44
140 A GUIDE TO SOUTHEASTERN ANATOLIA The Hittite sculpture workshop at Yesemek ganteping 11/15/07 8:24 PM Page 140

140 A GUIDE TO SOUTHEASTERN ANATOLIA ... A GUIDE TO SOUTHEASTERN ANATOLIA An Ancient Center of Trade As a historic and geographic crossroad, Gaziantep has always been an important

Embed Size (px)

Citation preview

Page 1: 140 A GUIDE TO SOUTHEASTERN ANATOLIA ... A GUIDE TO SOUTHEASTERN ANATOLIA An Ancient Center of Trade As a historic and geographic crossroad, Gaziantep has always been an important

140 A G U I D E T O S O U T H E A S T E R N A N A T O L I A

The Hittite sculpture workshop at Yesemek

ganteping 11/15/07 8:24 PM Page 140

Page 2: 140 A GUIDE TO SOUTHEASTERN ANATOLIA ... A GUIDE TO SOUTHEASTERN ANATOLIA An Ancient Center of Trade As a historic and geographic crossroad, Gaziantep has always been an important

141G A Z I A N T E P

Gaziantep

ganteping 11/15/07 8:24 PM Page 141

Page 3: 140 A GUIDE TO SOUTHEASTERN ANATOLIA ... A GUIDE TO SOUTHEASTERN ANATOLIA An Ancient Center of Trade As a historic and geographic crossroad, Gaziantep has always been an important

One of the oldest settlements in Anatolia, the province of Gaziantep is located at the junction ofthe Mediterranean and Southeastern Anatolian regions of Turkey. Standing at the crossroads ofmajor north-south and east-west routes, Gaziantep has been an important destination andsettlement for thousands of years. The northern and western stretches of the province aremountainous, while the border region consists of flat lowland plains. Gaziantep is covered in anetwork of rivers and streams, the most important of which is the Euphrates. The earliestsettlement in Gaziantep is Doliche; flint tools found at the site date back to 40,000 BC.Gaziantep was annexed by the Ottomans in 1516, and was known as Ayıntap until thedeclaration of the Turkish Republic. The Grand National Assembly of Turkey awarded the citythe honorific title ‘Gazi’, meaning ‘veteran’ in recognition of its resistance against the Frenchoccupying forces following World War I. The city was thereafter known as ‘Gaziayıntap’ untilits name was officially changed to Gaziantep in 1928. Gaziantep has experienced tremendousindustrial and commercial progress in recent years, and is now the most modern and developedcity in Southeastern Anatolia.

142 A G U I D E T O S O U T H E A S T E R N A N A T O L I A

Gaziantep at a Glance

Center of tradeand industry As a regional crossroads,Gaziantep is a vibrant center oftrade and industry, and is a majormanufacturer of Turkish exports.Indeed, Gaziantep is Turkey’s thirdlargest exporter of textiles andfoodstuffs. The city boasts threeorganized industrial zonescovering an area of 12 squarekilometers. 4% of Turkey’s majorindustrial companies are located inGaziantep, and 6% of its smallscaleindustries.

ModernGaziantepGaziantep is a modern city witha swiftly growing population. Ithas a wide transportationnetwork, including aninternational airport, railwaysand links to major motorways. Inaddition to many institutes ofeducation, Gaziantep also boastsa university and 11 hospitals.The largest park in the city is the100. Yıl Atatürk Kültür Parkıthat stretches 5 km along theAlleben River.

ZeugmaLocated on the banks of the Euphrates at the shallowest point of theriver, the ancient city of Zeugma flourished during the Roman Empire.Covering 6600 acres within the borders of the modern village of Belkısin the district of Nizip, the city was named Zeugma, meaning bridge orpassage, by the Romans. In 1990, a series of mosaics depicting avariety of mythical figures were discovered at the site. Historic artifactsand mosaics removed from Zeugma are on display at the GaziantepMuseum.

ganteping 11/15/07 8:25 PM Page 142

Page 4: 140 A GUIDE TO SOUTHEASTERN ANATOLIA ... A GUIDE TO SOUTHEASTERN ANATOLIA An Ancient Center of Trade As a historic and geographic crossroad, Gaziantep has always been an important

143G A Z I A N T E P A T A G L A N C E

Provincial Population: 1,285,249 according to the 2000 census

City Center Population: 853,513Altitude: 850 meters above sea level

Area: 6222 square kilometers Districts and Villages: 9 districts, 494 villages

Neighboring Provinces: fianl›urfa to the east; Ad›yaman to the northeast;

Kahramanmarafl to the northwest; Osmaniye to the west; Hatay to the southwest;

Kilis and Syria to the south

ID CARD

GeographyThe city has very few mountainous areas. The Amanos (Nur) Mountainson the Gaziantep-Osmaniye border stand between the İslahiye Plainand the Gulf of İskenderun. The mountain ranges in the province arebranches of the Southeastern Taurus Mountains. Gaziantep issurrounded by the Barak, Araban, İslahiye, Yavuzeli and Oğuzelilowland plains. The region experiences both Mediterranean andcontinental climates, with hot, dry summers and cold, wet winters.Most of the rainfall in the city occurs in the winter and spring.

Antep pistachiosGaziantep offers the idealconditions for the cultivation ofpistachios. The pistachio treeproduces bunches of pink fruit,and its seeds are both deliciousand highly nutritious.

InnsGaziantep once boasted a largenumber of inns and coveredbazaars, some of which surviveto this day.

Kumruoğlu Inn

ganteping 11/15/07 8:25 PM Page 143

Page 5: 140 A GUIDE TO SOUTHEASTERN ANATOLIA ... A GUIDE TO SOUTHEASTERN ANATOLIA An Ancient Center of Trade As a historic and geographic crossroad, Gaziantep has always been an important

144 A G U I D E T O S O U T H E A S T E R N A N A T O L I A

ganteping 11/15/07 8:25 PM Page 144

Page 6: 140 A GUIDE TO SOUTHEASTERN ANATOLIA ... A GUIDE TO SOUTHEASTERN ANATOLIA An Ancient Center of Trade As a historic and geographic crossroad, Gaziantep has always been an important

145G A Z I A N T E P A T A G L A N C E

Gaziantep Fortress

ganteping 11/15/07 8:25 PM Page 145

Page 7: 140 A GUIDE TO SOUTHEASTERN ANATOLIA ... A GUIDE TO SOUTHEASTERN ANATOLIA An Ancient Center of Trade As a historic and geographic crossroad, Gaziantep has always been an important

146 A G U I D E T O S O U T H E A S T E R N A N A T O L I A

An Ancient Center of TradeAs a historic and geographic crossroad, Gaziantep hasalways been an important center of trade. In addition to itshistoric inns, bazaars and arcades, Gaziantep boasts manymodern shopping centers that have stimulated itseconomy. Gaziantep plays an important logistical role intrade relations between Turkey and its Middle Easternneighbors.

Inns and BazaarsGaziantep’s inns are divided into two categories: travel lodges (menzil)and city inns. Menzil were built on roadsides while city inns served apurely commercial function.‘Bedesten’ are long, narrow covered bazaars that were the hub ofGaziantep’s commercial life. Three of the city’s five bedestens – theZincirli Bedesten, Hüseyin Pasha Bedesten and Kemikli Bedesten –remain in use to this day.

The growth oftradeThe military securityachieved first under theDulkadiroğulları and laterduring Ottoman rule led tothe establishment of newtrade routes, while thegrowing population meantan increase in demand for awide range of goods. In the17th century, the famousTurkish traveler EvliyaÇelebi wrote that the cityhad 3900 shops, twobedesten, and a number ofbazaars.

Kemikli BedestenAnadolu Inn

Tuz Inn Coppersmiths’ Market

ganteping 11/15/07 8:25 PM Page 146

Page 8: 140 A GUIDE TO SOUTHEASTERN ANATOLIA ... A GUIDE TO SOUTHEASTERN ANATOLIA An Ancient Center of Trade As a historic and geographic crossroad, Gaziantep has always been an important

147G A Z I A N T E P A T A G L A N C E

Second Silk RoadGaziantep is located on the Second Silk Road that

began in Antakya, passed through Gaziantep, and thenwent on to China via Iran and the Pamir Plateau inAfghanistan.

SoapWhile the town ofNizip is traditionallyassociated with soapproduction,technologicaldevelopments led thesoap trade to move toGaziantep. The cityboasts a large numberof soap makers thatmanufacture a varietyof brands of green,pure olive oil soap.

ShoppingTraditional Gaziantep handcraftsinclude copper, mother-of-pearl inlay,gold and silver jewelry, handmade shoesand embroidery. Gaziantep cuisine isfamous for its baklava, Anteppistachios, fruit paste and fruit leather,red pepper and other spices. Goodshopping areas include the MütercimAs›m, Gaziler, Suburcu, Karagöz, GaziMuhtarpafla and fi›hcan avenues, aswell as the Belediye, Büyük, Söylemez,Halep, Suriye and Kurtulufl traditionalshopping arcades and the city’s modernshopping centers.

ganteping 11/15/07 8:25 PM Page 147

Page 9: 140 A GUIDE TO SOUTHEASTERN ANATOLIA ... A GUIDE TO SOUTHEASTERN ANATOLIA An Ancient Center of Trade As a historic and geographic crossroad, Gaziantep has always been an important

148 A G U I D E T O S O U T H E A S T E R N A N A T O L I A

Antep PistachiosPistachios are a delicious and highly nutritious treat. Thepistachio tree produces bunches of pink fruit. Pistachios areused in a wide range of dishes: they can be eaten alone as anenjoyable snack or used as an ingredient in savory or sweetdishes. Pistachio trees need long, hot, dry summers andcomparatively cold winters to grow, and thrive in Gaziantep’sideal climate. Pistachio trees bear fruit biannually, withheavier harvests in alternate years, and can measure up to sixmeters tall.

