51124907 Wines of Croatia Regions Amp Grapes

8/3/2019 51124907 Wines of Croatia Regions Amp Grapes

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Discovering the Wines of Croatia

WINE GROWING REGIONS OF CROATIA

Croatia is a country in central Europe that borders the Adriatic Sea to the west, Slovenia tonorth, Hungary to the northeast, Serbia and Montenegro to the east, with Bosnia-

Herzegovina partially situated between the northern and southern branches of Croatias

somewhat angular-shaped territory.

Croatia has a population of nearly 4.5 million inhabitants, and a total geographical area of

56,542 sq km (21,831 sq miles or 5,654,200 hectares). Of that area, registered and

unregistered vineyards comprise roughly 35,000 hectares or less than 1% of the territory

of the entire country, 1.5% of all the farmable land in Croatia, and .38% of the worlds total

vineyard area. Registered vineyards (vineyards that commercially produce wine) total16,500 hectares.

There are two main wine-growing regions in Croatia: Continental Croatia and Coastal

Croatia.


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CONTINENTAL CROATIA

Continental Croatia encompasses a diverse range of territory stretching north-west to

south-east along the Drava River to the north, the river Sava to the south, and theDanube to the east. Its neighbors include Hungary to the north, Bosnia-Herzegovina to

the south, Serbia to the east, and Slovenia to the west/northwest. The region is alsohome to Croatias capital city, Zagreb.

Continental Croatia is best known for two of its sub-regions: Slavonia, an area of rolling

farmland that is considered the breadbasket of Croatia; and ZagorjeMeimurje, ahistorical and picturesque pastoral area north of Zagreb, and one of the oldest wine-

producing regions in the country.

Continental Croatia is comprised ofseven wine-growing sub-regions. Within the 7 sub-

regions of Continental Croatia are 35 viticultural areas called "wine-growing hills"

(vinogorje). These wine-growing hills consist of mostly small clusters of vineyard areas.

Geography

The geography of the continental region features rolling hills and small mountains that dip

down to fertile, lush valleys of farmland, fields and forests, with the vineyards typically

situated in the foothills and on the upper slopes. Other than a few large plantations in

Slavonia and ZagorjeMeimurje, the wine-growing hills are comprised of a patchwork ofsmall, family-owned vineyard parcels.

The soil in the region is primarily alluvial, with a diverse mixture of clays, other organic

matter and schist. Poorer soil areas on the upper slopes of the hills, such as in the Kutjevoand Pleivica wine-growing hills, are where some of the top vineyards in the region are

located.

Climate

The overall climate in the region is continental, with cold winters and hot, often humid

summers. Generally speaking, the climate in the eastern portions of the continental region

(Slavonia and Podunavlje) is warmer and more humid, which results in earlier ripening of

grapes and riper styles of wine than is some of the western and northern areas.


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Wines

Continental Croatia is white wine country, with 90% of plantings comprised of white or

blush-colored grapes. The most widely-planted grape is Graevina (Welschriesling), whichyields a wildly popular, food-friendly wine that is produced in a number of different styles,from dry, high acid food-friendly wines all the way to sweet and aromatic dessert wines.

Other Domesticated and International White Varieties that are planted in the region to

various degrees of success include Chardonnay, Gewrztraminer, Kerner, Mller-Thurgau

(aka: Rizvanac), Muscat de Frontignan, Muscat Ottonel, Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris, Riesling,

Roter Traminer, Sauvignon Blanc, and Sylvaner.

The region is home to a number of interesting indigenous cultivars all of which are white

varieties: Diea Ranina, Moslavac, Plavecuti(no relation to Plavac Malifrom the Coastalregion), and krlet.

While red wines are produced in the region, they make up a small percentage (10%) of the

total production. There are no red grapes indigenous to the region. However, the regiondoes produce some very interesting red wines from a number of Domesticated and

International Red Varieties, including Blaufrankisch, Gamay, Kadarka, Pinot Noir,

Portugieser, and Zweigelt. Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlotare alsosporadically found in the region, although wines from these grapes are not always

successful, as the region is often too cool and wet for successful ripening (although Vladimir

Krauthaker has achieved some recent success with Merlotin the Kutjevo area of Slavonia,

and Cabernet Sauvignon has recently shown some impressive potential in the Podunavlje

sub-region).

