115 88 STOCKHOLM 2011 -03 18 T shirt m/05 Ingrid Bergh, … · · 2012-04-232.11 ISO 16322-3 Determination of spirality change after laundering- ... Knitted fabric: Body fabric:

Armed Forces General Services Office

11FMV69-35:1 1(16)

TECHNICAL SPECIFICATION 11786 D

115 88 STOCKHOLM 2011-03-18 T-shirt m/05 Ingrid Bergh, phone: +46 8 782 4024

M7321-174000-9 T-shirt m/05 kä grbr T-shirt m/05 short sleeve green brown M7321-173000-0 T-shirt m/05 lä grbr T-shirt m/05 long sleeve green brown M7321-175000-8 T-shirt m/05 kä mblå T-shirt m/05 short sleeve dark blue M7321-176000-7 T-shirt m/05 kä vit T-shirt m/05 short sleeve white

Table of contents

1. DESCRIPTION ......................................................... 2

2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS .................................. 3

3. PRODUCT REQUIREMENTS .................................. 5

4. MANUFACTURING ............................................... 10

5. MEASUREMENTS ................................................. 11

6. QUALITY ASSURANCE ........................................ 13

7. PACKING INSTRUCTIONS ................................... 15

Confirmed:

Date: 2011-03-30 Helena Lundberg Product manager

Quartermaster materiel


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1. DESCRIPTION

Short sleeve and long sleeve T-shirt knitted in 55 % modacrylic and 45 % cotton. The material composition results in flame retardant properties. The T-shirt is produced in three colours, green brown, dark blue and white. The garment is made of single jersey with a 1x1 neck rib. The T-shirt is produced in 6 sizes (3-8).


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2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS For documents mentioned in this Technical Specification, issues which are current at the time of the enquiry will apply.

2.1 EN 12127 Determination of mass per unit area using small samples

2.2 EN ISO 6330 Domestic washing and drying procedures for textile testing 7. Washing procedure Table 1: Machine Type A1

Procedure 2A 60C 8. Drying procedure 8.5 Tumble dry

2.3 EN ISO 5077 Determination of dimensional change in washing and drying

2.4 EN ISO 105-C06 Colour fastness to domestic and commercial laundering 4.3.2 Two single-fibre adjacent fabrics

6. Test No C1S 60C 4.4 b) ECE Detergent

2.5 EN ISO 105-B02/A1 Colour fastness to artificial light: Xenon arc fading lamp test ISO 105-B02:1994/Amd 2:2000 4.1.1 References 1 to 8 6.1 Conditions preferable for use in Europe a) Normal conditions

7.1.2 Method 1

2.6 EN ISO 105-E04 Colour fastness to perspiration 4.5.2 Two single-fibre adjacent fabrics

2.7 EN ISO 2062 Yarn from packages – Determination of single-end breaking force and elongation at break

2.8 ISO 4915 Stitch types - Classification and terminology


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2.9 EN ISO 4589-2/A1 Measuring the minimum oxygen concentration to

2006 support candle-like combustion of plastics (oxygen index). Determination of LOI-value.

2.10 EN 1103 Burning behaviour-Fabrics for apparel-Detailed procedure to determine the burning behaviour of fabrics for apparel.

2.11 ISO 16322-3 Determination of spirality change after laundering- Part: 3 Woven and knitted garments

2.12 EN ISO 105-X12 Colour fastness to rubbing

2.13 EN ISO 9001 Quality management systems – Requirements. Permissible exclusions: Sub-clause 7.3: design and development

2.14 Öko-Tex General and special conditions Standard 100 Product class II

2.15 FSD A4702:116 Ownership mark (crown mark) Size 3

The colour in the technical specification refer to the Pantone Colour System

www.pantone.com

A model will be supplied by FMV in connection with the FMV production briefing to the appointed manufacturer. In the case of any difference between the model and this Technical Specification, the Technical Specification shall take precedence.

If any documentation supplied by FMV should seem incorrect, FMV must be informed about this. No drawings or specifications may be altered without the agreement of FMV.

http://www.pantone.com/


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3. PRODUCT REQUIREMENTS

3.1 General: The workmanship must conform to the industry standard for the manufacture of quality goods as described below. Material provided by the supplier must be of the quality as required below and must be approved by FMV before being used.

