemically softened water

~ allows soap and shampoo to lather freely

~ preferred for shampooing

Hard water

~ contains minerals

~ reduced ability of shampoo to lather readily

~ may change the results of haircoloring services

***use demineralizing shampoo

The Chemistry of Shampoos

•understand

~ chemical and botanical ingredients

~ regularly found in shampoo

•Many shampoos have ingredients in common

•small differences in formulation makes one shampoo better than another for a particular hair texture or condition.

•Water is the main ingredient

~ purified

~ deionized

•Usually the first ingredient listed

•Ingredients are listed in descending order

Surfactants

•Second ingredient

~ surfactant

~ base detergent

~ cleansing

~ “surface active agent”

A surfactant molecule has two ends:

~ hydrophilic

~ water attracting “head”

~ lipophilic

~ oil attracting “tail”Pg.com/science/haircare/hair twh 120.htm

•creates a push-pull process

~ oils, dirt, and deposits

~ roll up into little balls

~ lifted off in the water

~ rinsed from the hair

Other ingredients added to surfactants

~wide variety

•Moisturizers

•Oils

•Proteins

•Preservatives

•Foam enhancers

•Perfumes

http://www.long-healthy-hair-advisor.com/shampoo-ingredients.html

Shampoo

Types of Shampoo

•shampoo product

~ most $ spent in hair care products

•be knowledgeable

~ products you are selling

•skilled in demonstrating their use

Your credibility

~ will be in question if client is better informed than you are

•shampoos for every type of hair or scalp condition

~ dry ~ oily

~ fine ~ coarse

~ limp ~ lightened

~ permed ~ relaxed

~ color-treated ~ chemically treated

~ deposit a slight amount of color

~ cleanse build-up or mineral deposits

List of ingredients determines:

~ shiny and manageable

~ treat a scalp or hair condition

~ prepare hair for a chemical treatment

www.discounthaircareproducts.com/.../t_296.jpg

pH-Balanced Shampoo

•4.5-5.5

•prevents excessive dryness

•hair damage during cleansing

•close the hair cuticle

•Recommended for color treated or lightened

Conditioning Shampoos

•Known as moisturizing shampoos

•make hair appear smooth and shiny

•improve manageability

•contains protein and biotin (conditioning agents)

These conditioning agents:

~ restore moisture

~ elasticity

~ strengthen the hair shaft

~ add volume

~ non-stripping

Keune.com

Medicated Shampoos

•reducing excessive dandruff

•relieving other scalp conditions

•some prescribed by physician

•quite strong

•could affect the color of tinted or lightened hair

•Remains on the scalp longer

•always read manufacturer’s

instructions Healthinajiffy.co.uk

Clarifying Shampoos

•Active chelating agent-binds to metals-removes from the hair

•Helps retain moisture

•Makes hair more manageable

•used when buildup

is evident (after swimming)

•Use prior to chemical services

**also called chelate shampoos Viewpoints.com

Matrixbeautiful.com

Balancing Shampoos

•for oily hair and scalp

•wash away excess oiliness

•prevents the hair from drying out

Southyarrahairdressingsupplies.com

Amazon.com

Searchfolica.com

Dry or Powder Shampoos

•wet shampoo uncomfortable

•hard to manage

•use a dry or powder shampoo

•picks up dirt and oils

•brush or comb it through the hair

•adds volume

•follow manufacturer’s instructions

•never use before a chemical service

Shopaholicsdaily.com

Applying Dry Shampoos

•follow manufacturer’s directions

•apply scalp to the ends

•natural bristle brush

~ remove oil and dirt

Color-Enhancing Shampoos

•surfactant base with basic color pigments

•Similar to temporary color rinses

•attracted to porous hair

•slight color change

•removed with plain

shampooing

Beautystore.com

Shampoos for Hairpieces and Wigs

•prepared wig-cleaning solutions are available

Add to the side bar:

Liquid dry shampoos were used on hairpieces and wigs in the 1970’s. It is like a dry cleaning chemical

cdn-www.expertvillage.com/showImage.aspx?site...

Shampooing Clients With Special Needs

•disabilities or wheelchair

~ will tell you how they prefer to be shampooed

Options:

~ facing the shampoo bowl

~ bending forward

~ towel to protect their face

•some will arrive freshly shampooed

•others need a dry shampoo

•always ask about their preferences

•make their comfort and safety a priority

Understanding Conditioners

•deposit protein or moisturizers

•Restore hair’s strength

•give body

•protect against possible breakage

•temporary remedy or cosmetic fix

•Can only repair hair to a certain extent

Pauljulian.co.uk

•restores luster

•shine

•manageability

•strength

•grows long enough to be cut off

Matrixhaircare.co.u

Hair-style-secrets-revealed.com

Conditioners

~ reconstructor’s

~ hair masks

1. Rinse-out

*Finishing rinses or

cream rinses

~ rinsed out after worked through

~ detangling

Hairproducts.com

Aurel.com

davidanthonyhairstudio.com

2. Treatment or repair

~ deep penetrating conditioners

~15-30 minutes

~ restores protein and moisture

*requires longer processing time

~ under a heated dryer for

deeper penetration

Pobox.ph

3. Leave-in

~ applied, not rinsed out

Conditioners contain silicone along with:

~ humectants

~ absorb moisture

~ promote the retention of moisture

Mysimon.com

Silicone

~ reflects light

~ hair appears shiny

•Other ingredients

~ reduce frizz

~ bulk up the hair

Davidanthonyhairstudio.com

Proteins

~ penetrate the cortex

~reinforce the hair shaft

***can buildup

***heavy and oily

***shampoo unnecessarily

***strips the hair protective oils

***creating a vicious cycle

so…

Senseof beauty.net

Sallybeauty.com

***use a gentle shampoo

***little conditioner

*** pass on to client’s

Healthy cuticle:

