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Torres del Paine • Puerto Natales • Punta Arenas • Isla Navarino ACCOMMODATION RESTAURANTS GUIDES CULTURE MAPS TRAVEL ADVENTURE Volume 2 • Issue 4 • Jan 2007 • patagoniablacksheep.com cover image by Anthony Riggs © RECYCLE THIS PAPER - PASS IT ON! FREE Navarino Island boasts Lakutaia The Southernmost Luxury Lodge in the World Organizing Travels in Patagonia Black Sheep www.patagoniablacksheep.com Ahhhhhhh.... The Dientes.

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Page 1: Black Sheep Jan 07

Torres del Paine • Puerto Natales • Punta Arenas • Isla Navarino

ACCOMMODATION RESTAURANTS GUIDES CULTURE MAPS TRAVEL ADVENTURE

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RECYCLE THIS PAPER - PASS IT ON!

FREE

Navarino Island boasts Lakutaia The Southernmost Luxury Lodge in the World

Organizing Travels in Patagonia

Black Sheepwww.patagoniablacksheep.com

Ahhhhhhh.... The Dientes.

Page 2: Black Sheep Jan 07

2

www.patagoniablacksheep.com

Torres del Paine Bus Schedules

Natales - Torres del Paine Torres del Paine - NatalesAndescape Ph 412877

7.30 (Laguna Amarga) 15.00

(Pudeto) 14.00

(Administration) 13.45

Gomez Ph 415700

7.30 (Laguna Amarga) 15.00

(Pudeto) 13.45

(Administration) 13.00

JB Ph 412824

7.30 (Laguna Amarga) 15.00

(Pudeto) 14.00(Administration) 13.00

Puerto Natales - Punta Arenas Punta Arenas - Puerto NatalesBuses FernandezPh 411111E. Ramírez 399

7.15 9.0013.00 14.3017.00 18.30 20.00

Buses FernandezPh. 242313Arm. Sanhueza 745

8.00 9.0013.0014.3017.0018.3020.00

Bus PachecoPh 414513Baquedano 500

7.3010.0013.30 18.00

Bus PachecoPh. 242174Colón 900

8.3014.00 18.3019.30

Bus Sur Ph 411859Baquedano 668

7.00 15.00

Bus SurPh. 244464José Menéndez 552

15.00 19.00

Via Paine / Andescape - Eberhard 599 - Ph 412877Puerto Natales – Torres del Paine Torres del Paine – Puerto Natales

Trip 1 Trip 2 Trip 1 Trip 2

Puerto Natales 7.30 14.00 Administration 13.00 18.00

Laguna Amarga 9.45 16.30 Pudeto 13.45 19.00

Pudeto 10.45 17.30 Laguna Amarga 15.00 19.45

Administration 11.45 18.00 Puerto Natales 17.00 22.00

Gomez -Arturo Prat 234 - Ph 411971Puerto Natales – Torres del Paine Torres del Paine – Puerto Natales

Puerto Natales 7.30 14.00 Administration 13.00 18.15

Laguna Amarga 9.45 16.30 Pudeto 13.45 19.00

Pudeto 10.45 17.30 Laguna Amarga 15.00 19.45

Administration 11.45 18.00 Puerto Natales 17.00 22.00

Buses JB - Arturo Prat 258 - Ph 410242Puerto Natales – Torres del Paine Torres del Paine – Puerto Natales

Puerto Natales 7.30 10.30 14.00 Administration 13.00 18.30

Laguna Amarga 9.45 12.30 16.30 Pudeto 13.30 19.00

Pudeto 10.45 17.30 Laguna Amarga 14.30 17.30 20.00

Administration 11.45 18.00 Puerto Natales 17.00 19.30 22.00

Approximate travel times from Puerto Natales (allow for border crossings and tour connections within park)El Calafate 5 hrs TDP L. Amarga 2 hrs 30Punta Arenas 3 hrs TDP Pudeto 3 hrs 15Ushuaia 15 hrs TDP Admin 3 hrs 45

Remember: Hostería Las Torres operates a transfer that connects to all the buses that arrive at and leave from Laguna Amarga (cost is $2 USD).

Andescape - Dickson, Lago Grey [email protected] +56-61 412592

Breakfast Lunch Dinner Full board

Fantastico Sur - Las Torres, Chileno, Los Cuernos [email protected] +56-61 360360

Breakfast Lunch Dinner Full board

Vertice - Paine Grande Mountain Lodge [email protected] +56-61 412742

Breakfast Lunch Dinner Full board

Torres del Paine Refugio Information These prices are reflected in US dollars. Paying in Chilean pesos adds tax.

$8.50$13.50$15.00$59.00

$8.00$12.00$14.00$63.00

$9.00$12.00$15.00$63.00

Dorm bedCampingSleepingbag2 person TentMattress

25.007.007.50

13.0005.50

33.007.007.00

11.0003.50

35.007.004.00

14.003.00

Dorm bedCampingSleepingbag2 person TentMattress

Dorm bedCampingSleepingbag2 person TentMattress

One way ticket $11.000 per person (one backpack is allowed)Round trip ticket $17.000 per person

No trips on 1/01/2007Los arrieros 1517. Puerto Natales. Phone 61-411380. Mail: [email protected]

CATAMARAN HIELOS PATAGONICOS

November 1 to March 15, 2007 09:30am 10:30pm 12:00pm 12:30pm 18:00pm 18:30pmMarch 16 to 31, 2006 12:00pm 12:30pm 18:00pm 18:30pm April 2007 12:00pm 12:30pm

TEMPORADA 2006-2007- Regular Schedule

A comfortable & secure voyage across Lake Pehoe...

Pudeto Pehoe

Torres del Paine

The Black Sheep is an independently and locally owned paper, inspired by life in Puerto

Natales, Chile. A warm, woolly thanks goes out to all black sheep who helped make this paper possible. The

opinions within the Black Sheep, written or implied, are not necessarily those of some of the advertisers. But we

do it for the fans, not the critics.

www.patagoniablacksheep.com

Published by Southern Cross Ltda.The Black Sheep

Organizing Chilean Patagonia Patagonia, Chile

ph +56•61•415749

Production Editor • Design: Rustyn Mesdag

Business Director • Advertising Manager: Pilar IrribarraContributers:

Diego Araya, Sebastian Borgwardt, Isabel Chamorro, Marjan Alkema,

Carolyn PhillipsConsultant:

bill penhollow

Page 3: Black Sheep Jan 07

January 2007

Puerto Natales / Torres del Paine Questions & AnswersWhat’s the weather going to be like for the next few days? That’s the forbidden question. But we put But we put this one in just for fun! .... No, really, what’s the weather going to be like? I need to know what to pack! Plan for everything, but mostly cold. The weather changes constantly.

How far is it to the park from here? From Natales, by bus, it takes about 2 - 2.5 hrs.What time do the buses leave in the morning? Most of the buses pick-up between 7 - 8am. There is also a 2pm bus.What’s up with all the dogs? Half of them are street dogs, half of them are owned but run free anyway. Together they make more street dogs. It’s a circle of life thing...

Can the buses to the park pick me up from my hostel? Some do, it depends if your hostel is friendly with the bus company.How can I book a refugio? In town, go to Pathgone or Comapa. How much does camping cost in the park? Camping costs 3,500 pesos per person, not per tent, at the privately run sites. The CONAF sites are free.So, I pay an entrance fee AND pay to camp? Yep, and don’t forget your bus ticket, mini shuttle or catamaran, as well - all in Pesos only. Which campsites are free? Los Guardas, Italiano, Británico, Japones, Camp Las Torres, Paso, Pingo and Las Carretas.

At what time do the stores open in the morning? Don’t count on the stores being open before 9:30am.What about midday? Between 12 and 3 everything is pretty locked down, exept for the supermarkets.Where can I buy camping food in town? There are three bigger supermarkets in town, the Magno located 1 block south from the Santiago Santander bank. The Don Bosco and Super Mix are both on the main streets of Baquedano and Bulnes.How do I contact the park’s Search and Rescue if something happens? There is no official Search and Rescue in the park, but any of the CONAF Ranger stations will help you.What are the winters like around here? Calm, blue, clear, freezing and beautiful. How cold does it get in the park at night? In summer, not freezing, but it can still get close sometimes.Can I rent a tent, sleeping bag and mattress at the refugios?Yes, but you can’t take them with you as you trek. Is there a bus that goes to Calafate directly from Torres del Paine?Yes, it picks up at 5pm at Laguna Amarga. Call Calafate Travel for that transfer. It costs 20.000 from the park and from Pto. Natales it costs 10.000.How much does the catamaran to Pehoe cost in the park? The Catamaran costs 11.000 pesos per person, one way, 17.000 round trip.Is there food sold in the park?

You can buy hot meals in the refugios. As far as buying camp food, you can find some staples at refugios.Can I cook in the refugios? In the nicer, bigger refugios you can usually find a gas stove to use, but no real kitchen facilities.Why do all the girls here wear those uniform mini skirts to school in such a cold and windy place? Another big mystery, but we are pretty sure it was a man’s idea.How much do the taxis cost? From 6am to 1am it’s 800 pesos. From 1am to 6am it’s 1.000 pesos. (Within city limits).How long does the trekking season last? Roughly from October to April, but it’s growing more every year. The truth is that it’s beautiful here all the time, the park is great in winter.Are there backpackers here in the winter? Not many in June, July and August... yet.What time is sunrise and sunset? It changes, of course, but the map you receive when you enter the park has some of that info on the back. When do the bars start hopping? If you’re really going to go out, and do it up right, don’t worry about starting until midnight... and don’t plan on coming home until breakfast.What’s up with me not being able to flush my toilet paper down the toilet? Do I really have to throw it in the waste basket?!

It depends on where you are. Sometimes it’s fine to flush it, but if it says not to, DON’T!A bit gross and bizarre, I know, but the

pipes from yester-year just can’t handle it.If the weather is nice on the first day, should I go see the towers first?Any experienced climber, trekker or hiker will tell you to make a plan and stick to it, but as long as your logistics all work out there is nothing wrong in a little improv.Are the times on the trail maps accurate? The times are pretty good on the CONAF map, depending on your physical condition. Some of the books seem to be a bit off though.Is it worth renting a car to get around instead of using the buses?Depends on your budget and your destination. Public transportation is always a good ideas when possible, but there is a lot of Patagonia out there that has no public buses. To see those places, getting a few people to pitch in for a car can make for a unique experience.Do I get a map when I enter the park? Yes. You can buy a nicer wall map in town.Do I need sunscreen in the park? Absolutely! The hole in the ozone wobbles right over us this time of year. It can and will cause you problems after a multi day trek in the park. The UV rays come through the clouds too, so don’t go light on the sun protection.Where can I buy white gas? The pharmacies carry clean white gas. You can start finding them in some of the outdoor and building material stores too. What’s up with all the military guys walking around town? There is a military base located right outside of town.Why do I get given a piece of little receipt paper every time I buy something? It´s the law, no joke. Everyone takes it very seriously.Do I need to tie up my food in the park? Not really. But mice and/or a fox might get into your vestabule. It’s best to sleep with your food in the tent, with you.Can you drink the water in the park? You bet! Best water in the world. Just make sure it’s fresh run off, no lake water or anything down stream from a camp or refugio. Why do I seem to understand LESS Spanish in Chile than anywhere else? Chileans down here talk really fast and with a lot of slang.Why is there so much garbage on the beach? That is a very good question. Do I have to worry about making a reservation for the bus on my way back from TdP?No. There is almost always room, and they never leave anyone behind. They always work it out for you. ...and all the buses and all the boats meet up with each other perfectly, crazy I know.