Colours: All material, except the label, included in this product to be: a) Green brown as the colour and fabric sample. Guideline for green brown colour: Pantone 19-0820 TCX b) Dark blue as the colour and fabric sample. Guideline for dark blue colour: Pantone 19-4013 TCX c) White as the colour and fabric sample. Guideline for the white colour: Pantone 11-4201 TCX Colour and fabric sample may be ordered from: FMV FMgem prod SE-115 88 Stockholm Sweden Fax: +46 (0)8 782 61 67 E-mail: [email protected]

3.2 Yarn: Composition: 55 % modacrylic/45 % cotton ring spun,± 7 % units Yarn number: Nm 40/1 The modacrylic and the cotton shall be intimately blended, spun together. The modacrylic shall be intended for apparel, and have inherent and permanent flame retardant properties.

mailto:[email protected]


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3.3

Knitted fabric: Body fabric: Single jersey 55 % modacrylic/45 % cotton, mass per unit area 190g/m² ± 7%, according to EN 12127

Neck rib: 1:1 rib 55 % modacrylic/45 % cotton, mass per unit area 230 g/m² ± 7%, according to EN It is important that the collar keeps its shape after wash.

3.3.1 Properties: Requierments: Test method:

Colour fastness to wash min. 4 EN ISO 105-C06, 60ºC

Colour fastness to light min. 4 EN ISO 105-B02/A1

Colour fastness to perspiration min. 4 EN ISO 105-E04

Colour fastness to rubbing dry: wet

min. 4 min. 3-4

EN ISO 105-X12

LOI-value min. 30 EN ISO 4589-2/A1 2006

Burning behaviour No ignition EN 1103

3.4 Sewing thread:

All seams: Core spun polyester/cotton 280 dtex x2 (Ticket no. 120).


Colour fastness to wash min. 4 EN ISO 105-C06, 60ºC

Colour fastness to light min. 4 EN ISO 105-B02/A1

Colour fastness to perspiration min. 4 EN ISO 105-E04

Dimensional change max. 1 % after one wash

EN ISO 5077 EN ISO 6330, 60ºC

Tensile strength 11 N EN ISO 2062


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3.5 Marking:

The size of the label can be adapted to an automatic labelling machine.

3.5.1 Label: Woven Material: 100% polyester in silver-grey colour Size: Width approx. 45 mm, height approx. 85 mm excl. seam allowance The size and placing of the text and figures in accordance with the sketch. Text and figures in black colour.

The label to show: M-number Ownership label (crown mark according to FSD A4702:116, size 3) Size and weight Year of manufacture Material composition Maintenance instruction Manufacturer Country of manufacture

3.5.2 Sketch for label:

60°

T-SHIRT M/05

M7321-xxxxxx-x

20XX

55 % MODAKRYL 45 % BOMULL

FIRMA/COMPANY

LAND/COUNTRY

Chart for sizes and weight

Size Weight

3 50-60

4 60-70

5 70-80

6 80-95

7 95-110

8 110-

The size and placing of the figures according to the sketch.


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3.5.3 Properties: Requirement: Test method:

Colour fastness to washing

min. 4-5 EN ISO 105-C06 4.3.2 Two single-fibre adjacent fabrics 6 Test No C1S 60°C 4.4 b) ECE Detergent

Dimensional change warp/weft, after washing

max. 2 % EN 25077 EN ISO 6330 5 Washing procedure Table 1:Machine Type A1 Procedure 2 A 60°C 6.5 Tumble dry

Colour fastness to perspiration

min. 4 EN ISO 105-E04 4.5.2 Two single-fibre adjacent fabrics

3.5.4

Placement of the label: The label to be folded and stitched in the neck seam centre back on the inside of the T-shirt with the crown mark visible.

3.5.5 Ownership mark, Crown mark as per FSD A4702:116, size 3. Merchandise, that has been crown marked and rejected during production, or at delivery control, must not be sold by the supplier on the public market before the crown mark has been removed or obliterated (Act of law 1970-06-29, SFS nr 498/1970).


