Arizona & the Grand Canyon (Eyewitness Travel Guides) by DK Publishing and Paul Franklin (DK, 2010)BBS

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The Guides that show you what others only tell you

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arizona & therand canyon

EYEWITNESS TRAVEL GUIDES





E Y E W I T N E S S T R AV E L G U I D E S

Arizona & thegrand canyon



Tall saguaro cacti in the Sonoran Desert, Southern Arizona

M ANAGING EDITOR Aruna Ghose ART EDITOR Benu Joshi

SENIOR EDITOR Rimli BorooahEDITOR Bhavna Seth RanjanDESIGNER Mathew Kurien

PICTURE R ESEARCH Taiyaba KhatoonDTP COORDINATOR Shailesh Sharma

DTP DESIGNER Vinod Harish

M AIN CONTRIBUTOR

Paul FranklinPHOTOGRAPHERS

Demetrio Carrasco, Alan Keohane, Francesca YorkeILLUSTRATORS

P. Arun, Gary Cross, Eugene Fleurey, Claire Littlejohn,Chris Orr & Associates, Mel Pickering,

Robbie Polley, John Woodcock

Reproduced by Colourscan (Singapore)Printed and bound in China by L. Rex Printing Co. Ltd

First American Edition 200506 07 08 09 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1

Published in the United States by DK Publishing, Inc., 375 Hudson Street,

New York, New York 10014

Reprinted with revisions 200

Copyright © 2005, 2006 Dorling Kindersley LimitedLondon A Penguin Company

LL RIGHTS RESERVED UNDER NTERNATIONAL AND AN- MERICAN COPYRIGHT

ONVENTIONS. NO PART OF THIS PUBLICATION MAY BE REPRODUCED, STORED

IN A RETRIEVAL SYSTEM, R TRANSMITTED IN ANY FORM OR BY ANY MEANS,ELECTRONIC, MECHANICAL, PHOTOCOPYING, RECORDING OR OTHERWISE WITHOUT

THE PRIOR WRITTEN PERMISSION OF THE COPYRIGHT OWNER .

Published in Great Britain by Dorling Kindersley Limited.

A C ATALOGING IN PUBLICATION RECORD IS AVAILABLE FROM THELIBRARY OF CONGRESS.

ISSN 1542-1554

ISBN 0 7566 0527 X

The information in thisDorling Kindersley Travel Guide is checked regularly .

Every effort has been made to ensure that this book is as up-to-date aspossible at the time of going to press. Some details, however, such as

telephone numbers, opening hours, prices, gallery hanging

arrangements and travel information are liable to change. Thepublishers cannot accept responsibility for any consequences arisingfrom the use of this book, nor for any material on third party websites,and cannot guarantee that any website address in this book will be a

suitable source of travel information. We value the views andsuggestions of our readers very highly. Please write to:

Publisher, DK Eyewitness Travel Guides,orling Kindersley, 80 Strand, London WC2R 0RL, Great Britain.

Re axing in t e rose-co ore

sandstone of Antelope Canyon

Wupatki National Monument with ruins

of a 12th-century pueblo building

ON EN S

INTRODUCING RIZONA

UTTING RIZONA

ON THE AP 8

PORTRAIT OF

A RIZONA 10

A RIZONA THR

THE 30

T HISTORY OF

RIZONA 3



Hispanic pottery

R ELER N E

HERE TO STAY 122

HERE TO AT 132

SH PPIN I A RIZONA

142

ENTERTAINMENT IN

RIZONA 1 8

SPECIALTY V CATIONS

& A CTIVITIES 150

URVIVAL UIDE

RACTICAL

I FORMATION 158

TRAVE FORMATION

162

GE ERA I DEX

166

CKNOWLEDGMENTS

175

Contemporary glass skyscrapers in

downtown Phoenix

Visitors enjoying a trail ride at a

dude ranch in Southern Arizona

San Xavier del Bac Mission

in Tucson, Southern Arizona

RIZONA THEOUR ORNERSREA Y REA

TRODUCING

A RIZONA & THE FOUR

R ER

GRAND C ANYON &

ORTHERN A RIZONA 46

HOENIX UTHER

A RIZONA 74

F U ORNER 100

World famous Monument Valley in the Four Corners region





IN T R O D U C I N G A R I Z O N A

U T T I N I Z O N A O N T H E M 8–9

A P O R T R A I T O F A R I Z O N A 10–29

A R I Z O N A T H R O U G H T H E Y E A R 30–33

I S O RY O R I O N 34–41



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I N T R O D U C I N G A R I Z O N A

The Southwest , oil on canvas b Walter Ufe (1876–1936)



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Lake

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P U T T I N G A R I Z O N A O N T H E M A P





A P O R T R A I T O F A R I Z O N A

Spring flowers, such as sand verbena and dune primrose, cover the desert landscape

Cacti an rie c i is a orn t is f ower s op in Tucson’s istoric E Presi io istrict

AHE HEART OF ALL THINGS ARIZONAN ies its an scape – star

nd stunning, vast and magnificent. There is little in

Arizona that is “normal” – from towering red

ock buttes and deserts that secretly hoard explosions of life, to

deep canyons that are encyclopedias of the planet’s history.

Everywhere there is a sense o grandeur, drama, and contrast.

Nat ive American t ri es

have live in this regionfor thousands of years. They ha lourishing civi lizationsthat subsequently vanished,leaving mysterious an hauntingruins, which are today just astone’s throw rom mo ern citiesof glass and steel, toweringa ove the ancient esert.

The Spanish, too, had a thrivingculture here, a century before Englishcolonists turned westward toward

Arizona an the Southwest. When the Anglos finally reached the Southwest,their ee s an mis ee s gave rise tothe legends of the Wild West.

LIMATE ENVIRONMEN

Elevation, to a great extent, controlsthe environment in Arizona. For every 1,000 ft (300 m) in altitude, temper-atures fall 3–5°F (1–2°C), and different

lora and fauna dominate.

In Arizona’s southwestcorner, the Sonoran Desert iso ten little more than a 100 t

(30.5 m) above sea level. Here,ays are searingly hot, nights

are cold, and vegetation issparse. Hea ing east, the lanrises around 1,000 to 3,000 ft

300–1,000 m , an the esert o ten

ursts into vibrant bloom after springshowers. The northern half of thestate is dominated by the ColoradoPlateau – a rock ta lelan covering a

vast area of around 130,000 sq miles(336,700 sq km) and rising as high as12,000 ft (3,660 m).

In southeastern Arizona, somemountains higher than 10,000 ft (3,0 8

m are surroun e y esert, whichhas blocked the migration of plantsand animals for millions of years,creating unique ecosystems calle

A P R T R A I T O F A R I Z O N A

u of a

buffalo



I N T R O D U C I N G A R I Z O N A2

Native Americans performing a traditional dance during the Navajo Nation Fair at Window Roc

“Sky Islands.” Here are found animalssuch as the Mount Graham re squirrelthat exist nowhere else.

In this lan o contrasts, an hour’s

drive can lead from arid, barren landsof near-mystical silence, to mountainslanketed in lush and verdant forestse y spark ling snow-

melt streams.Most parts o Arizona

enjoy more than 300 dayso sunshine a year, yetaround 90 percent of thelan receives as little as

2 in 5 cm and no morethan 20 in 50 cm oannual rainfall. Suddensummer rainstorms on theColorado Plateau cause flash floods.Summer temperatures in the desert oftenreach more than 100°F (38°C), but canrop y up to 50°F 10°C a ter sunset.

UL URAL ROSSROADSModern Arizona has been forged by thesame three great cultures that havehelped shape much of America: Native

American, Hispanic, an Anglo- American. Spanish is the secondlanguage in Arizona, and throughoutthe Southwest. Everyday English ispeppere with a range o Spani sh

phrases, reflecting a regional heritagestretching back to the 1 th century. While US history usually focuses ondevelopments in the east coast Britishcolonies, Spanish explorers were in the

Southwest in 1539 see p38), 80 yearse ore the Pilgrims lan e at Plymouth

Rock. Native Americans have a farol er relationship with Arizona. The

Hopis and Pueblos trace their ancestry to the ancient peoples (see pp22–3) who built the elaborate cliff dwellings

at the sites o Mesa Ver e,Canyon de Chelly, andChaco Canyon. To ay’sNative populations have ahan in the government otheir own lands and haveemploye a variety o

ways to regenerate theireconomies – throughcasinos, tourism, coalpro uction, an cra ts

such as pottery, basketry, and Hopikachina dolls. Native Americanspiritual beliefs are complex, as eachri e has i erent practices, which areoften tied to ancestors and the land.

Most Native estivals an ances areopen to visitors, although some areprivate a airs or spiritual reasons.

LITICS CONOMY

To ay, Arizona is the country’s i th-largest state. Despite the fact that itspopulation is increasing, Arizona remainsone of the least populated in the United

States, with an average density of just 45people per square mile. However, thereis intense urbanization in certain areas – Phoenix, Tucson, and Flagstaff accountfor around 40 percent of the state’s

Mount Graham red squirrel

in the Sky Islands




Downtown Tucson – the city’s historical and cultural heart – at night

population. This has put an immensepressure on the region’s resources,

particularly water, which has ecomeone of the most pressing issues facing

Arizona. In the 1930s, am- uil ingprojects were initiated, starting withthe Hoover Dam. Thecontroversial Glen CanyonDam, opened in 1963,looded a vast area of naturaleauty, as well as many

sacred sites of the Native Americans . To ay, many tribes have asserted own-ership o the water on theirlands. Water has also eenchannele increasingly toward ur an use as farmersin need of cash sell or leasetheir water rights.

Manu acturing, high tech-nology, and the tourismin ustry have taken overrom mining and ranching as the

region’s principal employers. However,mining an agriculture remain impor-tant elements of the economy.

ENTERTAINMENT & THE A RTS

Arizona’s canyons, eserts, mountains,

rivers, and man-made lakes offer aplethora o hiking, watersports, skiing,and golfing opportunities. One of theest ways to experience the lan scape

is on a trail ride, while armchair

cow oys can atten that greatSouthwestern event – the rodeo. The

state ’s e erally-protecte nat ionalparks, recreation areas, and monuments

– such as Gran Canyon National Park,Glen Canyon National Recreation Area,

an Saguaro National Park – are favorite haunts forhikers, rock climbers, and4WD enthusiasts.Besi e out oor sport an

activities, Arizona’s red rocklan scapes an light havealways inspired artists,many o whom have settlein Sedona, Flagstaff, andPrescott. For culture lovers,there are orchestras, thea-ters, operas, and dancecompanies, who performregularly in Phoenix anTucson. Both cities alsohave a vi rant nightclu

scene, featuring country, jazz, andalternate soun s. A lourishing Hispanicmusic scene livens up nightclubs, whileNative American musicians such asCarlos R. Nakai mix traditional sounds

with classical music an jazz.The attractions of the stunning

lan scape an a romantic sense o thepast combine to conjure up the legendsof the “Wild West.” For many, theSouthwest offers the chance to indulgethat it o cow oy in their souls.

Saxophone player,

downtown Phoenix



Landscapes of Arizona

A IZONA’S COLORFUL, beautiful, and varied landscapehas been shaped by millions of years of volcanic

eruption, uplift, and wind and water erosion. Formuch of the Paleozoic Era (between about 570 and225 million years ago , the state was mostly covere y a vast inlan sea that eposite over 10,000 t(3,048 m) of sediment, which hardened into rock.Following the ormation o the Rocky Mountains,some 80 million years ago, rivers an rain all ero ehe rock layers and formed the deep canyons andarches that distinguish Arizona’s landscape.

The central geological feature of the region is the

Colora o Plateau, which covers some13,000 sq miles (34,000 sq km). It is cuthrough y many canyons, inclu inghe Gran Canyon see pp48–55).

1 4

Coral Pink Sand Dunes

State Park’s shimmering pink sand dunes cover more than 50 percent of this 3,700-acre (1,500-ha) park.

rizona’s mountains are part of the Rockies and were formed during volcanic activity and continental plate movement some 65 million years ago. Snow-covered peaks, forests of pine, juniper, spruce, and fir, and streams and small lakes fed by snowmelt, as well as alpine meadows are all found in this area.

K EY

Colorado Desert

Arizona Uplan

Colorado Plateau

High Country

Sky Islands

The utte formations of Monument Valley(see pp102–103) are the result of erosion and their

tops mark the level of an ancient plain.

G EOGRAPHICAL EGIONS

Arizona’s prominent eatures are t eCo ora o P ateau an t e Sonoran Desert, which is divided into Colorado Desert a d Arizona Up an . T e Hig Country mountain ranges are surroun e y es rt,creating the “Sky Islands” (see p16).

Grand Canyon




A P O R T R A I T O F A R I Z O N A 5

Lake Powell (see pp62–3) was formed by the damming of Glen Canyon in 1963. The creationof the 185-mile (300-km) long lake was reviled by environmentalists, and celebrated by watersport enthusiasts and parched farmers and city dwellers.

The Colorado Plateau is crossed

y river-forged canyons. Elevations

here range from2,000 ft (600 m)above sea level toaround 13,000 ft

(3,900 m). Dramaticvariations in the

landscape include desert, verdant river

valleys, thickly forested peaks, and

eroded bizarre sandstone formations.

Antelope Canyon , in the Glen Canyon area, is the most famous of Arizona’s narrow “slot”

canyons. The canyon’s rose-colored sandstone chambers, sculpted into sensual curves by centuries of flash floodwaters and desert winds,are a favorite subject for photographers.

MESAS, B UTTES & SPIRES

Like canyons, mesas come in many sizes.Some large ones measure over 100 miles(160 km) across, and are often the resultof land being forced up by geologicalforces. Other mesas, buttes, and spires arehard-rock remains left behind as a largeplain cracked, and then eroded away.

The orange sand of Monument Valley’s desert floor is dotted with plantssuch as sagebrush and cacti.



Flora & Fauna

DESPITE THE fact that over 70 percent of Arizona isoccupied by desert, it is not an arid, lifeless

wasteland. Here, elevation, more than any otherfactor, determines the flora and fauna of a location.The Sonoran Desert in the south is divided into the

low elevation, arid Colorado Desert, and thecomparatively higher and more verdant ArizonaUpland. Covering much of the state’s northern third isthe 13,000 sq mile (34,000 sq km) Colorado Plateau. Above 7,000 ft (2,134 m) is High Country, wheregreen pine forests, alpine meadows, and sparklingrivers abound. In the extreme southeast of the state,

where the Sonoran Desert gives way to a part of theChihuahuan Desert, the green-topped mountains of the High Country are surrounded by arid desert,creating special eco-zones calle Sky Islan s, whereunique species have evelope over the millennia.


Prickly pear cacti flower in spring and

are among the largest of the many

types of cacti that flourish in

the Sonoran Desert.

The Joshua tree was named by Mormons who

pictured the upraised arms of Joshua in

its branches.

E A R IZ ON A P LA NDT e summer “monsoon” an winter stormsmake the upland region – in the northeast of Arizona’s Sonoran Desert – t e greenest o t e

eserts. It is amous or its ta saguaro cactus(see p90), some of which attain heights of50 ft (15 m), and provide a home for animalssuch as the gila woodpecker and the elf owl.

HE C LORADO DESERTDry or most o t e year, t is vast, ariportion of the Sonoran Desert gets a smallamount o winter rain t at resu ts in aisp ay o wi owers in spring. Ot er ora

and fauna found here include creosotebush, cacti, yucca, jackrabbits, deserttortoises, and bighorn sheep.

The desert tortoise can live for more

than 50 years.

It is now a protected species and is increasingly difficultto spot.

The mountain lion , also

known as cougar or puma, is found in remote desert and mountain areas in Arizona. The males may be up to 8 ft (2.4 m)long and weigh 150 lbs (68 kg).

The blacktailed

ackrabbit is born witha full coat of muted furto camouflage it from predators such asthe coyote.



Black bears inhabit Arizona’s mountainous

areas. Their diet consists of nuts, insects, and small mammals. They are shy,but may approachhumans out of curiosity or if they smell food.

spen trees are

common at elevations over

8,000 ft (2,438 m).Their leaves turn

a rich goldencolor in fall.


D AN GE RS IN TH E DESERT

T e anger o poisonous esert creatures as o teneen exaggerate . A t oug some esert creatures

do, on rare occasions, bite or sting people, the bites

are se om ata un ess t e victims are sma c i renor have serious health problems. To avoid being hurt,never reach into dark spaces or overhead ledges where you can’t see. Watch where you place yourfeet, and shake out clothes and shoes before puttingthem on. Never harass or handle a poisonouscreature. If you are bitten, stay calm andseek medical help immediately.

Piñon pines are ball-shaped, less

than 30 ft (9.1 m)tall, and are found between4,000 and 6,000 ft (1,829 m).

The diamondback rattlesnake is found in Arizona’s deserts and

mountains. Its bite is venomous, but seldom deadly if treated. It usually strikes only when surprised.

The Arizona bark scorpion is golden in

color. America’s most venomous scorpion, it has a sting that requires prompt medical help.

HE IGH COUNTRY

At ig er e evations, Arizona’s p ants ananimals are similar to those of Canada. Blackears, mu e eer, an e are some o t eauna. Pon erosa pines are oun at6,000–9,000 ft (1,829–2,743 m), aspen forestsat 8,000–11,000 ft (2,438–3,353 m), and alpinemeadows at 11,000–13,000 ft (3,353–3,962 m).

HE OLORADO LATEAU

C assica y Western wit canyons, c i s,mesas, and buttes, the Colorado Plateau isotte wit cacti, sage, an mesquite in itsower reac es. At ig er a titu es, t e orachanges to piñon pines and junipers.Rattlesnakes, cougars, and coyotes areamong the wildlife found on the plateau.

The coyote is a small,

highly intelligent member of the dog family. It hunts both solo and in packs, and can often be heard howling at night.



A IZONA’S QUALITIES of light, open spaces,and colorful landscapes have inspire

art an cra t or centuries – rom intricateaskets an pottery o the Native Ameri-cans to the religious art o the early Spanish missions. In the 1800s, Fre ericRemington an Charles Russell painteromantic images o the Wil West. Later,

in the 20th century, Ansel Adams photographed thebeauty and physical drama of the land. Today, Arizonais a dynamic center for the arts, with vibrant art mus-eums, usy galleries, an a lively community o artists.


Basketwork is associated with most Native tribes. Braided, twined or coiled from willow or yucca leaves,the baskets are decorated differently by each tribe.

nglo art developed as European settlers moved westward. Works by Frederic Remington (see p24) , such as Cowboy ona Horse seen above, and by Thomas Morancaptured cowboy life and the stunning landscapes of the West. Today, this traditioncontinues with artists portraying traditional and contemporary life in the West.

Ancient pottery bowl

Art o Arizona

TRADITIONAL N ATIVE A R

Five un re years e ore Co um us arrive in t e New World, Native tribes in Arizona were producing baskets,pottery, an jewe ry o stunning e icacy an eauty.T ousan s o arti acts recovere rom Ancient Pue oan,Hohokam, and Mogollon sites are on display at majorinstitutions. The Heard Museum see pp78–9 has one othe world’s most comprehensive collections of bothancient and contemporary Native art, and the ArizonaState Museum (see p89 as a significant display that

covers 2,000 years of Native history. The Museum of Nort ern Arizona in F agsta (see p ) eatures superexamp es o Sinagua pottery an arti acts rom ear y Navajo, Hopi, and Zuni tribal life. Native tribes still pro-uce tra itiona art an cra ts, an tra ing posts are an

excellent place to see and purchase them (see pp146–7).

Pottery One of the oldest of all Native art forms, exceptional pottery collec-tions can e seen at the Edge oCedars State Par (see p117)




MODERN N ATIVE A RTISTS

Native artists often blend traditional themes with modern styles. The Red-Tailed Hawk (198 ) by Daniel Namhinga reflects hisHopi-Tewa heritage in the stylized kachinaand birdwing forms, boldly rendered inbright desert colors. It is part of the Nativeart collection at Heard Museum (see p79).

One of the most popular art formsin Arizona to ay, exce ent exam-

p es o contemporary scu pture,such as the piece featured here – Dineh 1981 – can e seen in

alleries throughout the state. Dineh meaning “t e peop e,” isthe word the Navajo use todescribe themselves. This bronzeisplays clean lines and smooth

surfaces that evoke the strengthand dignity of the subjects.

Silver Jewelry

Made rom si ver and turquoise, jewelry is are ative y new art ormdeveloped by the Navajo and Zuni tribes in the ate 1800s.

Latin art first appeared in Arizona during the panish Colonial period, usually representing reli-

gious themes. Today, it depicts the Hispanic cultures of the American Southwest and Mexico. Exhibits

featuring the works of renowned contemporary Latin artists can be found at major art museums.

C NTEMPORARY

SCULPTURE

RugsWeaving began in the mid-1800s. Today, aine Navajo rug can sel or thousands of dollars.

CarvingsKachina represent Hopi spirits.They can be traced to the tribe’s early history, and ancient kachi-n are va ued co ector’s items.



San Xavier del

Bac Mission(see pp92–3)exemplifies the Baroque traditionof the SpanishColonial churches .

I N T R O D U C I N G A R I Z O N A2 0

Arc itecture of Arizona

A IZONA’S DISTINCTIVE ARCHITECTURE traces its influencesto the Ancient Puebloan master-builders, whose

stone and adobe cliff dwellings, such as Canyon deChelly’s Antelope House (see p108), were suited to theregion’s harsh climate. Historic architecture can beseen in many old town districts, where adobes arearranged around a central plaza. But there are alsoother styles, from the Spanish Colonial of the 18thcentury to those of the 19th and early 20th century.

Wooden storefronts, Victorian mansions, and miners’cottages all lend a rustic charm to the region’s many mountain towns. Scottsdale see p80) has an architec-

ure school that was set up y Frank Lloy Wright, oneo the 20th century’s most amous architects

RADITIONAL A DOBE

T e tra itiona ui ing materia o t e Sout west is a o e, amixture of mud or clay and sand, with straw or grass as ain er. T is is orme into ric s, w ic ar en in t e sun, t enui t into wa s, cemente wit a simi ar materia , an p astere

over with more mud. Adobe deteriorates quickly and must bereplastered every few years. Modern adobe-style buildings are

often made of cement and covered with lime cement stuccopainted to look like adobe. Original dwellings had dirt floorsand wooden beams vigas as ceiling supports. These structuresalso had adobe ovens that were used for baking.

Immaculate Conception

Church, Ajo see p96)

A o e ovens suc as t ese were

once used for baking

A traditional adobe rancho or ranch house has a

flat roof with pipes (canales) to drainaway water.

anale (water pipe) Adobe bricks

SPANISH OLONIAL

In the 17th and 18thcenturies, Spanish Colonialmissions combined theBaroque style of Mexicanand European religious

arc itecture wit Nativedesign, using local materialsan cra tsmen. T is sty eun erwent a resurgenceas Spanish Colonial Revival,rom 1915 to t e 1930s,and was incorporated intoprivate homes and publicbuildings. Red-tiled roofs,ornamental terra-cotta,and stone or iron grille

wor were com ine wit white stucco walls. Aine examp e is Tucson’sPima County Courthouse see p88 , wit its omea orne wit co ore ti es.

Moorish-styledome

Domes and towers of San Xavier del Bac Mission

Iron gri e wor

Ornate wooden carvings




MISSION EVIVAL

Simi ar in spirit to Spanis Co onia tren s, t e ear y 20t -century Mission Reviva sty e is c aracterize y stucco wa smade of white lime cement, often with graceful arches, flat

roo s, an courtyar s, ut wit ess ornamentation. A ineexample of a Mission Revival-style bungalow is the J. KnoxCor ett House in Tucson’s Historic District see p88 . Built of rick but plastered over in white to simulate adobe, it has a

red-tile roof and a big screen porch at the back.

J. Knox Corbett

House in Tuscon

was designed in the popular Mission Revival style by the Chicagoarchitect David Holmes in 1906.

Red-tiled roof W ite p aster Façade of J. Knox Corbett House

C NTEMPORARY A RCHITECTURE

Arizona has inspired three of the 20th century’s most prominent American architects.

Frank Lloyd Wright (18 7–1959) advocated “Organic Architecture” – the use of localmateria s an t e importance o creating structures t at en e wit t eir settings.The architectural complex he built at Taliesin West in Scottsdale includes a school,o ices, an is ome. Constructe rom esert stone an san , t e expansiveproportions of the complex reflect the vastness of the Arizona Desert.

Mary Elizabeth Jane Colter (1870–1958) was one of the most influential architects in America at a time when women architects were virtually unknown. At the turn of the20th century, the Santa Fe Railroad hiredColter to design several buildings in the

Gran Canyon area. Co ter wasfascinated by Native Americanui ing sty es an is

cre ite wit starting t earchitectural style calledNationa Par ServiceRustic. Her masterpiece isHopi House see p54 completed in 1904.In the 1940s, ItalianPaolo Soleri (b. 1919)

studied at Taliesin. In195 , he established theCosanti Foun ation see p81) devoted to what

e terme “arco ogy.”T is synt esis oarchitecture andecology minimizesenergy waste, whichis en emic in mo -ern buildings

and towns.

The visitor building at Arcosanti, designed

y Pao o So eri

Interiors of the Frank Lloyd Wright-designed

Taliesin West in Scottsdale, Phoenix

Desert View’s stone watchtower designed by Mary

olter, at Grand Canyon South Rim



THE NATIVE PEOPLES o Arizona havemaintaine many o their tra itions, in

spite of more than 400 years of armedcon lict an rutal attempts at culturalassimilation since the arrival o the Spanishin 1539. Such har ships have orge theiretermination to retain cultural i entities,

though some have chosen to movebetween two worlds – living and working in the mod-ern world while taking part in tribal life and traditionalceremonies. Since the mi -20th century, Native groupshave le political campaigns or the restoration o

homelan s an compensation or past losses.To ay, there are 23 Native reservations in Arizona, theNavajo Reservation being the largest. Tourism and gam-bling have brought much-needed revenue, but battlesover land rights and environmental issues continue.


THE A PACHE

ESPITE THEIR repuationas fierce warriors, re-

inforced by their legendary leaders Cochise and Gero-nimo see p38), traditionally the Apache were mainly hunter-gatherers. They are

t oug t to ave roamesouth from their Athabascan-spea ing ome an s innort ern Cana a uringthe 15th century.

The largest Apachereservations are the adjoiningSan Carlos and Fort Apachereservations in the east-central part of Arizona. Over12,000 Apaches live on them,

wit t e primary in ustriesbeing cattle ranching, timber,an tourism. Success umanagement of their naturalresources as ensure aegree o economic sta i ity.

Native Cu tures of Arizona

THE N AVAJO

W ITH A POPULATION of ore than 200,000, the

Navajo Nation is the largestreservation in southwesternUSA, covering more than25,000 sq miles ( 4,750 sqkm) in Arizona, New Mexico,an sout ern Uta . T e

spiritua center o t e NavajoNation is Canyon de Chelly (see pp10 –9), w ere Navajofarmers still live, tend to theirsheep, and make rugs usingthe sheep wool. The Navajo

Navajo Indian woman shearing wool from a sheep

Hopi wicker plaque

THE OPI

HE PREDOMINANT Pue otribe in Arizona is the

Hopi, w ose reservation islocated in the center of theNavajo Reservation. T ey are

one o 20 Pue o tri es inthe Southwest. Pueblo tribesshare many of the samereligious and cultural beliefs,though there are linguisticdifferences from tribe to

Visitors are welcome atthe Apache reservations to watc ritua s suc as t enah’ih’es or SunriseCeremony, which marks agir ’s transition to woman-hood. Dances, festivals, andro eos are a so e on t ereservations see pp30–33

are generally welcomingto visitors, and act as guidesin Monument Valley and

other sites on their lan(see pp102–3). They haveresiste ui ing casinos toraise money, asing t eireconomy on tourism and thesa e o natura resourcessuc as oi , coa , anuranium. However, many Navajo are oppose to t epollution that strip-miningand other industrial

enterprises have brought. While many Navajo nowive off the reservation incities and towns, the tradi-tiona we ing, t e hogan,remains an important ocusof their cultural life. Today’shogan is an octagona woocabin, often fitted with elec-tricity and other modernamenities, where family

gatherings take place.Navajo religious beliefs are

still bound up with daily life, with farmers singing corn-growing songs an weaversincorporating a spirit threadinto t eir rugs. Co or u anintricate san paintings stiplay a part in healing cere-monies, w ic aim to restorehozho, or harmony, to ill or

trou led individuals.

Rodeo in session at the Apache reservation in Whiteriver, Arizona



OPI SPIRI UALI Y

Re igion is a un amenta e ement o Hopi i esty e. T eirceremonies ocus on kachina or katsina – spirit iguresthat symbolize nature in all its forms. Familiar to visitors

as t e painte , carve woo en o s avai a e in many gift stores, the kachina lie at the heart of Hopi spiritu-ality. During the growing season (December to July),

these spirit figures are represented by kachina dancers who visit Hopi villages.

During the rest of the year, the spiritsare believed to reside in a shrine inthe high San Francisco Peaks, north

o F agsta . Hopi re igious ceremoniesare often held in the kiva, a roundun ergroun c am er, usua y c ose

to visitors. Most ce e rations are c oseto non-Hopis, but some are open tohe public. Photography of Pueblo

villages and ceremonies is forbidden.


Young dancer at an Ute powwow,

a gathering of Native Indians

Ute woman sewing moccasins with Mount Ute in the background

tri es are among t e mostanglicized in the region. TheTohono O’odham are mainly Christian. However, they stillpractice traditional cere-monies, such as the Saguaro Wine Festival and the Tcirk- wena Dance, an are nownor t eir ine as etwor .

THE U TE

HIS TRIBE ONCE reignedover a vast territory,

covering 85 percent of

Colorado until as late as the1850s. Stea y encroac ment y sett ers an mininginterests eventually forced

em to resett e. To ay, t eUte welcome visitors to their wo reservations along thesouthern Colorado order.The Ute Mountain Reserv-ation is home to the littleknown but spectacular

Ancestral Puebloan ruins of Ute Mountain Tri a Par see p110), and the southernUte Reservation attracts

ousan s o visitors eac year to the popular Sky UteCasino, Lo ge, an Museum.The southern Utes also holda colorful Bear Dance onMemorial Day weekend.

tri e. Most Pue o tri estrace their ancestry to the Ancestra Pue oan peop e

(see pp36–7), who spreadacross t e area rom aroun300–200 BC. The town o Walpi on the Hopi Reserva-tion has been continuously occupied since AD 1100.

The oldest Hopi villagesare on three mesa-tops,called First, Second, andT ir mesas. T e groupson each mesa are distinct,

exce ing at i erent cra ts – pottery on First Mesa,jewelry on Second Mesa,and basketry on ThirdMesa. All the settlementsproduce colorful achinas .

The land occupied by theHopi is among the starkestand most barren in all America. However, using t eancient irrigation techniques

o t eir ancestors, t e Hopigrow corn, beans, andsquas . Eac vi age o ssacre ances an cere-monies throughout the year.

THE H AVASUPAI

H UALAPAI

HESE TWO TRIBES occupy

two reservations thatstretch along the southernrim of the Grand Canyon.They trace their ancestry tohe ancient Hohokam peoplean s are simi ar anguages.T e on y town on t eHavasupai reservation isSupai, 8 mi es 13 m romhe nearest road. Thereservation is t e gateway to

he beautiful Havasu Canyonand emerald green HavasuFalls see p48 , a populardestination for hikers.

Young Hopi Rainbow dancer

HE OHONO ’ DHAM

A ONG WITH their closerelatives, the Pima peo-

ple, the Tohono O’odhamlive in South Arizona’s Sono-ran Desert. Due to the harsenvironment here, neithertri e as ever een moveo its ancestra an s. T ese



T e Wild West

R MANTICIZED IN A thousan cow oy movies, the“Wil West” conjures up images o tough men

her ing cattle across the country e ore living it upin a saloon. But rontier li e was ar rom romantic.Settlers arriving in this wil erness were caught upin a irst-come- irst-serve attle or lan an wealth,ighting Native Americans and each other for land.The rugged life of the prospectors and ranch cow-

boys helped to create the idea of the American West. Visitors can still see mining ghost towns suchas Chloride (see p73) or enjoy re-enacted gunfightson the streets of Tombstone. In the late 19th

century, however, such survival skills as good shoot-ing often co-existed with a kill-or-be-killed ethos.


The Conversation, or Dubious Company (1902) by Frederic

Remington highlights the tensions between Natives and the US army, whichhad played a central role in removing tribes fromtheir ancestral lands.

Women in the Wild West oftenhad to step into the traditional roles of men. Calamity Jane, a

woman scout, was known to be an excellent shot and horse rider.

A reward poster

for William Bonney (better known as Billy the Kid), who was one of the Wild West’s most notorious outlaws. He was eventually tracked and killed by Sheriff

Pat Garrett at Fort Sumner, New Mexico,on July 14, 1881.

Deadwood Dick was the nickname of cowboy Nat

Love, famed for his cattle-roping skills.

Although there were around 5,000 black

cowboys, there are no sights or museums

commemorating them in the

Southwest today.

Cowboys were famousfor their horsemanship andense of camaraderie. The

painting s ows two rien sattempting to save anot er.




SOUTHWESTERN C WBOYS

New York-born artist Frederic SackriderRemington (1861–1909) became well knownfor his epic portraits of cowboys, horses,soldiers, and Native Americans in the late19th century. Featured above is Aiding aComrade (1890), one of his works whichcelebrates the bravery and loyalty of thecowboy, at a time when they and small-scale ranchers were being superceded by powerful mining companies and ranchingcorporations. Remington lamented thepassing of these heroes: “Cowboys! Thereare no cowboys anymore!”

THE G UNFIGHT AT

THE OK CORRAL

One of the most famous tales of the Wild West is the Gunfight at the OK Corral inTom stone, Arizona see p98

. T isstrugg e pitte two c ans against eacother, the Clantons and the Earps. The

usua , o ten ispute , version eaturesthe Clantons as no-good outlaws and theEarps as t e orces o aw an or er. In1881 Virgil Earp was the town marshal,and his brothers Morgan and Wyatt weretemporary deputies. The showdown onOctober 26 had the Earps and their ally Doc Holliday on one side and Billy C anton an t e McLaury rot ers, Tomand Frank, on the other. Of the sevencom atants, on y Wyatt Earp emerge

untouc e y a u et. Bi y, Tom, anFrank were all killed. Wyatt Earp movedto Los Ange es, w ere e ie in 1929.

Guided trail rides are a great way to explore the Wild West and are part of the package of activities available at dude ranches (see p152)These ranches offer visitors the opportunity toexperience the contemporary cowboy lifestyle.

Horses were vividly depicted in Remington’sramatic action scenes. T ey were painte

wit astonis ing rea ism, revea ing a pro ounknowledge of their behavior and physique.

cene from t e 1957 fi m, Gunfight at the OK

Corral , with Burt Lancaster and Kirk Douglas

Cowboy fashion began to appear inadvertisements in around 1900. The ever popular Levi Strauss denim clothing can be

ought across the region (see p142)




A IZONA S TREMENDOUS mineral wealth, which hasshaped much of the state’s history, is a result of its

unique geology. People have sought and used Arizona’smineral riches for centuries. Early Native jewelry wasmade of turquoise and raw copper. In the 1800s, goldand silver deposits were discovered, and towns grew up overnight to house the swelling populations of min-ers. It was copper, though, that provided Arizona itsreatest mineral oom, with mines at Jerome, Bis ee,

an Glo e pro ucing high-gra e ore or over a century.To ay, rockhoun s rom aroun the worl collecteauti ul crystals an rare minerals. Souvenirs can also

be found in rock shops, or at any of the gem andmineral shows that Arizona hosts (see p142).

INERAL COLLECTING

S AF E Y IP S

Practice prudent desert sa ety

(see pp160–61).

Never venture out alone.

Always try to explore new

areas with a qualified guide.

Contact local rock shops or

mineral clubs for up-to-date

information on collecting sites.

Always obtain permission be ore

collecting on private property.

Never enter an open m ne

shaft; beware of hidden shafts

in the desert floor.

Wear safety gear, particularly

goggles, when using tools.

Rock and gem shows are hosted across Arizona every

year. They are a good placeto see world-class rocks, minerals and gems, and learn aboutmineralogy and rock collecting.

MINERAL CO L LE C I NG

Rockhounding with other collectors can beboth exciting and educational. Visitors will finda number of excellent rock collecting sitesthroughout Arizona, particularly in the state’scentral and southern regions. Some of thesesites are easily accessible, and visitors onlyrequire to know which area of the desert floor,canyon, or dry wash to search. Other sites,particularly mine sites and private property,require special permission to explore. Theaccessibility of sites may vary – local rockshops and mineral clubs are excellent sourcesof up-to-date information for newcomers.

Mine tours are conducted by historic mines, and offer

an insight into the everyday life of early miners.

Mines & Mineral Collecting



A P O R T R A I T O F A R I Z O N A 2 7

RIZONA MINERALS

Arizona’s mines yield exquisite mineralssuc as t e ri iant ue-green azuritean c rysoco a, ric green ma ac ite,darker-than-emerald dioptase, rust-red wu enite, an turquoise, w ic as eenrevered for centuries. Most regions in thestate pro uce eauti u quartz; crysta s as

small as sand grains or as big as cucum-bers, royal purple amethyst, translucentrose quartz, agates of every hue, anstunning geodes – rocks whose hollow centers are filled with glittering crystals. Quartz Amethyst

OCK M INERAL

CLUBS

Mineralogical Society of Arizona ∑ www.azminerals.com

Se ona Oa Cree Gem & Minera Society ∑ www.sedonagemandmineral.

org

Tucson Gem & Mineral

Soc ety § (520) 322-5773.

Tucson Old PuebloLapidary Club§ 520 323-9154.

INE OURS

Gold Mine ToursOatman, AZ 86433.

∑ www.goldroadmine.com

Queen Mine Tour Bisbee, AZ.

§ 520 432-2071.

G OLD ANNING

OUR

Arrowhead Desert Tours∑ www.az eserttours.com

SHOPS

Arizona Gems &Minerals§ 928 772-6443.

Copper City Rock Shop∑ www.coppercityrockshop.com

Discount Agate House§ (520) 323-0781.

R ESOURCES

Gold panning is a fascinating pastime that can be enjoyed at many of Arizona’s streams. Guided tours to

sites that yield precious gold flakes cater to bothnewcomers and skilled panners.

Rose quartzMalachite Azurite

Polished quartz



R UTE is America’s most famous road.Stretching for 2,448 miles (3,941 km)

rom Chicago to Los Angeles, it is part of he country’s folklore, symbolizing thereedom of the open road and inextricably linked to the growth of automobile travel.Known also as “The Mother Road” and

America’s Main Street,” Route 66 was officially open-ed in 192 after a 12-year construction process linkedhe main streets of hundreds of small towns that hadbeen previously isolated. In the 1930s, a prolongerought in Oklahoma deprived more than 200,000

armers of their livelihoods and prompted their trek toCalifornia along Route . This was movingly depictedin John Steinbeck’s novel The Grapes of Wrath 1939).


K Y

Route

Other roads

State boundary

Seligman eatures several Route 66 stores and diners. Set among Arizona’s Upland mountains,the road here passes through scenery that evokes the daysof the westward pioneers.

he Grand Canyon Caverns ,

discovered in 1927,are around 0.75

miles (1.2 km)below ground level.

On a 45-minute guided tour visitors

are led through football field-sized

caverns adorned with stalagmites

and seams of sparkling crystals.

Route 66 in Arizona passes t stretches of wilderness beari of the trappings of the mode world. The state has the longest remaining stretchof the original road.

atman , a former gold-mining boomtown (see p73) , has 19th-century buildings and boardwalks lining its historic main street. Mock gunfights are regularly staged here.

RouteF agstaff sign

Route 66 in Arizona

68

93

895

40

40

93

66

0 km

0 miles

40

0




R UTE IN OPULAR C ULTURE

In the 1940s and 1950s, as America’s lovea air wit t e car grew an more peop emove west t an ever e ore, un re s o

motels, restaurants, and tourist attractionsappeared along Route , sporting a vibrantnew style of architecture. The road’s end as amajor thoroughfare came in the 1970s with thebuilding of a national network of multilanehighways. Today, the road is a popular touristdestination in itself, and along the Arizonasection, enthusiasts and conservationists havehelped to ensure the preservation of many of its most evocative ui ings an signs.

Holbrook was founded in 1882

and is another Route 66 landmark.

It is famous for Wigwam Village

Motel (see p126) , arestored 1950s

Williams is known for its many nostalgic diners and motels. Twisters Soda Fountain (see p137) ,also known as The Route 66 Place, is crammed with road memorabilia, including the original 1950s soda fountain and bar stools.

L OCATOR AP

Route 66

Map area

Bobby Troup, composer of the popular song,Route 66 , in a 1948 Buick convertible

180

17

64

89

89

377

191

87

77

6140

66 87

180

66

191

road, including such stars as Willie Nelson.




T

HE WEATHER in the state of Arizona is we nown or

its extremes, ranging romhe heat of the esert to the iceand snow of the mountains.Temperatures vary accordingo a titu e, an so t e ig ere e evation o t e an , t e

cooler the area will e.Because the climate can beunbearably hot during thesummer mont s, particu ar y in t e sout ern parts o t e state,many people prefer to travel to

Arizona uring spring an a . T ispart of the world is particularly

eauti u in a , wit an astoun ingarray of golds, reds, and yellowsin the forests an nationalpar s. Besi es Arizona’snatural beauty, visitors canexperience many i erentin s of festivals an cele-

brations, which are unique tot e state an re ect itsiverse mix of the three main

Southwestern cultures – Native American, Hispanic, and European.

PRING

VERYONE ENJOYS eingoutdoors in spring, and

many festivals and celebra-tions are hel at this time

throughout Arizona.

ARCH

actus League Spring Training (month long)P oenix an Tucson. Majoreague baseball teams play inpre-season practice andexhibition games. uild Indian Fair & Market

irst weekend) Phoenix.Held at the Heard Museum,the fair features Indianancing, arts, cra ts, an

Native American oo .Sedona International Film Festiva irst wee end Sedona. Film fans gather to view films and attend the workshop at the festival.

Sun ay on Centra early Apr) Phoenix. Vibrant streetair wit music an ancing

on a num er o stages. Arizona Book Festival (first

at Phoenix. Event sees 200local and national authors,and hundreds of exhibitors with new and used books.

Stringing ristras of hot chili peppers

R I Z O N A T H R O U G H T H E Y E A R

Native dancer at the Guild Indian

Fair and Market, Phoenix

Midnight at the Oasis

Festival (early Mar Yuma.Cars an nosta gia, witover 800 restored andunusua cars on isp ay.Fourth Avenue Street Fair (mid-Mar) Tucson. Artistsfrom all over the UnitedStates, food vendors, livemusic performances, sidewalperformers, kids’ entertain-ment, and fun activities for all.

St. Patric ’s Day Para e(mid-Mar) Sedona. Annualpara e ce e rates t e green,prece e y a 3.1-mi e(5-km) race.

Easter Pageant (week

preceding Easter Mesa.Large annual outdoortheatrical productioneld every night at the

Mormon Temp e wit acast of hundreds inistorica costumes.

Maricopa County Fairmid-Apr P oenix. Carniva ,

entertainment, competitions,education, and fun times

or all ages. Tucson International Mariachi Conferencemid–late Apr) Tucson.

Annual celebration of Mexican mariachi musican ancing.Pima County Fair late Apr)Tucson. Horses an catt e,gems and minerals, concerts,ex i its, ri es, an oo

provide great family fun.La Vuelta de Bisbee

ate Apr Bisbee. Aprofessional 80-mile129-km) bicycle race in

the Bisbee area.

Rides at the Maricopa County fair held in Phoenix



A R I Z O N A T H R O U G H T H E Y E A R 3

A UGUST

Summer est (first weekend)F agsta . Jurie artists ancra tspeop e, musicians, anarray of fine foods, andactivities for children. White Mountain BluegrassMusic Festival second wee -end) Pinetop-Lakeside. Theregion’s finest bluegrass and

ospe music, arts an cra tsfair featuring children’s crafts,music wor s ops, an oo .Payson Ro eo third week-end) Payson. Sanctioned by

e Pro essiona Ro eo Cow-boy Association (PRCA), thebest of the best compete forsizeable prize money. Arizona Cowboy Poets

at ering third weekend)

Prescott. B en o tra itionaand contemporary poems,songs an stories a out t elives of working cowboys on

e Arizona range, e ate S ar ot Ha Museum.

U E

Sharlot Hall Museum Folk Arts Fair (first weekend)Prescott. Demonstrations of t e arts, s i s, an entertain-ments of the territorial years.

Folk arts fair at Sharlot Hall Museum, Prescott

S UMMER

SUMMER IS WARM an is t etime for many open-air

events, rom carniva s anrodeos to cultural events.The weather in July and August, however, can beextreme, especially inSouthern Arizona, which has very high temperatures and violent summer storms.

M AY

El Cinco de Mayo May 5 Many Arizona towns. Festi- vities to mark the 18 2Mexican victory over theFrench include parades,ancing, an Mexican oo .

Wyatt Earp Days Memorial Day weekend) Tom stone.Moc gun ig ts, c i i coo -off, “hangings,” 1880sas ion s ow, street enter-

tainment, and barbecue.Bill Williams Rendezvous Memoria Day wee end

Williams. Enthusiasts from allover the US gather for ablack-powder shoot, carnival,street ance, para e, anpioneer arts an cra ts.Phippen Western Art S ow & Sa e Memoria Day wee kend) Prescott. Western

art an scu pture uyers,sellers, and admirers comefor the juried fine arts show.

J ULY

Fourth of July 4 Ju y Most Arizona towns. Celebrationsinclude parades, fireworks,rodeos, sports, music festi-

vals, and Indian dances.F agstaff Festiva of t e Arts early July–mid-Aug )F agsta . A ce e ration ot e arts, eaturing i ms,concerts, plays, and operas.Frontier Days irst wee Prescott. The oldest profes-sional rodeo in the world,eaturing calf roping and

wild horse racing.

Hispanic musicians or mariachis play at a Cinco de Mayo celebration

Arizona Highland Celtic

Festiva third Saturday Flagstaff. Entertainment andactivities for all ages withbagpipers, dances, athleticdemonstrations, and food. W ite Mountain Native American Art Festival &In ian Mar et third weekend Pinetop-La esi e.Features the region’s finestNative artists, emonstrations,

performances, and foods. Arizona Cardinals

ra n ng Camp ate uly–mid-Aug) Flagstaff. Mostpractice sessions of this NFLeam are open to the public.

Shakespeare Sedona month long) Se ona.

Theatrical productions of S a espearean se ections.

Se ona Taste (Sunday

before Father’s Day Se ona.Chef’s from top restaurantsprepare oo samp es anserve fine wines.Pine Country Pro Rodeothird wee end F agsta .

Competitors take part inbronc and bull riding,roping, and barrel racing.Summer Rodeo Series(June–mid-Aug Williams.

Watch cowboys in rodeoevents, inc u ing are ac ,team roping, ca roping,bull riding, and more.




SEPTEMBER

Navajo Nation Fair & Rodeoear y Sep Window Rock.

Largest Native American fairin the US with a parade, arodeo, traditional song anddance, and arts and crafts.Rendezvous of the unfig ters Labor Day

weekend) Tombstone.Inc u es a para e, stage-coac ri es, c i i coo -o s,and mock shootouts.

oconino County Fair

(Labor Day weekend)Flagstaff. Carnival rides, food,ocal arts and crafts exhibits,demolition derby and carshows, and live music.

F ALL

HE AUTUMNAL orests anmountains of Arizona are

stri ing, a aze wit ri iant yellows, reds, and golds. Fallis one of the est seasons fortouring and sightseeingbecause the temperature iscooler and more comfortable.

CTOBER

Air A aire (first weekend)Page. Air-show pilotsentertain an t ri wit

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UCSON

Gran Canyon MusicFestival (mid-Sep) GrandCanyon Vi age. Finec am er music, romBaroque to classical, jazz,

usion, an cross over. Andy Devine Days (mid-

ep Kingman. PRCA ro eo,parade and activities honorthe town of Kingman andactor Andy Devine. Apache County Fair (mid-Sep St. Johns. Horseracing, entertainment, andlivestock shows and exhibits. Jazz on t e Roc s Festiva

third weekend Se ona.Great names in jazz performor t ousan s o visitors.

Flagstaff Festival of Science ate SepFlagstaff. Ten days ofevents, including field trips,interactive exhibits, andopen-houses at museumsand observatories.

C imateThe climate varies across the state. Phoenix and the

southern areas have hot and dry summers and mild, sunny winters, whereas towns, such as F agsta , in the northern areashave snowy winters.These areas are co der due to their higher elevation.

Average daily maximum

temperature

Average daily minimum temperature

Average daily hours of unshine

Averagemonthly

rainfall

aerobatics, showmanship,speed, and fun.Kingman Air & Auto S ow first weekend) Kingman. Airshow with acrobatics and an

auto s ow wit rag racing.Fort Verde Days (second wee end Camp Ver e. Annual event with parade,horse events, barbecue,cavalry drills, and art show.Helldorado Days third weekend Tombstone.Features re-enactments,parades, a carnival, and musican street entertainment.

Calf roping at a Southwest

rodeo

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A R I Z O N A T H R O U G H T H E Y E A R 3

W INTER

CHRISTMAS in Arizona iscelebrated in traditional

American sty e, wit ig tsdecorating almost every ui ing an tree. Muc o

the state – the low elevationareas – experiences mild,sunny winters. In areasabove 7,000 ft (2,130 m), theski season stretches frommid-December to early April.

OVEMBER

Yuma Colorado River Crossing Balloon Festiva

(late Nov) Yuma. More than50 hot air balloons fill thesky. Food, entertainment,and fireworks are part of theevening ce e rations. Wahweap Festival of Lights (last Saturday Page.Decorate oats anhouseboats are paraded aftersundown, illuminating the waters of Lake Powell.

ECEMBER

La Fiesta de Tumacacori irst wee end Tumacacori.

Festival held on missiongrounds to celebrate theNative American heritage of the upper Santa Cruz Valley.C ristmas City (late

Nov–Dec) Prescott. Parades,

musica events, open ouses,and shopping opportunitiesa oun in Arizona’s o icia“C ristmas City.”Fourth Avenue Street Fair ear y Dec Tucson. Artists,

food vendors, live music,sidewalk performers, kids’entertainment, and funactivities for all.Festiva of Lig ts (second

Sat Se ona. Ta e part in t elighting of 6,000 luminariasin T aquepaque’s courtyar s,and enjoy carolers, musiciansan ancers in t is Spaniss opping center.

UBLIC OLIDAYS

New Year (Jan 1)Martin Luther King Jr

Day (third Mon in Jan)Presidents’ Day

third Mon in FebEaster Sunday (variable)El Cinco de Mayo

(May 5)Memorial Day

ast Mon in May Independence Day

(Jul 4)Pioneer Day

(Jul 24 – Utah)

Labor Day (first Mon in Sep)

Columbus Day second Mon in Oct

Veterans Day (Nov 11) T an sgiving

(fourth Thu in Nov)Christmas Day Dec 25

Lon on Bri ge Days(late Oct) Lake HavasuCity. Annua ce e rationcommemorates t e e i-cation of the bridge with a

para e, concerts, an aRenaissance Festival.

ANUARY

Fiesta Bowl Festival &Para e (Dec 31 and New Year’s Day) Phoenix. Parade,street party, an co ege oot-a at t e Arizona State

University Sun Devil Stadium.Southern Arizona Square

and Round Dance &Clogging Festival mid-JanTucson. The festival attractsthousands of dancers.FBR Open Go Tournament (late Jan–early Feb) Scotts a e. PGA’sannua go tournament.Pow Wow – Gem &Mineral Show ate

Jan–early Feb) uartzsite.

Largest and oldest of eightgem and mineral shows heldduring January and February.Scottsdale Cele ration of F ne Art mid-Jan–late Mar Scottsdale. Watch art beingcreate as over 100 artists work in studios set upor t e event.

Chrysler Classic Jan or Fe Tucson. This PGA tourna-

ment attracts top players.