Continental Croatia also supplies the winemaking world with Slavonian oak for barrels.

Vineyards of the Kutjevo Wine-Growing Hills, Slavonia, Croatia (photo by Cliff Rames)


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COASTAL CROATIA

Coastal Croatia is so named because the country lies on the Adriatic Sea, which forms its

southern, southwest and western borders. Italy lies to the northwest, Slovenia to the

north, Bosnia-Herzegovina to the northeast, and Montenegro borders its southern-mosttip.

Coastal Croatia is comprised offive wine-growing sub-regions. Within the 5 sub-regions of

Coastal Croatia are 31 viticultural areas called "wine-growing hills" (vinogorje). These wine-

growing hills consist of mostly small clusters of vineyard areas, usually along the south-

south-west facing slopes of the coast.

Geography

Visitors to Coastal Croatia will often find themselves forever enamored and profoundly

impressed by two distinguishing physical features of the coastal region: the vivid blue

color of the Adriatic Sea, and the 1,100+ islands (of which only 66 are occupied!) that lie

like discarded oyster shells all along the coastline. Most importantly, many of Croatias

greatest vineyards are found on the precipitous slopes of the sun-baked, wild herb-

scented, limestone karst and scrub-speckled islands and peninsulas of the coastal region.

The soil is poor, mixed with limestone rocks and marine-life shells, and is sometimes

brownish-red to terra rosa in color from iron-oxidation.

The Peljesac Peninsula

The narrow Peljesac, perhaps 5 miles (8km) wide and 40 miles (72km) long, juts off theDalmatian coast just north of Dubrovnik. On the mountainous south-facing coast are the

wine regions of Dingac and Postup, made up of just 168 acres of vineyards laid out interraces on the 20-34 slopes leading down to the Adriatic. The Peljesac is known for having

the highest annual average temperatures in Croatia, and this, with the Mediterranean

climate - long, hot and dry summers, with mild, short and windy winters - produces wines

rich in extract and alcohol. The climatic conditions and the pristine ecology of the coastline


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make spraying the vines unnecessary. The soil is rocky and well drained, and the lack of

water on the hillsides will often cause the grapes to raisin slightly on the vine. The

landscape is dotted with fig and olive trees, scrub, and wild herbs whose aromas float on

the air.

Climate

The overall climate in the region is Mediterranean, with mild, rainy winters and very hot anddry summers.

WinesIstria and the Northern Coast is where crisp and aromatic white wines are made. Istrian

Malvasia deserves special attention as it is possibly the best dry Malvasia you will find

anywhere. Istrian Peninsula provides the ideal terroir for Malvasia grape and Yellow Muskat(Muscat Blanc a Petit Grains). The main local red is Teran (related to Italian Refosko), the

wild and acidic variety, which shows best when blended with Merlot or Cabernet.

Southern Dalmatia is centered around the Peljesac Peninsula and its protected appellation

called Dingac, just an hour drive north of the City of Dubrovnik. Plavac Mali grape is kinghere. Plavac Mali also thrives on the neighboring Island of Hvar, and Makarska Riviera (near

Split) is becoming famous for producing Croatian Zinfandel (locally known as CrljenakKastelanski). The best white wine of Southern Dalmatia is made from Posip a local grapevariety producing full body, sunny and mouthwatering wine to accompany the just-caught

seafood of the Adriatic. Island of Korcula, the birth place of Marko Polo, is known for

producing the best Posip wines.

Vineyards leading down to the sea, Dingac, Peljesac, Croatia (photo by Cliff Rames)


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The Croatian Wine-Making Tradition

2200 BC Illyric tribes started making wine in Dalmatia.390 BC The winegrowing tradition is developed during Greek colonization.

339 BC Dalmatia becomes part of the Roman Empire and wine becomespart of the Dalmatian lifestyle.

4th century AD Recognition of Christianity. The Church develops itsexpertise in winemaking.

1400 The first laws on wine production and quality control are written in

Dubrovnik Republic.

1797 Before the fall of the Venetian Republic, production of wine in

Dalmatia reaches 21 million gallons per year.1870 Phylloxera destroys vineyards in France and Italy. Both countries

begin to import Dalmatian wines.