A free information talk is given at Erratic Rock everyday at 10:30am & 3pm -about the Park, logistics, food prep, programs, clothing and any questions you might have...

Extras...

Arriving late? Equipment emergency? The gear shop, La Maddera at Bulnes 495, is open until 10pm and will except emergency phone calls at all hours if you have a real problem. 09-4184100 or 412591

Punta Arenas

Puerto Natales, Chile

Yungay

M. Bulnes

Eberhard

Bories

B. Philipi

O’Higgins

Miraflores

Ladrilleros

C. Pinto

A. Prat

B. Encalada

Baquedano

E. Ram

irez

Balm

aceda

Esmeralda

Chorrillos

B. A

rana

Magallanes

T. Rogers

Magallanes

P. Montt

Valdivia

B. Zam

ora

Galvarino

Milodon CaveCerro Castillo

Puerto PratPuerto Bories

Trekking DoroteaRio Turbio, Argentina

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Page 4: Black Sheep Jan 07

4Daily Rock Climbs in Torres del Paine

Puma ExploracionesTorres del PainePatagonia-ChileFono 360 360www.pumaexploraciones.com [email protected]

Daily DeparturesAM 9:00 to 13:00

PM 15:00 to 19:00

Looking for something extra while in Torres del Paine? A new company has begun daily outdoor rock climbing programs out of Hosteria las Torres. Puma Explorations is offering two de-parture times daily through April 2007. From beginner to advanced, these daily programs of-fer a great taste of rock climbing in Patagonia. The cost of these rock seminars cost 19.000clp ($38USD).Aside from being easily accessible from Hosteria & Refugio Torres, these programs are all inclusive; ropes, climbing shoes, helmets, saftey equipment and instruction from the expe-rienced and ultra friendly Puma crew.The founder of Puma Exploration is second generation Torres climber, Tomas Marusic L’huissier. Tomas grew up climbing with his father, Pepe (Jose Marusic Fernandez), a local legend in Torres del Paine. A day out with the Puma crew will open your eyes to the history of climbing in the region as well as getting you that much better prepared for your next rock adventure.

zThe “Sendero de Chile” is a huge project which aims to link Chilean people and fo-reigners with the natural, cultural, ethnic, and scenic variety of the country. By the year 2010 it will be the longest trail in the world, with an extension over 8.500 kilometers. This path will link the plateau and the most barren desert of the world; central valleys and its cities, parks, woods, lakes and volcanoes in southern Chile; austral glaciers and the vast expanse of the Patagonia pampas, and finally, the main island ecosystems, with paths in Isla de Pascua, in Ar-chipielago de Juan Fernández and Isla Grande de Chiloé.Currently, Sendero de Chile has 35 treks that form this amazing route with more than 1,200 kilometers along the country. Each journey is linked to unique geographical conditions, but specially linked to very particular and unique natural and tourist attractions. At the Magallanes region, 3 trails exists: “Isla Navarino in Cabo de Hornos”, “Reserva Nacio-nal de Magallanes” and “Ruta Patrimonial Mi-lodon” (a few kms from Puerto Natales).Ruta Patrimonial MilodónThis trail begins 20 kms to the north of the Mi-lodon cave, in the “Nuevo camino al Parque Nacional Torres Del Paine” or “Lago Porteño” road.

The trail is 60 cms wide and 42 kms in length. and begins at the foot of the Cerro Tenerife hill. It is an easy walk and while you are walking, you can enjoy the magnificent landscape of the the Paine Grande Massif and three nearby lakes: Porteño, Maravilla and Toro; besides it is also possible to see the Tyndall and Grey Glaciers and part of the Campo de Hielo Patagónico Sur. Finally, the journey ends at the Serrano river, next to the Torres del Paine National Park. Walking the whole path takes about 3 or 4 days, so you can camp at Rio Ventisquero, El Salto and Rio Serrano.The environmental characteristics in this path are a feature of the patagonia climate, with a wide variety of native vegetation like lengas, coigues, ñirres, maitenes, ciruelillos, and cala-fates. You can also see different kind of birds and other animals like condor, eagles, parrots, foxes, bobcats, etc.The trail “Ruta Patrimonial Milodón” is in an improvement phase at present so its infrastruc-ture is still basic. The trail is accessible from its starting point to the end in rio Serrano, from where you can visit the Torres del Paine Natio-nal Park or make a descent by zodiac through the Rio Serrano, visit Balmaceda and Serrano glacier and continue by boat to Puerto Natales.

The Longest Trek in the World

[email protected]

In the beginning there was ice.Departing from the

Glacier Grey Operations Hut in Torres del Paine

- Daily Ice Hikes- 1, 2 & 3 Day Seminars

- 9 Day Expedition Primers

PUNTA ARENASERRAZURIZ 891

FONO: 240214

PUERTO NATALESBARROS ARANA 299FONO: 41�622

Camping Equipment • Sport Fishing • Fly Fishing • Hunting Gear • Fleece Jackets • Parkas • Thermals • Tents • Sleeping Bags • Backpacks • Boots & Tennis shoes • Climbing Equipment • and more...

www.patagoniablacksheep.com

Art Gallery & Jewelry 56 61 411461

Eberhard 318 Puerto Natales

Phone +56 61 412239 Bulnes 299 Pto.Natales

HotelRestaurant

CafeteriaHand Crafts

MassageTravel Agency

&The best pisco sour in town!www.aquaterrapatagonia.com

Page 5: Black Sheep Jan 07

January 2007

Tell your friends......don’t tell the guidebooks.

51* 44’ 06.7s72* 30’ 17.8w

What & Where is Cabo Froward? The Strait of Magellan, the channel, scene of countless shipwrecks, the oldest cemetery in Patagonia, historical bays and we have never seen anyone else on the trail.

The bottom of Africa and the bottom of Australia are easy to find. They’re just spots on a map that you drive your car to, get out, take a photo next to the sign and drive off. Not the case for the bottom point of South America. This journey is only for those ready to get completely away from the masses and willing to put themselves in a place where the words ‘self reliance’ cannot be taken lightly. Be prepared for an agonizingly rough trail, relentless wind and two neck-high river crossings carrying your pack over your head. There is no going back, mi amigo.

The trek begins where the dirt road ends. Old deep forests of Nothofagus: huge coigues that seem never before seen or touched. The views are incredible, not only the Strait itself, but the mountains surrounding it. Mt. Sarmiento is impressive, reaching more than 7,000 feet after rising out of the sea. And then there is the Darwin Range, part of Alberto de Agostini National Park. There is also a good chance of being saturated at least once a day. The hike covers sand, rainforest and rock, plus two large river crossings and multiple small ones.

The trail is not always clearly marked. Finding a reliable map is next to impossible. Trails are only marked by the few that try their luck reaching the bottom of the continent. This is what will be a section of the Sendero de Chile project, which aims to create roads and paths and ferries that span the length of Chile,

eliminating the need to cross into Argentina. This project is expected to be completed

in 2010.

The final goal is to reach the crucifix that overlooks

the end of the American continent. The view from the lookout provides a true

sense of history. At that moment you realize where in the world you

are. This trek is not for everyone. There

is no help, or contact with the world for days

in any direction. The weather can be equally beautiful and

unforgiving. This completely self supported trip can be called nothing

less then extreme trekking. The trek is only really possible January

- March. Other times of the year you will possibly run into river problems. Deep winter makes for frozen conditions. This route boasts two large, cold, strip down and hold your pack over your head river crossings. If you have successfully trekked and camped the Torres del Paine ‘W’ circuit, then you might be ready for Cabo Froward. This trek is about the location itself, the bottom of the continent and the history. Very few trekkers have ever been to Cabo Froward.

erratic rock.comJoin the rucksack revolution.

reservations +�6-61 410���

Experience and good physical fitness is essential.

Must be able to carry full and loaded pack and walk on and in difficult terrain, including river

crossings of a minimum of 1.5 meters deep.

Optional zodiac return from tip or trek up Mt. Tarn is subject to additional fees.

Cabo departure dates 2007

Jan 7-12Jan 14-19Jan 21-26Jan 28-Feb 2Feb 4-9

Feb 11-16Feb 18-23Feb 25-Mar 2Mar 4-9Mar 11-16

Cabo Shoestring Trips 2007As a special New Years promotion, erratic rock® in Puerto Natales is posting special shoestring Cabo Froward programs for backpackers in Patagonia. For what they call ‘...a getting back to our roots program...”, these series of Cabo Froward trips will be open to the public at a surprising low back-packers price. Program director Bill Penhol-low: `We designed this series of Cabo trips for the backpackers who don’t normally use guides. Travelers that want to do something unique and who want to carry their own gear, who want to achieve the tip of the continent on their own, under their own power. The problem is they just need someone to show them the way....’. The program runs weekly during the months

of January, February and March and are 6 days in total. Program cost starts at 75.000clp for full groups. Trips include guide, food, one night in Punta Arenas and transportation. This is a self suf-ficient program and each team member must carry all personal gear and equipment. Cabo Froward programs leave every Sunday from Puerto Natales and return to Punta Arenas on Fridays.

The penguin connection.

Downtown Punta Arenaswww.aonikenk.com

Magallanes 619 Call 221982

Bories House in Patagonia but not

entirely of it. Go there to get away

without leaving it all behind.

* * * H o r s e R i d i n g Av a i l a b l e * * *

Reservations: (+56-61) 412221Puerto Bories 13b, Puerto Natales, Chile

www.borieshouse.com · [email protected] transfer service from Puerto Natales

Page 6: Black Sheep Jan 07

6

January 2007www.patagoniablacksheep.com

The Falkland Islands -by Miguel Barrientos

10% OFF

massage, mud therapy & more

Branch office

Albergue Torre Central

2006-07 Season

Phone / Fax 56•61•415285

Handmade ChocolateGourmet EspressoReal Hot Chocolate

Barros Arana 233, Puerto NatalesPatagonia, Chile

Mmmm...

Susan Steiger galvarino 345 pto.natales tel: 413829

Private & group yoga sessions daily

www.susalatino.com

A different destination...Looking for a new adventure? Bored with skyscrapers or traffic jams? Want to get in touch with nature? Here’s a holiday tip for you.Volunteer Point

The Falkland Islands, with a total land area of 4,700 square miles (12,173 sq km) and located 400 miles (640 kilometres) east of the South American mainland, is one of the fourteen UK Overseas Territories. It’s made up of two large islands (East Falkland and West Falkland) and several hundred smaller ones. According to the 2001 Census, The Islands have a population of 2,913, of whom 1,989 live in Stanley, the capital. Most of the rest of the population live on sheep farms. Falkland Islanders make up 45% of the total population, which also includes UK citizens, Chileans, Australians, New Zealanders and Russians, amongst others. The official language is English and the currency is the Falkland pound (1FKP=1GBP). The fisheries sector, having two types of squid (Illex argentinus and Loligo gahi) as its main products, is the main contributor to the Islands economy.