EBRUARY

Tu ac Festiva of t e Artsearly Feb) Tu ac. An impor-ant arts and crafts festival.Si ver Spur Ro eo (first weekend) Yuma. Featuresarts an cra ts, ro eo, an Yuma’s iggest para e. Tucson Gem & Mineral Show mid-Fe Tucson.Open to visitors. One of the

biggest gem and mineralshows in the US.La Fiesta de los Vaqueroslate Feb Tucson. Ro eo

an ot er cow oy events,plus the world’s largestnon-motorize para e.Flagstaff Winterfest (monthong F agsta . CompetitiveNordic and Alpine skiing, dogsled races, stargazing and

concerts, and family activities.

Saguaro cactus illuminated by

C ristmas ig ts

Skiers riding a chair lift outside Flagstaff





Long before the appearance of the Spanish in the 1500s, theSouthwest was inhabited by a

varie ty o Native populations.Groups of hunters are believed tohave walke to the region y crossing the Bering Straits over alan ri ge that once joine Asia

with North America aroun25,000–35,000 years ago.

The first Native Americanpeoples o this region are knownas Paleo-Indians. Skilled hunterso mammoths an other la rgePleistocene animals, the Paleo-Indiansroamed the area in small groupsetween 10,000 an 8,000 BC. As the

large mammals died out, they turnedto hunting small game an gatheringroots and berries. These hunter-atherers are calle the Archaic

Indians. Anthropologists believesettle arming societies appearegradually as the population grew, andthat new crops and farmingtechniques were introduced by migrants an tra ers rom Mexicoaround 800 BC, when corn first beganto e cultivate in the region. Amongthe early farmers were the Basket-makers, name or the inely wrought

baskets they wove. Part of theearly Ancestral Pue loan,or Anasazi, culture, these peopleare thought to have l ive inextended family groups, inpithouse wellings. By aroun AD 500, large villages, or pueblos,

egan to evelop in the area.

These usually centered arounda big pithouse that was usedor communal or religious

purposes – the orerunner o theceremonial kiva (see pp36–7),

which is still use to ay y thedescendants of the Ancestral Puebloansto hol religious ceremonies.

By AD 700, there were three main

cultures in the region: the Hohokam,Mogollon, and the AncestralPuebloan. These were sophisticatedagricultural societies that developee icient an innovative techniques toutilize the desert’s limited resources.The Mogollon were known ortheir pottery, and were one of theirst groups to a just to an agrarianlifestyle. The Hohokam farmedCentral an Southern Arizonaetween 300 BC and AD 1350, and

their irrigation systems enabled themto grow two crops a year.


10,000 BC

10,000 BC Arrival of Paleo-Indians. A nomadic people, they huntedbig game across the relatively temperate grass an s o Arizona

Kachina

doll

1,000 BC5,000 BC

00 BC Corn arrives romMexico. Start of agriculture,although the semi-nomadic

quest for food predominates

6,000 BC Appearance of Arc aic In ians, s i esmall-game hunters andtool makers

Papago Indian woman from Pima County, Arizona, 1903

tone spear point

500 BC Beans andsquash are grown,

agriculture expands

300 BCHohokamcivilization inCentra anSouthern Arizona

TIMELINE

200 BC Basket-ma ers in FourCorners region

AD 1

I S O R Y O F

A R I Z O N A

HE STORY OF ARIZONA’S uman history has been played out

against a dramatic and hostile landscape. Despite the arid

conditions, Native civilizations have lived here for thousands

of years. Over the centuries, they have adjusted to the Hispanic

co onizers o t e 17t an 18t centuries, an t e Ang o-Americans

of the 19th and 20th. Each of these has molded the state’s history.



THE HAUNTINGLY BEAUTIFUL and ela orate ruins leftehind by the Ancestral Puebloan people are a

key factor in the hold that this prehistoric culture hasover the public imagination. Also known as “Anasazi,”a name coined by the Navajo meaning “AncientEnemy Ancestor,” today they are more accurately known as the Ancestral Puebloans, and are seen asthe ancestors of today’s Pueblo peoples.

The first Ancestral Puebloans are thought to havesettle at Mesa Ver e see pp118–19) in around AD550, where they lived in pithouses. By around AD 800they had developed masonry skills and began building

housing complexes using sandstone. From AD 1100 to1300, impressive levels of craftsmanship were reachedin weaving, pottery, jewelry, and tool-making.


Ceramics , such as this bowl, show the artistry of the Ancestral Puebloans. Pottery is just one of

many ancient artifacts on show in museums in the region.

Jackson Stairway

in Chaco Canyonis evidence of the engineering skills of the Ancestral Puebloans. They also built networks of roads betweentheir communities and extensive irrigation systems.

Tools of various types were skillfully shaped from stone,wood, and bone. The Ancestral Puebloans did not work metal, yet they managed to produce such beautiful artifacts

as baskets, pottery,and jewelry.

The Ancestral Puebloans

The blue corn growing on this Hopi Reservation

today is a similar plant tothat grown by Ancestral

Puebloans. They were also skilled at utilizing

the medicinal properties of plants, including

cottonwood bark, whichcontains a painkiller.

Drills

Bone awl

Needle

Kivas are round pit-like rooms dug into

t e groun an roo e with beams and earth.



T H E H I S T O R Y O F A R I Z O N A 3 7

THE P UEBLO P EOPLE

By AD 1300 t e Ancestra Pue oans a

abandoned many of their cities and mi-rate to areas w ere new centers

emerged. Theories on why this occurredinc u e a 50-year roug t; t e strainthat a larger population placed on thedesert’s limited resources; and a lengthy period of social upheaval, perhaps stimu-lated by increasing trade with tribesas far away as central Mexico. Mostarc eo ogists agree t at t e AncestraPuebloans did not disappear but live

on to ay in Pue oan escen ants w otrace t eir origins to Mesa Ver e,Chaco, and other sacred ancestral sites.

CHACO C ANYON ’S P UEBLO BONITO

At Chaco Canyon (see pp112–13) the largest“great house” ever built was Pueblo Bonito with more than 00 rooms and 40 kivas One current theory is that these structuresdid not house populations but were, in fact,public buildings for commerce and cere-monial gatherings. The lives of the AncestralPuebloans were short, barely 35 years, andas harsh as the environment in which they lived. Their diet was poor, and arthritis anddental problems were common. Womenoften showed signs of osteoporosis orbrittle bones as early as their first childbirth.

The iva was the religious and ceremonial center of Ancestral Puebloan life. Still used by modern Pueblo Indians, a kiva usually had no windows and the only access was through a hole in the

roof. Small kivas were used by a single family unit, while largekivas were designed to accommodate the whole community.

Petroglyphs were often used by

Ancestral Puebloans as astronomical markers

for the different seasons. This one was found at the Petrified

Forest National Park (see p67)

ERE TO FIND

NCESTRAL

UEBLOAN RUINS

Navajo NationaMonument see p104 Canyon de Chelly National Monument see pp106–9)Hovenweep NationalMonument see p110 ;Chaco CultureNational HistoricalPar see pp112–13Mesa Verde NationalPark see pp118 –19 .

ainstaking excavation at an Ancestral

uebloan kiva in Chaco Canyon

Pueblo Bonito featuresmany examples of themasonry skills used by the Puebloan peoples.



A NCIENT C ULTURES

By aroun AD 800, the Ancestra lPuebloans began to build elaborateceremonial centers, such as Chaco

anyon see pp112 –13), an to movepueblos off open mesa tops to cliff recesses in canyons such as Mesa Verde(see pp118–19). Their num ers startediminishing around 1250. ChacoCanyon was a an one a out 1275,and Mesa Verde by 1300. By 1350,there was virtually no trace o the Ancestral Pue loans on the ColoradoPlateau. Soon a ter, the Hohokams anthe Mogollons became extinct. Expertstheorize that a com ination o a longrought an social unrest cause them

to break up into smaller groups that were easier to sustain. However, thesegroups may not have vanished entirely.I t is el ieve that the Hopi arethe escen ants of the AncestralPue loans , an that the Pima an

Tohono O’odham trace their ancestry tothe Hohokam (see pp22–3).

HE AVAJO HE A PACHE

The Navajo and Apache originated in the Atha ascan culture o Cana a an Alaska. The Nava jo moved southbetween 1200 and 1400, while the


Apache are thought to have arrived inthe late 15th century. The Navajo werehunters who took to herding sheeprought y the Spanish. The Apache

groups – Jicarilla, Mescalero, Chiricahua,and Western Apache – continued theirnoma ic li estyle. They were skill ul warriors, especially the Chiricahua of Southern Arizona, whose lea ersCochise and Geronimo fought Hispanicand Anglo settlers to deter them fromcolonization in the late 19th century.

RRIVAL OF THE PANISH

In 1539, the Franciscan priest Fray Marcos de Niza led the first Spanishexpe ition into the Southwest. He wasinspire y hopes o in ing gol , anthe desire to convert the Nativeinhabitants to Christianity. A year later,Francisco Vasquez de Coronado arrived with 330 soldiers, 1,000 Indian allies,an more than 1,000 hea s o livestock.

He conquered Zuni Pueblo, and spenttwo years traversing Arizona, New Mexico, Texas, and Kansas in searchof the legendary city of gold, Cibola.His rutal t reatment o the Pue lopeople sowed the seeds for the PuebloRevolt 140 years later.

Engraving by Norman Price of Coronado setting out to discover a legendary kingdom of gold in 1540

TIMELINE

1000 1 0014001200800

600 Earliest date forettlement of Acoma and

Hopi mesas

00 Large pueblos such asChaco Canyon underconstruction

1020 Chaco Canyonis at its height asa tra ing ancultural center

1250 Ancient sites aremysteriously abandoned; new

sma er pue os are esta -lished along the Rio Grande

1300 Mesa Verde abandoned

1400 Navajo and Apac e migrate

from Canada to theSouthwest

1539 ray Marcos de Nizaheads firstexpedition to

t e Sout west

1598 Juan deOñate founds

permanent co ony in New Mexico



THE MISSIONS

In t e ate 17t century, Jesuit missionary Father Eusebio Kino lived alongside andesta is e a rapport wit t e Pima peo-ple of Southern Arizona. He initiated the Jesuit practice o ringing gi ts o ivestocan see s or new crops, inc u ing w eat.Those Natives involved in the missionary program escaped forced labor. Kino

inspired the Natives livingsouth of Tucson, at a place

called Bac, to begin work on the first mis-

sion t ere, w ic aterbecame the South-

west’s most beautifulmission c urc , San

Xavier del Bac (see pp92–3 . W en Kinodied in 1711, there

were around 20 mis-sions across the region.

T H E H I S T O R Y O F A R I Z O N A

T E C LONY OF EW MEXICO

In 1598, Juan de Oñate arrived inthe Southwest with 00 settlers, and set

up a permanent colony called NewMexico. The colony included all of thepresent- ay states o New Mexico an Arizona, as well as parts of Colorado,Utah, Neva a, an Cali ornia.

Spanish attempts to conquer theIndian Pueblos led to hard and bloody attles but, despite the harsh con-itions, more settlers, priests, an

soldiers began to arrive in the area,etermine to su ue the Natives, anto suppress their religious practices. As the Spanish colonists sprea out,

they seized Pueblo farmlands ancreate huge ranches or themselves. APueblo uprising began on August 9,1680, resulting in the deaths of 375colonists and 21 priests, with theremaining 2,000 settlers riven southacross the Rio Grande. In 1 92,however, Don Diego e Vargasreclaimed Santa Fe, re-establishingSpanish control o the lan . By the late

Illustration of the 1 80 Pueblo Indian Revolt

Father Eusebio Kino

18th century, the Spanish wereattempting to extend their power westwar to California. Their first Arizona settlement was at Tu ac, near

ucson, in 1752.The beginning of the end of Spanishcontrol came with the LouisianaPurchase o 1803. The French emperor,Napoleon, sold Louisiana, an enormousarea o a out 828,000 sq miles(2.2 million sq km) of land, to therecently orme Unite States. Lan -hungry Americans began a rapi westwar expansion towar the

orders of Spanish-controlled Mexico.Compoun ing Spain’s pro lems ,Mexico’s fight for independence beganin 1810, ut it was not until 1821 thatindependence was finally declared.The newly independent Mexicans were glad to do business with their Anglo-American neigh ors, who

rought much-nee e tra e.

1650 1700 1750

Juan de Oñate

1680 PuebloRevolt drives

Spanis out o t e

Southwest

1691 Fat er Kinoestablishes first mission at

Tumacacori, Arizona

1692 Diego de Vargasretakes Santa Fe

1711 Deat oFather Kino; 20missions inSout ern

Arizona

1752 Firsturopean

sett ement in Arizona setup at Tubac

1775 Tucsonfounded. Juan

Batista de Anza reaches

San Francisco

177 TwoFranciscanpriests are

first to travelt e O

Spanish Trail

1783Constructionbegins on

ission an

Xavier del Bac

1803 LouisanaPurc ase

extends USboundary toew Mexico

border

Anza

1800




1825 875

TIMELINE

1821 Mexicoec ares

independencefrom Spain

its own. In 1864, more than 8,000Navajo were orce o their lan , anmade to march “The Long Walk” of 370miles 595 km east to a reservation atBosque Re on o in New Mexico. Many ied during harsh weather en route,

an many more rom isease at thereservation. In 1868, the Navajo weregiven 20,000 sq miles 51,800 sq kmacross Arizona, New Mexico, ansouthern Utah.

In 18 5, the US acquired Texas and, when Mexico resisted further moves, itset off the Mexican War. The Treaty oGua alupe-Hi algo en e the con lict

in 18 8, and gave the US the MexicanCession comprising Cali ornia, Utah,Nevada, Northern Arizona, and parts of New Mexico, Wyoming, an Colora ofor $18.25 million. In 1854, the UnitedStates ought Southern Arizona throughthe Gadsden Purchase for $10 million.Finally, in 1863, the US government rec-ognized Arizona as a separate territory,an rew the state l ine that existsbetween it and New Mexico today.

In the 1870s, vast areas o Arizonabecame huge cattle and sheep ranches,an y the 1880s, our major railroa s

19001850

HE A RRIVAL OF A GLO-A MERICANS

The first non-Spanish people of European descent, or Anglo-Americans,to arrive in the Southwest were“mountain men” an ur trappers in theearly 1800s. They learned survival skills

rom Native t ri es, marr ie Nat ive women, and usually spoke more thanone Native language as well as Spanish. While the Hispanic and the Natives

were happy to tra e with the Anglos,they were, at the same time, angeredby the new settlers who built ranchesand even towns on lands to which they ha no legal right.

AND SPUTES HE NDIAN RS

After the Civil War (1861–65), reports of land and mineral wealth in the west fil-tere ack east, an Anglo settlementin the west increased rapidly. By the18 0s, the US government hadembarked on a vigorous expansion

westwar , with settlers accompanie y United States’ soldiers. The primary pro lem they encountere were theconstant raids by Natives, dubbed “theIndian problem.” The US cavalry countere with rai s an massacres o

A group of cowboys roping a steer, painted by C. M. Russell (1897)

824 Republic of Mexicostablished

1846–48 USexpansionism leadsto war with Mexico

1848 Mexican territory ceded to US under Treaty

of Guadalupe-Hidalgo

1854 The USets Southern

Arizona wit t eGadsdenPurchase

18 4 Colonel Kit Carson conductsa campaign against t e Navajo atCanyon de Chelly. The survivorsare forcibly marched to NewMexico on “T e Long Wa ”

1869 John Wesley Powell leads first US

expe ition t roug t eGrand Canyon

1881Gunfight

at OKCorral

188 In ian Wars end withthe surrender of

eronimo

1901 GrandCanyon Rai way brings tourists to

the region

1912 Arizonaa mitte to

Union,becomes the

48th state

Geronimo



T H E H I S T O R Y O F A R I Z O N A 4 1

20001925 1975

PACHE W RRIORS

T e noma ic Apac e ive in sma communities insoutheastern Arizona, and southern and northwesternNew Mexico. Seeing them as a threat to the

settlement of these territories, the US military wasdetermined to wipe them out. The hanging of one of Chief Cochise’s relatives in 1861 instigated a war thatasted more than a decade until Apache reservations

were established in 1872. In 1877, a new leader, Victorio,aunc e a t ree-year guerri a war against t e sett erst at en e on y wit is eat . T e most amous Apac eleader, Geronimo, led a campaign against the Mexicansand Anglos from 1851 until he surrendered in 188 .He was sent to a reservation in Florida.

Apache leader Geronimo, in a fierce pose in this picture from 188

The Hoover Dam was constructeetween 1931 and 1936, but by the

19 0s even that proved inadequate.Soon after, Glen Canyon Dam wascompleted in 19 3, flooding an area of reat beauty. The dam created the huge

reservoir o Lake Powell, estroying a

num er of ancient Native ruins.The issue of water continues to be a

serious pro lem in the Southwest, anprojects to harness water from availablesources are un er e ate.

THE SOUTHWEST T DAY

Arizona’s economy continues to prosper,and its population is still growing,

augmente y thousan s o winter residents from thenorth, or “snowbirds.” An ever-increasing number of tourists

visit the state’s scenic anhistoric wonders, preserved innational parks, monuments,and recreational areas. Set upin the early 20th century, theparks highlight conservationissues an Native cultures, allof which will help guard

Ar izona’s precious heri tageor generations to come.

1931–3Hoover Damconstructed

1974 Central ArizonaProject initiated to harvest water from the Colorado

River for thirsty Phoenix

1996 Bill Clinton signsNavajo-Hopi Land

ispute Sett ement Act,ending violent conflicts

between tribes

2000–2003 Forest firesdevastate large tracts of tim er in Eastern anNorthern Arizona

crosse the region. These ecame acatalyst for new industries in theregion. Arizona was grante statehooin 1912, and in the years leading up toan ollowing Worl War I, the stateexperienced an economic boomecause o its rich mineral resources.

THE DEMAND FOR TER

As the region’s population expan e ,the supply of water became one of themost pressing issues, an a series oenormous dams were constructed.Dam- and road-building projects, inturn, benefited the region’s economy an attracte even more settlers.

GlenCanyon

am

Mining boom prospector

1950

1963Opening of

the Glenanyon Dam





A R I Z O N A & T H EO U R O R N E R S

A R EA B Y A R E A

R O D U C I R I Z O

T H E O U R N E R 44–45

G R A N D C A N YO N &

O R T H E R I Z O 46–73

H E N I O U T H E R N A R I Z O N A 74–99

T F C R E R 00–119



A R I Z O N A & T H E F O U R C O R N E R S A R E A B Y A R E A

8

10

17

66

60

89

93

64

87

9585

79

72

86

17

89

40

40

89

93

60

10

8

8

10

60

Intro ucing& t e Four

T

HIS IS A REGION o

eauty. In Arizoneerily eauti ul, Sono y the important citithe lan scape rises taroun Se ona to gran Payson. Beyoncut by the almost unGrand Canyon see p

east, the Four Corneplace in the USA wh

Utah, Colora o, ArizMexico – meet at aominate y ram

such as Monument Valley an ancient rthat stan as hauntiepitaphs in a lonelycaptivating lan scap

0 km

0 miles

50

50

K EY

Interstate

Major highway

Highway

ver

State boundary

Lake Powell in Glen Ca

Nationa Recreation Ar

Dramatic and magnificent expanse of the Grand Canyon



I N T R O D U C I N G A R I Z O N A & T H E F O U R C O R N E R S 4 5

666

6

550

160

666

64

550

37144

64

160

160

191

160

163

191

145

160

264

264

264

87 6

191

40

7

180

70

77

191

2

40

10

80

80

191

191

60

60

191

10

dominating the skyline of downtown Phoenix

nal andly directly toed by Amtrak

nd buses.d option and the

ntained highways. y I- 40 and I-10

the main car is essential for

rners; a high-clearanceded for traveling many

onal roads.

E AL

• Where to stay pp124–31

• Where to eat pp13 – 1







A R I Z O N A & T H E F O U R C O R N E R S A R E A B Y A R E A4 8

GRAND CANYON is one of the world’s great natural wonders and an instantly recognizable symbol of the

Southwest. The canyon runs through Grand CanyonNational Park (see pp50 –51), and is 277 miles (446 km)long, an average of 10 miles (16 km) wide, and around5,000 ft (1,500 m) deep. It was formed over a period of sixmillion years by the Colorado River, whose fast-flowing waters sliced their way through the Colorado Plateau(see p15), which includes the gorge and most of Northern Arizona and the Four Corners region. The plateau’sgeological vagaries have defined the river’s twisted course,and exposed vast cliffs and pinnacles that are ringed by

rocks of different colors, variegated hues of limestone,sandstone, and shale (see pp52 –3). The canyon is spectac-ular by any standard, but its beauty is in the ever-shiftinglight patterns, and the colors that the rocks take on – bleached white at midday, but red and ocher at sunset.

Gran Canyon 1

Grandview Point At 7,400 ft (2,250 m),

randview Point is one of the highest places on the South

Rim, the canyon’s southernedge. It is one of the stops

along Desert View Drive (seep51). The point is thought to

be the spot from where the panish had their first glimpse

of the canyon in 1540.

Havasu Canyon The 10-mile (16-km) trail to the beautiful Havasu Falls is a

popular hike. The land is owned

by the Havasupai tribe, whooffer horseback rides and guidedtours into the canyon.

Mule Trip Convoy A mule ride is a popular method of exploring the canyon’s narrow trails.



G R A N D C A N Y O N 4 9

ISITORS’ CHECKLIST

Road map B2. k Gran

Canyon Airport, Tusayan.

£Grand Canyon Railway

rom Williams. c rom

Flagstaff. n V s tor Center,

Canyon View Information Plaza,

south of Mather Point, AZ, 928

638-7888. ∑ www.nps.gov/grca

# Sout Rim: year roun .

North Rim: summer only.

¢ Nort Rim: mi -Oct–mi -

May: closed by snow. & 7 partial. 8 - = 0

North Rim The North Rim receives roughly one-tenth the number of visitors of the South Rim. While less accessible, it is amore peaceful destin-ation offering a sense of unexplored wilder-ness. It has a range of hikes, such as the North Kaibab Trail, a steep descent down to Phantom Ranch on

the canyon floor.

Phantom Ranch This lodging (see p125) offers the only roofed accommodation on the canyon floor. It is reserved for guests taking the overnight

mule trip, but hikers and rafters can dine there and stay at the nearby campground.

right Angel Trail Used by both Native Americans

and early settlers, the Bright Angel Trail follows a natural route along

one of the canyon’s enormous fault lines. It is an appealing option for day hikers because,unlike some other trails in the area, it offers some shade and

several seasonal water sources.

Y VAPAI P OINT AT

THE SOUTH R IMSituated 5 miles (8 km) north of thecanyon’s South Entrance, along astretch of the Rim Trail, is YavapaiPoint. Its observation station offers

spectacular views of the canyon, anda viewing panel identifies several of the central canyon’s landmarks.




Grand Canyon National Park

Kolb Studio Built in 1904 by brothers Emery and Ellsworth Kolb,who photographed the canyon extensively, the Kolb Studio is now a National Historic Site and book store.

Bright Angel Trail starts f

South Rim. It is well maintaidemanding. It descends

canyon and connects with thKaibab Trail up on the No

Hermit Road A free shuttle bus runs along this route to the Hermits Rest viewpoint during the summer. It is closed to private vehicles March to November.

Grand Canyon Lodge Perched above the canyon a Angel Point, the Grand Canhas rooms and a number ofoptions (see pp55, 125 & 13

North Kaibab Trail followsBright Angel Creek bed, past

n

n

M

M∆

∆

∆

r

M

A ORLD HERITAGE SITE, Grand Canyon National Parkis locate entirely with

park covers 1,904 sq milesof the canyon itself, whichempties into the Colorado,to Lake Mead (see p72) an

won protective status as aafter Theodore Roosevelt vit should be kept intact forone great sight which everThe National Park was cre

The park has two main e

South Rims of the canyon.of the park receives the mo very congested during the



G R A N D C A N Y O N 5 1

Colorado River

d and rain, the Coloradoaped the Grand Canyon. river winds for 277 mileskm) through the canyon.

Point Imperial is the highestpoint on the North Rim at8,803 ft (2,683 m), and offers views of Mt. Hayden and the

now sits next to t e site.

National Park area

M

∆

∆

∆

∆

∆

Y

Major highway

Park boundary

Rivers

Highway

Trai route

Gas station

Ranger stat on

Campground/RV

Picnic area

Visitor information

Viewpoint

5

5

SHIVITS

PLATEAU

AIBAB

PLATEAU

COCONINO

PLATEAU

Desert View DriveThis route connects Grand anyon Village with Desert

View, and offers breathtaking views of both the central

and eastern canyon.



T e Geology of t e Grand Canyon

GRAND CANYON S multicolored layers of rockprovide the best record of the Earth’s formation

anywhere in the world. Each stratum of rockreveals a different period in the Earth’s geologicalhistory beginning with the earliest, the PrecambrianEra, which covers geological time up to 570 million

years ago. Almost two billion years of history havebeen recorded in the canyon, although the mostramatic changes took place relatively recently, fiveo six million years ago, when the Colorado Riverbegan to carve its path through the canyon walls.The sloping nature of the Kaibab Plateau has led

o increased erosion in some parts of the canyon.

R ECORD OF IFEThe fossils found in each layer tell the

story of the development of life onEarth. The oldest layer, the Vishnu

Schist, was formed in the Proterozoicera, when the first bacteria and algae

were just emerging. Later layers werecreated by billions of small marine

creatures whose hard shells eventually built up into thick layers of limestone.

The canyon’s size is awe-inspiring,attracting millions of visitors every year. Pictured here is the North Rim.

An asymmetrical canyon , the Grand Canyon’s North Rim is more eroded than the South Rim. The entire Kaibab Plateau slopes to the south, so rain falling at the North

Rim flows toward the canyon and over the rim, creating deep side canyons and a wide space between the rimand the river.

The Surprise Canyon formation ,a new strata classified by geologists in 1985, can be seen only inremote parts of the canyon. It was formed 335 million years ago.

Canyon

rim

A view of Grand Canyon’s plateau

and South Rim




5

HOW THE C ANYON WAS ORMED

While the Colorado River accounts for the canyon’s depth,its wi t an ormations are t e wor o even greater orces. Win rus ing t roug t e canyon ero es t e imestone ansandstone a few grains at a time. Rain pouring over the canyonrim cuts eep si e canyons t roug t e so ter roc . Per apsthe greatest canyon-building force is ice. Water from rain andsnowme t wor s into crac s in t e roc . W en rozen, it

expands, forcing the rock away from the canyon walls. Thelayers vary in hardness. Soft layers erode quickly into slopedaces. Harder rock resists erosion, leaving sheer vertical faces.

Fish plate fossils are

found in the Kaibab

limestone.

Seedfern

leaf ossils are found

in the Hermit hale layer.

Trilobite fossilsoccur in the canyon’s

Bright Angel hale layer.

The Colorado River changed its course about 5 million years ago. It is thought that it was encompassed

by another, smaller river that flowed through the Kaibab Plateau. The force of the combined waters carved out the deepGrand Canyon.

olorado

iver

Vishnu

Schist

Crack formed by ice and water erosion

Temple Butte

limestone

contains fossils of marine

creatures.

The South Rim of thecanyon lies closer tothe Colorado Riverthan the North Rim.

G R A N D C A N Y O N




P rand Canyon VillageGrand Canyon National Park.

§ 928) 638-7888.7 partial.

Grand Canyon Village has itsroots in the late 19th century.T e extensive ui ing o visitor accommodations started

a ter t e Santa Fe Rai roaopened a branch line hererom Wi iams in 1901, t ougsome ote s a een ui t inthe late 1890s. The FredHarvey Company constructeda clutch of well-designed,attractive buildings. The mostprominent is E Tovar Hote(see p125). Opened in 1905, itis name a ter Spanis

exp orers w o reac e t egorge in 1540. The opi House a so opene in 1905 – a rendition of a traditionalHopi we ing, w ere oca scould sell their craftwork assouvenirs. It was built b y Hopi craftsmen and designed

Sout Rim Most of the Grand Canyon’s4.3 million annual visitorscome to t e Sout Rim, since,unlike the North Rim, it isopen year-round and is easily accessible along Highway 180/64 from Flagstaff see

p64) or Williams. Herm t Road and Desert View Drive(Hwy 64) start at GrandCanyon Village and encom-pass a se ection o t e c oic-est views o t e gorge. HermitRoad is closed to private ve ic es rom Marc to Novem-ber each year but there arefree shuttle buses. Desert View Drive is open all year.

From the village, HermitRoad meanders along theSouth Rim, extending for 8miles (13 km). Its first view-point is Trai view Over oo which provides an overviewo t e canyon an t e win -ing course o t e Brig t AngeTrail. Moving on, Maricopa Point o ers especia y panoramic views of the

canyon but not of the ColoradoRiver, which is more apparentfrom nearby Hopi Point . Atthe en of Hermit Roa liesHermits Rest, where a giftshop, decorated in rustic style,is ocate in yet anot er Mary Colter-designed building. Theonger Desert View Driveruns in t e opposite irection,and covers 26 miles (42 km).

It winds for 12 miles 20 kmbefore reaching randview Point where the Spaniardsmay have had their firstglimpse of the canyon in 1540.

y Mary E. J. Colter. Anex-schoolteacher and trainedarchitect, Colter drew onSouthwestern influences, mix-ing both Native American andHispanic sty es see p21). S eis responsible for many of the

istoric structures t at nowgrace the South Rim,including the 1914 Lookout Studio an Hermits Rest and the rustic 1922 hantom Ranch on thecanyon floor.

Today, GrandCanyon Village hasa wide range of ote s, restaurants,

an stores. It issurprisingly easy toget ost ere sincethe buildings arespread out andiscreetly placed

among woodedareas. The village

GRAND CANYON offers awe-inspiring beauty on a vast scale. The magnificent rock

ormations with towers, cliffs, steep walls, andbuttes recede as far as the eye can see, theirands of colored rock varying in shade as

light changes through the day. The park’smain roads, Hermit Road and Desert View

Drive, both accessible from the South Entrance, overlookthe canyon. Grand Canyon Village is located on the SouthRim and offers a range of facilities. Visitors can alsoenter the park from the north, although this route (Hwy 7) is closed during winter. Walking trails along the North

an South Rims o er staggering views ut, to experi-ence the canyon at its most ascinating, the trails thatgo own towar the canyon loor shoul e explore .

The Bright Angel Trail on the South Rim, an the NorthKai a Trail on the North Rim, escen to the canyonloor, an are tough hikes involving an overnight stop.

Exploring Grand Canyon National Park

Adobe pueblo-style architecture of Hopi House, Grand Canyon Village

Bell near Hermits Rest

is not on y t e starting pointor most o t e mu e tripsthrough the canyon, but

a so t e terminus or t eGrand Canyon Railway.

The interior of the Hermits Rest gift store with

crafts for sale lining the walls



C ALIFORNIA CONDORS

America’s argest ir , t e Ca i ornia con or, as a wingspan o over 9 t 2.7 m . Near y extinct in t e1980s, the last 22 condors were captured for breeding

in captivity. In 199 , the first captive-bred birds were released in Northern Arizona.Today, about 50 condors fly theskies over Northern Arizona.They are frequent visitors tothe South Rim, though visitorsshould not approach or attemptto feed them.

G R A N D C A N Y O N

About 10 miles (1 km) fartheron lie the pueblo remainso Tusayan Ruin , w eret ere is a sma museum with exhibits on AncestralPue loan life. The road

continues on to the stunningoverlook of Desert View .The watchtower here wasColter’s most fanciful creation,its upper oor ecorate with early 20th-centuryHopi mura s. Just east o Gran Canyon

Village is Yavapai Point rom w ere it is possi e tosee Phantom Ranch (see

p125 . This is the only roofedaccommodation availableon the canyon floor, acrossthe Colora o River.

North Rim Stan ing at a out 8,000 t(2,400 m), the North Rim isig er, coo er, an greener

t an t e Sout Rim, witdense forests of ponderosa

pine, aspen, and Douglas fir. Visitors are most likely to spot wildlife such as the mule

eer, Kaibab squirrel, and wild turkey on the North Rim.

T e Rim can e reac e viaHighway 7, off Highway 89A, ending at rand Canyon Lodge see p125& p134 ), where there are visitor services, a camp-

ground, a gas station,restaurant, and a generalstore. Nearby, there is aNational Park informationcenter, which offers maps ot e area. T e Nort Rim anall its facilities are closedmi -Octo er to mi -May,

when it is often snowed in.The North Rim is twice as farfrom the river as the SouthRim, and the canyon really stretches out from the over-looks giving a sense of its10-mile (1 -km) width. Thereare about 30 miles (45 km) of scenic roa s a ong t e NortRim, as we as i ing trai s to

high viewpoints or down tothe canyon floor, particularly the North Kaibab Trai thatlinks to the South Rim’s Bright Angel Trail. The picturesqueCape Royal Drivestarts north of GranCanyon Lo ge antravels 23 miles37 m to Cape

Royal on the

Wa a a P ateau.From ere, severafamous buttes andpeaks can be seen,including WotansThrone and Vishnu Temple.There are also several short walking trails around CapeRoya . A 3-mi e 5- m etourea s to Point Imperia , t ehighest point on the canyon

rim, w i e a ong t e way t e Vista Encantada has delight-u views an picnic ta esoverlooking the gorge.

Bright Angel TrailThis is the most popular ofall Grand Canyon hikingtrails. The Bright Angeltrailhead is at Grand Canyon Village on the South Rim.T e trai egins near t eKolb Studio at the westernen o t e vi age. It t enswitc es ramatica y own

the side of the canyon for 9miles (14 km). The trailcrosses the river over asuspension bridge, ending aittle further on at Phantom

Ranch. There are tworesthouses and a

u y equippecampground alongt e way. It is notadvisable to

attempt t e w o etrip in one ay.Many walk from theSouth Rim to one othe rest stops and

then return up to the Rim.Temperatures at the bottom of the canyon can reach 110°F(43°C) or higher during thesummer. Day i ers s ou ,therefore, carry a quart (just

over a iter o water perperson per hour for summeri ing. Carrying a irst-ai it

is also recommended.

Hikers taking a break on the South Rim’s Bright Angel Trail

Desert View’s stone watchtower,

on Desert View Drive

A pair of California condors

Breathtaking view of Grand Canyon at dusk

Mule deer on the

canyon’s North Rim







A R I Z O N A & T H E F O U R C O R N E R S A R E A B Y A R E A5

IKING

THE MOST POPULAR day hikesin the park involve a

descent into the canyon on we -maintaine trai s, sucas Bright Angel and Hermits

Rest see pp48 –55 . Oncebelow the Rim, these trailso er ever c anging views ot e canyon on t e way own,sometimes passing by steepoverlooks an a few sha erest areas. Visitors arestrongly advised to carry water on these hikes.

For those wanting an easierstro , t ere are re ative y

eve trai s t at o ow t eedge of the canyon. At theSout Rim, t e 13-mi e(21-km) long Rim Trail cane crow e w ere it passes

through the Grand Canyon Village, but provides wonderful solitude and

stunning vistas just a mileaway. At the North Rim, theTransept Trai is an easy1-mile (1.6-km) hike that win s t roug t ic woo s tocome out at various pointsalong the canyon’s edge.

Many hikers consider aRim-to-Rim hike (descendingfrom one Rim and hiking upto the other Rim to bethe ultimate canyon hikingexperience, ut it is a soextreme y eman ing, witmore than 10,000 ft (3,048 m)o a vertica escent anascent over 22 miles (35 km).Brig t Ange to Nort Kai a ,

or the reverse, is the mostpopular Rim-to-Rim route, asit offers the only accessibleriver crossing. Most Rim-to-Rim hikers spend one or twonights at the Bright Angelcampground (advancereservations require .

THE GRAND CANYON S eauty an gran eur, theiversity o activities it o ers, an the availa ility o

top-notch tours an out itters, have ma e it one o themost popular out oor a venture sites in the worl .Many o the classic Gran Canyon experiences, such asmule an helicopters tours, Rim-to-Rim hikes an

whitewater ra t trips, rate as once-in-a-li etime a ven-tures for many people. But not all Grand Canyonadventures involve white-knuckle thrills. There areactivities geared for every interest and physical ability,from birdwatching to ranger-led interpretive walksalong the North and South Rims, to a host of educa-

tional programs lasting an hour or a week. If there isanything to stymie the would-be adventurer, it is only the sheer number of experiences to choose from.

C ANYON IKING PS

Over 400 peop e require me ica

evacuations rom the canyon

each year. Most are healthy

people under 40 who are

dehydrated or exhausted.

• Drink plenty of water and/or

e ectro yte iqui s as you i e,

even if you don’t feel thirsty.

• Eat often, even while you are

i ing. Hig -car an sa ty

foods are good.

• Hats, sun protective clothing,

and sunscreen are essential.

• Do not attempt to hike to the

ottom o the canyon and bac

in a single day.

Hikers studying a map of the Grand Canyon

Camping out in Grand Canyon

National Park

Grand Canyon Adventures

B ACKCOUNTRY C AMPING

N THE GRAND CANYON park,ac country camping exists

primarily to facilitate multi-day hikes into the canyon. In fact,demand far outpaces supply,

so visitors should try andreserve camp spaces early ithey are contemplatingspending a few nights in thecanyon. Reservations can emade up to four months ina vance. I no camp spacesare avai a e or t e time o visit, they could considersigning up for a guided hike with companies that pre-book

campsites. Grand Canyon Hi es an S y Is an Tre sare two of the many tour com-panies in the Grand Canyont at o er t ree- to seven- ay hikes, both for beginners andexperience i ers.



BIRDWATCHING

IRDWATCHING IS a popu arpastime at the Grand

Canyon or ot serious ancasual birders. Hawks anda eag es can e seen

gliding silently above thecanyon. Other species, suchas canyon wrens, pygmy nuthatch, mountainchickadee, and red crossbill,are quite tame, and can beseen along the tourist trails. A so, many peop e visit t e

Sout Rim or a g impse o t erare California condors. Fort ose w o want a more in-depth experience, birdwatch-ing is a major component of many of the outdoor pro-grams offered by the Grand Canyon Field Institute.

G R A N D C A N Y O N 5

OUN AIN IKING

A THOUGH MOUNTAIN i esare not allowed on hiking

trails within the NationalPark, there are several scenic

roads – both paved andunpaved – in the park on which mountain bikes arepermitted. At the North Rim,just outsi e t e par , t eKaibab National Forest offersmountain i ers t e 18-mi e29- m ong Rain ow Rim

Trail and the Arizona Trail,oth of which follow the

Rim and offer superb views

of the canyon. Both trailshave varie sections rankeeasy to difficult. scape A ventures offers five-day mountain i e a ventureson the North Rim.

UL RIPS

INCE THEIR inception in 1904,mu e ri es ave een one

of the most popular of all

Gran Canyon a ventures. Although thousands of peopleundertake these trips each year, they should not be takenlightly – this is a demandingadventure. Run by Xanterra Parks & Resorts, the trips fillearly and may be booked upto two years in a vance. T etrip takes two days, descend-ing Brig t Ange Trai , wit

an overnig t stay an earty steak dinner at PhantomRanc see p125 & p135 . T eride offers ever-changingpanoramas of the canyon inoth directions. Guides stop

frequently to ensure everyoneis drinking water, as dehydra-tion is a common and some-times serious problem. Ridersmust be at least .7 ft (1.38 m)

tall, weigh less than 200 lbs91 g , un erstan uent

Eng is , an e una rai oheights. One-day trips thatgo only half-way into thecanyon before returningare also available.

Those wanting a tameradventure can opt for shorttrail rides on horseback, whichare offered by Apache Stables

at t e Sout Rim, just outsi et e par ’s oun ary. For alonger horseback adventure,contact t e Havasupai ourist Enterprise, w ic

offers one-day and multi-day adventures into the eautifuHavasu Canyon (see p48).

Mule rides into Grand Canyon National Park – a popular adventure

EDUCA IONAL OURS

HE GRAND CANYON is anatural classroom for the

study of desert and canyonecology, history, archeology,

geology, and natural history.One of the most accessiblesources of short educationalcourses are ranger-led day-programs o ere y t eNational Park. More in-depth,sing e an mu ti- ay pro-grams are o ere y t erenowned Grand CanyonField Institute. Begun in 1993,the institute’s programs

include wilderness studies,ecology, and photography.The Museum of Northern Arizona also offers a variety o e ucationa tours, as onumerous commercial hikingtour operators suc asDiscovery Treks.

Mountain bikers in Toroweap Valley, Grand Canyon National Park



A IR OURS

A AIRPLANE trip over theGran Canyon o ers a

unique opportunity to viewthe vastness of the canyon,and is a particularly good

option for those with limitedmobility. Tours leave hourly on eman from the GranCanyon Airport. Air Grand Canyon o ers tours in sma ,high-wing aircraft that seative an provi e everyone a

win ow seat. Gran Canyon Airlines offer tours in largertwin-engine aircra t t at seat19. Helicopters, which fly at

just 500 ft (150 m), comparedto 900 ft 275 m for air-planes, offer an even moreintimate look at the canyon.Severa operators, suc as Airstar Helicopters, offer25–50 minute e icopter toursover the canyon.

T e aircra t are not a oweto enter t e canyon wit in t eNational Park, but full-day

trips into the Havasu Canyon(fly in, explore, and fly out) with an optional horsebackride to the Havasu Falls areoffered by Papillon Grand Canyon He icopters.


Dory running on the Specter Rapids, Colorado River

A helicopter conducts an aerial tour of the Grand Canyon, offering breathtaking views

IVER RIPS

ERHAPS NO adventure puts visitors in touc wit t e

essence and natural beauty of the canyon as much as a pad-dling trip down the ColoradoRiver. The classic river trip,offered by outfits such asCanyon Exp orationsOARS, and Arizona Ra t A ventures is un erta en in

mo erate-size ru er ra tst at seat our to seven peop e,and are powered by a highly traine gui e at t e oars.Severa ra ts usua y ma e t erun together, with one or tworeserved for provisions. A full-

river trip starts at Lees Ferry and covers 280 miles (451 km)over 14–16 days, taking out atDiamond Creek. Stretches of quiet water are intersperse with 4 of America’s mostimpressive w itewater runs.T e ra ts stop every nig t topitch camp and most touroperators pri e t emse ves onproviding excellent meals.

They also offer hikes into thecanyons on the sides, sotourists can view the flora andfauna, and waterfalls in thearea. Also available are half-river trips lasting five to nine

RY RIPS

W HEN JOHN Wes ey Powebecame the first man to

run t e canyon, e i so insturdy open boats, and many believe that this still is the best way to experience the river. Although similar in many

ways to rubber rafts, doriesare smaller, seating just threeto five people. Many peopleconsi er t e ory experienceto e a quieter an moreintimate canyon experience.

days that begin or end atPhantom Ranch and requirehiking in or out of the canyon.Some tour companies, such asHatc River Expe itionsoffer trips in larger, motorizedra ts t at seat 15, an can run

the canyon in just seven days.



G R A N D C A N Y O N 1

K AYAK S UPPORT TRIPS

FOR SKILLED paddlers, nothingbeats the experience of

running the river under theirown power, in w itewaterkayaks. The challenge is thatpar -issue permits to run t eriver, which are given tosing e pa ers or groups,

ave a current waiting ist oalmost 20 years (the park

ACKCOUNTRY AMPING

Grand Canyonikes

7010 Bader Road,Flagstaff, AZ 86001.

§ 877 506-6233,

(928) 779-1614.

∑ www.

grandcanyonhikes.com

Sky Island Treks928, S 7th Ave,

ucson,

AZ 85701.§ 520 622-6966.

∑ www.skyislandtreks.

com

OUNTAINIKING

scape A ventures8221, W Chareston,

#101, Las Vegas,NV 89117.

§ (800) 596-2953,

(702) 596-2953.

∑ www.

escapeadventures.com

DUCATIONAL URS

iscovery Treks

6890, E Sunrise Suite120-108, Tucson,

AZ 85750.

§ (888) 256-8731,

(520) 404-1151.

∑ www.

discoverytreks.com

Grand CanyonFie InstitutePO Box 399,

Gran Canyon, AZ 86023.

§ 800 858-2808.

∑ www.grandcanyon.

org/fieldinstitute

Museum oNort ern Arizona 3101 N Fort Valley Rd,

Flagsta , AZ 86001.

§ 928-774-5211.

∑ www.musnaz.org

M ULE TRIPS

Apache Stables

PO Box 158,Gran Canyon, AZ 86023.

§ (928) 638-2891.

∑ www.apac esta es.

com

Havasupai Tourist EnterpriseSupa , AZ 86435.

§ 928 448-2121.

Xanterra Par s &Resorts14001 E Illiff, Ste 600,

Aurora, CO 80014.

§ (888) 297-2757.

∑ www.

grandcanyonlodges.com

URS

Air Grand Canyon

PO Box 3399,Grand Canyon,

AZ 86023.

§ (800) 247-4726,

(928) 638-2686.

∑ www.

airgrandcanyon.com

Airstar HelicoptersPO Box 3379,

Grand Canyon,

AZ 86023.

§ 800 962-3869,

(928) 638-2622.

∑ www.a rstar.com

Gran Canyon Air inesPO Box 3038, National

Par Airport, Gran

Canyon, AZ 86023.

§ (800) 528-2413,

928) 638-2359.

∑ www.

grandcanyonairlines.com

Papillon Grand CanyonHelicoptersPO Box 455,

Gran Canyon,

AZ 86023.

§ (800) 528-2418,

(928) 638-2419.

∑ www.papillon.com

R IVER TRIPS

Arizona Raft Adventures4050 E Hunt ngton Dr,

Flagstaff,

AZ 86004.

§ 800 786-7238,

(928) 526-8200.

∑ www.azra t.com

Canyon

ExplorationsPO Box 310

Flagstaff,

AZ 86002.

§ (800) 654-0723,

928 774-4559.

∑ www.canyonx.com

Hatch River Expe itionsPO Box 1200,

Verna , UT 84078.

§ 435 789-3813.

∑ www.hatchriver.com

OARSPO Box 67,

Angels Camp, CA 95222.

§ (800) 346-6277.

∑ www.oars.com

D RY RIPS

Grand CanyonDoriesPO Box 216,

Altaville, CA 95221.§ 800 877-3679.

∑ www.oars.com

Grand CanyonExpeditionsPO Box 0,

Kanab, UT 84741.

§ (800) 544-2691.

∑ www.gcex.com

AYAK S UPPOR TRIPS

CanyonExplorationsPO Box 310,

Flagstaff, AZ 86002.

§ (800) 654-0723,

928 774-4559.

∑ www.canyonx.com

Grand CanyonDiscovery 4050, E Hunt ngton Dr,


§ (800) 786-7238.

∑ www.

grandcanyondiscovery.com

DIRECTORY

service is currently reviewingthe permit system).

I you o not want to waitt at ong, t e so ution maybe to sign up for a kayak

support trip wit tour opera-tors such as Grand CanyonDiscovery an CanyonExplorations. Paddlers signup for trips on specific dates.The operators provide guidesand kayaks if needed), as

well as food and campinggear (which follows alongin a support raft). Full- anda -river trips are avai a e,

an prices are compara eto rafting trips.

On t e Co ora o River in a whitewater kayak

Several tour operators,including Grand CanyonDories an Gran CanyonExpe itions, offer 7–1 day dory trips through the canyon.



La e Powell &

Nationa Recrea

THE BUILDING OF Glen Cany

185-mile (298-km) long Laed as a reservoir to provideit got a boost in 1972 with th yon National Recreation Areaone million acres of dramaticmostly along the Utah side opopular hiking and WD deam workers, the town o Paor exploring Lake Powell anshore, the Wahweap an Bull

ity an house oating an warecent years prolonge rou


Glen Canyo1963 and rises

bedro

View of Lake Powell The blue waters of the man-maby colorful sandstone coves – ocanyons – and dramatic butte

Antelope Canyon Bands of sandstone curve sinuously together, sometimes just a few feet apart, in this famously deep “slot” canyon.

sett ement n t e t century.Today, this outpost offers touristfacilities, including a rangerstation and campground.

CANYON

9



J

N O R T H E R N A R I Z O N A 3

C ANYON CONTROVERSY

T e comp etion o G en CanyonDam flooded the area described y explorer John Wesley Powellas “a curious ensemble of wonderful features.” Controversialfrom the start, the project spurredthe environmentalist Sierra Clubto campaign against t e originap ans. To ay, t ey continue to

argue for the restoration of GlenCanyon, e ieving t at ancientecosystems are being ruined.Pro- am a vocates point out t e va ue o t e am’s a i ity to store water, generate power, andprovide recreation.


Road map C1. 2m (3 km) N of

Page on Hwy 89, o Hwy 160.

~ to Page, Bullfrog Marina.

n Carl Hayden Visitor Center,

age, 928) 608-6404.

∑ www. nps.gov/glca

∑ www.lakepowell. com

# 8am–5pm. 7 visitor center

only. 8 - 0 = M Page &

Wa weap ony.

Boating on Lake Powellmer weekends, the lake is a as powerboats, waterskiers,at parties, jetskis, and cata-

xplore its myriad sandstone nyons. Colorado River float

vailable below Glen Canyonam, are a special attraction.

n Visitor information

Viewpoint

a s Crossing has aarina and is the startingoint for the regular ferry rvice to Bullfrog Bay.

Lake Powell behind the

vast Glen Canyon Dam

276

276

5



Flagstaf 3

NESTLING AMONG the pine orests oNorthern Arizona’s San Francisco

Peaks, Flagsta is one o the region’smost attractive towns. It is a lively, easy-oing place with a good selection of ars and restaurants among the maze of

old red-brick buildings that make up itscompact downtown. Flagstaff’s first Anglo settlers weresheep ranchers who arrived in 1876. The railroad camein 1882, and the town developed as a lumber center.

Flagstaff is the home of Northern Arizona University, which has two appealing art galleries, and is a good

base for visiting Grand Canyon’s South Rim, just undertwo hours’ drive away. The surrounding mountainsattract hikers in summer and skiers in winter.


E Lowell Observatory 1400 West Mars Hi R .

§ (928) 774-3358. # Mar–Oct:

9am–5pm; Nov–Fe : noon–5pm. Ca

for etails. ¢ public hols. & 7 8∑ www.lowell.edu

Tucked away on a hillabout a mile northwest of thetown center, t e LoweO servatory was oun e in1894 and named for itsene actor, Perciva Lowe , a

Exploring Flagstaff F agsta ’s center is narrowand slender, channelingnort towar t e Museumo Nort ern Arizona ansouth to the university. At itseart is a pocket-sized historic

district, an attractive ensembleof red-brick buildings, whichouses the best restaurants

and bars. Lowell Observatory

is located on Mars Hill, ashort distance from down-town, an t e popu ar Arizona Snow ow s i resortis an enjoyable ten-minuterive to t e nort o t e town.

member of one of Boston’s wealthiest families. Hefinanced the observatoryto look for life on Mars anchose the town because ofits high altitude and clearmountain air. T e o servatory went on to establish aninternationa reputation witits ocumente evi ence oan expanding universe, data

P Historic Downtown Just ten minutes’ walk fromend to end, Flagstaff’s historicowntown ates main y rom

t e 1890s. Many ui ingssport decorative stone andstucco riezes, an are nowoccupie y ca és, ars, anstores. Architecturally, severalbuildings stand out, particu-

larly the restored BabbittBuilding and the 1926 trainstation that today houses the visitor center. Perhaps themost attractive ui ing is t e Weatherford Hotel, which wasopene on January 1, 1900. It was name a ter its owner,Texan entrepreneur John W. Weat er or , an was mucadmired for its grand two-

story wraparound verandaand its sunroom.

E Northern Arizona Un vers ty 624 S Knoles Dr. § (928) 523-9011.

# imes vary, so call in advance.

∑ www.nau.edu

F agsta ’s ive y ca é society owes much to the 1 ,000students of Northern Arizona

University. T e main entrancepoint to the campus is locatedon Knoles Drive. Greenawns, stately trees, andseveral historic buildingsmake for a pleasant visit. Of particular note are two cam-pus art galleries: the Beasley Ga ery in t e Fine ArtBuilding, which featurestemporary ex i itions an

stu ent wor , an t e OMain Art Museum and Gallery ouse in O Main Bui ing –

the university’s oldest. Thiseatures the permanent WeissCollection, which includes works by the famous Mexicanartist Diego Rivera.

t at was isc ose to t epublic in 1912. One of theobservatory’s famous astron-omers, Clyde Tombaugh, dis-covered the planet Pluto on

February 18, 1930. Visitors can inspect the

main rotun a, wit its assort-e astronomica parap er-nalia, and view the originalp otograp ic p ates ma e y Tom aug . A gui e tourincludes a video presentationon the observatory’s history.Evening astronomy sessionscan be arranged in advance.