Unripe‘boz’pistachioson the treeThe unripe pistachioshave light yellowshells while ripepistachios have pinkshells.

CultivationAntep pistachio seedlings aregrafted when they are 7 or 8years old, and begin to bear fruitwhen around 10-12 years old.Pistachio trees are long-lived,averaging around 150 years.Hardy plants, they can evensurvive in poor, infertile soil.They are easy to prune and need

minimal care; after the initialpruning, only the dead branchesneed to be removed. The treesbear fruit in April, which areharvested in August-September.The seeds grow in bunchesknown locally as ‘cumba’ or‘comma’ and are shaken off thetrees. The stalk is then broken offat the node where it is attachedto the branch.

‘Boz’Pistachios Unripe pistachiosare known locallyas ‘boz’ or ‘grey’pistachios after thelight yellow colorof their outershells. The seed isnot fully grown,and has adistinctive flavorand aroma.Gaziantep baklavaderives its uniqueflavor from the factthat it is madefrom ‘boz’pistachios.

ganteping 11/15/07 8:26 PM Page 148

Page 10: 140 A GUIDE TO SOUTHEASTERN ANATOLIA ... A GUIDE TO SOUTHEASTERN ANATOLIA An Ancient Center of Trade As a historic and geographic crossroad, Gaziantep has always been an important

149G A Z I A N T E P A T A G L A N C E

MenengiçWild pistachio trees are known locally as ‘menengiç’, and can be used as rootstock for Antep pistachiocultivation. Wild pistachio trees produce lentil-sized fruits that are roasted and then ground. The grounds arethen boiled in water and drunk like coffee. Menengiç coffee is said to be good for hemorrhoids, to help clearthe airways and to cure coughs.

Bud Flower Unripe fruit

ganteping 11/15/07 8:26 PM Page 149

Page 11: 140 A GUIDE TO SOUTHEASTERN ANATOLIA ... A GUIDE TO SOUTHEASTERN ANATOLIA An Ancient Center of Trade As a historic and geographic crossroad, Gaziantep has always been an important

150 A G U I D E T O S O U T H E A S T E R N A N A T O L I A

Antep HousesOld Gaziantep houses have a unique and distinctive layout andare traditionally built from soft calcareous rock known locallyas ‘havara’, ‘keymıh’ or ‘keymik’. Found in the olderneighborhoods of the city, the houses are usually one or twostories tall, although some three-story structures can be seen.The houses have thick walls with cellars carved into the rockfloor. These cellars have special sections for storing provisionssuch as molasses and olive oil. Passing through the large mainentrance, you enter the ‘hayat’, an area enclosing a largegarden as well as a number of rooms serving a variety offunctions. The windows of Gaziantep houses open not ontothe street but onto this inner courtyard. Above each window isa small aperture called a ‘kuş tağası’ that lets air and light intothe house. Traditional Gaziantep houses can still be found inthe city center and the neighborhoods of Eyüboğlu, Türktepe,Tepebaşı, Bostancı, Kozluca, Şehreküstü and Kale.

Ocakl›k Old Gaziantep houses feature bread ovens known as ‘ocaklık’. Theovens were located in the part of the courtyard that caught the firstrays of the sun. Every morning, the dough was prepared and placed inthe ‘ocaklık’ to bake, providing the household with fresh, daily bread.

CellarsCellars werecarved into therock foundationsof the house.These dark,undergroundareas were usedto store foodduring the hotsummer months.

ganteping 11/15/07 8:26 PM Page 150

Page 12: 140 A GUIDE TO SOUTHEASTERN ANATOLIA ... A GUIDE TO SOUTHEASTERN ANATOLIA An Ancient Center of Trade As a historic and geographic crossroad, Gaziantep has always been an important

151G A Z I A N T E P A T A G L A N C E

FountainWater fountains are

usually located inthe ‘sofa’ or hall

and featuredetailed stonework

and paintedornamentation. On

hot summer days,the household

would sit in the‘sofa’ and enjoy the

cool air from thecourtyard.

Hayat (courtyard)This largecourtyard openson to the street.The windows ofthe surroundingrooms look overon the courtyard.Trees and flowersare plantedaround theperimeter of thecourtyard. Somehouses have asmall pool in themiddle of the‘hayat’.

Bride’s roomThe bride’s room istraditionally located offthe main corridor.Bedspreads, a mattressand pillows broughtfrom the bride’s familyhouse would be placedin the room, as well asother items from hertrousseau.

� The Hasan SüzerEthnographic Museum

ganteping 11/15/07 8:26 PM Page 151

Page 13: 140 A GUIDE TO SOUTHEASTERN ANATOLIA ... A GUIDE TO SOUTHEASTERN ANATOLIA An Ancient Center of Trade As a historic and geographic crossroad, Gaziantep has always been an important

152 A G U I D E T O S O U T H E A S T E R N A N A T O L I A

Doliche

ganteping 11/15/07 8:26 PM Page 152

Page 14: 140 A GUIDE TO SOUTHEASTERN ANATOLIA ... A GUIDE TO SOUTHEASTERN ANATOLIA An Ancient Center of Trade As a historic and geographic crossroad, Gaziantep has always been an important

153T H E H I S T O R Y O F G A Z I A N T E P

Located at the meeting point of theMediterranean and Mesopotamia – thecradle of civilization – Gaziantep isone of the oldestsettlements in Anatolia.Settlements such asSakçagözü, Zincirli,Carchemish (Karkamış),Yesemek, Doliche (Dülük)and Zeugma (Belkıs)provide a window onto theregion’s prehistoric culturaland political background.The first kingdom to rulethe territory was theYamhad Kingdom centered at Aleppo.Following the death of Alexander theGreat, Gaziantep became part of theSeleucid Kingdom, together with therest of the region. The area was laterannexed by the Commagene, and thenruled for an extensive period by theRomans. Christianity spread to the

region under the Byzantines. When theIslamic armies conquered the areaduring the caliphate of Umar, the localpopulation converted to Islam. After

the Battle of Manzikert, aTurkish state tied to theSeljuks was established. Thecity was destroyed during theMongol invasions, and thensettled by the Dulkadiroğullarıand the Mamluks. Gaziantepcame under Ottoman rulefollowing the Battle of MarjDabiq. Production, trade andhandcrafts flourished duringthis period. After World War I,

the city was occupied by the Englishand the French, but resisted the foreignoccupiers for 11 months, and wasawarded the title of ‘gazi’, meaningveteran. Located on the Silk Road,Gaziantep’s most striking monumentsdate from the Hittite, Roman andOttoman periods.

The History of Gaziantep

ganteping 11/15/07 8:27 PM Page 153

Page 15: 140 A GUIDE TO SOUTHEASTERN ANATOLIA ... A GUIDE TO SOUTHEASTERN ANATOLIA An Ancient Center of Trade As a historic and geographic crossroad, Gaziantep has always been an important

154 A G U I D E T O S O U T H E A S T E R N A N A T O L I A

Prehistoric AgesWith its fertile soil, abundant natural resources and strategiclocation between the Mediterranean and Mesopotamia,Gaziantep has been an important location since prehistorictimes. Indeed, the area has seen continuous habitation sincethe Stone Age, and around 120 prehistoric archeologicalsettlements have been uncovered in the area. Tilbeflar Fortress

and TumulusThe village of Gündo¤an(Tilbeflar) in O¤uzeli The 7000-year-old tumuluswas home to an Assyrian cityknown as Apparazu, whichgrew beyond the borders ofthe tumulus during Romantimes, and was renamedAbalara. The city and itsfortress remained in useduring the Middle Ages.

Gedikli /KarahöyükThe village of Gedikli, 23-24km northeast of ‹slahiyeGedikli boasts the oldestcremation tombs in Anatolia,as well as an interestingburial ground dating from the22-21st century BC. Pieces ofpottery show that the regionwas in contact with NorthernSyria, Mesopotamia,Çukurova and WesternAnatolia during the Bronze Age.

Coba Tumulus /SakçagözüBetween the villages of Hasarand Kurtoba, 3 km fromSakçagözüThe Coba Tumulus is on theİslahiye lowland plain, astopover on the routes coveredby today’s nomadic clans.Even in 6000 BC, the landoffered ideal conditions forfarming and herding livestock.The tumulus offers a uniqueinsight into the region’scultural landscape 7000 yearsago. Coba gave its name to atype of bowl first discovered atthe tumulus. In addition, thesite boasts stone blocksdecorated with Hittite reliefs.

