1
CAGLIARI UNOFFICIAL — GUIDE — San Benedetto Market San Benedetto is the largest civic market in Europe. Here operate more than 200 merchants: from gastronomy to fresh fish, from organic produce to leather products, to butchers and wine vendors. In this veritable explosion of flavours, sounds and smells, one can't help but try some Sardinian pecorino (sheep's cheese), along with in season fruit at zero km (peaches from San Sperate, Burcei cherries and Arborea strawberries). One cannot leave without having abandoned oneself to the extravagance of the ground floor, the realm of freshly-caught fish. Among the voices hurling phrases in the Campidanese dialect, the market will leave you with an authentic and unforgettable experience, making you feel like a local. MUST SEE 4 7 PLACES TO SEE AND EXPERIENCE, ACCORDING TO US Poetto The city's beach, stretching along 8 km with as many bus stops, now replacing the old tram stops. For younger beach- goers we suggest the strip starting from the fifth stop and ending at the remains of the old Marine Hospital. Summer evenings along this same stretch you'll find a number of kiosks where you can have a drink, listen to live music, play billiards and, why not, take a dip in the moonlight. Even during off-season we highly recommend you do as the locals do by stopping for lunch at one of the many bars along the beach; an experience that'll allow you to fully appreciate all the enchantment the Poetto desert has to offer. 1 Calamosca A small, suggestive and silent cove with crystalline waters, sheltered from the Mistral wind. This oasis of tranquillity can be reached in just a few minutes from the historical centre, both on foot and by bike. Besides a relaxing day at the sea, Calamo- sca also offers its homonymous tower overlooking the beach, and a spectacular excursion up to the Sella del Diavolo (Devil's Saddle). The path starts in front of Hotel Calamosca, and offers you a breathtaking view of the Gulf of Angels. At sunset, after a swim and an excursion, we highly recommend sticking around for an aperitif with a view of the sea at any one of the bars in the area. 2 Molentargius From the Su Siccu touristic port in viale Colombo, a bike path will lead you to the beach in 15 minutes, without running the risk of encountering motor-vehicles. Besides the convenience, this path is striking for the beauty of the landscape in which it is immersed, otherwise known as the Molentargius Salina. Evenings it mirrors the sunset. It is also home to a healthy community of magnificent flamingos who, together with the sun’s reflection upon the salt-infused water, will make your ride a unique experience. Ideal spot for photography lovers. 3 5 6 Botanic Garden An unexpected discovery for those venturing into the Stampace quarter, the Botanic Gardens is situated between Tigellio Villa and the Amphitheatre in the Palabanda valley, the cradle of the ancient Roman city. It is one of the most loved spaces, albeit one of the least explored by locals. Home to over 2000 vegetation varieties, it waits like a secret garden, an urban jungle of colours, scents and sounds that whisper the most profound stories of the city and its inhabitants. Evoking the arcane ties between man and nature, it provides a scientific and didactic insight into the world of plants, while leaving space for reflection and other romantic meanderings. A must see for those in search of magical realms. City Parks Monte Urpinu (via Vidal) is the most central. Walking to the very top you’ll find the ‘belvedere’ in Viale Europa where you can enjoy its unique 360° panorama. Two other beautiful parks are Monte Claro and San Michele. The lawns of the former (via Cadello and Liguria) often host international music events. The latter (via Giovanni Cinquini) is laid out upon multi-level lawns, dominated by the spectacular castle of the same name. The Parco della Musica, next to the Opera House, is an urban park with an avant-garde design. Its open spaces, among bridges, streams, sound fountains and light installations, host various cultural and artistic events. Flea Markets Flea Markets are a classic institution for