The town of Flagstaff with the San Francisco Peaks as a backdrop

The 1930 Pluto dome, Flagstaff

Lowell Observatory

Colorful Lowell Observatory sign



5N O R T H E R N A R I Z O N A

E Rior an MansionState Historic Park 409 Rior an R . § (928) 779-4395.

# ay–Oct: 8:30am–5pm;Nov–Apr: 10:30am–5pm. ¢ Dec 25.

& 7 ∑ www.azstateparks.com

In the mid-1880s, Michaelan Timot y Rior an esta -is e a um er companythat quickly made them aortune. T e rot ers t enui t a ouse o gran iose

proportions, a 40-room logmansion with two wings, one

for each of them. Completedin 1904 and now preservedas a State Historic Park, thehouse has a rustic, timber-clad exterior, and Arts andCrafts furniture inside.

E Pioneer Museum 2340 Fort Valley Rd. § (928) 774-

6272. # 9am–5pm Mon–Sat.

¢ Sun, pu ic o s. &Flagstaff’s Pioneer Museum

occupies an e egant stonebuilding that was originally built as a hospital in 1908.The museum opened in 1960and incorporates the BenDoney homestead cabin. Ondisplay in the grounds are asteam locomotive of 1929 anda Santa Fe Rai roa ca oose.Inside, a particular highlight isa se ection o Gran Canyon

p otograp s ta en in t eearly 1900s by photographersE swort an Emery Ko .

Arizona Snowbowl Snowbowl Rd, o Hwy 180.

§ (928) 779-1951. ± Flagstaff

Snow Report: 928 779-4577.

# Dec–mi -Apr.

∑ www.arizonasnowbowl.com

Downhill skiing can be

enjoyed at Arizona Snowbowljust 7 miles (11 km) north otown. T e mountains ere arethe San Francisco Peaks, whichreceive an average of 2 0 in(660 cm) of snow annually,

enough to supply the variousski runs that pattern the lowerslopes of the 12,356-ft3,707-m) high Agassiz Peak.

Facilities include four chairlifts,and a ski school for beginners.In summer, t ere is a i ingtrai up to t e pea , w i e orthose less inclined to walk, the Arizona Scenic S yri e is a

cable car trip that offers spec-tacular views of the scenery.

ISI ORS HECKLIS

Road map: C3. * 58,000.

~ Pulliam Airport, 4 miles

6 km south o town. £ Amtrak Flagstaff Station,

1 E Rte 66. c Flagstaff bus

station, 399 S Ma pais Lane.

n Flagstaff Visitor Center, at

Amtrak depot, 1 E Rte 66,

Flagstaff, (928) 774-9541. #Sep–May: 8am–5pm; June–Aug:

am– pm. ¢ T an sgiving, Dec

25. _ Flagstaff Festival of the

Arts early July to mid-August .

LAGSTAFF

Historic Downtown

District 2Lowell Observatory 1Northern Arizona

University 3Riordan Mansion

State Historic Park 4

The seum

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Arizona Snowbowl

Museum oforthern Arizona

oneer Museum

Arts and Crafts swinging settee

at Riordan Mansion

E Museum of Northern Arizona (see p66)

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THE MUSEUM OF NORTHERN ARIZONA hol s one o theSouthwest’s most comprehensive collections o

archeological arti acts, as well as ine art an naturalscience exhi its. The collections are arrange in galleriesaround a central courtyard. The Archeology Gallery givesan introduction to the historic cultures. The award-win-ning anthropology exhibition in the Ethnology Gallery ocuments 12,000 years of tribal cultures on the Colorado

Plateau, while the Babbitt Gallery showcases traditionaland modern pottery of the Hopi people. The MuseumShop sells contemporary Native arts and crafts.

Flagstaff: Museum of Northern Arizona

ISITORS’ C ECKLIS

3101 N Fort Va ey R . § 928774-5213. # 9am–5pm.

¢ public hols. & 7 =∑ www.musnaz.org

K EY

Arc eo ogy Ga ery

Ethnology Gallery

Babbitt Gallery

Geology Gallery

Historic courtyard

Temporary ex i ition space

Non-exhibition space

S TAR SIGHT

. Ethnology Gallery

The historic courtyard hasexhibits that focus on the variety

of plants and animals foundon the Colorado Plateau

through the ages.

The Kiva Gallery replicates the inside

of a kiva(see pp36–7)

Museum Façade Built in 1935, the museumhas a stone façade and is listed on the National

Register of Historic Places.

Geology Gallery A lifesize skeletal model of a Dil phosaurus is ringed

y dioramas of ancient Arizona desert scenes.

. Ethnology Gallery This well-organized gallery houses important examples of Hopi silverwork, Zuni

pottery, and kachina dolls

(see p19) dating from 1880.

ntrance

Archeology Gallery

Babbitt Gallery




Wupatki NationalMonument 4

Road map C3. Forest Service Rd 545,

Sunset Crater/Wupat i Loop R .§ (928) 679-2365. £ Flagstaff. cFlagstaff. # 8am–6pm summer;

9am–5pm w nter; 8am–5pm spr ng,

fall. ¢ Dec 25. & 7 partial. 8∑ www.nps.gov/wupa

COVERING MORE t an 35,000acres (14,000 ha) of sun-

scorc e wi erness to t enorth of Flagstaff, the WupatkiNationa Monument incorpor-

ates about 2,700 historic sitesonce inhabited by the ances-tors of the Hopi people. Thearea was first settled after theeruption of Sunset Crater in1064. The Sinagua people andtheir Ancestral Puebloancousins see pp3 –7) rea izet at t e vo canic as amade the soil more fertile andconsequent y avoura e or

farming. The power of the volcanic eruption may alsohave have appealed to theirspirituality. They left the regionin the early 13th century, butno one really knows why.

The largest site here is the Wupat i Pue o, ui t in t e12th century and once a four-story pue o comp ex o 100rooms, housing more than 100

Sinagua. T e structures riserom t eir roc y outcropoverlooking the desert. A trailfrom the visitor center exploresthe remains of the complex, whose most unusual feature isits ballcourt. Here the Sinaguamay have played at dropping aa t roug a stone ring wit -

out using t eir an s or eet.

Sunset Crater Volcano NationalMonument

Road map C3. Hwy 545 off Hwy 89,

Sunset Crater/ Wupatki Loop Rd.

§ (928) 556-7042. £ Flagstaff.

c lagstaff. # Mar–May &

Sep–Nov: 8am–5pm; June–Aug:

8am–6pm; Dec–Fe : 9am–5pm.

¢ Dec 5. & 7∑ www.nps.gov/sucr

A IGHTY volcaniceruption in 1064

ormed the 400-ft(120-m) deep SunsetCrater, leaving acinder cone that is1,000-ft (300-m) high.T e cone is ac atthe base and tinged wit re s an orangesart er up. T e one-mi e(1. -km) Lava Trail offers aneasy stro aroun t e as y

landscape with its lava tubes,bubbles, and vents. SunsetCrater is the youngest volcanoon the Colorado Plateau.

Walnut CanyonNationalMonument 6

Road map C3. Hwy 40 ex t 204.§ (928) 526-3367. £ Flagstaff.

c Flagstaff. # Mar–May, Sep–Nov:

8am–5pm; Jun–Aug: 8am–6pm;

Dec–Feb: 9am–5pm. ¢ Dec 25. &7 partial. 8 ∑ www.nps.gov/waca

CATED ABOUT en miles(16 km) east of Flagstaff,

off Interstate Highway 0,

the Walnut Canyon NationalMonument houses an intriguingcollection of single-storyc i we ings. T ese wereinhabited by the Sinagua

peop e in t e 12t an 13tcenturies. The Sinagua wereattracte to t e canyonecause o its erti e soi , an

the abundance of water fromthe nearb y Walnut Creek.

Today, visitors to WalnutCanyon can tour the 25 cliff dwellings huddled under-

neath the natural over-angs o its ero e san -

stone an imestone walls. Sinagua artifacts

are on isp ay in t e Walnut Canyon Visitor Center,

which also housesa small museum.

Ruins of a 12th-century pueblo building at Wupatki National Monument

Petroglyph from Walnut Canyon

Petrified ForestNational Park 7

Road map D3. Off Hwy I-40. § (928)

524-6228. # 8am–5pm. ¢ Dec 25.

& 7 partial. ∑ www.nps.gov/pefo

HE PETRIFIED Forest NationalPark is one of Arizona’s

most unusual attractions.Millions of years ago riversswept trees downstreaminto a vast swamp in the area.

Groundwater transportedsi ica ioxi e, an eventua y turned the timber into thequartz stone ogs seento ay, wit co ore crysta spreserving the trees’ shapean structure.

Running the length of theforest is the famous PainteDesert, an area of colorebands of sand and rock that

change from blues to reds asthe shifting light catches thei erent minera eposits. T e

Painte Desert Visitor Centeroffers an orientation film.

From ere, a 28-mi e5-km scenic road travels

the length of the park. Thereare nine overlooks, includingKachina Point, where thePainte Desert Wil erness

trailhead is located. Near thesouth end of the road is theRain ow Forest Museum

E Rainbow Forest Museum Off Hwy 180 (S entrance). § 928

524-6822. # 8am–5pm (call for exten-

ed hours schedule . ¢ Dec 25. &



Tlaquepaque Art Village

Sedona has attracted many artists and

craftspeople, whose creations are on display in

fine shops and galleries.

Spa ResortsSedona’s

natural desert

beauty and reputed healing

energies have made it a

premier center for spas

and resorts.

Crystal Therapy Sedona’s New Age centers offer a dazzling array of alternative therapies.

C ATHEDRAL R CK One of Sedona’s seven “energy vortexes,” Cathedral Rock isrevered in Native American mythology as the birthplace of the“First Man” and “First Woman.” It is a popular place for sunriseand sunset hikes, and the view of Cathedral Rock overlookingOak Creek is one of the most photographed scenes in Arizona.


Sedona 8

FOUNDED BY Theo ore Schnel y in1902, an name a ter his wi e,

Se ona was a quiet town until 1981.

That year, author and renownedpsychic, Page Bryant, claimed to havelocated seven “vortexes” emanatingpower ul spiritual energy in an

aroun this eauti ul town, an eclare it the “heart-chakra o the planet.” Since then, New Agers haveevelope Se ona as a spiritual, artistic, an out oor-

oriente resort town. To ay, artists o all kin s sell their works in a growing num er o galleries, such as thosein Tlaquepaque, a super ly ren ere village o artists,

cra tspeople, an imaginative shops.

V ISITORS’ C ECKLIST

Road map 3.* 16,000.

k Pulliam Airport, Flagsta

(no commercial flights into

Sedona Airport).n 331 Forest

Road, (800) 288-7336.

_ Sedona Jazz on the Rocks (late

Sep .∑ ww.visitsedona.com

Spas Mii Amo at Enchantment

Resort, (800) 826-4180;

Los A riga os Resort & Spa,

(800) 418-6499.

Art Shopping Tlaquepaque Art

Village, (928) 282-4838.

Sign of Sedona city

Havasupai Storyteller

Native American themes and traditions are oftencomponents of many of the programs offered inand around Sedona.



N O R T H E R N A R I Z O N A 9

Jerome w

Road map B3. * 500.

n Box K, Jerome, www .azjerome.com

A PROACHED FROM the eastalong Highway 89A,

Jerome is easy to spot, withits old brick buildings high

above the valley. Silver miningegan ere in t e 1870s, ut

the town’s big break came in1912 w en prospectors strucsu stantia copper. Wor WarI sent the price of copper sky-ig , an Jerome oome .

In the Wall Street Crash of 1929, however, copperprices tumbled, and the boomtimes were over. Jerome was

a ghost town by the early1960s, but its fortunes havenow een revive y an in uxo artists an artisans.

Tuzigoot NationalMonument q

Road map B3. Follow signs from Hwy

89A. § 928 634-5564. # en

May–early Sep: 8am–6pm; early

Sep–end May: 8am–5pm. ¢ Dec 25.

& ∑ www.nps.gov/tuz

ERCHED ON A solitary ands en er imestone ri ge,

the ruins of Tuzigoot NationalMonument o er ine views ot e Ver e River Va ey. T epueblo was built by theSinagua people between the12th and 15th centuries and,at its peak, had a populationof around 300. It was aban-doned in the early 15th

century, w en t e Sinaguaare believed to havemigrate nort .

Tuzigoot was part y re ui tby a local and federally fundedprogram uring t e Depressionin the 1930s. This empha-sized one of the mostunusual features of pueblobuilding, the lack of doorways. The normal

pueblo room wasentered by laddert roug ahatchway in theroo . Sinaguanarti acts an art areon display at the visitor center here.

Façade of an early 20th-century store

on Jerome’s historic Main Street

Picturesque Oak Creek Canyon – a popular summer destination

Oak CreekCanyon

Road map B3. n 800 228-7336.

JUST SOUTH OF F agsta ,Highway 89A weaves a

c arming route t roug OaCreek Canyon on its way toSedona. In the canyon, dense woods shadow the road, anthe steep cliffs are colored inbands of red and yellowsan stone, pa e imestone,and black basalt. The canyonis a popu ar summer vacation

area wit many ay- i ingtrails, such as the East PocketTrail, a steep, wooded climbto the canyon rim. One of theprettiest and easiest hikesin Oak Creek is along the3-mile (5-km) West ForkTrail, which follows a streampast a an one app eorchards and into a narrowre roc canyon. At near y

Slide Rock State Park, swim-mers enjoy s i ing overt e roc s t at orm anatural water chute.

Williams 0

Road map B3. * 2,700.

£ n 200 W Rai roa Ave,

928 635-4061. ∑ .

williamschamber.com

HIS DISTINCTIVE little town was name in 1851 or

Bill Williams (1787–18 9), alegendary mountain man andtrapper who lived for a time with the Osage Indians inMissouri. The town grewaround the railroad that camein the 1880s, and when this

was o owe y a spur tracto Grand Canyon’s South Rimin 1901, Wi iams ecameesta is e as a tourist center.By the late 1920s, it wasa so a popu ar rest stop onRoute 66 see pp28–9

The town retains its frontieratmosphere, complete withStetson-wearing locals.Most hotels an iners are

ocate on a oop t at o owsRoute 66 on one side, andInterstate Highway 0 onthe other. Diners evoke the1950s, an are i e witRoute memorabilia,including original sodafountains and posters.




THE VERDE RIVER passes through the wooded hillsand fertile meadows of Central Arizona, before

opening into a wide, green valley between Flagstaff and Phoenix. The heart of Arizona is full of charm-ing towns such as Sedona, hidden away amongstunning scenery, and the former mining town of Jerome. Over the hills lies Prescott, once state capi-tal and now a busy, likable little town with a cen-ter full of dignified Victorian buildings. The area’sancient history can be seen in its two beautifulpueblo ruins, Montezuma Castle and Tuzigoot.

Heart of Arizona our e

Se ona 1Set among dramaticred rock hills, Sedona(see p68) is a popularresort, known for itsNew Age stores andgalleries, as well as forits friendly ambience.

Tuzigoot National Monument2

Stunning views of Verde River Valley are seen at this ruinedpueblo see p69), occupieduntil 1425.

rescott4This cool hilltop town is setamong the rugged peaks andlush woods of Prescott NationalForest, making it a popular centeror many outdoor activities.

Camp Ver e5 A highlight of this little town is

Fort Verde. Built by the US Army in 1865, the fort is manned by

costumed guides.

Montezuma CastleNationa Monument6The Ancestral Puebloanruins here date from the1100s and occupy one ofthe loveliest sites inthe Southwest.

FLAGSTAFF

Jerome3 A relic of themining boom, Jerome (see p69) isknown for its 1900s brick

buildings that cling to theslopes of Cleopatra Hill.

K EY

Tour route

Other roads

OENIX

km

0 miles

10

10

IPS FOR DRIVERS

Recommended route: rom

Sedona, take Hwy 89A to

Tuzigoot, Jerome, and Prescott.

Hwy 69 runs east from Prescott to

nterstate Hwy 17, which

connects to Camp Ver e, Fort

Ver e, an Montezuma Cast e.

Tour length: 85 miles (137 km).

When to go: Spring and fall are

delightful; summer is very hot.



N O R T H E R N A R I Z O N A 7 1

the settlers, building Fort Verde in 1865. Today, Camp Ver e remains at t e center oa arge an prosperousfarming and ranching com-munity. It was rom Fort Ver et at t e army orc estrate aseries of brutal campaignsagainst the Apache, which

ended with the Battle of theBig Dry Wash in 1882. Oncethe Apache had been sent to

reservations, Fort Ver e was nolonger needed andit was ecom-missione in 1891.Four of its originalui ings ave sur-

vived. The former

arm y administrationbuilding contains acollection of exhibits on army ife. The interiorsof the other threeouses, on O icers’

Row, have beenrestore . On wee en s, romspring to a , vo unteersdressed in period costume act

as gui es an re-enact scenesfrom the fort’s daily life.

P Fort Verde at Camp Verde State Historic Park Off Hwy I-17. § (928) 567-3275.

# 8am–5pm. ¢ Dec 25. &

a hard-drinking frontier area.Perhaps the three years spentas t e ear y capita o t e Arizona Territories gave itsome respectability. PalaceSa oon is t e on y structuree t rom “W is ey Row,”

where over 20 saloons oncestood. The Governor’s

Mansion – really just a largeog cabin – is part of theSharlot Hall Museum . Thisexceptional museum is namedfor Sharlot Hall, a pioneer, writer, and early activist whoserve as Arizona’s irstsa arie istorian. Herpaintings and photographsorm t e core o a co ectionthat fills nine buildings.

Fans of Native history should visit Smoki Museum . Locatedin a replica of a Hopi pueblo,the museum contains over2,000 Native artifacts fromprehistoric to modern. Themuseum’s as et co ection issaid to be one of the best int e Unite States. A so o noteis t e P ippen Art Museum which has an impressive

co ection o istoric ancontemporary Western art.

P Sharlot Hall Museum 415 W Gurly St. § (928) 445-3122.

# May–Oct: 10am–5pm Mon–Sat,

0am–2pm un; Nov–Apr: 10am–4pm

Mon–Sat. ∑ ww.sharlot.org

P Smo i Museum 147 N Arizona St. § (928) 445-1230.

# 10am–4pm Mon–Sat, 1pm–4pm

Sun. ∑ www.smo imuseum.org E Phippen ArtMuseum 4701 Hwy 89 N. § (928) 778-1385.

# 10am–4pm Tue–Sat, 1pm–4pm

Sun. ¢ early Jan, Thanksgiving,

Dec 25; Mon. ∑ www.

p ippenartmuseum.org

Pue o remains of Montezuma Cast e, ui t into imestone c iffs

Montezuma CastleNationalMonument r

Road map B3. Hwy I-17 exit 289.§ 928 567-3322. # ear y Sep–en

May: 8am–5pm; end May–early Sep:

8am–6pm. & ∑ www.nps.gov/moca

D ATING FROM the 1100s, thepue o remains t at ma e

up Montezuma Castle occupy an i y ic ocation, ui t intothe limestone cliffs high aboveBeaver Cree , a coup e o

mi es to t e east o InterstateHighway 17. Once home tothe Sinagua people, this cliff dwelling originally contained20 rooms on five floors.Montezuma Castle wasdeclared a National Monumentin 190 to preserve its excel-ent con ition. T e visitorcenter has a display onSinaguan i e, an is oun

at the start of an easy traila ong Beaver Cree . T eNational Monumentalso incorporatesMontezuma Well,situated about 11miles (18 km) to thenort east. T isnatural sinkhole,50 t 15 m eepand 470 ft (140 m)

in iameter, are igious signi i-cance for Native Americans, who

elieved it was thesite of the Creation.Over 1,000 gallons(3,790 liters) of water ow t roug t esin o e every minute, aninexhaustible supply that has

ong een use or irrigation. A narrow trail leads aroundt e rim e ore twisting its way own to the water’s edge.

Costumed guides at Fort Verde State

Historic Park

Camp Verde t

Road map B3. * 6,000. n 385

S Main St, 928 567-9294.M∑ www.campverde.org

F ARMERS FOUNDED the smallsettlement of Camp Verde

in the heart of the Verde River Valley in the 1860s. It was aris y enterprise as t e Apac elived nearby, but the US Army quic y move in to protect

Prescott y

Road map 3. * 4,000. ~ cn 117 W Goodwin St, (928) 445-

2000. ∑ ww.prescott.org

URROUNDED BY ig -country an a es, t is attractive

Victorian town gives littleevi ence o its ear y ays as



Lake MeadNationalRecreation Area

Road map A2. c as egas.

§ Alan Bible Visitor Center,

(702) 293-8990. # 8:30am–

4: pm. ¢ Jan 1, T an sgiving,

Dec 25. & 7 limited.M∑ www.nps.gov/ ame

A TER THE comp etion o t eHoover Dam, t e waters

of the Colorado River filledt e eep canyons t at oncetowered above the river tocreate a huge reservoir. Thislake, with its 700 miles(1,130 km) of shoreline, is thecenterpiece of Lake MeaNational Recreation Area, a

1.5-million-acre (600,000-ha)tract o an . T e ocus is on watersports, especially sailing, waters iing, an is ing.Stripe ass an rain owtrout are popular catches.T ere are a so severa camp-grounds and marinas.


Hoover Dam u

Road map A2. n Hoover Dam

Visitor Center, Hoover Dam, Bou er

C ty , (702) 597-5970, (866) 291-

8687. # 9am–4:45pm.¢ Thanksgiving, Dec 25. & 7

N AMED AFTER HerbertHoover, the 31st presi-

ent, t e istoric Hoover Damis situate at Arizona’s or er with Nevada. Built between1931 an 1935 across t eColorado River’s Black Canyon,the dam is 30 miles (48 km)

east of the city of Las Vegas.Hailed as an engineering vic-tory, the dam gave this desertregion a reliable water supply and provided inexpensiveelectricity. Today, it supplies water and electricity to thet ree states o Neva a, Arizona,an Ca i ornia, an as createLake Mead – a popular touristcenter. Visitors to t e am can

take the Discovery Tour, whichincludes a trip to the observa-tion deck and elevator ridedeep inside the dam to thegenerator viewing area.

Located eight miles (13km) west of Hoover Dam isBou er City , w ic wasbuilt as a model community to ouse am construction workers. With its neat yards

an su ur an streets, it is oneo Neva a’s most attractiveand well-ordered towns. ItsChristian founders anned

Lake Mead, a popular tourist destination for watersports

Kingman o

Road map 3. * 35,000. ~£ c n 120 W Andy Devine Ave,

928 753-6106. ∑ www.

kingmantourism.org

CATED IN t e mi e o t edesert, Kingman was

oun e y t e Santa FeRailroad as a constructioncamp in 1882. In t e 1920s,

the town became an impor-tant stop on Route 66 see pp28–9 , and duringthe 1930s depression it wascrowded with migrantsleeing the Midwest. Today,Kingman’s claim to fame iseing situate on t e ongest

T E CONSTRUCTION OF THE OVER D AM

More than 1,400 miles (2,250 km) in length, theCo ora o River ows t roug seven states romthe Rocky Mountains to the Gulf of California. A treacherous, unpredictable river, it used to be

a raging torrent in spring and a trickle in theheat of summer. As a source of water it wastherefore unreliable and, in 1928, the sevenstates it served signedthe Boulder Canyon

Project Act to e ine ow muc water each state could siphono . T e agreement pave t e way for the Hoover Dam, and itsconstruction egan in 1931. It was a mammot tas , an more

than 5,000 men toiled day andnight to build what was, at 726ft (218 m), the world’s tallestdam. The dam contains 17hydroelectric generating units.

View of the Hoover Dam

Hoover Dam sign

casinos, and there are nonehere today. Several of itsoriginal 1930s buildingsremain, including the restored1933 Bou er Dam Hote , w ic ouses t e Hoover Dam Museum .

T e museum te s t eistory an eve opment o

Boulder City, Hoover Dam,Lake Mead, and the Lower

Colorado River region through3-D interactive displays andexhibits. Several artifacts andphotographs, which highlightt e ives o t e wor ers w obuilt the dam, provide asense o t e comp exity ant e immense sca e o t eHoover Dam project.

E Hoover Dam Museum

1305 Arizona St, Boulder City.§ 702 294-1988. # 10am–5pm

Mon–Sat; noon–5pm Sun. & 7∑ www. cm a.org




Oatman – a boomtown of the early 20th century

Oatman p

Road map 3. * 00. n P Box

423, Oatman, (928) 768-6222.

ROSPECTORS STRUCK goldin 1904 in the Black

Mountains and Oatmanbecame their main supply center. To ay, it is popu ar with visitors wanting a tasteo its oomtown past, suc ast e 1920s ote , w ere Caro eLombard and Clark Gablehoneymooned in 1939.

Lake Havasu City a

Road map 3. * 45,000. ~ cn 314 London Bridge Rd, (928) 453-

3444. ∑ www.golakehavasu.com

C ALIFORNIA businessmanRobert McCulloch found-

ed Lake Havasu City in1964. The resort city he

ui t on t e Co ora o River

was popular with the land-locked citizens of Arizona.His real brainwave, however,came four years later whenhe bought the historic LondonBridge and transported ita t e way rom Eng anto La e Havasu.

Some mocked McCulloch,suggesting t at e a

thought he was buyingLon on’s Got ic TowerBridge, not this much moreordinary one. There wasmore hilarity when itappeared that there wasnothing in Havasu City for thebridge to span. Undaunted,McCulloch simply createdt e waterway e nee e .The bridge, and its adjoining

moc -Tu or vi age comp ex,ave since ecome one o

Arizona’s most populartourist attractions. Theyare the center point for aresort that specializes in watersports of every kind,from powerboating andhouseboating to jetskiingan aya ing. Go , i ing,and 4WD adventures are

a so very popu ar.

London Bridge spanning a man-made waterway in Lake Havasu City

Quartzsite s

Road map 4. * 3,300. cn Quartzsite Chamber of Commerce,

I00 E Main, 928 927-5600.

∑ www. quartzsitechamber.com

HIS QUIET VILLAGE, ocatein the low desert, 10

miles (16 km) east of the

Colorado River, has longeen a favorite collecting

site for rockhounds (see pp26–7). In the 1970s, the winter popu ation eganto swell as escapees fromt e nort ern co arrive inroves to par t eir RVs or

a modest sum on governmentan . Many were roc oun s,and they started Quartzsite’s

first gem and mineral show.Today, over a million people visit the town every winter,and eight major gem andmineral shows take placein January and February.Everyt ing rom antiquesand collectibles to solarpane s to eyeg asses cane purc ase in w at must e

the most curious and diverse

flea market in America.

remaining stretch of Route 66.Renewed interest in the roadhas resulted in the renovationo many o Kingman’s Route66 diners, motels, and tourist

stops. T e visitor center,housed in the “Powerhouse,” w ic was ui t in 1907,features a replica Routediner and the Route 66Museum, which traces theroad’s journey from its origins.

Chloride a former miningtown, is an enjoyable day tripfrom Kingman. A boomtownuring t e ate 19t century, it

sti as many o its originastructures, including a raised woo en si ewa , an someshops and galleries.







h

Phoenix 1

PHOENIX IS A HUGE metropolis, stretchingacross the Salt River Valley. Farmers

and ranchers settled here in the 1860s.By 1912, the city had developed intothe political and economic focus o Arizona and was the state capital. As itgrew, it absorbed surrounding towns,although each district still maintains its

identity. Downtown Phoenix is now being reinvigoratedand is home to many historic attractions. These includerestored Victorian houses in Heritage Square, the Phoenix Art Museum, and the Heard Museum (see pp78–9) with

its excellent collection of Native American artifacts.


E Arizona StateCapito Museum 1700 West Washington St.

§ 602 542-4675.

# 8am–5pm Mon–Fri.

¢ public hols. 8 7

∑ www.li .az.us/museumCompleted in 1900,the Arizona StateCapitol housed thestate egis ature unti t ey move into new premises in1960. The handsome buildingis toppe y a copper ome.

Exploring DowntownP oenixDowntown Phoenix, where

the city began in the 19thcentury, is centere on Was -ington and Jefferson Streets, w ic run east to west

etween 7t Street an 19t Avenue. Central Avenue is themain north-south axis: to itseast, parallel roads are labeledas “Streets,” while roads to the west are “Avenues.” City sightsare mostly too far apart to see

on foot, and driving is the bestoption. A DASH bus runs fromowntown to t e State Capito

regu ar y on wee ays.

The interior is now a muse-um; gui e tours inc u e otoriginal legislative chambers,

which have been carefull y restored, and a series of sepiaphotographs that documentthe history of Phoenix.

E Arizona Mining& Minera Museum 1502 W Washington St. § (602) 255-

3777. # 8am–5pm Mon–Fri; 11am–

4pm Sat. ¢ pu ic o s. & 7 =∑ www.admmr.state.az.us

The search for precious stonesand metals brought waves of prospectors to the Southwestin the years following the Civil

War (1861–65). Theriches they unearthedin Arizona’s sun-searehills were fabulous.

A mountain o si ver was discovered in theDragoon Mountains

near Tucson, w i equantities of gold,silver, copper, anturquoise were found

farther north in the CerbatMountains outside Kingman(see p72). As word of theortunes to e ma e in t e

area spread, thousands of prospectors converged on theSuperstition Mountains see

p84) to the east of Phoenix.However, many ended up

estitute, never iscovering t elarge deposits of gold rumoredto e i en in t e i s.

T is museum traces t e is-tory of Arizona mining throughp otograp s an isp ays oistoric tools. There are also

glittering examples of the vari-ous rocks the miners quarried,the most striking of which arethe copper-bearing ores such

as malachite and azurite, in vivid greens and blues.

P Heritage Square115 N 6th St. 7 partial. Rosson

ouse § 602 262-5071.

∑ www.rossonhousemuseum.org

Phoenix is a thoroughly modern city, whichgrew rapidly after Wor War II. Man

of its older build-ings i not survivet is expansion. How-ever, a few late 19th-an ear y 20t -century buildings remain, and themost interesting o t ese areound on Heritage Square.

Rosson House is a handsome woo en mansion on MonroeStreet dating from 1895. It has

a wraparound veranda anddistinctive hexagonal turret. Visitors may tour the house, w ic is urnis e in periosty e. Next oor is t e BurgessCarriage House, constructedin an expansive co onia sty erare in the Southwest. The1900 Silva House featuresexhibits detailing Arizona’shistory. The tree-lined

square with its cafésis pleasant fora stro .

The 1900 façade of the Arizona State Capitol Building

Azurite and ma ac ite roc

Cas register at t eMuseum o History

K EY

n Visitor in ormation

Parking



P H O E N I X

E Arizona Science Center 600 E Washington St. § (602) 716-

2000. # 10am–5pm. ¢ Thanksgiving,

Dec 5. & 7∑ www.azscience.org

This ultra-modern facility

as over 300 interactivescience exhibits, coveringeverything from physics andenergy to the human body,spread over three levels. The

artifacts, including 19th-century an surveying

equipment, a steam-powerebicycle, Phoenix’s firstprinting press, and recon-structions of a general storeand the first jail.

E Phoenix Art Museum 1625 Centra Ave. § 602 257-1222.

# 10am–5pm Tue, We , Fri, Sat &

Sun; 10am–9pm Thu. ¢ public hols.

& 7 - = ∑ www.phxart.org

Housed in an austere modernui ing, t e ig y ac aime

oenix Art Museum asan enviable reputation

or t e qua ity o itstemporary exhibitions.T ese usua y s aret e ower o t emuseum’s two floors

wit a permanentcollection of contempo-

rary European and US art.The second floor features18th- and 19th-century American artists, wit a ocuson painters connecte to t eSouthwest. The exhibit hereinc u es irst-rate wor romthe Taos art colony of the1900s an Georgia O’Kee e(1887–1986), the most distin-guished member of the

group. Among other featureartists are Gilbert Stewart(1755–1828), whose cele-brate Portrait o George Washington (1796) is seenon every o ar i .

popu ar “A A out You”gallery on Level One focuseson uman io ogy. Here, visitors can ta e a virtuareality trip through the body.

Level Three has “The World Around You,” where visitorsexplore a 90-ft (27-m) longrock wall, and test the surfacetemperature of differentsubstances. The center alsoas a arge-screen cinema on

Level One. It is popular withc i ren, ut t ere is some-thing here for everyone.

IGHTS AT A LANCE

Arizona Mining & MineralMuseum 2

Arizona State Capitol Museum1 Arizona Science Center 4Heritage Square 3Phoenix Art Museum 6Phoenix Museum of History 5

ISI ORS HECKLIS

Road map B4. * 1,300,000

(city only). k ky Harbor

International Airport, 3 miles

(1.5 km) E of downtown.

c Grey oun Bus, 2115 E.

Buc eye R . n Greater P oenix

Convent on & V s tors Bureau,

50 North 2nd St, (602) 254-

6500. _ The PGA’s FBR

Golf Open, Jan.

Outside view of the Phoenix Museum of History

n

n

h

h

h

h

h

h

h

Hear Muse

0 meters

0 yards

500

500

E Phoenix Museum

o History 105 N 5th St. § (602) 253-2734.

# 10am-5pm Tue–Sat. ¢ public

hols. & 7 ∑ www.pmoh.org

This inventive museumconcentrates on the early years of the city’s history.There is a fascinatingrange o unusua




THE HEARD MUSEUM was oun e in 1929 y Dwight Hear , a wealthy rancher an

usinessman who, with his wi e, Maie,assem le an extraor inary collection oSouthwest Native American art in the 1920s.Several ene actors later a e to the collec-tion; they inclu e Senator Barry Gol watero Arizona an the Fre Harvey Company,

who onate their kachina olls. Themuseum exhi its more than 30,000 works,ut its star attraction is their isplay o more

than 500 dolls. Additionally, the museum

showcases baskets, pottery, textiles, and fineart, as well as sumptuous silverwork y theNavajo, Zuni, and Hopi peoples.

P oenix: Heard Museum

Heard Museum’s Spanish Colonial Revival style,

retained in the 1999 expansion

Mai n entrance

The Samuel an Betty Kitchell

Gallery exploresthe traditions of

Native art.Flagsong (1983)

This sculpture by Native American artist Doug Hyde

is located in one of the Heard’s tranquil courtyards.

entral courtyard

leading to main

en rance

Red Totem 1980)George Morrison’s

sculpture reflects the fusion of traditional and contemporary styles in the Native American

Fine Art Movement.



P H O E N I X 7

ISI ORS HECKLIS

2301 N Central Ave, Phoenix,

AZ 85004. @ Phoenix

Grey oun Station. § 602

252-8840. ± (602) 252-8848.

# 9:30am– 5pm. ¢ pu ic

hols. & 7 8 0 =∑ www.heard.org

S TAR COLLECTION

. Home: Native Peoplesin the Southwest

K EY

Samuel and Betty Kitchell Gallery

Crossroads Gallery

Sandra Day O’Connor Gallery

Ullman Learning Center

Freeman Gallery

Home: Native Peoples in theSouthwest Gallery

Lincoln Hal

Pritzlaff Courtyard

Non-exhibition space

. ome: NativePeoples in theSouthwest This award-winning collection of over 2,000 Native artifacts spans14 centuries, and includes jewelry,basketry, textiles,

pottery and one of the West’s best collections of kachinas

The South Courtyard offersadditional spacefor the museum’sfine sculptures.

U man Learning

enter eatures inter-active exhibits relatedto Native American lifein Arizona.

Navajo Child’s Blanket Woven in the 1870s, this richly colored, traditional lanket is one of the high-

lights of the Sandra Day O’Connor Gallery. The museum’s history is documented at the gallery,which also showcases the Heard family’s early collection of Native American artifacts.

Red-Tailed Hawk Painted in 1986 by

Dan Namingha,this is an impres-

sionistic view of a Hopi kachina in hawk

form. It is displayedas part of the Heard’s

fine art collection.

Every Picture Tells a Story An interactive hands-on display shows how artists interpret their environments through art.

e



k

Railroad

Highway

Interstate

Metropolitan Phoenix

Downtown Phoenix

Major highway

K EY

International airport


PHOENIX IS ONE of North America’s largest cities. Inaddition to its city population of more than one

million, Phoenix has a burgeoning number of residentsin its metropolitan area, totaling more than threemillion. The city fills the Salt River Valley, occupyingmore than 2,000 sq miles (5,200 sq km) of the SonoranDesert. It is famous for winter temperatures of 0–70°F(1 –21°C) and around 300 days of sunshine a year. Thismakes Phoenix a popular destination with both touristsand “snowbirds,” visitors who spend their winters here.

Metropolitan Phoenix includes the former town of Scottsdale, 12 miles (19 km) northeast of downtown.

With air-conditioned malls, designer stores, hotels, anrestaurants, it is a good base for visiting Taliesin Westand Papago Park, and is famous for its world-class golcourses see pp154–5). Tempe, miles (10 km) east of owntown, is home to Arizona State University and the

Pue lo Gran e Museum, while Mesa has the ArizonaTemple, a large Mormon church uilt in 1927.

Exploring Metropolitan Phoenix

ScottsdaleFoun e in t e ate 19t

century, Scottsdale was namedafter its developer, army chap-ain Winfield Scott (1837–1910),

whose religious scrupleselped keep the early settle-

ment free from saloons angambling. Scottsdale’s quiet,tree- ine streets an esert

setting attracted the architectFran L oy Wrig t see p21)

w o esta is e Ta iesin Westhere in 1937. The area stillattracts artists an esigners,but it is best known for itsmany golf courses – there are175 in and around Scottsdale. At the center of the district, toeither si e of Scotts ale Roa

E Taliesin West Cactus Rd at Frank Lloyd Wright

Blvd, Scottsdale.§ (480) 860-8810.

# 9am–4pm.¢ hanksgiving,

Dec 25, Jan 1.&78

∑ www.franklloydwright.orgGenerally regarded as thegreatest American architectof all time, Frank Lloy Wright (1869–1959) estab-lished the 600-acre (240-ha)Taliesin West complex as a winter school for his studentsin 1937. Wrig t a cometo prominence in Chicagouring t e 1890s wit a series

o stri ing y origina ousesthat featured an elegant open-p an sty e. A t oug note orhis use of local materials suchas desert rocks and earth, healso pioneered the use ofpre-cast concrete. Today,Taliesin West is home to the

SIGHTS AT A LANCE

Camelback Mountain 4

Challenger Space Center 8

Cosanti Foundation 3

Mystery Castle7

Papago Park 6

Pioneer Living History Village 9

Pueblo Grande Museum &

Archeological Park5

Scottsdale1

Taliesin West2

etween 2n Street anIn ian Sc oo Roa , t estreets are lined with low,

rig t y painte a o ebuildings, which house many of the city’s most fashionablerestaurants as well as bars,antiques stores, and art galler-ies. In a ition to the Renais-sance-style Borgata shoppingmall, there is the El PedregalFestiva Mar etp ace, anScottsdale Downtown with itsarts s opping istrict aroun

Main Street, Mars a Way,Old Town, and Fifth Avenue.Scotts a e is a so t e ocationfor Phoenix’s most popularshopping mall, Fashion Square, which has an array of designer stores and excel-ent restaurants (see p144).

Scottsdale’s elegant shopping

ma , Fas ion Square

0 miles 15

17

101

74

74

87

101

88

Scottsdale

saraya

G ert

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P H O E N I X 8

E Pue lo Grande Museum

& Archeological Park 4619 E Washington St. § (602) 495-

1. # am : pm on at;

1pm–4:45pm Sun. ¢ public hols.

& 7 ∑ www.ci.p oenix.az.us/

parks/pueblo.html

Located 5 miles 8 km eastof downtown Phoenix, thePueblo Grande Museum dis-plays a Hohokam ruin andmany artifacts, including cook-

ing utensils and pottery. Many o t ese pieces come rom t eadjacent Archeological Park,t e site o a Ho o am sett e-ment from the 8th to the 1 thcenturies. The site was origi-na y excavate in 1887, antoday has a path through theruins. Informative signs pointout the many irrigation canalsonce used by the Hohokam

to water their crops.

Taliesin West faç de, designed by Frank Lloyd Wright to blend with desert landscape

} Came ac Mountain Named for its humped shape,t is mountain rises iga ove its su ur an surroun -ings just 7 miles (11 km)

nort east o owntownPhoenix. One of the city’smost istinctive an mar s,the mountain is a granite ansandstone outcrop formed by prehistoric volcanic forces. Itis best approached from thenorth via the marked turn off McDonal Drive near thejunction of Tatum Boulevard.From t e par ing ot, a we -

mar e pat ea s to t esummit, a steep climb thatcovers 1,300 t 390 m inthe space of a mile.

Camel ack Mountain isadjacent to the Echo CanyonRecreation Area, a lovely woo e enclave with achoice of shaded picnic sites.

Foun ation in Scotts a e nine years later to further hisinvestigations into w ate terme “arco ogy”: a

combination of architectureand ecology to create newurban habitats (see p21).

Today, the Cosanti siteconsists of simple, low struc-

tures housing studios, aga ery, an wor s ops.T is is w ere So eri an is workers make and sell theirtra emar win e s. Gui e visits can be arranged witha vance notice. Visitors can also take a

tour of Soleri’s main project, Arcosanti, which lies 60 miles(100 km) north of Phoenix

on Interstate Highway 17.The project began in 1970and, once completed, it will house ,000 peoplein omes t at wi com ine work and leisure space.Currently, 0 residents livethere, using energy gener-ated by solar greenhouses.

Innovative esign of t e Cosanti Foun

ation gift s op

Wright School of Architecture, where students live and workor up to ive years. T estu ents a so wor as gui esto the complex. There area variety o tours, rom oneto t ree ours. One- ourtours begin every half hourfrom 10am to 4pm.

Taleisin West is approachedalong a winding desert road.The muted tones of thelow-lying buildings reflect Wright’s enthusiasm for thedesert setting. He was carefulto en ance, rat er t anominate, t e an scape.

E Cosanti Foun ation 6433 Doubletree Ranch Rd,

Paradise Valley. § (480) 948-6145.# 9am pm on Sat; 11am pm

Sun. ¢ public hols. & donation

requeste . 7In 1947, Italian architect PaoloSoleri (b. 1919) cameto study at Taliesin West.He set up the Cosanti




+ Mystery Castle800 E Mineral Rd. § (602)

268-1581. # Oct–Jun: 11am–4pm

T u–Sun. & 8Mystery Castle is possibly P oenix’s most eccentricattraction. In 1927, a certainBoyce Luther Gulley cameto the city hoping that the

warm climate would improveis ailing health. His young

daughter, Mary Lou Gulley,loved building sandcastleson t e eac an , sincePhoenix was so far awayrom t e ocean, Gu ey seta out creating a rea - i e airy-tale sandcastle for her.

He starte wor in 1930and continued for 15 years,

until his death in 1945.Discarded bricks, desertrock, railroad refuse, and anassortment of scrapyard junk,inc u ing o car parts, avebeen used to build the struc-ture. T e 18-room interior as13 fireplaces, and can be seenon a gui e tour, w icexp ores t e quir y ui ingand its eclectic collection of

antiques and furniture fromaround the world.

Y Papago Par Galvin Parkway & Van Buren St.

§ 602 256 -3220. ∑ www.p oenix.

gov/par s/papago. tm

Papago Park is situated 6 miles10 km east of downtown

Phoenix, and is a popularplace to unwind, with anumber of hikingand cycling trails,picnic areas, anfishing ponds.Many o P oenix’stop attractions arelocated withinthe ramblingboundaries of

Papago Park. Themost famous of theseis the award-winningDesert Botanica Gar en .Covering over 1 5 acres (59ha), the park displays moret an 20,000 cacti an protectedesert flora from around the wor . T e most popu ar parto t e gar en is t e paveDesert Discovery Trail, which

winds past half the knownspecies of cacti in the world.Some of the rarer an moreragile specimens can befound in the nearby CactusHouse an Succu ent House.O particu ar interest are t eCenter for Desert Living, andDesert House, ot o w icdemonstrate low-impact,environmentally sensitive

ways for humans to co-existin harmony with the desert.The garden is prettiest inspring, when many specieslower. Guided tours explaint e extraor inary i e cyc es othe desert plants seen here.T e ro ing i s an a es o

Cacti in the Desert Botanical

Garden at Papago Park

P oenix Zoo also occupy alarge area of the Papago Park. A series o natura a itats,inc u ing t e Arizona-SonoraDesert and a tropical rainfor-

est, ave een repro uce atthe zoo. It is home to moret an 1,300 anima s rom arounthe world; the animals’ move-ments are controlled by banksan canals rather than fences.The Arizona Trail area of thezoo gives visitors a chance toencounter rarely seen animalsthat are native to Arizona’seserts an mountains. A

Sa ari Train provi es anarrated tour of the zoo. A so in Papago Par is

the Hall of Flame Museum , which houses an exceptionalcollection of fire engines andfirefighting equipment, datingfrom 1725. The museumtraces the history of organizedfirefighting, displaying over130 w ee e pieces an

thousands of smaller items. Arrange c rono ogica y,t e irst ga ery eatures an -

and horse-drawn fireequipment rom t e18th and 19thcenturies. Thesecond gallery contains over 25

motorize fireengines from the

ear y 20t century, w i e t ose atingfrom 1930 to the

present are s owcase in t et ir an ourt ga eries. Also part of the museum

is the National FirefightingHall of Heroes, whichonors firefighters who haveied in the line of duty, or

been decorated for heroic

service. In August 2003, themuseum opened a 2,000 sq ft

t e su ject o wildland fire-ig ting.

Y Desert Botanica Gar en1201 N Galvin Parkway. § (480)

941-1225. # May–Sep: 7am– 8pm;

Oct– Apri : 8am– 8pm. ¢ major

public hols. & 7 8

∑ www. g.org

O Phoenix Zoo455 N Galvin Parkway. § (602) 273-

1 41. # Sep–May: 9am–5pm;

Jun–Au g: 7am–8pm. ¢ Dec 25. &7 ∑ www.phoenixzoo.org

E Ha of F ame Museum 6101 E Van Buren St, Phoenix.

§ 602 275-3473. # 9am–5pm

Mon–Sat; noon–4pm Sun. ¢ Jan 1,

T an sgiving, Dec 25. &

∑ www.hallofflame.org

Trail’s End sign t Phoenix Zoo

Exterior of Phoenix’s unusual Mystery Castle



8P H O E N I X

E Challenger Space Center21170 N 83rd Ave, Peoria.

§ 623) 322-2001.# 9am–4pm

Mon–Fri; 10am–4pm Sat.¢ ma or hols. Public programs

0am, 11am, 1pm, 3pm at.&∑ www.azchallenger.org/index.htm

Name in onor o t eChallenger shuttle crew thatlost their lives in the 198isaster, the center’s mission is

“to inspire, excite, and educatepeople of all ages about themysteries and wonders of

space, science, and the universe in which we live.” Theirmain objective is to providee ucationa programs orsc oo c i ren. T e sametwo-hour programs are run onSatur ays or t e pu ic, anare geared for both adults andchildren. Utilizing the center’smultimillion dollar simulatedspace station and mission con-

trol center, the programs inte-grate teamwork, math, science,an ea ers ip s i s into excit-ing programs t at rep icate voyages to Mars or to a comet

urt ing t roug space. T ereare a so ai y tours o t e aci -ity that include an introductionto t e center’s ongoing pro-grams, and a wide variety of isplays and exhibits. One of

the highlights of the tour is astroll along a floating balcony to view “A Tour of theUniverse” – a breathtaking six-story ta , 27,000 sq t 2,508 sqm mura y o icia NASAspace artist, Robert McCall.T e mura , w ic epicts

E Pioneer LivingHistory Village3901 W Pioneer R .

§ (623) 465-1052.# Oct–May:

9am–5pm Wed–Sun; Jun–Sep:

8am–3pm Wed–Sun.

∑ www.pioneer-arizona.comUn i e some o Arizona’sHollywood-inspired Wild West towns, Arizona PioneerHistorica Vi age puts istor-ical accuracy and educationat the forefront of the experi-ence. That doesn’t stop themrom staging a gunfight in

man’s quest in space, wraps360 degrees around the insideof the center’s vast rotunda.

The center also hosts stargazing and other fun, edu-cational family programsthroughout the year.

t e street, ut at east it is ahistorically accurate gunfight.The village, with the help

of several costumed re-enactors, re-creates a frontiertown from Arizona’s territorialheyday circa 1860 to 1912.There are 29 buildings, 24of which are originals movedto t is site rom ot er partso Arizona. T e remainingbuildings, for instance the

ac smit ’s s op, arereplicas of buildings that once

stood in the territory – inthis case a duplicate of theshop that stood in Globein the 1870s. Also of noteare the bank, sheriff’soffice, a ranch complex, andeven an opera ouse t atonce hosted the legendary actress, Li ie Langtry.

Entrance to the Challenger Space Center

Educational tour for school children at Challenger Space Center




THE TOWERING ROCKY spires and canyons of theSuperstition Mountains are the setting for this

loop-trail that weaves together desert beauty and Western legends. Starting at Apache Junction, theroute clim s to the Tonto National Monument anthe Lost Dutchman State Park. The road turns togravel as it rises past three cool, man-made lakes,and continues to Globe. Descending, the road offersstunning views as it winds through red rock canyonsto the town of Superior, and the lovely gardens andsha y trails o Boyce Thompson Ar oretum.

Apache Trail Tour

Superst t on Mounta ns1Rising over 6,000 ft (1,829 m),this wild and rocky mountainrange is 40 miles (64 km)from Phoenix. Prospectorshave long sought wealth here.

IPS FOR RIVERS


Tour route: Drive t is route

c oc wise starting nort on

Route 88, from Lost Dutchman

State Par to Rooseve t Dam.

When to go: Spring and fall are

the most pleasant. Summer can be

very hot, and winter can be col

with occasional snow.

60

88

Lost Dutc man St

Named after the my

the park offers hikinthrough a high Sonorlandscape, and great vithe surrounding mountai

L ST UTCHMAN MINE M YSTERY In the 1870s, Prussian immigrant Jacob Waltz left hisome in P oenix, returning wit ig -gra e go

ore. Drinking and spending lavishly, he often spokeo a ric mine in t e Superstition Mountains. Years

ater, on his deathbed,he purportedly told hiscaregiver the locationof the mine. She andcountless others havesince trie to fin the

“Lost Dutchman Mine” wit out success. Itremains one o t emost captivating mys-teries o t e Wi West.

Weaver’s Needle peak, fabled

location of the mystery mine

Tonto National onument 3

These cliff dwellings were occupied by theSalado Indians from

13th to the 15th

The museufine exapotte

0 km

0 miles

5

5



S O U T H E R N A R I Z O N A 8 5

Salt River Canyon 3

Road map C4. nW ite Mountain

Apache Reservation Tourism O ice,

Fort Apache, (928) 338-1230.

HE APACHES used this deep, wild canyon as a refuge

rom US troops in the 1800s.Today, the Salt River marks theborder between the San Carlos Apache Reservation and the White Mountain ApacheReservation. T e 9-mi e(15-km) rim-to-rim drive onHighway 0 is truly awe-

inspiring as t e roa ropsalmost 2,000 ft (610 m) in aseries of hairpin turns to crossthe river on a narrow bridge.Occasionally a driver forgets topay attention, or loses controon the descent, and the result-ing twisted wreckage some-times stays or wee s at t ebottom of the gorge as a visual warning to ot ers. Numerous

pullouts exist along the roador t ose w o want to stopan a mire t e view. At t ebottom, near the bridge, thereis a parking area with interpre-tive signage. Several compa-nies see p150 offer single andmulti-day whitewater raftingtours, which provide tremen-ous views o t e 32,000 acre

(12,950 ha) wilderness that

surroun s t e river.