18751900 Croatia produces 26 million gallons of wine per year.

1920 1940 Wine production reduced to 18 million gallons per year afterAustro-Hungarian Empire begins importing Italian wine.

1945 Beginning of Communist regime; collectivization of land destroysthe wine industry.

1991 Croatia becomes independent; new market economy stimulatestremendous growth of private sector and quality over quantity in

winemaking.

1997 Croatian wine makers produce 620 different kinds of wine from 54

grape varieties.

2008 According to the Croatian Institute of Viticulture and Enology, there

are approximately 17,000 registered producers of wine in Croatia. Of thisnumber, approximately 760 producers produce wines with Protected

Geographic Origin status, representing about 2,380 different labels.

2009 Wines of Croatia is founded.


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PRIMARY WINE-MAKING GRAPES OF CROATIA

The BIG THREE (main varieties by hectares in production):

1. Graevina2. Malvasija Istarska (Malvasia Istriana)3. Plavac Mali

Red Grapes

Babi (Bah-bitch)

Native to central Dalmatia in the Coastal Croatia region, Babi isbelieved to be related to Dobrii. Like other red grapes in the region,it does best in poor stony soils, warm and dry climatic conditions, and

on sloping landscapes near the Adriatic Sea. Most Vrhunsko (top

quality) wines are produced from grapes grown near Primoten, most

notably on the ancient terraced slopes of the Bucavac vineyard, which isa UNESCO World Heritage List site under the Protected Cultural

Landscapes category.

Babi produces a wine of earthy dark fruit character, often with spicynotes and a touch of garrique. These wines are a deep dark ruby

color often opaque with a touch of garnet at the rim. The noseoften delivers aromas of black berries and plum, black olives and figs, tobacco smoke and

roasted herbs, with a touch of limestone minerality.

Crljenak Katelanski (Tzerl-yen-ak Kash-tel-lanski)

Crljenak Ktelanski is an old, almost forgotten Croatian grape variety that recently captured

the imagination of the wine-making public when DNA-profiling revealed that is geneticallyidentical to Californian Zinfandel and Italian Primitivo. Crljenak Katelanski is native to theKatela fields just north of the coastal city of Split. Almost extinct in Croatia a few yearsago, this grape varietal has since been resurrected and replanted by one of Croatias top

winemakers, Zlatan Plenkovi. At some point, most likely between 500-700 years ago,Crljenak cross-bred with another old Dalmatian variety called Dobrii to give birth to PlavacMali, the most popular red grape variety in Croatia today.

Plavac Mali (Plah-vatz Mal-lee)

Plavac Mali is an indigenous red variety from Central and South

Dalmatia in Coastal Croatia. Plavac Mali is a cross between two otherindigenous Croatian varieties: Crljenak Katelanski (Zinfandel) andDobrii. Plavac can adapt well to hot Mediterranean climate and poorsoil with rocks. Furthermore Plavac from the southern Karst slopes,

exposed to the strong sun, give full bodied, strong and healthy wines

of great quality and aging potential, while grapes from the more fertile

grounds produce a wine with a bit diluted flavor. The grape is mainly

grown as a bush vine (un-trellised) that during the hot summer months serves as protection

from the sun and heat and to resist the strong winds in the winter.


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Main characteristics of the variety are high sugars, which lead to higher alcohol levels

(almost never below 13%), low acids, high extract and solid tannins. The aromas tend to

be reminiscent of dark cherry, plum jam and blackberries.

Plavac Mali is the only Croatian variety which, when it is produced from grapes that grow in

the best appellations, does not have the name of the grape on the bottle but the area where

it comes from. The best appellations are Dinga, Postup (Peljeac) and Ivan Dolac (Hvar).

Teran

Teran is a red grape native to the West Istrian wine region of

Croatia. It is widely considered to be related to but different than

Refosco of Italy (Refok in Croatia). It produces a rich, slightlysour, full-bodied red wine with a high lactic acid and iron content.Teran acquires a particularly distinctive flavor and bouquet when

grown in terra rossa ("Red Earth") soils found in the Western

Istria wine-growing hills of Croatia. The vine produces big loosebunches whose yield needs to be curbed in order to be of any use

for quality wines.