Tilbeşar Fortress

A bakedearthenwarecup, early3rdmillenniumBC

Gaziantep MuseumThe Gaziantep Museum boasts a rich collection of prehistoricobjects that serve as a window onto the region’s culturaldevelopment stretching back 7000 years.

ganteping 11/15/07 8:27 PM Page 154

Page 16: 140 A GUIDE TO SOUTHEASTERN ANATOLIA ... A GUIDE TO SOUTHEASTERN ANATOLIA An Ancient Center of Trade As a historic and geographic crossroad, Gaziantep has always been an important

155T H E H I S T O R Y O F G A Z I A N T E P

Tilmen Tumulus2 km west of the village of Yelliburun, 10 km east of ‹slahiye21 meters high and measuring 220 meters by 150 meters, this tumulusis thought to have served as the capital of the Yamhad Kingdom.Archeological excavations at the site have uncovered traces of a 7000-year-old civilization, including adobe and stone houses, round storagerooms, tombs and many pieces of painted pottery. The area was alsoinhabited in the Iron Age, the Roman-Byzantine period and the IslamicEra. The discovery of city walls, city gates, a palace, and the remainsof walls built from large stone blocks suggest that Tilmen was animportant center of Yamhad power.

Doliche (Dülük)The village ofDülük is averitable open-airmuseum bearingthe stamp of allthe major stages ofhuman history.

ganteping 11/15/07 8:27 PM Page 155

Page 17: 140 A GUIDE TO SOUTHEASTERN ANATOLIA ... A GUIDE TO SOUTHEASTERN ANATOLIA An Ancient Center of Trade As a historic and geographic crossroad, Gaziantep has always been an important

156 A G U I D E T O S O U T H E A S T E R N A N A T O L I A

The Late Hittite PeriodDue to its location at the centre of the network of routesconnecting the Mediterranean and Mesopotamia, theHittites had their eye on Gaziantep as early as the middle ofthe 2nd millennium BC, and fought for control of the areaagainst the Assyrians and Babylonians. The regionflourished under the Hittites, and was home to majorkingdoms in the Late Hittite Era. The most importantsettlements during this period were at the Zincirli Tumulus,at Yesemek - whose workshops produced sculptures for theentire kingdom - and at Carchemish, whose worship of themother goddess Kubaba spread to the rest of Anatolia andlater to the Greeks and Romans.

YesemekSculptureWorkshopNear the village of Yesemek, 23km southeast of ‹slahiyeYesemek was a sculptureworkshop that produced

sculptures and reliefs for all themajor Hittite cities andfortresses. The workshop beganproduction under ShuppiluliumaI, employed the local Hurrians,and was deserted after theAssyrian conquest. Blocks ofbasalt brought from the quarrieswere roughly carved into

sculptures. In order to avoiddamage during transportation,the fine detail work was not doneat Yesemek, but at the finaldestination. One such sculpturethat was begun in Yesemek andthen completed at its destinationwas uncovered at Zincirli.Visitors can see how the quarryoperated and which techniquesand materials were used tocreate the sculptures. The open-air museum boasts over 300rough sculptures at a variety ofstages of completion.

Other importantsettlements

Zincirli TumulusIn the Fevzipafla region ofIslahiyeThe Zincirli Tumulus was animportant settlement in the LateHittite Period. Written sourcesrefer to the city as Sam’al orYa’idi. The population of thekingdom consisted of acosmopolitan mix of Luwians,Sami, Hurrian and Phoenicians,while the upper classes were

Carchemish was the mostpowerful of all the Late HittiteKingdoms. Excavations haveuncovered an outer city, inner cityand fortress arranged in arectangular pattern. A number ofreligious structures and aprocessional way featuring blocksof stone embellished with reliefswere found in the eastern sectionof the ruins overlooking theEuphrates. These are now ondisplay at the Museum ofAnatolian Civilizations in Ankara.Sadly, the ruins of Carchemishare closed to the public, as theyare located in a military minefieldon the Syrian border.

Aramean. Excavations haverevealed city walls, gates and theruins of a multistory palace.Blocks decorated with reliefsfound here are on display at theMuseum of AnatolianCivilizations in Ankara.

CarchemishIn the centre of the district ofKarkam›fl, on the banks of theEuphrates on the Turkish-SyrianborderThe ancient city of Carchemishwas continuously settled for 8000years - from the Neolithic Age tothe Late Hittite Period.

ganteping 11/15/07 8:27 PM Page 156

Page 18: 140 A GUIDE TO SOUTHEASTERN ANATOLIA ... A GUIDE TO SOUTHEASTERN ANATOLIA An Ancient Center of Trade As a historic and geographic crossroad, Gaziantep has always been an important

157T H E H I S T O R Y O F G A Z I A N T E P

Statues of Lions Statues of roaring lions were thought to

protect the city and instill fear in thehearts of its enemies.

SphinxesSphinxes usually consist of a human headattached to a lion’s body, and representthe combination of intellectual andphysical power.

Mountain GodReliefsThe Hurri-Mitanni mountaingods were appropriated by theHittites. These examples fromYesemek are thought to representthe Amanos Mountains.

Reliefs of BattleScenesReliefs depicting a two-wheeledchariot pulled by two horses,and a fallen enemy soldier underthe horse’s hooves were popularin the Late Hittite Period andcan be found in manylocations. Teshup, the main Hittite god (left).

ganteping 11/15/07 8:28 PM Page 157

Page 19: 140 A GUIDE TO SOUTHEASTERN ANATOLIA ... A GUIDE TO SOUTHEASTERN ANATOLIA An Ancient Center of Trade As a historic and geographic crossroad, Gaziantep has always been an important

158 A G U I D E T O S O U T H E A S T E R N A N A T O L I A

The Roman PeriodThe Romans annexed the southeastern region of Anatolia in64 BC. The Euphrates served as a natural border during thisera, and legions were stationed here to protect the border fromattacks from the east, thereby increasing Gaziantep’s regionalsignificance. The entire area is covered with ruins dating fromthis period. Most of our knowledge of the era has beengleaned from excavations conducted at the ancient cities ofZeugma and Doliche (Dülük). In 395 AD, the area became apart of the Byzantine Empire. Sadly, few structures andmonuments dating from the Byzantine era have survived tothis day.

Belk›s / Zeugma 10 kilometers east of NizipThe city was established bySeleukos I Nikator in 300 BC.Latin culture dominated the city

under the Romans, who referredto it as Zeugma, meaning bridgeor crossing. Zeugma had greatstrategic importance as one ofthe main cities on theeasternmost edge of the RomanEmpire. As a result, the IVScythica Legion consisting of6000 soldiers were based at theborder outpost. The city quicklyprospered due to its location ontrade routes and thelegionnaires’ economic impact.Zeugma flourished in the 1st and2nd centuries as a result of theregion’s political and militarystability; its population isestimated to have reached100,000 in the 2nd century.However, this golden age cometo an abrupt end in 256 when theSassanids sacked the city.Buildings were burned anddemolished, and there waswidespread pillaging. Zeugmanever fully recovered from theattack. The last church recordsdate from 1048, after whichZeugma fell into a deep andabiding silence.

ganteping 11/15/07 8:28 PM Page 158

Page 20: 140 A GUIDE TO SOUTHEASTERN ANATOLIA ... A GUIDE TO SOUTHEASTERN ANATOLIA An Ancient Center of Trade As a historic and geographic crossroad, Gaziantep has always been an important

159T H E H I S T O R Y O F G A Z I A N T E P

The Villas of Zeugma �The hills overlooking the Euphrates are dottedwith villas that belonged to the wealthy andpowerful members of the city’s elite. The floors ofthese villas were decorated with colorful stonemosaics depicting mythological scenes, while thewalls are ornamented with equally colorfulfrescoes of human figures and plant motifs. To

keep cool in the hot summer months, the rooms ofthe villas opened onto a pillared inner courtyardwhich also captured rainwater that drained into acistern. Most of the villas were two stories tall, butsome had three stories if built on a slope. Thelower floors usually housed the kitchens andstorage rooms. The rooms were furnished in thetraditional Roman style and decorated with marbleor bronze statues.

ganteping 11/15/07 8:28 PM Page 159

Page 21: 140 A GUIDE TO SOUTHEASTERN ANATOLIA ... A GUIDE TO SOUTHEASTERN ANATOLIA An Ancient Center of Trade As a historic and geographic crossroad, Gaziantep has always been an important

160 A G U I D E T O S O U T H E A S T E R N A N A T O L I A

The Mosaics at ZeugmaThe mosaic floors and wall frescoes at Zeugma are the workof fine craftsmen, and provide valuable insights into Romanurban life in the 2nd and 3rd centuries. The mosaics weremade using river pebbles in every possible shade of aspectrum of ten colors – white, black, brown, green, blue,grey, red, yellow, orange and pink. Light and shadow weremimicked to create three-dimensional motifs. Colors thatcould not be found in nature were manufactured in glass.

Statue of Mars �Dating from the 2nd century AD,this bronze statue of Mars (Ares),the god of war, has survived inperfect condition to this day. Hisright arm is bent at the elbowand he holds a spear, while hisleft hand holds a curved branch.This is the only known statue ofMars to symbolize both war andfertility. The figure wears ahelmet, and his curly, thick hairis parted in the middle and flowsover his forehead, face and theback of his neck. Sporting abaleful expression, the statue’seyes are made of silver and gold.