The beautiful and dramatic

wilderness of Salt River Canyon

Boyce T ompson Ar oretum6Dedicated to propagatingdesert species, the arboretumis very beautiful when thespring flowers bloom. Globe 4

Road map C4.* 6,000. @

n Globe Chamber o Commerce,1360 N Broad St, (928) 425 4495.M

HE MINING own of Globelies about 100 miles

(1 0 km) east o P oenix inthe wooded Dripping Springan Pina Mountains. In 1875,

Casa GrandeRuins NationalMonument 5

Road map C4. § (520) 723-3172.

# 8am– 5pm.¢ Dec 25.&7 ∑ www.nps.gov/cagr

FROM AROUND 200 BC untithe middle of the 15th

century, t e Ho o am peop earme t e Gi a River Va ey tothe southeast of Phoenix. Among the few Hohokamsites that remain, the fortress-ike structure that makes upthe Casa Grande NationalMonument is one of the most

istinctive. Bui t in t e ear y decades of the 14th century,an name t e “Big House” y a passing Jesuit missionary in 1694, this sturdy four-story structure has walls up to 4-ft1.2-m thick. The interior is

out of bounds, but visitors canstroll around the exterior. The visitor center has a smallmuseum with some interesting

exhibits on Hohokam history and culture. Casa Grande isocated 15 miles (2 km) eastof Interstate Highway 10 (I-10)on t e outs irts o Coo i ge. Its ou not e con use witthe town of Casa Grande,found to the west of I-10.

prospectors struck silver here,in what was then part of an Apac e reservation. T e si ver-

earing i s were annexefrom the reservation, and

G o e was oun e as amining town. It was namedor a massive nugget o si ver,shaped like a globe, whic was unearthed in the hillsnearby. The silver was quickly exhausted, but copper miningthrived until 1931, and contin-ues today. Globe has an attrac-tive historic district, and itsistory is out ine in t e Gi a

County Historica Museum On the south side of town aret e Bes -Ba-Gowa Ruins,home of the Salado people inthe 13th and 14th centuries.

P Gila CountyHistorical Museum 1330 N Broa St.§ 928 425-

7385.# 10am–4pm Mon–Fr ;

11am–3pm Sat; Sun by appointment.

¢ Jan 1, Dec 25.

60

88

K EY

Tour route

Other roads

n

Visitor in ormation

n

Superior 5Settled in 1870, the

n boasts the’s smallest mus-

ich houses Apache

e on

Roosevelt Dam4Completed in 1911, itsupplies water to Phoenix.The lake here is a favorite

with boaters and fishermen.

Weathered walls at Casa Grande Ruins National Monument, dating to the early 14th century







Tucson 6

DESPITE BEING ARIZONA S secon largest city,Tucson has a rien ly, welcoming atmosphere

an a variety o interesting attractions to entertainhe increasing num er o visitors it receives each year. The city is locate on the northern oun -ary o the Sonoran Desert in Southern Arizona,in a asin surroun e y ive mountain ranges. When the Spanish colonizers arrive in the early 18th century they were determined to seize landfrom the local Tohono O’odham and Pima Nativetribes, who put up strong resistance. This led theSpanish to move their regional fortress, or pre-

sidio, from Tubac to Tucson in the 1770s. Thecity was officially founded by Irish explorer HughO’Connor in 177 . Tucson’s pride in its history

is reflected in the careful preservation of 19th-century owntown buildings in the Barrio Historic District.


E Tucson Museum o Art & Historic Block 140 N Main Ave. § (520) 624-2333.

# 10am–4pm Tue–Sat; noon–4pmSun. ¢ Mon; public hols. & (free

on 1st Sun of month). 7 8∑ www. tucsonarts.com

T e Tucson Museum o Artopene in 1975 an is ocateon the Historic Block, whicha so contains ive o t e

Exploring Tucson Tucson’s major art ga eriesan museums are c usterearound two central areas: theUniversity of Arizona (UA)campus, lying betweenSpeedway Blvd, E Sixth Street,Park, and Campbell Avenues,and the downtown area,

w ic inc u es t e Barrio anEl Presidio historic districts.T e atter contains many ot e city’s o est ui ings, anis best explored on foot, as ist e Barrio Historic District,south of Cushing Street.

presidio’s oldest dwellings – most of which are at least a100 years o . T ese istoricbuildings form part of the artmuseum an ouse i erentparts of its extensive collection.T e museum’s scu pturegar ens an courtyar s a soform part of the Historic

Block complex.The art museum

itself displayscontemporary and20th-century European an American wor s.In the adobe StevensHouse (18 ), themuseum has itsco ection o pre-

Colum ian tri alartifacts, some of which are 2,000 years old. There is the SpanishColonial collection with somestunning pieces of religiousart. The 1850s Casa Cordovaouses E Nacimiento a

E Pima County Courthouse115 N C urc Ave.

The courthouse’s pretty tileddome is a downtown land-

mark. It was built in 1927,replacing its predecessor, aone-story adobe buildingdating from 1869. The posi-tion of the original presidio wa is mar e out in t ecourtyard, and a section of t e wa , 3- t 1-m t icand 12-ft ( -m) high, can stillbe seen inside the building.

P El PresidioHistoric District T e E Presi io HistoricDistrict occupies the area w ere t e origina Spanispresidio, San Agustin delTucson, was ui t in 1775.More t an 70 o t e ouseshere were constructed duringthe Territorial period, before Arizona became a state in 1912.

Today, these historic buildingsare largely occupied by shops,restaurants, and offices.However, arc eo ogica exca- vations in t e area ave ounartifacts from much earlier res-i ents, t e Ho o am In ians.

R St. Augustine Cathedral 192 tone Ave.§ 520 623-6351.

# ervices only; call for times.

St. Augustine Cat e ra was begun in 1896an mo e e a terthe Spanish Colonialstyle of the Cathedralof Querétaro incentral Mexico.This gleaming whiteuilding features an

imposing sandstoneaça e wit intricate

carvings o t e yucca, the saguaro,an t e orne

toad – three symbols of theSonoran Desert – while abronze statue of St. Augustine,the city’s patron saint, standsabove the main door.

Nativity scene wit more t an300 earthenware figurines, ondisplay from Decem er toMarch. The J. Knox Corbett House built in 1907, has Arts

and Crafts Movement piecessuch as a Morris chair.

Both guided and self-guided wa ing tours o t is istrictare available from the TucsonMuseum o Art.

Contemporary glass skyscrapers in downtown Tuscon

Exhibit at Arizona

University

Stained-glass window in the cathedral



8T U C S O N

ISI ORS HECKLIS

Road map C5.* 750,000.

k Tucson International, 10 miles

16 km south of downtown.

£ Amtrak Station, 400 E Toole

Ave.c Grey oun Lines, 2 S

4t Ave. n Metropo itan

Tucson Convent on & V s tors

Bureau, 110 S Church Ave,

(520) 624-1817, (800) 638-

8350._ La Fiesta e los

Vaqueros late Feb .

∑ www.visittucson.org

P Barrio Historic District This area was Tucson’sbusiness district in the late 19thcentury. To ay, its streets arequiet an ine wit originaadobe houses painted inrig t co ors. On near y Main

Street is t e “wis ing s rine”of El Tiradito, which marksthe spot where a young man

was killed as a result of alovers’ triangle. Local peoplelit candles here for his soul,and still believe that if theircandles burn for a whole night,their wishes will come true.

E University of Arizonan V s tors’ Center, 845 E Un vers ty

Blvd, Suite 145. § (520) 884-7516.

Severa museums are ocateon or near t e UA campus,about a mile (1.6 km) east of owntown. T e Arizona

Historical Society Museum traces Arizona’s history fromthe arrival of the Spanish in

1539 to modern times. The University of Arizona Museum of Art focuses onEuropean and American fineart rom t e Renaissance to t e20th century. Opposite the

museum is the enter for Creative Photography , whichcontains the work of many of the 20th century’s greatest American photographers. Visitors can view the archives y advance reservation. TheF an rau Science Center features a range of child-rien y interactive ex i its.

One of the most renownedco ections o arti acts, cover-ing 2,000 years o Nativehistory, is displayed by the Arizona State Museum which was founded in 1893.

£

n

h

EY

Train station

Visitor information

Parking

University of

Arizona

One of many 19th-century adobe houses in the Barrio Historic District

OWN OWN UCSON

Barrio Historic District5

El Presidio HistoricDistrict3

Pima County Courthouse2St. Augustine Cathedral4Tucson Museum of Art

& Historic Block1

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BEYOND DOWNTOWN, metropolitan Tucson exten snorth to the Santa Catalina Mountains, the oothills

o which are the start o a scenic rive to the top oMount Lemmon. To the west are the Tucson Mountains, which rame Saguaro National Park West. This park hasa sister park to the east of the city. To the south liesthe beautiful mission church of San Xavier del Bac,

which stands out from the flat, desert landscape of theTohono O’o ham In ian Reservation.

Exploring Around Tucson

Y Saguaro National Park 3693 S O Spanis Trai .

§ (520) 733-5153. # 9am–5pm

daily. ¢ Dec 25. & Loop Dr only.

7 ∑ www.nps.gov sagu

The saguaro (pronounced sa- wa -ro cactus is unique to t eSonoran Desert. The largestcactus species in t e US, it as

a i e span o up to 200 years.Those that survive into old agemay reach heights of up to50 ft (16 m) and weigh morethan 8 tons (7 kg).

Set up in 1994, the parkcomprises two tracts of landon t e eastern an western

an s o Tucson, t at toget ercover more t an 91,000 acres(36,800 ha). The 9-mile(14.5-km) Bajada Loop Driveruns deep into the park on adirt road, past hiking trails andpicnic areas. One of thesetrails leads to Hohokam petro-glyphs carved into volcanic

roc . T e eastern par as t eoldest saguaros, which can beseen a ong t e 8-mi e 13- mCactus Forest Drive. There area so more t an 100 mi es(1 0 km) of hiking trails here.The park offers guided walksuring the summer season.

E Arizona-Sonora Desert Museum 2021 N Kinney Rd. § (520) 883-

2702. # Mar–Sep: 7:30am–5pm;

Oct–Fe : 8:30am–5pm. & 7∑ www.desertmuseum.org

This fascinating natural history

park covers more than 21desert acres (8.5 ha), and in-c u es a otanica gar en, zoo,and natural history museum. At t e museum, isp aysdescribe the history, geology,an ora an auna o t eSonoran Desert region. Out-side, a 2-mile (3-km) walkway passes more than 1,200 vari-eties of plants, which provide

the setting for a range of crea-tures, including hummingbirds, wildcats, and Mexican wolves.

P Old Tucson Studios201 S Kinney Rd. § 520 883-0100.

# 10am–3pm Sun–Fri, 10am–4pm

Sat. ¢ T an sgiving, Dec 24, 25. &7∑ www.oldtucson.com

Mo e e on a Western town o

the 1860s, the park was builtas a set for a Western movie in1939. Since then, Old TucsonStudios has formed the back-drop for some of Hollywood’smost famous Westerns, such asGunfight at the OK Corral 1957 an Rio Bravo 1958 .

IGHTS AT A LANCE

Arizona-Sonora Desert

Museum 2Mount Lemmon 7Old Tucson Studios 3Pima Air & Space Museum

Saguaro National Park

(East & West) 1San Xavier del Bac Mission

See pp92–34

One of many flowering cacti at the

Arizona-Sonora Desert Museum

Vistas of tall saguaro cacti in

Saguaro National Park



BIRDWATCHING IN THE C ANYONS

F SOUTHERN A RIZONA

The landscape of Southern Arizona may seem dry, but this high desert environmentgets about 11 in (280 mm) of rain annually.This enables vegetation to flourish which, inturn, attracts a variety o ir s. In act, t e areais one o t e top ive ir watc ing ocations inthe US. Just off I-19, near Green Valley, MaderaCanyon plays host to some 00 bird species. Along with the more common varieties of hum-mingbirds, flycatchers, and warblers, many rare species, such as the brown-cresteflycatcher and the black-and-white warbler,are often sighted here. Farther afield, Ramsey Canyon in theHuachuca Mountains is the country’s hummingbird capital with 14 varieties of these tiny, delicate creatures.

T U C S O N

The popular 1970s TV series Little House on the Prairie wasa so i me ere. More recent- y, movies suc as The Three Amigos (1986) and Tombstone

1993 were part y s ot ere.Main Street’s 1860s frontier

atmosp ere provi es anauthentic setting for perfor-mers in period costume, whoentertain visitors with stuntshows, mock gunfights, andstagecoach rides. Visitors canalso take part in such activi-ties as panning for gold.

R San Xavier delBac Mission ee pp92–3.

E Titan Missi e Museum 1580 W Duval Mine Rd, Sahuarita.

§ (520) 625-7736. # 9am–5pm.

¢ Thanksgiving, Dec 25. & 89am–4pm. 7 ∑ www.p maa r.org

This remote site, 25 miles(40 km) south of Tucson, is

a great place to get in touch wit t e potentia orror othe Cold War years. Built in19 3, this is one of 18 Titan IIsi os constructe aroun t eTucson area (out of 54 in theUnited States . This stationand its single, multiple- warhead nuclear missile – thelargest ever built in the US – stood ready to launch within

minutes for over 20 years.Today, it is one of only tworemaining Titan II missi es

and launch sites left, as allthe others were ecommis-sioned by 1987. The museumtour includes a walk througt e ui ings an a peedown into the silo, followed y a visit to t e e ow-groun

missile launch facility anda oo at t e missi e rom wit in t e si o.

Davis-Mont an Air ForceBase displays more than2,000 planes, including B-29sand supersonic bombers.

Gunfig t stage outsi e t e

mission at Old Tucson Studios

Broad-billed ummingbird

Helicopters at the Davis-Monthan air base, near Pima Air & Space Museum

E Pima Air &Space Museum 6000 E Valencia Rd. § (520) 574-

4 2. # 9am–5pm. ¢ Thanksgiving,

Dec 25. & 7 ∑ www.p maa r.org

Located nine miles (14 km)southeast of downtown

Tucson, the Pima Air andSpace Museum contains one othe largest collections of aircra t in t e wor . Visitorsare met wit t e astonis ingsight of more than 250 vintageaircraft arranged in ranksacross the desert.

Three presidential jets aredisplayed – Eisenhower’s,Kennedy’s, and Johnson’s –

as well as a replica of the Wright brothers’ famous1903 aircra t. T e a jacent

E olossal CaveColossal Cave Mountain Park, PO Box

70, 16721 E Old Spanish Trail, Vail.§ (520) 647-7275. # i -

Mar–mid-Sep: 8am–6pm Mon–

Sat, 8am–7pm Sun; mid-Sep–

mi -Mar: 9am–5pm Mon–Sat,

9am–6pm Sun. & 8∑ www.colossalcave.com

The first European to discoverColossal Cave was SolomonLick in 1879, but he was arelative latecomer. The cave

was used by the Solobaipeople as early as 1 50, andlater by the Hohokam. A t oug opene or tours in1923, it as never een u y explored – it took over two years to map t e irst twomiles of the cave’s estimated39 miles (63 km) length. Visitors today take a 50-

minute guided tour that

escen s six stories intospaces draped in stalactitesan sta agmites. T e tour ison y a -a-mi e in engt , utrequires descending andclimbing 3 5 stairs. There areonger, more energetic toursavailable on Saturdays.

Colossal is a “dry cave” – itis no longer being shaped by water, and its ample air sup-

ply keeps the inside temper-ature at a comfortable 70°F21°C . T e cave is on t e

grounds of La Posta QuemadaBurne Station Ranc ,

name or a Sout ern Paci icstagecoach station, which wasestroye y a ire in 1875.




Tucson:San Xavier del Bac Mission

S AN XAVIER DEL BAC is the oldest and best-preservemission church in the Southwest. An imposing

landmark as it rises out of the stark, flat landscapeof the surrounding Tohono O’odham reservation, its

white walls dazzle in the desert sun. A mission wasfirst established here by the Jesuit priest Father Eusebio

ino in 1700 see p39 The complex seen today wascompleted in 1797 by Franciscan missionaries.

Built of adobe brick, the mission is considered to bethe finest example of Spanish Colonial architecture in theUS see p20). The church also incorporates other styles,including several Baroque flourishes. In the 1990s its

interior was extensively renovated, and five retablos altarpieces) have been restored to their original glory.

The Hill of the Cross, to the east

of the mission, offering fine views

The ell tower’s elegant, white dome reflects theMoorish styles that areincorporated into San Xavier’sSpanish Colonial architecture.

. Façade of the Church The ornate Baroque façade is decorated with the carved figures of saints (although some are mucheroded) including a headless St.Cecilia and an unidentifiableSt. Francis, now a simple sand cone.

Stonework Detail Over recent years thedentity of the carved statues

to the left of the entrance has

changed. Long thought to be St. Catherine of Siena and St. Barbara, they have now been identified as St. Agatha of Catania

and St. Agnes of Rome.

Painted Ceiling On entering the church,

visitors are struck by the dome’s ceiling with

its glorious paintings of religious figures.

Vivid pigments of vermilion and blue

were used to con ras with the stark white s one background.

S TAR SIGHTS

. Façade of theChurch

. Main Altar

The mortuary chapel contains

a statue of the Virgin Mary,surrounded

by candles.



T U C S O N

ISI ORS HECKLIS

Road map C5. 1950 W San Xavier

Rd, 10 miles (16 km) south of

Tucson on I-19. § 520 294-2624.

# 8am–5pm. 7 - booths

selling Native American fry bread.

= ∑ www.sanxaviermission.org

. Main Altar The spectacular gold

and red retablo mayor s

decorated in Mexican Baroque style withelaborate columns. More

than 50 statues were carved in Mexico, then

rought to San Xavier where artists gilded and

painted them withrightly colored glazes.

Altar DomeThe dome and high

transepts are filled with painted wooden

statuary and covered with murals depicting

s from the Gospels.

T e museumincludes a sheepskinpsalter and photographsof other historic missions onthe Tohono O’odham reservation.

hapel of Our Lady This statue is one of the church’s three sculptures of

Mary. Here she is shown as La Dolorosa or Sorrowing Mother.

The shopntrance




Observatories at Kitt Peak in Southern Arizona

} Sa ino Canyon Tours5900 N Sabino Canyon Rd. § (520)

749-2861. # 8am–4:30pm

Mon–Fri; 8:30am–4:30pm Sat–Sun.

Tram Tours: 9am–4:30pm. & 7

∑ www.sa inocanyon.com

The restless Sabino Creekbegan carving its way throughMount Lemmon, 13 miles (21km) northeast of Tucson, fivemillion years ago. The result was the lovely Sabino Canyon, with its towering rock wallsan spar ing streams ine with cottonwood trees. Today,motorize trams ta e visitors

on a 5-minute narrated tripinto the canyon. Tourists canget off at one of several stopsto hike on trails that rangerom easy to moderately difficult. Evening tram toursare also available at varioustimes of the year.

E Biosphere 2 Center 5 miles (8 km) NE of jct of Hwys 77

& 79. § 520 838-6200.

# 9am–4pm. ¢ Thanksgiving, Dec

25. & 7 8 ∑ www. io2.com

Biosphere 2 Center is aunique research facility that was set up in 1991. Eight

people were sealed within afuturistic structure of glassand white steel furnished with five of theEart ’s a itats:rainforest, desert,savanna, mars , anan ocean wit a ivingcoral reef. Over a periodof two years the effect of the people on the

environment as wellas the effect on them were studied.

Today, there are nopeop e iving in t eBiosphere, which is beinguse to exp ore t e e ect oincreased carbon dioxide int e atmosp ere. Visitors canta e a two- our gui e tour.There are two tours of the

interior, one of which incursan additional charge.

E Kitt Peak Observatory Rte 86 to 386. § (520) 318-8726.

# am– :45pm. ¢ Jan 1, T an s-

giving, Dec 25. & donation requested.

8 ∑ www.noao.e u/ pno/

Located 56 miles (90 km)southwest of Tucson, Kitt Peakboasts one of the largest and

most diverse collection of astronomical observatories

on the planet. It wasestablished as a

scienti ic centerfor the study of

astronomy in 1952. Visitors can ta e a gui -ed tour of the facility and get a close-up lookat (but not through)

several of the largestand most famous tele-scopes. To actually view the cosmos, you

ave to sign up up to a montin advance) for nightly pro-grams t at a ow you to scanthe heavens through telescopesat t e visitors’ o servatory. T egui e program, w ic runsfrom September to mid-July,

includes a sack dinner. Warmclothing is recommended.

} Mount Lemmon n (520) 749-8700.

The highest peak in the SantaCatalina Mountains, standing at9,157 t 2,790 m , MountLemmon is located in theCorona o Nationa Forest.During summer, thousands of visitors rive up on t e wee -en s or roc c im ing, i ing,camping, and fishing. A one-our drive, beginning in the

Tucson city limits and connect-

ing to the Mount LemmonHighway, takes visitors to thesummit. The highway affordssp en i vistas o t e Tucson va ey. T ere are aroun 150miles (240 km) of hiking trailsere, w i e a si e roa ea s

to the quaint resort village of Summer aven. A orest ire in2003 devastated parts of MountLemmon, resulting in road

closures Monday to Thursday.Call for current road schedule.

Space Age buildings of the Biosphere 2 Center, north of Tucson

Radio telescopet Kitt Peak



5

Yuma 7

Road map 4. * 65,000.

£ Amtra , 291 Gi a St. c rey-

hound, 170 E 17th Place. n Yuma

Convent on & V s tors’ Bureau, 377 S

Main St, (800) 293-0071.M∑ www.visityuma.com

UMA OCCUPIES a strategicosition at t e con uence

o t e Co ora o an Gi aRivers in Arizona’s far southwestern corner. T oug noteby Spanish explorers in the1 th century, it was not until

t e 1850s t at t e town rose toprominence, when the rivercrossing became the gateway to California for thousands of gold seekers. Later, Yuma wasa supply depot as riverboatssteamed up and down theCo ora o to in wit t e Seao Cortez. In t e ear y 20tcentury, Yuma was an impor-tant stop on t e irst ocean-

to-ocean transcontinentalroa t at en e in San Diego.Sadly, however, for much of the 20th century, Yuma was austy, bypassed border town.Today, Yuma’s hot, sunny

winter climate has ma e ita magnet for “snowbirds”escaping the northern cold.T eir swe ing num ers avebrought about a renaissance,

as t e town a s attractions,accommo ations, restaurants,and services.

The town’s first majorconstruction project was Yuma Territorial Prison in1876. Arizonans were morethan delighted to finally

Boats and watersports in the picturesque setting of Lake Yuma

Officer’s quarters, which dates

ack to 1855. As the townbecame an important junctionfor supplies, the military tookan interest, and built Fort Yuma in 1851, now owned y t e Quec an In ians. T eQuechan Indian Museum ,ouse in an 1855 a o eui ing, as isp ays on

the arrival of the Spanishmissionaries, t e 1781

Quechan uprising, and theistory of Fort Yuma.

P Yuma Territorial Prison State Historic Par 1 Prison Hill Rd. § (928) 783-4771.

# 8am– 5pm. ¢ Dec 25.

& 7 8P Yuma Crossing StateHistoric Par 201 North 4th Ave. § (928) 329-

0471. # 9am–5pm. ¢ Dec 25.& 7 E uechan Indian Museum Across the river from Yuma,

350 Picac o R , Winter aven, CA

92283. § (760) 572-0661. #8am–noon & 1pm–5pm.

¢ major hols. & 7

have a place to put away the

growing numbers of trainrobbers, polygamists, murder-ers, and outlaws. Criminals,on the other hand, were lessthan thrilled, as Yuma Prisona a notorious reputation or

stifling heat and brutal condi-tions. T e prison’s mostamous inmate was Jo nSwilling, sometimes called the“Fat er o P oenix,” w o

made big money selling realestate. He later tried robbinga stagecoach after falling onhard times. Visitors to the Yuma Territoria Prison State Historic Par k can seet e groun s an , in winter,ta e a gui e tour to earstories of the prison’s famousan in amous in a itants,guards, riots, and escapes.

Yuma’s istory as a cross-roads is highlighted at the Yuma Crossing StateHistoric Par . It featuresseveral buildings recon-structed to their 1870s appear-ance, including a telegraphoffice and the Commanding

Cell blocks at the historic, territorial prison in Yuma

S O U T H E R N A R I Z O N A



t e oot i s o t e mountains.The Puerto Blanco Driveta es aroun our ours anea s visitors t roug a rangeof landscapes from desert tothe oasis at Quitobaquito

Spring. A variety of hikingtrails in the park range inifficulty from paved, wheel-

chair-accessible paths to wi erness wa s. A visitor center offers

ex i its on t epar ’s ora anfauna, as well asmaps an campingpermits, and there

are guided walks in winter. Be aware thatthe park is a goodtwo-an -a-half- tothree-hour drive from

Tucson one way. If you want to exp ore t is environ-ment in any detail, plan tocamp overnight. Ajo, 34 miles55 m to t e nort , as

motels and services.


Organ PipeCactus NationalMonument 8

Road map B5. § 520) 387-6849. #

visitor center 8am –5pm. ¢ ec 25.& 7 8 M ∑ www.nps.gov/orp

HE ORGAN pipe isa Sonoran Desert

species of cactus, w ic is a cousinto the saguaro(see p90) but with multiple armsbranching up from

the base, as its namesuggests. The organpipe is rare in theUnite States, grow-ing a most exc usive y in this large and remote areao an a ong t e Mexicanborder in southwest Arizona.Many other plant and animalspecies flourish in thisunspoiled desert wilderness,

although a lot of animals,such as snakes, jackrabbits,and kangaroo rats, emergeon y in t e coo o t e nig t.Other cacti such as thesaguaro, t e Enge mannpric y pear, an t e te y-bear cholla are best seen int e ear y summertime w enthey give their gloriousdisplays of floral color.

There are two scenic rivesthrough the park: the 21-mile34-km Ajo Mountain Drive

and the longer 53-mile (85-m Puerto Blanco Drive.

T e Ajo Mountain Drive ta estwo hours and winds throughstart ing esert an scapes in

Tubac 9

Road map C5. * 150.

n Tubac Chamber of Commerce,

(520) 398-2704. ∑ www.tubacaz.com

HE ROYAL presidio (fortress)of San Ignacio de Tubac

was built in 1752 to protectthe local Spanish-ownedranches and mines, as well as the nearby missionsof Tumacacori and San Xavier, rom attac s y ocaPima Indians. Tubac was alsot e irst stopover on t e

amous over an expe itionto colonize the San FranciscoBay area in 1776. The trek was led by the fort’s captain, Juan Bautista de Anza see p39 . Following hisreturn, the garrison movednorth to Tucson, and for thenext 100 years, Tu acdeclined. Today, the townis a sma ut t riving art

colony, with attractives ops, ga eries, an restau-rants ining t e streetsaround the plaza.

Tu ac’s historical remainsare displayed at the TubacPresidio State HistoricPar which encompassesthe foundations of theorigina presi io in anunderground display, as

we as severa istoricui ings, inc u ing t e

delightful Old TubacSc oo ouse. T e Presi ioMuseum, which is alsosituated here, containsartifacts covering over 100 years of Tubac’s history,including painted altarpiecesand colonial furniture.

Rare cacti at the Organ Pipe Cactus National Monument

Mission church at Tumacacori National Historical Park near Tubac

Orange flowers of the barrel cactus






Tombstone w

Road map 5. * 6,500. n Cham er

of Commerce, 105 4th St, (520) 457-

9317. ∑ www.tombstone.org

HE TOWN of Tombstone isa living legend, forever

known as the site of the 1881gunfight at the OK Corralbetween the Earp brothersand the Clanton gang (see p25). The town’s historicstreets an ui ings ormone of the most popularattractions in t e Sout west.

Tom stone was oun eby Ed Schieffelin, who wentprospecting on Apache landin 1877 despite a warningthat “all you’ll find out thereis your tombstone.” Hefound a mountain of silverinstead, and his sardonically name s anty town oome with the ensuing silver rush.One o t e wi est towns in

the Wild West, Tombstone wassoon u o prospectors,gam ers, cow oys, anlawmen. In its heyday, thetown was larger than SanFrancisco. More than $37million worth of silver wasextracte from the minesbetween 1880 and 1887, whenminers struc an aqui er anflooded the mine shafts.

In 19 2 “the town too toughto ie” ecame a NationaHistoric Landmark, and, withmuc o its istoric own-town immaculately preserved,

it attracts many visitors, alleager to sample the uniqueatmosphere. Allen Street, withits woo en oar wa s,s ops, an restaurants, is t etown’s main thoroughfare.T e K Corra is preserveas a museum, and re-enactments o t einfamous gunfight

between the Earprothers, Doc

Holliday and theClanton gang arestaged dailyat 2pm.

Tom stoneCourt ouse oToughnut Street was t e seat ojustice for the county from

1882 to 1929, and is now aState Historic Site. It containsa museum featuring therestored courtroom, and many historical exhibits and artifacts,

Re-enactment of the gunfight at the OK Corral, Tombstone

including photographs of some of the town’s famouscharacters. Toughnut Streetuse to e nown as “RottenRow” as it was once ine with miners’ tents, bordellos,

an more t an 100 ars. Among ot er ui ings

worth looking for in thedowntown area is

the Rose TreeInn Museum home of what isreputedly the world’s largest

rosebush.T ere is a sot e Bir Cage Theater once a aw y

dance hall and bordello, and

so-named for the covered“crib” compartments, or cages,hanging from the ceiling, from which la ies of the night plietheir trade. Nearby is the oncerowdy Crystal Palace Saloon, w ic is sti a ar.

Just north of town, the well-nown Boot i Cemetery

is u o t e graves o t ose who perished in Tombstone,

peace u y or ot erwise.This evocative place is not without the occasional spot o

umor. Look for the markerlamenting the death of George Johnson, hanged by mistake in 1882, which reads:“He was right, we was wrong,ut we strung im up, an

now he’s gone.”

E OK Corral Allen St. § (520) 457-3456.

# 9am–5pm. ¢ Dec 25. & 7∑ www.ok-corral.com

E Tombstone Courthouse219 E Toughnut St. § 520 457-

3311. # 8am–5pm. ¢ Dec 25.

& 7 ∑ www.pr.state.az.usBoardwalk in Tombstone

Tombstone Courthouse in the

town center, now a museum



S O U T H E R N A R I Z O N A

Amerind

Foundation r

§ 520) 586-3666. # 10am–4pm.

¢ Jun–Sep: Mon & Tue; public hols.

& ∑ www.amerind.org

HE AMERIND Foundationis one o t e most impor-

tant private archeological andet no ogica museums in t ecountry. The name Amerindis a contraction o “AmericanIn ian,” an t is co ectioncontains tens of thousandsof artifacts from differentNative American cultures. All

aspects of Native Americanlife are shown here, withdisplays covering Inuit masks,Cree too s, an scu ptee igy igures rom Mexico’sCasas Grandes.

T e a jacent Amerin ArtGallery has a fine collectiono Western art y suc promi-nent artists as William Leigh

Chiricahua

National

Monument t

Road map D5. § (520) 824-3560.

# 8am–4:30pm daily. ¢ Dec 25.

& 7 8 M∑ www.nps.gov/chir

HE CHIRICAHUA Mountains were once the homelan

of a band of Apache people,an an impenetra e ase rom w ic t ey aunc e attac son settlers in the late 1800s.This 12,000-acre (480-ha) areanow preserves amazing rocformations, which were created y a series of volcanic erup-

tions around 27 million yearsago. Massive rocks balancedon small pedestals, soaringrock spires, and enormousstone columns make up thebizarre landscape, viewedrom t e monument’s scenicrive an i ing trai s.The nearby town of Willcoxouses t e intriguing Rex

Allen Arizona Cowboy

M useum which is devoted toa native son who ecame afamous movie cowboy, starringin 19 films in the 1950s.

E Rex Allen Arizona Cowboy Museum 155 N Railroad Ave. § (520) 384-

4583. # 10am–4pm. ¢ public

ols. & 7

(1866–1955) and FredericRemington (1861–1909).T e e ig t u pin ui ings,esigne in t e Spanis

Colonial Revival style (see

p20 , are a so o interest.

Kartchner Caverns

State Park

Road map C5. § 520) 586-

4100. # 7am–6pm (cave tours8:30am– 4:30pm by reservation).

¢ ec 25. & 7 8 obligatory. M∑ www.pr.state.az.us

THE KARTCHNER Caverns areone of Arizona’s great

natura won ers. Locate inthe Whetstone Mountains, thecaves were discovered in 197 when two cavers crawledt roug a sin o e in a

i si e t at e t em into 7acres (3 ha) of caverns filled with colorful formations. Outof concern to protect thecaves, they kept their discov-ery a secret for 14 years asthey explored this wonder-an o spe eot erms, or caveormations, ma e o ayers ocalcite deposited by drippingor owing water over mi ions

of years. In 1988 the land waspurc ase y t e state, ut ittook 11 years to complete thedevelopment that would allowpublic access while conserv-ing the special conditions thatenable these “wet” caves tocontinue growing.

Before entering the caves, visitors are intro uce to t egeology of the formations at

t e Discovery Center. Onceinsi e, visitors must not toucthe features, as skin oils stoptheir growth. Along with hugestalactites and stalagmites,there is an abundance of other types of formation sucas the aptly named 21-ft(132-m) high soda straw, theturnip s ie s, an popcorn.

Orange and white column

formations at Kartchner Caverns

Massive rock spires formed by million-year-old volcanic eruptions at Chiricahua National Monument





Railroad

State boundary

Highway

Interstate

Major highway

EY

0 miles 40

40

40

191

666

550

550

160

160

89

371264

L i t t

l

C o l o

r a

o

Mon

ce o

staffgl

ameron

Ga

up

ayenta

C am ers

Chinl

n

x c

rWa

Counselor

Montrose

gway

agosa

Te ur e

H E O U R O R N E R S

D

OMINATED BY a Navajoreservation the size of

Connecticut, an pre-senting sweeping panoramaso mesas, canyons, an vastexpanses of high desert, theFour Corners is perfect fort ose wanting to experienceNative culture and the real West. A t oug it receives ess t an 10 in

(25 cm) of rainfall per year, this aridan as supporte i e since t e irstPa eo-In ians arrive a out 12,000

years ago. The Anasazi, today knownas t e Ancestra Pue oan peop es,ived here from about AD 500 until the13t century. T ey are responsi e or

t e many evocative ruinsoun ere, inc u ing t ose

at Mesa Verde, Chaco Canyon,an Hovenweep NationaMonument. Their descendantsinc u e t e Hopi, w ose pue osare sai to e t e o est continu-ously occupied towns in North

America. T e Navajo arrive ere in t e15th century and their spiritual centeris Canyon de Chelly with its 1,000-ft330-m ig re roc wa s.Monument Valley’s impressive land-

scape as een use as a ac rop orcountless movies and TV shows. Theregion is also popular for hiking, fish-ing, an w itewater ra ting.

Dramatic rock formations, known as “the Mittens,” in the Navajo Nation’s Monument Valley

A R I Z O N A & T H E F O U R C O R N E R S A R E A B Y A R E A 0

Towns & C t esH stor

Aztec

Blanding

Bluff 8Farmington

lanado & Hubbe

Trading Post

Tuba City

3 w Rock

&National Par

onuments

onal

Canyon de Chelly Na Monument

ational Chaco Culture

menCorners MonuFour

alepove at

National Park a Verde Me

uonal Monumentajo NatNa 2

as o Natural Beauty Ar

Plateau Tour lorado

t Valley

Monume

1




FROM SCENIC HIGHWAY 1 3, which crosses theorder of Utah and Arizona, it is possible to see

the famous towering sandstone buttes and mesasof Monument Valley. These ancient rocks, soaringupward from a seemingly boundless desert, havecome to symbolize the American West, largely because Hollywood has used these breathtaking

vistas as a ack rop or hun re s o movies, TV shows, an commercials since the 1930s

The area’s visitor center sits within the oun ary o Monument Valley Tri al Park, ut many o the

valley’s spectacular rock ormations an other

sites are oun just outsi e the park oun ary.

Monument Valley 1

uided Tours

A row of kiosks at the visitor center offers Navajo-guided 4WD

tours of the valley. The marketing tactics can be aggressive, but the tours offer an excellent way to

see places in the park that are otherwise inaccessible.

Art & Ruins Petroglyphs such

as this deer can be seen on Navajo- guided tours of

rock art sites,which are dotted

around the valley’s ancient ruins.

E XPLORING THE V LLEY

The awe-inspiring beauty of Monument Valley’s buttesmesas can e viewe y travelers from Highway Visitors can also pay a f to trave on a 17-mi e 2km) self-guided drive ala we -mar e irt roa .(Fees are collected at

t e visitor center. A ternative y, Navajoguides may be hiredor hiking, horseback,or 4WD tours tofascinating and less- visite parts o t e va e .

Three Sisters

The Three Sisters are one of several distinc-

tive pinnacle rock formations at Monument Valley.Others include the

Totem Pole and the “fingers” of the

Mittens. The closest view of the sisters can be seen from

John Ford’s Point,and is one of the most photographed

sights here.

errick Butte

t Mitten

rd’s

nt

Le t Mitten Mit

km

miles

20

20

Major highway Highway

Park boundary

State boundary




T H E F O U R C O R N E R S 1 0 3

John Ford’s Point

The most popular stop along the valley drive is John Ford’s Point, which is said to be the film director’s favorite viewof the valley. Various stands offer a range of Navajo handi-crafts. A nearby hogan (see p107) serves as a gift shopwhere Navajo weavers demonstrate their craft.

ISI ORS HECKLIS

Road map C2.

n PO Box 360289, Monument

Valley, 435 727-5870.

# sunrise–sunset. ¢ Dec 25.

& 7 visitor center on y.

8 = 0 M∑ www.navajonationparks.org

Gouldings LodgeThe lodge offers accommodations,

a restaurant, and guided bus tours of the valley. The original

trading post is now a museum of the valley’s cinematic history.

Navajo Weaver Navajo women are usually considered to be the finest

weavers in the Southwest.One rug can take months tocomplete and sells for thou-

sands of dollars. Using the natural colors of the land,the weavers often add a“spirit line” to their workto prevent their spirit being “trapped” within the rug.

MONUMENT

V LLEY

Monument Valley is not reallya valley. The tops of the mesasmark what was once a flat plain.Millions of years ago, thisplain was cracked by upheavals

within the earth. The cracks widened and eroded, until allthat is left today are the forma-tions rising from the desert floor.




Tuba City 3

Road map C2.* 17,300.n TubaCity Trading Post, (928) 283-5441.

AMED FOR TUUVI, a HopiIndian who converted to

the Mormon faith, Tuba City isbest known for the 65-million- year-old dinosaur tracks foundjust off the main highway,5 miles (8 km) southwest of the town. Beyond that, this is

t e argest community in t e western section of the NavajoReservation an is a goo spotrom w ic to exp ore otthe Navajo National Monumentand the Hopi Reservation.

Navajo NationalMonument

Road map C2.§ 928 672-2700.

# 8am–5pm.¢ Jan 1,

Thanksgiving, Dec 25.8 M∑ www.nps.gov/nava

AMED BECAUSE of itsocation on t e Navajo

Reservation, this monumentis actua y nown or its Ancestral Puebloan ruins. Themost accessi e ruin ere ist e eauti u y preserve ,135-room pueblo of Betatakin, which fills a vast,curved niche in the cliffs of

Tsegi Canyon. An easy one-mile (1.6-km) trail from the visitor center leads to anover oo w ere Betata in isc ear y visi e on t e ar si e,near the canyon floor. This isa ove y i e t roug piñonpines and juniper trees. Fromate May to ear y Septem erthere are daily six-hour hikingtours to Betatakin, which

allow a close look at the ruinsof these ancient houses. A much more demanding

17-mi e 27- m i e ea s toKeet Seel a more impressiveruin. On y a imite num er

of permits to visit the ruin areissue eac ay. T is i erequires overnig t camping ata site with only the mostasic facilities. Keet Seel was

a larger and more successfulcommunity than Betatakin.Construction began on Keet

Seel in about 1250, but thesite is t oug t to ave eena an one y 1300.

These two sites are consid-ere to mar t e pinnac e odevelopment of the area’s Ancestra Pue oan peop e.

Ancestral Puebloan ruins of Keet Seel at Navajo National Monument

Historic pueblo town of Walpi on First Mesa at Hopi Indian Reservation

Hopi IndianReservation

Road map C3.* 10,000.

n Hwy 264, Second Mesa,(928) 734-2401.# May–Sep:

am– 9pm; Oct–Apr: 7am–8pm.

¢ Jan 1, Thanksgiving, Dec 25.

A IZONA’S ONLY PuebloIndians, the Hopi see

pp22–3 are e ieve to edirect descendants of the Ancestra Pue oan peop e, or Anasazi. The Hopi Reservationis surroun e y t e an s o

t e Navajo. T e an scape isharsh and barren, yet the Hopiave cultivated the land here

for a 1,000 years. They wor-ship, through the achina, theiving spirits of plants andanimals, believed toarrive eac year tostay wit t e tri eduring the grow-ing season. Most

of the Hopi villagesare ocate on ornear one of threemesas, or flat-toppedelevations nameFirst, Second, andThir Mesa. Theartisans on eacof the mesas spe-cia ize in particu arcrafts: on First Mesa

t ese are carveigures representing t ekachina spirits and paintedpottery; on Second Mesa,silver jewelry and coilebaskets are made; and onThird Mesa, craftspeoplefashion wicker baskets and woven rugs.

Wa pi t e ancient pue oon First Mesa, was first inhab-

ite in t e 12t century. Toreach Walpi, visitors drive upto t e Mesa rom t e Po acasett ement to t e vi age oSichomovi. Nearby, the Ponsi Visitor Center is the departure

Kachina

igure



T H E F O U R C O R N E R S 1 0

Window Rock 6

Road map D2.* 4,500.cn Hwy 264, (928) 871-6436.

HE CAPITAL OF the NavajoNation, the town is named

for the natural arch found inthe san stone cliffs locatea out a mi e nort o t e mainstrip on Highway 12. The

Navajo Nation Museum located

ere is one o t eargest Native Ameri-can museums in theUS. Opened in 1997,the huge hogan-

shaped buildingouses displays that cover the

history of the AncestralPue oans an t e Navajo.

E Navajo Nation Museum Hwy 264 & Post Office Loop Rd.§(928) 871-7941.# 8am–5pm Mon;

8am–8pm Tue– Fri; 9am–5pm Sat.

point for the one-hour Walpitours. Walpi was built to beeasily defended, and straddlesa dramatic knife edge of rock,exten ing rom t e tip o FirstMesa. In p aces Wa pi is essthan 100 ft (33 m) wide witha rop o severa un reeet on ot si es. T e Wa pitour includes several stops where visitors can purchase

kachina figurines and distinc-tive hand-crafted pottery, orsample the Hopi pi i bread.

Those wishing to shopfurther can continue on toSecond Mesa, where galleriesan stores o er an array oHopi arts an cra ts. T eHopi Cultural Center is homeo a res auran see p141 anthe only hotel (see p131) for

miles around, as well as amuseum that has an excellentcollection of photographsepicting scenes of Hopi life.On Third Mesa, Old Oraibi

pueblo, thought to have beenoun e in t e 12t century,is of note only because of c aims t at it is t e o estcontinua y occupie umansettlement in North America.

P Walpi n (928) 737-2262. Walking tours

available 9:30am– 3pm.&

Ganado &Hubbell TradingPost 5

Road map .* 4,500.n Hu el Trading Post, Hwy 264, (928) 755-3475.

A MALL BUSTLING town inthe heart of the Navajo

Reservation, Gana o’s majorattraction is the Hubbell Tra ing Post Nationa

H stor c S te. Esta lished inthe 1870s by John LorenzoHubbell, this is the oldestcontinually operating tradingpost in the Navajo Nation.Trading posts like this one were once the economic andsocia centers o t e reserva-tions. T e Navajo tra esheep, wool, blankets,turquoise, an ot er items in

exchange for tools, householdgoods, and food. The tradingposts were also a resourceduring times of need. When asmallpox epidemicstruck in 1886, JohnLorenzo helped careor t e sic , using ishouse as a hospital.

To ay, t e tra ingpost still hums with

tra itiona tra ingactivities. One room is a working general store, therafters hung with frying pansand hardware, and shelvesstacked with cloth, medicines,an foo . Another room isfilled with beautiful hand- woven rugs, Hopi achina

Eroded sandstone opening of Window Rock, near Highway 12

olls, and Navajo baskets. Another department has aong row o g ass cases is-p aying an impressive array osilver and turquoise jewelry.

Visitors can tour Hu e ’srestored home and view asigni icant co ection oSouthwestern art. At the visitor center Navajo women

emonstrate rug weaving.

P Hubbell Trading Post Nationa Historic SiteA2264, near Ganado.n (928) 755-

3254.# May–Sep: 8am–6pm;

ct–Apr: 8am–5pm.¢ Sun & public/ tribal hols.∑ www.nps.gov/hutr

A range of merchandise in the general store at Hubbell Trading Post

Navajo bracelet at Hubbell Trading Post



Canyon de Chelly National Monument 7

FEW PLACES IN North America can boasta longer or more eventful history of

human habitation than Canyon de Chelly. Archeologists have found evidence of fourperiods of Native culture, starting with theBasketmaker people around AD 300,followed by the Great Pueblo Builders, who created the cliff dwellings in the 12thcentury. They were succeeded by the Hopi,

who lived here seasonally for around 300 years,taking advantage of the canyon’s fertile soil. In the1700s, the Hopi left the area and moved to the mesas,

returning to the canyon to farm during the summermonths. Today, the canyon is the cultural angeographic heart of the Navajo Nation. Pronounce“d’Shay,” de Chelly is a Spanish corruption of theNative name Tsegi , meaning Rock Canyon.


avajo FortressThis imposing rock tower was the site of athree-month siege in 1863–64, when a groupof Navajos reached the summit via pole ladders to escape Kit Carson and the US army.The persistence of Carson and starvation led them to surrender and they were marchedto a camp in New Mexico (see p109).

Mummy Cave RuinThese two pueblos, separated by a central tower, were built in the 1280s by Ancestral

Puebloans, who had inhabited the caves for more than 1,000 years. An overlook provides a good view of this impressive ruin.

Yucca House Ruin Perched on the mesa top, this ruin of an Ancestral Puebloan

house sits in a rock hollow,recariously overhanging a sheer drop to the valley floor.

Flowering cactus

Stone and ado e cliff dwellings were home to the AncestralPuebloans from the 12th to the14th centuries and were builtto face south toward the sun, with cooler areas within.



Hogan Interior The hogan is the center of Navajo

family life. Made of horizontal logs,

it has a smoke hole in the center to

provide contact with the sky, while the dirt floor gives

contact with the earth. A door faces

east to greet the rising sun.

Canyon LandscapeThe sandstone cliffs of

Canyon de Chelly reach as high as 1,000 ft (300 m),

towering above the neighboring meadows

and desert landscape inthe distance. The canyon floor around the cliffs is

fringed with cottonwood ushes, watered by the

Chinle Wash.

M ASSACRE C AVE

T e canyon’s ar est our was in 1805, w en a Spanisforce under Lieutenant Antonio Narbona entered the area.The Spanish wanted to subdue the Navajo, claiming they were raiding their settlements. While some Navajo fled by climbing to the canyon rim, others took refuge in a caveigh in the cliffs. The Spanish fired into the cave, and

Narbona boasted that he had killed 115 Navajo including90 warriors. Navajo accounts are different, claiming thatmost o t e warriors were a sent pro a y unting anthose killed were mostly women, children, and the elderly.T e on y Spanis ata ity came w en a Spaniar attemptingto c im into t e cave was attac e y a Navajo womanand both plunged over the cliff, gaining the Navajo name“Two Fe Over.” T e Ang o name is “Massacre Cave.”

T H E F O U R C O R N E R S 1 0 7


Road map D2. 2 miles (3.5 km)

east o Chinle & I-191. n PO Box

588, Chinle, (928) 674-5500. #8am–5pm. ¢ Dec 25. 7 partial.

8obligatory (except White House).

0 = ∑ www.nps.gov/cach

The pale walls of the White House cliff drop550 ft (160 m) to thecanyon floor.

Pictograph on a canyon wall

showing invading Spanish soldiers

W HITE H USE R UINS

This group of rooms, tucked into a tiny hollow in the cliff, seems barely touched by time. The dwellings were originally situatedabove a larger pueblo, much of which hasnow disappeared. The only site within thecanyon that can be visited without a Navajoguide, it is reached via a steep 2.5-mile(5-km) round-trip trail that winds to the

canyon floor and offers magnificent views.




C ANYON DE CHELLY is startlingly i erentrom the sparse esert lan scape that

sprea s rom its rim. Weathere re rock walls, just 30- t 9-m high at the canyonmouth, rise to more than 1,000- t300-m high within the canyon, creatinga sheltere worl . Navajo hogans (see p107) ot the can on loor Nava o women trugs at ou

Ancestral Puebloan ruNavajo-led 4WD tou

South Rims are a po

Exploring Canyon de Chelly

Antelope House Ruin

Named for a pictograph of anantelope painted by Navajo artists in the 1830s, Antelope House has ruins dating from AD 700. They can be seen from the Antelope

House Overlook.

Canyon Tour Half- and full-day touThunderbird Lodge carry passen-

gers in open flatbed or large 6WD army trucks. Of varying lengthand difficulty, the tours are the best way to see ruins up close.

Tsegi Overlook This high curve along the South Rim offers

good general views of the farm-studded canyon floor and surrounding landscape.

Canyon Vegetation Within the canyon, cothe river washes; the l meadows, alfalfa and

Navajoranger

0 km

0 miles

3

3



M

∆

n

J

T H E F O U R C O R N E R S 1 0

Hiking in the CanyonCanyon de Chelly is a popular destination for hikers, but only the White House Ruins Trail may be walked without a guide. The visitor center (see p107) offers Navajo-guided hikes on trails of varying lengths.

er Rock ng more than 800 ft (245 m),is where, according to Navajonds, Spider Woman lived and e them the skill of weaving.

K EY

Highway

Hiking route

Campground/RV

Picnic area

Visitor in ormation

Viewpoint

Park boundary

IT C ARSON AND THE “L NG W LK ”In 1863, the US government sent Kit Carson under thecommand of General James A. Carlton to settle the problem of Navajo raids. To avoid outright slaughter Carson led his soldiersthrough the region, destroying villages and livestock as the

Navajo fled ahead of them. In January 1864, Carsonentere Canyon e C e y, capturing t e Navajohiding there (see p106). They were among 9,000Navajo w o were riven on t e “T e Long Wa ,” a

forced march of 370 miles (595 km) from Fort

De iance to Bosque Re on o in New Mexico.T ere, in a piti u reservation, more t an3,000 Navajo died before the US governmentaccepted the resettlement as a failure andallowed them to return to the Four Corners.

Fur trapper and soldier Kit Carson (1809– 8)




Blanding 9Road Map D1. * 3,800.

n 12N Hwy 191, (435) 678-3662.

∑ www.blandingutah.org

A IDY MORMON own ahe base of the Abajo

Mountains, B an ing is ometo the Edge of Cedars StateP ark (see pp11 –17). T e

par contains mo est Ancest-ral Puebloan ruins, including asmall iva, or religious cham-ber. The park museum has well thought-out displays onthe history of these ancientpeople and other cultures thatave in a ite t e region.

Bluff 8

Road Map D1. * 300. n Blanding

V s tor Center, 12N Hwy 191,

(435) 678-3662. M

HE CHARMING TOWN of Bluf was settled in 1880 by

Mormons who dynamited their

way through Glen Canyon’srock walls along what is now calle the Hole-in-the-RockRoad. Float trips along theSan Juan River inc u e stopsat Ancestral Pueblo ruins thatcan e reac e on y y oat.

ENVIRONS: About 12 miles20 km) north is a 17 mile

(27 km) dirt road through

the Valley of the Gods.Li e Monument Va ey see pp102–3), it features highroc spires, uttes, an mesas,ut none o t e crow s. On

a quiet day, visitors mayave he place all to them-

selves and imagine what itooke like to the first settlers.

HovenweepNationalMonument 0

Road Map D1. East of Hwy 191.

