FASHION DESIGNERS

FROM THEIR CAPITAL AND

THEIR COLLECTIONS

• JOHN GALLIANO - LONDON

• ISABEL MARENT - PARIS

• MIUCCIA PRADA - MILAN

• DONNA KARAN - NEW YORK

• YOHJI YAMAMOTO - TOKYO

DESIGNERS

• Is a British fashion designer born in

Gibraltar and grew up in London.

• He graduated from central saint martins

college of art and design.

• He launched his own label before he

became the head designer of the French

haute couture houses in 1995-1996 and

Christian Dior from 1996-2011 in Paris.

JOHN GALLIANO(1960-)

LONDON

Galliano is known for his ready to

wear and Haute-Couture

collections for the fashion houses.

His first collection: 1984 Degree

collection, Les’ Incroyables. A

French revolutionary street scene.

JOHN GALLIANO’S EARLY

CAREER

In 1985 He starts making clothes and

presents his first collection, The ludic

game, at London Fashion Week. That

autumn he shows the fallen angels line.

• In 1986 Peder Bertelsen, a businessman

invests in Galliano’s Label.

• In 1988, he won Designer of the year for

his Blanche Dubois collection.

• In 1989 Peder Bertelsen withdraws his

financial support.

• Drained by the difficulty of funding,

Galliano moves to Paris.

• In 1993 Anna Wintour, editor

of American vogue persuades

a Portuguese socialite to lend

her mansion for Galliano's

fashion show.

• Galliano unveils the Princess

Lucretius collection.

• In 1995 John Galliano was

appointed chief designer of

Givenchy, Fashion houses controlled

by the LVMH luxury goods group.

• In 1996 unveils his first Givenchy

couture collection.

• He is then named as chief women’s

wear designer of Christian Dior.

In 1997 presents first haute

couture collection for Dior.

In 1999 Co ordinates Dior’s ready

to wear .

In, 2001 Awarded a CBE in

Queens Birthday Honours list.

• On February 2011, Dior announced they had suspended Galliano

following his arrest over an alleged anti Jewish tirade in a Paris bar.

• Galliano denied his allegations. Dior announced that it will continue to

support the Galliano brand financially due to license despite the scandal.

• On 8 September 2011, Galliano was found guilty of making anti Semitic

remarks.

CONTROVERSY

• In early 2013, Galliano accepted an invitation from Oscar de la

Renta to help prepare for a Fall 2013 ready to wear collection at

New York Fashion week.

• On October 6, 2014, the OTB Group announced that John

Galliano joined Maison Martin Margiela as a creative director..

• Galliano exhibited his first couture collection for Margiela during

London Collections on January 2015

COMEBACK

• Is a French Fashion designer born in Paris is

known for her tomboyish Bohemian aesthetic

creations.

• In 1982, tired of not being able to find

clothes she liked in store, Marant bought a

sewing machine and began making pieces out

of discarded clothes and fabric.

• In 1985 she took up design at the prestigious

Studio Bercot Fashion School in Paris.

ISABEL MARANT(1967-)

PARIS

• Marant interned with Persian designer Michel Klein in 1987 and

also worked with Bridget Yorke on two collections

• In 1989 , she began launching her own collections.

• In 1989 she also launched her own jewellery label followed by a

knitwear label known as Twen.

• In 1994 she set up her own label with a studio in Paris . She basis

her creations on her own style and taste.

EARLY CAREER

• Her first show for the spring summer

1995 season, was held in the courtyard

of a squat with her friends modelling.

• In 1997 Marant won the Award de la

Mode and the Whirlpool Award for the

best female designer in 1998.

• In 1998 she began guest designing

collections for the popular French mail

catalogue and also launched a new line

called I*M in Japan.

• In 2000 Marant expanded her brand by

adding Etoile, which is designed to be

more affordable and casual having 10

shops worldwide including :

Paris, New York, Tokyo, Honk Kong ,Los

Angeles, London, Seoul, Madrid, Beirut,

Beijing and has retailers in more than 35

countries.

• In 2004, she launched a children's wear line and also launched a

pop up boutique in Paris.

• In 2012, Marant was awarded Fashion Designer of the Year at

British glamour’s Women of the Year awards.

• The heart of Isabel Marant, is the brand’s ready to wear collection, which

is presented at Paris fashion week each season each season.