The Gypsy �Girl (Maenad)The figure in the mosaic wasthought to resemble a gypsywhen first discovered, andbecame known as the GypsyGirl. Later theories stated thatthe figure was perhapsAlexander the Great or even

Gaia, goddess of the earth.However, the grapevines next toher head have led some tobelieve that she is a Maenad, orfemale member of the cult ofDionysos. Dating from the 2ndor 3rd century, this mosaic hasbecome the symbol of Zeugma.The figure’s eyes seem to followyou wherever you go.

Poseidon MosaicThis mosaic portrait ofPoseidon, god of the sea,decorated the bottom of a pool.Poseidon is depicted holding atriton in his right hand andriding a chariot pulled by a pair

of horses with the tails of fish.Busts of the river god Oceanusand his wife Tethys with tworiver monsters wrapped aroundtheir shoulders can be seenbelow the chariot. Thismagnificent mosaic also featuresa stunning border.

Dionysos-Telete-Skyrtos This 2nd-3rd century mosaicdepicts Dionysos, Telete andSkyrtos standing side by side.Their names are written in Greekabove their heads.

ganteping 11/15/07 8:29 PM Page 160

Page 22: 140 A GUIDE TO SOUTHEASTERN ANATOLIA ... A GUIDE TO SOUTHEASTERN ANATOLIA An Ancient Center of Trade As a historic and geographic crossroad, Gaziantep has always been an important

159T H E H I S T O R Y O F G A Z I A N T E P

The Villas of Zeugma �The hills overlooking the Euphrates are dottedwith villas that belonged to the wealthy andpowerful members of the city’s elite. The floors ofthese villas were decorated with colorful stonemosaics depicting mythological scenes, while thewalls are ornamented with equally colorfulfrescoes of human figures and plant motifs. To

keep cool in the hot summer months, the rooms ofthe villas opened onto a pillared inner courtyardwhich also captured rainwater that drained into acistern. Most of the villas were two stories tall, butsome had three stories if built on a slope. Thelower floors usually housed the kitchens andstorage rooms. The rooms were furnished in thetraditional Roman style and decorated with marbleor bronze statues.

ganteping 11/16/07 2:47 PM Page 159

Page 23: 140 A GUIDE TO SOUTHEASTERN ANATOLIA ... A GUIDE TO SOUTHEASTERN ANATOLIA An Ancient Center of Trade As a historic and geographic crossroad, Gaziantep has always been an important

160 A G U I D E T O S O U T H E A S T E R N A N A T O L I A

The Mosaics at ZeugmaThe mosaic floors and wall frescoes at Zeugma are the workof fine craftsmen, and provide valuable insights into Romanurban life in the 2nd and 3rd centuries. The mosaics weremade using river pebbles in every possible shade of aspectrum of ten colors – white, black, brown, green, blue,grey, red, yellow, orange and pink. Light and shadow weremimicked to create three-dimensional motifs. Colors thatcould not be found in nature were manufactured in glass.

Statue of Mars �Dating from the 2nd century AD,this bronze statue of Mars (Ares),the god of war, has survived inperfect condition to this day. Hisright arm is bent at the elbowand he holds a spear, while hisleft hand holds a curved branch.This is the only known statue ofMars to symbolize both war andfertility. The figure wears ahelmet, and his curly, thick hairis parted in the middle and flowsover his forehead, face and theback of his neck. Sporting abaleful expression, the statue’seyes are made of silver and gold.

The Gypsy �Girl (Maenad)The figure in the mosaic wasthought to resemble a gypsywhen first discovered, andbecame known as the GypsyGirl. Later theories stated thatthe figure was perhapsAlexander the Great or even

Gaia, goddess of the earth.However, the grapevines next toher head have led some tobelieve that she is a Maenad, orfemale member of the cult ofDionysos. Dating from the 2ndor 3rd century, this mosaic hasbecome the symbol of Zeugma.The figure’s eyes seem to followyou wherever you go.

Poseidon MosaicThis mosaic portrait ofPoseidon, god of the sea,decorated the bottom of a pool.Poseidon is depicted holding atriton in his right hand andriding a chariot pulled by a pair

of horses with the tails of fish.Busts of the river god Oceanusand his wife Tethys with tworiver monsters wrapped aroundtheir shoulders can be seenbelow the chariot. Thismagnificent mosaic also featuresa stunning border.

Dionysos-Telete-Skyrtos This 2nd-3rd century mosaicdepicts Dionysos, Telete andSkyrtos standing side by side.Their names are written in Greekabove their heads.

ganteping 11/16/07 2:47 PM Page 160

Page 24: 140 A GUIDE TO SOUTHEASTERN ANATOLIA ... A GUIDE TO SOUTHEASTERN ANATOLIA An Ancient Center of Trade As a historic and geographic crossroad, Gaziantep has always been an important

161T H E H I S T O R Y O F G A Z I A N T E P

The Making ofMosaicsFirst, the mosaic craftsmanselected a subject from acatalogue of mosaics. Themosaic pattern was then drawnonto a piece of cloth backing.The pieces of cut mosaic stone ortesserae were then stuck one byone onto the cloth. Next, a

grouting made of lime and eggwhite was poured over themosaic and allowed to set. Thefinished mosaic was then carriedon a wooden board to its finaldestination and placed upsidedown on a layer of wet mortar.When the mortar dried, the clothbacking was removed using hotwater, and the mosaic would becomplete.

Mosaic Training CenterIn conjunction withthe EuropeanCommission and theGAP Administration,the GaziantepChamber of Commercehas opened a MosaicTraining Center inGaziantep as a part ofthe ‘Enhancing theTourism Potential ofGaziantep, Halfeti,Rumkale and Zeugma’project. The aim ofthe center is tosupport the ancienttradition of mosaicmaking aroundZeugma. The centerwelcomes bothexperienced mosaicartists seeking furthertraining andnewcomers who wishto pursue it as ahobby.

Uncovering the ancient mosaics

ganteping 11/16/07 2:48 PM Page 161

Page 25: 140 A GUIDE TO SOUTHEASTERN ANATOLIA ... A GUIDE TO SOUTHEASTERN ANATOLIA An Ancient Center of Trade As a historic and geographic crossroad, Gaziantep has always been an important

162 A G U I D E T O S O U T H E A S T E R N A N A T O L I A

Byzantine rule over Gaziantep and its environs came to an endwith the Islamic conquest during caliphate of Umar. In 639,the local population converted to Islam. After the Battle ofManzikert in 1071, a Turkish state tied to the Seljuks wasestablished. The city was destroyed during the Mongolinvasions in 1270, and was later settled by theDulkadiroğulları and the Mamluks. The entire region cameunder Ottoman rule in 1516 after Selim I defeated theMamluks at the Battle of Marj Dabiq. Many mosques,madrasas, inn and baths were built while the city was underOttoman rule. Located at the crossroads of major trade routes,the city quickly grew and developed. Due to its strategiclocation near northern Syria, a number of Western nationsestablished consulates in Gaziantep and various foreignuniversities opened faculties in the city.

The Islamic and Ottoman Periods

Boyac› Mosque�At the junction of Hamdi KutlarCaddesi and Kutlar Sokak,fiahinbeyOne of the largest mosques inGaziantep, the Boyacı Mosque isthought to have been built byKadı Kemalettin in 1211. An

engraved inscription on theminbar states that it wascompleted under the Mamluks in1357. The mosque has arectangular plan with two navesparallel to the mihrab.Interestingly, the minbar is set onrails, and slides in and out of aspecial wall compartment.

The minbar is particularly worthnoting as it is one of the oldestwooden minbars in the city, andis ornamented with 12-pointedstars, rosettes and geometricmotifs. The interior of the mosqueis decorated with ceramic tiles,and the single-balcony stoneminaret has a polygonal trunk.

ganteping 11/16/07 2:48 PM Page 162

Page 26: 140 A GUIDE TO SOUTHEASTERN ANATOLIA ... A GUIDE TO SOUTHEASTERN ANATOLIA An Ancient Center of Trade As a historic and geographic crossroad, Gaziantep has always been an important

163T H E H I S T O R Y O F G A Z I A N T E P

fiirvani (fiirvaniMehmet Efendi)MosqueSeferpafla, west of the GaziantepFortressOfficially named Şirvani MehmetEfendi Mosque after its patron, themosque is also know as the ‘İkiŞerefeli’ or ‘Double Balconied’mosque after the two balconies onits minaret. Records indicate that itwas built before 1677, a factsupported by the materials used inits construction. Like that of theBoyacı Mosque, the minbar is seton rails and can be slid in and outof a special wall compartment.