White Grapes

Bogdanua (Bohg-DAN-usha)

Bogdanua is a native white grape variety that is primarily cultivatedaround the towns of Stari Grad and Jelsa on the island of Hvar in the

South Dalmatia region, although it can also be found on Bra and inother coastal regions. Its name means gift from God probably dueto its ability to produce much fruit.

Bogdanua is often produced in a crisp, clean style using stainlesssteel fermentation. It is never aged in oak casks but some versions

need about a year in bottle to settle down. While a few single varietalversions are available (see below), it is mainly utilized as a blending

partner along with Trbljana, Maratina and Pr in easy drinking localwhite wines. More noteaby, Bogdanua is an important component of

the famous Proek dessert wines of Dalmatia.

Debit

Debit is a native white grape variety that is primarily

cultivated in the Sjeverna Dalmacija and DalmatinskaZagora sub-regions. It makes a soft, citrusy wine with an

often distinct saline note. Commonly used for everyday

table-wines, one producer, Alen Bibich, has resurrected the

grape in recent years and now produces a highly respectedsingle-vineyard, barrel-aged version called Luica.


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Graevina (GRASH-e-veena)

Graevina (aka Welschriesling, Riesling Italico, Laki Riesling, OlaszRiesling) is the grape variety from Danube basin of central Europe.Despite its name, it bears no relationship to Riesling proper of Germany.

While its exact origin is still not known, most experts agree that it is nativeto the region that was once the Austro-Hungarian empire. In Croatia, it

thrives in the Continental region, and grows particularly well in the Kutjevo

wine-growing hills of Slavonia. It is extremely popularity due its relatively

high yields and adaptability to different soils and continental climate

conditions, as well as its easy-drinking, extremely versatile and food-

friendly character.

Malvasija Istarska (Malvasia Istriana)

Malvazija Istarska was believed to be for a long number of years a partof the Malvasia family (Malvasia, Malmsey) from the Mediterranean

area. However the two varietals, except for the name, dont share

many similarities. Whereas most Mediterranean Malvasia producesweet wine, Malvazija Istarska is best when produced as a dry white

wine. Ampelografic differences are also substantial. In most Malvasias

the bunch is square and extended and leaves have a different shape.

Only recently a DNA analysis has proven the theory that the Malvasia

Istriana is an indigenous Istrian varietal that does not share common

origins with the other Malvasias.

Malvasia is very fruitful variety with mid to higher yields therefore much work in the

vineyard is required to regulate the crop. It is also quite resistant to fungal diseases such asbotrytis and oidium. Malvasia Istriana is grown all around Istria, parts of the Slovenian

coastal region and also in a Friuli region of Italy. The total cultivation area is large, withdifferent microclimate conditions, therefore the wines differ in style.

Maratine(Mar-AHSH-tina)Maratina (aka Rukatac or Kvarner). Is the most cultivated white variety in South Dalmatiaand the islands. Maratina delivers a simple, light and seafood friendly wine, with peachycitrus and saline notes. Often utilized as a blending grape, it is increasingly showing up as a

single varietal wine.

Poip (Poe-SHEEP)

Poip is an autochthonous white wine grape that is primarily grown in theDalmatian region on the island of Korula, Croatia. The primary growingregions are in ara and Smokvica, which are two villages on the island.

Poip is light, around 12-13% in alcohol and usually drunk at 14C. It is anatural companion for fish dishes as well as prosciutto and the light-bodied

cheeses that Croatia produces


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Vugava (Voo-GA-va)

(aka Bugava). A white grape variety (thought to be related to Viognier) grown exclusively

on the island of Vis in South Dalmatia of Coastal Croatia. Viticulture and winemaking on Visisland dates back to times before Christ, to the period of the old Greek colony, Issa. In the

third century, the Greek scholar, Athena, wrote: The wine from Issa, an island in theAdriatic sea, when compared to other wines, is much better.

Vugava delivers wines of high extract, with around 14% alcohol, low acidity, and aromas

and flavors of fresh apricot, fig, honey, and vanilla & spice (from oak aging). Sun-dried

Vugava grapes are also sometimes used in the production of Proek, a traditional sweetdessert wine of Dalmatia.

lahtina (Zhlah-tee-na)

Croatian native grape of the day: lahtina, a white grape native toKrk, an island in northern Dalmatia, & specifically "Vrbniko polje".

