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The Process
• Manufacturing Progression– Fiber to fabric – Fiber to yarn to fabric, carpeting, trimming
• Fiber, yarn construction, fabric construction all contribute to the appearance and performance of a textile.
FibersThe basic raw materials used in textile production are fibers,
either obtained from natural sources (e.g., wool) or produced from chemical substances (e.g., nylon and polyester).
How do you identify fiber or fabric content?
• Labels • Hand• Appearance• Burn test
Lotus Fiber
Spider silk
Spider Silk Fabric at the Museum of Natural History
Classification of Fibers
• Natural or manufactured
• General chemical type such as protein, etc
• Generic names, such as cotton, used on product labels
• Trade names, such as antron nylon, marketing purposes
Trade names
How we describe fibers
• Fiber length• Texture• Hand• Elasticity• Luster• Resiliency• Strength• Flammability• Resistance to sunlight
Natural Fibers
Protein• Silk• Wool• Mohair• Horsehair
MineralAsbestosGlass
Cellulosic• Cotton• Flax• Jute• Hemp• Bamboo• Sisal• Coir
Protein Fibers
• Silk• Wool• Mohair• Horsehair
Silk CharacteristicsSource• Obtained from cocoon of the silk wormAppearance• Translucent• Lustrous• Only natural filament fiberPhysical properties• Strong, has the tensile strength of steelYarn types• Tram, highest grade and most common. Filaments grouped and twist.• Dupioni, two cocoons become affixed• Raw, sericin not removed• Tussah, from wild uncultivated silk worm
• Tram• Noil• Dupioni
Silk con’tPro• LuxuriousCon• Rots when exposed to unfiltered sunlight• Moths eat• Flat fabrics that do not hide dirt
Silk Cocoons
Filament Fiber
Reeling
Silk Taffeta
Raw Silk
Tassel Fringe
Wool silk
Wool
Wool Characterics Source• Fleece of sheepAppearance• Crimp• Scales• Low light reflectionPhysical properties• Resiliency• Resistant to abrasion• Resistant to soiling• Inherently flame retardantYarn types• Woolen• Worsted
Con
Wool con’tPro• Inherently flame retardant• Resistant to wrinkling, abrasion and soilingCon• Moth eat• Rough hand• Lacks luster
Wool velvet
Wool rugs
Wool and the environment
• Maintain the animal to maintain the fiber but animal has other uses such as lanolin and food.
• Renewable resource. Can shear annually
Mohair
Mohair Characteristics
Source• Angora goatAppearance• Similar to wool but more lustrousPro• more luxurious than woolCon• More expensive than wool
Velvet
Horsehair
Horsehair characteristicsSource• Horses tailsAppearance• Individual hairs• White (can be dyed) or blackPhysical properties• Extremely strong and abrasion resistantYarn type• Individual hairs, cannot be spun into continuous yarnPro• Strong, abrasion resistant and can be washed with soap and waterCon • Narrow• Hard hand• Expensive and requires expert upholstering
Sources of Plant Fibers
Seed–cotton
Stem–Linen, ramie, jute, hemp
Leaf–Sisal, coir
Cotton CharacteristicsSource• Obtained from cotton bollAppearance• ½ to 2” longPhysical properties• Strong• Lacks resiliency• Cool hand• hydrophilicYarn types• Combed• Carded• Mercerized (finish)
Con
Cotton con’tPro• Plentiful, inexpensive and the most widely used fiber Con• Environmental impact through use of pesticides and water. GM crops
might benefit
Cotton
Bedding and table linens
Linen
Linen characteristicsSource• Obtained from the stem of the flax plantAppearance• Long• irregular• Looks like bamboo when viewed under a microscope• Lustrous when finished (calendared)Physical properties• Strong• Lacks resiliencyYarn types• none
Linen con’tPro• Crisp hand • Texture• No lintCon• Wrinkles• Breaks like a twig
Additional Plant FibersSisal and Jute
Green Plant FibersBamboo and Hemp
Plant fibers in wall coverings
Bast and Leaf Fibers and the environment
• More environmentally friendly than cotton– Little or no pesticides and less water– Bamboo, jute and fast growing and highly-
renewable
Manufactured FibersRayon and acetate • developed to replace parachute silk for WWI• Natural substance (cellulose) in a manufactured
process
SyntheticsPoly, nylon, acrylic, olefin • Not possible until scientist could look into a fiber
with a microscope to mimic the molecular structure. • Plastics invented from sludge, a byproduct of oil
refinery
Extruding manufactured yarn
Rayon yarn