KurtuluflMosqueTepebafl›,fiahinbeyThe mosque wasoriginally built in1892 as a churchand was convertedinto a mosque afteralso functioning asa prison. Thechurch’s bell towerwas converted intoa minaret, and asecond minaret wasadded to theopposite corner.One of the largestmosques inGaziantep, thebuilding is in goodcondition.

ganteping 11/16/07 2:48 PM Page 163

Page 27: 140 A GUIDE TO SOUTHEASTERN ANATOLIA ... A GUIDE TO SOUTHEASTERN ANATOLIA An Ancient Center of Trade As a historic and geographic crossroad, Gaziantep has always been an important

164 A G U I D E T O S O U T H E A S T E R N A N A T O L I A

During the Ottoman period, Antep was a district under thejurisdiction of Aleppo. After the Ottoman defeat at the end ofWorld War I, the city was occupied first by the English onJanuary 15, 1919 and then by the French on October 29. Thepeople of Antep resisted the occupation for 11 monthsbetween April 1, 1920 and February 8, 1921 under theMüdafaa-i Hukuk Cemiyeti (society for the defense ofnational rights). 6317 people died during the resistance. Thecity was evacuated on December 25, 1921 following thesigning of the Treaty of Ankara on October 20, 1921. OnFebruary 6, 1921, the Grand National Assembly of Turkeyawarded the city the honorific title of ‘Gazi’, meaning‘veteran’. The city was thereafter known as ‘Gaziayıntap’ untilits name was officially changed to Gaziantep in 1928. Atatürkextolled the heroism of the people of Gaziantep, saying ‘Everycity, town and smallest Turkish village that calls itself Turkishshould be inspired by the courage of the people of Gaziantep.’

Gaziantep and the Turkish War of Independence

Martyrs’ MemorialAtatürk Bulvar›A memorial to the 6317 martyrs to the resistance who died between1920 and 1921 was erected above the Çınarlı Mosque. The mosque wasreferred to as the Çınarlı (Arıburnu) Front during the War ofIndependence and was an important front in the defense of the city. OnDecember 25, 1935, the soldiers’ remains were brought here andinterred beneath the memorial.The cemetery section of the Martyr’s Memorial has been recentlyrestored. Images of the War of Independence have been hung on thewalls, and the cemetery has been opened to the public.

Cumhuriyet Square and the Atatürk Monument

Images of OldAntep

The Alleben River

Antep Fortress

A view of the city

ganteping 11/16/07 2:49 PM Page 164

Page 28: 140 A GUIDE TO SOUTHEASTERN ANATOLIA ... A GUIDE TO SOUTHEASTERN ANATOLIA An Ancient Center of Trade As a historic and geographic crossroad, Gaziantep has always been an important

165T H E H I S T O R Y O F G A Z I A N T E P

� fiahin Bey MonumentfiahinbeyThis monument in the town of Şahinbey consists of asquare column on a square platform. The inscriptionon the column reads, ‘Şahin Bey, the true hero of theGaziantep defense, was martyred on this spot. May hismartyred soul rest in peace March 20, 1920.’

fiahin Bey (1877-1920)Şahin Bey, a soldier from Gaziantep, fought on thefront lines during the Gaziantep resistance, and died inbattle. His real name was Mehmet Said, but the peopleof Gaziantep referred to him as Şahin Bey. MehmetSaid served as a private on the Yemen front, and waspromoted to the rank of sergeant major in recognitionof his bravery. He went on to fight in the Turco-ItalianWar, in the Balkans and at Çanakkale. He became alieutenant in 1917 on the Sinai front, and was capturedduring a violent skirmish. He remained a prisoner ofwar in an English camp in Egypt until the ceasefire in1919. Following the occupation of Gaziantep, hejoined the Kuvay-i Milliye corps, and died in battlewhile fighting on the Antep-Kilis line. Many folk songsand poems have been written about him, andŞahinbey’s local high school is named Şehit Şahin(Şahin the Martyr) after him.

Atatürk’svisit to

GaziantepAtatürk visited the city

on January 26-27,1933, officially

registered himself as acitizen of Gaziantep,

and expressed hisadmiration for the

Gaziantep resistance.

Gaziantepresisted theoccupationfor 11months.

ganteping 11/16/07 2:49 PM Page 165

Page 29: 140 A GUIDE TO SOUTHEASTERN ANATOLIA ... A GUIDE TO SOUTHEASTERN ANATOLIA An Ancient Center of Trade As a historic and geographic crossroad, Gaziantep has always been an important

166 A G U I D E T O S O U T H E A S T E R N A N A T O L I A

ganteping 11/16/07 2:49 PM Page 166

Page 30: 140 A GUIDE TO SOUTHEASTERN ANATOLIA ... A GUIDE TO SOUTHEASTERN ANATOLIA An Ancient Center of Trade As a historic and geographic crossroad, Gaziantep has always been an important

167S I G H T S E E I N G I N G A Z I A N T E P

MuseumsGaziantep Museum Hasan SüzerEthnographic Museum

Mosques (Camii)Ömeriye MosqueSheikh Fetullah (fi›h)MosqueNuri Mehmet PashaMosqueAhmet Çelebi MosqueTahtani (Tahtal›)MosqueTekke (TekkeMevlevihane) MosqueAlaüddevle (Ali Dola)MosqueAli Nacar MosqueEyüpo¤lu Mosquefi›h Ömer (Ömer Sheikh) Mosque

Churches (Kilise)Kendirli ChurchFevkani Church

Fortress (Kale)Araban Fortress

Inns (Han)Kürkçü InnEski Büyük Bu¤dayPazar› InnMecidiye (Nak›p) InnBelediye (fiire) InnEski Maarif (Yemifl) Inn

Covered Bazaars(Bedesten)Kemikli Covered Bazaars 1 and 2Zincirli Covered Bazaar (Meat andVegetable Market)

BridgeTabakhane Bridge

Turkish Baths(Hamam)Hüseyin Pasha Baths‹ki Kap›l› BathsTabak Bathsfi›h (Fetullah) Bathsfiehitler Baths

Fountains (Çeflme)Demirligane Fountain Nuri Bey FountainHüseyin Pasha (KöfleçAhmet) Fountain

Mausoleums (Türbe)The Mausoleum at HisarThe Mausoleum at Elif The Mausoleum atHasano¤lu

Parks, Walks andPicnic AreasTahmis CoffeehouseKavakl›k Kasr› OutdoorCoffeehouse Burç Forest Walks andPicnic AreaNature Reserve and Zoo

Doliche (Dülük)Dülük Cave and itsEnvironsThe Ancient City ofDolicheThe Mithraea of DolicheDoliche NecropolisDoliche Rock TombDoliche QuarriesDülükbaba Forest Walksand Picnic Area

1

2

3

4

5

6

7

8

9

10

11

12

13

14

15

16

17

18

19

20

21

22

23

24

25

26

27

28

29

30

31

32

33

34

35

36

37

38

1

2

3

4

5

6

7

ganteping 11/16/07 2:49 PM Page 167

Page 31: 140 A GUIDE TO SOUTHEASTERN ANATOLIA ... A GUIDE TO SOUTHEASTERN ANATOLIA An Ancient Center of Trade As a historic and geographic crossroad, Gaziantep has always been an important

168 A G U I D E T O S O U T H E A S T E R N A N A T O L I A

ganteping 11/16/07 2:49 PM Page 168

Page 32: 140 A GUIDE TO SOUTHEASTERN ANATOLIA ... A GUIDE TO SOUTHEASTERN ANATOLIA An Ancient Center of Trade As a historic and geographic crossroad, Gaziantep has always been an important

169S I G H T S E E I N G I N G A Z I A N T E P

ganteping 11/16/07 2:49 PM Page 169

Page 33: 140 A GUIDE TO SOUTHEASTERN ANATOLIA ... A GUIDE TO SOUTHEASTERN ANATOLIA An Ancient Center of Trade As a historic and geographic crossroad, Gaziantep has always been an important

GaziantepMuseum Kamil Ocak Caddesi, fiehitKamilThe first museum in Gaziantepopened in 1944, later moved tothe Nuri Mehmet Pasha Mosque,and then to its current premisesat the Archeology Museum in1969. In 2005, a new buildingwas opened next door to housethe mosaics and frescoesremoved from Zeugma.Accessed via a gallery, the oldbuilding exhibits works datingfrom prehistory through to theIslamic era.

Hasan SüzerEthnographicMuseumEyüpo¤lu, fiahinbeyThe museum is located in an

early 19th-century traditionalGaziantep house with ashlarwalls and a hipped roof made ofbrick. The building was restoredin 1985, and donated to theMinistry of Culture and Tourismwith the proviso that it functionas the Hasan Süzer EthnographicMuseum. The ethnographicworks formerly displayed at theGaziantep Museum are now onshow at the museum house.

ÖmeriyeMosqueDü¤meci, fiahinbeyAn inscription on the mosquetells us that it was built duringthe caliphate of Umar and wasrestored on three occasions - in1210, 1785 and 1850. One of theoldest mosques in Gaziantep, theashlar Ömeriye Mosque has arectangular plan and two navesparallel to the mihrab. Thestriking, pointed mihrab is madefrom black stone and red marble.The squat, cylindrical minaretrises from inside the mosque.The balustrade of the minaretbalcony features stunningstonework.

SheikhFetullah (fi›h)MosqueKepenek, fiahinbeyKnown locally as the AşağıSheikh Mosque, the SheikhFetullah Mosque is part ofGaziantep’s most important

mosque complex. Today,however, the mosque has noconnection to the other buildingsin the complex, which consistsof a small dervish lodge, Turkishbath and madrasa. According tothe foundation’s deed of trust,the mosque was built in 1563.The mosque has a totally uniqueroof structure, and is in close toits original condition.