any respectable city. The most famous in town is the Viale Trento Market, open only on Sunday mornings (9am–1pm). The stroll among the stands starts from the end of Corso Vittorio Emanuele, just past the Teatro Massimo, and ends at viale Trieste. Here you'll find just about everything, from vintage jackets to old ornaments, from analog cameras to watches. Bargains are assured for anyone with a curious eye and a willingness to rummage. On the same morning, we also recommend that you visit the Via Po second-hand market, which can be reached within 10 mins on foot or 5 by bike/bus from Viale Trento. If you’re looking for antiques, the Piazza del Carmine Sunday Market (9am – 5pm) is the place for you. VIA PUNICI VIA IS MAGLIAS VIA PUNICI VIA IS MAGLIAS TERRAPIENO EXMÀ CIMITERO MONUMENTALE BONARIA OSSIGENO SANTUARIO DI NOSTRA SIGNORA DI BONARIA VIALE TRIESTE VIA AZUNI C.SO V.EMANUELE VIA ANGIOY L.GO CARLO FELICE VIA ROMA VIALE LA PLAIA VIA SASSARI VIA MALTA VIA LA MARMORA VIA DEI GENOVESI VIA STRETTA VIALE REGINA MARGHERITA VIA ALGHERO VIA ORLANDO MONTE URPINU STAGNO DI MOLENTARGIUS GIARDINI PUBBLICI VIA SAN LUCIFERO VIA LOGUDORO VIA NUORO VIA DELEDDA VIA SIDNEY SONNINO VIA IGLESIAS VIA GARIBALDI VIA E. D’ARBOREA VIA SULIS VIA MILANO VIALE EUROPA VIALE EUROPA VIA ANTONIO SCANO VIA MESSINA VIALE ARMANDO DIAZ VIALE ARMANDO DIAZ VIALE ARMANDO DIAZ VIALE CIMITERO VIA SAN DOMENICO VIA TEMPIO VIA SAN GIACOMO VIALE SAN VINCENZO VIA OSPEDALE VIA MAMELI VIA MAMELI VIA TRENTO VIA TRENTO VIA GORIZIA VIA BATTISTI VIA POLA VIA MAMELI VIA CAPRERA VIA S.CROCE VIA DANTE ALIGHIERI VIA DANTE ALIGHIERI VIA SAN BENEDETTO VIA DEI GIUDICATI VIA MARCHE VIA GIARDINI VIA LIGURIA VIA IS MIRRIONIS VIALE XX SETTEMBRE VIA RAVENNA VIA MILANO VIA SAN GIOVANNI VIA SAN GIOVANNI VIA SAN SATURNINO VIALE REGINA ELENA VIA MANNO VIALE REGINA ELENA PIAZZA SAVOIA VIA ROMA VIA BARCELLONA VIA SARDEGNA PIAZZA MATTEOTTI ARST BUS STATION VIA SASSARI VIA CRISPI P.ZA DEL CARMINE VIALE TRIESTE VIA NAZARIO SAURO MEM ORTO BOTANICO MERCATO VIALE TRENTO VIA V.VENETO VIA SANT’IGNAZIO VIA SANT’IGNAZIO ANFITEATRO ROMANO UNIVERSITÀ VIALE MERELLO VIA DON BOSCO VIALE MERELLO VIA TIGELLIO VILLA DI TIGELLIO VIA PALABANDA C.SO V.EMANUELE VIA ANFITEATRO VIA GIUSSANI VIALE BUONCAMMINO VIALE BUONCAMMINO P.TA CRISTINA VIALE R.ELENA VIALE SAN VINCENZO VIA FIUME VIA G.PORCELL VIA DEL FOSSARIO VIA C.D’APPELLO VIA CAMMINO NUOVO GHETTO DEGLI EBREI VIA UNIVERSITÀ VIA SANTA MARGHERITA VIA SANT’EFISIO VIA SANTA RESTITUTA BASTIONE S.REMY VIALE LANUSEI VIALE BONARIA VIALE BONARIA VIA BOTTEGO VIALE COLOMBO PORTO TURISTICO DI SU SICCU FIERA VIA MESSINA VIA DELLA PINETA VIA DELLA PINETA ASSE MEDIANO VIALE POETTO VIA CUGIA VIA CARBONI BOI VIA AMAT PIAZZA REPUBBLICA PIAZZA YENNE CASTELLO VILLANOVA STAMPACE MARINA EXMÀ VIA DANTE ALIGHIERI PIAZZA SAN BENEDETTO PIAZZA GALILEI VIA PAOLI VIA FARINA PIAZZA GARIBALDI VIA CARDUCCI VIA MANZONI VIA TIZIANO VIA COCCO ORTU MERCATO DI SAN BENEDETTO VIA SANT’ALENIXEDDA VIA BACCAREDDA TEATRO LIRICO PARCO DELLA MUSICA PZA GIOVANNI XXIII VIA CIUSA VIA LA VEGA VIA BASILICATA VIA TOSCANA VIA TRENTINO UNIVERSITÀ CUS MONTE CLARO VIA VIDAL VIA PESSINA VIA PORTOSCALAS VIA BAYLLE VIA NAPOLI 1 3 5 4 6 6 6 21 22 16 27 12 9 10 11 2 14 18 19 24 25 4 5 6 31 7 2 3 1 50 45 13 23 15 17 46 47 48 H E L 6 5 4 49 8 26 32 3 11 28 A G M B C D 30 I 34 42 40 38 41 33 52 43 44 35 35 37 36 20 39 51 MOUTH-WATERING DELIGHTS 9 LILLICCU 10 STELLA DI MONTECRISTO 11 SAPORI DI SARDEGNA 13 IL FANTASMA 2 12 CORSO DODICI 14 NANSEN 15 CUCINA.EAT 16 LA TERRA DI MEZZO 17 ZUPPOSOFIA 18 GINTILLA 19 POLPA BURGER 20 RETROBURGER 21 OLD SQUARE 22 TANDOORI 23 WAZOBIA 24 CHEZ VICTOR 25 AL ANDALUS BREAKFAST & APERITIF 1 CAFÈ BARCELLONA 2 CAFFÈ DECANDIA 3 CAFFÈ DEGLI SPIRITI 5 CAFFÈ DELLE ARTI 4 COCCODI 6 NEVERFULL 7 BABEUF 8 FLORIO MUSIC & DRINKS 26 LA PAILLOTTE 27 COVO ART CAFÈ 28 VINVOGLIO 31 BABEL 30 MUZAK 32 BIRROTECA MERLO 29 OLD SQUARE BOOKS ALBUMS & MORE 33 LIBRERIA DI VIA SULIS 34 TIZIANO 35 MIELEAMARO 36 TUTTESTORIE 37 VERTIGO 38 ALTA FEDELTÀ 39 LORIGA 41 SUKKA 42 CAIDE 40 BLACK MARKET NOT ONLY SOUVENIRS 43 LOVE RETRÒ 44 FRODO & MARIBEL 45 MARTELLO 46 COIRAMI 48 