What to do.If you are looking for a wildlife experience, search no more. The Falklands have 17 different mammals, 5 species of penguins (including King and Macaroni penguins) and over 70 species of birds breed on the Islands. In the Falklands you will have the opportunity of enjoying these animals in their natural habitats, something so unique that it will almost make you feel like an intruder. Places like Volunteer Point to see King penguins, Sea Lion Islands for sea lions, elephant seals and penguins (The Falklands have the world’s largest populations of rockhopper and gentoo penguins), Bleaker Island for penguins and sea lions, and Saunders Islands for penguins and black-browed albatross (The Falklands have the world’s largest black-browed albatross population) are some of the main attractions. Other options are sea trout fishing. The best times are in September and October, and in March and April. Also, if golfing is your thing, there are a few golf courses on the Islands. Now, if you’re travelling to a Spanish speaking country after your visit to the Falklands, you can brush up on your knowledge of the language in Stanley. Shopping as in “shop till you drop” is not the reason why people come to the Islands. Obviously, you will always find something to

buy, including local woollen goods, leather items, paintings, stamps and a good variety of souvenirs. However, you will not find a branch of a worldwide known restaurant or shop. This is one of the features that makes the Falklands different. And just to give you a better idea, you will not find a supermarket open after 9:00 p.m., and you won’t be able to get cash with your credit card because there are no ATMs on the Islands. By the way, if you don’t have Falkland pounds on you, British pounds are equally accepted, and most shops will take US dollars, Euros and major credit cards as well.Now, although there are not many restaurants to go to, The Falklands offer you a good variety of dishes. Among the good local seafood, you can find mussels, oysters, snow crab, squid and Patagonian toothfish. Also lamb, beef and mutton dishes, plus local veggies and a good variety of international wines are an important part of the menu. And the best way to finish off the night is to visit one of the British style local pubs, which are mostly located around the town centre, or just £2 away in a taxi.

When to go.The best weather can usually be found between November and March. The average temperature of the warmest months is 9.3º (48.7ºF) and for the coldest month is 2º (35.6ºF). This year, in January, the highest was 21º (69.8ºF) and the lowest was 1º (33.8ºF), while in February the hightest was 20º (68ºF) and the lowest was 4º (39.2ºF).

Obviously, accommodation is more expensive during these months. Prices range from about £130 for a single room in a hotel to about £15 for a room in a B&B.

How to go.There is a LAN Chile flight that leaves every Saturday from Santiago, Chile, and stops over in Puerto Montt and Punta Arenas. Once a month, it also stops off at Rio Gallegos, in Argentina. If you are in the UK, you can catch a flight at RAF Brize Norton, which is located near Burford, Oxfordshire, England. Visitors from Britain, North America, Mercosur, Chile, and most Commonwealth and European Community countries do not need visas. Another important point is that all tourists are required to demonstrate on arrival that they have return tickets or secure accommodation and sufficient funds to cover their expenses during their intended stay. In case I’ve left something out, you can go to www.falklandislands.com, www.falklands.info or www.tourism.org.fk for more information.

Trail Tips...

Fuel Efficiency

While trying to pack light, taking your fuel into consideration helps. Bringing more fuel then you really need just means more weight to carry. On the other side of the coin, not enough fuel can cause problems. Here are a few ideas to make the most of your fuel.1. Don´t over boil your water, it can only get so hot. Leaving the water boiling after its first moment is a waste. Lighting the stove before you are ready to start a boil is also only heating the fresh air.2. Use a lid on your pot. It holds the heat in and allows for a faster boil.3, Use a wind screen. Wind will carry your heat from under your pot and redirect it from your food. Using a wind shield will aim the heat up and under your pot. If you don´t have a aluminum wind screen, rock from your campsite will also help protect your heat.-4. Many outdoor manufactures (such as MSR) now make heat exchangers that fit around your pot as an insulation. Between this and a wind screen, you can cook in almost any conditions.

torres del paine

Baquedano 622 Pto Natales, [email protected]

tested in patagonia

New clothing from the heart of Patagonia

+�6-61 614�10

TourisT CenTer PuerTo Del esTreCho

Travel info - Internet - Cafeteria - Hand-Crafts - Souvenirs - Phone Center - Travel Agency - Money Exchange - Rental Cars

& more...

Lib. Bernardo O’Higgins - Puerto Arturo Prat, Punta Arenas, Chile ph241022 [email protected]

Page 7: Black Sheep Jan 07

7

January 2007

The Black Sheep would like to thank all the local businesses that make being a traveller a little easier.

Sheep Shearing

Bulnes 299 Pto. Natalesph +56-61 412239

10% off anycafetería

EMPORIO de la PampaEberhard 226 -Puerto Natales, Patagonia, Chile

This coupon is redeemable for a 10% discount on a regional

cheese plate with the purchase of wine for two.

Eusebio Lillo 1417 ph 412052 Puerto Natales, Chile

Rustike

10% off any purchase

ÑANDÚHand Crafts

Eberhard 301 Puerto Natales, Chile ph. 414382 - 415660 Cerro Castillo ph. 691932 - 413063 ANEXO 122

5% off any cash purchase

10% OFF Glacier Grey Ice Hike

This coupon is redeemable for a 10% discount on Daily Ice Hikes on Glacier Grey. Valid for

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O’ Sole Mio Restaurant

Page 8: Black Sheep Jan 07

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www.patagoniablacksheep.com January 2007

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Located on the main Plaza - Pto. Natales, Chile

Speciality foods available - organics, wheat free, dairy free,homemade soups, cakes & desserts, selection of coffees & teas,

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24 hour reception, cable tv, multilingual, telephone

MATE is a yerba. It is made from the leaves and stalks of a shrub (Ilex paraguariensis). In Patagonia drinking mate is a ritual often involving a group of friends who have gathered to “matear” (drink and gossip). It is usually taken on an empty stomach in the morning or afternoon. Mate is said to be an appetite suppressant, an anti-oxidant and rich in vitamins C, B1, B2, potassium and magnesium. It is considered to be a healthier option than tea or coffee, but it is a stimulant and contains caffeine.

So if you are looking for something to aid digestion that won´t keep you awake all night why not try one of the té de hierbas (herbal teas) that are very popular with Chileans. Menta (mint) and manzanilla (camomile) will be familiar to many but there are various others. These hierbas are usually taken after meals and are caffeine free, but they are also recommended for a range of other ailments. Below is a list of some of their properties and some of the conditions they may help to alleviate.BOLDO – calming, headaches, gallstonesBAILAHUEN – aphrodisiac, cleanses the liverLLANTEN (plantain) – anti-inflammatory, coughs, stimulates the appetite MATÍCO – for after eating meatMENTA (mint) – nausea, wind, bad breath, coldsMANZANILLA (camomile) – calming, anti-inflammatory, high blood pressurePAICO – flatulence, diarrheaTILO – lowers cholesterol, fever, crampsCEDRÓN (Lemon verbena) – calming, insomnia, flatulence, cramps

These teabags can be found in many shops and supermarkets. There is one that is a mix of hierbas called “ocho hierbas” which is particularly recommended for after meals.

If you are interested in a more natural approach to treating ailments you should visit a Hierberia. There are several in Puerto Natales. Here you will find the above teas in leaf form, as well as many others offering a range of benefits. The leaves can be made into infusions and taken hot or cold. Even if your Spanish isn´t great you may be able to get an idea of their uses just from the amusing drawings on some of the packets. N:B: These infusions are much stronger than the teabags so if you are pregnant or suffer from any particular illness you should check before using.

Campamento Italiano got its name long ago from an Italian climbing expedition to climb the Cuernos. After being just a climbers campsite for years, from 1980 onwards Italiano is an official free Conaf campsite. In 2002 the first park rangers where stationed there, mostly to prevent tourists from starting forest fires. They were guarding the area, but without facilities, they lived in tents. In 2004 a house was built in Italiano, all materials arrived at the place carried by humans.

The number of people spending the night at Italiano has been growing ever since. In high season there are counted up to 150 tents a night at the campsite. Using this campsite is a great way to visit Valle Del Frances with less time constraints. Waking up in the morning in Italiano gives ample time to see the Valley and move on to your next camp before dark.

This valley got its name from a Frenchman that used to have cattle in the area. The animals were more in the area around Pehoe and Italiano and were never really found up in the valley. The valley was named after this Frenchman who’s name was Bader and the valley between Valle del Frances and Valle Ascencio still bares his name, Valle Bader.

Right now the only facilities in Italiano are restrooms. The campsite is situated in a Lenga tree forest that offers trekkers a lot of protection from wind & rain. Valle del Frances tends to attract bad weather. This together with the growing number of people staying there, a new project is planned for construction. This will feature a protected area for campers to cook and relax out of the weather. CONAF says that this project will be ready by next season.

The legend of CalafateIn the days when the Selknam lived in Tierra del Fuego and nobody else had taken over those territories, there were tribes separated from each other. Two of those tribes had always been in conflict because their chiefs had sworn to fight until death.

Calafate was one of the chief´s daughters. She was beautiful and spirited. She enjoyed life and lived far from hatred.

One day, when the sun was setting and it was time for love, she met a young, handsome boy. When he looked at Calafate´s big, black eyes, he felt enchanted by her beauty. When they found out that their families were enemies, it was too late because they were already deeply in love.

When Calafate´s father learned about this romance, he called the tribe´s sorcerer so he could put an end to this love. “I just want you to keep her sweet eyes,” said the father. And that is what the sorcerer did. He transformed beautiful Calafate into a bush that gave a sweet, black fruit like Calafate´s eyes. The sorcerer put spines around the fruit so the young lover could never touch them.

Calafate´s father never expected that their love was so strong that it would make the young man stay forever next to his once beloved Calafate. This warrior stayed with the bush until he died.

Therefore, if you eat Calafate, you will be enchanted and your heart will be attracted by Patagonia so you`ll want to come back. The power of love within Calafate makes you return to the land where this story once happened.

Hierbas or yerbas?

Torres del Paine-Campamento Italiano

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January 2007

Voici le royaume du silence: la Patagonie. Ce n’est pas un pays, ni une région administrative d’un quelconque état latino-américain. La Patagonie, le royaume du vent, du froid et du silence, c’est cette lointaine terre du bout du monde qui s’étend sur le cône sud de l’Amérique Latine et que se partagent le Chili et l’Argentine.

Pour ceux qui habitent l’extreme austral du continent, la Patagonie n’est pas seulement un territoire, une frontière ou une étendue physique...la Patagonie est un sentiment, est une manière de vivre.

Bien qu’elle n’aie pas de limites officielles, on considère généralement qu’elle couvre les territoires compris entre le 42° parallèle sud matérialisé par le Río Negro en Argentine et le Cap Horn, la dernière extremité de l’Amérique.

Epine dorsale du sous-continent, la Cordillère des Andes s’étire jusqu’aux archipels fuégiens et plonge sous la Mer de Drake et le Cap Horn avant de ressurgir sur la péninsule antarctique. Frontière naturelle (et souvent discutée) entre le Chili et l’Argentine, elle sépare la Patagonie en deux zones géographiquement très distinctes, mais contenant un même coeur, une même culture, les mêmes traditions.

A l’Ouest du continent (le côté chilien), prédomine la forêt australe, dense et soumise à un important régime de précipitations (jusqu’à 4000 mm/an), elle croît jusqu’aux abords des fjords de la côte déchiquetée du Pacifique, sur une bande de terre qui dépasse rarement les 100 km de large...A l’Est (le côté argentin), la cordillère ayant barré l’accès aux trombes d’eau du Pacifique, prédomine une steppe semi-aride constituée en mesetas qui s’étendent jusqu’aux falaises désséchées de la côte Atlantique.

Cette partition se retrouve en Terre de Feu, mais selon un axe est-ouest; au nord la steppe et au sud la montagne.