§ 970 562-4282. # Oct 31–Apr

30: 8am–5pm; May 1–Oct 30:

8am–6pm. ¢ Jan 1, Thanksgiving,

Dec 5. & 8 M∑ www.nps.gov/hove

NE OF THE MOST mysterious Ancestra Pue oan sites

in the Southwest, theHovenweep ruins ie a ongt e rim o a s a ow canyon.These well-preserved ruins, which include unique round,square, and D-shaped towers,have neither been restorednor rebuilt. Indeed, they lookmuch as they did when W.D.

Huntington, ea er o aMormon expedition, first cameupon the site in 1854. The site was named in 187 , after an

Ute MountainTribal Park q

Road Map D2. n Junction of Hwys160 & 666, (800) 847-5485. # pr–

Oct: 8am–3:30pm daily; Nov–Mar:

8am–3pm Wed–Sat. & 8 obligatory.

HE RUINS of Ute MountainTribal Park are one of the

better-kept secrets of theSouthwest. The AncestraPuebloan people first arrivedhere in about AD 400. They

c ose y o owe t e Mesa Verde (see pp118–19) patterno eve opment, creatingnumerous magni icent c i

Dramatic mesas an uttes in t e Va ey of t e Go s near B uf

Ancient brick tower at Hovenweep National Monument

E ge of Ce ars State Par n Park Museum, 660 W 400 N,

435 678-2238. # mi -May–mi -

Sep: 9am–7pm; mi -Sep–mi -May:

9am–5pm. ¢ Thanksgiving, Dec 25.

& M∑ www.stateparks.utah.gov

Ute word meaning “Deserte Valley.” Little is known of thepeop e w o in a ite t eseruins, an researc ers avespeculated that the towers atHovenweep mig t ave eene ensive orti ications,

astronomical observatories,storage silos, or the commu-

nity’s religious structures.The six separate sets of

ruins at Hovenweep can be visited by walking alongeither of the two self-guidingtrails that link them.



1 1T H E F O U R C O R N E R S

Four CornersMonument NavajoTribal Park w

Road Map D2. Junction of Hwys 160

& 41. § 928) 871-6647. # May– Aug: 7am– 8pm; Sep– Apr: 8am–5pm.

¢ Thanksgiving, Dec 25. & 7∑ www.navajonationparks.org

THERE IS SOMETHING o y compelling about being

a e to put one oot an anin eac o our states. It is t e whole premise of the FourCorners Monument – the only

place in the US where fourstates meet at one point.

Chaco CultureNational HistoricalPark e

See pp112–13.

Farmington r

Road Map D2. * 0,000. ~ cn 3041 E Main St, (505) 326-7602.

∑ www.farmingtonnm.org

A USTY HARD- WORKING ranchtown, Farmington is a

goo ase or exp oring t esurrounding monuments. It is

ome to one o t e mostunusual museums in theSout west. T e Bolack Museum of Fish & Wildlifecovers over 30,000 sq ft (2,800sq m) and houses the largestaccumulation of mountegame animals in the world. Itis ivi e into nine themegame rooms, including A rican, Asian, European, an

Russian. T e museum’snewest addition is a 10,000sq t 929 sq m isp ay oelectromechanical equipmentt at traces America’s go enage of development in elec-trical power generation andTV and radio broadcasting.

T e armington Museum focuses on the history andgeo ogy o t e area. A newexhibit, “From Dinosaurs toDrillbits,” features a simulated

ri e own insi e an oil well.The museum also offerspopular interactive displaysor adults and children.

ENVIRONS: About 25 miles0 km) west of Farmingon is

Shiprock , named for thespectacular 1,500-ft ( 57-m)rock peak that thrusts up fromt e va ey oor a out 5 mi es

8 m west o town. To t eNavajo, this rock is sacred,and to early Anglo-Americansettlers it was a landmark thatreminded them of a ship’sprow. Now it is possible forsightseers to observe the peakon y rom t e roa si es oHighways 4 or 33.

The Salmon Ruins, whichonce ouse a C aco sett e-

ment, are situated 8 miles12 m to t e sout . T ese

ruins were protected fromgrave diggers by the Salmonamily, who homesteadedhere in the 1870s. As a result,a century later archeologistsrecovere more t an a mi ionartifacts, many of which areon isp ay in t e museum atthe site.

E Bo ac Museum ofFish & Wildlife3901 Bloomfield Hwy. § (505)

-4 7 . # am– pm Mon–

Sat, appointment only. & 78 obligatory.

∑ www.bolackmuseum.com

E Farmington Museum 3041 E Main St. § 505 599-1174.

# 8am–5pm Mon–Sat. & 7 8

∑ www.farmingtonmuseum.org

Aztec t

Road Map 2. * 6,000. n 110

North Ash St, (505) 334-9551.

HE SMALL TOWN of Aztec was named for its ruins,

which are Ancestral Puebloanand not Aztec as early settlersbelieved. Preserved as a

National Monument, the site’s500-room pue o was a our-ishing settlement in the late1200s. Visitors can oo insi ea re ui t kiva (see p3 )

T Aztec Ruins National Mon ument N of Hwy 516 on Ruins Rd. § (505)

34-6174. # 8am–5pm daily to 6pm

May–Sep). ¢ Jan 1, Thanksgiving, Dec

25. & 7 8 ∑ www.nps.gov/azru

The spectacular red peak of Shiprock near Farmington

Interior of t e Great Kiva at

Ancestral Puebloan Salmon Ruins

wellings, including the 80-room Lion House. These ruinsave ew visitors ecause o

t eir inaccessi i ity. Visitorscan use their own vehicles

an join t e tours e y ocaUte guides, or pay an extrac arge to e riven.

T Sa mon Ruins6131 Hwy 64. § (505) 632-2013. #8am–5pm Mon–Fri; Apr–Oct: 9am–

pm at un; Nov–Mar: 9am–5pm

Sat, noon–5pm Sun. ¢ Jan 1, Easter,

T an sgiving, Dec 25. & 7 8




Chaco Culture National

Historical Par e

osho

withthat co

largat 3 acre

hetro Ketl hathan 500 rooms. T e

asonry used to build the later portions of this structure is among the most sophisticated

found in any Ancestral Puebloan site.

Cas

Also known Rinconada is the largchamber at Chaco, measuring62 ft (19 m) in diameter. It was used for spiritual gatherings.

CHACO CANYON IS one of the most impressive

cultural sites in the Southwest, reflectingthe sophistication o the Ancestral Pue loancivilization (see pp36–7) that existe here.

With its six “great houses” an many lessersites, the canyon was once the political,

religious, an cultural center or settlements that coveremuch o the Four Corners. At its peak uring the 11thcentury, Chaco was one o the most impressivColum ian cities in North America.it is thought that Chaco’sthe lan coul not

Archeologistsceremono lei

Arrowhead at

Chaco Museum



1 1 3

Pueblo Alto Pueblo Alto was

built atop the mesaat the unction of

several ancient Chacoan roads. Reaching the site

equires a two-hour hike, but the views

over the canyon h it.

ISI ORS HECKLIS

Road map D2. 3 miles 5 km

SE of Nageezi off US 550.

n C aco Cu ture Visitor

Center 505 786-7014.

# 8am–5pm. ¢ public

hols. & 7 8∑ www.nps.gov/chcu

M

∆

n

XPLORING CHACO

The site is accessed via a16-mile (26-km) dirt roadthat is affected by flashfloo s in wet weather.Drivers can follow the pavedoop roa t at passes severao C aco’s ig ig ts. T ereis parking at all major sites.

From t e visitor center, atrai ea s to Una Vi a anthe petroglyphs.

ji

part in ceremonial events.

Totem Pole Rock at Monument Valley Navajo Tribal Park

ers at Fajada Butte time was vital to the op planting and the . A spiral petroglyph, Butte, is designed toing seasons through it casts on the rock.

0

0 miles

EY

Highway

Unpaved roa

Hiking route

Campground/RV

Picnic area

Visitor information

Park boundary

7950

T H E F O U R C O R N E R S







191

160

163

163


Valley of the Go s4 A 17-mile (27-km) long dirtroad winds through this valley of eroded red rockspires. Recommended forhigh-clearance vehicles, thisroad presents the remote

beauty of the Southwestthat existed before modernroads were built.

Archeologists are stillarguing the purpose of he round and squareowers built along thiscanyon (see p110)

THE HAUNTING BEAUTY of the high plateau country, withits deep canyons and ancient, mysterious ruins, is the

star of this tour, which follows some of the loneliest butloveliest roads in America. This area is very popular withhiking, mountain biking, river paddling, and WD enthu-siasts. The plateau rises from around 2,000 ft ( 10 m)in elevation near Monument Valley to over 7,000 ft(2,134 m) at Monticello, Utah. The area is dotted withthe ruins of the Ancient Puebloan civilization. Some,such as Hovenweep and Mesa Verde, were largecomplex towns, while others, for instance the ruins atEdge of Cedars State Park on a vast plain below the

snowcapped Abajo Mountains, were small outposts.

Colorado Plateau Tour y

n

n

oosenecks State Park5 A set of incredibly tightswitchbacks on the San

Juan River give thisoverlook its name. The

viewpoint is 1,500 ft(457 m) above the sinuouscurves of the river, which

travels 6 miles (9.7 km)to move 1.5 miles(2.4 km) forwar

B uf 3This appealing small to

was founded by harMormon pioneersToday, it makesbase for explregion, andstarting prafting to

San Ju(see p

Monument Valley6Made famous through Westernmovies, the valley’s buttes andbluffs were once ground level,before wind and water sculptedthe landscape (see pp102 –3).



163

191

262

262

262

41

666

160

666

191 666

141

84

145

160

1 1 7

at es scattered around

the cliffs and canyons of this 1,000-ft (305-m) high

esa is among the bestpreserved in the

Southwest see pp118

19)

Y

Tour route

Other roads

n


IPS FOR RIVERS


When to go: Spring and fall.

Snow in winter is a possibility.

Stopping-off points: he best

bets for restaurants and accom-

modations are Blu and Cortez.

Note: This route can be driven in

either direction. There are long

distances, up to 50 miles (80

km), without services, so fill up

the gas tank, and review desert

driving safety (see p160).

5

5

n

n

Edge of Cedars State Park2These small, well-preserved ruins are dwarfed by the




r


THIS HIGH, FORESTED mesa overlooking theMontezuma Valley was home to the Ancestral

Puebloan people (see pp36–7) for more than 700 years. Within canyons that cut through the mesaare some of the best preserved and most elaboratecli wellings uilt y these people. Mesa Ver e,meaning “Green Ta le,” was a name given to thearea by the Spanish in the 1700s, but the ruins werenot widely known until the late 19th century. Thissite provides a fascinating record of these peoplerom the Basketmaker perio , eginning aroun

AD 550, to the complex society that uilt the

many-roome cli wellings etween1000 an 1250. Displays at the Far View Visitor Center an the Chapin MesaMuseum provi e a goo intro uction.

Mesa Verde National Park u

Guided Tours Ranger-led tours give visitors a chance toactually enter the ruins and get a feel ofthe daily lives of these ancient people.

Spruce Tree HouseTucked into a cliff niche, these three-story structures were robably home to as many

as 100 people.

CLIFF ALACE

With 150 rooms, this is the largest AncestralPuebloan cliff dwelling found anywhere,

and is the site that most visitors focus on. Thelocation and symmetry su c-

ture was importantaround 1200

0 km

0 miles

5

5

E XPLORING HE P ARK

tors start at Chapin Mesa, which hasest concentration o sites. A pave rive leads around the mesa and

ver oo s o er exce ent views.

K EY

Scenic route

n


anger station

Park boundary



1 1


Road map D2. n PO Box 8,

Mesa Verde, 970 529-4465. ~Cortez.# Far View Visitor Center:

ear y Apr–mi -Oct: 8am–5pm;

C apin Mesa Arc aeo ogica

Museum: 8am–6:30pm Apr–Oct

8am–5pm Nov–Mar. & 7 8- = 0 ∑ www.nps.gov/meve

Balcony House Possibly built for defense, Balcony House could not be seen from above, and access was (and still is)difficult. Visitors on tours must climb three ladders high above the canyon floor, then crawl throughan access tunnel.

Square Tower House Early cowboys named this ruin for the prominent, tower-like central structure, which was actually a vertical stack of rooms that was once surrounded by

other rooms. It may have beenused as a dwelling or for ceremonial purposes.

Wetherill Mesaong House

A scenic 12-mile17-km) drive on a

winding mountainroad leads to

Wetherill Mesa,amed for the local rancher, Richard

Wetherill, who found Cliff Palace in the

1880s. Two cliff dwellings here, Step

and Long houses, are open to visitors.

The 23 kivas or religiousrooms at this site are thoughtto indicate that at least 23 clanslived here at various times.

Towers wereprobably used forsignaling or aslookouts for defense.






W H E R E T O TAY 122–131

H E R E T O AT 132–141

S O P P I N G I A R I Z O N A 142–147

T E RTA I NM E NT I N R I ZO 148–149

S P E C I A LT Y A CAT I O NS

& A C T I V I T I E S 150–155

R A V E L E R S ’N E E D S



T R A V E L E R S ’ N E E D S2

A

ZONA HAS A ong istory oospitality that is reflected int e wi e variety o accom-

modations availa le. From lavisive-star resorts to simple rustico ges, t ere is a wea t ooptions for visitors. You canchoose modern or historichotels, cozy bed-and-breakfasts,inns, convenient motels, or fully equippe apartments. For t ose

seeking Western-style adven-ture, there are dude ranches, many of

which provide luxurious lodgings withhorseback riding and outdoor activities.

Accommodations in all pricecategories usua y o er privatebathrooms in addition to clean,

comforta le rooms. Historic hotelsprovi e a g impse into Arizona’s

early, pioneering years, and theo y areas o t ese impressivehotels are worth a visit even

when staying elsewhere.Hote prices in t e region

tend to vary according to

season. T e istings provi eon pages 124–31 recommend places ina price ranges, eac representingt e est o t eir in or t at area.

O EL LASSIFICA IONS

HE TOURIST industry throughout Arizona is

recognized for quality odgings. A guideline totravelers is the diamond ratingsystem of the American andCana ian Automo i e Associations (AAA and CAA).

Every accommo ation, romthe one-diamond motel to theive- iamon resort ote , israte or service, c ean iness,and the facilities offered. AAA mem ers also enefitrom discounts when they book in advance.

T AXES

A COMMODATION tax variesacross the region as it is

charged by both state and city or county governments.Expect to pay between 10 an1 percent of the room pricein tax. Prices given for hotelsin t is oo inc u e taxes.

HAIN OTELS& MOTELS

OR THE MOST PART, you can

count on efficient service,mo erate prices, an com-fortable (if bland) surround-ings at a c ain ote . T emost popular chains includeHoliday Inn Comfort InnBest Western Ramada InnsEconolodge and Super 8.Particularly good value aresuite hotels, such as ountry Inn and Suites and Embassy

Suites, w ic o erliving rooms anditc enettes or itt e

more t an t e cost oa basic hotel room.Chain hotels alsooffer central reservation systems thatcan help you find aroom at peak times.Motels provide rooms

t at are usua yaccessible from the

par ing area. T ey are o tenthe only option in remoteareas, an can vary romnostalgic Route places(see pp28–9) to such bargainlodgings as Motel 6.

ELS

N ARIZONA, hotels come inevery shape and size,

including historic showplaces,such as Grand Canyon’s ElTovar (see p125), originally uilt to impress East Coast

investors an prove t at t eSouthwest was an exciting

tourist estination.Today, some of themost avis ote s in Arizona are argeresort hotels locatedin the Scottsdale andPhoenix area. Aprime example is theBoulders Resort anGolden Door Spa inScotts a e (see p129)

wit its two c ampi-onship 18-hole golf courses, tennis courts, angourmet dining. The areasaroun Se ona, P oenix, anTucson are famous for othluxury health spas and golf resorts. Small, independently

H E R E T O T A Y

Teepees at the Wigwam Motel along Route 66 in Holbrook, Arizona

owned “boutique” hotels offeropulent facilities combined with an intimate atmosphereand attentive service.

There are also many hotels

aimed specifically at businesstravelers, offering weekly rates, an computer an axoutlets in rooms, althought ese services are nowavailable in a range of hotels.

Weatherford Hotel ign in Flagstaff

A hotel in the Best

Western chain

One of the oldest establishments on Route 66 – Joe & Aggies Cafe in Holbrook



W H E R E T O S T A Y 1 2

HISTORIC INNS &BED-&-B EAKFASTS

HERE ARE hundreds of exce ent inns, an e -

an - rea asts ocatethroughout Arizona.Generally, inns are larger,

with more spacious publicareas and a dining room. Bed-and-breakfast establishmentstend to be more homey. Bothinns and bed-and-breakfastsmay be found in restored orreconstructe istoricui ings, an many are

located in charming Victorianouses in istoric towns.

These lodgings pride them-

selves on providing a warm welcome and friendly service.For bookings, contact Arizona Association of Bed & Brea fast Inns Ar zona Trails Bed & Breakfast Reservation Service, anMi Casa Su Casa .

ESTERN OTELS

& D UDE R ANCHES

F YOU VE EVER wanted toin u ge your “Wi West”

antasies, t ere are p enty ohistoric hotels in which to doso. Between 1880 and 1920, Western towns gained prestigethrough the quality and gran-eur of their hotels, and many

boast extravagantly ornateecor. To ay, many o t em

ave een restore an o ergreat settings for a vacation.Prescott’s Hassayampa Inn(see p126), for example, withits gran o y an attractiverooms, is both a historic hoteland an oasis for a relaxing,pampered stay.

C AMPGROUNDS ARKS

C AMPGROUNDS FOR ot tentsand RVs (recreational

ve ic es are oun a over

Arizona, an are especia y popular in the national parks.The National Forest Serviceprovides information on forestcampgrounds, which rangerom extremely basic to those

with running water andlimited RV hookups.

Dude ranches offer visitorsthe chance to experience Western life. They firstappeared in the 1920s – thename “dude” is a colloqui-a ism meaning “a city- we erunfamiliar with life on therange.” C oices range rom

relaxing vacations thatinc u e eisure y orse acri es to wor ing ranc es where you participate in suchactivities as cattle roundups.Meals, accommodations, andhorses are usually includedin the price. Arizona has aDude Ranch Association toe p you in t e per ect

Western vacation.

Barbecue on the Lazy K Dude

Ranch near Tucson

Jeanette’s Bed-&-Breakfast in Flagstaff

HAIN OTELS

Best Western § (800) 528-1234.

omfort Inn § (800) 221-2222.

ountry Inn & Su tes§ (800) 456-4000.

Econolodge§ (800) 424-4777.

Embassy Suites§ (800) 362-2779.

Holiday Inn § 800 465-4329.

ama a Inns§ 800 272-6232.

Super 8

§ (800) 800-8000.

ISTORIC NNS

ED-&-BREAKFASTS

Arizona Association of Bed & Breakfast InnsCare o Aabbi President, 11770

Rambling Trail, Tucson, AZ

85747.§ 800) 284-2589.

∑ www.arizona-bed-

reakfast.com

Arizona Trails Bed &Brea fast Reservation Serviceox 18998, Fountain Hills,

AZ 85269.§ 888) 799-4284.

∑ www.arizonatrails.com

M Casa Su Casa ox 950, Tempe, AZ 85280.

§ 800 456-0682.∑ www.azres.com

UDE ANCHES

Arizona Dude Ranch Assoc at on

ox 603, Cortaro, AZ 85652.

∑ www.azdra.com

AMPGROUNDS

ARKS

National Forest Service333 Broadway SE, Albuquerque,

M 87102.

§ 877 444-6777.

∑ www.reserveusa.com

DIRECTORY



R E S T A U R A N

T

N U M B E R O F R O O M S

C H I L D R E N ’ S F A C I L I T I E S

G A R D E N / T E R R A C E

S W I M M I N G

P O O L

T R A V E L E R S ’ N E E D S1 2

G RAND C ANYON & N RTHERN IZONA

BOULDER CITY E Rancho Bou der Mote \\

38 725 Nevada Way, NV 89005. § (702) 293-1085.

With its 1940s architecture, the El Rancho Boulder Motel has clean roomsand is within walking distance of the town center. Ù µ h /

C AMP V ERDE: Camp Verde Comfort Inn \\ 85 340 N Goswick Way, AZ 86322. § (928) 567-9000, (866) 302-2300.

` 928 567-1828. ∑ www.com ortinn.com A straightforward but well-kept chain motel, near several of the state’s most interestingsights. Ù µ 7 h /

C AMP V ERDE: Hacienda de la Mariposa Bed & Breakfast \\\\ 5 3875 Stagecoach Rd, AZ 86322. § (928) 567-1490, (888) 520-9095.

∑ www. amariposa-az.com Lovely resort on Beaver Creek nearMontezuma Castle, with large guest rooms in a Santa Fe-style building.Ù µ h z ≥ ç , /

CO ONWOOD Best Western Cottonwood Inn \\ 77 993 S Ma n St, AZ 86326. § 928) 634-5575, (877) 377-6415. ` (928) 634-5576.

∑ www.cottonwoodinn-az.com The Best Western group has built a pleasant,spacious hotel here, with comfortable rooms. Ù µ 7 h /

FLAGSTAFF : Hotel Monte Vista \\ 50 100 N San Francisco St, AZ 86001. § (928) 779-6971, (800) 545 3068.

` (928) 779-2904. ∑ www.hotelmontevista.com Many rooms in this 1920shotel are named after famous guests who stayed here, such as Bob Hope.Ù µ h /

FLAGSTAFF : Hote Weather ord \\ 10 23 N Leroux St, AZ 86001. § (928) 779-1919. ` (928) 773-8951

.

∑ www.weatherfordhotel.com The 1890s Weatherford is one of Flagstaff’smost distinctive hotels. Its rooms are decorated in antique style. Ù h /

FLAGSTAFF : Arizona Mountain Inn \\\ 204200 Lake Mary Rd, AZ 86001. § (928) 774-8959, (800) 239-5236. ` (928) 774-8837.

∑ www.arizonamountaininn.com Set amid ponderosa pines south of town thisinn provides B&B suites and rustic cabins. Many rooms offer views of thepines. Ù 7 h ≥ ç √ , /

FLAGSTAFF : Hilton Garden Inn \\\ 90 350 W Forest Meadows St, AZ 86001. § (928) 226-8888, (800) 548-8690.

` (928) 556-9059. ∑ www.hilton.com This modest, medium-sizedestablishment provides everything from an ironing board to a microwavein each of the rooms. Ù µ 7 h ÷ /

FLAGSTAFF : Litt e America Hote \\\ 247 2515 E But er Ave, AZ 86004. § 928 779-2741, 800 865-1401.

` (928) 779-7983. ∑ www.flagstaff.littleamerica.com This comfortable resortcomplex is set among pine trees, to the east of downtown Flagstaff.Ù µ 7 h ÷ /

FLAGSTAFF : Star ight Pines Bed-&-Brea ast \\\3380 E Loc ett R , AZ 86004. § 800 752-1912.

This appealing B&B in a Victorian-style house has antique-filled rooms. A gourmet breakfast is included in the room price. Ù h /

FLAGSTAFF : Sled Dog Inn \\\ 1010155 Mountainaire Rd, AZ 86001. § (928) 525-6212, (800) 754-0664.

` (928) 525-1855 . ∑ www.sleddoginn.com Modern mountain lodge inponderosa pine woods south of Flagstaff. The full breakfast is servedfamily-style. Ù 7 h z ≥ ç √ , /

C oosing a Hote

HOTELS HAVE BEEN selected for good value, excellent facilities,or location. This chart lists them by region in the same

order as the guide. The color codes of each region are shown onthe thumb tabs. Entries are alphabetical within price category.Prices given are in-season rates but always enquire as rates can

vary from week to week and between weekdays and weekends.



W H E R E T O S T A Y 1 2 5

FLAGSTAFF Inn at 10 \\\\ 9 410 N Leroux St, AZ 86001. § (800) 774-2008. ` (928) 774-6354.

∑ www. nn410.com Distinctive rooms in a restored 1907 Craftsman-stylebungalow. Most rooms have fireplaces. Ù 7 h z ≥ ç , /

FLAGSTAFF: Radisson Wood ands Hote F agsta \\\\ 183

1175 W Route 66, AZ 86001. § 928 773-8888, 800 333-3333.` (928) 773-0597. One of the best chain hotels in town, this well-equippedestablishment has excellent health and fitness facilities. Ù µ 7 h ÷ /

G RAND C ANYON: Bright Angel Lodge \\ 89 Grand Canyon South Rim, AZ 86023. § (303) 297-2757, (888) 297-2757. ` (303)

297-3175. ∑ www.grandcanyonlodges.com Popular with hikers, it offersfrugal rooms in its 1930s lodge, as well as appealing log cabins. Ù h /

G RAND C ANYON: Best Western Grand Canyon Squire Inn \\\ 250 Hwy 64, AZ 86023. § (928) 638-2681, (800) 622-6966. ` (928) 638-2782.

∑ www.gran canyonsquire.com Large modern rooms and many activities,

including bowling, tennis, whirlpool, and sauna. Ù µ h ) = z eç √ , ÷ å /

G RAND C ANYON: Phantom Ranch \\\ 40 Grand Canyon, AZ 86023. § (303) 297-2757, (888) 297-2757. ` (303) 297-

3175. ∑ www.grandcanyonlodges.com Among the cottonwoods down in thecanyon are a central lodge and timber cabins in a stunning setting. /

G RAND C ANYON: Grand Canyon Quality Inn & Suites \\\\ 232 SR 64, AZ 86023. § (928) 638-2673, (800) 221-2222. ` (928) 638-9537.

∑ www.grandcanyonqualityinn.com This Southwest-style inn has spaciousrooms, most of which have patios. The large atrium has a lounge, trees,

flowers, and a restaurant. Ù µ 7 h z e ç √ , å /

G RAND C ANYON: Grand Hotel \\\\ 121 SR 64, AZ 86023. § (928) 638-3333. ` (928) 638-3131. ∑ www.visitgrandcanyon.com

Comfortable, modern hotel with rustic flair. Rooms are tastefully decorated,and some have balconies. Ù µ 7 h ) z e ≥ ç √ , /

G RAND C ANYON (NORTH R IM): Grand Canyon Lodge \\ 205 Bright Angel Point, Grand Canyon, AZ 86052. § (303) 297-2757, (888) 297-2757.

` (928) 638-2554. ∑ www.grandcanyonnorthrim.com The only in-parkaccommodation on the North Rim, this lodge has cabins and a few modernrooms. Advance reservations are essential. ¢ Oct–May. Ù 7 h /

G RAND C ANYON (NORTH R IM): Kaibab Lodge \\ 29 Ar zona 67, AZ 86003. § (928) 638-2389. ∑ www.kaibab.org

The lodge is located in the pine and aspen woods beside a meadow in theKaibab National Forest, just five miles from the entrance to the North Rim.Cabins are rustic with wood floors. ¢ Nov–mid-May. Ù h ç √ , /

G RAND C ANYON V LLAGE: Maswik Lodge \\\ 278 Grand Canyon South Rim, AZ 86023. § 303) 297-2757, (888) 297-2757.

` (303) 297-3175. ∑ www.grandcanyonlodges.com Popular with families, it islocated at the west end of the village near the South Rim. Ù µ 7 h /

G RAND C ANYON V LLAGE: Thunderbird & Kachina Lodges \\\ 100

Grand Canyon South Rim, AZ 86023. § 303) 297-2757, (888) 297-2757. ` (303)

7- 17 . ∑ www.gran canyon o ges.com The two modern lodges offerdeluxe accommodation very close to the South Rim. Ù µ 7 h /

G RAND C ANYON V LLAGE: Yavapai Lodge \\\ 358 Grand Canyon South Rim, AZ 86023. § (303) 297-2757, (888) 297-2757. ` (303)

297-3175. ∑ www.grandcanyonlodges.com Motel-style rooms in the pine andjuniper woods beside the visitor center. ¢ Nov–Mar . Ù µ 7 h /

R ESTAURANT

Hotel restaurant or dining room usually opento non-residents unless otherwise stated.

HILDREN’S F ACILITIES

Cribs and a baby-sitting service available.Some hotel restaurants have children’s portionsand high chairs.

ARDEN/TERRACE

Hotels with a garden, courtyard, or terrace.

WIMMING P OOL

Hotel with an indoor or outdoor swimming pool.

Price categories for a standarddouble room per night, inclusiveof service charges, and anyadditional taxes:

\ under US$50

\\ US$50–$100

\\\ US$100–$150

\\\\ US$150–$200

\\\\\ US$200 plus R E S T A U R A N

T

N U M B E R O

R O O M S


G A R D E N T E R R A C E

S W I M M I N G

P O O L

For key to symbols see back flap




G AND C ANYON V ILLAGE E Tovar Hote \\\\ 78 Gran Canyon Sout Rim, AZ 86023. § (303) 297-2757, (888) 297-2757.

` (303) 297-3175. ∑ www.grandcanyonlodges.com This Edwardian hotel offersthe most sumptuous accommodation in Grand Canyon National Park.Some rooms have panoramic views of the canyon. Ù ∫ µ 7 ≥ h /

HOLBROOK Wigwam Village Motel \ 15811 W Hop Dr, AZ 86025. § 928) 524-3048. Wigwam architecture has madethis motel a Route 66 icon. Cozy interiors and original hickory furniture.Ù h z √ , /

HOLBROOK Ramada Limited \\ 2 2608 E Navajo B v , AZ 86025. § 800 272 6232. ∑ www.rama a.com Modernrooms in a standard Ramada motel. Ù µ h z ç √ , /

JEROME Ghost City Inn \\\ 541 N Main St, AZ 86331. § 928 634-4678, 888 634-4678.

∑ www.ghostcityinn.com In a handsome Victorian villa, this well-maintained

inn has tastefully decorated bedrooms and fabulous views. Ù µ h ≥ /K INGMAN Best Western A Way arer’s Inn \\ 100 2815 E Andy Devine Ave, AZ 86401. § (928) 753-6271, (800) 548-5695. ` (928)

753-9608. This well-kept hotel is up to the chain’s usual high standards, with a pool and indoor spa. Buffet breakfast is included. Ù µ h ÷ /

K INGMAN Hote Brunswic MAN Hote Brunsw \\ 2 315 E Andy Devine Ave, AZ 86401. § (928) 718-1800. ` (928) 718-1801.

∑ www.hotel-brunswick.com Built in 1909, this restored hotel offers roomsdecorated with quilts and antiques. Ù µ 7 h ) z e ç √ , /

AKE AVASU CI Y Ramada Inn \\ 193 271 S Lake Havasu Ave, AZ 86403. § (928) 855-1111, (800) 528-5169. ` (928)

855-6228. ∑ www.ramada.com Recently revamped, this hotel offers spaciouselegant rooms and is a short walk from London Bridge. Ù µ 7 h /

AKE AVASU CI Y Is and Inn \\\ 117 1300 McCulloch Blvd, AZ 86403. § (928) 680-0606, (800) 243-9955. ` (928)

680-4218 ∑ www.havasumotels.com Located on the island less than a milefrom London Bridge, it offers standard rooms and a heated swimmingpool and whirlpool. Ù µ 7 h ) z ç √ , å /

L AKE H AVASU CITY : Nautical Inn Resort & Conference Center \\\ 139

1000 McCulloch Blvd, AZ 86403. § (928) 855-2141, (800) 892-2141. ` (928)

855-8460. ∑ www.nauticalinn.com Spread along Lake Havasu’s shore, itappeals to both family vacationers and conference organizers. Watersports are available. Ù µ 7 h ≥ / å

L AKE H AVASU CITY : ands Vacation Resort \\\ 42 2040 Mesquite Ave, AZ 86403. § (928) 855-1388. ` (928) 453-1802.

∑ www.sands-resort.com Standard rooms, outdoor swimming pool, whirlpool and exercise room. Ù µ 7 h z ç √ , ÷ å /

P RESCOTT: Hotel St. Michael \\ 9 205 W Gurley St, AZ 86301. § (928) 776-1999, (800) 678-3757. ` (928) 776-7318.

∑ www.stmichaelhotel.com This 1900s hotel is located on Whiskey Row, astreet of saloons in 1900. Clean, old fashioned rooms have a charming back-in-time style. Coffee shop onsite. Ù µ 7 h ) = z e ç √ , /

P RESCOTT: Hassayampa Inn \\\\ 7 122 E Gurley St, AZ 86301. § (928) 778-9434, (800) 322-1927. ` (928) 445-8590.

∑ www.hassayampainn.com This sophisticated, elegant hotel opened in1927, and remains one of the best places to stay in Prescott.Ù µ 7 h ) z e ç √ , ÷ å /

R ESTAURANT


CHILDREN’ F ACILITI ES


G ARDEN/TERRACE


S WIMMING P OOL



\ under US$50

\\ US$50–$100

\\\ US$100–$150

\\\\ US$150–$200


T

N U M B E R O

R O O M S



S W I M M I N G

P O O L




SEDONA Star Motel \\ 11

295 Jordan Rd, AZ 86336. § (928) 282-3641.

Conveniently located in the center of Sedona, this unassuming moteloffers some of the most reasonably priced rooms in town. Ù µ h /

SEDONA : Cozy Cactus B&B \\\ 5 80 Canyon Circle Dr, AZ 86351 § (928) 284-0082, (800) 788-2082. ` (928)

284-4210. ∑ www.cozycactus.com Excellent family lodgings at this affordable,scenic ranch house B&B on the southern outskirts of Sedona. Ù h /

SEDONA : Sky Ranch Lodge \\\ 94 1105 Airport Rd, AZ 86339. § (928) 282-6400, (888) 708-6400. ` (928) 282-

7682. ∑ www.skyranchlodge.com Located at the top of Airport Mesa, this lodgeoffers a variety of rooms with great views. Ù µ h z ≥ ç √ , /

SEDONA : Apple Orchard Inn \\\\ 7656 Jordan Rd, AZ 86336. § (928) 282-5328, (800) 663-6968.

` (928) 204-0044. ∑ www.appleorchardbb.com Beautiful and luxuriousrooms, in varying Wild West decor. Gourmet breakfast is included, and acooling pool and spa are available. Ù µ h z ≥ ç √ , /

SEDONA : Enchantment Resort \\\\\ 238 525 Boynton Canyon Rd, AZ 86336. § (928) 282-2900, (800) 826-4180. ` (928)

282-9249. ∑ www.enchantmentresort.com A ritzy complex of adobe-stylehouses, hidden away in the beautiful Boynton Canyon. Ù µ 7 h ÷ /

W ILLIAMS: anyon Country Inn \\ 12442 W Rte 66, AZ 86046. § (928) 635-2349, (877) 405-3280.

∑ www.t egran canyon.com/canyoncountryinn/ Located downtown, this inn

has homey rooms with private baths, and serves a Continental breakfast.Ù µ h z ç √ , /

W ILLIAMS: Mountainside Inn \\ 9 642 E Rte 66, AZ 86046. § (928) 635-4431, (800) 462-9381. ` (928) 635-2292.

Tucked away among pine trees, the Mountainside Inn offers tidy rooms,and is a convenient base for Grand Canyon. Ù µ 7 h /

W ILLIAMS: rand Canyon Railway Hote \\\ 297

235 N Gran Canyon B v , AZ 86046. § 928 635-4010, 800 843-8724. ` 928

635-2180. ∑ www.thetrain.com This elegant hotel, next to the terminus of theGrand Canyon Railway, has a stately wood-beamed hall. Ù µ 7 h ÷ /

W INSLOW : La Posada \\\ 37 303 E 2nd St (Route 66), AZ 86047. § (928) 289-4366. ` (928) 289-3873.

∑ www. aposa a.org Great railroad-era hotel built in 1930 offers distinctiverooms with private baths. Ù µ 7 h z ç √ , /

P HOENIX & SOUTHERN RIZONA

A PACHE J UNCTION Express Inn \\ 40 1101 West Apac e Trai , AZ 85220. § 480 982-9200. ` 480 671-6183.

Convenient for the Apache Trail, this small and intimate hotel has views of the Superstition Mountains, and serves a lavish breakfast. Ù µ 7 h /

BISBEE: hady Del \\ 10 1 Doug as R , AZ 85603. § (520) 432-3567.

Unique accommodation in vintage 1950s aluminum trailers, set in a1927 trailer park. Original decor includes black-and-white TVs. h

BISBEE Bis ee Grand Hote \\\ 161 Main St, AZ 85603. § (520) 432-5900, (800) 421-1909. ` (520) 432-5900.

∑ www.bisbeegrandhotel.com This romantic restored Wild West-style hotelhas a pressed-tin ceiling in the saloon. All rooms have private baths, butsome are across the hallway. Ù µ h ) z ≥ ç , /

BISBEE Copper Queen Hotel \\\

8 11 Howe Ave, AZ 85603. § 520 432-2216. ` 520 432-4298.

∑ www.copperqueen.com Atmospheric, late 19th-century hotel, decorated inperiod style. A list of sightings of resident ghosts is available. Ù µ 7 h /

D UGLAS The Gadsden Hotel \\ 1 0 1 4 Ave, AZ 5 7. § (520) 364-4481. ` (520) 364-4005.

∑ www.theriver.com/gadsdenhotel/ Opened in 1907, this historic hotelhas sumptuously decorated rooms and public areas. Ù µ 7 h /




DRAGOON Triang e T Guest Ranch \\ 8 I-10 exit 318, Dragoon Rd, AZ 85609. § & ` 520 586-7533

∑ www.triangletguestranch.com Historic ranch in Texas Canyon close toKartchner Caverns and Tombstone. Comfortable cabins. Ù 7 h /

G EEN V LLEY Best Western Green Valley \\ 108

111 S La Caña a, AZ 85614. § 520 625-2250, 800 344-1441. ` 520 625-0215.∑ www. estwestern.com A great base for exploring San Xavier mission andMadera Canyon. Heated pool and spa. Ù µ h /

MESA Saguaro La e Ranch Resort \\\ 25 13020 Bush Hwy, AZ 85206. § 480 984-2194. ` 480 380-1489.

∑ www.saguarolakeranch.com Rustic resort with quaint, well-maintainedrooms, swimming pool, and hiking and riding trails. Provides a great basefor outdoor activities. ¢ late May–Sep. Ù 7 h z ≥ ç √ , /

P HOENIX Ramada Inn Downtown \\ 163 401 North 1st St, AZ 85004. § 602 258-3411, 800 272-6232. ` 602 258-3171.

∑ www.ramada.com Situated in the downtown core near the conventioncenter, the rooms here are stylish, brisk, and business-like. Ù µ 7 h /

P HOENIX : unshine Hotel & Resort \\ 274 3600 N 2nd Ave, AZ 85031. § (602) 248-0222. ` (602) 265-6331.

∑ www.sunshinehotel-az.com Extensive facilities including a well-equippedgym, four pools, and a spa. Ù µ 7 h ÷ /

P HOENIX : Best Western Central Phoenix Inn \\\ 107 1100 N Central Ave, AZ 85004. § (602) 252-2100, (800) 528-1234. ` (602) 252-

2731. ∑ www. wcpi.com In the heart of the downtown business area, thischic hotel provides a free airport shuttle. Ù µ h ÷ /

P HOENIX : Econo Lodge & Suites \\\ 48 202 E McDowell Rd, AZ 85004. § (602) 528-9100. ` (602) 258-7259.

∑ www.econolodge.com An inexpensive option, this simple, downtownhotel is within easy walking distance of the Heard Museum. Ù µ 7 h /

P HOENIX : Hotel San Carlos \\\ 133 202 N Central Ave, AZ 85004. § (602) 253-4121, (866) 253-4121. ` (602) 253-6668.

∑ www. ote sancar os.com Located at the heart of downtown Phoenix, thisdesignated historic hotel has rooms decorated in tasteful style. Ù µ /

P HOENIX : Hyatt Regency Phoenix \\\\\ 712 122 N 2nd St, AZ 85004.

§(602) 252-1234, (800) 233-1234

`(602) 254-9472.

∑ www.hyatt.com This downtown hotel has modern rooms decorated inSouthwest style, with an atrium lobby, revolving restaurant, swimming pool,and whirlpool. Ù µ 7 h ) = z e ∫ ç √ , ÷ å /

P HOENIX : Pointe At South Mountain Resort \\\\\ 40 7777 S Pointe Par way, AZ 85044. § 602 438-9000, 877 800-4888. ` 602 431-

6535 . ∑ www.pointesouthmtn.com In the hills south of Phoenix, this resortoffers every amenity, including golf and four restaurants. Ù µ 7 h ÷ /

P HOENIX : Ritz-Car ton Hote \\\\ 281 2401 E Camelback Rd, AZ 85016. § 602) 468-0700, (800) 241-3333.

` 602 468-0793. ∑ www.ritzcar ton.com This hotel occupies a moderntower with Neo-Classical flourishes. Large, comfortable rooms.Ù ∫ µ 7 h ÷ /

P HOENIX : Arizona Biltmore Resort & Spa \\\\\ 74 2400 E M ssour Ave, AZ 85016. § 602) 955-6600, (800) 950-0086.

` 602 381-7600. ∑ www.arizona i tmore.com Designed by Frank Lloyd Wright, this 1930s hotel has excellent facilities and grounds.Ù ∫ µ 7 h ÷ /

T R A V E L E R S ’ N E E D S1 2 8

R ESTAURANT




G ARDEN/TERRACE


S WIMMING P OOL



\ under US$50

\\ US$50–$100

\\\ US$100–$150

\\\\ US$150–$200


T

N U M B E R O F

R O O M S



S W I M M I N G

P O O L



HOENIX Royal Palms Hote \\\\\ 117 5200 E Camelback Rd, AZ 85018. § 602) 840-3610, (800) 672-6011.` 602 840-6927. ∑ www.roya pa ms ote .com Spanish Mediterranean hotel with a restful atmosphere, courtyards, and gardens. Ù ∫ µ 7 h )z e ç √ , ÷ å /

P HOENIX : The Wigwam Resort \\\\\ 331 300 E Wigwam B v , AZ 85251. § 623 935-3811, 800 327-0396. ` 623 535-1309. ∑ www.wigwamresort.com The resort boasts three 18-hole golf courses,two pools, and a choice of fabulous restaurants. Ù ∫ µ 7 h ÷ /

P INETOP -L AK ES ID E: Lake of the Woods \\\ 35 2244 W White Mountain Blvd, AZ 85929. § (928) 368-5353.∑ www.privatelake.com Cabins are located near the resort’s private lake.Canoes are available for touring the lake. Ù 7 h ≥ √ , ÷ /

SCOTTSDALE: Ramada–Scottsda e \\\ 92 6935 5th Ave, AZ 85251. § (480) 994-9461, (800) 553-2666. ` (480) 947-1695.

∑ www.rama a.com Spacious rooms in a standard motel centrally locatednear the Fifth Avenue shopping district. Ù µ h z ç √ , ÷ /

SCOTTSDALE: Hyatt Regency Scottsda e Resort at Gainey Ranch \\\\\ 494 7500 E Doubletree Ranch Rd, AZ 85258. § (800) 554-9288, (480) 991-3388.` (480) 483-5550. ∑ www.scottsdale.hyatt.com Contemporary architecture, lushgardens, and ten swimming pools. Ù ∫ µ 7 h ÷ /

SCO S DALE Bou ders Resort and Go den Door Spa \\\\\ 215 34631 N Tom Dar ington Dr, AZ 85377. § 480 488-9009, 800 553-1717.` (480) 488-4118. ∑ www.wyndham.com Luxurious golf and sparesort with hiking and jogging trails. Ù µ 7 h ) z e≥ I ç √ , ÷ /

SCOTTSDALE The Phoenician \\\\\ 54 6000 E Camelback Rd, AZ 85251. § (480) 941-8200, (800) 888-8234. ` (480) 947-

4311. ∑ www.thephoenician.com An extravagant resort complex, with golf course, tennis courts, and nine swimming pools. Ù ∫ µ 7 h ÷ /

SCO S DALE Scottsda e Princess \\\\\ 651 7575 E Princess Dr, AZ 85255. § 480 585-4848, 800 441-1414. ` 480 585-0086.∑ www.fairmont.com A first-rate resort-hotel in a handsome setting with allamenities, and several award-winning restaurants. Ù ∫ µ 7 h ÷ /

SHO W L OW : Best Western Paint Pony Lodge \\\ 50581 W Deuce of Clubs Ave, AZ 85901. § (928) 537-5773. ` (928) 537-5766.Standard rooms, some with whirlpool tubs. Ù µ 7 h z ç √ , /

SHO W L OW : Holiday Inn Express \\\ 71 151 W Deuce of Clubs Ave, AZ 85901. § (928) 537-5115, (800) 465-4329.` (928) 537-2929. The usual multifloor motel with standard rooms andsuites, a few with whirlpool tubs. Ù µ 7 h z ç √ , ÷ /

TOMBSTONE: ilver Nugget Bed & Breakfast \\ 4520 E Allen St, AZ 85638. § 520 457-9223. ` 520 457-3471.∑ www.tombstone1880.com/silvernugget/ A friendly B&B with a different

Western theme in each of the rooms. h /

TOMBSTONE: Tombstone Boarding House \\ 108 N 4th St, AZ 85638. § (520) 457-3716, (877) 225-1319.∑ www.tom stone oar ing ouse.com Country inn furnished with antiquesand collectibles from the 1880s. Ù h ) z , /

TOMBSTONE: Best Western Lookout Lodge \\\ 0 Hwy 80 W, AZ 85638. § 520 457-2223, 877 652-6772. ` 520 457-3870.∑ www. estwestern.com Large rooms look out over the desert and themountains. Complimentary full breakfast. Ù µ h ≥ /

T UC SO N: am Hughes Inn Bed & Breakfast \\ 4

2020 E 7th St, AZ 85719. § (520) 861-2191. ∑ www.samhughesinn.comThis California mission-style inn located in the National Historic District of Tucson has Southwestern decor and a superb breakfast. Ù h z √ , /

T UC SO N: El Presidio Bed & Breakfast Inn \\\ 297 N Ma n Ave, AZ 85701. § (800) 349-6151, (520) 623-6151. ` (520) 623-3860.Restored Victorian adobe mansion set around a pretty courtyard.Delicious breakfasts included. Ù µ h





T UCSON Windmi Suites \\\ 122 4250 N Campbell Ave, AZ 85718. § 520 577-0007, 800 547-4747. ` 520 577-

045. ∑ www.win millinns.com Located in an upscale shopping plaza, thishotel is great value. It offers complimentary breakfast. Ù µ 7 h /

T UCSON Hacienda de So Guest Ranch Resort \\\\ 30

5601 N Hacien a e So R , AZ 85718. § 800 728-6514, 520 299-1501.` 520 299-5554. ∑ www. acien a e so .com Overlooking desert landscape,this luxury retreat in the hills above town has been popular since the 1940s when stars such as Katherine Hepburn used to visit. Ù µ 7 h ≥ /

T UCSON Lodge on the Desert \\\\ 35 306 N Alvernon Way, AZ 85711. § 520) 325-3366, (800) 456-5634.

` 520 327-5834. ∑ www. o geont e esert.com A tranquil hideaway featuring adobe-style buildings with charming rooms amid pretty desertgardens. Ù µ 7 h /

UCSON Arizona Inn \\\\\ 8

2200 E Elm St, AZ 85719. § (520) 325-1541, (800) 993-1093. ` (520) 881-5830.∑ www.arizonainn.com This pink stucco resort hotel, opened in 1930,features spacious rooms set in lush grounds. Ù µ 7 h ÷ /

UCSON Canyon Ranch Hea th Resort–Tucson \\\\\ 180 8600 E Rockcli Rd, AZ 85710. § 520 749-9000, 800 742-9000.` 520 749-7755. ∑ www.canyonranc .com Spa with four-nights minimumstay. Three healthy meals a day, spa, activities, and wellness services areincluded in the package. Ù µ 7 h = z e ≥ I ç √ , ÷ /

T UCSON: Lazy K Bar Guest Ranch \\\\\ 24 8401 N Scenic Dr, AZ 85743. § (520) 744-3050. ` (520) 744-7628.

∑ www.lazykbar.com An authentic ranch offering desert trail rides anddance lessons as part of the package. Ù h /

T UCSON: Tanque Verde Guest Ranch \\\\\ 74 14301 E Speedway Blvd, AZ 85748. § (520) 296-6275, (800) 234-3833.

` (520) 721-9426. ∑ www.tvgr.com This Southwestern-style resort offershorseback riding, hiking, and nature walks. Located in the Sonoran Desertnear Saguaro National Park. Ù 7 h ) z ≥ I ç √ , ÷ å /

Y UMA : Best Western InnSuites \\\ 1 1450 Castle Dome Ave, AZ 85365. § (928) 783-8341, (888) 986-2784.

` (928) 783-1349. ∑ www. nnsu tes.com Large suites and standard rooms.

Breakfast buffet is included, and there are tennis and basketball courtsand a whirlpool. Ù µ 7 h ) z e ç √ , ÷ /

Y UMA : La Fuente Inn & Suites \\\ 97 1513 E 16th St, AZ 85365. § (928) 329-1814, (800) 841-1814. ` (928) 343-2671.

∑ www.lafuenteinn.com Complimentary Continental breakfast is availabledaily, and early evening cocktails with complimentary appetizers areserved Monday through Thursday. Ù µ 7 h ) z ç √ , ÷ /

THE FOUR C RNERS

A ZTEC: tep Back Inn \\ 39103 W Aztec Blvd, NM 87410. § (505) 334-1200. ` (505) 334-9858.

Aztec’s newest hotel is clean, comfortable, and close to the amenitiesof the downtown area. Ù µ h /

BLUFF Desert Rose Inn \\ 3701 W Highway 191, UT 84512. § (435) 672-2303, (888) 475-7673.

` 435 672-2217. ∑ www.desertroseinn.com Located on the west side of Bluff, the wood exterior lodge has 30 modern rooms, each uniquely decorated in a Southwest mode. Ù µ 7 h z ç √ , /

T R A V E L E R S ’ N E E D S3

R ESTAURANT




G ARDEN/TERRACE


S WIMMING P OOL



\ under US$50

\\ US$50–$100

\\\ US$100–$150

\\\\ US$150–$200


T

N U M B E R O F

R O O M S



S W I M M I N G

P O O L



BLUFF: Recapture Lodge \\ 2 Hwy 191, UT 84512. § (435) 672-2281. ` (435) 672-2284.

∑ www.recapturelodge.com This country lodge hosts regular speakerson local geology and archeology, and offers adventure tours.Ù µ h /

C AMERON : Cameron Trading Post \\ Rte 89, AZ 86020. § 928 679-2231, 800 338-7385. ` 928 679-2350.

∑ www.camerontradingpost.com This working trading post has a delightfulgarden and fine Native arts gallery. The rooms are comfortable. Ù µ /

CHINLE: Holiday Inn, Canyon de Chelly \\ 108 Garcia Trading Post, Canyon de Chelly, AZ 86503. § 928) 674-5000, (800) 465-

4329. ` 928 674-8264. ∑ www. o i ay-inn.com A hotel complex, it housesthe Garcia Restaurant (see p140). Tours of Canyon de Chelly can bearranged. Ù ÷ µ 7 h /

CHINLE Thunder ird Lodge \\\ 73 Canyon De Chelly, AZ 86503. § 928 674-5841, 800 679-2473.

` (928) 674-5844. ∑ www.tbirdlodge.com Part of the excellent complex atthe mouth of Canyon de Chelly. Rooms are tastefully decorated.Ù µ 7 h /

COR EZ Ke y P ace \\ 11 14663 Rd G, CO 81321. § 800 745-4885. ` 970 565-3540.

∑ www.kellyplace.com This quiet country retreat is set among contrastinglandscapes of fruit orchards and red rock canyons, and offers group workshops on local Native culture and archeology. Ù h /

F ARMINGTON Best Western Inn at Farmington \\\ 192

700 Scott Ave, NM 87401. § (505) 327-5221, (800) 528-1234. ` (505) 327-1565.

∑ www.bestwestern.com This good-value and dependable chain hotel hasa pool, which is very inviting in summer. Ù µ h /

ESA ERDE A IONAL ARK Far View Motor Lodge \\\ 150 Mile Marker 15, Mancos, CO 81328. § (800) 449-2288. ` (970) 533-7831.