BOTTEGA DELLE MERAVIGLIE 47 TRAMARE 52 DONNE CONCEPT STORE 49 NEW YORK 50 BERTOLA 51 WIPEOUT CONTEMPORARY CAGLIARI A SPAZIO INVISIBILE B GALLERIA CAPITOL C TEMPORARY STORING E SOUTH PHOTO D S’UMBRA G LABORATORIO 1984 H STUDIO U.F.O. I STUDIO UMIDO L TRIGU F ACCASARTI M STUDIO LIXI #lowereastmirrionis Villanova (Biddanoa in Sardinian) is a “small town in the middle of the city”. After its renovation and pedestrianiza- tion, many new avant-garde enterprises have sprung up, reflecting current international trends in fashion, design and 'lifestyle'. However, the quarter still preserves its authentic identity. Must do: discover Via San Domenico’s multicultural and historical atmosphere. Enjoy the flowers along via Piccioni and meet the artisans of via San Giovanni. VILLANOVA Stampace (Stampaxi in Sardinian) is the oldest part of the city. Strolling along its narrow and sunless alleys, charac- terized by coloured buildings, and breathing in its unique atmosphere, one feels removed from the modern city. This quarter is home of precious traditions, such as the Feast of Sant’Efisio and the Carnival. Must do: Sit down upon the staircase of Sant’Anna’s church. Explore amazing via Sant’Efisio and take a picture from the “secret” stairs of via Santa Restituta. STAMPACE One of the most suggestive quarters of the city. Close to its charming little historical fishing village, there’s the Lazzaretto, an ancient sick-house for lepers, reinvented as a multi-functional exhibition space, a gravitational point for Cagliari's cultural life. Must do: See the great murals by Crisa, Ciredz and EricaIlCane in via Schiavazzi. Visit the Sunday Market and the central square of the old fishing village. Have a break on the Lazzaretto’s stunning terrace. SANT’ELIA Castello (Castéddu ‘e susu in Sardinian) is inhabited by a home-grown stock, with many students and artists. Within its walls, narrow streets wind their way through ancient buildings, charming in their decadence. On summer evenings its Bastions’ terraces become the centre of the city's nightlife. Must do: explore via Lamarmora and visit its several artists’ ateliers. Stroll beautiful via Stretta and San Giuseppe. Experience every street to find out their secret ruins and murals. CASTELLO Multiethnic neighbourhood par excellence, Marina is Cagliari's symbol of integration. Every weekend swarms of youths flood its main streets to spend entire evenings in its many bars. For its mix of ethnicities, scents and flavours, Marina evokes the atmosphere of a bona fide metropolis. Must do: have a beer in Piazza Santo Sepolcro. Try at least one of its several traditional restaurants. Eat an ice-cream in the sun, while sitting upon the staircase of via Sardegna. MARINA 7 7 W SA SCAFA W U C 11 MONSERRATO SELARGIUS QUARTUCCIU QUARTU S.ELENA #cagliariunofficialguide Cagliari Unofficial Guide @UnofficialCA [email protected] 8 MEDIA PARTNER DELIVERED BY CAGLIARI UNOFFICIAL GUIDE Unofficial is a guide that turns you on to unusual places and itineraries, not mentioned in standard guides. Written by local authors, it is aimed at young and curious travellers, and offers them original tips to know the city deeply, and to experience it in the most authentic way. Unofficial seeks to facilitate the interaction between visitors and locals. The non-profit promoters of the project believe that the presence of outgoing young travellers, leading to personal exchanges, represents an indispensable resource for the social, cultural and economic development of the region. Don’t throw this guide away. Bring it back to your city or leave it in a public space so that someone else can make use of it. TEAM Enrico Lixia ~ Editor Simone Deiana ~ Art Director Luca Licciardi ~ Graphic Designer Daniele Zedda ~ Social Media Manager AUTHORS Francesco Accardo ~ Marco Barrella ~ Alessandro Congiu ~ Giacomo Garau ~ Enrico Lixia ~ Marco Orrù ~ Marco Peri ~ Mattia Schirru ~ Celestino Tabasso ~ Daniele Zedda ENGLISH TRANSLATION Mark A. Grace ILLUSTRATIONS Carol Rollo CAGLIARIUNOFFICIAL.COM #cagliariunofficialguide Cagliari Unofficial Guide @UnofficialCA [email protected] PIAZZA SAN SEPOLCRO CALA FIGHERA