Vastes secousses télluriques et périodes glaciaires ont donné aux Andes de Patagonie ce relief si particulier de pics et d’aiguilles rocheuses, dont les sommets dépassent rarement les 3000 mètres. Des périodes glaciaires, il est resté deux gigantesques glaciers continentaux: le Champ des Glaces Patagoniennes Nord – Campo de Hielo Patagónico Norte (4500 km²) et le Champ des Glaces Patagoniennes Sud – Campo de Hielo Patagónico Sur (13500 km²), qui déroulent leurs tentacules gelés sur le versant oriental de la cordillère et jusque dans les fjords de la côte pacifique du continent.

La Patagonie reste encore un endroit où la nature est plus forte que les hommes.

Lorsque nous sortons des villes lointaines au Magellan, lorsque nous avons pris la longue route vers Natales ou vers l’ile de la Terre du Feu, a travers le Detroit de Magellan, il y a quelque chose d’invisible, quelque domaine impenetrable qui nous fait l’accueil dans l’étendue de la pampa. C’est le silence.

Le silence acompagne au verger et au gardien des moutons, qui traverse avec son troupeau comme étant un souvenir des années lointains.

Le long silence qu’acompagne le vent, le silence qui tourne autour du coiron, qui enveloppe les incroyables arbres tordus le long de la route.

C’est le même silence qui transite dans les rues nocturnes de Punta Arenas, avec ses restos traditionnels, avec ses plats de mouton grillé avec de pommes de terre, cette ville innondéezzz de souvenirs d’une époque glorieuse du début du siecle: palais extraordinaires a l’architecture europeenne fin XIXème siècle. Silence dans la belle demeure de Sara Braun, le palais le plus beau en plein centre ville, construite par des architectes français...

Silence...silence en Patagonie.

Le royaume du silence Manuel Luis Rodríguez U.

Jineteada in Cerro Castillo, January 12-14, 2006 Jineteada – an explosion of strength, skill and eleganceBy Maarten Hageman

Once again, it has begun; the Jineteada season has arrived. All over Latin America there are people riding wild horses. January 12, 13, 14 you will have a chance to see the very best Chilean Patagonia has to offer.First, let me explain what a Jineteada is. It is a longstanding gaucho tradition, where gauchos demonstrate their wild horse riding skills. The closest you can compare it to is the rodeo in the States. The gauchos start with rounding up all the wild horses, and in a raffle it is decided who will mount which horse. Then, the particular horse is tied to a pole, and a Gaucho will mount it. The build-up takes a few painstaking minutes and is carefully done, as these babies ARE WILD and have A LOT OF POWER. Finally, the horse is set loose, with the object to stay on the horse for a period of time (8 / 12 / or 15 seconds, depending on the category). The next 10-15 seconds is an explosion of strength, skill and elegance; sometimes it looks like a well-choreographed ballet when the gaucho stays on for the full time, and gets lifted off the wild horse by his fellow gauchos. At other times the gaucho is not so lucky and gets thrown 3 – 4 meters through the air, before a painful landing on the ground.The whole experience can be enjoyed with sandwiches, or even a locally prepared asado. The next big event will be in Cerro Castillo, the 13th and 14th of January. The entrance fee will be 1000 Chilean Pesos for the field.

To get there, you can either take the regular bus JBA Patagonia from Puerto Natales to Torres del Paine, from Arturo Prat 258 Local A, and get off at Cerro Castillo, which will leave you outside the village. Price: 1500 Chilean Pesos, one-way. Afterwards, however, you must wait for the bus from Torres del Paine to pick you up, which will cost another 1500 Chilean Pesos.

Another possibility is to take a bus from Natales with María José Bus Company, in Esmeralda 869, which will take you directly to the Jineteada. The bus will wait at the Jineteada, and take you back to Natales. Price: to be confirmed. Contact them to see the possibilities.

Program:Friday, 12th of January:- 22.00 Night rodeo, Basto con encima

Saturday, 13th of January:- 10.30 Calf rodeo- Followed by a roping competition- Gyncana -three different age groups, 5-9 yrs old, then 10-13 yrs old, followed by adults 14 and over)- Sheepherding- Chilean horse race-21.00-05.00 Fiesta (party), entrance fee 2000 Chilean pesos with a beer or soft drink included.

Sunday, 14th of January:- 09.00 Horse race, around Cerro Sol, for minors with parental permission.- 14.00 Catch the pig - Followed by sheep rodeo (children between the ages of 5 and 8 will ride a sheep)

- Followed with the final of the rodeo in the categories: Basto con encima, Montura completa, Grupos Novicio.

The entrance fee to the rodeo field will be 1,000 Chilean Pesos. There will be toilets, food stands and even free camping.

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January 2007www.patagoniablacksheep.com

During your journey through Southern Patagonia’s steppe, woodland or mountains, it is clear that this is a place with very special characteristics.

Southern Patagonia is truly a “geographical island”, where some 10 million years of isolation have resulted in a high number of endemic species; that is to say, many of the species that have evolved here are exclusive to this part of the world. In fact, the unique nature of flora in the region raised interest in Europe at the end of the 19th Century in the studies made by naturalist Charles Darwin.

In order to survive here, the different species have developed particular characteristics to overcome the low temperatures, strong winds, low rainfall and limited hours of daylight during the winter months. For example, during Autumn you can see the beautiful tones of red through to yellow of the Ñirre (Nothofagus Antartica) and Lenga (Nothofagus Pumilio) trees which prepare for winter losing their leaves and becoming dormant, a condition which would have originated in the past under the freezing conditions of the Antarctic. Ñirre and Lenga trees are difficult to distinguish at first glance. The key to recognising them is in the leaves;

look closely at the leaf’s edge and count the rounded lobes between each vein. The Lenga leaf has two regular lobes, while the edges of the Ñirre leaf are irregular.

The Guindo or Magellan Coigue (Nothofagus Betuloides) is an evergreen, typical of Magellan woodland, which has evolved the cells in its leaves in order to achieve more efficient photosynthesis in the winter months. A common trait of all these trees is that they have small, tough, leather-like leaves and a cuticle with a thin waxy layer which helps to regulate evaporation.

Your attention is certain to be drawn to two species of parasitic plants which cohabit with the Nothofagus; the rounded, green Chinese Lantern (“Farolito Chino”, Mysondendrum punctulatum), from which local people on the Island of Tierra del Fuego make the traditional vodka-based “Fuegian Liquor”; and the Pan de Indio (Cyttaria darwinii), a spherical, yellow fungus which causes the tree to form knots which are used by local artisans to make souvenirs. This fungus was an important element of the diet of the Yaghanes, native people of Island

of Tierra del Fuego and today is used is salads as well as to make jam.

Other well known fruits in Patagonian cuisine are the berries of the Chaura (Pernettya Mucronata), a low level bush with attractive red fruits which are produced twice a year, and the fruit of the Wild Currant (“Zarzaparrilla”, Ribes Magallanicum) with its clusters of dark red, intensely-flavoured berries. Both can be made into delicious jam, as can the fruit of the Calafate (Berberis buxifolia), an evergreen bush typical of the Andean shrubland which is famous for the legend that “anyone who eats the Calafate berry will return to these lands”. Its delicious deep blue berries are collected in February to make jam, liquor and ice-cream and they are also enjoyed by many birds, rodents and the Patagonian Fox amongst others.

In Springtime, Southern Patagonia’s pathways are brightened by pretty flowers of the Calceolarias genre (uniflora and biflora), herbaceous perennials which can be seen between December and February on mountain slopes and trails and are commonly known as Virgin’s Slipper (“Zapatito de la Virgen”). You can also find seven species of Orchids, the most common of which are: the Gavilea Lutea, known popularly as the Yellow Orchid or “Barita de Oro”, found in open or semi-shaded areas (studies undertaken in the Torres del Paine National Park suggest that this species is an important part of the diet of the Huemul or Andean Deer (Hippocamelus Bisulcus)); the Chloraea magallanica, known as the Porcelain Orchid, the largest of the species in the region, so called because its green-veined flowers look like cracked porcelain, which is found in thick grassland and shrubby areas of the Southern Patagonian steppe; and the Codornorchis lessonii, known as “Palomita” for its delicate white flowers with pink markings, which

grows individually or in colonies in protected woodland areas.

Alongside water courses, streams and waterfalls you are also likely to find the Ourisia ruelloides or “Flor de la Cascada”, with its attractive deep red flowers in the shape of clarinets. Ranunculus are also common, the best known of which is the Ranunculus peduncularis or “Botón del Oro”, whose large yellow flowers adorn the open grasslands. This is a “pioneer species”, ie it is an excellent coloniser so it is often found along the roadside and on land that has been disturbed. Similarly, the Embothrium coccineum or “Notro” typically colonises former woodland areas. An evergreen bush, its pretty flowers are easy to identify.

So if you are fortunate enough to visit Southern Patagonia in springtime, you are sure to find an unforgettable landscape. Please remember not to pick or cut flowers – the reproduction of the species depends on them. Take a photograph or simply give yourself time on your walk to stop and look at them, consider their shape, their symmetry, their colours, their apparent fragility and the world which is constantly changing around them...this way, others can also enjoy nature’s gifts.

Flora in Southern Patagonia -by Veronica Irribarra

Notro

Zapatito de la VirgenCampanita

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January 2007

The human presence in these remote lands repeats the thirst for adventure that has guided human beings since their origin. The first tribes of hunters that occupied these territories arrived 12,000 years ago. Only 6,000 years ago, the Kaweshkar canoers, along with the Aonikenk (ancient dwellers of the plains), initiated the permanence and continuity of man in this corner of the planet.

Soon after, the arrival of the Spanish captain Juan Ladrilleros (1557-58) marked the discovery of the zone and much later the German pioneer Hermann Eberhard (1892-93) initiated the colonization the area. Even later the arrival of many Chilean people from the island of Chiloé put their seal of identity on this area called Patagonia.

The SélknamThe Sélknam or Onas inhabited the steppes in the north and the woods in the south of Tierra del Fuego. Their way of life was very similar to that of the Aonikenk, although they never used horses. They hunted guanaco, wild birds and rodents. They lived in circular huts made of tree trunks covered with leather and sticks. The Sélknam were tall, formidable, and more aggressive in character than the other aboriginals. They died out having been displaced from their lands or eliminated by the colonists who cleared the land in order to set up farms.

The KawéskarThe Kawéskar, called the Alacalufes by the Spanish, lived spread out in small groups that travelled,

via canoe, through the channels of the Archipelago. They inhabited the area stretching from the Golfo de Penas (Gulf of Pains) to the Brecknock Peninsula, a very damp and rainy area with abundant vegetation. They hunted sea lions, otters and birds, as well as fished and collected shellfish and molluscs. They would take advantage of the meat and skin of any whale beached by the low tides. They built their canoes with pieces of cut bark tied together with vegetable fibers and sealed with a mixture of earth, clay, and roots. Their huts were made with wooden poles which were covered with sea lions skin. The AonikenkThe Aonikenk or Patagones inhabited the steppe from the River Santa Cruz in Argentina in the north to the Straight of Magellan in the south. They spent their time hunting rhea (Ñandú) and other birds, as well as the guanaco whose meat they ate and skin they used for clothing. Their homes were made using leather and wooden poles. All of the group participated in the hunt for guanaco and rheas. The women carried the tools and helped to strengthen the fencing used to isolate the

animals so that they could be attacked by the men with “Boleadoras” and bows and arrows.

The YamanasThe Yamanas or Yaghans, known as the canoeist of the Beagle, were the southernmost inhabitants in the world. They lived along the edges of the Beagle Channel, as well as neighbouring channels, as far south as Cape Horn. They were adapted to living on the coast, hunting southern sea lions for their principal source of food because of their high fat content.

The Spirit of Pioneers -by Marcela Suazo

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January 2007www.patagoniablacksheep.com

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Puerto Williams, Chile

If you still have not heard about Isla Nava-rino, it is not your fault. Most haven´t. This small island is located under Tierra del Fuego and offers the southernmost trek-king routes in the world. In fact, it offers about 99% of the southernmost anything in the world (check it out on a world map sometime!). If you can, take a DAP flight from Punta Arenas to Puerto Williams on Isla Navarino, you never know when you´ll have another chance in your life. If you are really hard core, take a stab at one of the circuits. The maps are out there, but you have to find them. The trails are super muddy and are only marked well in certain sections. These routes are not for the novice; we strongly suggest back-country experience or hiring a guide. Most newer guidebooks include a Isla Navarino section although the information is limited. Inquire locally and be prepared for the un-expected. Head out fully equipped with ex-tra food, fuel and time. For more detailed information about Isla Navarino trekking contact the Puerto Williams municipality at [email protected].

Cerro Bandera circuit: Starting from la Cascada de la Virgen, located 3 km from

downtown, this roundtrip circuit takes ap-proximately 4 hours, with easy to moderate difficulty. From the summit point you can enjoy a magnificent view of the Beagle Chan-nel and Dientes de Navarino range.Circuito Dientes de Navarino: This is the southernmost trekking circuit in the world. The 53km takes at least 4 days and the dif-ficulty is moderate to difficult. The climatic conditions are absolutely a determining factor in the completion of the circuit (September-April). Sendero de Chile: Isla Navarino holds the last 4.5km of the southernmost section of the longest trek in the world. This section on Isla Navarino begins in the Cascada Róbalo area, on the way to Cerro Bandera and ends at the Etno-Botanic Omara park. This is a great trek for viewing the abundant vegetation of Isla Navarino and its beautiful landscapes.

Other circuits in Navarino:Circuito Caleta Unión to Caleta WulaiaCircuito Punta Rosales to Lago Windhond.Circuito Caleta Eugenia to Puerto Toro

Isla Navarino Trekking Guide

The Southernmost Luxury Lodge in the World

There is only one Patagonia. Few people ever see it, in the grand scale of things. Even

fewer people step foot on Tierra del Fuego. “Ushuaia is the southernmost city in the world, right?” - nope. The southernmost place to visit in the world is not in Argentina at all. It’s lo-cated even further south than Tierra del Fuego, on Isla Navarino, Chile - the small, time forgotten, little village of Puerto Williams. Most people haven’t heard of it. Most people will never see it. It’s truly beyond the end of the world. The next stops can only be Cape Horn, Antarc-tica, then the moon. There are some things that stand out in this world. Isla Navarino holds claims to one of these rare jewels - The Lakutaia Lodge, the southernmost luxury lodge in the world. The first time I flew to Puerto Williams, I could see the lodge from the plane, nestled at the foot of the moun-tains. But this was nothing compared to my arrival at its doorstep. Welcomed by smiling staff and an alert crew, I instantly knew this place was a diamond in the rough. I was so far from the outside world in these wild sur-roundings, I was amazed that this place offered such a masterpiece of detail and presentation. A warm, rustic lodge-style hotel that offered everything I could image and hope for. Horseback riding, kayaking, mountain biking, trekking, fly fishing, over flights of Cape Horn, historical tours of the island, in-house seminars, navigation trips into the Beagle Channel, guided tours of Omora Park and topped off with the best food I have ever had.

Lakutaia boasts some of the top chefs in Pata-gonia. The presentation of their national and re-gional food is pure art. Lakutaia holds 24 rooms which keeps the lodge intimate and warm.The lodge is managed by Maria Paulina Fredes, general manager; and Anthony Riggs, outdoor manager. Both with long histories of hotel and outdoor managment, it is obvious when you first

meet them, they love what they do. My stay was a constant distraction of eye candy; at every turn in the lodge you are hit by something beautiful. Either a breathtaking view of the Dientes moun-tain range on one side or the peaks of

Tierra del Fuego on the other. The attention to detail, from the lounge area to the lobby, was impressive.Lakutaia is a remote and practically perfect destination settled in the middle of the Cabo de Hornos Region in Chile, which UNESCO an-nounced as being a World

Biosphere Reserve. The natural beauty that sur-rounds Puerto Williams is truly unmatchable.The Lodge offers all inclusive 3 and 4 day packages as well as individual night stays. While there, you might run into

the groups that use Lakutaia as a jumping point on the way to Antarctica

or Chilean Diplomants that are escaping from the real world for a while. Either way

you will be a part of the elite few that get to experience such

luxury, mixed with such rugged beauty.

You can contact Lakutaia at www.laktaia.com or give them a ring at +56-61 621733.

ITINERARY 7.30 Breakfast at LAKUTAIA 8.00 Embark in our bus for Puerto Navarino 9.30 Embark in our Schooner VICTORY10.00 Start of navigation12.30 Arrive at Wulaia disembark14.00 Return to Victory BBQ aboard Weigh Anchor15.00 Arrive at Puerto Inútil17.30 Arrive at Puerto Navarino19.30 Arrive at LAKUTAIA

NAVIGATION ROUTE

The Schooner Victory is a replica of a cargoschooner from 1870. It was designed by the North American naval architect, WilliamGarden, who's original plans are found on board. The VICTORY was constructed by expert carpenters in the area of Puerto Montt, utilizing in it's construction, cypress wood from the Guaitecas. It was build for navigation expeditions to Cape Horn and has since been reconfigured for day trips with two chambers for 12 passengers each, with leather chairs, two complete bathrooms, dinning room/bar and a new motor.

SPECIFICATIONS

· Length : LOA :23m, LOD :18 m

· Beam: 5.9 mt

· Mast : 23 mt

· Draft : 2.7 mt

· Displacement : 50 ton

· Ballast : 12 ton

· Cargo Capacity : 16 ton

· Sail Surface Area : 185 m2

· Motor : DAEWOO, turbo, 230 hp

· Life Rafts : 2 of 16 person capacity

S.V. VICTORYTECHNICAL DATA

AKUTAIA invites you to navigate in the most austral channelsand fiords of the extreme south of Chile. We embark from the island's northernmost point and it's namesake, Puerto Navarino. L

From there, we navigate south to know firsthand, the historic sites visited by the schooner Beagle in 1934, when Captain Fitzroy, accompanied by the young naturalist, Charles Darwin, brought back from England, the three Yamanas , Jemmy Button, Fuegia Basket and Cork Minster, who where taken with the intent of transculturalization. We sail for Button Island via the Murray Channel to disembark at Wulaia Bay, where the unintentional travelers where first reunited with the people of their original ethnicity. Once there, we will take a leisurely walk to the top of a hill where we can get views of Navarino, Hoste, Button, Wollaston and other small islands that precede the mythical Cape Horn. For our return aboard the Victory, a delicious barbecue will await us, accompanied by excellent Chilean wines to taste once we have weighed anchor for Puerto Inútil. For part of the navigation and depending on climatic conditions, you, our guest, together with the crew, will be able to help hoist the sails of our schooner. Thiswill be, without a doubt, a truly memorable experience of the nautical day fulfilled by Fitzroy and Darwin in these latitudes. In Puerto Inùtil we can observe truly breathtaking plant life, which reinforces the well deserved recognition given by UNESCO to declare this area a “World Biosphere Reserve”. From there we return via the Murray Channel back to Puerto Navarino, the final destination for our navigation at the End of the World.

www.lakutaia.cl

NAVIGATION PROGRAMFOLLOW IN THE WAKE OF DARWIN

Location Spotlight: Hotel Lakutaia - Puerto Williams, Isla Navarino, Chile

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January 2007

Puerto Williams & Isla Navarino Questions & Answers

How do I get to Puerto Williams? To get to Isla Navarino/Puerto Williams you have three main choices: The first is the slightly uncomfortable but adventurous ferry that takes 36 hours from Punta Arenas. The second is the twin otter that flies across the Darwin ranges and takes 1 hour and 15 minutes. The third is to go via Ushuaia and cross the Beagle Channel by zodiac. The choice is yours.Where is the downtown of Pto Willliams? It is strange to think that such a small place seems to have two centers. One is the centro commercial where you will find the post and DAP office, and then there are the supermarkets which are found facing each other along the road Piloto Pardo.Where can I sleep? There are actually quite few places to stay; some are cheaper than others. There is a luxuary hotel which is pretty expensive, and then there is a range of hostels and residenciales around town. Are there any internet cafes on Isla Navarino? Yes! But the connection is not so good. The two cyber cafés are at the Akainij travel agency in the centro comercial and the other is up the hill and is called Cape Horn Net Cyber Café. Can I rent equipment on Isla Navarino? Turismo Shila in the Centro Comercial provides a range of camping equipment. Another possibility is to take a guide who provides the equipment.Where can I find camping gas? Turismo Shila as well as some hostels sell camping gas.What can I find to do in downtown Pto. Williams? Well….you´ll just have to come and find out.How old is this town? The town was established in 1953 as a naval base.Why is the town here? Geopolitics.Can I drink the water on Isla Navarino? Yes you can, but be careful with drinking the water from beaver dams.Are there any animals I need to worry about on Navarino? Not really, but sometimes the dogs can be an annoyance.Do I have to pay anything to trek on the Dientes? Nope, free!Where do I start my trek?At Pilot Pardo Street - the cops. You have to leave info about your itinerary and return date. From there you can head to either one of the two trailheads.

How do I get to Ushuaia from here?Ushuaia is NORTH (as in not south) from Williams. There is a Zodiac which has regular crossing from Isla Navarino to Ushuaia. Its fairly pricey but still a good option if you don’t want to backtrack. Information for this can be found at Café Angelus at the Centro Comercial.Where can I find a Dientes map? Ooooohh... That’s a tough one. There are trekking guides available at the tourism agencies. As there are only a few printed they usually ask you to photocopy them. Why are half of the buildings white in Pto. Williams? The white buildings are the Armada (Navy) buildings which house their offices and families.Is there a money machine in Williams? Yep, and it’s 24hrs as well, located at the Banco de Chile.Can I rent a car in Pto. Williams? No.What time do the stores open? Usually between 10:00 and 13:00, and then from 16:00/17:00 to 20:00. The supermarkets are open from nine in the morning to twelve at night.How many people visit Williams in a season?Well, in a year there are about 8,000 visitors to the island. Of this about 6,000 are cruiseship passengers and 2,000 overnight tourists that usually go trekking. How big is Isla Navarino? 40 by 100KM.Why does everyone say that Ushuaia is the southernmost city in the world? This has been a false rumor that has been circulating for years to draw people to Ushuaia. Some say there are differences between a city and a town, but whatever - there is no place to live further south then Puerto Willliams.How far is Cape Horn? It’s about 165km south of Puerto Williams.Can I get to Cape Horn or Antarctica from Puerto Williams?Yes you can, but it will cost ya. Several yachts leave Puerto Williams to these destinations during the summer season.Are there any other towns on Isla Navarino?Yes, but they are even smaller. Puerto Toro is truly the southernmost town in the world and is only reached by boat. Puerto Navarino is basically two families big and then there are some farms around.What is the population of Puerto Williams?2,262

The Municipality and the Puerto Williams Tourism Association Welcomes you to Puerto Williams, Isla Navarino, Chile

Hostales/Hostels Fono/Phone Direccion/Adress e-mail address

Cabo de Hornos 621067 Ricardo Maragaño 146 [email protected] 621033-621384 Patricio Capedeville 41 [email protected]ón 621227-621227 Ricardo Maragaño 168 [email protected] del Cab. de Hornos 621140-621359 Uspashun 64 [email protected] 621267 Villa Ukika [email protected] 621075 Yelcho 230 [email protected] 621116-621224 Piloto Pardo 222 [email protected] 621118-621334 Piloto Pardo 260 [email protected] Akainij 621173-621173 Austral 22 [email protected] Lakutaia 621733-621298 Seno Lauta s/n [email protected] El Padrino 621136 Costanera 276 [email protected]

Restaurantes/ Restaurants Café Agelus 621080 Centro comercial norte 151 [email protected] naval de yates Micalvi 621042 Seno Lauta Costanera s/n [email protected] de Hornos 621067 Ricardo Maragaño 146 [email protected] 621033-621384 Patricio Capedeville 41 [email protected] de Navarino 621074 Centro comercial Sur 14 Patagonia 621267-621075 Yelcho 230 [email protected]

Agencias de turismo/ Tourist agenciesTurismo Akainij 621327-621173 Centro comercial Sur 156 [email protected] aventura Shila 621366 O´Higgins 322 [email protected] del Cab. de Hornos 621140-621359 Uspashun 64 [email protected] SIM 621150- 621225 Ricardo Maragaño 168 [email protected] Native tours 621183 Centro Comercial Sur 154b [email protected] Victory Cruises 621010-621092 Teniente Muñoz 118 www.victory.cruises.com

Café Internet/ Cyber CaféCape Horn Net cyber café 621010-621092 Teniente Muñoz 118 [email protected] Akainij 621327-621173 Centro comercial Sur 156 [email protected]

Tiendas de Souvenier/Giftshops55°Sur 621265 Centro comercial norte 147 Isla hornos souvenier 621734 Centro comercial sur 140b [email protected]

Servicio de guias/guide servicesFuegia&CO 621251 Yelcho 232 [email protected]

Transporte/TransportsServicio de taxi 621387 Mario Leal 145Servicios maritimos y turisticos 621015 Costanera 436 [email protected] DAP 621114-621051 Centro comercial sur 151 [email protected] boating 54 2901 436193 Gob.Godoy 190-Ususahia [email protected] peregrino austral 621015 Costanera 436 [email protected] Lancha Dep. 621294-621075 Yelcho 230 [email protected] agencia maritima 621049 Arturo Prat 35 [email protected]

Otros Servicios Cabalgatas el padrino 621136 Costanera 262 [email protected] Martin Gusinde 621043 Com.Aragay 1 esq.Gusinde [email protected] del Beagle 621136 costanera s/n [email protected]

Puerto Williams & Isla Navarino Tourist Directory

Beyond the end of the world...

Puerto Williamson Isla Navarino

For information contact:Av. B. O’Higgins 189 - Phone 621011 - 621013 [email protected]

$Micalvi

Ave. Costanera

Bernardo O’Higgans

Yelcho

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Pres. Ibañez

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Beagle Channel

Via CuatroVia Tres

Subteniente Capdeville

Tte. Muñoz

Piloto Pardo

Puerto Williams, Chile

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www.patagoniablacksheep.com January 2007

Ph

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Hostel oro Fueguino Fagnano 356 Punta arenas - CHile

reservations: [email protected]

Roca 907 #10 Punta Arenas, Chileph. +56-61 225889

Money ExchangePatagonia will change your life.

We can change your money.

Open all day

En un mundo de lejanía y viento, en un lugar donde los mares del mundo se tocan la piel, donde ser nómade es parte de una necesidad vital. Al igual que las antiguas tribus que habitaron estos mundos, al igual que los exploradores y sus vidas, son maderas del mundo que duermen en silencio en las costas del Cabo de Hornos la materia prima de Jimena Saiter para esculpir sus rostros y figuras. Y así como llegaron estas maderas a sus playas desde quien sabe donde , así algunas de ellas quizás vuelvan a navegar al garete por los mares del mundo esta vez vistiendo su rostro y semblante tras la metamorfosis que les provoco las preguntas de la escultora.…muy pronto comprendí que este viaje no sería un reporte de senderos y turismo, sino más bien una navegación pausada y nómade por esas historias que llamaré “El alma de Williams”.

Nómades del Mar - by Diego Araya

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January 2007

Km.38 norte, Comuna Torres del Payne Patagonia Chile

Hotel Posada Tres PasosYour country hotel...

Tel:(56) (2) 1969630 [email protected]

A new magazine called Territorio Sur will be hitting the streets soon. The magazine began as an answer to the need for promoting some of the sports activities which have boomed recently here in Chile as well as the rest of the world. Chile, due to its morphology, presents spectacular natural landscapes to practice these activities, and in particular, Patagonia. In Patagonia diverse landscapes converge to give fantastic alternatives of imposing beauty to practice various sports activities such as kayak, mountain bike, horse riding, trekking, climbing or kite boarding.In this first issue we want to show the benefits that the city of Puerto Natales has to offer tourists as the nerve centre and departure point for the pursuit of adventure.They will pinpoint not only the top companies dedicated to the sports offered but they will show the locations, sites, hostels, restaurants amongst others which convert this city into a capital of adventure sports.

New magazine promoting Patagonia

Interns needed in Patagoniaerratic rock Hostel in Puerto Natales, Chile is now taking applications for volenteer interns for the 06/07 season. Volunteers exchange room and board for living and working in Patagonia. Minimum time slots begin at 1 month stays. For more information contact Erratic Rock at +56-61 410355 or through their web sitewww.erraticrock.com

Happy Belated Birthday Black Sheep!Ever forgotten somebody’s birthday? Ever for-gotten your own? Well, we did! The V2, Issue 3 of the BS was our 1 year birthday and it passed us by without us even knowing it! No gifts, no singing, we just outright forgot. Thanks to some emails from abroad (and the ‘oso’ rubbing my nose in it), we were quickly informed of our oversight. The Black Sheep wants to thank all of the over-whelming support we have received, locally and internationally this last year. Our humble rag is now commonplace amongst travelers and backpackers in Patagonia. Our first year was a incredible success and we are constantly being surprised by where the Black Sheep is finding readers. So, Happy Birthday Black Sheep, you are 1 year and 1 month old!

Tired and weary travellers now have an addition-al reason to spend a relaxing day in Puerto Na-tales. Whether you are planning a trip to Torres del Paine or returning, a sports massage will aid in your muscle recovery. Andy Tubbs, a profes-sional Adventure Racer and Massage Therapist from San Fransisco, California will be providing his services at Mandala Andino until March. A sports massage is not only for recovery, it’s also a great way to prepare your body to carring a heavy pack for multiple days over uneven ter-rain. Sport massages are unlike relaxation mas-sages because they target specific muscle groups at their trigger point. A sports massage is much more invigorating than a traditional swedish massage. Appointments can be made seven days a week at 415749.

Sports Massage now available in Natales

New Torres del Paineticket re-entry policyThis year Torres del Paine has a new re-entry policy. If you´re in the park and need or want to go back to Puerto Natales and afterwards return to the park, you now have 1 day to do so without paying the entrance fee again. If you want to re-enter make sure to bring your passport and get your ticket stamped at the entrance before you leave. Next day you can enter for free...

NIKO’S IIA d v e n t u r e Tr a v e l A g e n c y

Phillipi 528 - Puerto Natales, Chile 56-61 413543www.nikostwoadventure.

*Regular Daily buses to Torres del Paine*Regular One Day Tours to Torres del Paine

*Excursions to Torres Base

INGENIERIA Y CONSTRUCCIONESEberhard 599 -Puerto Natales - fono 412592

[email protected]

Address: Bories 655 L-2Phone: (56-61) 222219 - cell: 09 91229555

Punta Arenas, [email protected]

Gear.Mountain HouseBernardita

Residencial

Regular dorms & Private rooms with breakfast, hot showers, phone, private bathroom and cable

TV - Tourist Infomation - Torres del Paine & surrounding areas

O´Higgins 76� - ph & fax (�6-61) 411162Puerto Natales, Chile

email [email protected]

KAWESKAR

Blanco Encalada 754 · 414553Puerto Nartales, Chile

...and the backpackers shall inherit the earth...

HOSTEL

Trail Tips... Nalgene Bottles

If you’re not sure what a Nalgene bottle is, just find yourself a Yank, they will probably have one. These Lexan bottles are quickly becoming industry standard for trekkers and climbers. They are bullet proof, won´t leak and are guaranteed for life. These little bottles are a must while trekking. The large mouth-type makes for easier filling at a water source and for harvesting snow in an alpine environment, but a little more difficult to drink out of while walking. Here are a few good tricks...1. While making your nightly boil for dinner on the trail, boil an extra liter to make your Nalgene a great hot water bottle for your sleeping bag. This will raise the average temperature of your bag and will do wonders for sore trekking feet. Throw your wet socks or gloves down there with the hot water bottle and it will dry everything like a oven in your sleeping bag.2. Want eggs on the trail? Break a few eggs into a Nalgene for omelettes on that first morning out. This is a mess-free way of creating a breakfast upgrade. 3. Using a large mouth Nalgene to carry and protect dry & powdered goods is another great use. Whether it’s oatmeal or powdered soup mix for the long haul, a Nalgene can give you a hard, waterproof case.

Comfortable RoomsFully equiped Kitchen

Laundry ServiceInternet and Telephone

View of the Strait of MagellanPatagonian Drinks

Coffee shop

José Noguiera 1600+56-61 241357

[email protected] Arenas, Patagonia, Chile

21 de Mayo 1469 Punta Arenas +56-61 [email protected]

GuanacoÑandú

CentollakaikenCastorKrill

Cordero

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EL C ONVENTILLOHOSTAL - ALBERGUE

Pje Korner 1034Punta Arenas, ChilePhone +56-61 242311

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www.patagonialternativa.com

Everything inPatagonia.

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patagoni alternativa

The name alone quickens the pulse and sets the imagination in motion. Patagonia. It has been a place of adventure, trial and discovery for hundreds of years. A truly unique region, Patagonia has both an astounding environment and an equally engaging history. Dictated mostly by the accumulation, movement and ablation of ice, Patagonia boasts some of the world’s most sculpted landscapes. From the Torres Del Paine to Los Cuernos, Mt. Fitzroy and Cerro Torre, huge granite towers shroud the area in an air of grandeur.

Dramatic fjords divide the west coast of Patagonia into an array of inlets and islands created by the cutting power of glacial melt. Patagonia’s latitude between 39 and 55 degrees south, combined with the cold temperatures influenced by the Humboldt Current off the coast of Chile, have caused Patagonia to develop the largest ice sheets in the southern hemisphere today outside of Antarctica. These ice sheets dominated the landscape periodically for thousands of years and their consequent movement has chiseled out the finer features of the region. The stark natural beauty of the area, combined with the unrelenting weather, has made this place famous around the globe. It is a place in which to truly observe the awesome power of nature.

The dramatic scenery found in this region of the world is coupled with an equally interesting history. The names of the early

explorers of Patagonia read like a who’s who of the international mountaineering community. From the famous English explorers H.W. Tillman and Eric Shipton, to the Italians Toni Egger and Cesare Maestri, and countless others, Patagonia has drawn some of the biggest names in climbing to its unique, isolated landscape.

With serious climbing expeditions dating back to at least 1914, it took some years before the monster towers of Patagonia were climbed. The 1950s may have been the biggest decade for Patagonian exploration and climbing. In 1952, the famous Mt. Fitzroy saw its first ascent by Lionel Terray and Guido Magnone. Famed English explorer H.W. Tillman completed the first traverse of the South Patagonia Ice field in 27 days in 1955 to 1956, covering 60 kilometers. Eric Shipton, another notable Englishman, completed three large expeditions to the area in 1958, collecting a large number of plant species from remote areas. 1959 saw the now controversial first ascent of Cerro Torre by Italians Cesare Maestri and Toni Egger. Egger died in an avalanche after reportedly reaching the summit. Maestri claimed that the camera was taken away with Egger. Although Egger’s body was found in subsequent years, no camera or any other evidence of their reaching the summit has ever been produced. With well over 20 attempts to repeat this route, no one to this day has been able to conquer the upper north face, adding to the doubt surrounding the first ascent. Also in 1959, Shipton completed another expedition near the southern ice field, rediscovering the Lautaro volcano, which had been forgotten for 30 years.

Subsequent years saw more and more exploration and first ascents by Shipton and his peers. Patagonia has now become an international destination for any serious climber looking for long alpine routes. The weather is most often the limiting factor of the climbs. First ascents are still being seen every year, not only on new routes on previously summited peaks, but also on peaks that have never before been climbed. The development of Patagonia as a testing ground for up-and-coming climbers will be interesting to watch in the years to come, as more and more routes are added to climber’s tick lists.

The climbing history of Patagonia, however, is only a small part of the region’s identity. First reached by Westerners in the 1520s, Patagonia has always been a place of adventure and wild imagination. Magellan’s famous circumnavigation of the globe brought Patagonia into contact with the rest of the world. Magellan’s crew, the few that survived anyhow, would spread the

fame of the Patagones, or the big-feet. The Patagonian giants, taller than a galleon, clad with animal skins and speaking in strange tongues, were sought after for many years by any sailor coming through the straights near Tierra del Fuego. In reality, however, pre-contact times saw four major tribes of indigenous people inhabiting this region. The Aonikenk, the Kaweskar, the Yamana and the Selk’nam lived in the different regions of Patagonia and Tierra Del Fuego. Unfortunately paralleling the story of North American native tribes, these indigenous people also faced constant relocation to various reservations, as well as epidemic diseases that severely reduced their populations. Some early anthropological studies, however, were able to document the elaborate ceremonial lives of some of these tribes.

Another famous expedition to come to Patagonia was headed by an ambitious captain of the British navy. Robert Fitzroy took two trips to Patagonia aboard the Beagle. Although Fitzroy played a large role in the surveying of much of Patagonia and in the development of modern day meteorology, the Beagle is perhaps most well known for its second journey, when a young man named Charles Darwin accompanied the ship as a naturalist.

Many sailors would come to see the rugged coastline of Patagonia as the straights near Tierra del Fuego made it an important trading route. Being one of the most viable trade routes to and from the west coast of North America, Punta Arenas, established in 1848, quickly became an important port town during the California gold rush. It was however not Californian gold, but the “white gold of Magellan” that brought true prosperity to the region. Sheep were introduced to the area between 1852 and 1877, and with the vast plains of eastern Patagonia, wool quickly became the primary product of the area. The wealth of the city is seen in the various mansions, artwork and delicate architecture of Punta Arenas. The wealth of the city declined, however, almost as quickly as it developed. As a port city, Punta Arenas relied heavily on trade. Ships from all over the world would come through, leaving goods from around the world and taking away raw materials such as wool. With the opening of the Panama Canal, however, this region was quickly forgotten as a trade route.

Today, many of the cities in Patagonia rely heavily on tourism. Towns like Puerto Natales, only miles from the entrance to Torres del Paine National Park, cater to largely seasonal crowds who come to walk and wonder at the rugged mountains of this famous part of the globe. The

governments of both Chile and Argentina have both recognized the value the unique region and have taken steps to ensure its preservation. Nahuel Huapi National Park in Argentina, created in 1922, was the first national park established in South America. It occupies 785,000 hectares of Patagonian steppe region and Andean forest and exemplifies the mountainous environment characteristic of Patagonia. Los Glaciares National Park is another important Argentine park, covering 600,000 hectares. Designated a world heritage site in 1981 by the United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization, Los Glaciares is home to not only Mt. Fitzroy, but also the Perito Moreno glacier, with an 80 meter ice cliff that has become a huge tourist attraction. In Chile, Torres Del Paine National Park, established in 1959, is the most popular of the Patagonian parks. In 1978, UNESCO declared this park a world biosphere reserve, and it is home to the famous Torres del Paine and Cuernos del Paine. Laguna San Rafael National Park is another important national park, located on Chile’s coast. It alone encompasses more that 1.7 million hectares and is home to the tallest peak in the southern Andes, Mt. San Valentin, at 4,058 meters.

The austere but astounding landscape of Patagonia has attracted many conservation groups. Perhaps the most recognized of these groups is Patagonia Ltd., a clothing company. Started by world famous climber Yvonn Chouinard, Patagonia pledges 1 percent of its profits to conservation efforts in the area. After retiring in 1993 from her CEO position with the Patagonia clothing company, Kristine Tompkins moved to Patagonian Chile. In 2000, she founded the Patagonia Land Trust (PLT), now known as Conservacion Patagonica, in order to raise funds to protect natural areas in Patagonia. PLT has saved over 1.4 million acres in Chile’s Valdivian rainforest and Argentina’s Esteros wetlands, and in 2002, made possible the designation of Argentina’s first coastal national park, Monte Leon, with a 1.7 million dollar donation. PLT currently has several other projects underway to preserve the natural beauty and biodiversity of Patagonia.

As the tourism industry grows in the area, the governments of both Chile and Argentina will be faced with new issues surrounding the preservation of Patagonia’s unique environment. The various conservation groups, combined with the international outdoor community’s interests, will no doubt play a large role in shaping the future of this distinct region.

A Patagonian (climbers) history -by Jon Shea

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January 2007

Feeling Dirty...?The Milodon Laundry Service

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Local Horse Guide Directory in Alphabetical Order

Blue Green AdventureBulnes 1200. Puerto NatalesPhone 56 (61) [email protected]

Baqueano Zamora Baquedano 534. Puerto NatalesPhone (56-61)[email protected]

Chile NativoEberhard 230. Casilla 42 Puerto NatalesPhone: (56-61) 411835-415474 www.chilenativo.com [email protected]

Estancia Tres PasosKm.38 norte. Torres del Paynefono (56-2) [email protected]

Estancia PeralesEberhard 560. Pto. Natales

Phone (56-61) 411978-411176www.bagualesgroup.com [email protected]

Estancia RosarioBulnes 37 . Pto.Natales

Phone (56-61) [email protected]

Estancia Rio Los CiervosJose Nogueira 1255

Phone (56-61) 262281- 710219www.soloexpediciones.com

[email protected]

Estancia TravelPuerto Bories 13-B, Puerto Natales

Fono (56-61) [email protected]

A Patagonian Tradition .Horses. Estancia Cerro Guido

Comuna Torres del PainePatagonia, Chile

Phone (56-61) 21964807www.lodgecerroguido.cl

GOLDEN DRAGONR E S T A U R A N T

Bulnes 439 - Puerto Natales Ph +56-61 413110M anuel Señoret 908 - Punta Arenas Ph +56-61 241663

Mountain Shelters : Grey - DicksonCampings: Grey - Dickson - Los Perros

Cama - Ducha - Comidas - Bar / Bed - Shower - Meals - Bar - Rental EquipmentReservas para todos los refugios y Programas con full servicio - Bus Regular al Parque

Reservations for all the shelters & Full Service Programs - Regular Bus to the Park

Torres del Paine National Park

[email protected] +56-61 412592

er ra t i c rock 2A hoste l a l te rnat ive for couples

www.er ra t ic rock .com

benjamin zamora 732 Pto Natales

ph +56 61 414317

Patagonia

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January 2007

79% Water & Ice.You´ll need a kayak.

Patagonia.

www.aquanativapatagonia.com

Aqua NativaSea Kayak Patagonia

Eberhard 161 Pto. Natales, Chile

+56-61 415749

Leave No Trace is a program developed by the US Forest Service, the National Outdoors Leadership School (NOLS) and The Bureau of Land Manage-ment. It is designed to educate people on how to minimize their impact on the environment while camping. This is an abbreviated version of the 7 principles, for more extensive information please visit www.nols.edu.

1. Plan Ahead and Prepare

Know the regulations and special concerns for the area you’ll visit.

Prepare for extreme weather, hazards and emergencies. Schedule your trip to avoid times of high use. Visit in small groups. Split larger parties into groups of 4 - 6. Repackage food to mi-nimize waste. Use a map and compass to eliminate use of rock cairns, flagging or marking paint.

2. Travel and Camp on Durable Surfaces

Durable surfaces include established trails and

campsites, rock, gravel, dry grasses or snow. Protect riparian areas by camping at least 200 feet away from lakes & streams. Good campsites are found, not made. Altering a site is not necessary.

In popular areas: Walk single file in the middle of the trail, even when wet or muddy. Keep campsites small. Focus activity in areas where vegetation is absent.

In pristine areas: Disperse use to prevent the creation of campsites and trails. Avoid places whe-re impacts are just beginning.

3. Dispose of Waste Properly

Pack it in, pack it out. Inspect your campsite and rest areas for trash or spilled foods. Pack out all trash, leftover food, and litter. Deposit solid human waste in catholes dug 6 to 8 inches deep at least 200 feet from water, camp and trails. Cover and disguise the cathole when finished. Pack out toilet paper and hygiene products.

To wash yourself or your dishes, carry water 200

feet away from streams or lakes and use small amounts of biodegradable soap. Scatter strained dishwater.

4. Leave What you Find

Preserve the past, observe but do not touch, cultural or historic structures and artifacts. Leave rocks, plants and other natural objects as you find them. Avoid introducing or transporting non-na-tive species. Do not build structures, furniture, or dig trenches.

5. Minimize Campfire Impacts

Campfires can cause lasting impacts to the back country. Use a lightweight stove for cooking and enjoy a candle lantern for light. Where fires are permitted, use established fire rings, fire pans or mound fires. Keep fires small. Only use sticks from the ground that can be broken by hand. Burn all wood and coals to ash, put out campfires complete-ly, then scatter cool ashes.

6. Respect Wildlife

Do not follow or approach wildlife; observe from a distance.

Never feed animals. Feeding wildlife damages their health, alters natural behaviours, and exposes them to predators and other dangers. Protect wildlife and your food by storing rations and trash securely. Control pets at all times, or leave them at home. Avoid wildlife during sensitive times i.e. mating, nesting, raising young, or winter.

7. Be Considerate of Other Visitors

Respect other visitors and protect the quality of their experience. Be courteous, yield to other users on the trail. Step to the downhill side of the trail when encountering pack stock. Take breaks away from trails and other visitors. Let nature’s sounds prevail. Avoid loud voices and noises. Source http://www.nols.edu/lnt/principles.shtm

Leaving No Trace in Patagonia

traditional Chilean lamb asados, grilled meats, seafood and shellfish.

Experience Chile...•Located across from Plaza de Armas•

Specializing in...