∑ www.visitmesaverde.com Away from the bustle of the park, this modernhotel has great views across the mesa and Montezuma Valley.¢ Oct 15–Apr. Ù h ≥ /

MEXICAN AT: Valley of the Gods Bed & Breakfast \\\ 4

Valley of the Gods Rd, UT 84531. § (970) 749-1164.∑ www.valleyofthegods.cjb.net As “away from it all” as you can get, thispleasant house is the only building in the Valley of the Gods. Ù h /

MONUMENT V LLEY : Gouldings Lodge \\\\ 2 O Hwy 163, UT 84536. § 435 727-3231, 800 874-0902.` 435 727-3344. ∑ www.gouldings.com This famous inn has hostedmovie stars and directors from almost every movie made here. Eachroom has a balcony with a superb view of Monument Valley. A museumfeatures the cabin John Wayne used in an early movie. Ù µ h ≥ /

P AGE: Best Western Arizona Inn \\ 103 716, Rim View Dr, AZ 86040.

§(928) 645-2466, (800) 826-2718.

` (928) 645-2053. This inn has modern rooms, many of which offerpanoramic views of Lake Powell. Ù µ 7 h z e ≥ ç √ , /

P AGE Lake Powell Resort \\\ 350 100 Lakeshore Dr, AZ 86040. § 928) 645-2433, (800) 528-6154. ` 928) 645-

1031. ∑ www.visit a epowe .com Lakeside lodging on the shore of LakePowell with resort-style amenities including swimming pools, hot tub,dining room, and lounge. Powerboat and houseboat rentals are available.¢ mid-Nov–mid-Mar. Ù µ 7 h ) = z e ≥ ç √ , ÷ /

SECOND MESA , HOPI R ESERVA ION Hopi Cu tura Center Hote \\ 33 Rte 264, AZ 86043. § (928) 734-2401. ` (928) 734-6651.

∑ www. opicu tura center.com This renovated hotel with an adobe look andpastel interior is the best accommodation for miles around. Ù µ h /

W INDOW R OCK : Qua ity Inn \\ 5 4 W Hwy 4, AZ 515. § 928 871-4108, 800 662-6189. ` 928 871-5466.

∑ www.navajonationinn.com This attractive, comfortable hotel is oneof the Navajo reservation’s showpieces. Rooms are immaculately clean, with private bathrooms. Ù µ h /

W H E R E T O S T A Y 1 3




A N INTRODUCTION TO S UTHWESTERN FOOD

T R A V E L E R S ’ N E E D S

P RICES & TIPPING

ATING OUT in Arizona is very reasonable, and

even expensive restaurants

offer good value. Lightmeals in cafés an inersusually cost under $10, while chain restaurantsserve comp ete inners orunder $15. Mexican restau-rants o er com inationplates for $8–$12. At finerrestaurants, dinner entréesrange from $15 to $30, anddiners can still buy a three-

course meal, excluding wine, for under $50.

The standard tip is 15percent of the cost of themea . However, eave upto 20 percent if the serviceis goo . Sa es tax is notshown on the menu and wi a aroun 5–7 percentto t e cost o a mea .

A

ELL AS offering highua ity an top-

class regionalcusine, Arizona o ersan exciting range of eating experiences,especially in its largercities. Phoenix, Scottsdale,Tucson, an Se ona rivaany city in the United States for thequality of ingredients and variety of cui-sine available, with ambiences rangingrom rustic to romantic. In keeping witits new y-acquire , internationa sta-tus, Southwestern cuisine is served ina growing number of casual but stylish

ca és. Stea ouses, too,abound in this region.

Loca restaurants usua y serve t e est Mexicanood, and there are also

restaurants wit a cow oy or Mexican theme, where

one can get an inexpensivemea an great entertain-

ment. In small towns, the best food isserve in swis restaurants in ote s.

The restaurants on pages 134–41 haveeen c osen or t eir qua ity, ocation,

an goo va ue. Some typica Mexicandishes availa le in Arizona are shownin t e ox at t e ottom o t is section.

Pub sign in Flagstaff

Sout western oo re ects t e region’s strong Hispanicand Native cultures. Mexican food and its more refined

cousin, Sout western cuisine, enjoy a o owingaround the globe. One of the pleasures of a

visit to Arizona is discovering the great varietyof restaurants that serve dishes made with thereshest ingredients, and cooked with expertise.The chili pepper is at the heart of Southwesterncuisine, and some pack a powerful bite, but there

are other milder varieties that add flavor withouteat. Most menus in restaurants requente y

tourists provi e an exp anation o t edishes, and friendly staff offer advice.

T e region’s ot er great stap e is ee ,and there is no shortage of good steaksand burgers in most areas.

Red and

reen chilis

Huevos ranc eros Fried egg on a so ttortilla, served with chili

sauce, melted cheese,and refried beans, is a

favorite for breakfast.

A tortilla and bean stall at

Tumacacori, Southern Arizona

cuisine, to lavish diningrooms in t e top-c ass anupsca e resorts oun inand around Phoenix,Scottsdale, and Tucson.

Starting at the lower endof the scale, fast food is a way of life throughout thestate, and a string of outletssuc as McDona ’s, BurgerKing, Wendy’s, and Arby’s areoun a ong t e main strips omost towns in t e state. T ey serve the usual inexpensive variations o urgers, ries,and soft drinks. Chains such

as Applebee’s and Denny’soffer more variety, withsoups, salads, sandwiches,meals, and desserts. These aregenera y goo va ue, utthe quality varies from oneesta is ment to t e next.Pizza chains are alsou iquitous in t e region.Mi -range eating p aces can

YPES OF OOD R ES AURAN S

INING ESTABLISHMENTS in Arizona range from small

and friendly diners and cafés,offering hearty burgers andsnacks, to gourmet restau-rants that serve the latestSouthwestern and fusion

H E R E O A



W H E R E T O E A T 1

EGETARIAN

OUTHWESTERN cuisine isarge y meat ase .

Vegetarians may not findmuc variety outsi e t earger cities an resorts.However, salad bars areavailable everywhere, from

fine restaurants to fast foodchains. Salads can be acomplete meal as they oftencome with meat and seafood,ut vegetarian or ers are

usually accommo-ate . Many astoo c ains nowserve salads, soups,or a e potatoes tocater to the more health-

conscious customer.The more expensive

restaurants, and thoseaffiliated with hotels,are usually willing toprovide vegetarianmea s on request when they have theingre ients. It is a gooi ea to p one a ea .

LCOHOL

BEER PARTICULARLY the many

in s o cervezas impor-ted from Mexico, is the most

popu ar rin in t eregion. Arizona hasa growing rew-puan micro rewery

industry as well. Wineand other alcoholic drinks

are also available through-

out the state, except onNative reservations.

The finer restaurantsusua y serve a wi e variety o a co o icbeverages. Visitorsnee to e 21 to uy

alcohol. Be sure to carry ID,as it is o ten requeste e ore you are served.

ISABLED ACILITIES

STAURANTS ARE require toprovi e w ee c air access

and a ground-level restroom y aw, ut c ec wit o erp aces in a vance.

Sout western ecor at t e Two Mic s Cantina Gri in Tucson

Tacos with guacamole A popu ar snac ood.Tortillas folded in half and illed with ground bee ,

beans, onions, tomatoes,lettuce, and grated cheese.

Chili relleno A who e green chi i is stu ed with cheese, dipped in a light egg atter, and deep ried. The chi i is sometimes stu ed withrice or meat.

Enchiladas Ro ed corn torti as, i ed with cheese, beef or chicken,and usua y topped with ared chi i sauce andmelted cheese.

inc u e a range o et niccuisine such as Italian, Greek,Chinese, Japanese, andIndian. Many good restau-rants that fall into this

category can be found inshopping malls.

Native American oo isoun in many areas othe state, especially onreservations, an is rea-sona y price . Fry reaforms the base of many mea s, an is o ten toppe with meat, beans, cheese,lettuce, and tomatoes.

Steakhouses servingmesquite barbecue, steaks,and ribs are found across Arizona in a wide variety of price ranges. Some o t eserestaurants a so serve resmountain-trout and seafood,an provi e ive Western-style entertainment.

Mexican restaurants arepopular and proliferate in

the state. They vary fromroa si e stan s an snackars to upscale restaurants,

where the food is comple-mente y t e am ienceof adobe-style buildings wit us interior courtyar s t at provi e aromantic atmosphere.

“Sout western” cuisine isa fusion of Native American,

Hispanic, and internationainfluences, and is increas-ingly showcased in Arizona’sfinest restaurants. Thiscuisine creates flavorfuldishes using traditionalSout west ingre ientssuch as corn, chilis, beans,ci antro, tomati os,an pine nuts.

Margarita

ocktail



Choosing a Restaurant

THE RESTAURANTS in this guide have been selected acrossa wide range of price categories for their exceptional

food, good value, or interesting location. Entries are listed by region, in alphabetical order within price category. The thumbtabs on the pages use the same color-coding as the correspon-ing regional chapters in the main section of this guide.


O U T D O O R E

A T I N G

V E G E T A R I A N

S P E C I A L T I E S

B A R

A R E A

F I X E D - R I C

E

M E N U


G RAND C ANYON & N RTHERN IZONA

C AMP ERDE The Ranch House \\

N Montezuma Ave, AZ 86322. § (928) 567-4492.

Located next to the Beaver Creek golf course at Lake Montezuma, thisrestaurant offers an extensive menu of steak, prime ribs, seafood, and

homemade desserts. 7 z , f /FLAGSTAFF : Charly’s Pub & Grill \

23 N Leroux, AZ 86001. § (928) 779-1919.

This fast-moving restaurant is popular for its enticing range of steaks,seafood, burgers, and sandwiches, as well as Mexican specialties. 7 /

FLAGS AFF Downtown Diner \7 E Aspen Ave, AZ 86001. § 928) 774-3492.

An atmospheric spot, the diner serves inexpensive, filling American mealsfrom early morning. /

FLAGS AFF San Fe ipe’s Cantina \

1 N Leroux, AZ 1. § 928 779-6000.

A popular and lively spot, offering an excellent range of Baja-styleMexican dishes. The fish tacos are especially tasty. 7 /

FLAGSTAFF B ac Bart’s \\

2760 E But er Ave, AZ 86001. § 928 779-3142.

Enjoy great steaks and seafood in this appealing Western atmosphere. Waiting staff sing Broadway songs, showtunes, and old favorites. 7 /

FLAGSTAFF : Cottage Place Restaurant \\\

126 W Cottage Ave, AZ 86001. § (928) 774-8431.

One of Flagstaff’s best restaurants, the menu includes vegetarian dishes anda good selection of seafood and meats. ¢ ; on. 7 ˚ /

FLAGSTAFF : Pasto \\\

19 E Aspen, AZ 86001. § 928 779-1937.

A busy, downtown restaurant, it offers excellent Italian cuisine. Vegetarianand wheat-free dishes are also served. ¢ L Sat & Sun. 7 /

G AND C ANYON Bright Ange Restaurant \\

Bright Angel Lodge, AZ 86023. § (928) 638-2631.

This café-restaurant serves light meals and salad, as well as full meals. 7 /

G AND C ANYON: Canyon Star Restaurant \\

SR 64, AZ 86023. § (928) 638-3333.Located in the Grand Hotel (see p125), the restaurant features a dinnertheater with Native American programs and cowboy songs. 7 z , f /

G AND C ANYON: Grand Canyon Lodge \\

Nort Rim, AZ 86023. § 928 638-2611, 888 297-2757.

Though remote, this lodge (see p125) manages to sustain a goodrestaurant, where American dishes are the order of the day.¢ Mid-Oct–mid-May. 7 Partial. /

G RAND C ANYON Grand Canyon Qua ity Inn & Suites Restaurant \\

SR 64, AZ 86023. § (928) 638-2673.

Enjoyable setting with choice of buffet or à la carte. Large selection of salads and fruit, as well as steak and seafood choices. 7 z , /

G AND C ANYON Phantom Ranch \\

Grand Canyon, AZ 86023. § 888 297-2757.

Situated on the canyon floor and accessible only by hiking or mule trail,Phantom Ranch (see p125) has a canteen providing meals by advancereservation only. The house specialty is the “Hiker’s Stew.” /



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Some tables on a patio or terrace. V EGETARIAN SPECIALTIES

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Small portions and/or high chairs available on request.

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G RAND C ANYON Coronado Room \\\

Hwy 64, AZ 86023. § 928 638-2681.

Located in the Grand Canyon Squire Inn, it serves primeribs, steaks, barbecue ribs, seafood, pasta, and Mexican dishes.¢ L. 7 z , /

G RAND C ANYON (NORTH R IM): Kaibab Lodge Restaurant \\Arizona 67, AZ 86003. § (928) 638-2389.

Located in the main lodge, which also has a comfortable sitting areaand stone fireplace, the restaurant serves a limited menu of simple,basic food. ¢ Nov–mid-May. z , /

G RAND C ANYON V LLAGE: Maswi Ca eteria \

Grand Canyon South Rim, AZ 86023. § (928) 638-2631.

Maswik Lodge (see p125) offers this inexpensive, self-service café, withMexican food as its specialty. There is also a cocktail lounge. 7 /

G RAND C ANYON V LLAGE E Tovar Hote \\\\

Gran Canyon Sout Rim, AZ 86023. § 928 638-2631.El Tovar has a large dining room overlooking the South Rim.The menu is wide-ranging, and reservations for dinner areessential. 7 ˚ /

HOLBROOK Butter ield Stage Co. \

609 W Hop Dr, AZ 86025. § 928 524-3447.

This rustic steakhouse serves barbecue ribs and steaks. ¢ . z , /

OLBROOK Mesa Ita ianna Restaurant \\

2318 Navajo Blvd, AZ 86025. § (928) 524-6696.

Fine Italian cuisine includes veal, chicken, shrimp, pasta, and pizza.

Chicken Jerusalem in a butter, garlic, shrimp, and lemon sauce is popular. A children’s menu is available. ¢ Sat & Sun L. 7 z , /

JEROME: English Kitchen \

119 Jerome Ave, AZ 86331. § (928) 634-2132.

This café serves standard but well-prepared meals in premises that servedas an opium den in Jerome’s wild past. ¢ D; Mon. /

JEROME: Flatiron Café \

416 N Ma n St, AZ 86331. § 928) 634-2733.

Great salads are a specialty of this amiable café in the center of Jerome. Also try the tasty scrambled eggs at breakfast. ¢ D. /

K INGMAN: Mr D’z Route 66 Diner \

105 E Andy Devine, AZ 86401. § (928) 718-0066.

Painted pink and peppermint green, there is no missing this cheerfuldiner, which is crammed with Route 66 memorabilia. 7 /

K INGMAN: Hu ’s Ca é \\

315 E An y Devine Ave, AZ 86401. § 928 718-1800. ∑ www. ote - runswic .com

Located in the restored 1909 Hotel Brunswick (see p126), the restaurantserves excellent French cuisine, steak, and Southwestern dishes.¢ Sun. 7 z , f /

AKE AVASU C ITY Krysta ’s Fine Dining \

460 El Camino Way, AZ 86403. § (928) 453-2999.

Fine dining in a casual atmosphere. Specialties are steaks, ribs, andseafood. ¢ L; Dec 25. 7 z , /

L AKE H AVASU C I Y Mudshark Brewing Co. \\

210 Swanson Ave, AZ 86403. § (928) 453-2981. ∑ www.mudsharkbrewingco.com

American and Southwest food including steak, ribs, pork and seafood. Thecreative entreés, salads, and pizzas exceed the usual pub fare. f z , /



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L AKE H AVASU CI Y hugrue’s \\\

1425 McCulloch Blvd, AZ 86403. § 928 453-1400. The restaurant has a viewof the London Bridge. Garlic crusted halibut and five-star pepper steakare popular dishes. ¢ ec 5. 7 z , /

P RESCOTT Murphy’s \\\

201 N Cortez St, AZ 86301. § (928) 445-4044. Housed in a historic 1890building, this restaurant serves mesquite-broiled steak, prime-rib, andseafood. ¢ Day after Labor Day & Dec 25. 7 z f (Tue only) /

P RESCOTT: The Palace \\\

120 S Montezuma St, AZ 86301. § 928 541-1996. ∑ www. istoricpa ace.com

Wild West atmosphere, serving steak, seafood, and pasta with soups andsalads. Dinner theater some Monday nights with Western entertainment.¢ Dec 25. 7 z , f /

P RESCOTT: Peacock Room \\\

122 E Gur ey St, AZ 86301. § 928 778-9434. ∑ www. assayampainn.com

This luxurious restaurant features a varied menu of American andContinental choices, including daily specials. 7 z , f /

P RESCOTT: Rose \\\

4 ortez t, AZ . § 928 777-8308. Intimate dining in a restored Victorian house from the late 1890s. The menu includes a wide variety of Continental dishes that are cooked-to-order. ¢ L; Mon, Tue. 7 z , /

SEDONA : Black Cow Café \

229 N Hwy 89A, AZ 86336. § (928) 203-9868. Bright and breezy, this cafémakes an excellent pit stop, serving filling sandwiches, cakes, and pastries.The homemade ice cream is irresistible. 7

SEDONA : Dah & Di uca Ristorante Ita iano \\

2321 W Hwy 89A, AZ 86336. § (928) 282-5219.

The food is inspired by Tuscan cuisine. Its claim that guests can “dine inItaly without leaving Sedona” is entirely justifiable. ¢ L. 7 /

SEDONA : El Rincon Restaurante Mexicano \\

Tlaquepaque Mall, 336 S Hwy 179, AZ 86336. § (928) 282-4648. Thisrestaurant specializes in Mexican and Navajo-influenced dishes. 7 /

SEDONA : Oaxaca Restaurante & Cantina \\

321 N Hwy 89A, AZ 86336. § (928) 282-4179.

An appealing café-restaurant, it serves Southwestern and Mexican food. 7 /SEDONA : Takashi Japanese Restaurant \\

465 Jordan Rd, AZ 86336. § (928) 282-2334.

Traditional Japanese cuisine is available at this friendly restaurant. Dishesinclude tempura, teriyaki, and sushi. ¢ Sat & Sun L. 7 /

SEDONA owboy Club \\\

41 N Hwy 4, AZ . § (928) 282-4200. This has Wild West decor andfeatures High Desert cuisine, including steak, ribs, seafood, rattlesnake,buffalo, and vegetarian dishes. ¢ hanksgiving, Dec 25. z , /

SEDONA hugrue’s Hi side Gri \\\

Hi si e Courtyar , 671 Hwy 179, AZ 86336. § (928) 282-5300. Arguably the best steaks in town can be enjoyed at this brisk, modernrestaurant. The service is excellent – both efficient and courteous. 7 /

SHOW L OW Branding Iron Stea House \

1261 E Deuce of Clubs, AZ 85901. § 928 537-5151.

Friendly atmosphere, and a menu that includes prime ribs, steak, seafood,and chicken, along with a soup and salad bar. ¢ L; Sat, Sun. 7 z , /





W ILLIAMS: Miss Kitty’s Steakhouse \

Mountainside Inn, 642 E Rte 66, AZ 86046. § (928) 635-4431.

A local tradition, Miss Kitty’s offers tasty steaks, ribs, and more at goodprices. There is live music and dancing most nights of the week. 7 f /

W ILLIAMS

: Twisters Soda Fountain & The Route 66 Place \

417 E Route 66, AZ 86046. § (928) 635-0266.

One of the few of the town’s old diners that has survived, Twistersis furnished with colorful retro American memorabilia. 7 /

W ILLIAMS: ruiser’s Café 66 \\

233 W Route 66, AZ 86046. § (928) 635-2445.

A 1930s former gas station that serves thick, juicy burgers, barbecued ribs, vegetarian fajitas, pasta, and sandwiches. ¢ Mon–Fr L. z , /

W ILLIAMS: Max & Thelma’s \\

235 N Grand Canyon Blvd, AZ 86046. § (928) 635-8970.

Next to the Grand Canyon Railway Depot, the restaurant is named for thecouple that brought the railway back. Serves American-style food, includingsteak, barbecue, seafood, and pasta. z , /

W ILLIAMS: Rod’s Steak House \\

301 E Rte 66, AZ 86046. § (928) 635-2671.

Established in 1946, this steakhouse has long been a Route 66 landmark.The food is well prepared and service is first-rate. ¢ Sun. /

INSLOW Turquoise Room \\\

303 E 2nd St, AZ 86047. § (928) 289-2888.

The menu changes frequently, and features steak, prime ribs, lamb,chicken, seafood, pasta, and Southwestern entrées.

z , /

P HOENIX & S UTHERN RIZONA

A PACHE J UNC ION Mammoth Stea house & Sa oon \

3650 N Mammoth Mine Rd, AZ 85220. § 480 983-6402.

Steakhouse with live entertainment on some nights. All tables allowsmoking. 7 z f /

A PACHE J UNCTION Mining Camp Restaurant & Trading Post \

6100 E Mining Camp St, AZ 85217. § 480 982-3181.

This well-established restaurant, in a modern version of a miners’ canteen,offers tasty traditional American dishes at affordable prices. ¢ Ju –Sep. /

G LOBE ha o’s \

902 E Ash St, AZ 85501. § (928) 425-0515.

This restaurant is a local favorite. The interior is simple with linoleum floorsand vinyl booths, but the Mexican food, which includes huge servings of en-chiladas smothered in homemade sauces, is delicious. ¢ Jan 1, Dec 25. 7 /

G LOBE: La Luz del Dia \

304 N Broad St, AZ 85001. § (928) 425-8400.

For something distinctive, try this Mexican bakery and coffee shop. A goodplace to fill up before exploring this attractive town and its surroundings.

NOGALES: La Roca Restaurant \\ Calle Elias 91, Nogales, Mexico 84000. § (011-52) 631-312-4686.

This spacious restaurant is built into a rocky outcrop. The interior hasSpanish Colonial decor and folk art. Superb margaritas. 7 /

P HOENIX : Arcadia Farms \

Heard Museum, 2301 N Central Ave, AZ 85004. § 602 252-8848.

Full lunch restaurant serving Southwestern salads, sandwiches andcomplete meals. ¢ D. 7 /

P HOENIX : Fast Eddie’s Diner \

3422 West Glendale Ave, AZ 85016. § 602) 242-2288.

This 1950s-style diner serves breakfast, lunch and dinner. Fare includessteaks, burgers, pot roast, meatloaf, and Friday night fish-fry. 7 z , /

P HOENIX Sam’s Ca é \

2566 E Camelback Rd, AZ 85016. § 602 954-7100.

This casually upscale restaurant has a friendly Tex-Mex flavor with hand-crafted specialties such as applewood smoked pecan salmon or chili-rubbed shrimp with pineapple-mango salsa. 7 z , /




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P HOENIX Aunt Chi ada’s at Squaw Pea \\

7330 N Dreamy Draw Dr, AZ 85020. § 602 944-1286.

Mexican food is the specialty of this popular restaurant, whichoccupies an imaginatively modernized, 19th-century general store.¢ Thanksgiving, Dec 25. 7 f /

P HOENIX : Avanti Restaurant \\\ 2728 E Thomas Rd, AZ 85016. § (602) 956-0900.

With justification, the Avanti bills itself as a Valley tradition – it has beenserving up first-rate Italian cuisine for nearly 30 years. 7 ˚ /

P HOENIX : Rustler’s Rooste \\\

Pointe South Mountain Resort, 7777 S Pointe Pkwy, AZ 85044.§ 602 431-6474. Those with a hankering for Western country-stylefixings can enjoy delicious mesquite-grilled steak and ribs.¢ L Mon–Sat. 7 f /

P HOENIX : Arizona Kitchen \\\\

Wigwam Resort, 300 Wigwam Blvd, Litchfield Pk, AZ 85340.§ (623) 935-3811. Diners can watch Southwestern cuisinebeing prepared in this charming open-plan restaurant.¢ Mon D. 7 /

P HOENIX : Vincent’s on Camelback \\\\\

3930 E Camelback Rd, AZ 85251. § (602) 224-0225.

This classy restaurant offers an imaginative menu that blends French andSouthwestern cuisine. Advance reservations are recommended.¢ mi -May–Sep: Mon & Sun. 7 ˚ /

P INETOP -L AKESIDE: Christmas Tree \\

455 N Woo an R , AZ 85929. § 928 367-3107.This eatery’s good home-style cooking is a favorite with localsand visitors alike. Beef, chicken, and seafood entrées are served with homemade cinnamon rolls. The house specialty is chickenand dumplings. ¢ L; Mon–Tue D; Nov 1–Thanksgiving.

7 z , /

P INE OP -L AKESIDE Char ie C ar ’s Stea house \\\\

1701 E White Mountain Blvd, AZ 85935. § (928) 367-4900.

Established in 1938, this informal Western-style restaurant is verypopular. Entrées include prime ribs, seafood, and mesquite-broiled steak.7 z , /

SCOTTSDALE Ristorante Sando o \\\

Hyatt Regency at Gainey Ranc , 7500 E Dou etree Ranc R , AZ 85258.

§ 480) 483-5574. The singing servers offer a serenade that precedes – if youbook it – a gondola ride on the canal behind the hotel. ¢ L. 7 ˚ f /

SCO SDALE The Squash Blossom \\\

Hyatt Regency at Gainey Ranch, 7500 E Doubletree Ranch Rd, AZ 85258.

§ (480) 991-3388. The emphasis of this excellent café is onSouthwest cuisine with such delicacies as fajitas and adobo,a marinated steak. 7 /

SCOTTSDALE Compass Restaurant \\\\

Hyatt Regency, 122 N 2n St, AZ 85004. § 602 440-3166.

Phoenix’s only revolving restaurant has fabulous views across the city.The food is first-rate too, featuring regional American dishes. 7 ˚ /

SCOTTSDALE: Ruth’s Chris Steakhouse \\\\

7001 N Scottsdale Rd, AZ 85253. § (480) 991-5988.

One of the best steakhouses in town, noted for its corn-fed and agedUS prime beef. Chicken and seafood dishes are also available. 7 /



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SCOTTSDALE: La Hacienda \\\\\

Scottsdale Princess, 7575 E Princess Dr, AZ 85255. § (480) 585-4848.

This top-flight restaurant offers Mexican dishes and is ideal for a leisurely evening. Strolling Mariachis serenade guests while they eat. 7 ˚ f /

SCOTTSDALE

: Mary Elaine’s \\\\\

The Phoenician, 6000 E Camelback Rd, AZ 85251. § (480) 941-8200.

One of the city’s smartest restaurants, Mary Elaine’s focuses on contem-porary French cuisine. The location offers fine views over the valley.Men are required to wear jackets when dining here. 7 ˚ / ˙

S UP ER IO R : Buckboard City \

1111 Hwy 60, AZ 85273. § (520) 689-5800. ∑ www.worldssmallestmuseum.com

The “World’s Smallest Museum” boasts a restaurant serving desserts,hamburgers, salads, sandwiches, and breakfast specials. ¢ D. z , /

TOMBSTONE: Big Nose Kate’s \

417 E Allen St, AZ 85638.§

(520) 457-3107.

This restaurant has a great old-fashioned saloon atmosphere, with anoriginal cowboy bar and loads of Western memorabilia. ¢ . 7 f /

TOMBSTONE: O.K. Café \

3rd & Allen Sts, AZ 85638. § (520) 457-3980.

Charbroiled buffalo, emu, and ostrich burgers are the main dishes at thishistoric café, along with soups, salads, daily lunch specials, and tasty desserts. The service is fast and friendly. ¢ . 7 /

TOMBSTONE: The Lamplight Room \

108 N 4th St, AZ 85638. § (520) 457-3716, (877) 225-1319.

This fine restaurant serves traditional steak, pork, chicken, and fish, as well as Mexican dishes. Sauces and bread are prepared onsite. z , /

TOMBSTONE: The Longhorn Restaurant \

501 E Allen at Fifth, AZ 85638. § (520) 457-3405.

Family dining in a historical setting, serving barbecued smoked pork andbeef ribs, steak and prime ribs. Also Mexican specialties and burgers.¢ Thanksgiving, Dec 25. z , /

T UC SO N: El Charro Café \

311 N Court Ave, AZ 85701. § 520) 622-1922.

Tucson’s oldest Mexican restaurant is critically acclaimed as serving someof the best traditional Mexican food in the country. Try the famous carne

seca – beef that is sun-dried onsite – a Tucson specialty. 7 /

T UC SO N La Cocina \

Old Town Artisans, 201 N Court Ave, AZ 85701. § (520) 622-0351.

Dine outdoors in the lush shady courtyard, or indoors surrounded by artfor sale. Southwest Mexican specials, salads and burgers. ¢ . 7 /

UC SO N Li’ A ner’s Stea house \

8500 N Silverbell Rd, AZ 85743. § (520) 744-2800.

An outdoor mesquite grill is located in the eatery’s popular patio diningarea. Savory steaks, chicken, and ribs with large portions. A live cowboy band performs Friday and Saturday evenings. ¢ L. z f /

T UC SO N: chlotzsky’s Deli \

3270 E Valencia Blvd, AZ 85706. § (520) 741-2333.

This exceptional chain serves healthy and delicious sandwiches, salads,and pizzas. Try the “Original” sandwich that made them famous. 7 /

T UC SO N: Café Poca Cosa \\

88 E Broadway, AZ 85701. § (520) 622-6400.

A friendly restaurant serving fine authentic Mexican cuisine, with dishesfrom several regions. Vibrant Mexican-style decor. ¢ Sun. 7 /

T UC SO N: El Corral \\

2201 E River R , AZ 85718. § 520 299-6092.This steakhouse is set in an old adobe hacienda with wood beams,fireplaces, and stone floors. The specialty is prime rib. ¢ L. 7 /

T UC SO N: La Fuente Restaurant \\

1749 N Oracle Rd, AZ 85705. § (520) 623-8659.

Serving Tucson for 40 years, this restaurant specializes in authenticMexican cuisine with a live Mariachi band most nights. z , f /



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T UCSON The Gri \\\

5601 N Hacien a e So R , AZ 85718. § 520 529-3500, 800 728-6514.

The Grill offers American regional cooking at its finest. Freshingredients and inspired combinations make the menu trulymemorable. Only lodging guests are served lunch, while dinneris open to all. 7 ˚ /

T UCSON: Janos \\\\\

Westin La Paloma, 3770 E Sunrise Dr, AZ 85718. § (520) 615-6100.

One of Tucson’s most elegant restaurants, Janos blends Frenchcooking techniques with Southwestern ingredients. The menuchanges seasonally and the extensive wine list is chosen to match.¢ Sun & public hols. 7 ˚ /

T UMACACORI Wisdom Ca é \

1931 Frontage Rd, AZ 85640. § 520 398-2397.

Serving outstanding Mexican fare based on old family recipes, this café isfamous for its crispy chimichangas and fruit-filled burros. ¢ Sun. 7

Y UMA Garden Ca é \

250 Madison Ave, AZ 85364. § (928) 783-1491.

Located on an old family estate near the Century House Museum, thiscafé has a European feel. Everything is homemade. Entrées includemarinated chicken and tri-tip steak, soups, sandwiches, quiche, salads,and desserts. ¢ D; Mon L; Ju –Sep. 7 z , /

Y UMA : Ju ieanna’s Patio Ca é \\

1951 W 25th St, AZ 85364. § 928 317-1961.

Colorfully decorated dining room and large outdoor patio where seafood,prime ribs, lamb, pasta, steak, and chicken dishes are served with

homemade soups. ¢ at & Sun L; Sun D; Dec 25. 7 z , /

THE FOUR C RNERS

BLUFF Cottonwood Stea house \

Hwy 191, UT 84512. § (435) 672-2282.

Guests can eat inside or around the outdoor barbecue pit under agiant cottonwood tree. The grilled steaks are substantial.¢ Nov–Feb. 7 /

BLUFF: Twin Rocks Café \

Nava o Twins Dr, UT 84512. § 435 672-2341.

Located below the twin sandstone pillars that gave the place its name, itserves sandwiches and Southwest Native American dishes. 7 /

B Cow Canyon Trading Post \\Intersection of Hwy 191 & Hwy 163, UT 84512. § (435) 672-2208.

This former trading post and gas station is now a delightfulsmall restaurant and gift shop. The limited but innovativemenu changes regularly to use the best fresh ingredients.¢ L; Tue & We . /

C AMERON : Cameron Trading Post \

Route 89, AZ 86020. § 928 679-2231.

Hearty breakfasts and dinners feature standard but tasty versions of chicken, steak, and fish, as well as the ubiquitous Navajo taco. 7 /

C INLE Garcia’s Restaurant \

Garcia Trading Post, Canyon de Chelly, AZ 86503. § (928) 674-5000.

Classic Southwestern dishes, as well as Native and Mexican specialties,such as fajitas and the marinated cowboy sirloin, are served here.¢ Sat & Sun L. 7 /





CHINLE: Thunderbird Lodge \Canyon De Chelly, AZ 86503. § (928) 674-5841.

This cafeteria-style restaurant serves large portions of classic American diner food from breakfast through dinner. Excellent valueand tasty. 7 /

CORTEZ Homesteaders \\

45 E Main Cortez, CO 81321. § (970) 565-6253.

Barbecued pork ribs and steaks are served with homemade bread andpies amid a stylish country decor of antiques and old license plates.¢ Sun. /

F ARMINGTON: Clancy’s Pub \\\

2701 E 20th St, NM 87401. § (505) 325-8176.

A friendly, oak-and-fern type bar with better-than-average sandwiches,steaks, and lots of cold imported beer. ¢ major hols. 7 /

G REY OUN AIN Anasazi Restaurant \ Grey Mtn Trading Post, Grey Mountain, AZ 86016. § (928) 679-2203.

A typical regional restaurant featuring Mexican, Native, and Americandishes with lots of frybread, hamburgers, and tacos. ¢ ov– ar. 7 /

K AYEN A Amigo Ca é \

Hwy 163, AZ 86033. § (928) 697-8448.

The simple but delicious Mexican food offered by this restaurant is a welcome treat in the remote northern Four Corners region. Efficient andcheerful service. ¢ Sun. /

MONUMENT V LLEY : Stagecoach Dining Room \\

Goulding’s Lodge, UT 84536. § 435 727-3231.This large, touristy restaurant serves standard American fare. Thehighlight here is the stunning view of Monument Valley. 7 /

P AGE: Italia Family Buffet \

810 N Nava o Dr, AZ 86040. § 928 645-2706.

A family oriented restaurant with indoor and patio dining, itserves traditional Italian dishes and pizza. With homemadesoups, salad bar, and desserts. ¢ ajor o s. 7 z , /

P AGE: Ken’s O d West \

718 Vista Ave, AZ 86040. § 928 645-5160.

Live country and Western music nightly in summer with Western-styledinners of steak, barbecued ribs, prime ribs, chicken, and seafood.¢ Mon–Wed in winter; Jan 1, Dec 25. z , f /

AGE Dam Bar & Gri \\\

644 N Nava o Dr, AZ 86040. § (928) 645-2161.

The eclectic industrial-dam decor of this pub and eatery complementsthe contemporary steak and pasta dishes served. ¢ Dec–Mar: Sun.

7 ˚ f /

P AGE: Rainbow Room \\\

La e Powe Resort, La es ore Dr, UT 86040. § 928 645-1162.

This elegant lodge offers innovative takes on classic steak,pasta, and seafood dishes, and has sweeping views ofLake Powell. 7 / ¢ mi -Nov–mi -Mar.

SECOND MESA , H PI R ESERVA ION Hopi Cu tura Center Restaurant \\

Rte 264, AZ 86043. § (928) 734-2401.

Try traditional dishes like Hopi stew, which can be interesting, thoughstandard Mexican and American fare is also served. ¢ hanksgiving,

Dec 25. 7 /

UBA I Y Hogan Restaurant \

PO Box 247, AZ 86045. § (928) 283-5260.

Located next to the Quality Inn, Hogan’s offers a full Mexican/Americanmenu, which is a cut above the average diner fare. 7 /

W INDOW R OCK Navajo Nation Inn Dining Room \

48 W Hwy 264, AZ 86515. § 928) 871-4108.

This is the place where Navajo businessmen and politicians eat.Traditional dishes are served in a room decorated with Native art.¢ Sat & Sun D. 7 /




W

ITH SUCH AN EXCITING range oative American, Hispanic,

n Ang o-American pro -ucts, shopping in Arizona is acultural adventure. Native crafts,inc u ing rugs, jewe ry, an pot-tery, top the list of things that peo-p e uy. T e Sout west is a soknown as a center for the finearts, with Scottsdale (see p80) andSe ona see p 8) amous or t eirmany galleries, selling everything from

Arizona-inspire an scapes an t e at-est contemporary work, to kitsch bronzesculptures of cowboys and Indians.

Across the state, specialty grocery stores an supermar ets stoc a

range of Southwestern productsrom hot chili sauces to lue corntorti a c ips. Western wear, inc u -ing boots, hats, and belts are foundin shops across the state. In themajor cities, there is a choice o

glamorous fashion districts, usu-a y situate in air-con itione ,andscaped malls. Phoenix and

Scottsdale rank shopping among theirtop attractions, and themed malls andboutique shopping areas attract hun-re s o t ousan s o visitors eac year.

ESTERN EAR

A ONG THE most popularsouvenirs of Arizona are

hand-tooled cowboy boots,cowboy hats, and decorative

leather belts. Western wear isma e to ig stan ar st roug out t e region.Phoenix is a famous center forcow oy c ot es. Az-Tex Hatsof Scottsdale has the largestse ection o cow oy ats inthe Southwest, while Saba’s

Western Store has beenoutfitting customers in Western fashions since

927. Bacon’s Boots &Sa es, which is located inthe historic mining town of G o e see p85), is owne y cra tsman E Bacon w o asbeen making fine boots andsa es or more t an 50 years. Sheplers is a major Western-wear store, and kidsas well as grown-ups arecatered for with mini hats,

spurs, and toys.

H O P P I N G I N R I O N A

C i i-s ape pot

Typical Southwestern boots and

hats on sale in Phoenix

EGIONAL OOD

A IZONANS ARE proud of their Southwestern

cuisine, and in most shoppingareas you will find grocery stores an specia ty s opsse ing an array o Arizona-made sauces, salsas, dips, and

gourmet oo items. Many othese foods are chili based,ranging from the mildjalapeño to the super-hothabañero peppers. Themesquite-smoked jalapeñopepper, known as chipotle ismedium hot and has a smoky avor. Sa sa is a con iment

made from tomatoes, chilli,gar ic, an ci antro.

Farmers’ mar ets areanother good source of localpro uce, an usua y stoc arange of dried chili strings,nown as ristras . Several

companies have websites where you can order suchregional gourmet foods as

G EMS & MINERALS

ITH ARIZONA’S ascinating

eology and long miningistory see pp2 –7), it is not

surprising to find glitteringgems and minerals on display in shops across the state. Rocshops and museum shops,such as the shop in the

Cut stones on display during the

Tucson Gem & Mineral Show

Chili peppers hanging from

a cart in Sedona

an ma e corn torti as,chili-stuffed olives, hot-spiced microwave popcorn,mesquite bean candy,and prickly pear jam. A large number of book-

stores and shops offer a variety o coo oo s witrecipes on Arizonan an Sout - western cuisine, from easy-to-prepare is es to tra itionaand fusion recipes using allt e avorite ingre ients.



S H O P P I N G I N A R I Z O N A 1 4 3

UTE MEMORABILIA & TOURIST TSCH

EMORIES, memorabilia,

kitsch, and souvenirscan e oun in s ops aalong Arizona’s Route 66.T e istoric Route Association of Arizona in Kingman is a non-profitcorporation that is dedicatedto the preservation, promo-tion, and protection of Route

and its memories.

Arizona Mining & Mineral Museum in Phoenix, providereasonably priced and beautifulminerals such as turquoise,azurite, an ma ac ite, quartzcrysta s o varie s apes ansizes, and gold and silver.T e sta in t ese s ops are

usually knowledgable andenjoy ta ing a out Arizona’sminerals and geology. TheSleeping Beauty Mine inGlobe is Arizona’s largestsource of turquoise, and itsretail shop, True Blue Jewe ry & Gift S op, o ersturquoise jewelry, tumblednuggets, an roug turquoise. Tucson Mineral & Gem

World carries a arge se ec-tion o ot Arizonan another minerals and crystals fornovices and collectors alike.Ramsey’s Fine Jewelry &Minerals in Sedona special-izes in making custom jewelry using Arizona gemstones, as we as qua ity gemstones anminera s rom every corner o

N IQUES

A TIQUES AND especially those that evoke memo-

ries o t e Wi West, are very popu ar in Arizona. Western, Native and cowboy antiques inc u e sa es,ats, spurs, a ges, Navajo

rugs, silver and turquoisejewelry, as well as lanterns

and wagon wheels.In the Phoenix area, the

Old Towne Shopping District in downtown Glen-ale is the main antiques

district, with more than 80antiques s ops an specia ty stores. Arizona’s argestcollector’s show, thePhoenix Fairgrounds Antique Market , is held at

the Arizona State Fairgroundssix times a year.

Prescott is known for itsantiques shops, many o which are locate in thecentral town square area of owntown Prescott. In Tucson,

the Fourth Avenue shoppingistrict as antiques storesetween th and 7th Streets.

the globe, and offers an eye-azz ing array o co or u cry-

sta s, minera s, an ossi s.Besides shopping, Arizonaosts two of the world’s

largest gems and mineralsshows during January andFebruary each year in

Quartzsite and Tucson (see p33). Rockhounds, gem andminera ea ers an ent usi-asts from around the worldare nown to gat er in Arizona for these shows.

The association’s gift shopoffers books, videos, andsouvenirs on the road. Route66 Roadworks, located in Winslow, carries Harley

Davi son, Burma S ave,and other memorabilia oft e era. In Wi iams, TheRoute Place provi esRoute 66 information andmementos, including T-shirts,jackets, vests, and signs andshields, as well as Coca-Cola, John Deere, Betty Boop, and1950s memorabilia.

Shopkeeper stands among the varied collectibles in his antiques store near Prescott

Typical Route 66 souvenir shop, on the Arizona-New Mexico border




ONE- F- A - IND SHOPS

A IZONA-STYLE independencean creativity ave cre-

ate unique pro ucts t at gobeyond the expected. Partof the delight of shopping

in Arizona is finding shopssuch as Poisoned Pen , oneof the country’s largest mys-tery books’ store. Travelingmystery u s can rowsethrough 15,000 titles, andappreciate t e specia eventsan ta s given y aut ors. Architect Paolo Soleri built

Arcosanti, t e experimentatown in the high desert of

Arizona see p81 , to thenorth of Phoenix. Cosant Originals, located in thetown, offers unique, one-of-a- in So eri scu ptures inthe form of windbells, andt eir sa es e p un researcinto alternative living.

ALLS

SOUTHERN ARIZONA has someo t e most stunning ma s

in the US, featuring airconditioning, plant-filled atri-ums, and fine restaurants. Thelargest of these is Phoenix’sMetrocenter with more than200 stores. Large departmentstores such as Neiman Marcuscan e oun at t e Scotts a e

A RT G ALLERIES

A IZONA HAS a vi rant artistictradition with skilled

artists an numerous ga eriesacross the state displaying wor s o art t at re ect t eunique colors, light, andlandscapes of the Southwest.Scottsdale is Arizona’s premierfine art center. It has over a

100 galleries that stock the works of internationally rec-ognized artists in many disci-p ines. T e popu ar T urs ay evening Scotts a e ArtWa features special exhibitsan artist receptions inthe galleries.

Outsi e view of Scotts a e’s E

Pedregal Festival Marketplace

The owntown area of Tucson is home to over 40 artga eries. O Town Artisansouses eig t istinctive ga -

leries and shops that display

t e arts an cra ts o un re sof local and regional artists.Se ona as an active artscene, and Western art can befound in 40 galleries in thecity. Tlaquepaque is a smallart village in Spanish Coloniastyle with courtyards andgardens, offering primarily Southwestern and Native art.Tu ac, Bis ee, an Jerome a

ave ga eries an cra t s ops,many of which display the wor o emerging artists.

FLEA M ARKETS

A ROSS THE state, ea mar etsoffer everything Arizonan

an muc more. F ea mar etsare usua y open on wee -ends, and sometimes onFridays or other weekdays.

Advertised as the largestopen-air flea market in theSouthwest, Phoenix Park ’n Swap in Phoenix offers aroa range o pro ucts,

from tools, clothing andjewe ry, to urniture, uggage,an at etic ootwear. Mesa Market Place Swap Meet features 1, 00 booths filled with new and used items,

antiques, home furnishings,clothing, jewelry, toys, andfood products. In Tucson,800 vendors at the Tanque

Ver e Swap Meet leamarket sell antiques andco ecti es, res pro uce,Southwestern crafts, andcoins an stamps. Pe er’sPass o Prescott Va eyfeatures antiques and col-

ectibles, plus clothing, crafts,and fresh produce. Quartzsiteas more than a ozen festivelea markets from Novemberto March, including theMain Event in January.

Paintings and drawings on adobe walls at DeGrazia Gallery in Tucson

Fas ion Square. Phoenix’sBiltmore Fashion Park offersGucci, Cartier, an Sa s Fi t Avenue, an as some o t ebest dining options in town.

T eme ma s are a un antin the region. Borgata of Scottsdale is styled as a 14th-century Italian village witmedieval courtyards. The Arizona Center in Phoenix hasrestaurants and shops setamong gardens, fountains, anda waterfall. The E Pe rega Festival Marketplace inScotts a e as a estive

Moroccan atmosp ere wit 25boutique shops and a brancho t e Hear Museum store.

Tucson has several largeshopping malls, including oneof the largest in the state,

Tucson Mall with over 200s ores. El Con Mal as agreat selection of departmentand specialty stores.




ES ERN EAR

Az-Tex Hats3903 N Scottsdale Rd,

Scottsdale, AZ 85251.

§ (800) 972-2116,

(480) 481-9900.

∑ www.aztexhats.com

acon’s BootsSa es

290 N Broad St,

G o e, AZ 85501.

§ (928) 425-2681.

Sa a’s WesternStore3965 N Brown Ave,

Scotts a e, AZ 85251.

§ (877) 342-1835,

480 947-7664.

∑ www.sa as

westernwear.com

Sheplers2643 E Broadway,

Mesa, AZ 5 4.

§ (480) 827-8244.

∑ www.s ep ers.com

EMSINERALS

Arizona Mining &Mineral Museum

1502 W Washington St,P oenix, AZ 85007.

§ (602) 255-3777.

∑ www.a mmr.

s a e.az.us.

Ramsey’s Fine Jewelry & Minerals150 Hwy 179 Su te #6,

Sedona, AZ 86339.

§ (928) 204-2075.

∑ www.amseysedona.com

True Blue Jewelry Gift Shop

200 N Willow St,

Globe, AZ 85501.

§ (928) 425-7625,

888 425-7698.

∑ www.sbturquoise.com

Tucson Mineral &em World

2801 S Kinney Rd,

Tucson, AZ 85735.

§ (520) 883-0682.

∑ www.tucson

ineral.com

Phoenix Park’n Swap3801 E Was ington St,

Phoenix, AZ 85034.

§ 800 772-0852.

∑ www.

americanparknswap.com

Tanque VerdeSwap Meet 4100 S Palo Verde Rd,

Tucson, AZ 85714.

§ 520 294-4252.

ALLS

Biltmore FashionPark 2502 Camelback Rd,

Phoenix,

AZ 5 1 .

∑ www.westcor.com

Borgata oScottsdale6166 N Scottsdale Rd,

Scottsdale, AZ 85253.∑ www.westcor.com

El Con Mall 3601 E Broa way

Blvd, Tucson,

AZ 85701.

§ (520) 795-9958.

E Pe rega Festival

Marketplace34505 N Scottsdale Rd,


§ (480) 488-1072.

Metrocenter 9617 Metro Parkway,

Phoenix, AZ 85051.

§ (602) 997-2641.

Scottsdale Fashion

Square7014 E Camelback Rd,


§ (480) 990-7800.

∑ www.westcor.com

Tucson Ma 4500 N Oracle Rd,

Tucson, AZ 85701.

§ (520) 293-7330.

∑ www.tucsonma .com

A RT G ALLERIES

Old Town Artisans201 N Court Ave,

Tucson, AZ 85701.

§ (520) 623-6024.

Scottsdale ArtsDistrict & ArtWa Scotts a e, AZ 85251.

§ (480) 421-1004.

Tlaquepaque336 Hwy 179,

Sedona, AZ 86351.

§ (928) 282-4838.

ucson Arts District Partnership125 S Arizona Ave,

Tucson, AZ 85701.

§ (520) 624-9977.

ONE- F- A -KIND HOPS

Cosanti Originals6433 E Doubletree Ranc

Rd, Paradise Valley,

AZ 85253.

§ 800 752-3187.

Poisoned Pen

4014 N Goldwater Blvd,Suite 101, Scottsdale,

AZ 5 51.

§ (888) 560-9919.

N ATIVE A RTS& CRAFTS

Cameron Trading Post Highway 89,

Cameron,AZ 86020.

§ (928) 679-2231.

Heard Museum Shop2301 N Central Ave,

Phoenix, AZ 85004-1323.

§ (800) 252-8344,

602 252-8344.

Hopi HouseMain St,

Grand Canyon,

AZ 86023.

§ (928) 638-2631.

Hu e Tra ing Post Highway 264,

Ganado, AZ 86505.

§ (928) 755-3254.

∑ www.nps.gov/ utr

Sewell’s Indian Arts7087 5th Ave,


§ (480) 945-0962.

IREC ORY R UTE 66EMORABILIA URIS I SCH

Historic Route Association of Arizona 120 W Andy Devine

Ave, K ngman,

AZ 86401.

§ 928 753-5001.

∑ www.azrt66.com

Route 66Roa works101 W Secon St,Winslow, AZ 86047.

§ (928) 289-5423.

∑ www.

oute66roadworks.com

The RoutePlace

17 E Route ,

Williams, AZ 86046.

§ (928) 635-0266.

∑www.route66place.com

TIQUES

TowneShopping District East o 59th Avenue,

Glendale, AZ 85308.

§ (877) 800-2601.

PhoenixFairgroun s Antique Market Arizona State Fairgroun s.

§ 623 587-7488,

(602) 717-7337.

∑www.

azantiqueshow.com

LEA ARKETS

Main Event PO Box 2801, Quartzsite,

AZ 85346.

§ (928) 927-5213.

∑ www.quartzs te.com

Mesa Mar et P aceSwap Meet 10550 E Baseline,

Mesa, AZ 85212.

§ (480) 380-5572.

∑ www.mesamar et.com

Peddler’s Pass6201 E Hwy 69,

Prescott Valley,

AZ 86314.

§ (928) 775-4117.



Silverwork often with

turquoise arrays,has been produced

by Navajo, Zuni,and Hopi peoples

for centuries. Since the mid-19th century,

Navajo jewelers have incorporated Spanish sty es. Hopi and Zuni

silver is different, with anintricate over ay process

that has raised si ver patterns against a dark

background.

TR AD IN G O ST SThe Cameron Trading Post and the

Hubbell Trading Post originated in the mid-1800s, and are thriving Native arts and crafts

centers today. Trading posts are classic

middlemen. They benefit the tribes by nurturing Native artists and offering a ready market for their work. For visitors, they

provide advice and a generous variety of craftsfor comparison shopping.


Shopping for Native Arts & Crafts

ONE OF THE MOST rewarding parts of atrip to Arizona is shopping for Native

arts an cra ts see pp18–19). Now value as collectors’ items, many mo erncra ts, such as pottery an asket-making,can trace their history to centuries-ol

tri al li e. There is intense competition etween Nativeartisans, and the quality of traditional arts continues tobe high. At the same time, a new wave of Native artistsare successfully blending traditional art with modernmedia and styles from around the world. Whether shopping in trading posts, art galleries, or

museum shops (see p145), a skillful eye can result inbargains. Purchasing work from Native artists offersthe bonus of possible new friendships.

Rug-making is practiced by

the Navajo. A large rug creat-ed by a master weaver canetch thousands of dollars.

Basket-making is one of the oldest Native American cra ts, dating ac over a 1,000 years. Virtually all tribes in Arizona practice

as et-ma ing, ut the as ets o the Apache and the Hopi are particularly re ined.

Pottery is practiced y many tri es, ut Hopi pottery is considered to be the best. Made fromlocal clays, it eatures both contemporary and traditional designs, many taken from nature,with names such as “birdwing,” “dragonfly,” “hummingbird,” or “rain.”