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CAGLIARIUNOFFICIAL

— GUIDE —

San Benedetto Market

San Benedetto is the largest civic market in Europe. Here operate more than 200 merchants: from gastronomy to fresh fish, from organic produce to leather products, to butchers and wine vendors. In this veritable explosion of flavours, sounds and smells, one can't help but try some Sardinian pecorino (sheep's cheese), along with in season fruit at zero km (peaches from San Sperate, Burcei cherries and Arborea strawberries). One cannot leave without having abandoned oneself to the extravagance of the ground floor, the realm of freshly-caught fish. Among the voices hurling phrases in the Campidanese dialect, the market will leave you with an authentic and unforgettable experience, making you feel like a local.

MUST SEE4

7

PLACES TO SEE AND EXPERIENCE, ACCORDING TO US

Poetto The city's beach, stretching along 8 km with as many bus stops, now replacing the old tram stops. For younger beach-goers we suggest the strip starting from the fifth stop and ending at the remains of the old Marine Hospital. Summer evenings along this same stretch you'll find a number of kiosks where you can have a drink, listen to live music, play billiards and, why not, take a dip in the moonlight. Even during off-season we highly recommend you do as the locals do by stopping for lunch at one of the many bars along the beach; an experience that'll allow you to fully appreciate all the enchantment the Poetto desert has to offer.

1 CalamoscaA small, suggestive and silent cove with crystalline waters, sheltered from the Mistral wind. This oasis of tranquillity can be reached in just a few minutes from the historical centre, both on foot and by bike. Besides a relaxing day at the sea, Calamo-sca also offers its homonymous tower overlooking the beach, and a spectacular excursion up to the Sella del Diavolo (Devil's Saddle). The path starts in front of Hotel Calamosca, and offers you a breathtaking view of the Gulf of Angels. At sunset, after a swim and an excursion, we highly recommend sticking around for an aperitif with a view of the sea at any one of the bars in the area.