The name lahtina comes from a Slavic adjective that means "noble".lahtina is usually a light bodied wine, bright greenish-yellow in color,with a crisp, citrus and slightly saline character. A well made lahtinawill explode with acidity and show flavors of lemon and seaside

minerals. On the palate the texture is crisp yet viscous and delivers a

long, refreshing finish.


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Discovering the Wines of Croatia

TASTING SHEET

Whites

Kozlovic Malvasia 2008

Region: Western Istria Wine-Growing Hills, Istria, Coastal Croatia

Gianfranco Kozlovic is the largest private producer of Malvasia Istriana in Istria, and a vocal

crusader for quality. His vineyards dot the hillsides of northern Istria, a peninsula on the north

Croatian coastline, close to where the country connects with Italy.

Plenkovic Zlatan Hvar 20___

Region: Hvar Wine-Growing Hills, Southern Dalmatia, Coastal CroatiaHvar is an island in the Adriatic Sea on Croatias Dalmatian coast. The vineyards of Zlatan

Plenkovic are situated on the south side of the island, where the precipitous slopes of 40 to 60

are accessed by Jeep on narrow, sandy lanes. Native grapes thrive in the rocky soil here. This

wine is a blend of two native white grapes varieties: Posip and Marastina


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Enjingi Grasevina (a.k.a. Welschriesling) 20____

Region: Kutjevo Wine-Growing Hills, Slavonia, Continental CroatiaIn the slim eastern stretch of Croatia, between Hungary and Bosnia-Herzegovina, is the region of

Slavonia and the Valis Aurea, the Golden Valley. It is here, in Croatias breadbasket, that Ivan

Enjingi creates his masterful, expressive, award-winning wines. His vineyards include some ofthe best in the Golden Valley around Kutjevo, where white wine is predominant, including

Welschriesling and a wide variety of local and international grapes.

Enjingi Grasevina Late Harvest (a.k.a. Welschriesling) 20____Region: Kutjevo Wine-Growing Hills, Slavonia, Continental Croatia

Enjingi Venje 2003

A barrel-nurtured blend of Riesling, Gewrztraminer, Pinot Gris, Welschriesling and Sauvignon

Blanc.

Region: Kutjevo Wine-Growing Hills, Slavonia, Continental Croatia


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Reds

Enjingi Zweigelt Late Harvest 2006

Region: Kutjevo Wine-Growing Hills, Slavonia, Continental Croatia

A red variety created in 1922 by crossing St. Laurent and Frankovka, Zweigelt is a vigorous vine

and yield control is crucial to produce high-quality wine. Enjingi Zweigelt is ruby-red, with a

beautiful palate of currants, aromatic herbs and bayleaf.

Lirica Plavac Mali 2007

Region: Peljesac Wine-Growing Hills, Southern Dalmatia, Coastal Croatia

Produced and bottled by PZ Putnikovici, this wine is made from grapes grown on Peljesac, north

of Dubrovnik and just south of the controlled appellation of Dingac.

Zlatan Crljenak 2007

Region: Split- Omis-Makarska Wine-Growing Hills, Southern Dalmatia, Coastal Croatia

Crljenak Kastelanski is the grape that is now known to be the original Zinfandel, which through

DNA-profiling has been proven to originate in Croatia. Grapes for this wine were grown in

vineyards in Makarska along Croatias southern Riviera coast.


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Zlatan Plavac Barrique 20_____

Region: Peljesac Wine-Growing Hills, Southern Dalmatia, Coastal Croatia

Made from Plavac Mali, an offspring of Crljenak Kastelanski, aged for 18 months in oak barrels(half in new barrels, half in old). Organically-grown grapes.

Bura Dingac 2006

Region: Peljesac Wine-Growing Hills, Southern Dalmatia, Coastal CroatiaThe Bura family has been making wine on the Peljesac for five generations. Here, Niko Buracontinues to raise Plavac Mali by hand in the vineyards of Dingac and Postup, and vinify the

grapes at his cellars just over the mountains, reached by a famous one-lane tunnel that connects

the precipitous grape-growing slopes with the inland valley. Bura Plavac Mali is produced in

limited amounts from slightly raisined grapes vinified with natural yeasts and matured in French

barrels for 12 months, then bottled unfiltered.

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51124907 Wines of Croatia Regions Amp Grapes