Pottery



G ALLERIES & M USEUMS

Some o t e very est tra itiona ancontemporary Native art can be found inine art ga eries an museum s ops, suc

as Hopi House at the Grand Canyon orthe Heard Museum Shop. Prices in theseshops tend to be higher, but careful shop-ping can still result in bargains. Thesegalleries and museum shops often havelong-established relationships with someof the very best Native artisans, and canprovi e s oppers wit in ormation onart trends, investment considerations,an provenance ocumente in ormationon the artist, and background and

istory o t e artwor .


Carvings are primari y represented y

kachina o katsina do s – eauti u y painted, ornate representations of the kachina spirits o the Hopi and the Pue o peoples. Although popular with tourists, they have deep signi icance or the Hopis, and should be handled and treated with respect.Other tribes occasionally make kachina-like dolls for the tourist trade.

B UYING DIRECTLY FROM ATIVES

One of the most gratifying shoppingexperiences is purchasing crafts directly from Native artisans, who are found at themajor tourist destinations. These craftsmenare either beginners or mid-level artisans,

and the prices are usually very reasonable.

• Exercise norma caution. Loo or awssuch as uneven edges or curling in rugs,an opsi e ness in pottery.

• Do not purchase expensive articles if you do not know how to determinequality. Avoid making large purchasesfrom unknown vendors.

• Don’t be too aggressive while bargain-ing. A good price is usually 70 to 80

percent of the originally offered price.• Remem er Native etiquette. Spea so t y

and clearly. Don’t point, and if yous a e an s, o so gent y.

• I you want a p otograp o t eartist, they may ask for money($2–$10 is normal).

Navajo weaver working outdoors

Navajo san painting s owing a un ant crops



A ZONA S LIVELY BLEND oultures and increas-ing population have

ma e it a t riving centeror arts an entertainment.

The large cities of Phoenix andTucson have vibrant artisticcommunities, and offer opera, ballet,c assica music, an major t eatrica

pro uctions. Se ona is amous orits resident painters and sculptors,an regu ar y osts prestigious touring

pro uctions, as weas regional theater,ance, an musica

events. Also, almost every city andmajor town has a lively nightlife thatinc u es popu ar music suc ascountry, jazz, and rock, and dinner

t eater an stan up come y.Sport is a popular pastime in Arizona,

and fans can find major league andco ege oot a , ase a , an as et-ball teams playing across the state.


I FORMATION

THE BEST in ormation sourceon entertainment and

events are oca newspapers.P oenix’s The Arizona

Republic and Tucson’s Daily Star are useful, and they alsohave websites with up-to-dateinformation. Several maga-zines also review events annightlife. Most hotels offer

magazines, suc as Where and Key , that feature dining,attractions, an entertainment.

Jazz in Arizona ’s we sitedetails upcoming events. You can oo tic ets ormost events through

Ticketmaster outlets, or at www.ticketmaster.com, theironline booking service.

NTERTA INMENT

IN A R I ZONA

cowboy skills, like roping

steers and breaking wildmustangs, are now ro eocontests that offer substantialmoney prizes. Ro eo is t eSpanis wor or roun -up,harking back to the 19thcentury when herds of cattlecrossed the Southwest ontheir way to California.Today’s rodeocircuit is very

competitive anddangerous, attractingu -time pro essiona s

w ose ig pay re ectsthis risky career. Someo t e most popu arro eos in Arizona areTucson’s Fiesta de los VaquerosRodeo, ThePayson Rodeo,

The SummerRodeo Series in Wi iams, anFrontier DaysRo eo in Prescott. Arizona o ers p enty o

opportunities to sample the Wild West atmosphere, either

in t e many g ost towns or inistoric rontier towns suc as

Tombstone see p98), whichstages moc -gun ig ts. West-ern towns that were built asfilm studios, such as Old

Tucson Studios see p90

offer tours of their workingmovie sets. Similar entertain-ment can e oun atRawhide, north of Scottsdale, w ic as a museum, an o -fashioned ice cream parlor,an a amous music venue.Go ie , near Apac e Junction, which was oncethe richest gold mining townin America, offers a train

tour of the original goldmine site, a working saloon,and a bordello museum.

POR S

THE THREE most popularspectator sports in

Arizona, as in the rest oft e country, are oot a ,baseball, and basketball. The

state’s argest concentrationof major teams is int e P oenix area. T e Arizona Cardinals who play their homegames at the Sun Devi

Stadium, are the state’sonly major league

football team, and theoldest continually

operating NFL

oot a teamin the country.T e Arizona

Diamondbacksase a team joine t e

major league in 1998 and isbased at the $275-millionBank One Stadium in

Bull riding, a popular rodeo event in Arizona

ODEOS W LD W EST SHOWS

SINCE BUFFALO BILL’S first Wil West show in the

1880s, Arizona as een amecca for Western-styleentertainment. Tra itiona

Museum Club sign

Baseball player



E N T E R T A I N M E N T I N A R I Z O N A 1 4 9

IGH LIFE

N ALMOST EVERY own in Arizona, there are

restaurants, bars, andnig tc u s t at o er country music an ancing. Amongthe most famous country music venues is t e Wi West t eme-town o Raw i ein Scottsdale, where a largenum er of well-known

bands play. The Museum Clu in Flagstaff is alegendary Route 66 see p29 roadhouse that has hostedsuch top country musicnames as Hank Williamsan Wi y Ne son, an stio ers a ive y se ection oSouthwestern bands.

T e major cities o t e statehave virtually every type of

evening entertainment onoffer. For instance, jazz barsand cafés are gaining inpopularity, and standupcomedy and rock music areavailable in countless venues.In Tucson, T e Ria to ringsa wide variety of live enter-tainment – rom pun rocto sa sa – to t e stage othis renovated 1918 play-

ouse. C u s an arenasbased in Phoenix andTucson are regular stopsor big stars on US tours.

LASSICAL USIC,B ALLET & OPERA

IN PHOENIX , ot t e exce entPhoenix Symphony and

Arizona Opera per orm at t ePhoenix Symphony Hall building. The city’s $14-million refur ishment of the

Spanish Baroque-styleOrpheum Theater hascreated the state’s top venuefor big name Broadway s ows, an a stunningaddition to more than 20major venues or arts, sports,an entertainment in anaround Phoenix. ArizonaT eater Company an Actors Theater occupy the

Herberger Theater Center ,offering a regular programof performances. With morethan 20 theater companiesin Phoenix, there is animpressive array of playsto c oose rom, as we astouring stage shows and bigname entertainers.

In Tucson, t e Arizona Opera begins its productions

at Convention Center MusicHall, which is also home tothe award-winning Tucson Symphony Orchestra

NFORMA ION

Jazz in Arizona ∑ www.jazzinaz.org

ODEOS ILDEST SHOWS

Tucson Stu ios§ (520) 883-0100.

awhide Western Town

§ 480 502-1880.

Tom stone Visitor enter § (520) 457-3929.

SPORTS

Amer ca West Arena § (602) 379-2000.

Arizona Cardinals§ (602) 379-0101.

Bank One Stadium § 602 462-6000.

LASSICAL USIC, ALLE PERA

Arizona Opera Tucson)

§ (520) 293-4336.

Herberger Theater enter § 602 252-8497.

rpheum Theater § (602) 262-7272.

P oenix Symp onyHall

§ 602 495-1999.

Tucson SymphonyBox Office§ (520) 882-8585.

IGHTLIFE

T e Museum C u§ (928) 526-9434.

ICKE MAS ER

Phoenix§ (480) 784-4444.

Tucson § (520) 321-1000.

DIRECTORY

Phoenix Symphony Hall, home to Phoenix Symphony and Arizona Opera

Phoenix. Professionalbasketball is represented by t e P oenix Suns, w o s aret e America West Arena with a football team, the

Arizona Ratt ers. While tickets may be hard

to o tain or eague games, itis relatively easy to gainentrance to the many collegegames in any sport through-out the region. Phoenix’s warm climate also attracts theCactus League, a series of training games for sevenmajor eague ase a teams

in Fe ruary an Marc .

Dancing couple at The Museum

Club in Flagstaff, Arizona



adventures in the SonoranDesert an Four Corners

areas. Utah-based NicholsExpeditions o ers ive- ay i ing tours to t e Canyon e

Chelly National Monument see pp106–9) in the midst of the Navajo Reservation.

To explore Arizona’s south,get in touch with Southern Arizona Adventures whichta es visitors to t e uniqueS y Is an s see pp1 –17)

and Kartchner Caverns cavesan C irica ua NationaMonument (see p99).

IKING

HE SINGLE most popu aroutdoor activity in Arizona

is hiking. Day hikes andonger trips draw large

W ITH HUNDREDS of miles of deepoc canyons, spectacu areserts, an towering, snow-

cappe mountains, Arizonao ers a wi e an temptingarray of outdoor adventureactivities. Muc o t e state’s

wilderness is protected by t e e era government in

nationa par s, nationa recre-ation areas, and lands admin-istere y t e Nationa ForestService and the Bureau of Lan Management. An increasing num-ers o visitors are eing rawn to t e

region, and it is now a magnet for

c im ers, mountain i ers, i ers, an WD enthusiasts. The range of orga-nized tours includes whitewater rafting

an orse ac ri ing, as we ascultural heritage tours of themany anc ent Nat ve American sites. Wil li feenthusiasts, particularly ir watc ers, can spot rare

species on the spring and fallmigration routes t at cross t eSouthwest. The region is alsoa center for sports activities,

especia y or go ers see pp154 –5 , who can choose from over 300 courses,some o w ic are t e wor ’s inest.


P E C I A LT Y A C AT I O N S

C T I V I T I E S

G ENERAL NFORMATION

HE MAIN centers for outdooractivities in t e region

are P oenix (see pp7 –83Tucson (see pp88–94),Flagstaff (see pp64–6), anSedona (see p68). Thesetowns have excellentequipment shops and visitor information centers.

Hi ers an campersexp oring nationa par

backcountry will need permitsrom t e Nationa Par Serviceas well as detailed maps, w ic can e o taine romthe USDA Forest Serv ce,the US Geological Survey (USGS). National parks haveexcellent, well-marked trails,and fascinating ranger-leikes that focus on the local

flora, fauna, and geology.

A vice on trai s, permits, an weather conditions at mostattractions can e o taineat ot t e state an ocatourist offices. Anyoneexploring desert or canyoncountry should be aware of the potential for flash floods,and should check weatherreports daily, especiallyuring t e summer mont s

o Ju y an August.

Hikers on the trail to Pueblo

A to at C aco Canyon

OCK LIMBING

A IZONA’S DRY , sunnclimate and extensive

mountains, canyons, ans eer roc aces ma e itone of America’s most

popular climbing destinations.There are excellent, and

often busy, climbing locationsnear each city, and nearly allthe major cities have first-ratec im ing s ops an sc oo s. Arizona W ite Knuc e Adventures in Scottsdale,provi es u - an a - ay climbs across the state, forgroups as we as in ivi ua s.

One of the oldest rockclimbing resources in Arizonais the Rocky Mountain Climbing School in Tucson, which offers professionaclimbing instruction andguiding for both beginnersan interme iate c im ers.

numbers of residents and visitors, who feel that thisis the best way to see theregion’s stunning scenery.

Popular hiking areasinc u e Mount Lemmon see p94 outsi e Tucson,Camelback Mountain (see p81 an t e SuperstitionMountains see pp84–5)outside Phoenix, Oak Creek

Canyon see p69)Sedona, and the vast desertexpanses of Glen CanyonRecreation Area (see pp62–3).

For ow-e ort i ing anriving tours, contact Wa

Softly Tours which offerssing e- an mu ti- ay

Powerboating near Parker Dam in Arizona



O THER W TERSPORTS

A TIFICIAL LAKES a ong t eColorado River – formed

ecause o t e amming othe river – offer a variety of watersports, inc u ingpowerboating and jetskiing.Lake Powell is famous for

OUNTAIN IKING

FOUR -W HEEL DRIVING

W ITH SO MUCH wi ernessrisscrossed by trails

an jeep trac s, mountainiking and WD touring

are two of the fastestgrowing sports in

Arizona. Casual riders will find plenty othrills in Phoenix’sPapago Park(see p82). InTucson, there arenumerous trai s in t eMount Lemmon area.

Bikeapelli Adventure Tours o ers sing e- anmulti-day adventures on

rough desert single-tracksan slickrock ri es. Se onais also a hotbed for 4WDadventures, and local legenPin Jeep Tours offersguided 4WD tours. Monument Va ey (see pp102–3 is aprime location for 4WD tours, w ic are o ten e y Navajogui es rom Goulding’sLodge Monument Valley

Tours. Glenn CanyonNational Recreation Area’smiles of trails an irtroads make it a hotspotfor both mountain bikersand 4WD enthusiasts.

S P E C I A L T Y V A C A T I O N S & A C T I V I T I E S 1 5

Mountain i ing on re roc in Coconino Nationa Forest, Se ona

offers plenty of other whitewater and flatwaterra ting c oices. I you want tosee t e Gran Canyon, severaoperators, including Tour

West o er t ree- toive- ay tripshrough the lower

Grand Canyon,

beginning atDiamon Creekon Hualapaireservation andending at LakeMead. The Salt

River is a raging torrent in t e W ite Mountains, w ere Far Flung Adventures offersone- to ive- ay ra ting trips.On the Colorado Plateau,

Wild River Expeditionsoffers a gentle one-day floatthrough the canyons of theSan Juan River that includesstops to see petroglyphs and Ancestral Puebloan ruins.

FISHING

KES MEAD, Powell, andHavasu are a so note as

is ing estinations. T e a esare well stocked with gameis uring t e is ing season,

w ic runs rom Marc toNovember. River anglers canalso fish for salmon and

trout. Fishing licenses arerequired almost everywhere,an catch an release isthe rule in many areas.Information about licenses,tournaments, and tours cane o taine rom marinas,

out oor equipment stores,local gas stations, andT e Arizona Gameand Fish Department .

O ALLOONING

OOL STILL mornings,dependable sunshine,

and steady breezes havemade Arizona one of the tophot air ballooning destinationsin America. Around Phoenix,several operators, includingHot Air Expeditions, offer

C ampagne ig ts over t eSonoran Desert. You can alsori t gent y over t e canyons

o Se ona wit Northern Light Balloon Expeditions.

Whitewater rafting trip on the Colorado River

A Pink Jeep in Sedona

HITEWATER AFTING

AYAKING

HEN PEOPLE t in o

itewater ra ting in Arizona, they often dream of the 16-day run through GrandCanyon (see pp48 –61). But,as incredible as this trip is, itrequires time, and up to a year of advance planning. W en time is s ort, Arizona

ouseboat cruises, whichshowcase remote beaches,canyons, and the deserteauty for which the lake is

known. Lake Powell Resorts

& Marinas rents out ouse-boats and powerboats. At Lake Mead (see p72),

s ops rent is ing oats anjetskis, and offer waterskiingessons. All kinds of equip-ment, from waterskis totubes, can be taken onrent from Fun TimeBoat Rentals which isnear Lake Havasu see p73).



KIING W IN ER

SPORTS

FEATURING 2,300 ft (700 m)of vertical drop and a

networ o super trai sserviced by five chairlifts,

the 12, 00-ft (3,840.48-m) Arizona Snowbowl (see p 5 , w ic ies just norto F agsta , is t e un is-puted champion of own i s i resor

5 T R A V E L E R S ’ N E E D S

RDWATCHING

ITH MORE t an 200pecies o ir s,

including many rare breeds,

ir watc ing is a popu arpastime in Arizona, par-ticularly in spring, early summer, and fall. These arethe peak migration seasonsor many species such as

warblers and flycatchers,and for shorebirds.

Ci o a Nationa Wi ifeRefuge is home to nesting wa ers, uc s an a winter

popu ation o snow geese,and more than 1,000 sandhillcranes. Severa a itats acrossthe region suit desert birdssuch as the roadrunner andelf owl; Saguaro NationalPark (see p90), located inthe Sonoran Desert, is anotable example.Southern Arizona is alsoome to America’s

greatest variety of hum-ming ir s. T eSoutheastern Arizona Bird Observatory anon-profit organization,offers educational toursin the region.

Telemark turns on San Francisco Peaks, near Flagstaff

SPA V CATIONS

A IZONA’S WARM winter weather and spectacular

out oors ave resu te in t eblossoming of high-end spasin P oenix, Tucson, an

ORSEBACK DING

ORSEBACK riding issynonymous with Arizona.

Even large cities have stablesthat offer trail rides throughthe esert. OK Corral Sta lesat Apache Junction near

Phoenix, offers horseback trailcamping trips or one to ivedays. Cooler summer loca-tions, suc as Se ona anPinetop-La esi e, are a sopopular. Dude ranches offer arange o experiences, rompampered luxury with daytimetrail rides, to real cattle ranch-es that offer visitors thechance to live and work as a

cowboy. The Arizona Du eRanch Association can e an a

Horseback riding through the desert near Tuscon, Arizona

Arizona. Another major resort,

Sunrise Park , in the WhiteMountains, features ten liftsand 65 runs, and is a favorite with visitors, particularly snowboarders. Also growingin popu arity is t e sout ern-most ski resort in the country,Mount Lemmon S i Va ey w ic is ocate just outsi eTucson. The Grand Canyon’sNort Rim is particu ar y

sought after by cross-country skiing enthusiasts.

EARNING CA IONS

OME OF ARIZONA’S mostinteresting earning

vacations focus on Nativecu tures an ancientcivi izations. Two organiza-tions, The Crow Canyon Archeological Center and The Four Corners School offer vacation courses ongeography, flora and fauna,ancient ruins, and Native arts.

Most programs ast etweenfour and ten days, and visitorsare ouse eit er in co egecampuses or in mote s. Severaof Arizona’s top museumso er a variety o earning vacations. The Smithsonian Institution also offerspopular programs such asthe past and present arts of the Hopi and Navajo tribes.

Se ona see p68). These spas

o er everyt ing rom pospampering to serious dietan itness programs, ana host of New Age wellness

experiences.Tucson’sCanyon Ranch ,

considered one of the world’s finestdestination spas, offersa stunning array of

programs incorporatingtennis, i ing, i ing, yoga, tai c i, anmeditation. Nearby,Mirava is amous or

its blend of pampering andp ysica regimen, o eringover 100 facial and body treatment options, includingacupuncture, Shiatsu, andTrager. The spa’s immaculate

grounds feature waterfalls,tennis courts, stables, anda Zen garden.

road-billed

ummingbird



1 5S P E C I A L T Y V A C A T I O N S & A C T I V I T I E S

NFORMA ION

A wealth o in ormation

on using and enjoying

public lands is available at

www.recreat on.gov

USDA Forest Service333 Broadway SE,

A uquerque,

NM 87102.

§ (505) 842-3898.

USGS12201 Sunrise Valley Dr,

eston, VA 20192.

§ (703) 648-4748.

∑ www.usgs.gov

IKING

ichols xpeditions

97 N Main St,Moab, UT 84532.

§ 800 648-8488.

∑ www.

ic o sexpe itions.com

Southern Arizona AdventuresPO Box 1032,

Bisbee, AZ 85603.

§ 520 432-9058.

∑ www.arizonatour.com

Walk Softly ToursPO Box 5510,

Scottsdale,

AZ 85261-5510.

§ (480) 473-1148.

∑ www.walksoftlytours.

com

OCK CLIMBING

Arizona Whitenuckle

Adventures10401 McDowell Mountain

anch Rd, #A2-112,


§ 480 342-9669.

∑www.arizona-

a ventures.com

Rocky Mountain Climbing School 260 S Pantano Rd, #251,

Tucson, AZ 85710.

§ 520 721-6751.

∑www.climbarizona.com

Lake Powell Resorts & MarinasP Box 1597, Page,

AZ 86040.

§ 928 645-2433,

(602) 278-8888,

(800) 528-6154.

∑ www.lakepowell.com

ISHING

Arizona Game &Fis Department 2222 Greenway Rd,

P oenix, AZ 85023.

§ (602) 942-3000.

O R B ALLOONING

Hot Air Expeditions2243 E Rose Gar en Loop,

P oenix, AZ 85024.

§ (480) 502-6999,

800) 831-7610.

Nort ern Lig t Ba oon ExpeditionsPO Box 1695,

Sedona, AZ 86339.

§ (928) 282-2274,

800) 230-6222.

BIRDWATCHING

Cibola National Wi ife RefugeRte 2, Box 138,

Ci o a, AZ 85328.

§ 928 857-3253.

Southeastern Arizona Bird Observatory PO Box 5521, Bisbee,

AZ 85603.

§ 520 432-1388.∑ www.sabo.org

EARNING V CATIONS

T e Crow Canyon Archeological Center 23390 County Road K,

Cortez, CO 81321.

§ 970 565-8975.

The Four CornersSchool Box 1028, Monticello,

T 84535.

§ (435) 587-2859.

Smithsonian Institution 1000 Je erson Dr SW,

MRC702,

Was ington DC 20560.

§ (202) 357-4700.

PA CA IONS

Canyon Ranc8600 E Rockcliff Rd,

Tucson,

AZ 85750.

§ (520) 749-9655,

(800) 742-9000.

∑www.canyonranch.com

Miraval 5000 E Via Estancia,

Cata ina, AZ 85739.

§ (800) 232-3969.

∑www.mirava resort.

KIING

W INTER SPORTS

Arizona Snow ow PO Box 40,

Flagsta , AZ 86002.

§ (928) 779-1951.

∑ www.

arizonasnow owl.com

Mount Lemmon Ski Valley

10300 Ski Run Rd,Mt. Lemmon, AZ 85619.

§ (520) 576-1321.

Sunrise ParkSki Resort PO Box 117,

Greer, AZ 85927.

§ (928) 735-7669,

800 772-7669.

∑ www.

sunrises ipar .com

ORSEBACK IDING

Arizona DudeRanc Association PO Box 603,

Cortaro, AZ 85652.

∑ www.azdra.com

OK Corra Stables2665 E Whiteley St,

Apache Junction,

AZ 85219-8981.

§ 480 982-4040.

∑ www.okcorrals.com

DIREC ORY MOUNTAINBIKING 4WD

Bikeapelli

Adventure Tours1695 W Hwy 89a,

Sedona, AZ 86336.

§ (928) 282-1312.

Gou ing’s Lo geMonument Va ey

ToursHwy 163, Gou ing,

UT 84536.

§ (435) 727-3231.

Pink Jeep ToursPO Box 1447, Sedona,

AZ 86339.

§ (928) 282-5000,

800 873-3662.

∑ www.pinkjeep.com

HI EWA ER AFTING & AYAKING

Far F ung A venturesPO Box 1550,

Vista, CO 81211.

§ (800) 231-7238.

∑ www.inaraft.com

Tour West PO Box 333,

rem, UT 84059.

§ (800) 453-9107.∑ www.twriver.com

Wild River ExpeditionsPO Box 118/101, Ma n St,

UT 84512-0118.

§ (435) 672-2244.

∑ www.riversandruins.

com

HER ER -PORTS

Fun me Boat Rentals1685 Industrial Blvd,

Lake Havasu City, AZ.

§ (928) 680-1003,

800 680-1003.

∑ www.

funtimeboatrentals.com

Lake Mead Visitor Center 601 Nevada Hwy,

Boulder City,

V 89005.

§ (702) 293-8906/8907.




BOASTING OVER 300 golf courses,many of which are among the

world’s finest, Arizona is a golfer’spara ise. With so many courses, golenthusiasts have a azzling array oterrains an levels o challenge tochoose rom. Green ees can rangerom nominal to expensive. Privatecourses are open to clu mem ers

exclusively, and to those with reciprocal memberships.Semi-private courses are reserved for members, but doaccept paying guests at certain times. Public courses

are open to all, ut gol resorts pre er guests staying with them, though they are opene to the pu lic occa-sionally. The legen ary Boul ers Clu , near Phoenix,rotates access to its two worl -class courses etweenresort guests, private mem ers, an the pu lic.

Go fing in Arizona

In summer, the northerncourses usua y ust e as t ey are coo er y 15ºF, on an aver-age, than courses in Phoenix.Busy is relative, however, and

seldom will the Northern Arizona courses be as crowdedas their southern cousins.

In Sedona, the Gary Pranks-esigne course at Se ona

Golf Resort is one of Nort ern Arizona’s must-p ay venues. Regu ar y eature inlists of the state’s best courses,t is par 71 course eatureslush greens and stunning

views of the surroundingred rock canyons.

Surrounded by pine-coveredmountains, Prescott is one of t e usiest go regions inNorthern Arizona. One of theest ea s can e oun at

Antelope Hills Golf Course.For a mo est ee o a out

Golfer Casey Martin

LAGSTAFFR HERN RIZONA

LF ON THE Co ora oPlateau, at elevations

between 5,000 ft (1,524 m) and7,000 ft (2,134 m), is playedthroughout the year, althoughsome courses close in winter.

HOENIX &CENTRAL A RIZONA

THE VALLEY OF THE SUN asperhaps more golf courses

per capita t an anyw ere int e wor , 180 an counting,including some of the world’s very best. Since this is a spotthat must satisfy not only itsresidents, but also over amillion visiting golfers every year, it’s no surprise that

many o t e courses arepublic or resort courses withgenerous pu ic access.

Go is ig usiness ere,particularly in Scottsdale, atown virtua y synonymous with the concept of luxuriousgolf resorts such as TheBoulders Clu an Troon North , which offer some of the best courses in the world.

In fact, the Tom Weiskopf-designed course at Troon Northis a esert go er’s ream, anis rated No. 1 public golf course in Arizona y ol Digest . Li e many Scotts a ecourses, the amenities andservices at Troon North are

PGA T UR Arizona’s suns ine an warm winter temperatures ma e ita favorite of the Professional Golfer’s Association (PGA), w ic o s two important tournaments ere ear y in t e year. In late January, the FBR Open (formerly the Phoenix

Open) attracts huge crowds tothe Tournament Players Club of Scottsdale. The club’s unusualayout allows for virtually unlimited viewing, and as many as 400,000 people have attended

a sing e tournament. A montlater, The PGA Chrysler Classic, with its purse of $3 million,attracts go ans y t ethousands from all over the wor to t e eauti u OmniTucson National Golf Resort.

A private golf course in the

cooler climes of Flagstaff

Golfer Charlotta Sorenstam at a

go f resort in P oenix

$55, players can choose fromthe 50-year-old, 18-hole NorthCourse, wit its toweringe m trees, c assic ayout, anchallenging doglegs, or the

in s-sty e Sout Course,opened in 1992. In nearby Prescott Va ey, t e par 72Stoneridge Golf Course isone of Northern Arizona’sbright new stars with a visu-ally stunning and physically challenging links-style coursethat features over 350 ft(107 m) of vertical rise anda across its 18 o es.

Tiger Woods hits a tee shot

during the Phoenix Open



S P E C I A L T Y V A C A T I O N S & A C T I V I T I E S 1 5 5

UCSON & U HERN RIZONA

ET IN THE VERDANT SonoranDesert, surrounded by

stunning landscape andboasting over 350 days o

sunshine every year, Tucsonis one of America’s best golf destinations. The city hasfantastic offerings, including Ventana Canyon Resort whose Tom Fazio-designedMountain Course o ersimmacu ate greens. Listeamong North America’s bestcourses, it offers enoughchallenge to keep even the

most experienced golfersfocused. Another rewardingcourse is the classic Randolf Par , with its broad waterazar s an towering euca yp-

tus trees. A popular PGA venue in t e 1980s, Ran o

Park now hosts LPGA events.Sout o Tucson, t e su -

ur s o Green Va ey avesome of the finest courses inSouthern Arizona. One of these is Torres Blancas a LeeTrevino-designed course witha monster 484-yard (442-m),par 4 signature 17th hole thatgives p ayers somet ing to taabout back at the clubhouse.

ENERAL

Arizona Golf Association 7226 N 16t St, St 200,

Phoenix, AZ 85020.

§ 602 944-3035.

Golf Arizona § (800) 939-7998.

∑ www.golfarizona.

com

LAGSTAFF

OR HERN

A RIZONA

Antelope Hills

Golf Course1 Perkins Dr,

Prescott, AZ 86301.

§ (800) 972-6818,

928 776-7888.

∑ www.antelopehills

golf.com

Sedona GolfResort 35 Ridge Trail Dr,

Sedona, AZ 86351.

§ 877 733-9885,

(928) 284-9355.

∑www.sedonagolf

esor .com

StoneridgeGolf Course1601 N Bluff Top Rd,

Prescott Valley, AZ 86314.

§ (928) 772-6500.

∑ www.stoneridgegol .

com

HOENIX ENTRAL

A RIZONA

The Boul ersC u34831 N Tom Darlington,

PO Box 2090, Carefree,

AZ 85377.

§ (480) 488-9028.

∑ www.the oul ersclu .

Go CanyonGolf Resort 6100 S Kings Ranch Rd,

Go Canyon,

AZ 85219.

§ 480 982-9090.∑ www.gcgr.com

Troon NorthGolf Club10320 E Dynamite B v ,

Scottsdale,

AZ 85255.

§ 480 585-7700.

∑ www.troonnorth.net

Wildfire Golf Clu5350 E Marr ott Dr ve,

Phoenix, AZ 85054.

§ (480) 473-0205,

(800) 324-8813.

∑ www.wild iregol .com

UCSONSOUTHERN

RIZONA

Randolph ParkGo f Course600 S Alvernon Way,

Pima County,

Tucson, AZ 85711.

§ (520) 791-5853.∑ www.tucsoncitygol .

com/randolph.html

Torres BlancasGolf Club3233 S Abrego Dr

Pima County,

Green Va ey, AZ 85614.

§ 520 625-5200.

Ventana Canyon Golf Resort 6200 N Clubhouse

ane, Tucson, AZ 85750.

§ (520) 577-4015.

∑ www. oews ote s.

com/ ote s/tucson

DIRECTORY

top-notc , ut a t is comes ata steep price, at up to $295 around. In Phoenix, there is the Wildfire Golf Clu , w iceatures two irst-c ass courses,a classic Arnold Palmer Signa-ture course, and the desert-style

Faldo Championship Course.Those wanting to opt for a

public course can head eastto Gold Canyon Resort w ic as t e Si ewin er anDinosaur Mountain courses,ot top-rate pu ic courses

since t ey opene . Botcourses are visually stunningan among t e est va ue inthis land of golf and sunshine.

Randolph Park in Tuscon – one of the top ten public golf courses in Arizona





S U R V I V A LG U I D E

R A C T I C A L N F O R M A T I O N 1 5 8 – 1 6 1

T R A V E L I N F O R M A T I O N 1 6 2 – 1 6 5



S U R V I V A L G U I D E5 8

HEN O

A IZONA IS A year-rounestination, and its climate

is dictated by elevation. Theigher elevation areas have

cold, snowy winters, makingthem a popular destination forskiing and other winter sportsactivities. In contrast, lowere evations in Sout ern Arizonaare noted for the warm andsunny winter weat er, wittemperatures averaging acomfortable 70°F (21°C) inPhoenix. Be aware, however,that the average temperature

in the summer months of July and August touches 100°F(37°C) in Phoenix, making itone of the hottest cities out-si e t e Mi e East. Springand fall are ideal seasons to visit Arizona – t ere are ewer visitors, and the milder tem-peratures ma e out ooractivities a popu ar option.However, some services may

be closed at these times: theNorth Rim of the GrandCanyon (see p55) is open only etween May and October.

Whatever the time of year, thisis a region nown or avinga great ea o sun, wit t enorthern areas averaging over200 ays o suns ine eac year, and the southern partsamous for having more than

300 sunny days in a year.

OURIS NFORMATION

ISITOR INFORMATION centersn Arizona o er everyt ing

from local maps to hotel andB&B oo ings. Specia tours,

suc as gui e istory wa s,ranger-led archeological tours,an wi i e expe itions, cana so e arrange t rougthese offices. In addition, thenational and state parks have

their own visitor centers thatprovide hiking maps, safety advice, and special licensesfor hiking and camping outin t e wi erness. Arizona has a department of

tourism, as o a t e majortowns an cities in t e state.Contact the Arizona Office of Tourism w en p anning yourtrip and they will be pleased

to send an information pack.Smaller urban centers ansights of special interest haveoffices that provide maps andguides. Information can alsobe obtained from the networko c am ers o commerce inthe region. Websites of theepartments o tourism, as

IME ONES

HE STATE IS located in theMountain Stan ar Time

zone, but it does not followDay ig t Saving Time. Fromate spring to ear y a , a othe neighboring states in theMountain Standard Time zone(New Mexico, Colorado, andUtah) set their clocks forwardby one hour, but not Arizona.

To confuse matters even

more, it is important to eaware that the Navajo Nationacross Arizona an part o

New Mexico oes use Day-light Saving Time, but theHopi In ian Reservation inthe middle of the NavajoReservation) does not.

Ranger on a guided tour at Keet

Seel, Navajo National Monument

SENIOR TRAVELERS

A HOUGH THE AGE when youare considered a senior is

5, a multitude of discountsare available to people over50. Reduced rates can apply to mea s, accommo ations,public transportation, andentrance ees, an are o ten

A

ST REGION OF ascinating anpectacu ar natura eauty,

Arizona is otte with ra-matic roc ormations, canyons,ancient archeological sites, and wild desert scenery that offers visitors a c oice o p easures,including a wide variety of out-oor activities. Arizona’s cit ies are famousor their combination of a laid-ac Sout western cu ture, an

sophisticated urban pursuits such asexce ent museums an great ining.In addition, unique attractions locate

on Native reservations provi e a wonderful opportunity to observe

American In ian cu tures. Accom-mo ations are excellent see pp122 –31 , and visitor infor-mation centers are p enti u ,even in the small towns.T e o owing pages containuseful information on planning

a trip to this region. PersonalSecurity (see pp1 0 – 1) -mends a number of precautions

to visitors, w i e Trave (see pp1 2 –5)provides information on travel by botpu ic transportation an car.

Arizona State

Parks’ sign

we as t ose o in ivi uasights, also offer informationan on ine oo ing servicesor accommodations.Many tourist attractions,

such as Canyon de Chelly

(see pp106–9), are located onNative reservations and aremanaged by tribal councils.For advice on etiquette, open-ing times, an a mission ees,contact the local ureau of Indian Affairs or t e Navajo Tourism Department

R A C T I C A L N F O R M A T I O N

Highway to mesa, butte, and spire formations at Monument Valley National Monument



P R A C T I C A L I N F O R M A T I O N 1 5

the only animals allowedon public transportation.

Many nationa par s anarc eo ogica sig ts avepaved walkways for wheel-

c airs. T e NationaPark Service grants freeentry, or one year, tohose who are disa ledor blind. The Access- A le Travel Sourcean the Society for Accessible Travel &Hospita ity are wo

organizations that offer adviceon trave ing to t e isa e ,

rom ow to rent specia y adapted cars to qualifyingor par ing permits.

RAVELERS I HDISABILITIES

A IZONA HAS excellentaci ities to cater to t e

p ysica y isa e trave er. All public places and build-ings are ega y require to e w ee c air-accessi e, an tohave suitably designed rest-rooms. However, call an

check on the accessibility insmaller inns and B&Bs, and insmall, local restaurants. Publictransportation also comesunder this law, and roadcrossings in city centers haveroppe cur s to ena e easier

access. Service anima s, sucas guide dogs for the blind, are

UDEN RAVELERS

HE LARGEST provi er ostu ent trave pro ucts

and services is STA Travel .

It o ers iscounte accom-modations, rail passes, phonecards, email options, travelpackages, and cut-ratestudent airfares. The besteals are available at offices

near colleges and universities.Student Universe offerssimi ar services via t eInternet. If you are planningto stay in yout oste s, you

wi nee to join Hoste ing International/American Youth Hostels (HI/AYH .

S TATE L CAL

FFICES

Arizona Officef Tourism

1110 W Washington St,

Phoenix, AZ 85007.

§ 866 298-3795.

∑www.arizonaguide.com

ureau ofndian Affairs

PO Box 10, P oenix.

§ (602) 379-4511.

agstaff Visitor enter

One E Route 66,


§ (800) 842-7293.

Greater PhoenixConvention & Visitors Bureau

00 E Van Buren St, Suite

600, Phoenix, AZ 85004.

§ (877) 225-5749.

Metropolitan Tucson VisitorsBureau100 S C urc Ave,

Tucson, AZ 57 1.

§ (800) 638-8350.

∑ www.v s ttucson.org

Navajo Tourism Department PO Box 663, Window

Roc , AZ 86515.§ (928) 871-6436.

ENIOR

TRAVELERS

American Asso. of Retire Persons3200 E Carson St,

Lakewood, CA 90712.

§ (888) 687-2277.

∑ www.aarp.org

Elderhostel 11 Avenue de Laffayette,

Boston, MA 02111.

§ 877 426-8056.

∑ www.elderhostel.org

National Par Servicesee also under

individual sights)

Intermounta n Area,

PO Box 25287,

Denver, CO 80225.

∑ www.nps.gov

DISABLED

RAVELERS

Access-A e Travel SourcePO Box 1796,

Wheat Ridge,

CO 80034.

§ (303) 232-2979.

∑ www.access-

able.com

Society or Accessi le Travel

& Hospita ity SATH

347 Fifth Ave,

Suite 610,

New York, NY 10016.

§ 212 447-7284.

∑ www.sath.org

S TUDENTRAVELERS

Hostelling International American Youth Hostel (HI/AYH)733 15th St NW,

Suite 840, DC 20005.

§ 202 783-6161.

∑ www.hiusa.org.

STA Travel 5900 Wilshire Blvd,

Su te 900,

Los Angeles,

CA 90036.

§ 800 781-4040,

(800) 836-4115.

∑ www.statrave .com

Student Universe

100 Ta cott Ave E,Watertown,

MA 02472.

§ (800) 272-9676,

(800) 351-3279.

∑ www.

studentuniverse.com

DIRECTORY

etter than student discounts.The National Park Serviceo ers Go en Age Passportst at re uce t e cost o partours and services.

E er oste rran eseducational tours, w ic inc u e inexpen-sive accommodations,lectures, and meals.The American Association of Retired Persons AARP offers goodtravel discounts.

Water fountains in the courtyard of the Heard Museum in Phoenix

Wheelchair

ccess sign




Lone truck on rough Arizona desert road

ERSONAL S AFETY

OST TOURIST AREAS in Arizona are rien y an

non-t reatening.However, to avoid beinga victim of crime, it is

wise to observe a few basic rules. Nevercarry large amountsof cash, wearo vious y expensivejewelry, or keep your wa et in your

ac poc et. Wearhandbags andcameras over oneshoulder with the

strap across yourbody. Keep your identi-fication separaterom your cash and traveler’sc ec s. Most ote s avesafety deposit boxes or safesin w ic you s ou storeany valuables.

I you are riving, e sureto oc any va ua es in t etrunk where they are out-of-

sight, and to park only in well-lit parking lots. Also, it is

wise to ave a roa si eassistance service p an, sucas AAA (see p165), whichsen s icense service repre-sentatives in case assistance is

needed. Similarly, atnight it is better to

stay where thereare other people

and be aware of which areas could

e unsa e. It is a gooidea to carry a cellp one so t at you canca 911 in an emer-

ency. In touristestinations, oche car when

stepping out.Parking areas in nationalparks, particularly overlooksand trailheads, are extremely popular targets for thieves.

RAVEL S AFETY

HERE ARE plenty of remoteareas an ig t y trave e

roa s in Arizona. Be ore yougo, check that your car hasa spare tire, and the toolsrequired to change it, andthat you know how to replacea flat tire. Carry a cell phone,blanket, and emergency food

an water in case o a rea -down in a remote area.

RAVEL NSURANCE

A IZONA HAS exce entmedical services, but as

in the rest of the US they are very expensive. Visitors are

strongly advised to makesure they have comprehensivemedical and dental coveragefor the duration of their stay. Visitors p anning to ta e partin outdoor activities in remoteareas or stay on Native reservations s ou consi erincluding medical air evacu-ation insurance as well.

EDICAL REATMEN

FOR EMERGENCIES that requireassistance rom t e me ica ,

police, or fire services call 911.

Trave er’s Ai Society , anational organization, extends

A IZONA IS A relatively sa e place aslong as some general precautions

are o serve . Arizona’s ur an centershave lower crime rates in contrast toother US cities, ut it is still wise to ecautious an to in out which parts areunsa e at night. When traveling acrossremote areas, take a reliable local map,and follow the advice of local rangers

and visitor centers. These sources also offer invaluableinformation on survival in the wilderness and on safety procedures that should be followed during outdoor

act v t es (see pp58–61 & 150–55). It is also advisa le tocheck the local media such as newspapers, television,and radio for current weather and safety conditions.

elp to needy travelers. City hospitals with emergency rooms can e oun in t eirectory, ut t ey are o ten

overcrowded. Private hospitals

o er more persona izetreatment and are listed in the Ye ow Pages. Wa -in c inicsoffer basic medical services,and are usually less expensivean more efficient thanospitals for non-emergencies.

You may be required toprovide evidence of yourability to pay before a doctor wi agree to treat you, ence

t e importance o a equatemedical insurance. Hotels willusua y ca a octor orrecommend a local dentist.

Fire Department badge, Sedona

Police officer on horseback patrol in Nogales

Personal Security & Health



TRAVELING ON THEESERVA IONS

ISITORS ARE welcome oneservations, an wi

generally find Natives to berien y an e p u .However, ta e t e same careas when traveling in any remote rura area o t e US.Services suc as restaurants,motels, gas stations, and ATMs are only located in

towns and atmajor crossroads.Call 911 in case of anemergency. If aserious medical situa-tion develops, you wi e provi eirst- ine treatmentand then shifted to aospita o t e reser-

vation. Most reserva-

tions also have theirown highly trained

police forces, which enforcethe laws an assist losttourists. It is illegal to bringalcohol onto reservations – even a ott e visi e in alocked car will land you introu e. A ways as e orep otograp ing anyt ing, an

P R A C T I C A L I N F O R M A T I O N 1 1

is unlikely you will be bittenif you avoid their habitats.Do not turn over roc s orreac up to touc roc e ges.Shake out clothes and shoes

t at ave een on t e grounbefore putting them on. Venomous stings an itesmay hurt but are rarely fatal toadults with prompt medicalattention. Always carry a firstaid and snakebite kit if youare going into snake country.

MERGENCY RVICES

All emergencies§ 911 and alert police, fire, or

medical services.

Police Non-Emergency Linehoenix

§ (602) 262-6151.

Traveler’s AidSociety Tucson§ (520) 622-8900.

American ExpressStolen credit & charge cards

§ 800 992-3404.

Diner’s Clubost & sto en cre it car s

§ (800) 234-6377.

MasterCard ost & stolen cre it car s

§ 800 223-9920.

Visa ost & stolen credit cards

§ (800) 336-8472.

DIRECTORY

U DOOR AFE Y

HE WEATHER in t eSouthwest can present

a number of dangeroussituations, especially in

Southern Arizona, where suddensummer storms may cause flash floods. Weat er in ormationcan be obtained fromranger stations, ant roug reports onradio and television.If you are planning adrive or hike in

remote territory,always tell someone where you are going and when you expect to return.

T e ry summer eat isoften underestimated, andi ers are a vise to carry at

least a gallon (4 liters) of rin ing water per person or

eac ay o wa ing. Dry conditions also pose the risk

of forest fires at higherelevations, and it is advisableto check with forest servicerangers regarding fire dangerbefore lighting any flame.

T e sun is surprising y strong at ig er e evations,and an effective sunscreenan sun at s ou a ways e worn. Temperatures canc ange rapi y in Arizona. It

may be 80°F (26°C) during theday, and then drop to 30°F(-1°C) at night. Be preparedand dress accordingly.

Dangerous creatures arefound in the wilderness(see p17) but these animalsgenera y avoi umans an it Po ice epartment sign on t e Navajo Reservation

Park ranger at the Petrified Forest

National Park, Arizona

e prepared that a fee may berequested. Do not wander off

marked trails as this is forbid-en. Dress respect u y – or

example, the Hopi request thatpeop e o not wear s orts.

Spea so t y w en ta ingto Natives as loud voicesare considered rude. Speakclearly and remember thatEnglish is a second languagefor many Native Americans.

Navajo security

personnel



Tucson

4 miles (6.4 km)

7 miles (11.3 km)

8 miles (12.8 km)

DISTANCE TO CITY ENTER A IRPORT

Flagstaff

(602) 273-3300

(928) 556-1234

(520) 573-8000

15 minutes

10 minutes

30 minutes

§ NFORMA ION TRAVEL TIME BY R OAD


P

HOENIX , o oweby Tucson, is

t e main gateway for visitors arrivingin Arizona by air. There are othermajor airports in neig oringstates that also serve as entry points, inc u ing t e cities o Las Vegasin Nevada, Salt Lake City in Utah, and Albuquerque in New Mexico. Visitorsa so arrive y ong- istance us or, essrequently, by Amtrak train. However,t e automo i e remains t e pre erre

mode of transport. Arizona hasan exce ent, we -

maintaine networkof highways, servicestations, an com orta e, air-con itione cars for rent.Pu ic transportation options are

increasing in major urban centers of thestate – a light rail service has been imple-mente , an oca us systems aveexpanded their hours of operation. Theowntown s utt e is use y visitors ur-

ing weekday working hours.

A RRIVING BY A IR

HOENIX ’S SKY HarborInternationa is t e argest

airport in Arizona. It hast ree termina s anreceives t e u odomestic andinternational arrivals.Sky Harbor andTucson Internationa Airport are centersfor major US airlines

t at o er otinternational andomestic routes;

t ese inc u e American Air-lines, ontinental Airlines,Delta Airlines, Frontier Airlines, Northwest AirlinesSouthwest Airlines and United Airlines. FromPhoenix, America West flies

to t e cities o Tucson,Flagstaff, Sedona, and Yuma.

Unlike other Americanestinations, there are very

few non-stop flights into Arizona from out-si e the UniteStates. Most inter-nationa visitorshave to connect via one o t ecountry’s majorairports, such as

Los Angeles, SanFrancisco, Chicago,

Atlanta, or Dallas. Travelersfrom Pacific countries gener-ally change at Honolulu,Hawaii. Those foreign carrierst at o ave irect ig ts toPhoenix include ritish Airways Air Cana a , an AeroMexico.

Phoenix

R AV E L N F O R M A T I O N

An airp ane f ying over t e P oenix s y ine at sunset

American Airlines

A IR F ARES

THERE IS AN array o aretypes and prices available.

T e c eaper tic ets are usua y booked early, especially between June and September, as well as around the Christmas

and Thanksgiving holidays.Direct bookings can be

done through an agent, travel website or through an airline. Agents are a goo source oinformation on bargains andtic et restrictions. T ey may a so o er specia ea s to t osebooking rental cars, accommo-dations, and flights. Fly-drivedeals, where the cost of the

ticket includes car rental, may also be a lower-priced option. Although there are several

websites offering bargains onast minute oo ings, trave

websites offer the convenienceo price comparisons. Pricescan change daily, so check at various times e ore uyingtic ets t at impose pena tiesfor changes. However, the

travel websites may not alwayshave the best prices on ticketsor packages. Part of yourcomparison shopping shouldinclude visiting the websites,an ca ing up in ivi uaair ines, ote s, an rentacar outfits. Also check thetrave section o ig city newspapers for special rates.

Mesa Airlines logo



RAVELING BY

RAIN US

TRAIN AND BUS travel in Arizona can be slower

t an t e more popu ar caran p ane trave , ut it canalso be an enjoyable meanso exp oring t e region.

Long- istance reyhound buses are the least expensive way to travel, and they also

offer the widest choice of estinations. Some of the most

useful bus links operate out of airports and train stations.There are 27 daily routesthroughout Arizona, as well aseig t ai y trips irect toTucson, rom P oenix’s S y Harbor airport. Greyhoundan a num er o ot er compa-nies also offer package tours.

Destinations include nationalparks, such as Grand Canyon,and casinos, as well as urbanand historical tours on luxury,air-conditioned buses. Thepackages include meals andaccommo ations.

Amtrak offers two trainroutes t roug Arizona – Sout west C ie runs ai y between Chicago and Los

Ange es, t roug t e Navajoand Hopi reservations, Winslow, Gallop, and Flagstaff, while the Sunset Limitedtravels three times a week

T R A V E L I N F O R M A T I O N 1 3

P UBLIC TRANSPORTATION

IN CITIES

ITH THE EXCEPTION of agsta , w ic can e

exp ore on oot, t e majorcities in Arizona, such asPhoenix and Tucson, are largeareas and are plagued by traffic problems. Visitors coulduse public transportation, suchas local buses, to tour these.

Boo ing a tour can o ten ethe best way of seeing bothmajor city sig ts an some ot e more remote scenery.

Phoenix and Scottsdale(see pp7 –80) are covereby the Valley Metro usand light rail system, as wellas by Ollie the Trolley bus service that runs betweenScotts ale’s resorts an its

s opping istricts. DowntownPhoenix also has the conve-nient Downtown Das which travels between theState Capito , Arizona Center,an t e Civic P aza. Tucson(see pp88–91) has the Sun Tran bus system.

AVEL I ES A IRLINE C ARRIERS

∑ www.lastminute.com

∑ www.expedia.com

∑ www.or itz.com

AeroMexico§ 800 237-6639.

Air Canada

§ 888 247-2262.

America West § (800) 235-9292.

American Air ines§ (800) 433-7300.

British Airways§ (800) 247-9297.

ontinental Airlines§ (800) 525-0280.

Delta Airlines§ 800 221-1212.

Northwest Airlines§ 800 225-2525.

Sout west Air ines§ (800) 435-9792.

Unite Air ines§ (800) 241-6522.

AIL USOMPANIES

Amtrak § (800) 872-7245.

rand Canyon Railway

§ 800 843-8724.

reyhound § 800 231-2222.

I Y UBLIC RANSI

Downtown Dash hoenix.§ 602 253-5000.

llie the Trolley

Scotts a e.§ 480 970-8130.

Sun Tranucson.§ (520) 792-9222.

Va ey Metrohoenix.§ (602) 253-5000.

DIRECTORY

A Grand Canyon Railway train on its way to Grand Canyon Village

Greyhound bus crossing South-

western desert landscape

etween Orlando and Los

Angeles, passing throughTucson and Yuma. Both offerNational Park Service culturaland natural heritage programs.The superliners have two-tiercars, a c oice o s eepingaccommodations, restaurant,ounge, an arge win ows.For rai ent usiasts, t e

Grand Canyon Railway o ers ot iese an steam

rail trips from Williams see p29 to the GranCanyon. The two-hour tripoffers packages with mealsand overnight accommo-dations. Western entertain-ment – inc u ing a posse oa guys staging an attac on

the train – is also included.



HEN THE MOVIE characters Thelman Louise, in the ilm o the

same name, won a kin o ree om onhe open roa s o the Southwest, they promote the pleasures o riving inthis visually spectacular and dramaticregion. However, for both residents

and visitors, driving is a necessary part of life in Arizona,an a car is o ten the only means o reaching remotecountry areas. Tours o picturesque regions, such as theNorth Rim o the Gran Canyon (see p55), Canyon eChelly National Monument see pp106 –9), or the Organ

Pipe Cactus National Monument see p96), are est ma e y car. The entire state is serve y a network o well-maintained roads, from multilane highways to winding,scenic routes that lead to even the remotest areas.

S U R V I V A L G U I D E1

EN ING A AR

OST OF THE major carrental businesses, such as

Alamo Avis, and Hertz, andsome budget dealers, such as

Budget , Dollar Rent-A-Car ,an T rifty Autoave out ets at

airports, and intowns an citiesacross Arizona.However, or t osep anning to y into P oenix,the least expensive optionmay be to arrange a fly-drivedeal (see p162).

There is a central comput-erized booking system formost of the car companies – use t e to - ree num eran t e Internet to in t ebest rates. Bargains cana so e oun y oo ingin advance and for traveluring t e o -season.

ENTING

NE OF THE most interestingand cost-effective ways

of enjoying Arizona’s vast andfascinating outdoors is in arecreational vehicle (RV). AnRV gives you more freedomto exp ore on your ownsc e u e, t e ease o unpac -ing only once, and the con- venience o coo ing in your own itc en.

