1. Historic Textile Introduction to wool, silk & linen wallcoverings, rugs & upholstery by Prof. Hein with the Metropolitan exhibition textiles

2. Textile Introduction : MET Historic Examples Contents: Linen, Silk, wool yarns Weaves: Brocade, Damask, Cut Pile weave Fabric Design: Tapestry Other Warp (weft-crosswise) Embroidery by Prof. Hein , INTR 151 with the Metropolitan Museum 2005 exhibition textiles and departmental storage requests 3. 200 AD Egyptian linens - King Tut 4. Prof. Jennifer Hein History of TextilesGuide- Chpt 3 NotesLocation of Textile Production - Textile Industry Movement &Machines TEXTILE TIMELINE according to archaeological records 4000 BC 3000 BCSheep & wool were traded in Europe & Asia Minor Linen placed in Egyptian tombs Weavings are found that were in use in Europe. Linen produced in the Middle East2000 BC Linen yarns & wool found used by Swiss Cotton grown in India. Evidence of spinning, weaving & trading cotton Linen & wool Tapestries are made in Egypt. Silk industry begins SILK & WOOL TIMELINE (Chpt 3, pp. 16-p.22) 1000 BC Ornamental weaving with plant materials: linen, flax, reed found in Greece Wool dyeing occurs in Rome 5. Linen Webster defined as yarn or thread made of flax fibers, fabric woven from flax yarns Archaeological extant linen fiber mummy wrappings 6. Silk- (Webster) thread or fabric made from the soft, lustrous fiber obtained from the cocoon of the silk-worm. 12th-13th century Italian & German Silk Upholstery Italian silk and metallic wrapped linen thread, or German-silk, hemp & tin gilt threads 7. BASIC WEAVES- UPHOLSTERY FABRICMedium Weight- Complex Weaves Light to Medium Weight Simple Weaves DAMASK (stylized floral) One of the oldest and most popular staple cloths -a patterned fabric where the design is the reverse construction of the satin background always reversible origin: China via Damascus in Asia Minor. SCHUMACHER SAMPLE GLOSSARY of COMPLEX WEAVESBROCADE Historical design figures Interwoven design of raised all-over, multi-colored figures (often floral) easily identified by horizontal bands of color on back of fabric not reversible origin: Medieval Latin, broccare -to embroider. 8. BROCADE (Webster) fabric woven with a raised design14th Century Metallic Silk Brocades 9. Textile Description, 5 words: color, content, pattern / design, weave, product. Green, silk satin weave floral (design) upholstery. 10. 15th C. Tapestry Wall Coverings 11. TAPESTRY with Student Interior Ex. Historical pictorial designs) An intricate pattern employing several sets of warps which produce a Multi- colored, heavy, durable fabric -originally made with a design that illustrated a story and used as wall hangings for decoration as well as insulation (warmth)origin: Greek tapes -rug. 12. Tapestry- (Webster) a heavy decorative woven fabric with a pictorial design / pictures15 - 17th century Tapestry 13. WOOL- Webster, yarn, fabric or garments made from fine, soft hair that forms the fleece of sheep and other animals ( goat, llama,)Mid Century Textiles 14th- 16th century Wool Tapestry Wallcoverings were for warmth then only decorative. 14. Warp- Webster, a set of yarns placed lengthwise in the loom. Tapestry originally had wool weft or filling on a linen warp or ground.17th c. French Tapestry Artwork 15. TIMELINE OF TEXTILE INDUSTRY FROM EUROPE TO THE UNITED STATES1607-1625 London & India exported sheep to VA and New York City. 1641 Wool woven in American Colonies. 1650s English textile weavers moved to Lowell, MASS and begins American textile industry. 1770 George Washington imported Merino Lambs. 1798-1800 Cotton Gin Invented 1800 Industrial Revolution in Textile manufacturing began War of 1812 Forced American weavers to produce more than personal goods, so the American textile industry takes off with production of blankets & cloth for the army. 1814-25 New Harmony, IN had the Harmonist Society who developed production weaving. 1850s Sewing Machine & Jacquard Loom successfully used in industry. 16. 15-17th Century Regal Design 17. Tapestry Design Wallcovering & Upholstery Fabrics 18. Damask- (Webster) a reversible fabric woven with patterns, used esp. for table linens.15 - 18th century Damask Wallcovering 19. DAMASK stylized floralLight to Medium Weight Simple Weaves One of the oldest and most popular staple cloths a patterned fabric where the design is the reverse construction of the satin background always reversible origin: China via Damascus in Asia Minor. 20. Damask- Webster, a reversible fabric woven with patterns 1800 / 17th c. European and Early American Silk Damask Upholstery 21. 17th century / 1650s blue multicolor wool floral, shell and paisley embroidery 22. 1920s Paris Art Deco, Embroidered clothing & earth tone wool floral border, cut pile rug/ floor covering. 23. You can make an appt. to view the computer catalog in the Ratti Center at the MET when you visit NYC. Some of the textiles in the slide presentation were on view in the 2005 exhibitions others are details of department examples in storage that can be viewed from the computer database. 212-650-2310 24. Summary Slide Historic Textile Introduction to linen, silk & wool yarns, Brocade, Tapestry & Damask weave structures, with a mention of embroidery & cut pile by Prof. Hein with the Metropolitan exhibition textiles