Nuri MehmetPasha MosqueSuburcu Caddesi, ÇukurThe mosque was built a fewyears before 1786 by NuriMehmet Pasha. The classicOttoman minaret has twobalconies, and the ornate minbaris made from yellow, black andburgundy marble in a zigzagpattern. A wooden platformstands above the entrance. Themosque was damaged during theresistance, and was briefly usedas a military depot. In 1958, itwas converted into a museum. In1968, the mosque was restoredand reopened for worship.

Ahmet ÇelebiMosqueUlucanlarThe mosque complex wasfounded by Hacı Osman, son ofSheikh Ramazan - a directdescendant of Muhammed – andconsists of a mosque andfountain. The mosque was builtin 1672 and is commonlyreferred to as the Ahmet ÇelebiMosque after the founder of theadjoining madrasa. The mosquefeatures striking examples ofwoodwork as well as a sectionfor women.

6

5

4

3

2

1

170 A G U I D E T O S O U T H E A S T E R N A N A T O L I A

A Hittite relief

Hasan Süzer EthnographicMuseum

Sheikh Fetullah Mosque

ganteping 11/16/07 2:49 PM Page 170

Page 34: 140 A GUIDE TO SOUTHEASTERN ANATOLIA ... A GUIDE TO SOUTHEASTERN ANATOLIA An Ancient Center of Trade As a historic and geographic crossroad, Gaziantep has always been an important

Tahtani(Tahtal›) Mosquefiekero¤lu, fiahinbeyKnown locally as the ‘Tahtalı’ orwooden mosque, this woodenmosque is thought to have beenbuilt in 1557. The unusual semi-circular mihrab is made of redmarble. The mosque wasrestored in 1804, and from 1958-1960.

Tekke (TekkeMevlevihane)MosqueKozluca, fiahinbeyOfficially known as theMevlevihane Mosque, thecomplex consists of dervishcells, a ‘semahane’ for the ritualwhirling, sitting rooms for theadministration and the Mevlevidervishes, toilets, pools and asmall, short minaret. The mosquewas built in 1638 by a TürkmenAgha named Mustafa Agha. Allthe revenue generating areas ofthe mosque burned to the groundin the fires that raged from 1901-1903. These sections were rebuiltby the then Mevlevi sheikh andtrustee of the foundation, SheikhMehmet Münip Efendi. Ratherunusually, a road passes beneaththe mosque’s minaret. TheTurkish General Directorate ofFoundations restored the mosqueand converted it into a Mevlevimuseum.

Alaüddevle(Ali Dola)Mosque

Eski Saray Caddesi, west ofUzun Çarfl› Known by the locals as the AliDola Mosque, the mosque isthought to have been built from1479-1515 under theDulkadiroğulları leaderAlaüddevle Bozkurt Bey. Onlythe minaret remains of theoriginal structure. In 1901, theentrance was completely rebuiltfrom black and white stone, andhas a single dome.

Ali NacarMosqueYaprak, fiehit KamilAlthough the precise date ofconstruction is not known, themosque was built by a carpenternamed Ali. An inscription on themosque tells us that the firstmajor restoration occurred in1816. The staircase to themuezzin’s platform is dated 1213in the Hijri calendar. The mosqueis one of the largest in

Gaziantep, with a rectangularplan and two naves parallel tothe mihrab.

Eyüpo¤luMosqueEyüpo¤lu, fiahinbeyThe mosque is thought to havebeen built in the 14th centurywith the support of learned mannamed Eyüboğlu Ahmet. Theashlar structure was extensivelyrestored in 1947, and has beenpainted, thereby significantlyaltering its original appearance.

fi›h Ömer(Ömer Sheikh)MosqueYaz›c›k, fiahinbeyOriginally built as a masjidsometime before 1559, the deedof trust states that it wasexpanded into a mosque in 1698by Aparoğlu Hacı Mehmet.

KendirliChurchBey, fiahinbeyThe Armenian Catholic churchwas constructed in 1860 with thesupport of French missionariesand Napoleon III. The rectangularplan, white ashlar church is builton a black ashlar foundation andsurrounded by a large garden.Three steps lead up to the maindoor featuring a pediment andpilasters. The floor of the churchis made from red and whitemarble in a checkerboard pattern.Today, the church functions as ameeting hall.

13

12

11

10

9

8

7

171S I G H T S E E I N G I N G A Z I A N T E P

Alaüddevle Mosque

Eyüpoğlu Mosque

Kendirli Church

ganteping 11/16/07 2:49 PM Page 171

Page 35: 140 A GUIDE TO SOUTHEASTERN ANATOLIA ... A GUIDE TO SOUTHEASTERN ANATOLIA An Ancient Center of Trade As a historic and geographic crossroad, Gaziantep has always been an important

172 A G U I D E T O S O U T H E A S T E R N A N A T O L I A

FevkaniChurchfi›klar, NizipThis Byzantine church wasbriefly used as an inn, and isnow deserted.

ArabanFortressCentral ArabanThe Araban Fortress is locatedon a high, flat-topped, prehistorictumulus. Most of the ruinsconsist of the remains of amedieval citadel. In the 11th and12th centuries, Araban was animportant city within the Countyof Edessa, a Crusader state.Today, it has lost its historicimportance and is a small districtcapital. The exact plan anddetails of the medieval fortressare unknown. A large structurebuilt from stone blocks stands onthe summit, and is currently usedas a mosque.

Kürkçü InnBoyac›, fiahinbeyThe inscription states that it wasbuilt in 1890. A classic Ottomantwo-story inn with a singlecourtyard, the building is in goodcondition following numerousrestorations. The ground floorfeatures shops, storage roomsand stables, while theguestrooms are on the upperlevel. A relief of a six-pointedstar can be seen in the centre ofthe pointed barrel vaultstretching along the east-westside of the courtyard.

Eski BüyükBu¤day Pazar›InnKozluca, fiahinbeyThis white ashlar, single-storyinn is thought to have been builtin the 19th century. The sectionopening onto the road on thenorthern face is filled withshops. The inner courtyard has11 rooms. An iwan leads to thestables. Many additions havebeen made to the structure overtime, altering its original formand layout.

Mecidiye InnEski Saray Caddesi, fiahinbeyAlthough the precise date ofconstruction is not known, theinn is referred to as Nakıp Inn inrecords dating from 1756. This isa typical two-story Ottoman innwith a single courtyard. Theground floor of the trapezoidcourtyard is surrounded on allfour sides by rooms of different

shapes and sizes, while a porticosurrounds the upper level. Themain entrances to the inn are onthe east and west sides of thebuilding, which are also linedwith one-story shops.

Belediye InnBelediye Caddesi, fiahinbeyThe inscriptions on three sides ofthe inn provide importantinformation about the structure.Built by an architect namedKirkos, the rectangular plan,classical Ottoman inn wasconstructed from ashlar and hasa hipped roof made of brick.Unusually, three sides of the inneach feature a large portal. Theinn has been recently restored.

Eski Maarif(Yemifl) InnBelediye Caddesi, fiahinbeyThought to date from the 19thcentury, the courtyard of this innonly has buildings on two sides,the south and north. Thebuildings to the south are single-story structures, while those tothe north are two stories tall.This layout is unique to the EskiMaarif (Yemiş) Inn. The inn hasbeen recently restored.

KemikliCovered Bazaars1 and 2fiehitler Caddesi, fiahinbeyThought to date from the secondhalf of the 17th century, theKemikli Bedestens consist oftwo adjacent covered bazaars.Both are classic covered bazaarswith shops on both sides of theirbarrel-vaulted passages. Thebuildings’ entrance is made ofblack stone and local ‘keymik’stone. The covered bazaars stillserve their original function.

ZincirliCovered Bazaar(Meat andVegetableMarket)fiekero¤lu, fiahinbey

22

21

20

19

18

17

16

15

14

Fevkani Church

Araban Fortress

ganteping 11/16/07 2:49 PM Page 172

Page 36: 140 A GUIDE TO SOUTHEASTERN ANATOLIA ... A GUIDE TO SOUTHEASTERN ANATOLIA An Ancient Center of Trade As a historic and geographic crossroad, Gaziantep has always been an important

173S I G H T S E E I N G I N G A Z I A N T E P

RumkaleThis fortress is locatednear the village ofKasaba, 25 kilometersfrom Yavuzeli. Perchedon a peninsula in theBirecik Dam reservoir,Rumkale is accessibleby boat from Kasaba orHalfeti. The fortress isset on a high, steepbank at the junction ofthe Merzimen River andthe Euphrates. Due toits strategic location,the area is thought tohave been settled sinceAssyrian times.Originally namedHromgla, it was knownas Hromklay by theArmenians and as KalaRhomata by the Syriacs.After the Mamlukconquest in the 12thcentury, the areabecame known as Kal-atel Müslimin. Rumkalecame under Ottomanrule following the Battleof Marj Dabiq, and wasa district of Birecik inthe state of Aleppo.Legend has it that St.John the Apostle madecopies of biblicalscripture in Rumkale,and some believe thathis tomb is locatedhere. The area was animportant center ofpower in the 11thcentury when it was partof the County of Edessa,a Crusader state. In the12th and 13thcenturies, the area wasan archbishopric andpatriarchate.The outer walls featurea number of rooms as

well as gates that leadto the inner fortress.The BarflavmaMonastery, Church ofSaint Nerses and anumber of Turkish-Islamic structuresremain standing to thisday. The most intriguingof Rumkale’s structuresis its 75-meter deepwell that spirals down tothe level of theEuphrates. When theTurkish explorer andwriter Evliya Çelebicame here in the 17thcentury, he describedRumkale as a well-preserved fortress with amosque, inn, Turkishbath and marketplace.

ganteping 11/16/07 2:50 PM Page 173

Page 37: 140 A GUIDE TO SOUTHEASTERN ANATOLIA ... A GUIDE TO SOUTHEASTERN ANATOLIA An Ancient Center of Trade As a historic and geographic crossroad, Gaziantep has always been an important

174 A G U I D E T O S O U T H E A S T E R N A N A T O L I A

Built in the first quarter ofthe 18th century, thecovered bazaar is knownlocally as the ZincirliBedesten. The bazaarconsists of two sections -one running from north tosouth, the other east to west- that intersect in thenorthwest. The one-storystructure houses 80 shops.