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3.6 Requirements for the ready-made garment:


Dimensional change length: max. 7 % EN ISO 5077 EN ISO 6330, 60ºC width: max. 3 %

after one wash

Determination of spirality after laundering

max .3 % ISO 16322-3

3.6.2 The requirements in Öko-tex Standard 100 to be fulfilled, general and special

conditions, Product class II

3.6.3 Nonylephenol Ethoxylate (NPE) is not permitted in the ready-made T-shirts or any step of the manufacture process of the T-shirts. The maximum limit of NPE is 50mg/kg


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4. MANUFACTURING

4.1 Knitting

4.1.1 Body fabric: Collar fabric:

Machine: Circular knitting machine 24 gauge

Circular knitting machine 15 gauge

Knitting method: Plain knitting 1 x1 rib

4.2 Making up the T-shirts – sewing

4.2.1 General technical manufacturing requirements: – The fabric to be relaxed before cutting.

– All seams to be locked at both ends.

4.2.2 EN ISO 4915 Stitch types – Classification and terminology

4.3 Sewing machines: 4.3.1

1-needle overlock, 3 threads, stitch type 504, seam width 4 mm. Stitches/cm: 4. – Making up the collar – Making up the shoulder seams – Making up the sleeves (or sleeve/side seam) – Attaching the sleeves and collar

4.3.2 2-needle chain stitch with looper thread, 3 threads, stitch type 406, stitches/cm: 4. Distance between the needles 5 mm. – Hemming the sleeves and shirt bottom edge

4.3.3 2-needle double chain stitch machine, 4 threads, stitch type 2 x 401. Stitches/cm: 4-5. Distance between the needles 8 mm. Folded tape width 10 mm. – Attaching the reinforcing tape from one shoulder over the neck to the

other shoulder at the wrong side of the shirt. The tape is made of cross cut body fabric.

M7321-xxxxxx 20XX

VIKT 60-70 kg 4


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5. MEASUREMENTS All measurements in cm. Tolerances: ± 1 cm.

Size: 3 4 5 6 7 8

Weight in kg: 50-60 60-70 70-80 80-95 95-110 110

Length from shoulder A 69 71 73 75 78 81

Half chest B 48 51 54 57 60 63

Sleeve length for short sleeve C 21 22 23 24 25 25

Half sleeve hole D 24 25 27 28 29 31

Shoulder width E 15 16 17 18 19 20

Neck rib height F 3 3 3 3 3 3

Half sleeve opening for short sleeve

G 18 19 20 21 22 23

Neck width H 14.5 15 16 16.5 17 17.5

Neck drop front I 10.5 11 11 12 12.5 12.5

Half bottom K 48 51 54 57 60 63

Sleeve length for long sleeve L 55 58 61 63 65 67

Half sleeve opening for long sleeve

M 10 10 11 11 12 12

D

B

E

C

G

H

I

F

A

K


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D

B

E L

M

F

K

A


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6. QUALITY ASSURANCE

Supplier's Commitments

The supplier shall establish and maintain an effective quality system that meets the requirements of EN ISO 9001, Quality management systems - Requirements. Permissible exclusion: Sub-clause 7.3, Design and development.

The supplier shall provide FMV*, in good time before the start of production, with reference samples and material together with documents according to a, b, c, and d, listed below. The requirements in this Technical Specification must be fulfilled.

a) Reference samples from the production plant where the actual production is placed: 2 T-shirts per size and colour, short and long sleeve.

b) Test report from an independent laboratory, accredited to perform

test methods required in this specification, for:

Colour fastness to wash - fabric LOI-value - fabric Burning behaviour - fabric Spirality change after one wash - ready-made garment Dimensional change - ready-made garment Colour fastness to light - fabric Colour fastness to perspiration - fabric Mass unit per area - fabric Colour fastness to rubbing - fabric c) Technical data sheet, showing that the product fulfils the

requirements, for: All including materials

d) Separate samples of the following components shall be sent in: - 2 meters of the body fabric - Sewing thread on original cone, -

with readable labels - 2 meters of the neck rib fabric - Labels, all sizes, 2 pieces of

each size FMV assesses and approves the received material.