• Isabel Marant’s 2011 fall/winter collection, touches on a cowboys and

Indian theme.

• By mixing ethno printed minis with oversized knitwear and fringe boots

COLLECTIONS

The 2012 spring/summer designs, are refreshing. The energetic colors and

tie die patterns radically contrast the earlier pieces, This collection contains

a lot of loose jersey, paired with statement denim. Oversized jackets and

sleek nude sandals.

The fall winter show of 2012 was based on cowgirl look, the collection contained

a lot of easy to wear statement pieces such as leather pants, silk button down

shirts, quilted jean jackets, all of which was stylishly embroidered.

The 2013 collection was inspired by Vintage America. Having heavy

emphasis on black, white and bold red, making the outfit an eye catcher.

The 2014 winter/autumn collection was mostly concentrated on super strong

shoulders an introduced loony shoe.

One of the most influential fashion designers in the world, Donna

Karan has left a lasting impact on the world of clothing, bringing

uptown New York chic into the mainstream.

DONNA KARAN

•Donna Ivy Faske was born on October 2, 1948, in Forest Hills, New York.

•From an early age Donna, who grew up in Hewlett, Long Island, was immersed in the world of fashion.

•Her mother worked as a model while her stepfather made a living as a suit designer.

•Karan's family's influence was apparent in her early life. By the age of 14 she had dropped out of school and begun selling clothing at a local boutique.

•In 1968 Karan was accepted into the highly respected Parsons School of Design in New York City.

•While in school, she landed an prestigious summer job working for designer Anne Klein. Her work there proved so impressive that within two years she was named associate designer

EARLY LIFE

•Karan's ascendency to the top of Anne Klein happened not long after the founding designer's death. Under Karan's direction, and with the help of fellow designer and Parsons friend Louis Dell 'Olio, the Ann Klein brand blossomed.

•In 1984, Karan, who by then divorced her first husband, Mark, decided to strike out on her own. At her side was Stephen Weiss, her second husband, a painter and sculptor whose calm demeanor helped offset his wife's sometimes intense personality. With Weiss at her side, Karan left Anne Klein and debuted her first women's collection in 1985.

•From the start Karan made it her mission to "design modern clothes for modern people." With an increase of women entering the professional workforce, Karan's timing proved to be impeccable.

•In 1988, Karan, recognizing the need for a more affordable fashion line, launched Donna Karan New York (DKNY), a women's line that was influenced by her original Signature collection. In 1990 she developed DKNY Jeans and then, two years later, debuted DKNY for men.

CREATING HER OWN BRAND

•Below are some statements given by donna karan herself and these are the words she

follows by heart.

“Everything I do is a matter of heart, body and soul”.

“For me, designing is an expression of who I am as a woman, with all the

complications, feelings and emotions.”

“I’m a woman makes me want to nurture others, fulfill needs and solve problems. At

the same time, the artist within me strives for beauty, both sensually and visually. So

design is a constant challenge to balance comfort with luxe, the practical with the

desirable.”

• Whatever form the design takes, Karan will tell you it begins and ends with the body – its

sensual expression, sense of security, and freedom of movement.

•Karan is inspired by the life and innate style of the artist. Quintessential hallmarks include

black cashmere, leather, stretch and molded fabrics, often exclusively developed by

Karan, as well as silhouettes that wrap and sculpt the body.

•For Karan, it’s never been just about clothes; it’s about lifestyles. She sees the entire

picture from head-to-toe, from function to aesthetic. Handbags and shoes are designed

right alongside the clothes.

HER UNIQUENESS AND

INSPIRATIONS

•1989 saw the birth of DKNY- DKNY Jeans, DKNY Active, DKNY Underwear, DKNY Jeans Juniors, and DKNY Kids.

•In 1988, Karan, recognizing the need for a more affordable fashion line, launched Donna Karan New York (DKNY), a women's line that was influenced by her original Signature collection. In 1990 she developed DKNY Jeans and then, two years later, debuted DKNY for men.

•Karan’s quest for the perfect jeans, as well as her desire to dress her daughter Gabby, resulted in DKNY Jeans Juniors, and DKNY Kids.

•Karan saw the many men in her life, starting with her husband, also needed a sophisticated system of dressing. Considering that Karan’s father was a custom tailor, DKNY Men emerged a year later in answer to his casual, sport side, which went on to launch its own dress shirt and tailored clothing collections.

