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� Welcome to Puerto Natales, Patagonia de Chile
Published by Southern Cross Ltda.Black Sheep • The Puerto Natales Organizer
Puerto Natales, Patagonia, [email protected]
ph +56•61•412239
Production Editor • Design: Rustyn Mesdag
Business Director • Advertising Manager: Pilar Irribarra
Photographer • Distribution:Hermann KlassenAssistant Editor
Rosemary Hill Sarah Rutter
Natales - Torres del Paine Torres del Paine - NatalesAndescape Ph 412877
7.15 14.30
(Laguna Amarga) 15.00 19.45
No service May - Oct (Pudeto) 14.00 19.00
(Administration) 13.00 18.15
Gomez Ph 415700
7.15 14.30
(Laguna Amarga) 15.00 19.45
(Pudeto) 14.00 19.00
(Administration) 13.00 18.15
JB Ph 412824
7.30 14.30
(Laguna Amarga) 19.30
(Pudeto) 19.00(Administration) 18.30
Natales - Punta Arenas Punta Arenas - NatalesBus FernandezPh 411111
7.15 9.0013.00 14.3017.00 18.30 20.00
Bus Fernandez 8.30 13.00 14.30 17.00 18.30 20.00
Bus PachecoPh 414513
7.3010.00 18.00
Bus Pacheco 14.00 18.3019.30
Bus Sur Ph 411859
7.00 8.30 15.00 19.00
Bus Sur 9.00 13.00 15.00 19.00
Natales - El Calafate Natales - Ushuaia (direct)
Cootra Ph 412785
8.30 Bus Sur (tues, fri)
Ph 4118597.00Not May-Sept
Approximate travel times from Puerto Natales (allow for border crossings and tour connections within park)El Calafate 5 hrs TDP L. Amarga 2 hrs 30Punta Arenas 3 hrs TDP Pudeto 3 hrs 15Ushuaia 15 hrs TDP Admin 3 hrs 45
The Black Sheep is an independently and locally owned rag, inspired by life in Puerto Natales, Chile.
The soul of Patagonia. A big, warm, woolly thanks go out to all black sheep and the bear who helped make
this paper possible. Be the Sheep.
Trekking - Horseback Riding - Birdwatching - Photo Safari - Whale Watching - Kayaking
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Phone +56 61 412239Bulnes 299 Pto.Natales 02
er ra t i c rockAdventures in Patagonia
www.errat icrock.comph +56 61 410355
TTell your friends.Don’t tell the guidebooks.
Letter from the editor Rustyn Mesdag Alright guys! Good for you. If you are reading this, it means that you are in Patagonia in April. You have possibly seen the guidebooks and found yourselves here long after the `normal´ season. April is a great month here, less people on the trail, the weather is still holding up, and you get to see the colors in the park change. Snow is now starting to cover the peaks around Pto. Natales (which is how it looks most of the time during off season) and did I mention less people? Of course I did. Thats the big one. Less people. Those peskie guidebooks always taking about how things are done around here, from their head offices in where ever BigCityVille (things change around here weekly ). If you have not already figured it out, the season is not over! You guys here now are probably going to have a more unique experiance then if you had come during the so called Nov-Feb season. Well done! Good on ya! Okay, now, be ready for some colder weather, which means possible snow and cold rains. There is a very good chance that is stays blue and clear, but the tempeture will drop. The winters here get calmer then the summers. Less wind, less rain. More just super cold and blue sky. Shorter days, but sunny most of the time. In the morning, here in winter, you put on your down jacket and sunglasses, step outside to that friendly cold bite in your lungs... its great. The peaks all around are totally white and because the moisture in the air freezes completely, the veiws of Paine Grande and Glacier Balmaceda are incedible. Puerto Natales has a great ski-town feeling. Even though its not. Now as far as the skiing and snowboarding, there is endless back country action here, obviously, -but there are only a couple options for a ski resorts. There iis a little one right over the Argentine border, 20 minutes away, in Rio Turbio. The border crossing takes longer to get through than the trip to Agentina. Then, in Punta Arenas, there is another. But thats a three hour drive each way, and most of the time isnt worth it from here. Back country is where its at here. You have to go with a few days to spare, otherwise the three hour trip to the prime locations also makes it hard to go for just a day. It does make for some great Patagonia winter experiences. Unmatchable. Ask lo-cally for info, dont read the guidebooks. So guys, welcome to fall in Patagonia. Have a good time. Im out.
Bookings for Hosterias, Lodges, Shuttles, Navegation to Torres
del Paine and more...
Eberhard 595 • ph 56 61 413291 [email protected] 27
�How far is it to the park from here? From Natales, by bus, it takes about 2 - 2.5 hrs.What time do the buses leave in the morning? Most of the buses pick-up between 7 - 8am.Can the buses to the park pick me up from my hostel? Some do, it depends if your hostel is friendly with the bus company.How can I book a refugio? You need to get in contact with Vertice, Pathgone, Fantastico Sur and/or Andescape. How much does camping cost in the park? Camping costs 3.500 pesos per person, not per tent, at the privately run sites. The CONAF sites are free.So, I pay an entrance fee AND pay to camp? Yep, and don’t forget your bus ticket, mini shuttle or catamaran, as well - all in Pesos only. Which campsites are free? Los Guardas, Italiano, Británico, Japones, Camp Las Torres, Los Perros, Paso, Zappata, Pingo and Las Carretas.At what time do the stores open in the morning? Don’t count on the stores being open before 9:30am, even then…What about mid day? Between 12 and 3 you might as well nap, too.Where can I buy food for the park? There are three bigger supermarkets in town, the Magno located 1 block south from the Santiago Santander bank. The Don Bosco and Super Mix are both on the main streets of Baquedano and Bulnes.How do I contact the park’s Search and Rescue if something happens? There is no official Search and Rescue in the park, but any of the CONAF Ranger stations will help you.What are the winters like around here? Calm, blue, clear, freezing and beautiful. How cold does it get in the park at night? In the summer, not freezing, but it can still get close sometimes.Can I rent a tent and matress at the refugios?Yes, but you cant take them with you as you trek. This means that you can´t camp at any of the free campsites.´Is there a bus that goes to Calafate directly from Torres del Paine?Yes, it picks up at 5pm at Laguna Amarga. Call Onas for that transfer. It costs 35.000 from the park and from Pto. Natales it costs 10.000.What’s the weather going to be like for the next few days? Thats the forbidden question. But we put this But we put this one in just for fun! .... No, really, what’s the weather going to be like? I need to know what to pack! Plan for everything, but mostly cold. The weather changes constantly. How much does the catamaran to Pehoe cost in the park? The Catamaran costs 10.000 pesos per person, one way, 18.000 round trip.Is there food sold in the park? You can buy hot meals in the refugios. As far as buying camp food, you can find some staples at the bigger refugios, but it’s cheaper to buy all your food in town.Can I cook in the refugios? In the nicer, bigger refugios you can usually find a gas stove to use, but no real kitchen facilities.
Why do all the girls here wear those uniform mini skirts to school in such a cold and windy place? Another big mystery, but we are pretty sure it was a man’s idea.Are there any flights going in or out of that airstrip outside of town? They say it’s possible, but I have only seen a few planes there, mostly private.How much do the taxis cost? From 6am to 1am it’s 800 pesos. From 1am to 6am it’s 1.000 pesos. (Within city limits).How long does the trekking season last? Roughly from October to April, but it’s growing more every year. The truth is that it’s beautiful here all the time, the park is great in winter.Are there backpackers here in the winter? Not many in June, July and August... yet.What time is sunrise and sunset? It changes, of course, but the map you receive when you enter the park has some of that info on the back. When do the bars start hopping? If you’re really going to go out, and do it up right, don’t worry about starting until midnight... and don’t plan on coming home until breakfast.Are the times on the trail maps accurate? The times are pretty good on the CONAF map, depending on your physical condition. Some of the books seem to be a bit off though.Is it worth renting a car to get around intead of useing the buses?Depends on your budget and your destination. Public transportation is always a good ides when possible, but there is alot of Patagonia out there that has no pulic buses. To see those places, getting a few people to pitch in for a car can make for a unique experiance.Do I get a map when I enter the park? Yes. You can buy a nicer wall map in town.Do I need sunscreen in the park? Absolutely! The hole in the ozone wobbles right over us this time of year. It can and will cause you problems after a multi day trek in the park. The UV rays come through the clouds too, so don’t go light on the sun protection.Where can I buy white gas? The pharmacies carry clean white gas. You can start finding them in some of the outdoor and building material stores too. What’s up with all the military guys walking around town? There is a military base located right outside of town.Why do I get given a piece of paper every time I buy something? It´s the law, no joke.What’s up with all the dogs? Half of them are street dogs, half of them are owned but run free anyway. Together they make more street dogs. It’s a circle of life thing...Do I need to tie up my food in the park? Not really. But mice and/or a fox might get into your vestabule. It’s best to sleep with food in the tent, with you.Can you drink the water in the park? You bet! Best water in the world. Just make sure it’s fresh run off, no lake water or anything down stream from a camp or refugio.Is there anything fun to do here in town? The best free-day advice for Natales is go for a walk. Down the beach, hike on Dorotea,
Torres del Paine travellers ‘Q&A’sgo visit the cemetery on the top of the hill, rent a bike… that sort of thing. Don’t forget your camera. Why do I seem to understand LESS Spanish in Chile than anywhere else? Chileans down here talk really fast and with a lot of slang.Why is there so much garbage on the beach? That is a very good question. Is there a place to recycle my glass, plastic, or cardboard? Not yet. The Patagonia Foundation is getting the ball rolling though. They will recycle your batteries.Do I have to worry about making a reservation for the bus on my way back from TdP?No. There is almost always room, and they never leave anyone behind. They always work it out for you. ...and all the buses and all the boats meet up with each other perfectly, Crazy.Is it true that they are RAISING the enterance fee to the park?Yes, starting in the beginning of season 2006 / 2007. But if they do whats promised, the extra funds will go to better the park.
What’s up with me not being able to flush my toilet paper down the toilet? Do I really have to throw it in the waste basket!?
It depends on where you are. Sometimes its fine to flush it, but if it says not to, DONT!A bit gross and bizarre, I know, but the pipes from yester-year just cant handle it.If the weather is nice on the first day, should I go see the towers first?No. Any experienced climber, trekker or hiker will tell you to make a plan and stick to it. Trust fate with regards to the weather. Plan your trek before hand and go with it.
Your Park MapDont forget...
Your park map that you recieve at the entrance contains alot of useful informa-tion. On the map itself you will find av-erage trekking times from camp to camp, as well as the bus roads. On the backside of the map you will find a great elevation gain grid, distances in kilometers and a rating system.The reverse side of the map also has sun-rise and sunset times and info on flora and fauna....but oh yeah, it’s all in spanish.
A free englishinformation session is held everyday at 3pm at Erratic Rock. Come grab a cup of coffee or tea and find out about the park, transportation, equipment, food, buses, boats and programs.
Natales - Torres del Paine Torres del Paine - NatalesAndescape Ph 412877
7.15 14.30
(Laguna Amarga) 15.00 19.45
No service May - Oct (Pudeto) 14.00 19.00
(Administration) 13.00 18.15
Gomez Ph 415700
7.15 14.30
(Laguna Amarga) 15.00 19.45
(Pudeto) 14.00 19.00
(Administration) 13.00 18.15
JB Ph 412824
7.30 14.30
(Laguna Amarga) 19.30
(Pudeto) 19.00(Administration) 18.30
Natales - Punta Arenas Punta Arenas - NatalesBus FernandezPh 411111
7.15 9.0013.00 14.3017.00 18.30 20.00
Bus Fernandez 8.30 13.00 14.30 17.00 18.30 20.00
Bus PachecoPh 414513
7.3010.00 18.00
Bus Pacheco 14.00 18.3019.30
Bus Sur Ph 411859
7.00 8.30 15.00 19.00
Bus Sur 9.00 13.00 15.00 19.00
Natales - El Calafate Natales - Ushuaia (direct)
Cootra Ph 412785
8.30 Bus Sur (tues, fri)
Ph 4118597.00Not May-Sept
Approximate travel times from Puerto Natales (allow for border crossings and tour connections within park)El Calafate 5 hrs TDP L. Amarga 2 hrs 30Punta Arenas 3 hrs TDP Pudeto 3 hrs 15Ushuaia 15 hrs TDP Admin 3 hrs 45
April 2006
The nautical route to Torres del Paine
12
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The Legend of CalafateThis story tells about how the beautiful Calafate became a flower and turned into this famous legend.Before the conquerors arrived to colonize these lands of pampas, mountains, glaciers, fiords, and forest, two ethnic groups of the same origin live here: the Aonikenk or Tehuelches and the Selk`nam or Onas.One of the Aonikenk leaders had a beautiful daughter named Calafate. She had beautiful, big black eyes and blonde golden hair. He was very proud of his daughter.One day, she was walking around a beauti-ful place and then she saw a young hand-some Selk`nam. When their eyes found each other, they fell madly in love, knowing that their respective tribes would never accept
their love.But love is stronger than reasoning and usually in these cases love wins out. Right or wrong. Some snitchy, busy-body discovered their plans and reported to the Aonikenk leader. He thought that the evil spirit of “Gualicho” took possession of her daughter, pressing her to escape with the enemy of his tribe. Furious, he went to see the Chaman, to foil the escape of Calafate. The Cha-man bewitched her, turning Calafate into a bush, but at the same time allowing that her beautiful eyes see the place of her birth.Calafate, now bewitched as a bush, blooms every spring with yellow golden flowers, like her hair, and in January a dark fruit ripens reminding us of the beautiful eyes of the aonikenk girl.The young Selk`nam never find her beloved Calafate, so after seeking and looking after her for a long time, he died immersed in sadness. The Chaman, regretting the spell placed upon Calafate, and the sorrow that he helped cause to these young lovers, made it so that at the beginning of the ripening of the fruit of Calafate, it give purple fruit, remembering the heart of the beautiful young aonikenk.It is now said that everyone who eats a berry from the Calafate bush is touched by the spell of the young girl, just as the young Selk`nam, no matter how far from home, they will one day return to Patagonia.
For Black Sheep advertising call 412239 or [email protected]
Art Gallery and Jewlery 56 61 411461 Eberhard 318 Puerto Natales
07
�
April 2006
Patagonia’s Backbone By Sarah Rutter
The sound of thumping footsteps approaching, the scrape and snap of branches against fabric, then he appears, red-faced with exertion, in shorts and a T-shirt irrespective of the weather, an impossibly large and unwieldy backpack towering above his head, half running the trail to the next campsite. Meet one of the many porters working in the Torres del Paine National Park. With the growth of organised tours and in-creased accessibility to all ages and abilities, porters have become an integral part of park life. And of all the different employment opportuni-ties in the park, theirs has to be the most demanding and challenging. The first porters started working in the park as far back as the 1960’s, accompanying the climbing expeditions, which carried in the huge amounts of equip-ment and supplies necessary to set up camp for several weeks at a time. Porters are still frequently employed by such expeditions which head off the beaten tracks and up into the moun-tain regions, where access is granted by special permission only. Today, however, the majority of porters work with groups doing the circuit, the challenging 8-day hike around the Paine Massif, in which a tent, cooking equipment and food are necessary extra weight as refugio services are few and far between. Whilst you won’t get much out of them if you try to talk to them on the trails, the porters are generally a friendly bunch and it is worth chatting to them at the campsites at the end of the day and enquiring further than the standard question “How much does your back-pack weigh?” So let’s start with another basic question: If the work is so damned hard, why would anyone want to do it in the first place? Willy Guz-man, from Punta Arenas, began working this season as a porter to earn money to pay for his university course in Criminal Sciences in Punta Arenas. Still, he hopes to continue working in the park even after he has finished his studies, as he values the park itself and the freedom and break from routine it offers. Juan Miranda, a
Natalino who is working his second season, got into portering because he needed a job, but en-joyed his first season enough to come back this year. Jonatan Barrientos worked as a seasonal park ranger with CONAF, but is happy now working as a porter as it allows him to see more of the park. “I felt confined to one place, doing the same things all season”, he says. “And por-tering isn’t as difficult as everyone says”.Willy, Juan and Jonatan all work for “Nomade”, one of the main providers of porter services in
Puerto Natales. Perhaps slightly influenced by their boss standing next to them whilst they were being interviewed, they all agreed that their working conditions
are good. They earn on average $15.000 per day they work, and have all their expenses in the park paid, such as food, campsite fees and the entrance fee. They do have to carry their own food, tent and other equipment, which can weigh up to 15kgs, as well as their share of the equipment, supplies and personal belongings of the organised group. So in answer to that stan-dard question, they generally carry 25 – 30kgs.That’s some weight to carry on the park’s trails which rise and fall quite steeply on occasions.
One former porter reckons that two seasons is the average length of time in the job, as the toll this load takes on the body is significant, particularly on the knees and back. Tak-ing into account the physical costs of the work and the expense
medical remedies for worn out joints, he sug-gests that porters earn very little in real terms. One commonly held view is that there should be more regulation of the work of portering, with set limits for the weight carried which are then adhered to. The average length of time portering is also quite short because many move on to other work in the park. A common aim is to work as a guide or guide’s assistant. Portering is a way to get to know the park and make the contacts
necessary to access other types of work, which generally offer better pay and are less physically demanding. And therein lies another issue for the porters. The fact that the average time on the job is short means that there are a lot of new faces every season. These new porters have to learn the ropes and also have to learn to respect the park itself. “ They should get to know the park better at the start”, says Jonatan of new porters. “Some have no idea of the work they are going to do, for example that there are long stretches between camps, they’re not used to carrying the weight and they don’t have the right equip-ment. Sometimes they have a bad experience and don’t finish the job.” And if you’re working in a team sharing the weight, quitting part way through has a serious impact on your colleagues. Juan comments “ The image of the porter has to be improved. They put us all in the same sack, but the new ones who don’t know anything give the rest of us a bad name.” “They look at us like we’re below them” says Willy, “but it’s not worth worrying yourself about it, even though it makes you angry at times.”Likely there are porters who take the short cuts
rather than sticking to the marked trails, porters who leave rubbish behind in the camps or who don’t treat the park with the respect it deserves, but these are not the majority. Perhaps more regulation and organisation between the porters could result in a code of conduct to address the few who give the many a bad name.When asked what would make their work better for them, they ask for better treatment and to be valued more for their work, to feel proud to work as porters in park. Without doubt, the ser-vice provided by the porters is invaluable, help-ing many visitors to experience areas of the park that would otherwise be beyond their reach, or just making the experience all the more enjoy-able by taking the weight off the visitor’s back. They deserve the respect and appreciation for the tough conditions they endure, and right of way on the trails so they can set down that heavy load as quickly as possible.
Porteadores By Alexis Tapia Cruz
Una fuerza laboral que mueve un parque
Con una visión interna los “porteadores”, algunos conocidos, otros de caras nuevas, son una realidad en el parque, que cada año se ha ido incrementando, con buenos y malos momentos, de caminatas largas y agotadoras, azotadas por las inclemencias del clima que son conocidas por todos los que trabajamos en estos hermosos parajes. Si bien no están en algún tipo de asociación que les permite organizarse mejor, hay algu-nos de ellos que esperan y como pequeñas “microempresas”, cada uno de ellos están cumpliendo con las necesidades del momento en el parque. La estigma que llevan de malos hábitos es fuerte. Es por eso que urge una asociación para darle el respeto a un trabajo duro del cual no pueden prescindir las compañías de turismo y también escaladores. Solo es cosa de encontrarles por los senderos y te darás cuenta de quienes son: en sus shorts y poleras con manga corta, con una mochila enorme, generalmente corriendo y con una sonrisa agotada. Siempre te preguntaras ¿cuanto peso lleva? ¡Uf, es harto! Es por eso que de-berían regularizarse entre ellos en un todo, reglamentado y sus rodillas y espaldas a la larga se los agradecerán. Las empresas de turismo que hacen uso de esta fuerza laboral que mueve un parque deberían exigirles y no optar por lo más barato y contratar sus servicios sin un seguro mínimo de salud. Ya las hay pero faltan, solo así se le dará la real importancia a este trabajo. He visto en cinco años a muchas personas porteando, incluso guías, personal logístico de campamentos y mujeres. En realidad, es un trabajo no mal pagado, tentador en ocasiones, así por ejemplo cuando viene algún tipo de filmación como comerciales que son por poco tiempo, traen mucho equipo y es allí donde el porteador tome más importancia. Son jornadas extensas, extenuantes, pero así también es el dinero que se recibe. Creo que en el parque hay personas muy conocidas en este trabajo por todos aquellos que trabajamos el él. Sería mezquino al mencionar algún nombre. También sus anécdotas tra-bajando son alegres, si quieres divertirte y pasar un buen rato, conversa con ellos cuando les encuentres descansando ya en cada camping. Para terminar, solo quiero agradecer al Black Sheep por preocuparse de ellos, tomar la visión diferente y mostrársela al público, dando a conocer así un noble trabajo.
www.fortalezapatagonia.clph. 410595
trekkingkayaking
guides
06
BIG FOOTSince 1999 running your adventure www.bigfootpatagonia.com BORIES 206.PUERTO NATALES [email protected]
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get more friends together for special discounts for groups!Ask in our offices or in our mountain hut in Grey
�Patagonia.
The name alone quickens the pulse and sets the imagination in motion. Patagonia. It has been a place of adventure, trial and discovery for hundreds of years. A truly unique region, Patagonia has both an astounding environment and an equally engaging history. Dictated mostly by the accumulation, movement and ablation of ice, Patagonia boasts some of the world’s most sculpted landscapes. From the Torres Del Paine to Los Cuernos Mt. Fitzroy and Cerro Torre, huge granite towers shroud the area in an air of grandeur.
Dramatic fjords divide the west coast of Patagonia into an array of inlets and islands created by the cutting power of glacial melt. Patagonia’s latitude between 39 and 55 degrees south, combined with the cold temperatures influenced by the Humboldt Current off of Chile’s coast, have caused Patagonia to develop the largest ice sheets in the southern hemisphere today outside of Antarctica. These ice sheets dominated the landscape periodically for thousands of years and their consequent movement has chiseled out the finer features of the region. The stark natural beauty of the area, combined with the unrelenting weather, has made this place famous around the globe. It is a place in which to truly observe the awesome power of nature.
The dramatic scenery found in this region of the world is coupled with an equally interesting history. The names of the early explorers of Patagonia read like a who’s who of the international mountaineering community. From the famous English explorers H.W. Tillman and Eric Shipton, to the Italians Toni Egger and Cesare Maestri, and countless others, Patagonia has drawn some of the biggest names in climbing to its unique, isolated landscape.
With serious climbing expeditions dating back to at least 1914, it took some years before the monster towers of Patagonia were climbed. The 1950s may have been the biggest decade for Patagonian exploration and climbing. In 1952, the famous Mt. Fitzroy saw its first ascent by Lionel Terray and Guido Magnone.
Famed English explorer H.W. Tillman completed the first traverse of the South Patagonia Ice field in 27 days in 1955 to 1956, covering 60 kilometers. Eric Shipton, another notable Englishman, completed three large expeditions to the area in 1958, collecting a large number of plant species from remote areas. 1959 saw the now controversial first ascent of Cerro Torre by Italians Cesare Maestri and Toni Egger. Egger died in an avalanche after reportedly reaching the summit. Maestri claimed that the camera was taken away with Egger. Although Egger’s body was found in subsequent years, no camera or any other evidence of their reaching the summit has ever been produced. With well over 20 attempts to repeat this route, no one to this day has been able to conquer the upper north face, adding to the doubt surrounding the first ascent. Also in 1959, Shipton completed another expedition near the southern ice field, rediscovering the Lautaro volcano, which had been forgotten for 30 years.
Subsequent years saw more and more exploration and first ascents by Shipton and his peers. Patagonia has now become an international destination for any serious climber looking for long alpine routes. The weather is most often the limiting factor of the climbs. First ascents are still being seen every year, not only on new routes on previously summited peaks, but also on peaks that have never before been climbed. The development of Patagonia as a testing ground for up-and-coming climbers will be interesting to watch in the years to come, as more and more routes are added to climbers’ tick lists.
The climbing history of Patagonia, however, is only a small part of the region’s identity. First reached by Westerners in the 1520s, Patagonia has always been a place of adventure and wild imagination. Magellan’s famous circumnavigation of the globe brought Patagonia into contact with the rest of the world. Magellan’s crew, the few that survived anyhow, would spread the fame of the Patagones, or the big-feet. The Patagonian giants, taller than a galleon, clad with animal skins and speaking in strange tongues, were sought after for
many years by any sailor coming through the straights near Tierra del Fuego. In reality, however, pre-contact times saw four major tribes of indigenous people inhabiting this region. The Aonikenk, the Kaweskar, the Yamana and the Selk’nam lived in the different regions of Patagonia and Tierra Del Fuego. Unfortunately paralleling the story of North American
native tribes, these indigenous people also faced constant relocation to various reservations, as well as epidemic diseases that severely reduced their populations. Some early anthropological studies, however, were able to document the elaborate ceremonial lives of some of these tribes.
Where are we again? By Jon Shea
25
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April 2006
For Bookings call 56-61-414168Puerto Natales, Chile
www.weskar.cl / [email protected]
31
A few weeks ago, the third edition of PATAGONIA EXPEDITION RACE finished. For the organizers, it was a very challenging race becuse of the poor weather conditions that were recorded for February. For the racers, it was a unique experience – they explored isolated and remote places untouched by humans; they felt the force of the Patagonian wind as they rode their bikes; they carried their kayaks over the same portage routes that have been used by the indigenous people here for thousands of years; and they have walked, in one single trekking stage, for three or four days without seeing another human being as they passed through a completely pristine landscape. They raced for eleven days. All of the details about this last edition of the race are available on www.patagoniaexpeditionrace.com , where you can also see and download more than 1000 photos from the race. In this third edition of the race, first place was taken by the experienced team BUFF, from Spain/Germany; second place went to team ALBERTA ADVENTURE RACING of Canada, and third place to FEED THE MACHINE/IBEX
Patagonia Expedition Race �00�
from USA/UK. This is the second time that Spain and Canada have finished in the top three places, and for the USA it is the third consecutive time placing in the top three. Other countries that have been in leading positions in previous editions of this race are New Zealand, France, Uruguay, Sweden and Russia. This month, the organizers of PATAGONIA EXPEDITION RACE have posted the official website and in other media the details about the first winter edition. The organizers of PATAGONIA EXPEDITION RACE have posted (on the official website and in other media) the details about the first winter edition, an international sporting event that will be a landmark during the southern hemisphere’s winter. For the moment, we have only some information: the race will be over six days, and each day will be a new stage that may include one or more disciplines, and will have a length of between 7 and 12 hours. Teams will be composed of two people, and will be classified as follows: mixed pairs, male pairs, female pairs. Good luck racers!
Another famous expedition to come to Patagonia was headed by an ambitious captain of the British navy. Robert Fitzroy took two trips to Patagonia aboard the Beagle. Although Fitzroy played a large role in the surveying of much of Patagonia and in the development of modern day meteorology, the Beagle is perhaps most well known for its second journey, when a young man named Charles Darwin accompanied the ship as a naturalist.
Many sailors would come to see the rugged coastline of Patagonia as the straights near Tierra del Fuego made it an important trading route. Being one of the most viable trade routes to and from the west coast of North America, Punta Arenas, established in 1848, quickly became an important port town during the California gold rush. It was however not Californian gold, but the “white gold of Magellan” that brought true prosperity to the region. Sheep were introduced to the area between 1852 and 1877, and with the vast plains of eastern Patagonia, wool quickly became the primary product of the area. The wealth of the city is seen in the various mansions, artwork and delicate architecture of Punta Arenas. The wealth of the city declined, however, almost as quickly as it developed. As a port city, Punta Arenas relied heavily on trade. Ships from all over the world would come through, leaving goods from around the world and taking away raw materials such as wool. With the opening of the Panama Canal, however, this region was quickly forgotten as a trade route.
Today, many of the cities in Patagonia rely heavily on tourism. Towns like Puerto Natales, only miles from the entrance to Torres del Paine National Park, cater to largely seasonal crowds who come to walk and wonder at the rugged mountains of this famous part of the globe. The governments of both Chile and Argentina have both recognized the value the unique region and have taken steps to ensure its preservation. Nahuel Huapi National Park in Argentina, created in 1922, was the first national park established in South America. It occupies 785,000 hectares in Andean forest and steppe region of Patagonia and exemplifies the mountainous environment characteristic of Patagonia. Los Glaciares National Park is another
important Argentine park, covering 600,000 hectares. Designated a world heritage site in 1981 by the United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization, Los Glaciares is home to not only Mt. Fitzroy, but also the Perito Moreno glacier, with an 80 meter ice cliff that has become a huge tourist attraction. In Chile, Torres Del Paine National Park, established in 1959, is the most popular of the Patagonian parks. In 1978, UNESCO declared this park a world biosphere reserve, and it is home to the famous Torres del Paine and Cuernos del Paine. Laguna San Rafael National Park is another important national park, located on Chile’s coast. It alone encompasses more that 1.7 million hectares and is home to the tallest peak in the southern Andes, Mt. San Valentin, at 4,058 meters.
The austere but astounding landscape of Patagonia has attracted many conservation groups. Perhaps the most recognized of these groups is Patagonia Ltd., a clothing company. Started by world famous climber Yvonn Chouinard, Patagonia pledges 1 percent of its profits to conservation efforts in the area. After retiring in 1993 from her CEO position with the Patagonia clothing company, Kristine Tompkins moved to Patagonian Chile. In 2000, she founded the Patagonia Land Trust (PLT), now known as Conservacion Patagonica, in order to raise funds to protect natural areas in Patagonia. PLT has saved over 1.4 million acres in Chile’s Valdivian rainforest and Argentina’s Esteros wetlands, and in 2002, made possible the designation of Argentina’s first coastal national park, Monte Leon, with a 1.7 million dollar donation. PLT currently has several other projects underway to preserve the natural beauty and biodiversity of Patagonia.
As the tourism industry grows in the area, the governments of both Chile and Argentina will be faced with new issues surrounding the preservation of Patagonia’s unique environment. The various conservation groups, combined with the international outdoor community’s interests, will no doubt play a large role in shaping the future of this distinct region.
cafe + retail ph 410520 eberhard 226-C
locally produced gourmet cheese, Chilean wines & homemade brown bread
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� Patagonia’s cold sun by Herman Klassen
04
Most of us when planning our trip to Patagonia, are concerned about the high amounts of UV-B radiation. It’s true that the ozone layer is getting thinner and thinner every year because the impact that human activities produce in the modern cycle of life.Here in Patagonia, you have to take care of your skin and eyes. As we are not located in the Equator, the sunrays reach the earth in an angular way, not vertically. This means that the radiation stays longer in the atmosphere and come to you from a lower point on the horizon. Consequently, the amount of UV-B radiation that penetrates this protecting layer is more important than the Dobson units, which measures the thickness of the ozone layer. The famous ´hole in the ozone´is located mostly above Antartica but overlaps into Patagonia during part of the year. Protecting your skin and eyes is something to take seriously while in southern Chle. This radiation is higher in Magallanes during spring, but it does not reach the levels to which people from Santiago are exposed during summer. The radiation rate registered in Santiago during summer is equal to 9 microwatts per cm². As for the situation of Punta Arenas, the radiation rate in winter is equal to 8 microwatts per cm², in summer to 5.7 microwatts per cm², in spring it reaches 3.2 microwatts per cm², but it may vary from day to day, reaching summer highest levels. When this happens, people from Magallanes are put on the red alert, as during the past ten years, there had not been such unexpected variations. It is advisable to use, (factor 15) sun creams, in great quantities on the face and neck. If you use it in low quantities, for instance a half spoon dose, it would be equivalent to use a (factor 4) sun cream. So now, buy a good sun protector and go out there to enjoy the marvelous views that nature offers only in Patagonia.
The penguin connection.
Downtown Punta Arenas · Magallanes 619 · www.aonikenk.com
Call 221982
Billed as the southernmosttrekking opportunity in the world, the rugged Dientes circuit on the Isla Navarino is miles beyond an ordinary trekking experience.
For 53 km the route winds through an other worldly landscape of mountains broken from the floor of the ocean, where the andes crum-ble into the antarctic plate, where tenuous passes from one valley to the next defy truly staggering winds and where spartan vegeta-tion clings to a precarious existence between the punishing climate and the persistent ma-nipulations of the introduced beaver. For the serious trekker, the five day Dientes circuit is a chance to experience a unique terrain at what is literally the last scrap of land before the legendary Cape Horn and Antarctic sea. And while the route offers many worthy expe-riences, like awesome vistas that stretch as far as the Cape Horn straits, it is also impressive for what it lacks, like crowded trails, clearly defined paths and over crowded refugios. In fact, there are no refugios on the route. there is no entrance fee to pay, trekkers are only required to check in with the carabineros in Puerto Williams. Then it is just 3 kms of roads from the tiny village of Puerto Williams and a good possibility you will see no one else in the course of the circuit. The dientes circuit is relatively new, developed in the early 90´s by lonely planet trekking guide author Clem Lindemayer. For his efforts a few of the more prominent peaks along the circuit have been named after him. Cierro Clem in particular makes an impressive profile and serves as an important landmark. No doubt because of the difficulty of the route and the distance of Isla Navarino from the beaten path, the dientes circuit receives a fraction of the annual visitors of Chile´s better known treks. The route was marked with the Chilean numbered trail marker system in early 2001, but it is still far from a well mar-ked path. The dientes trekker needs to be self reliant and good at route finding. The 38 trail points are spread over a 53 km route, with four significant passes to cross and a myriad maze of beaver ponds and dams to negotiate in the valleys between. It is also strongly advi-sed to follow the route from Puerto Williams, as the markers are only painted on one side. Since the markers are cairns, or rock piles, individual trail markers are often difficult to distinguish from their surroundings without
the red signage painted on to mark the route. Weather is also a strong factor, particu-lary the strength of the winds that sweep up from the white continent and make the passes, especially the final pass to surmoun, Paso Vir-ginia, very dangerous. Blasts of wind strong enough to knock a heavily loaded trekker from their feet are not uncommon and come without warning. The dientes circuit is broken into five stages, each stage requiring around five hours to complete.