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Buyer's Quality Control

FMV reserves the right to review the supplier's quality system and to make

manufacturing and quality inspections during the current period of contract in a way that FMV considers suitable.

* ADDRESS: FMV: FMgem prod, SE-115 88 Stockholm, Sweden


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7. PACKING INSTRUCTIONS 7.1 Ordering of packing

The order must be in writing and sent to: FMCL, Styrmansgatan 14, 732 31 ARBOGA, SWEDEN. E-mail: [email protected] To state: - number of the current order, eg. LB-number - stock-number and stock-designation - desired number of boxes - number of labels per size FMCL encloses the adequate number of sealing tape required for the ordered number of boxes.

7.2 Spare packing

The above mentioned packing shall be used exclusively in connection with the current order. Any spare packing shall be returned to FMCL, Styrmansgatan 14, 732 31 ARBOGA, SWEDEN. E-mail: [email protected]. Suppliers failing to do so will be charged for the spare packing items.

7.3 Types of cardboard boxes Terms for different

boxes Size (mm) L x W x H

No. of ready-packed boxes/ pallet

No. of folded boxes, bundled/ pallet

Sizes (mm) of bundled boxes incl. height of pallet

Weight (kg) bundled boxes incl. pallet

No. of folded boxes/ bundle, tied up

K2 M7040-276010 570x380x 260 20 240 1350x1200x1250 280 20

7.4 Number of products per cardboard box

Type of box: Number: Stock-number: Stock-designation:

K2 70 M7321-174000-9 T-shirt m/05 kä grbr

K2 60 M7321-173000-0 T-shirt m/05 lä grbr

K2 70 M7321-175000-8 T-shirt m/05 kä mblå

K2 70 M7321-176000-7 T-shirt m/05 kä vit

7.5 Information about the quality of the cardboard boxes

The boxes are extra thick and specially treated for piling up and storing during longer times.

7.6 Sealing tape

M7605-103107 The cardboard boxes shall be sealed with the supplied sealing tape in such a way that the labels are not concealed. The bottom of the boxes shall be sealed with a lengthwise sealing tape both on the inside and outside of the box. Figure 1.

7.7 Information about the quality of the sealing tape

The sealing tape is to be wet with water in order to get affixed The sealing tape is specially treated to protect the products against damp and other damages.




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7.8 Packing

Boxes not filled up N.B. More than one size in each cardboard box is not allowed. If all of one size does not fill up the whole of a box, the vacant space shall -be filled up with other suitable materials. This filling must not generate dust or otherwise be detrimental to its contents. Exceptions, if any must be approved by FMV.

Type of pallets The cardboard boxes shall be loaded on EUR pallets, 800 x 1200 mm. The pallets to be in perfect condition. The boxes shall be secured on to the pallet. The maximum height, including the pallet, is 1600 mm. The supplier shall free of charge supply the requisite number of pallets. Deliveries without required pallets will be replaced with new pallets. The extra cost will be charged the contractor.

7.9 Marking

Pre-printed data Figure 2.

a) Stock-number (FBET) b) Stock-designation (FBEN) c) Number d) Size e) Number of the order

Data filled in by the supplier

f) Date of packing g) In exceptional cases, FMV may allow deviation from the stipulated number of pieces in the boxes in written form. In such cases both the bar-code and the figures are to be crossed out. The actual number of pieces shall then be indicated with a felt pen on the label. Figure 2.

Position of the two labels

To facilitate the end-user's scanning, please attach the labels evenly over the corresponding box print. Figure 1.

Figure 1.

Figure 2.

Labels

Sealing tape both on theinside and outside of the box

FBET

FBEN

ANTAL BEST NR

STORLEK

SAMMANF FBET

X X X X X X

M0000-000000-0 M0000-000000-0

00000-LB00000

År Mån Dag

FÖRP.DAG

0 0 0

0 0

See packing instruction 6.1 Fill in

År = Y e a rM å n = M o n thD a g = D a y

År = Year Mån = Month Dag = Day

Documents

115 88 STOCKHOLM 2011 -03 18 T shirt m/05 Ingrid Bergh, … · · 2012-04-232.11 ISO 16322-3 Determination of spirality change after laundering- ... Knitted fabric: Body fabric: