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Sungmin Kim
SEOUL NATIONAL UNIVERSITY
Fashion Technology2. Concept and Fabric Design
Garment Design
• Body modeling• 3D draping simulation
Pattern Design
• 2D Parametric design• 3D pattern design
Fabric Design
• Weave CAD• 2.5D Mapping
Concept Design
• Scalable vector graphics• Feature-based design
Design Process
Overview
2
DesignProcess
Concept Design
Style Design Importance
One of the most important processes for determining the trend and target market
Optimum style design with various materials and trends is necessary
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Concept Design
Style Design Utilization of Design Tools
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Design from Scratch
CombinatoryDesign
Texture MappingVirtual Catalog
Concept Design
Style Design Benefits of Design Tool
Utilization of extensive well-organized style diagram database
Maximization of designers’ creativity through automation style combinations
Reduction of time and cost for sample production
Required Technology
2D Computer Graphics
– Vector graphics– Raster graphics
Data Handling
– BLOB (binary large object) Database– File Compatibility
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Concept Design
Computer Graphics Definition
Research field related to the activities that includes graphics as input and output
Importance
Interactive shape manipulations plays a major role in CAD/CAM/CAE
Computer graphics is an essential part of CAD/CAM/CAE software
Graphics Programming
Device drivers
– A set of machine dependent codes that directly controls the DPU (Display Processing Unit)
Graphics libraries
– A set of subroutines for specific purposes
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Concept Design
Computer Graphics Raster System
Pixel (Picture Element) based
– Bitmap structure– Processing time is the same regardless of scene complexity– Suitable for detailed expression– Scaling or rotation causes quality degradation– BMP, GIF, JPG, TIF, PCX, ...
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Concept Design
Computer Graphics Vector System
Coordinate system based
– Vector calculus– Processing time depends on scene complexity– Difficult to express details of an object– Non-destructive scaling and rotation – DXF, IGES, WMF, AI, ...
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Concept Design
Computer Graphics Hybrid System
Vector system for outline
Raster system for detail
Suitable for style design diagrams
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Concept Design
Feature Database Combinatory Design
Context-based design
Editable and scalable
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Free Shape+
Line+
Primitive
Concept Design
Applications Job Order Instruction
EDI (Electronic Data Interchange)
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Concept Design Applications Virtual Catalog
Real-time interactive combination of various options
Provide possible combination scenarios to customers
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Fabric Design
Weave CAD Major Functions
Automatic Structural Design
– Basic (plain, twill, satin) , extended, and special woven structure database
– Automatic weavability evaluation and peg plan generation
– Various design tools
Loom Control Function
– Electronic Dobby/Jacquard loom control function
Digital Printing Function
– Color separation and calibration for optimized digital textile printing
Advanced Features
– 3D visualization of woven structure
– Photo-realistic visualization of fabric design on garments
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Weft
Warp
Fabric Design
Weave CAD Principles of Weaving
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Shuttle
Warp
Weft
Cloth Beam Warp Beam
Fabric Design Weave CAD Three Basic Woven Structures
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Plain Twill Satin
Fabric Design
Weave CAD Complex Structures
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Oblique Rib Weave
Fancy Basket Weave Broken Twill
Diaper Twill Checkerboard Satin
Brighton Honey Comb
Fabric Design
Weave CAD Parametric Structure Design
Script language based automation
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Name=Brighton honey-combType=1Hint=Size must be an odd numberParam=1Size=7Rule=12
GRID,(Size+1)*2,(Size+1)*2LINE-45,0,1,(Size+1)*2-1LINE-45,1,0,(Size+1)*2-1LINE45,0,Size*2+1,(Size+1)*2HORZLINE,1,10,1,1,Size,-2HORZLINE,Size+2,0,1,1,Size-2,-2HORZLINE,2,(Size+1)*2-1,1,-1,Size-2,-2HORZLINE,Size+1,(Size+1)*2-1,1,-1,Size,-2HORZLINE,0,Size,1,1,Size,-2HORZLINE,Size+2,Size+1,1,1,Size,-2HORZLINE,0,Size,1,-1,Size,-2HORZLINE,Size+2,Size+1,1,-1,Size,-2
Fabric Design
Weave CAD Interactive Manipulation
Creative design
Automatic weavability evaluation
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Fabric Design
Weave CAD 2D Visualization
Yarn modeling for photo-realistic expression
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Yarn Modeling
Dobby
Jacquard
Fabric Design
Weave CAD 2D Visualization
Color calibration
– CIE, XYZ, LCh color space conversion– DTP (Digital Textile Printing) Swatch
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Fabric Design
Weave CAD 3D Visualization
Internal structure of fabric
– 3D Modeling for further analysis– FEM (Finite Element Method), Heat Transfer, etc.
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Fabric Design
Weave CAD 2.5D Mapping
Pseudo 3D Mapping
Verification of fabric design on actual product
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Traditional2D Mapping
Fabric Design
Weave CAD 2.5D Mapping
Isoparametric Mapping
– Definition of multiple regions according to patterns– Definition of virtual grid for isoparametric mapping
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Original Photo Region & GridComposite Image
Fabric Design
Weave CAD Isoparametric Mapping
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1
10
Texture Image
1
1
0 New Coordinate System (Grid)
0
1
1
IsoparametricMapping
Simple Mapping
Fabric Design
Knit CAD Major Functions
Generation of various structures such as tricot, double raschel, and so on.
Conversion of garment pattern into knit structure
Production planning based on yarn consumption data
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Warp Knit Weft Knit
Fabric Design
Knit CAD Whole Garment Knitting
Ideal seamless garment
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Whole garment knitting machine
(Shima Seiki)
Fabric Design
Print Design Conventional Printing
Optimum color separation
Continuous silk screen printing
Digital Printing
Full color design
Environment friendly
Low productivity
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Fabric Design
Print Design New technology for fast digital textile printing
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Conventional Silk Screen PrintingSingle-Pass high speed printing