With the long daylight hours of the southern hemisphere summer, some trekkers might be tempted to combine two stages into one day. While it is possible to do the circuit in four days, it would involve a day with two passes to surmount or a very long final day, descending from the nearly 900 meter PAso Virginia back to sea level over a distance of 23 kms. The route markers end more than 300 meters above sea level, looking down on Bahia Virginia, and from there the trekker must negotiate through the cow patures and calafate bushes to the coastal road and final 8 km´s of pavement back to Puerto Williams. Passing trucks will often stop for tre-kkers on the final stretch, otherwise it is about a two hour walk back to Puerto Williams. Getting to Isla Navarino is part of the adventure in itself. The patagonian airline company DAP flies a 20 odd seat twin otter from Punta Areanas to Puerto Williams daily in summer. The flight over Tierra del Fuego and the straits of magellan is incredi-bly scenic and oddly enough, the least expensive option. There are now however other options. Though more expensive than flying it is possible to travel by boatfrom Ushuia across the Beagle channel to Puerto Navarino and then travel the 50 odd km´s of coa-stal road east to Puerto Williams. For the truly intrepid traveller, the Punta Arenas based Trans-bordadora Austral Broom operates a once a week passenger ferry to Puerto Williams, a 30 hour trip through the straits of magellan and along the Beagle Channel. Though spartan in accomoda-tions and service, the passing scenery of hanging glaciers andmountains that float on water truly convey an end of the world sensation.
Dientes Circuit Review by J Williams
The one that started it allph. 240104or 226239Punta Arenas, Chile
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April 2006
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Trekking - Horseback Riding - Birdwatching - Photo Safari - Whale Watching - Kayaking
Remembering Henry Everding
by Linda Dugger-Everding
Henry Everding 1966 - 2005
by Matt Demey
Last year on February 19th I received a phone call from my husbands climbing partner Cliff. He had just gotten down from the Torres del Paine and was calling to tell me that my husband had been killed by a rock fall while hiking down near the North Piney Tower. They had only climbed the tower part way before coming down being too cold to go on. Cliff had spent nearly 2 hours comforting his friend and long time partner before my husband Henry Everding died at the base of the towers, never having regained consciousness. Cliff choked over his words when he phoned me telling me that he was walkingin front of Henry and heard something loud, like a crack of lightening behind him and when he spun around, he saw my husband falling to his knees, catching him before he fell. Cliff was able to tell by the damage to the helmet that my husband was wearing that it must have been rock fall, though he never saw or heard anything prior to the loud single crack. It was an indescribable ordeal as I traveled with my sister and my father in law to this land I had never ventured into, my goal to bring my husband home. Robert Pope of the US Embassy in Chile was one of the first people who met us in Santiago. Robert had called me shortly after Cliff had to notify me of the accident, not knowing Cliff had already notified me. He and his wife helped us negotiate many language barriers as none of us spoke any Spanish. The Chilean authorities in Santiago, as well as, the people at customs and the people of the airlines all did their best and even more than we could have ever expected to get us onto flights that were overbooked and to move us quickly to the front of lines and through customs. We kept hearing that it would be impossible for us to make the Lan flight to
I will always remember my first trip to Patagonia. The first time I laid eyes on this remarkable landscape was February 2006. My friends and I traveled to South America from the United States for a very somber reason; we lost a close friend in an accident the year before. Henry Everding was killed by rock fall while descending the rock slabs below the North Paine tower. His death was tragic and heartbreaking for everyone who knew and loved him. Henry was one of the rare individuals that touched the lives of everyone he came in contact with. Those of us who were privileged enough to know him on a personal level are better people because of it.
The mood of the group on the trip to Chile was one of anticipation and distress, we did not know what to expect once we arrived. It was a larger group, six of us in all, and we were all counting on each other for support in was going to prove to be a very difficult and emotional time.
Punta Arenas as our reservations were somehow never confirmed, yet the next moment the ticket agent had made the impossible happen. We were so impressed by all of this, but then when we got to Puerto Natales we were met by Hernan Jofre, one of the most helpful of all the people we could have been blessed with. Hernan had a van ready for us at the airport in Punta Arenas, and we were driven to meet him at his climbing shop Antares. Hernan had been in the park during the fire that had broken out when my husbands partner Cliff had come down to report Henry’s accident. Hernan, who had helped Henry and Cliff with
their climbing permits, immediately did everything in his power to help Cliff with the questions that the Carabineros had to have answered, and with getting a helicopter involved in the recovery. He then got a team together for Cliff to go back and try to get Henry as he needed to be moved to a place where the helicopter could recover him. This was when Cliff met Ro and Rustyn who would help in so many ways. There were others who helped, whose names I don’t recall, but without them nothing would have been possible. I think what amazed me the most was how every person we met who knew about the accident wanted to help. Hernan did hours of paperwork, phone calls, running around town getting required items and organizing everything from hotels, rides, advice, the medical exam and even the cremation contact; Rustyn loaned equipment and cold weather gear that we hadn’t known we would need to hike into the area where Henry was; Ro became our interpreter, mediator, and kept us laughing during the most trying and frustrating times. They became part of the team who hiked into the Torres and helped us return Henry to his home. We had to wait hours, and then days to
get into the park as it was closed to all during the fire. The park officials were wonderful, letting us go in when they could and evacuating us back out when they had to during the fire. They did their very best and we could not properly thank them not speaking their language well enough. This sort of thing, by the way would have never been allowed in the United States. During an accident, the Search and Rescue usually take over, and with a fire; we would have been kept many miles away. The helicopter pilots also were amazing in their undaunted determination to wait out the wind and wait for a window to fly into the Valley of the Silence. The area was constantly in danger of being taken over by fire, the fire smoked out their visibility and the wind was relentless, sometimes blowing us right off our feet as we hiked up to Chileno. I cannot tell you how important it was to me that everyone seemed to have such compassion and courage for us, to keep us going in the face of such adversity. That was my promise to this place when we were finally able to get Henry out was to bring some of his ashes back to the place that took his life. I did that this year with my 5 friends on February 15th, Henry was returned to the Valley of the Silence. We also wanted to gift some of Henry’s climbing gear to Hernan for a school of climbing he is trying to develop for the children of Puerto Natales. Again on our trip here Hernan helped us to negotiate our travels, and Rustyn with his partner Bill at Erratic Rock helped us with gear we needed and other advice. This is an amazing town, with amazing people and the climbing community should be very proud of their skill and humanity, they seem to be the
pulse of this place and it is obvious they love it and are making it a better place to live by all their energy.
Once we arrived in Parque Nacional Torres del Paine I was quickly hypnotized with the absolute beauty and tangible presence of the area. The sheer rock faces, the remoteness and as I later learned, the relentless wind and abrupt storms that sweep the landscape were only some of the aspects of area that captivated me. Despite the overpowering physical impact of the area it has a certain loneliness to it.