Rayon or Viscose CharacteristicsSource• Chemically altered wood pulpAppearance• Translucent• Lustrous Physical properties• Strong• Lacks resiliencyYarn types• Filament • SpunPro• Flexible• Soft hand• LusterCon• Weaker when wet
Synthetics
ProsDurableResistant to moths Resistant to mildewHydrophobicFlexibilityLess expensive
ConsPlastic handStatic electricityPillingHydrophobic
Acrylic
Acrylic CharacteristicsSource• ChemicalAppearance• Soft• Light weight Physical properties• Not as strong as nylon or poly Yarn types • spunPro• Mimics spun natural fiber yarns• Outdoor fabrics, solution dyed acrylic (Sunbrella is trade name)Con• Plastic hand• Not as resistant to abrasion as polyester and nylon
Nylon CharacteristicsSource• ChemicalAppearance• flexible , engineered into different shapes and can be de-lusteredPhysical properties• Strong• Resistant to abrasion • Resilient Yarn types • Spun• FilamentPro• Resilience which makes it ideal for floor covering• Resists mildew and insects Con• Pills more than polyester• Static electricity
Olefin CharacteristicsSource• ChemicalAppearance• flexible , engineered into different shapes Physical properties• Strong• Resilient Yarn types • SpunPro• inexpensive • Bulky, light weightCon• Scratchy• Plastic hand• Not resistant to sunlight• Static electricity
Polyester
Polyester characteristicsSource• ChemicalAppearance• flexible , engineered into different shapes and can be de-lusteredPhysical properties• Strong• Resistant to abrasion • Resists pilling more than nylon• Highly resistant to sunlightYarn types • Spun• FilamentPro• Resists mildew and insects • Trevira, trade name for flame retardant polyCon• Hydrophobic so difficult to clean• Static electricity
• Most widely used manufactured fiber• Residential fabrics to save costs, commercial for performance• Non-yellowing window treatments such as sheers• Excellent resistance to sunlight• Green, Can be made from recycled plastic bottle
Polyester
Healthcare
Yarn
Yarn DefinedAny form of spun, twisted or extruded fibers, natural or manufactured, that can be used in weaving, knitting, or
knotting.
Two main types
spun filament
Hand spinning
Plied Yarn
Two color plied yarn
Characteristic of yarn
• Fineness of yarn numerical identification. Different systems for different fibers. Synthetics denier.
• Degree of twist per inch contributes to the strength and the hand.
• Texture• Different spinning systems such as
woolen/worsted, carded/combed
Novelty yarns
• Slub yarn• Boucle• Chenille• dupioni
Slub Yarn
Boucle
Boucle yarn in a fabric
Chenille yarn
Fabric with chenille
Metallic Yarn
Lycra/Stretch Fabric
Discuss
• Manufacturing progression• How can you identify fibers in a fabric?• How important is the “hand” of a textile product?
What effects the hand?• What do cotton and rayon have in common and how
do they differ?• What qualities do all synthetic fibers have in
common?
Discuss
• What are the challenges faced by the design profession in selecting and specifying interior textile products?
• What are some of the fabric performance predictors that we have learned so far?
Review General Textiles
• Definition textiles, they are made from fibers that
are processed into yarn, then woven, knit, or nonwoven fabrics.
• Three aspects that contribute to a textiles appearance and performance are fiber, yarn construction, fabric construction
Review Fiber• The basic raw materials used in textile production are fibers, either
obtained from natural sources (e.g., wool) or produced from chemical substances (e.g., nylon and polyester).
• Two main categories of fibers, natural and manufactured.• How can you identify fibers in a fabric?• Four classifications of fiber
– Natural and manufactured– Chemical name– Generic name– Trade name
• Characteristics of all of the fibers in the power point.
Review yarn• Yarn
Any form of spun, twisted or extruded fibers, natural or manufactured, that can be used in weaving, knitting, or knotting.
• The difference in spun and filament yarns. Spun yarns have short fibers that have been twisted together into one continuous strand. Filament is extruded into one continuous strand.
• A plied yarns are yarns made from twisting together two or more singles yarns. This is done to make a stronger more uniformed yarn.
• The higher the twists per inch the stronger the yarn and the harder the hand.