2 MolentargiusFrom the Su Siccu touristic port in viale Colombo, a bike path will lead you to the beach in 15 minutes, without running the risk of encountering motor-vehicles. Besides the convenience, this path is striking for the beauty of the landscape in which it is immersed, otherwise known as the Molentargius Salina. Evenings it mirrors the sunset. It is also home to a healthy community of magnificent flamingos who, together with the sun’s reflection upon the salt-infused water, will make your ride a unique experience. Ideal spot for photography lovers.

3

5 6 Botanic GardenAn unexpected discovery for those venturing into the Stampace quarter, the Botanic Gardens is situated between Tigellio Villa and the Amphitheatre in the Palabanda valley, the cradle of the ancient Roman city. It is one of the most loved spaces, albeit one of the least explored by locals. Home to over 2000 vegetation varieties, it waits like a secret garden, an urban jungle of colours, scents and sounds that whisper the most profound stories of the city and its inhabitants. Evoking the arcane ties between man and nature, it provides a scientific and didactic insight into the world of plants, while leaving space for reflection and other romantic meanderings. A must see for those in search of magical realms.

City ParksMonte Urpinu (via Vidal) is the most central. Walking to the very top you’ll find the ‘belvedere’ in Viale Europa where you can enjoy its unique 360° panorama. Two other beautiful parks are Monte Claro and San Michele. The lawns of the former (via Cadello and Liguria) often host international music events. The latter (via Giovanni Cinquini) is laid out upon multi-level lawns, dominated by the spectacular castle of the same name. The Parco della Musica, next to the Opera House, is an urban park with an avant-garde design. Its open spaces, among bridges, streams, sound fountains and light installations, host various cultural and artistic events.

Flea Markets

Flea Markets are a classic institution for any respectable city. The most famous in town is the Viale Trento Market, open only on Sunday mornings (9am–1pm). The stroll among the stands starts from the end of Corso Vittorio Emanuele, just past the Teatro Massimo, and ends at viale Trieste. Here you'll find just about everything, from vintage jackets to old ornaments, from analog cameras to watches.

Bargains are assured for anyone with a curious eye and a willingness to rummage. On the same morning, we also recommend that you visit the Via Po second-hand market, which can be reached within 10 mins on foot or 5 by bike/bus from Viale Trento. If you’re looking for antiques, the Piazza del Carmine Sunday Market (9am – 5pm) is the place for you.