~ lies down smoothly

~ reflects light

~ shiny

•Conditioners, detanglers, cream rinses

• smooth the cuticle

~ coat the hair shaft

to achieve healthier looking hair

•The cortex

~ 90 % of the hair strand

~ penetrated with protein conditioners

*reinforce the hair shaft from within

~ TEMPORARILY reconstruct the hair

NOT IN TEXTBOOK: FYI

Instant Conditioners

•remain 1-5 minutes

•left in (“leave-in”)

•improve dry, brittle hair

•pH of 3.5-6.0

•restores the pH

~ alkaline chemical treatment

Add to the side bar in very small lettering: **more to add on next two slides

•Cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol are

common ingredients in instant

conditioners, work as pearlizing

agents with a glossy finishThis conditioner has both ingredients listed

within the first 8 ingredients naturallycurly.com

Add to side bar:•Lanolin derivatives are often included

in conditioner formulas for fine

hair because of their light

molecular weight

•Add:

•The size of the molecules, the distribution

of molecular weights, how much salt

the product contains, and how the

protein is hydrolized, all determine a

products effectiveness on the hair

Other Conditioning Agents

*Spray-on thermal protectors

~ applied to hair prior to any thermal (heat) service

*Scalp conditioners

~ cream base

~ soften and improve the

health of the scalp

www.beautybay.com/assets/uploaded/fck/Image/l...

shop.harveynichols.com/.../xlarge/282095_1.jpg

*Medicated Scalp Lotions

~ promotes healing

Add: control dandruff

*Scalp Astringent Lotions

~ remove oil accumulation

~ after scalp treatment

~ before styling

www.atmedica.com.sg/images/product_04.jpg

www.strawberrynet.com/.../03335776701.jpg

Add to the side bar:

•Acid-balanced rinses prevent the fading of haircolor

•Color rinses add temporary color to the hair

www.wwbeautystore.com/shopping/color-perm/rou...

Not in Textbook: FYI

Moisturizers (side bar notes later in P.P.)

•heavier and creamier need for test

•15-30 minutes

•more penetrating

•longer staying power

•Quaternary ammonium compounds are included to attach to hair fibers

•provide longer-lasting protection

Not in Textbook:FYI Protein Conditioners

Concentrated protein conditioners (brown liquid)

• increase hair diameter need for test

• adding body

• improve the tensile strength (stretching ability)

• temporarily closes split ends

• passes through the cuticle

• penetrates the cortex

•replaces keratin

•improves appearance

•equalizes porosity

•increases elasticity

•not given immediately following a chemical treatment

~ may alter the desirable rearrangement of protein bonds formed by perms,

relaxers or haircolor

Deep Conditioning Treatments

~ hair masks

~ conditioning packs

•concentrated protein

~ heavy cream base moisturizer

•equal degree of moisturizing

and protein

www.girlznight.co.uk/.../matrix/mtt18_b.jpg

Side bar notes:

Moisturizers- heavier, creamier formulation-longer processing time.

Concentrated protein-recognized by brown liquid appearance.

Masks/packs-are chemical mixtures of concentrated protein in the heavy cream base of a moisturizer.

Draping

•Client draping is important

•Contributes to the clients safety and comfort

•Wet clothing/haircolor or perm solution on clothing…completely avoidable with a professional draping

Two types of draping:

1.Shampoo draping or wet draping

2.Chemical draping

Wet draping-hair styling or haircutting services

Textbook: one towel under cape/one towel over cape. Remove after shampoo and replace with a sanex strip.

Mrs. Mandato’s way: plastic piece on clothing-towel-cape

Chemical draping-haircolor/ lightening, permanent wave and chemical relaxer services.

Textbook: towel under cape/one towel over cape,leave on for chemical service.

Mrs. Mandato’s way: plastic piece-towel-cape Drape for chemical service prior to applying

chemicals.

•FMD-is a shampoo required before a chemical product

•If shampoo is required…shampoo gently

•Before chemical service is to begin-redrape for a chemical service.

Three-Part Procedure

Keeps track of what you are doing:

1.pre-service

2.Actual service

3.Post-service

Part one: Pre-service procedure

•Organized step-by-step plan•Cleaning and disinfecting tools, implements, and materials

•Setting up your station

•Meeting, greeting, and escorting your client

Part two: Service procedure

•Organized step-by-step plan for the actual service

Part three:

•Organized step-by-step plan for caring for your client after the procedure

•Scheduling

•Payment process•Prepare for next client

Mrs. Mandato:The rest of the slides are Not in Textbook- Important

With each massage movement

~ place the hands under the hair

~ use length of the fingers

~ balls of the fingertips

~ cushions of the palms

~ stimulate the

muscles, nerves,

and blood vessels of

the scalp area

www.glenaffric.info/images/jpeg/shona_5.jpg

Shampoo Procedures

Good posture

~ protect against muscle aches

~ back strain

~ discomfort

~ fatigue

~ other physical problems that can result from performing shampoos

Flickr.com

Agendamag.com

Zero-flex.com

Correct posture

~ maintain an attractive image

~ always keep your shoulders back

~ avoid slumping over the client

~ hold abdomen in

Free-standing shampoo bowls

~ allow for healthier body alignment

~ help reduce strain on the back and shoulders

Voip-forum.tmcnet.com

Shampooing Chemically Treated Hair

•drier and more fragile

•use a mild shampoo

•tends to tangle

•use wide-toothed comb

~ gently remove tangles

~ beginning at the nape

~ work your way up

•use a conditioner if necessary

•relaxed or straightened hair needs moisturizing before drying