As we made the hike into camp Torres I was continuously impressed by the landscape and the overall feeling of the area. It wasn’t until we hiked past Japanese camp and into the Valley of the Silence that the unforgiving and sometimes cruel nature of Patagonia fully revealed itself to me. All of a sudden it became overwhelming clear why it was such a difficult ordeal to retrieve Henry’s remains from the area the year before. The solitude was tremendous and view awe-inspiring. When we finally arrived at the base of the Torres I was overcome by a vast sense
of mortality as I saw where my friend lost his life. The towers looming in the background making you feel very small and insignificant. As I stared at the rock slabs where Henry died I began thinking of all the places I had been with him, all of the experiences we shared, of all I had learned from him, and I cried. I then realized that everyone was here for the same reason, we all loved Henry. For some reason this made his death seem a little less tragic. Because of Henry we were all now a closer group of friends, he would have liked that.We all gathered together and shared our thoughts and feelings about Henry and spread his ashes in the wind, each one of us feeling a profound sense of loss. As everyone started leaving the area I decided to stay for a little while by myself. I sat under a large rock and could not look back at the Torres. Instead, I decided to look out over the valley. As I was looking at the peaks in front of me, the Fortress and the Shield, it occurred to me that this was probably the last thing that my friend had seen. This helped
ease the pain of his loss just a little because I knew how much Henry truly loved wild places like this. The view he would have had of these astounding peaks must have filled him with a sense of wonder and happiness. This reminded me of a quote from Edward Abbey, “The fear of death follows from the fear of life. A man who lives fully is prepared to die at any time”. This is how our friend lived, fully. Seeing his last perspective set my mind at ease a little bit. As I left the Valley I never looked back at the Torres, instead I chose to keep looking forward.
We all miss Henry terribly. Visiting Patagonia was helpful for all of us, each in their own way. Perhaps one day I will come back to climb some of the peaks that so captivated me, and if that happens I will certainly be thinking of Henry.
Photos by Cliff Leight
Decending from the North Tower
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LA REPIZZA BEER PIZZAS SANDWICHES SALADS PASTAS
10AM to 12AM Blanco Encalada 294 410361
05
10 Puerto Natales Food Guide24
Bories 314Ph +56 61 411834
Entertaining table games ...where you can play blackjack, karaoke, international bar, lots, dice,
roulette, poker and more. In addition you can play a variety of slot machines
without breaking the bank...
Enjoy the Puerto Natales nightlife
Looking for a bite?
When we travel one of the most gratifying parts of the adventure is to try new flavors and different kinds of food, some times very different to the ones we find at home. During your stay in Puerto Natales, you can try and enjoy many restaurants with a huge variety of meals. In Patagonia the most common meal is lamb. It is famous throughout the whole world,
because the meat is organic and full of flavor. Two good places to enjoy a patagonian style lamb are La Parrillada de Don Jorge and Asador Patagónico, both around the main Plaza. Also in the plaza, you find La Casa de Pepe, specialized in chilean cousin, try the humitas, made of corn. For Pizzas the place to go is La Mesita Grande, “the new kid in town”. They prepare gourmet style pizzas, cooked in a wooden mud oven. For the veggies, the alternative is El Living and Aquaterra. El Living, in front of the Plaza, offers a huge variety of vegetarian preparations. Also good coffee and selected teas. Aquaterra, is know for their good salads and vegetarian dishes. You have to try the Tallarín Saltado, prepare with rice noodles. Also good tea and gourmet coffee. For Chocolates, the place is Patagonia Dulce, home made Chocolate and ice creams.Good coffee and tea. If you prefer seafood, the place to go is El Maritimo. A variety of fishes and mussels in front of the sea looking to Seno de Ultima Esperanza Mountains. If you’re looking for sandwiches or hamburgers, you have to try La Repizza or Massay. In Magallanes is very common to put avocado to sandwiches, give it a try. Angelica´s Restaurant is also new in Natales. They prepare excellent Mediterranean style food with meats and sea products from the rest of the country. Desserts here are “muy buenos”.
Time for a drink?When your stomach is full and your heart happy, maybe you want to go out for a beer or something strong.In Natales, the two places are Chile and El Bar de Ruperto. In both you find good drinks and something light to eat if so much alcohol makes you hungry again. You never know when the tables go to the side and the dancing starts. Aguaterra has a 2 for 1 Happy Hour between 6pm - 10pm. Emporio de la Pampa is the definate spot for good wines.Finally, if you like discotheques, Natales have two. Milodón and El Templo, where you can dance until five. We recommend you to go in groups, because gringos here are not common.
Pisco SourEach time you visit a different country, one question always comes to mind: “What’s the food like there?”In Chile, the food is not sophisticated, but it is delicious. There is a wide variety of meats, including lamb, pork, beef, fish, shellfish, and poultry. If you’re lucky enough, you’ll taste guanaco, ñandu, boar, or deer. Of course, you’ll find these dishes in non-traditional restaurants or at family houses or hostels. You’ll also find good, strong drinks. The Chileans have a pisco culture, which means they are very keen on making drinks based on pisco.
Pisco Sour3 parts pisco 1 part lemon juice Icing sugar 1 egg white Ice cubes.Blend the pisco and lemon juice. While blending, add icing sugar to taste, the egg white, and the ice cubes. In a minute, it will be ready to drink. In some families, it is almost a tradition to welcome guests with a toast of pisco sour, so go for it
and enjoy!
Pebre Chacaneitorby Miguel Angel Chacana
Perhaps during your stay in Chile you have noticed a piquant sauce served with your meals at restaurants. Try making it yourself with the following recipe:
1⁄2 kg. chili cream (red) 1 cup minced onion.1 cup minced coriander.1 spoonful fine minced garlic1 spoonful red pepper (cut in little pieces)1 spoonful green pepper (cut in little pieces)Salt, oregano, black pepper and powdered cumin to taste 3 spoonfuls marigold oil.wine vinegar
Mix all the ingredients in bowl, adding wine vinegar till the sauce gets a soft slippery texture. Store in a plastic or glass container, in a fresh, dry place or in the fridge. Use to spread on bread, sandwich, as a dip for vegetable crudites, all kinds of meat, fish, soups, cheese, and many other meals.WARNING: Avoid leaving the sauce within reach of children under 12, in case of accidentally eating, in this case just sip natural water and breathe normally.
Local favorites
Anuncia, vende, compra, permuta!
en avisos clasificados “Black Sheep”Restaurantes, hostales, guias, internet y otros
Tarifa Hasta 10 palabras $100010 - 20 palabras $200020 - 30 palabras $3000
Llámanos al 412239 o envía tus datos y avisos
clasificados al email [email protected]
foR SALEREI Touring bike Novaro - 24 gears, Soft Ride shocks in handlebar & seat. Ready for touring with front & rear fully waterproof Ortlieb pan-niers, $600 US ... [email protected]
Jeep Cherokee 1993 model, runs great. $2,000,000. Vero 411851 •
Gaitors - climbing or trekking. Outdoor Research, new and used, alll sizes. 15.000 clp ph 410355 •
Magellan GPS Sportmap $120.000 Ph. 09-4499075 •
Samson Movistar cellphone with 20.000 of talk time ph. 411851 •
LoCAL SERvICESHolistic Massage - Barros Arana 176 - ph. 413552
We clean sleeping bags, blankets. Large load $3000. Marcelina 411491 •
Taxi Service. $800. Lucas 411491 •
Radio taxis ‘El Milodon’ SA - ph. 410426 24 hour service in & out of Puerto Natales
Spanish teacher, experienced ph 410317 •
Comfort and relax. “Hot Stone Therapy”. $26.000 1 hour. Ph 412239 or 97613736. Bulnes 299 •
Patagonian Tours - Internet service, money exchange, photocopies, private transportation - Blanco Encalada 183 - ph. 413834 - www.pata-gonian.com - [email protected]
INTERNETCyberplay -Baquedano 480, ph 414229 •
Internet - Bulnes 463 - ph 410697 - Open all year 10am-12pm
ACCoMMoDATIoNHostel Natales Ladrilleros 209 ph +56-61-410081 www.hostelnatales.cl Buffet breakfast - Spacious room - Internet
Hostel for couples - All double rooms, private bath, breakfast in bed, cable tv, free bikes, kitchen facilities, rental discounts, english sppoken. 25.000clp Puerto Natales - 414317 for reserva-tions
Kawashkar Hostel 414533 - Clean, Close and Hip • Dorm 6.000 or Crashpad 2.500 • Blanco Encalada 754 • Puerto Natales, Patagonia, Chile •
VIP Backpacker, PUNTA ARENAS / DOWN-TOWN, Aiken Hosel / for backpackers wanting the best quality offered / dorms with shared bathrooms, cooking facilities, central heating, internet, T.V. lounge (cable & dvd). Errazuriz #612, PH:222629.