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MOUTH-WATERING DELIGHTS

9 LILLICCU10 STELLA DI MONTECRISTO11 SAPORI DI SARDEGNA

13 IL FANTASMA 212 CORSO DODICI

14 NANSEN15 CUCINA.EAT16 LA TERRA DI MEZZO17 ZUPPOSOFIA

18 GINTILLA19 POLPA BURGER20 RETROBURGER21 OLD SQUARE22 TANDOORI23 WAZOBIA24 CHEZ VICTOR25 AL ANDALUS

BREAKFAST & APERITIF1 CAFÈ BARCELLONA2 CAFFÈ DECANDIA3 CAFFÈ DEGLI SPIRITI

5 CAFFÈ DELLE ARTI

4 COCCODI

6 NEVERFULL7 BABEUF8 FLORIO

MUSIC & DRINKS

26 LA PAILLOTTE27 COVO ART CAFÈ28 VINVOGLIO

31 BABEL30 MUZAK

32 BIRROTECA MERLO29 OLD SQUARE

BOOKS ALBUMS & MORE

33 LIBRERIA DI VIA SULIS34 TIZIANO35 MIELEAMARO36 TUTTESTORIE37 VERTIGO

38 ALTA FEDELTÀ39 LORIGA

41 SUKKA42 CAIDE

40 BLACK MARKET

NOT ONLY SOUVENIRS

43 LOVE RETRÒ44 FRODO & MARIBEL45 MARTELLO46 COIRAMI

48 BOTTEGA DELLE MERAVIGLIE

47 TRAMARE 52 DONNE CONCEPT STORE

49 NEW YORK50 BERTOLA51 WIPEOUT

CONTEMPORARY CAGLIARI

A SPAZIO INVISIBILEB GALLERIA CAPITOLC TEMPORARY STORING

E SOUTH PHOTOD S’UMBRA

G LABORATORIO 1984H STUDIO U.F.O.I STUDIO UMIDOL TRIGU

F ACCASARTIM STUDIO LIXI

#lowereastmirrionis

Villanova (Biddanoa in Sardinian) is a “small town in the middle of the city”. After its renovation and pedestrianiza-tion, many new avant-garde enterprises have sprung up, reflecting current international trends in fashion, design and 'lifestyle'. However, the quarter still preserves its authentic identity. Must do: discover Via San Domenico’s multicultural and historical atmosphere. Enjoy the flowers along via Piccioni and meet the artisans of via San Giovanni.

VILLANOVA

Stampace (Stampaxi in Sardinian) is the oldest part of the city. Strolling along its narrow and sunless alleys, charac-terized by coloured buildings, and breathing in its unique atmosphere, one feels removed from the modern city. This quarter is home of precious traditions, such as the Feast of Sant’Efisio and the Carnival. Must do: Sit down upon the staircase of Sant’Anna’s church. Explore amazing via Sant’Efisio and take a picture from the “secret” stairs of via Santa Restituta.

STAMPACE

One of the most suggestive quarters of the city. Close to its charming little historical fishing village, there’s the Lazzaretto, an ancient sick-house for lepers, reinvented as a multi-functional exhibition space, a gravitational point for Cagliari's cultural life. Must do: See the great murals by Crisa, Ciredz and EricaIlCane in via Schiavazzi. Visit the Sunday Market and the central square of the old fishing village. Have a break on the Lazzaretto’s stunning terrace.

SANT’ELIA

Castello (Castéddu ‘e susu in Sardinian) is inhabited by a home-grown stock, with many students and artists. Within its walls, narrow streets wind their way through ancient buildings, charming in their decadence. On summer evenings its Bastions’ terraces become the centre of the city's nightlife. Must do: explore via Lamarmora and visit its several artists’ ateliers. Stroll beautiful via Stretta and San Giuseppe. Experience every street to find out their secret ruins and murals.

CASTELLO

Multiethnic neighbourhood par excellence, Marina is Cagliari's symbol of integration. Every weekend swarms of youths flood its main streets to spend entire evenings in its many bars. For its mix of ethnicities, scents and flavours, Marina evokes the atmosphere of a bona fide metropolis. Must do: have a beer in Piazza Santo Sepolcro. Try at least one of its several traditional restaurants. Eat an ice-cream in the sun, while sitting upon the staircase of via Sardegna.

MARINA

7

7

W SA SCAFA

W

U

C

11

MONSERRATO SELARGIUS QUARTUCCIU QUARTU S.ELENA

#cagliariunofficialguideCagliari Unofficial Guide

@UnofficialCA [email protected]

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CAGLIARI UNOFFICIAL GUIDEUnofficial is a guide that turns you on to unusual places and itineraries, not mentioned in standard guides. Written by local authors, it is aimed at young and curious travellers, and offers them original tips to know the city deeply, and to experience it in the most authentic way. Unofficial seeks to facilitate the interaction between visitors and locals. The non-profit promoters of the project believe that the presence of outgoing young travellers, leading to personal exchanges, represents an indispensable resource for the social, cultural and economic development of the region.

Don’t throw this guide away.Bring it back to your city or leave it in a public space so that someone else can make use of it.

TEAMEnrico Lixia ~ EditorSimone Deiana ~ Art DirectorLuca Licciardi ~ Graphic DesignerDaniele Zedda ~ Social Media Manager

AUTHORSFrancesco Accardo ~ Marco Barrella ~ Alessandro Congiu ~ Giacomo Garau ~ Enrico Lixia ~ Marco Orrù ~ Marco Peri ~ Mattia Schirru ~ Celestino Tabasso ~ Daniele Zedda

ENGLISH TRANSLATIONMark A. Grace

ILLUSTRATIONSCarol Rollo

CAGLIARIUNOFFICIAL.COM#cagliariunofficialguide Cagliari Unofficial Guide

@[email protected]

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