TabakhaneBridgeBostanc›, fiahinbeySpanning the Alleben River, thisashlar bridge with a semi-circular arch is thought to datefrom the 19th century.

Hüseyin Pasha Baths‹smet Pafla, fiahinbeyAccording to an inscription, thebaths were built in 1727. Thetepidarium has a square plan andis covered by a dome with roundwindows and a lantern. Today,the baths have been convertedinto a market.

‹ki Kap›l›BathsEyüpo¤lu, fiahinbeyThis remarkably well preservedstructure was built in 1737 and isa functioning bath to this day.

Tabak BathsBostanc›, fiahinbeyThought to have been builtbefore the 17th century, theTabak Hamam still functions as a bath.

fi›h BathsKepenek, fiahinbeyLocated to the west of the ŞıhMosque, the baths are in goodcondition and are still inoperation.

fiehitler BathsUlucanlar Sokak, fiahinbeyThought to date from the 19thcentury, the baths are in theiroriginal condition and remain inworking order.

DemirliganeFountain Kozluca, fiahinbeyThe current fountain is a recentreconstruction. Photographs ofthe original fountain show that itwas made of ashlar and featuredan inscription that stated that itwas built in 1592 and restored in 1959.

Nuri BeyFountainfiehitler Caddesi, fiahinbeyThought to date from the end ofthe 19th century, the ashlar‘keymik’ stone fountain has apointed arch.

Hüseyin Pasha(Köfleç Ahmet)Fountain‹smetpafla, fiahinbeyMade of black ashlar and local‘keymik’ stone, the two-tonefountain was built in 1826, andbecame a part of the HüseyinPasha mosque complex in 1872.

TheMausoleum atHisarThe village of Hisar in ArabanThis 10-11 meter highmausoleum is made from ashlarblocks and consists of threesections incorporating a

sepulcher, pedestal, pillaredgallery and pyramidal roof.Technically and stylistically, themausoleum appears to date fromthe 2nd or 3rd century. Fourcolumns support a pyramidalroof with a Corinthian capital atthe top.

TheMausoleum atElifThe village of Elif in ArabanThis 2nd or 3rd century tomb ismade from cut stone. Thevaulted roof is supported byarches that rise from a squarepedestal. Three sides of the tombfeature arches. Semi-circulararches top the Corinthiancapitals. A door in the pedestalleads to a room that is thought tobe the actual sepulcher.

TheMausoleum atHasano¤luThe village of Hasano¤lu inArabanDating from the 2nd or 3rdcentury, the cut stone mausoleumstands on a square pedestal. Thenorthern and eastern facades arecompletely ruined, and only halfof the pedestal remains intact.

TahmisCoffeehouse35

34

33

32

31

30

29

28

27

26

25

24

23

Tahmis Coffeehouse

ganteping 11/16/07 2:50 PM Page 174

Page 38: 140 A GUIDE TO SOUTHEASTERN ANATOLIA ... A GUIDE TO SOUTHEASTERN ANATOLIA An Ancient Center of Trade As a historic and geographic crossroad, Gaziantep has always been an important

175S I G H T S E E I N G I N G A Z I A N T E P

Next to the Tekke MosqueA deed of trust dated 1635 andFarsi inscription dated 1638above the door to the dervishlodge’s ‘semahane’ show that thecoffeehouse was built by theAyıntab Sancak Bey TürkmenMustafa Agha Bin Yusuf. Theentire structure was burnt to theground in the fires that ragedbetween 1901-1903, and wassubsequently rebuilt byFeyzullahoğlu Sheikh MehmetMuhip Efendi. The name‘tahmis’ means ‘place wherecoffee is roasted and ground’. For many years, the TahmisCoffeehouse was also known asthe ‘Lokuslu’ and ‘Tömbekici’coffeehouse. In the yearsimmediately following theestablishment of the Republic,meetings were held at thecoffeehouse as it was the secondlargest venue in Gaziantep afterthe Community Center.

Kavakl›k Kasr›OutdoorCoffeehouse A Gaziantep institution, theKavaklık Kasrı OutdoorCoffeehouse has been in servicefor nearly a century. The summermansion was built by İsmailFevzi Pasha from 1897-1899.The stone building wasconstructed by an Armenianbuilder, and has served a numberof different functions over thecourse of its history. Today, thewell-preserved building serves asa coffeehouse and picnic area.

Burç ForestWalks and PicnicArea

2km from the city centerThe Burç Forest is a popular spotwith locals who come here torelax, play games, exercise andhave picnics. The 350-hectare

forest of fragrant pine trees islocated conveniently near to the city.

NatureReserve and ZooIn the Burç ForestsConstruction work began in1998, and the zoo was completedin 2002. Today, this is the largestanimal park in Turkey, boasting4000 animals from 250 differentspecies.

38

37

36

Kavaklık Kasrı

Burç Artificial Lake

ganteping 11/16/07 2:50 PM Page 175

Page 39: 140 A GUIDE TO SOUTHEASTERN ANATOLIA ... A GUIDE TO SOUTHEASTERN ANATOLIA An Ancient Center of Trade As a historic and geographic crossroad, Gaziantep has always been an important

176 A G U I D E T O S O U T H E A S T E R N A N A T O L I A

Dülük Caveand its EnvironsThis is one of the oldestsettlements in Anatolia.Excavations in the region haveuncovered flint tools datingfrom the Paleolithic era. Thehigh quality flint found in theregion was shaped into tools onthe hilltops around the village

and in the large cave. ThePaleolithic tools uncovered hereare referred to as Dolikien.

The AncientCity of DolicheA place of worship since Hittitetimes, Doliche was declared anarchbishopric by theByzantines. The region was

devastated during the Islamicincursions, and thearchbishopric moved to Zeugmain the 7th century. Doliche’simportance as a center ofreligion swiftly declined.Doliche was supplanted by thenew city of Ayıntap that grewaround the Gaziantep Fortress.Ultimately, once proud Dülükbecame a humble villageattached to Ayıntap.Nevertheless, Dülük retains itsstatus as a place of worship tothis day as the site of themausoleum of Dülükbaba(Davut Ejder).

The Mithraeaof DolicheThe southern foothills of MountKeber This is the first subterraneanshrine to Mithras discovered inAnatolia. The shrine has twosections, and features a relief inits central niche depicting thegod Mithras slaying the sacredbull Tauroctoni. The figure ofMithras is shown surrounded bystars as well as a scorpion,serpent and dog representingthe constellations. The cult ofMithras spread out of Tarsus inthe first century, and hadreached Scotland and the Saharaby the 3rd century. Bulls weresacrificed to Mithras, and theworshippers believed that bydrinking and bathing in itsblood, they would achieve thepower and immortalityrepresented by the bull.

3

2

1

DolicheLocated 11 km north ofGaziantep, the village of Dülükand its environs have beensettled throughout humanhistory, and serve as a uniquewindow onto our collective past.The open-air museum featuresstone tools dating back 30-40,000 years, an undergroundshrine to Mithras, stunning rocktombs and a quarry thatproduced massive blocks ofstone.

ganteping 11/16/07 2:50 PM Page 176

Page 40: 140 A GUIDE TO SOUTHEASTERN ANATOLIA ... A GUIDE TO SOUTHEASTERN ANATOLIA An Ancient Center of Trade As a historic and geographic crossroad, Gaziantep has always been an important

177S I G H T S E E I N G I N G A Z I A N T E P

DolicheNecropolisThe rocky area near thevillage of Dülük served as thenecropolis of Doliche.Inspired by the appropriatelyeternal nature of rock, themulti-roomed tombs werecarved underground or intothe rock face. The archedniches in the tombsrepresented the sky, orimmortality. The rooms areornamented with architecturalembellishments and sacredsymbols. The necropolis wasused from the 4th to the 6thcenturies BC during theHellenistic, Roman and EarlyByzantine periods.

Doliche RockTombOne of the most beautiful rocktombs in the necropolis of theancient city of Doliche, this 3rdcentury tomb consists of threerooms and a hall. Theornamentation in the centralsection suggests that the mostimportant members of thefamily or group were interredhere.

DolicheQuarriesRock was first quarried here forthe construction of majorstructures in the ancient city ofDoliche, and later for the

fortress and other importantbuildings in Gaziantep. Thequarry functioned until the lateOttoman period. Workmen’smarks and sacred symbols canstill be seen.

DülükbabaForest Walks andPicnic Area4 km from the city centerCovering 40 square kilometersto the north and northwest ofGaziantep, this is one of thelargest nature reserves inTurkey. The Dülükbaba forestsconsist mainly of black pine andcedar trees and are a popularpicnic area. The Dülük RockTombs are located within thenature reserve.

7

6

54

ganteping 11/16/07 2:51 PM Page 177

Page 41: 140 A GUIDE TO SOUTHEASTERN ANATOLIA ... A GUIDE TO SOUTHEASTERN ANATOLIA An Ancient Center of Trade As a historic and geographic crossroad, Gaziantep has always been an important

178 A G U I D E T O S O U T H E A S T E R N A N A T O L I A

Culture

Copper workGaziantep has a long andestablished tradition of copperwork, and is renowned forproducing solid pieces withoutany soldering or joins.

Gaziantep produces copperkitchen implements includingfrying pans, bowls, drinkingcups and cauldrons as well asother household objectsincluding ewers, samovars,vases, coffeepots and teakettles.

Yemeni makingTraditionally worn by farmers, ‘yemeni’ are a kind of flat-heeled shoemade from natural leather and cotton thread. The sole of the shoe ismade from water buffalo or cattle hide, the uppers from goatskin, thelining from sheepskin, and the border from kidskin. Yemeni usuallycome in two colors, red or black, and in variety of styles known as‘kelik’, ‘küçük hasbe’ or ‘büyük hasbe’. The shoes are extremelycomfortable and healthy as the natural leather is soft and breathes. Inaddition, a layer of clay between the lower and upper soles absorbsenergy from the body and transfers it to the ground.

Mother-of-pearlinlayThe art of mother-of-pearl inlaywas born in the Middle East, andspread to the Ottoman Empireafter the 15th century.Traditionally, walnut is used inmother-of-pearl inlay. New andelaborate motifs were developedover the years, and mother-of-pearl inlay became a popularform of ornamentation inbuildings, household objects andweaponry.

ganteping 11/16/07 2:51 PM Page 178

Page 42: 140 A GUIDE TO SOUTHEASTERN ANATOLIA ... A GUIDE TO SOUTHEASTERN ANATOLIA An Ancient Center of Trade As a historic and geographic crossroad, Gaziantep has always been an important

179G A Z I A N T E P C U L T U R E

Antep WorkThis type of embroidery isunique to the region ofGaziantep. White, yellow andcream threads areembroidered onto a whitebackground. ‘Antep işi’ or‘Antep work’ was developedby housewives in and aroundthe city. Modern examples ofAntep work feature coloredand glittery threads whileremaining faithful to theoriginal technique.

WeavingKilimsAntep kilims are woven fromthreads made from ox hair,camelhair, horsehair, sheep’s wooland goat hair, and differ from kilimsmade in other regions in terms oftheir shape, weave, embroidery andeven the looms on which they arewoven.

Kutnu An ancient, hand woven fabric produced only in Gaziantep, ‘kutnu’ is ablend of artificial silk and cotton. Kutnu is used to make traditionalGaziantep dress as well as accessories, souvenir items, bags, slippersand curtains.

Aba An ‘aba’ is an traditionalitem of men’s clothing madefrom a special fabric wovenfrom camelhair, ox hair andhorsehair. ‘Aba’ come in arange of styles, and areknown by a variety of namesdepending on their material,color, length, and the regionwhere they are worn.

Folk dancesThe most famous Gaziantepfolk dance is the ‘halay’.Performed by men andwomen together, the halay isa celebration of the end ofthe harvest. Local folkdances vary in tempo fromlanguorous to almostfrantically rhythmic. Themost popular dances are theDokuzlu, Oğuzlu, Çepikli-Çibikli (Havarisko),Kırıkhan, Ağırlama, FatigeDemune, Şirin Nar, Mendilli,Leylim, Meryem, Mermere,Çobanbeyli, Nahsani andBarak Halayı.

MusicTurkish Classical Musicplays an important role inGaziantep culture andlifestyle, and the city boastsmany live performances aswell as music stores sellingtraditional Turkishinstruments. The music of theregions of İslahiye andNurdağı, as well as theplateaus and mountains, isheavily influenced by BarakMusic. Indoor entertainmentsare usually accompanied bya bağlama (a pluckedinstrument with three doublestrings and a long neck).

Zurna The most popular folk windinstrument in the region isthe ‘zurna’, crafted fromapricot wood. Varietiesknown as Tüm Kaba Zurna,Orta Kaba Zurna and CuraZurna are produced inGaziantep.

ganteping 11/16/07 2:52 PM Page 179

Page 43: 140 A GUIDE TO SOUTHEASTERN ANATOLIA ... A GUIDE TO SOUTHEASTERN ANATOLIA An Ancient Center of Trade As a historic and geographic crossroad, Gaziantep has always been an important

180 A G U I D E T O S O U T H E A S T E R N A N A T O L I A

Gaziantep CuisineGaziantep has one of the finest cuisines not only in Turkeybut in the whole world, boasting unique sauces and blendsof flavors and spices. Local fruits and vegetables play animportant role in the Gaziantep kitchen. The majority ofmeat and vegetable dishes can also be prepared withyoghurt. Cuts of meat and spices are chosen specifically foreach dish.

Meatballs (Köfte)İçli Köfte, Çiğ Köfte, Ekşili UfakKöfte, Malhıtalı Köfte, YağlıKöfte, Tene Katması, SiniKöftesi, Akıtmalı Köfte

KebapKuşbaşı, Kemeli Tike Kebabı,Kebap with Vegetables, YeniDünya Kebabı, Apple Kebap,Eggplant Kebap, Kıyma Kebabı,Cartlak Kebabı, Garlic Kebap,Tikeli Kebabı, Quince Kebap,Ekşili Kebap, Yoghurt Kebap,Frenk Kebabı, Simit Kebabı

Soups (Çorba)Alaca Çorba, Ezo Gelin Çorbası,Lebeniye, Öz Çorbası, MaşÇorbası, Dövmeli Alaca Çorba,Yoğurtlu Çorba, Börek Çorbası,Keme Çorbası, Şiveydiz Çorbası,Tarhana Çorbası

Meat DishesGaziantep meat dishes areprimarily made with mutton andinclude Yuvalama, Alinazik, FirikPilavı, Potatoes with Yoghurt,Ekşili Daraklık Tavası, Trotters,Kelle Paça, İncik Haşlaması,Paşa Köftesi, Fried Chicken withVegetables and Beyran.

Stuffed DolmasMixed Dolma, Eggplant Dolma,Pepper Dolma, Tomato Dolma,Haylan Kabağı Dolma, Firikli(fresh wheat) and CucumberDolma, Carrot Dolma, OnionDolma, Artichoke Dolma,Mumbar Dolma, Rib Dolma,Vine Leaves Stuffed withCracked Wheat, Vine LeavesStuffed with Rice, StuffedCabbage Leaves, Stuffed Beets,Vine Leaves Stuffed with Nuts

Lahmacun Şiveydiz

Firik pilaf-tandır Kebaplar

Potatoes with yoghurt Yuvalama

Ali Nazik Analı Kızlı

Beyran Ekşili ufak köfte

ganteping 11/16/07 2:52 PM Page 180

Page 44: 140 A GUIDE TO SOUTHEASTERN ANATOLIA ... A GUIDE TO SOUTHEASTERN ANATOLIA An Ancient Center of Trade As a historic and geographic crossroad, Gaziantep has always been an important

181G A Z I A N T E P C U I S I N E

Antep BaklavaThe most famous Turkish dessertis baklava. The nomadic peoplesof Central Asia are known tohave cooked thin layers of pastryon a hot plate and served themlayered on top of each other.Today, this proto-baklava hasmetamorphosed into a refinedand delicious dessert. Twovarieties of ‘yufka’ pastry areprepared in Turkey: a thickdough used to make savory‘börek’ and a wafer thin dough

for baklava. Gaziantep baklavais renowned not only for itsexceptional flavor but also forthe extraordinary thinness of itstranslucent pastry.Although every baklava makerhas their own secretmeasurements, the basicpreparation is the same. Doughis prepared using flour, eggs, saltand starch, and rolled out into athin pastry. 12-14 layers ofpastry are placed on a greasedpan, interspersed with layers ofplain butter. Clotted cream madewith semolina and milk is spreadevenly over the entire surface.Ground unripe ‘boz’ pistachiosare sprinkled over the top.Further layers of pastry areplaced on top of the filling,again interspersed with butter.The baklava is then cut into thedesired shape. Warm oil isdrizzled over the baklava, whichis then placed in the oven. Whenthe baklava is ready, the ‘şerbet’syrup is poured over the top andleft to cool before being served.

Breakfast specialtiesKatmer, Kaymak, Muhammara, Yeşil Zeytin Ekşileme, TarhanaEritmesi

Baklava can be cut into slices orsquares.

Gaziantep is also famous fortwo other pastries: ‘şöbiyet’(above) and ‘fıstıklı dolma’(below).

Desserts

Candied walnuts in molasses

Şöbiyet

ganteping 11/16/07 2:53 PM Page 181