Carlos Bories 430 Puerto Natales, Chile ph +56-61 410999

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Eusebio Lillo 1417Puerto Natales, Chile

ph +56-61 412052

Gymnasium & SpaHand & Foot Therapiesmachine & free weights

saunasun bed

Massage roomChocolate Therapy

On the trail, you need to be aware of others. Instead of taking your break in the middle of the trail, try to move well off to the side, so others can pass by eas-ily, without compromising the vegetation. If I am taking a substantial break to eat lunch, fix a blister, etc., I will try to move out of sight as well. Then others can pass me by without even knowing I´m there. We both keep our sense of solitude, which is important to the wilderness experience.

While trekking in a team, try to spread out by 20 full paces (or more) to avoid a bumper to bumper if you come head on with another group. With heavy

packs, you might not have a chance to avoid a collision. Spread out and look around at the views. You don´t need to be staring at the backside of the person in front of you all the time.

Sticking to the trails is important. Stepping off the trail to avoid a muddy patch or a puddle only widens the trail or creates a second, or sometimes third, trail. In time, these side trails will become muddy as well. The same holds true while in Tor-res del Paine or on the Dientes Circuit (Patagonia). Remember, boots are meant to get dirty.

Trail Tips... Trail Etiquette

In Chile, the food is not sophisticated, but it is delicious. There is a wide variety of meats, including lamb, pork, beef, fish, shellfish, and poultry. If you´re lucky enough, you´ll taste guanaco, ñandu, boar, or deer. (A lot of meat... good luck if you are a vegetarian!) But you´ll also find good, strong drinks. The Chileans have a pisco culture. Pisco is like a whiskey made from grapes. They are very keen on making drinks based on pisco and there are many pisco-mixed drinks out there. The first in line is a Pisco Sour. Try different Pisco Sours in different places because they can be made differently. There is also a great Calafate Sour based on the same mix. But you can also make them yourself in your hostel, or even once you get home.

Pisco Sour3 parts pisco 1 part lemon juice Icing sugar 1 egg white Ice cubes.

Blend the pisco and lemon juice. While blending, add powdered sugar to taste, the egg white, and the ice cubes. In a minute, it will be ready to drink. In some families, it is almost a tradition to welcome guests with a toast of pisco sour, so go for it and enjoy!

Chilean Moonshine

Page 19: Black Sheep Jan 07

19

January 2007

I was a kid when I first heard about the great leader and explorer: Shackleton. By then I led the normal life of any accommodated Chilean kid from Santiago. I remember, I was a lazy boy scout and a mediocre one on top. I was one of those who, wanting to be leaders, neither approved nor supported the activities scheduled in the official program, and who, instead always proposed new, crazy, imaginative and probably dangerous alternatives.

It was in the middle of one of the intolerable and excruciatingly boring speeches of our group commander, when I heard the name of an Antarctic hero, I must have been 9 at that time, a name I shall never forget: Shackleton.

When I was not at school I spent my free days at my uncle’s farm. This place was a fabulous corner of secrets, mysteries and adventures, but most of all it was the home of my uncle and living idol “Pato”, as he wanted me to call him.He was the one who first invited me to dream of the mystery of the Egyptian pyramids, the secrets hidden under the Palenque ruins in the Mayan jungle, and the dream like stories of Ítalo Calvino, the writer.

Once at dinner, I was boring Pato by telling him all my school anecdotes when suddenly I mentioned the name of Shackleton. Just mentioning that name changed my uncle’s expression. It turned out that for him, the voyage of the Endurance was not just another tale of adventure, for him it was the most extraordinary testimony of the spirit of courage, survival instinct, leadership and the symbolism they represented on the eve of the First World War was a unique sample of mankind’s eternal and beautiful contradictions. That evening Pato talked for hours, and I listened and listened and just couldn’t get bored. Since that night, Shackleton and his crew became for me a reference for adventure, any adventure, and it was probably this spirit of adventure that eventually brought me to Patagonia.

Many years later, I was already living in Patagonia, my mother called me from Santiago, telling me that there was an old friend of hers inviting me to stay for a weekend at their old house in Punta Arenas.

On a sidenote, whoever is interested in Patagonia has to learn about this town. Punta Arenas is not a touristy resort, it does not (yet) provide those common tourist amenities that you find in other places; it is simply the genuine capital of the Patagonian tradition. The family I was going to visit had left the house many years earlier, but they kept it because of its cultural value. It goes with out saying that I gladly accepted the invitation.

It was in July of 2002, in the middle of the southern winter, when I called Don Juan and Doña María the old couple who were taking care of the house. Next thing I knew, there I was, in this incredible house. Not big but tall, old English architecture, full of books, pictures, paintings and memories.

One night, it was just before dinner, when Don Juan came to see me in the living room. “Is everything OK Mr. Salas?” he kindly asked. I told him that I could hardly believe all the things that were in there. Those books and paintings, the furniture, all this must somehow be, the core of Patagonian history. “Yes, it is truly our treasure”, he answered. “I’m glad you can appreciate it, so please, before you leave, remember to sign our guest book, all our important guests have signed it, and since you can appreciate what is in this house, I guess you deserve to be in the book as well”. Without further comment he passed me an old, heavy, leather covered guest book. The living room window looked out to the Straight of Magellan; there was a little tea table with a sofa next to it. With a beer in hand I sat down and carefully started to browse this enigmatic book. Pinochet’s signature was there, and so were those of all sorts of ministers. European aristocrats, millionaires and billionaires mingled with a few murderers, aborigines killers, hunters, gold diggers, poets, painters, Nobel Prize winners - in other words, all the fauna that, incredibly enough, is also part of Patagonia.

When I looked at the pages at the very beginning of the book, I found a picture with a signature and a few lines that were written in the same handwriting and with the same pen:

“We were the fools who could not rest in the dull earth we left behind but burned with passion for the south, drank strange frenzy from its wind.

The world where the wise men sit at ease, fade on our unregretful eyesAnd thus, across this uncharted seas, we stagger on our own enterprise.”July of 1916, Punta Arenas.

Goosebumps, moisture in my eyes, a shiver down my spine, and a memory that will stay with me for as long as I live. Imagine, my hero, the eternal leader and survivor had written a poem just for me and finally - exactly 86 years later – it was delivered on the shores of the Magellan Straight. It was, in this very same book I was going to sign, the signature of Sir Ernest Henry Shackelton.

Sincerley, Shackleton by Max Salas

ÑANDÚHand Crafts

Eberhard �01 Puerto Natales, Chile ph. 414�82 - 41�660 - 41��60Cerro Castillo ph. 6919�2 - 41�06� ANEXO 122

Books & MapsPostcards & Stamps

Souvenirs

HOTEL ALCAZAR

M.Balmaceda 722 • 412889 [email protected]

...with all private bathrooms

On the corner of Magallanes and Señoret ph 56-61-413723 www.cormorandelasrocas.com [email protected]

Hostal

Isla MorenaTwin Rooms

Double RoomsLibrary

RestaurantTomás Rogers �8 - Puerto Natales, Chile - (�6-61) 411162

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D o w n To w n h o s t e l

n e a r s h o p p i n g & s e r v i c e s

Address: Armando Sanhueza 555Phone: (56-61) 222219 - 221009

Cell Ph: 09 91229555 - 09 84394174Punta Arenas, Chile

[email protected]

Eusebio Lillo 1417 ph 412052Puerto Natales, Chile

Rustike

Candles · Lamps · Picture frames

Incense · Mirrors · Art · Crafts

Stained glass · Handicrafts

Page 20: Black Sheep Jan 07

www.patagoniablacksheep.com

20E b e r h a r d 1 6 1 - P u e r t o N a t a l e s , C h i l e - p h + 5 6 - 6 1 4 1 5 7 4 9

C l e a n & N a t u r a l O u t d o o r t u b sM a s s a g e s

N a t u r a l B a rO u t d o o r C e n t e r

R e l a x a t i o n T h e r a p i e s

r e l a x a t i o n s p e c i a l i s t s . . .

El vino en Chile ha alcanzado un nivel altísimo de competencia a nivel mundial. Factores climáticos y geográficos indiscutibles mas una tradición de mas de cinco siglos de producción vitivinícola y una visión técnica empresarial han hecho que hoy camine de la mano del cobre y se muestre como bandera identitaria ante los mercados internacionales.Al recordar un poco de historia ….Cristóbal Colon en su segundo viaje a las Antillas introdujo la vid en América, si hablamos de responsables de la conquista española es quien, dio curso a la producción de vinos en el continente, comenzó paralela a la ocupación de terrenos “en nombre de Dios y del Rey “ ya que la Evangelización requería como parte del ritual del sacramento de la Eucaristía el vino como parte fundamental.Es por esta razón que en nuestro país se cultivan variadas cepas, que fueron traídas de Francia por los grande viticultores de la época, como son: sauvignos blanc, chardonnay, merlot, carmenere y cavernet sauvignon siendo esta ultima la gran llamada cepa madre de Chile por producir los mejores vinos tintos del mundo, sin embargo la característica relevante es que pertenecen a la original Vitis Vinífera, diferenciándola de países europeos en que sus principales vides se asientan en porta injertos debido a cierta plaga de origen norteamericano, ataco

a fines del 1800 las vides europeas causando perdidas en la producción de vinos del continente.Esta plaga llamada filoxera vivió algún tiempo en Norteamérica sin producir problemas a las vides allí plantadas, al parecer por ser resistentes a sus efectos, pero al introducirlo en Europa, comenzó a atacar a Francia, España y luego Italia, provocando uno de los desastres mas graves conocidos en la agricultura del viejo continente. Al hablar de vinos, se puede decir que Chile sin lugar a dudas es un paraíso vitivinícola ya que posee condiciones extraordinarias para el cultivo de cepas que mas tarde producirán vinos. De estas se destacan tres características principales: el clima, el estado de aislamiento que presenta Chile y la ubicación privilegiada con límites y barreras naturales. Pero lo más importante es la calidad de la uva que obtendremos: la variedad de vinífera junto al clima y al suelo son los tres factores determinaran el terroir ya que tienen una incidencia directa sobre el sabor, color y aroma del vino posteriormente.

En cuanto a condición climática: Chile es un país ideal si analizamos esta condición, a pesar de ser muy largo posee en general un clima templado, lo que da las cuatro estaciones bien marcadas, lo

que se traduce que en noviembre hasta pasada la vendimia en el mes de abril mas o menos son muy escasas las lluvias; las temperaturas altas del verano tiene grandes ventajas desde un punto de vista sanitario ya que nuestro país presenta una carga de pesticidas muy bajos, lo que es interesante internacionalmente; al igual que la amplitud térmica que supera los 17ªC, sin contar el alto grado de luminosidad que permite cosechas bastante sanas. El invierno se presenta siempre lluvioso y bien frío y es en esta estación en que las vides están en dormancia, es decir duermen, es por esto que no les afecta que llegue de pronto la primavera suave y ayude al despierte de la parra. Todo favorece el crecimiento sano de la planta minimizando así infecciones y enfermedades por lo que logra la madurez deseada, como también la obtención de gran concentración de aroma y color.

Dada esta misma condición es que encontramos diferentes valles con distintas características que favorecen la producción vitivinícola. Estos se ubican desde el Valle del Limari cerca del desierto en la IV Región de Coquimbo hasta la IX Región de la Araucania.

Gentileza de Emporio de la Pampa.

Chile, un país de Vinos -by Carmen Gloria Barros International Black Sheepwww.patagoniablacksheep.com

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