Campgrounds are plentiful,and you can choose between

the grounds of the NationalPark Service, Forest Service,Bureau of Land Managementand private companies(see pp150 –53 & p159). TheRecreation Vehicle Rental Association (RVRA) o erstips on se ecting a renta RV,campground information, as we as renta agreementinformation. Make sure that

the rental company providesroadside assistance if required,and that it explains theoperations and usage of all theeatures of the RV. Also, planto spend your first night neart e ea er in case you requireadditional information afterriving an s eeping in t e RV.

Sports utility vehicle moving through Canyon de Chelly

Sign for RV parking

Traveling By Car & Four-Wheel Drive

EN ING U & 4WD

ISITORS PLANNING to travelhe ack roads of Arizona

to explore places like ChacoCanyon see pp112–3

Monument Valley (see pp102 –3) may wan o ren asports utility ve ic e SUV or a four-wheel

drive (4WD) vehi-c e; suc ve ic es provi egreater road clearance. Roadsthat require high clearance in Arizona are usually marked as

such. In wet conditions, it issafest to travel by a 4WD onthese roads, and it is alsoadvisable to use 4WD vehi-c es on irt roa s. Most o t emajor car rental companiesoffer WD SUVs, but youmust ask for guaranteeddelivery, specify the 4WD

Hertz car-rental logo

you want, and make sure you understand the usagerestrictions, i any. A so,some car renta agreementsdo not allow travel on

unpave roa s.For serious off-road 4WD

use, Farabee in Sedonarents modified jeeps forfour to eight hours of useon designated trails.



R ADSIDE SERVICES

A THOUGH ARIZONA asmany remote destinations,

service stations are usually

located in towns and at theintersections of major highways. Most have small storesthat offer drinks, snacks, andasic automotive parts. Se om

are they more than0 miles (9 km) apart.

Not a stations provi emechanical assistance,so visitors may wantto join a roadside

assistance organization,such as the Amer can Automobile Association AAA t at wi come totheir aid at a call.

In t e P oenix area, Freeway Safety Patrol vehicles assiststran e motorists y iagnos-ing minor ve ic e pro ems,helping with repairs, and

calling a tow truck.

T R A V E L I N F O R M A T I O N 1 5

AR EN AL OMPANIES

Alamo§ (800) 354-2322.

∑ www.alamo.com

Avis§ 800 331-1212.

∑ www.avis.com

Budget § (800) 527-0700.

∑ www.budget.com

Dollar Rent-A-Car § (800) 800-4000.

ertz§ (800) 654-3131.

∑ www. ertz.com

Thrifty Auto Rental § 800) 847-4389.

FF-ROAD 4WD

Farabee Jeep Rentals3009 W Hwy 89A,

Sedona, AZ 86336.

§ (928) 282-8700.

U SEFUL RGANIZATIONS

American Automobile Association

100 E Arkansas Dr,

enver, CO 80222.

§ 303 753-8800.

ecreational Vehicleental Association

3930 Un vers ty Dr,

air ax, VA 22030.

§ (703) 591-7130.

DIRECTORY

B ACKCOUNTRY DRIVING

FOR ANY TRAVEL in the remoteparts o Arizona, suc as

t e esert regions an Nativereservations, it is very important to c ec your routeto see if a WD vehicle isrequired. Although many ackcountry areas have

graded dirt and gravel roads, which can be used by conventional cars, a 4WD isessential in some wild andremote areas. Monument Valley, for example,

as a se -gui eriving tour on irt

roads. Contactmotoring organizationsand tourist centers for

information to assess your backcountrytrip properly.

There are certainasic safety points that

should be observedon any trip o t is in . P an your route and carry up-to-

ate maps. W en trave ingetween remote estinations,

inform the police or National

Park Service wardens of yourdeparture and expectedarrival times. Check weatherand road conditions before you start, and be aware of seasonal dangers such asas oo s. Carry p enty o

food and water, and a cellp one as an a e precau-tion. If you run out of gasor rea own, ca or e p

an stay wit your ve ic esince it offers protectionfrom the elements.

Native flora and fauna mustnot be removed or damaged. Also, visitors should not driveoff-road unless they are in aspecia y esignate area, an Gas service station on the legendary Route

Recreational vehicle in Arizonan backcountry

Unimproved road sign

especially not on Nativereservation land. If driving anRV, you must stop overnightin esignate campgroun s.



General In ex

Page numbers in bold type referto ma n entr es.

Access-Able Travel Source 159 Adams, Ansel 18 Adobe architecture 20 Aero Mexico 163 Agassiz Peak 65 Arts & Crafts furniture 65 Aiding a Comrade

Remington 25 Air Canada 163 Air fares 162

Air tours 0 Air Grand Canyon 60–61 Airstar Helicopters 0– 1Grand Canyon Airlines 60–61Papillon Grand CanyonHelicopters 60–61

Air travel 162–3 Aircra t

Davis-Mont an Air Force Base(Tucson) 91ima Air & Space Museum

(Tucson) 91 Airline carriers 163 Airports

Flagstaff 162Phoenix 1 2Tucson 162

Airstar Helicopters 60–61 Alamo (car rental) 165 Alcohol

age imitations 133Native reservations 133

Allen, Rex 99 America West 1 3 America West Arena 149 American Airlines 1 3 American Association of Retire

Persons (AARP) 159 American Automobile

Association (AAA) 165 American Express (credit card) 161 Amerin Foun ation 99 Amtrak 163

Anasaz Ancestra Pueb oans Ancestral Puebloans 36–9

Canyon de Chelly NationalMonument 10 –9

Chaco Culture NationalHistorical Park 112–13

Edge of Cedars Stateark 110, 117

Hovenweep NationaMonument 110

Mesa Verde National Park 118–19

Tra itiona Native Art 18–19Ute Mountain TribalPark 110–11

Andy Devine Days 32 Anglo-American settlers 40 Antelope Canyon 15, 2 Antelope Hills Golf Course 155 Antelope House Ruin 108

Antiques 143, 145 Anza, Juan Bautista de , 9 Apache 22

Cochise 22, 38, 41Geronimo 22, 38, 40–41

Apache County Fair 32 Apac e Junction

hotels 127restaurants 13

Apache Stables 59, 61 Apache Trail Tour 84–5

Boyce Thomson Arboretum 84–5Lost Dutchman State Park 84–5map 84–5

Roosevelt Dam 84– Superior 84–5Superstition Mountains 84–5Tonto National Monument 84–5 Weaver’s Needle Peak 84

Architecture of Arizona 0–2

adobe ovens 20adobe rancho 20 Antelope House 20contemporary architechture 21Frank Lloyd Wright 21

J. Knox Corbett House 21Traditional Adobe 20Mission Reviva 21Mary Elizabeth Jane Colter 21Pao o So eri 21San Xavier del Bac Mission 92–3Spanish Colonial 20

Arcology 21, Arcosanti 81 Arizona

Architecture of Arizona 20–21

Arizona through the Year 30–33 Arizona on t e Map 8–9 Art of Arizona 18–19

nterta nment n Arizona 1 8–9Flora & Fauna 16–17our Corners 100–1

Grand Canyon & Northern Arizona 4 –73Golf 15 – History of Arizona 34–41

otels 122–31Landscapes of Arizona 14–15Mines & Mineral Collecting 26–7Native Cu tures o Arizona 22–3Phoenix & Southern Arizona74–99

Portrait of Arizona 10–13Practical Information 158–161restaurants 132–41Route 66 in Arizona 28–9Shopping in Arizona 142–7

Special Vacations & Activities0– 3

Travel Information 162–5 Wild West 24–5

Arizona Association of Bed &Brea ast Inns 123

Arizona Book Festival 30 Arizona Cardinals 149

Arizona Dude Ranch Association 123, 5

Arizona Cowboy Poets

Gathering 31 Arizona Game & Fish

Department 1 3 Arizona Gems & Minerals 27 Arizona Golf Association 155 Arizona Hig an Ce tic Festiva

31 Arizona Mining & Mineral Museum

(Phoenix) 7 , 143, 145 Arizona Office of Tourism

158–9

Arizona Raft Adventures 0– 1 Arizona Science Center

Phoenix) 77 Arizona Snowbowl

(Flagstaff) 65, 152–3 Arizona- onora esert Museum

(Tucson) 90 Arizona State Capito Museum

(Phoenix) 76 Arizona State Museum (Tucson)

8

Arizona Through the Year 30–33 Air Affaire 32 Andy Devine Days 32 Apache County Fair 32 Arizona Book Festival 30 Arizona Cardinals Training

Camp 31 Arizona Cowboy Poets

Gathering 31 Arizona Hig an Ce tic

estival 31

Bill Williams Rendezvous 31actus League SpringTraining 30

Christmas City 33Coconino County Fair 32Easter Pageant 30E Cinco e Mayo 31Festival of Lights 33Fiesta Bowl Festival

Para e 33Flagstaff Festival of the Arts 31

F agsta Festiva o Science 32Flagstaff Winterfest 33Fort Verde Days 32Fourth of July 31Fourth Avenue Street Fair 30rontier ays

Grand Canyon Musicestival 32

Gui In ian Fair & Mar et 30Heldorado Days 32 Jazz on the Rocks Festival 32

Kingman Air & Auto S ow 32La Fiesta da Tumacacori 33La Vuelta de Bisbee 30La Fiesta de los Vaqueros 33London Bridge Days 33Maricopa County Fair 3Midnight at the Oasis

estiva 30

1 G E N E R A L I N D E X



Arizona Through the Year (cont.)Navajo Nation Fair &Rodeo 31

Payson Ro eo 31Phippen Western Art Show& Sale 31

Phoenix Open GolTournament 33

Pima County Fair 30Pine Country Pro Ro eo 31Pow Wow – Gem & MineralS ow 33endezvous of theGunfighters 32

St. Patric ’s Day Para e 30Scottsdale Celebration ofFine Art 33

Sedona International FilmFestival 30

Sedona Taste 31Silver Spur Rodeo 33Sout ern Arizona Square &Roun Dance & C oggingFestival 33

Summer est 31

Summer Rodeo Series 31Sunday on Central 30Shakespeare Sedona 31Sharlot Hall Museum Folk Arts FairTubac Festival of the Arts 33Tucson Gem & Mineral Show 33Tucson Internationa Mariac iConference 30

Tucson Open 33 Wahweap Festival of Lights 33

White Mountain BluegrassMusic Festiva 31

White Mountain Native American Art Festival & IndianMarket 31

Wyatt Earp Days 31 Yuma Colorado River Crossing

Balloon Festival 33 Arizona Trails Bed & Breakfast

eservation Service 12 Arizona White Knuckle

A ventures 150, Arrowhead Desert Tours 27 Art of Arizona 18–19

contemporary sculpture 19 Anglo art 18galleries 144–5Latin art 1modern Native artists 19ra itiona Native art 18shopping 144–5

see also Museums & galleries

ArtistsCharles Russell 18Daniel Namhinga 19, 79Frederic Remington 18, 24–5Thomas Moran 18 William Leigh 99

Avis (car rental) 165 Az-Tex Hats (Scottsdale) 142, 145

Aztec 101, 111

otels 130 Aztec Ruins National

Monument

BBabbitt Building 64Bacon’s Boots & Saddles

(Globe) 142, 145

Bac country camping 8

Grand Canyon Hikes 61Sky Island Treks 61

Balcony House (Mesa Verdeational Park) 119

Ballet 1 9Ballooning 151, 1 3Basketmakers 3Bank One Stadium 149Barrio Historic District (Tucson) 89Beasley Gallery 64Bed-&-Breakfasts 123

est Western 12Betatakin 10Bicycles, mountains 59, 151, 153Bi eape i A venture Tours 153

Billy the Kid 24Bill Williams Rendezvous 31Biltmore Fashion Park

(Phoenix) 145Biosphere 2 Centre (Tucson) 94Bird Cage Theatre 98Birdwatching 59, 91, 152–3

Cibo a Nationa Wi i eRefuge 153

Gran Canyon Fie Institute 59Southeastern Arizona Bird

Observatory 153Bisbee 97

hotels 127Blanding 101, 110

dge of Cedars State Park 110Bluff 101, 110, 116

environs 11hotels 130restaurants 140

Bo ac Museum o Fis & Wi i e(Farmington) 111

Boot i Cemetery 98Borgata of Scottsdale 145Boulder City (Nevada) 72

otels 12Boulders Club (Phoenix) 154–5Boyce Luther Gulley 82Boyce T ompson Arboretum 8Bright Angel Trail 49–50, 54–5

British Airways 163Bryant, Page 68Budget (car rental) 1 5

Bullfrog Marina 2Bureau of Indian Affairs 158–9Buses 1 3Buttes 1

CCacti 16

Saguaro National Park 75, 90

Cacti (cont.)Organ Pipe Cactus NationaMonument 75, 96

Cactus League SpringTraining 30

California condors 55Camelback Mountain 81Cameron


Cameron Trading Post 145–6Camp Ver e


State Historic Par 71Campgrounds 123

Canyons Antelope Canyon 15, 62Chaco Canyon 12, 112–13Canyon de Chelly 20, 106–09Grand Canyon 48–61

Canyon e C e y Nationaonument 20, 106–09

Antelope House Ruin 108exp oring 108–109

hiking 109hogan 107

it Carson 1“Long Walk” 109

assacre Cave 1 7Mummy Cave Ruin 106Navajo Fortress 10Navajo Nation 10Spider Rock 109tour 108Tsegi Overlook 108

White House Ruins 107 Yucca House Ruin 10

Canyon Explorations 61Canyon Ranch 152–3Cape Royal Drive 5Carlton, General James A. 109Car rental 1 4–5

Alamo 165 Avis 165Budget 165Dollar Rent-A-Car 165

Hertz 1 5Thrifty Auto Rental 165

Carson, Kit 10 , 109

Casa Grande NationalMonument 85

Casa Rinconada 112Cathe rals ChurchesCathedral Rock (Sedona) 68avesGrand Canyon Caverns 28

atchner Caverns 99

Center or Creative P otograp y (Tucson) 89

C aco Canyon 37Chaco Culture National Historical

Park 112–13

Fajada Butte 113architecture 112Chetro Ketl 112

1 7G E N E R A L I N D E X



Chaco Culture National HistoricalPar cont.Casa Rinconada 112

exp oring C aco 112–13Pueblo Alto 113Pueblo Bonito 37, 112

Chain hotels 22–3

Challenger Space Center(Phoenix) 83

C etro Ket 112Chili relleno 133C in e


Chihuahuan Desert 1Chiricahua National

Monument 7 , 99

Chloride 73Christmas City 33Chrysler Classic 33Churches

Immacu ate ConceptionC urc 20

San Xavier del Bac MissionTucson 20, 39, 92–3

St. Augustine Cathedral(Tucson) 88

Clanton gang 25, 98Cliff Palace (Mesa Verde National

Park) 118Climate see WeatherClinton, Bill 41C ot es Western wear 142, 145oconino ounty Fair

Cochise, Chief 22, 38, 41

Colorado Desert 14, 16Colorado Plateau 14, 15, 1 , 1Colorado Plateau Tour 116–17

Bluff 110, 11Edge of Cedars State

ark 110, 117Goosenecks State Park 11Hovenweep NationalMonument 110, 11

Monument Valley 102–3, 116Mesa Verde National

ar 117, 118–19tour map 116–17 Valley of the Gods 11

Colorado River 9, 7, 1 3Colossal Cave 91Colter, Mary E. J. 21, 54Comfort Inn 123Continental Airlines 163Contemporary Arc itec ture 21Copper City Rock Shop 27Coronado, Francisco

Vasquez e 38Cortez


Cosanti Foundation (Scottsdale) 81Cosanti Originals 1 – Cottonwood

hotels 124

Country Inn & Suites 122–3Cowboys

Levi Strauss denim 25

Rex A en Arizona Cowboy Museum 99

Rodeos & Wild West shows 148–9Cow oy on a Horse Remington 18Crafts, Native American 146–7

Cre it car s American Express 161Diner’s Club 161MasterCard 1 1 Visa 161

Crime 160

Crow Canyon ArcheologicaCenter 153

Crysta t erapy 68

Cycling, mountain 59, 61, 151, 153

Dams 41Roosevelt Dam 85Glen Canyon Dam 13, 2–3Hoover Dam 13, 72

Davi Holmes 21

J. Knox Corbett House 21Davis-Monthan Air Force Base

Tucson 91Deadwood Dick (Nat Love) 24Delta Airlines 163Desert Botanical Garden 82Deserts

Chihuahuan 1Colorado 16Sonoran 1

Desert View Drive 51, 54–5

Dineh 19Diner’s Club 161Disabled travellers 133, 159

Discount Agate House 27Discovery Tre s 59, 61

Dollar Rent-A-Car 165Dory trips 0

Grand Canyon Dories 61Grand Canyon Expeditions 1

Douglashotels 127

Downtown Dash 1 3Dragoon

hotels 128Du e ranc es 123, 2–

Earp, Wyatt , 31, 98Econolodge 123E ge o Ce ars State Par , 117Educational tours 59

Discovery Treks 1

Grand Canyon Fieldnstitute 61

Museum of Northern Arizona 61

El Cinco de Mayo 31El Con Mall 144–5El Pedregal Festival

Marketplace 144–5

El Presidio Historic DistrictTucson 88

El Tiradito (Tucson) 89

E er oste 159Embassy Suites 122–3Emergency services 161

Enc i a as 133Entertainment 148–9

Carlos R. Nakai 13classical music, ballet& opera 149

Glen Canyon NationalRecreation Area 13, 62–3

Grand Canyon National

ark 13, 54– information 148–9nightlife 149rodeo 13, 148–9Saguaro National Park 13, 90sports 1 8–9

Escape Adventures 59, 61

Etiquette 1 1

Fajada Butte 113

Far Flung Adventures 153Farmington 101, 111

Bo ac Museum o Fis & Wildlife 111environs 11hotels 131map 101restaurants 1 1Farmington Museum 111Salmon Ruins 111

Fashion Square 80, 144–5

FBR Open Golf Tournament 33, 154Festiva s e Arizona T roug

the YearFestival of Lights 33Fiesta Bow Festiva & Para e 33Films

Old Tucson Studios 90–91, 148–9First Mesa 23, 104Fire services 1 0Fishing 151

Flagsong (Hyde) 78

Flagstaff 4– Agassiz Peak 65 Arts & Crafts furniture 65 Arizona Snowbowl 65Babbitt Building 64Beasley Gallery 4Clyde Tombaugh 4Diego Rivera 64historic downtown 4hotels 124Lowell Observatory 4

map 65Mars Hill 64Museum Club 149Museum of Northern Arizona 66Northern Arizona

niversity 64Old Main Art Museum &Gallery 4

1 8 G E N E R A L I N D E X



Flagstaff (cont.)Percival Lowell 64Pioneer Museum 65

restaurants 134iordan Mansion State HistoricPark 5

Weatherford Hotel 4 Weiss Collection 64

Flagstaff Winterfest 33F agsta Festiva o t e Arts 31Flagstaff Visitor Center 159F an rau Science Center 89Flea markets 144

Flora & Fauna 16–17

Arizona Upland 1Chihuahuan Desert 16Colorado Plateau 1 –17Colorado Desert 16High Country 1 –17Sonoran Desert 1Sky Islands 14, 16

Foo & Drin 132–41

intro uction to Sout westernfood 132

shopping 142

see also RestaurantsFord, John 103Fort Verde at Camp Verde State

Historic Park 71Fort Verde Days 32Four Corners 100–19

Canyon de Chelly Nationalonument 10 –9

Chaco Culture NationalHistorica Par 112–13

Colorado 44

Colorado Plateau Tour 116–17Mesa Ver e NationaPark 118–19

Monument Valley 102–3, 11New Mexico 8, 39, –

tah 8, 44–5Four orners Monument Navajo

Tribal Park 111

Four Corners School 152–3Four-w ee riving 164

Farabee Jeep Rentals 165

Fourt Avenue Street Fair 0, 33Franciscans 38–9, 92–3Fray Marcos de Niza 38Frontier Days 3Fun Time Boat Rentals 151, 153

Gable, Clark 73Ga eries se useums

galleriesGanado & Hubbell Trading Post 105

Hubbell Trading Post NationaHistoric Site 10

John Lorenzo Hubbell 10Gardens see Parks

gardensGarrett, Sheriff Pat 24Geronimo 22, 38, 40–41

Geology, Grand Canyon 52–3

Glen Canyon National Recreation Area 2–3

Antelope Canyon 15, 62

Bullfrog Marina 62–3Glen Canyon Dam 13, 62–3Halls Crossing 3Lake Powell 44, 3Lees Ferry 62Rainbow Bridge NationalMonument 2

Wahweap Marina 62–3Globe 8

restaurants 137Goldwater, Senator Barry 78

Go Canyon Go Resort 15Gold Mine Tours 27Go panning tours 27Golf 154–5

Antelope Hills GolfCourse 15 –

Boulders Club 154–5Gold Canyon GolResort 1

Associations 1GA Tour 154

Randolf Park 155Sedona Golf Resort 154–5Torres B ancas 1Troon North 154–5 Ventana Canyon Resort 15

Goulding’s Lodge Monument Valley Tours 153

Grand Canyon 8–9, 4 – 1

adventures 58–61Bright Angel Trail 49–50, 54–5eology 52–3

Grand Canyon National Park50–51, 54–5

Grandview Point 48avasu Canyon 48otels 12orth Rim 49

Phantom Ranch 49restaurants 134South Rim 49, 52 Yavapai Point 49

Grand Canyon Adventures 58–61

Gran Canyon air tours 60 Air Grand Canyon 61 Airstar Helicopters 61Grand Canyon Airlines 0– 1Papillon Grand CanyonHelicopters 1

Grand Canyon backcountry camping 58

Grand Canyon Hikes 58, 61Sky Island Treks 58, 61

Grand Canyon Caverns 28

Gran Canyon ory trips 60Grand Canyon Dories 61Grand Canyon Expeditions 61

Grand Canyon educationalours 59

Discovery Treks 1Grand Canyon FieldInstitute 59, 1

Grand Canyon educationaltours cont.Museum of Northern Arizona 61

Grand Canyon kayak supporttrips 61

Arizona River Runners 1Grand Canyon Discovery 61

Grand Canyon mountain biking 59

Arizona Outback Adventures 61Grand Canyon mule trips 59

Apache Stables 59, 61Havasupai TouristEnterprise 59, 61

Xanterra Parks & Resorts 59, 1

Grand Canyon Music Festival 32Grand Canyon National Park 50–55

Bright Angel Trail 49–50, 54–5California condors 55Cape Royal Drive 55Co ora o River 1Desert ViewDesert View Drive 51, 54Grand Canyon Lodge 50Grand Canyon Village 54Grandview Point 5

Hermit Road 50, 54Hermits Rest gift store 54Hopi House 5Hopi Point 54

o b Stu io 0Lees Ferry 50Maricopa Point 54Nort Rim 50, 5North Kaibab Trail 50, 55aria River 50hantom Ranch 49–50, 54

oint Imperial 51, 55South Rim 5Trailview Overlook 54Tusayan Ruin 51, 55avapai Point

Grand Canyon river trips 60

Arizona Raft Adventures 1Canyon Explorations 61Hatch River Expeditions 1OARS 1

Grandview Point 54

Greater Phoenix Convention & Visitors Bureau 1 9

Green Valley hotels 128

Grey Mountainrestaurants 141

Greyhound 163

Gulley, Boyce Luther 82Gu ey, Mary Lou 82Guild Indian Fair & Market 30Gunfight at OK Corral 25, 75, 98

Halls Crossing 63Hatch River Expeditions 60Havasu Canyon 23Havasu Fa s 23, 48

Havasupai 23

Havasupai Tourist Enterprise 59, 61




Health 160–61Hear , Dwig t 78Heard, Maie 78

Hear Museum P oenix78–9, 1 9

Heard Museum Shop 145Heart of Arizona Tour 0–

Jerome 70Prescott 70Se ona 70Camp Verde 70Tuzigoot Nationa Monument 70Montezuma Castle NationalMoument 70

He ora o Days 32Herberger Theater Center 149Heritage Square (Phoenix) 7Hiking Walk Softly Tours 150

Historic Block (Tucson) 88Historic parks Yuma Crossing State 9 Yuma Territoria Prison 9

Historic Route 66 Association of Arizona 145

Historic towns & cities Aztec 101, 111Blanding 101, 110Bluff 101, 110Farmington 1 1, 11Ganado Trading Post 101, 105Tuba City 101, 104 Win ow Roc 101, 10

History 34–41 Ancient cu tures 38 Ancestral Puebloans 36

Apache warriors 41 Arrival of Anglo-Americans 40 Arrival of the Spanish 38Colony of New Mexico 39Deman for water 1 Jesuit missions 39Indian wars 40Navajo & Apache 38Southwest today 41Timeline 35, 38–41

hogan 107

Ho o amCasa Grande NationalMonument 8

Pueblo Grande Museum & Archeological Park 81Saguaro National Park 75

Holbroohotels 126restaurants 13

Holiday Inn 123Holidays, public 33

Ho i ay, Doc , 9Hoover Dam 13, 72

Boulder City 72Lake Mead 72

Hoover, Herbert 72oover am Museum(Boulder City) 72opis , –

Hopis (cont.)Hopi Indian Reservation 10 – Canyon de Chelly National

Monument 106–9Grand Canyon Village 54kachina 23, 104 Wupatki National Monument 67Hopi House 54

Hopi In ian Reservation 104–5Third Mesa 23, 104First Mesa 23, 104Hopi Cultural Center 10kachina 23, 104Ponsi Visitor Center 104–5

Second Mesa 23, 10 Walpi 104

Hopi Rainbow ancer 23Hopi spirituality 23Horseback riding 152–3Hoste ing Internationa American Youth Hostel (HI/AYH) 159

Hot air ballooning 151Hot Air Expeditions 153Northern Light BalloonExpeditions 153

Hotels 122–31Hovenweep National Monument

110, 116Hualapai 23Hubbe Tra ing Post Nationa

Historic Site 10Hubbell, John Lorenzo 105Huevos 132Huntington, W.D. 110Hyde, Doug (Flagsong 7

In ian reservationsHopi Indian Reservation 101, 104Ute Mountain Tribal Park 101,11 –11

Indian wars 40–41nns 12Insurance 160

Jackson Stairway 36

Jazz in Arizona 149 Jazz on the Rocks Festival 32erome 69hotels 12restaurants 13

Jesuit missions 39 Johnson, George 98

Kaibab Plateau 52Katchner Caverns

State Park 9Kayaking 61, 1 1, 1 3Kayak support trips 1

Arizona River Runners 61Grand Canyon Discovery 61ayentarestaurants 141

Keet Seel 104

Kingman 72hotels 12restaurants 13

Kingman Air & Auto S ow 32Kino, Father Eusebio 39Kitt Peak National Observatory 94 K va 36–7, 11Kolb, Emery & Ellsworth 50, 65

La Fiesta de los Vaqueros 33La Fiesta e Tumacacori 33La Vuelta de Bisbee 30Lake Havasu City 73

hotels 12London Bridge Days 33restaurants 13

Lake Mead Visitor Center 153Lake Mead National Recreation Area

Lake Powell 62–3boating 63Glen Canyon 15, 2–3Rainbow Bridge NationalMonument 2

Lake Powell Resorts & Marinas 153Lancaster, Burt 2Landscapes of Arizona 14–15

geology 52–3mesas, buttes & spires 14–15geographical regions 14

anguages 12Lazy K Bar Guest Ranch 74, 130Learning vacations 153Lees Ferry 2Leigh, William 99

Lemmon, Mount 94Levi Strauss denim 2Lombard, Carole 72London Bridge

Lake Havasu City) 33,“Long Walk” 109Lost Dutc man State

Park 84Louisiana Purchase 39Lowell, Percival 4Lowell Observatory

(Flagstaff) 4

Main Event 144–5Malls 144–5

aps Apache Trail Tour 84– Arizona 8–9Canyon e C e y 108–9Chaco Culture National

istorical Park 112–13

Co ora o 8Colorado Plateau Tour 116–17Downtown Tucson 89Exploring Metropolitan

hoenix 80Flagstaff 65Four Corners 101geographical regions 14




Maps (cont.)G en Canyon NationaRecreation Area 62–3

Gran Canyon NationaPark 50–51

Heart of Arizona Tour 70Lake Powell & Glen CanyonNational Recreation Area 62–3

Monument Valley 102Mesa Ver e Nationa Par 118–19New Mexico 8, 44–5Pictoria map, Arizona & t eFour Corners 44–5

Area map, Grand Canyon

& Northern Arizona 7Phoenix 77oute in Arizona 28–9

Southern Arizona 75Tucson 90

tah 8, 44– Maricopa Point 54Martin, Casey 154

assacre Cave 10MasterCard 161McCu oc , Robert 73

Medical treatment 160esahotels 128

Mesa Market Place SwapMeet 144–5

Mesa Verde NationalPark 118–19

Ba cony House 119Cliff Palace 118gui e tours 118hotels 131

Spruce Tree House 118Square Tower House 119 Wetherill Mesa Long

House 119esas 1

Metrocenter 144Metrocenter Mall (Phoenix) 145Metropolitan Tucson Visitors

Bureau 159exican Hathotels 131

i Casa Su Casa 12Midnight at the Oasis Festival 30Mines & Mineral Collecting 26–7

Arizona minerals 27safety tips 26ours 2resourcesrock & gem shows 26go panning 27

Mine sitesBisbee 26, 97

Globe 2 , 85 Jerome 26, 69

Mineralogical Society of Arizona 27Miraval 152–3Missions 20, 39, 92–3

San Xavier el Bac Mission(Tucson) 20, 92–3

Jesuit missions 39

Mission Revival architecture 21Montezuma Castle Nationa

Monument 47, 71

Monument Valley 14, 44,101–3 131art & ruins 102–3buttes 102Gouldings Lodge 103ui e tours 102

hotels 131 John Ford’s Point 103mittens 1 2– restaurants 141Three Sisters 103

Moran, Thomas 18Morrison, George (Red Totem) 78Mote s 22–

Mount Lemmon 94Mount Lemmon Ski Valley 153Mount Ute 2Mountain biking 59, 61, 151, 153Mule trips 59

Apache Stables 59, 61avasupai Tourist Enterprise59, 61

Xanterra Parks & Resorts 59, 61Mummy Cave Ruin 10Museums & ga eries Amerind Foundation

Dragoon 99 Arizona Historical Society

Museum (Tucson) 89 Arizona Mining & Minera

Museum (Phoenix) 76 Arizona State Museum

(Tucson) 89

Arizona-Sonora Desert MuseumTucson 90

Arizona Science Center(Phoenix) 77

Arizona State Capito Museum(Phoenix) 76

Beasley Gallery (Flagstaff) 4Biosphere 2 Center (Tucson) 94Bolack Museum of Fish & Wildlife (Farmington) 111Chapin Mesa Museum (Mesa

Verde) 118Challenger Space Center(Phoenix) 83

Co ossa Tucson 91Cosanti Foundation

Scotts a e 81dge of Cedars State Park(Blanding) 110arm ngton Museum(Farmington) 111

Gila County Historical Museum

Payson) 85all of Flame MuseumP oenix 82eard Museum (Phoenix) 78–9eard Museum ShopPhoenix 147oover Dam MuseumBou er City 72

Museums & galleries (cont.)itt Pea Observatory(Tucson) 94

Museum of Northern Arizona(Flagstaff) 64–6

Navajo Nation Museum(Window Rock) 10

Old Main Art Museum & Gallery (Flagstaff) 64hippen Art Museum

(Prescott) 71oenix Art Museum

(Phoenix) 77hoenix Museum of History

Phoenix 77ima Air & Space MuseumTucson 91ioneer Living History Village(Phoenix) 83ioneer Museum(Flagstaff) 65ueb o Gran e Museum &

Archeological Park(Phoenix) 81

Quec an In ian Museum

(Yuma) 95ainbow Forest Museum(Holbrook) 7ex Allen Arizona Cowboy Museum (Willcox) 99iordan Mansion State HistoricPark (Flagstaff) 65ose Tree Inn Museum(Tombstone) 98

S ar ot Ha Museum(Prescott) 71

Smoki Museum (Prescott) 71San Xavier el Bac Mission(Tucson) 92–3

Titan Missile Museum(Tucson) 91

Tombstone Courthouse(Tombstone) 98

Tucson Museum of Art(Tucson) 88

Mystery Cast e 82

Namingha, Daniel (Red-Tailed

Hawk) 19, 79Napoleon 39Narbona, Lt. Antonio 107National Forest Service 123

National Historical ParksTubac Presidio 96–7Tumacacori 96–7

National Monuments Aztec Ruins (Aztec) 111

Canyon e C e y(Chinle) 106–9

Casa Grande Ruins(Coolidge) 85

Chiricahua National Monument(Willcox) 99

Hovenweep National Monument(Cortez) 110, 11




National Monuments (cont.)Montezuma Cast e NationaMonument (Camp Verde) 71

Navajo National Monument 104Organ Pipe Cactus NationalMonument 75, 9

Rainbow Bridge NationaMonument (Page) 62

Sunset Crater Volcano NationalMonument (Flagstaff) 67

Tonto National Monument(Roosevelt) 84

Tuzigoot National Monument(Camp Verde) 9

Walnut Canyon NationalMonument (Flagstaff) 67

Wupatki National Monument(Flagstaff) 67

National Parks 47

Gran Canyon Nationa Par0–

Mesa Ver e Nationa Par FourCorners 117, 118–19

Petrified Forest National Park 67Saguaro Nationa Par

(Tucson) 90National Park Service 159

Native Americans Amerind Foundation 99 Ancestral Puebloans 36–9crafts 146–7etiquette 161Hear Museum P oenix78–9, 147

history 35–41people 22–3, 38, 79

Native arts & crafts 146–7buying from Natives 147rugs 146baskets 14trading posts 14pottery 146silverwork 14carvings 147

Native cultures of Arizona 22–3

Native Peopes o t e Sout west 9

Navajo 22 38

Canyon de Chelly 10 –9Monument Valley 102–3Heard Museum (Phoenix)78–9, 1 7

Monument Valley Navajo Tribalark 102–3

Navajo Fortress 10Navajo National Monument 104

Betatakin 104Keet Seel 104

Navajo Nation Fair & Rodeo 32

Navajo Tourism Department 59New Mexico 8, 39, 4–5

Nichols Expeditions 150, 153Nightlife 149

Nogales 97

restaurantsNorth Kaibab Trail 50, 54–5North Rim, Grand Canyon 49, 54–5

Northern Arizona 47, 2–73

Flagstaff 64–5Heart of Arizona Tour 70

Hoover amLake Powell & Glen Canyon

ational Recreation Area 62–3Museum of Northern ArizonaSedona 68

Northern Arizona University (Flagstaff) 64

Northern Light BalloonExpeditions 153

Northwest Airlines 163

Oak Creek Canyon 69

ObservatoriesSoutheastern Arizona BirdObservatory 153

Lowell Observatory 4Kitt Peak Observatory 94

O’Connor, Hugh 88OARS 0– 1Oatman 28, 73

OK Corral, Gunfight at

(Tombstone) 25, 7 , 98OK Corral Stables 152–3Old Town Artisans 14Old Towne Shopping District 145O Tucson Stu ios 90, 148–9

Ollie the Trolley 163Oñate, Juan de 39One-of-a-Kind Shops 1Opera Arizona Opera (Tucson) 149

Organ Pipe Cactus National

onument 96Orpheum Theater (Phoenix) 149

Page, Utahhotels 131restaurants 141

Paleozoic era 14Papago Indian woman 34–5Papago Par P oenix 82Papillon Grand Canyon

Helicopters 0– 1Parks & gardens

Desert Botanical GardenPhoenix 82

Kartchner Caverns State Park 99Papago Park (Phoenix) 82Petrified Forest National Park 67Saguaro National Park

Tucson 90Payson 44Payson Rodeo 31

Peddler’s Pass 1 – Personal Security & Health 160–61

Petrified Forest National ParRainbow Forest Museum 67

Petroglyphs 37, 7, 102Phantom Ranch 9–50, 5Phippen Western Art Show

& Sale 31

Phoenix 75–83

airport 162festivals 32–3

ote s 128maps 75, 77restaurants 137 weat er 32

Phoenix Art Museum 77P oenix Museum o History

77Phoenix Fairgrounds Antique

Market 145Phoenix Park ’n Swap 144–5Phoenix Symphony Hall 149

P oenix Zoo 82Pima Air & Space Museum

Tucson 91Pima County Courthouse

(Tucson) 88Pima County Fair 3Pine Country Pro Rodeo 31Pinetop-Lakeside


Pink Jeep Tours 151, 153

Pioneer Museum (Flagstaff)65

P ymout Roc 12Point Imperial 51, 55Poisoned Pen 144–5Poisonous wildlife 17Police 161

Ponsi Visitor Center 10 – Portrait of Arizona 10–13

climate & environment 11–12cultural crossroads 12

entertainment & the arts 13po itics & economy 12–13

Pow Wow – Gem & MineralShow 33

Powell, John Wesley 63Powell, Lake 43, 62–3, 153

La e Powe & G en Canyonational Recreation Area 62–3

Practical Information 158–61

rescotthotels 126

restaurants 13Public holidays 33

Public transportation 1 3

Pueb o A to 113Pueblo Bonito 112Pueblo Grande Museum & Arc eo ogica Par 81

Pueblo people see AncestralPuebloans 36–7

Pueblo Indian Revolt 39Pueblos 38–9

Chaco Canyon 12Chaco Culture National

istorica Par 112–13Montezuma Castle NationalMonument 71

Navajo National Monument 10Tuzigoot National Monument 69

Puebloan ruins 23




Quartzsite 7

Queen Mine Tour 27

R Rafting & kayaking, whitewater 151–

Rail Amtrak 163Grand Canyon Railway 163

see also Train travelRainbow Bri ge Nationa

Monument 62Rainbow Forest Museum 7

Rama a Inns 123Ramsey’s Fine Jewelry &

Minerals 143, 145Ranches, dude 123, 152–3

Rawhide WesternTown 148–9

Recreational Vehicle Rental Association (RVRA) 164–5

Re -Taile Haw Naming a19, 79

Re Totem Morrison 78

Remington, Frederic 18, 24–5 Aiding a Comrade 24–5Cowboy on a Horse

The Conversation, or Dubious

ompany 24Rendezvous of the Gunfighters

(Tombstone) 32entingCar 164 Vs 1 4SUVs & 4WDs 164

estaurants 132–41Ri ing 152–

Riordan Mansion State Historicark (Flagstaff) 5

iver trips 0

Arizona Raft Adventures 60–61Canyon Explorations 60–61Hatch River Expeditions 60–61OARS 60–61

Rivera, Diego 64Rock & mineral clubs 27

Roc c imbing , 153Rocky Mountain Climbing

School 153Rocky Mountains 1Rodeos & Wild West

shows 148–9

Roosevelt, Theodore 50Rose Tree Inn Museum 98Route in Arizona 8–

Flagstaff 29, 64–5Holbrook 29

Oatman 28, 7locator map 29Seligman 28 Williams 29, 69

Route Place 143, 145Route Roadworks

143, 145Russell, Charles 18

SSaba’s Western Store P oenix

42, 145

Sabino Canyon Tours 94Safety 161

Saguaro National Park 75, 90

Saint Patrick’s Day Parade 30Salmon Ruins

reat KivaSalt River CanyonSan Xavier del Bac Mission 92–3

A tar Dome 93Chapel of Our Lady 93açade of the Church 92

at er Eusebio Kino 92Main Altar 92

Schnelby, Theodore 8Scott, Winfield 80Scottsdale 80

otels 129restaurants 138

Scottsdale Arts District & ArtWalk 144–5

Scottsdale Celebration ofine Art

Scottsdale Fashion Square 144–5Second Mesa, Hopi Reservation

otels 131restaurants 141

Sedona 44, 8

Cathedral Rock 68crystal therapy 68otels 127

restaurants 136spa resorts 68 vortexes 68

Sedona Golf Resort 154–5Se ona Internationa Fi m

estival 30Sedona/Oak Creek Gem &

Mineral Society 27Sedona Taste 31Seligman, Route in Arizona 28

Senior travelers 158–9

Sewell’s Indian Arts 14Shakespeare Sedona 31

S ar ot Ha Museum Fo Arts Fair 31

Sheplers 142, 145Shopping 142–7

Show Lowhotels 129restaurants

Silver Spur Rodeo 33Skiing & winter sports 2–3

Sky Island Treks 58, 61Sky Islands 12, 14, 16

Smit sonian Institution 152–3Smoki Museum 71Society or Accessib e Trave &

ospitality (SATH) 159Soleri, Paolo

Cosanti Foundation 21, 81Sonoran Desert 14South Rim, Grand Canyon 52, 54

Southern Arizona 94–9

Bisbee 97Chiricahua National

MonumentKatchner Caverns State Park 99 Amerind Foundation 99Organ Pipe Cactus NationaMonument 96

Noga es 97Tombstone 98Tubac 96–97 Yuma 9

Southern Arizona Adventures0, 1 3

Southern Arizona Square & RounDance & Clogging Festival 33

Southwest Airlines 163Spa resorts 68Spa vacations 152–3

Spanis Co onia arc itec ture 20Specialty Vacations & Activities 150–3

Spider Rock (Canyon deChelly) 109

Spruce Tree House (Mesa Verde

National Park) 118Square Tower House (Mesa Verde

Nationa Par 119Surprise Canyon 52STA Trave 159Stoneridge Golf Course 154–5Student travelers 159

Stu ent Universe 159Summer

festivals 31temperatures 12, 32

Summer Rodeo Series 31Summerfest 31Sun Tran 163Sunrise Park Ski Resort 152–3Sun ay on Centra P oenix 30Super 8 in Arizona 123Superior

restaurants 139

Taliesin West 80–81

Tanque Verde Swap Meet 144–5Taxes 122Temperatures 32

The Conversation, or Dubious

Company (Remington) 24Theme parks

Old Tucson Studios (Tucson)90, 148–9

T ree Sisters 102Third Mesa 23, 104Ticketmaster

Phoenix 149Tucson 149

Time zones 158Titan Missile Museum

(Sahuarita) 91Tlaquepaque Artist’s Village

68, 144–5Tohono O’odham 23




Tombaugh, Clyde 64Tombstone 148

hotels 129

restaurants 13Tombstone Visitor Center 149Tonto National Monument 84Torres Blancas Golf Club 15Tour West 153Traditional Adobe 20Trailview OverlookTrain travel 163

Trave 162–5

air 162–3backcountry 1 5

bus 1 3insurance 160Native reservations 1 1roadside services 165safety 1 0train 163

Traveler’s Aid Society 160–61Troon Nort Go Course 1True B ue Jewe ry & Gi t

Shop 143, 145Tsegi Over oo 108

Tuba City 104restaurants 141

Tubac 96–7

Tubac Festival of the Arts 33Tubac Presidio State Historic

Park 97Tucson 88–93

airport 162hotels 129restaurants 139

Tucson Arts District Partnership 145

Tucson Gem & Mineral Show 33Tucson Gem & Minera Society 27Tucson International Mariachi

Conference 30Tucson Mall 1 – Tucson Mineral & Gem World 143, 145

Tucson Museum of Art 88Tucson Old Pueblo Lapidary

C ub 27Tucson Symphony Box Office

149Tumacacori

restaurants 140

Tumacacori National HistoricalPar 97

Tusayan Ruin 51, 5

Tuzigoot Nationa Monument 9

Twisters Soda Fountain 29, 137

United Airlines 163niversitiesNort ern Arizona University (Flagstaff) 64

University o Arizona Museumof Art (Tucson) 89

University of Arizona (Tucson) 89

US Geological Survey (USGS) 153USDA Forest Service 1 0, 1 3Utah 8, 44–5

Ute 23Ute Mountain Tribal Park 110

Valley Metro 1 3 Vegetarian food 13

Ventana Canyon Golf Resort 155 Visa (credit card) 1 1

Vishnu Schist 52 Vista Encantada 55

Wa weap Festiva o Lig ts 33 Wahweap Marina 63 Walk Softly Tours 150, 153 Walpi 10 –5 Watersports 151, 1 3 Weatherford Hotel 4 Weather 30–33

Weiss Collection 64 Western ote s 123 Western wear 142, 145 Wetherill Mesa Long House (Mesa

Ver e Nationa Par 119 Wheelchair access see

Disabled travellers White Mountain Bluegrass Music

Festival 31 White House Ruins 107 White Mountain Native American

Art Festiva & In ian Mar et 31 Whitewater rafting &

kayaking 151, 153

Wild River Expeditions 153 Wil West

Billy the Kid 24

Calamity Jane 24Chloride 24Clanton gang 25Deadwood Dick 24Doc Holliday 25Gun ig t at t e OK Corra 2McLaury Brothers 2Sheriff Pat Garrett 24 Virgil Earp 2 Wyatt Earp 2

Wildfire Golf Club 155

Wi i e ora & Fauna Williams 29, 69

ote s 127restaurants 137

Window Rock 105

ote s 131restaurants 141

Winslowhotels 127restaurants 137

Wright brothers 91

Wright, Frank Lloyd 20, 80Taliesin West 21, 80–81

Wyatt Earp Days 3

Xanterra Parks & Resorts 59, 61

Yavapai Point Yucca House Ruin 106 Yuma 95


Yuma Colorado River CrossingBalloon Festival 33

Yuma Crossing State HistoricPark 95

Yuma Territorial Prison StateHistoric Park 95

Yuma Lake 95

ZZoos

Phoenix Zoo 82Zuni tribe 19

1 7 G E N E R A L I N D E X



A C K N O W L E D G M E N T S 1 7 5

AcknowledgmentsM AIN ONTRIBUTOR

Paul Franklin is a travel writer and

p otograp er specia izing in t e Unite States

and Canada. He is the author of several guideoo s an magazine artic es, an is ase in

Livingston, Texas.

CON RIBU ORS

Nancy Mikula, Donna Dailey, Michelle de

Larrabeiti, Philip Lee.

F ACTCHECKERS

Paul Franklin and Nancy Mikula.

P ROOFREADER

Sonia Ma i .

INDEXER

Chumki Sen.

DK L NDON

P UBLISHER

Douglas Amrine.

P UBLISHING ANAGERS

Fay Franklin, Jane Ewart.

EDITORIAL & DESIGN A SSISTANCE

Brigitte Arora, Tessa Bin oss.

A DDITIONAL P HOTOGRAPHY

Pau Fran in, Steve Gorton, Dave King, An rew

McKinney, Nei Mers , Tim Ri ey, C ive Streeter.

C ARTOGRAPHY

Uma Bhattacharya, Alok Pathak, Ben Bowles,

Rob Clynes, Sam Johnston, James Macdonald

(Colourmap Scanning Ltd).

SENIOR DTP DESIGNER

Jason Litt e.

SENIOR ARTOGRAPHIC EDITOR

Casper Morris.

DK P ICTURE L BRARY

Gemma Woo war , Hay ey Smit ,

Romaine Werblow.

P RODUC ION ON ROLLER

Louise Daly.

A DDI IONAL CON RIBU IONS

Sonal Bhatt, Brett Steel, Ros Walford.

DORLING KINDERSLEY would like to thank the

following people whose contributions and

assistance ave ma e t e preparation o t is

book possible.

SPECIAL A SSISTANCE

Many thanks for the invaluable help of the

o owing in ivi ua s: Ju iet Martin, Hear

Museum; Stacy Reading and Brett Brooks,P oenix CVB; Bar ara MacDona an Hope

Patterson, Tucson CVB; Leslie Connell and

Ana Masterson, Flagstaff CVB; Michelle

Mountain, Museum o Nort ern Arizona; Tom

Pittinger, Grand Canyon National Park; Russ

Bo ner, C aco Cu ture Nationa Historic Par ;

and all the national park staff in the region.

P HOTOGRAPHY P ERMISSIONS

Dor ing Kin ers ey wou i e to t an a t e

cathedrals, churches, museums, hotels,

restaurants, shops, galleries, national and state

parks, and other sights for their assistance and

ind permission to photograph at their

esta is ments.

Placement Key – t=top; tl=top left; tlc=top

left center; tc=top center; trc=top rightcenter; tr=top rig t; c a=center e t a ove;

ca=center above; cra=center right above;

cl=center left; c=center; cr=center right;

clb=center left below; cb=center below;

crb=center right below; bl=bottom left;

= ottom; c= ottom center; c = ottom

center left; br=bottom right; d=detail.

Works of art and images have been produced

with the permission of the following copyright

o ers: Fran L oy Wrig t Foun ation 21ca,

81b; University of Arizona Fine Arts Oasis

Barbara Grygutis Front Row Center 88tl.

T e pu is ers wou i e to t an t e

following individuals, companies, and

picture libraries for their kind permission to

reproduce their photographs:

AFP: Spaceimaging.com 9t; ALAMY : 72t, 161c;

ARIZONA G AME & FISH DEPARTMENT: Pat O’Brien

2tc; ARIZONA OFFICE OF TOURISM: Chris Coe

28tr; ARIZONA STATE LIBRARY : Archive+Public

Records, Archive Division, Phoenix

no.99–0281 34; ARIZONA STATE P ARKS: K. L. Day

99t; ASSOCIATED PRESS: Louisa Gauer e 29c ,

Roy Dabner 148b; AURA/NOAO/N ATIONAL

SCIENCE FOUNDATION: 94b.

BRANSON R EYNOLDS: 23 ; BRIDGEMAN ART LIBRARY

Christie’s London Walter Ufer (1876–1936) The

Southwest 6–7; Frederic Remington

(1861–1909) Aiding a Comrade c.1890 24–5,

The Conversation, or Dubious Company 24b.



1 7 A C K N O W L E D G M E N T S

C

CORBIS: 41t, 41clb, 41b; Art on File 21clb, 21br;

Bettman Cowboy on a Horse Frederic

Remington (1861–1909) 18cl, 24cb, 24tr, 38cb,

39bl, 43c, 109b, 162tc; Duomo/Jason Wise15 t; New Sport/Gark Newkirk 15 b; James L.

Amos 110t; Tom Bean 2–3, 12b, 17br, 26tr,

26b, 30cra, 33b, 37cr, 49b, 60b, 68bc, 142br,

151t, 151c, 152t; Patrick Bennett 68br; Yann

Arthus-Bertrand 91b; Geoffrey Clements 1 7t;

Ric ar A. Coo e 18 ; Ric ar Cummins 13t,

68t, 68c, 73b; Owen Franken 165t; Marc

Garanger 1 1b; Raymond Gehman 84cla,

85cb; Lowell Georgia 84bl, 84br; Mark E.Gi son 95 ; Darre Gu in 17tr, 17 c; Ric ar

Hamilton 160b; Jan Butchofsky-Houser 27t,

164t; Dave G. Houser 85clb, 144b; George H.

H. Huey 8 –7, 9 c; Liz Hymans 37t; Dewitt

Jones 36tr; Catherine Karnow 22ca, 68clb,

8cb, 1 4b; Layne Kennedy 58c, 98b; Douglas

Kirkland 120–21; Danny Lehman 59t, 142c;

James Marshall 20tr; Joe McDonald 91t; David

Muench 1c, 17cr, 3 –7, 51c, 73t, 85t, 114–5;Marc Muench 58b; Pat O’Hara 52bl; Gabe

IMPACT PHOTOS: Jacquie Spector 28bl;

INDEXSTOCK IMAGERY : Mark Gibson 144t;

James Lemass 149b.

JOHN R UNNING: 22crb, 23t.

KERRICK AMES PHOTOGRAPHY : 26–7; KOBAL

COLLECTION LONDON: Paramount Pictures 25b.

M ASTERFILE: G.D.Gifford 148c; MESA AIRLINES

162cb.

MUSEUM OF NEW MEXICO: Fray Orci Portrait o Don Juan Bautista de Anza 177 neg. no.

50828 39br(d).

NHPA: 16br; John Shaw 16clb; courtesy of

t e N ATIONAL P ARK SERVICE, CHACO CULTURE

N ATIONAL HISTORIC P ARK: 36cb, 37b, 112tl;

EW EXICO TOURISM: 30tc.

P AUL FRANKLIN: 13c, 49cr, 50br, 55tr, 59b, 11all, 117t, 117b, 143t; PETER NEWARK PICTURES

Documents

Arizona & the Grand Canyon (Eyewitness Travel Guides) by DK Publishing and Paul Franklin (DK, 2010)BBS