Hostal Dickson. Private and shared bathrooms.Bulnes 307, ph 411871 [email protected] •
Hostel Alma Gaucha - Clean, close and with breakfast ph 410043 •
Magallania Hostel ph. 414950 - Tomas Rogers 255 - [email protected] - accomadations with breakfast
Hostal Ganesha - Arturo Prat 367 - ph 08-7977466 ganesha_residencial@ hotmail.com - Double and triple rooms with shared bathroom & dorms. Breakfast included - Open all year - 24 hour reception.
CLASIfICADoS EN ESPAñoLHadas y duendes del bosque patagónico. Con-sultas y pedidos al 415285. Barros Arana 233 Pto. Natales •
Alondra Joyas - Lapislazuli, piedras de coleccion, meteoritos, minerales, joyas a pedido. Hecho a mano. Blanco Encalada 216 Fono 09-7102301
WANTEDWe buy and trade climbing, trekking equipment, avalanche gear, snowshoes, crampons, sleeping bags, backpacks and cold weather gear. Contact Errratic Rock 410355 • Baquedano 719 •
SHoPSAlondra Jewerly - Lapislazuli, rare stones, me-teorites, minerals, handmade jewlery & custom jewlery. Blanco Encalada 216 ph. 09-7102301
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April 2006
Classifieds - Puerto Natales, Chile
Whether entering or leaving Puerto Natales you can’t help but notice a vast collection of variously-sized water bottles, neatly stacked, on the road siding. No, it’s not a bottle bank minus the bank; it’s a shrine where locals pay homage to one of their many folk-saints - La Difunta Correa. In South America there are many such `SANTOS POPULARES´, to whom the people in need pray for everything from forgiveness to winning the lottery! These folk-saints are Non-Canonised Saints, and the devotion to them is completely frowned upon by the Catholic Church. With complete ignorance to this fact the locals believe that the commonality of the Saints holds them spiritually closer and therefore more prone to helping their `own´, more so than the so-called `Church-imported´ Saints.
During the Argentine civil wars of the mid-nineteenth century a militant leader - Facundo Quiroga, also know as the Tiger, was enlisting every able-bodied person in the province of San Juan to fight his cause. In 1835 he force-enlisted a Creole by the name of Bustos and, along with many others, lead him off to the town of La Rioja. His devoted and distressed wife Maria Antonia Deolinda Correa is said to have followed her husband through the desert, accompanied by their new-born son. After eight days or so Maria, now thirsty and exhausted and in need of help, climbed to the top of a hillock to enhance her view, but unfortunately she found nothing. Here she fell, drew her last breath and passed away. After a few days her body was found by some cattle drivers and miraculously the baby boy was still alive and suckling on her breast. Around her neck was a necklace which read CORREA, and so they buried her body and carved the name Difunta Correa (Dead Correa)
on a nearby Carob tree. The Difunta Correa (also recognised in Chile) is one of the most prominent of the many Argentine folk-saints. Her main shrine, which is in Vallecito, San Juan, is a large affair housing several chapels and devotional sites. Further to this, it has a Catholic church, a museum, restaurants, gift arcades, picnic areas and a hotel. Before proceeding on a long journey, an offering of a bottle of water is made to the Difunta Correa, along with prayers. These gestures ensure the traveler with a safe and happy journey. Today, the Difunta Correa has a rival for the number one spot; a bandit by the name of Gaucho Gill (Antonio Gill) has shrines popping up everywhere. These shrines pay homage to a bandit cross between Robin Hood and James Bond! They are noticeably marked with blood-red flags and may display the name GAUCHO or GAUCHO GILL.
Shrines of the times - La Difunta Correa
1�
Emergency Navimag Regular BusAmbulance 131 Punto Arenas 244400 Andescape 412877Fire 132 Puerto Montt (65) 432300 Bus Fernandez 411111Police 133 Puerto Natales 411642 Bus Pacheco 414513Sea + Air Rescue 137 Bus Sur 411859Hospital P.Arenas 205000 Airlines Cootra 412785Hospital P.Natales 411582 DAP 223340 Gomez 415700
Lan Chile 6005262000 JBZaahj
412824412260
Consulates Sky Airlines 6006002828Australia (02) 5503600 TourismCanada (02) 3629660 Airports CONAF 411438Germany (02) 4632560 Pucon (45) 554800 Museum Municipal 411263Netherlands (02) 2236825 Puerto Montt (65) 294161 Sernatur info 412125South Africa (02) 2312862 Punta Arenas (61) 211731United Kingdom (02) 3704100 Santiago (02) 6901752United States (02) 2322600 Temuco (45) 554800
Puerto Natales Map and Phone Numbers
1.............................................erratic rock2 .............................................Aquaterra4 ...................................Patagonia Dulce5 ..............................................La Repizza6................................................Big Foot7 ........................................Taller del Arbol 11...................................Milodon Laundry12 ............................................21 de Mayo14 ........................................ Chile Nativo15 ..................................................Ñandu20 ...........................Emporio de la Pampa22.................................Kawashkar23.....................................Hostel Alcazar24.............................................Casino25....................................Mesita Grande27........................................Path@gone28.....................................Errratic Rock II29.........................................Municipality30.........................................Museum31.......................................Weskar Lodge32.........................Puerto Bories Museum
M. Bulnes
Eberhard
Bories
B. Philipi
O’Higgins
Miraflores
Yungay
Ladrilleros
C. Pinto
A. Prat
B. Encalada
Baquedano
E. Ram
irez
Balm
acedaEsmeralda
Chorrillos
B. A
rana
Magallanes
T. Rogers
Magallanes
P. Montt
Valdivia
B. Zam
ora
Galvarino
B. Zam
ora
01
11
15
15
22
12071420
04
06
13
05
2823
Milodon CaveCerro Castillo
Puerto PratPuerto Bories
Torres del Painetrekking Dorotea
Rio Turbio, ArgentinePunta Arenas
NAV
IMA
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Welcome to Puerto Natales
02
24
25
27
30
31
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