•Determined to seduce all the senses, Karan took on the world of beauty in 1992 and The beauty division went on to introduce best-selling fragrances.

• Completing the lifestyle approach to design, in 2001 Karan introduced a Donna Karan Home Collection “all about touch and feel,” which includes everything from luxe bedding and candles to cashmere throws, and DKNY Home, which accents interiors with fashion-forward bedding and accessories.

• There are also Donna Karan and DKNY Lenox Table and Giftware collections as well.

DONNA KARAN NEW YORK

DKNY MEN, KIDS, WOMEN

DKNY PRODUCTS

•A modern system of dressing, Karan’s concept is based on

Seven Easy Pieces, where a handful of interchangeable

items work together to create an entire wardrobe that goes

from day to evening, weekday to weekend, season to

season. “I’m designing for an international man and woman.

A creative person who never knows where a day is going to

take them,” says Karan. “That’s why New York is on the

label. It sets the pace, the attitude.”

•Many trends come and go with the ever-changing zeitgeist,

and few are the movements that have had as lasting an

impact on the way women dress as Donna Karan’s 7 Easy

Pieces, a concept first debuted in 1985 that continues to

shape the sartorial landscape of today.

•In its first incarnation, the idea centered around the

bodysuit ~ a garment whose cultural relevance is quickly

trickling back to fashion’s forefront. That seminal show

opened with eight models dressed only in black bodysuits

and tights; they next began slowly adding wrap skirts, pull-

on knit pants, tailored jackets and all sorts of cashmere

layers. A revolution had begun.

SEVEN EASY PIECES

•Born Maria Prada in Milan in 1949, Miuccia

Prada is an Italian designer, best known for

her eponymous label Prada and its secondary

line Miu Miu.

•Once a member of the Italian Communist

Party and a mime student, Prada was an

unlikely entrepreneur when she took over her

family's luggage business in 1978. She first

dazzled the fashion world in 1985 with a

series of black nylon handbags and

backpacks. Prada is now a billion-dollar

company.

MIUCCIA PRADA

•Famed fashion designer Miuccia Prada was born Maria Bianchi

Prada on May 10, 1949, in Milan, Italy.

•She was the youngest granddaughter of Mario Prada, who started

the Prada fashion line in 1913 by manufacturing well-crafted, high-

end suitcases, handbags and steamer trunks for the Milanese elite.

•Prada was an unlikely inheritor of her family's business. A former

member of the Italian Communist Party, Prada attended the

University of Milan, where she made a name for herself as an ardent

feminist and earned a Ph.D. in political science.

•Following her academic work, Prada planted herself at Milan's

Piccolo Teatro, where she trained as a mime for five years.

YOUNGER LIFE

•In 1978, Prada entered her family's business and soon set to work on reimagining a company that had grown sleepy and stagnant. With the help of her future husband, Patrizio Bertelli, Prada began updating the company's merchandise with designs she'd developed herself.

•Prada began gaining popularity in 1985, when she unveiled a series of black nylon handbags and backpacks with understated labeling—a stark contrast to the logo heavy clothes that dominated the fashion world at the time. Four years later, Prada, who has no formal fashion training, introduced a line of ready-to-wear women's clothes that she called "uniforms for the slightly disenfranchised." Critics and consumers ate it up.

•Working closely with her Bertelli, who'd by now become her husband, Prada quickly grew the business into a powerhouse. In 1992, she introduced a new, more affordable label called Miu Miu. Three years later, the company unveiled a line of men's clothing.

•In the years since, Prada has continued its upward trajectory, introducing other new lines, and buying stake in or just buying up competitors, including Fendi, Helmut Lang, Jil Sander, and Church & Company, among others. In 2002, it was reported that Prada had annual revenues of more than $1.9 billion.

EARLY FASHION CAREER

•Much of what set Prada apart from the rest of the fashion world is her seeming disregard for the fashion industry. Prada has always blazed her own trail and demonstrated a fearlessness in trying new styles. Her experimentation once included a raincoat that was transparent until it became wet, at which point it turned opaque. In 2004, she dazzled a front row of critics at a show with a collection of souvenir clothes that included straw hats and embroidered moccasins. In another designer's hands they might have been seen as garish; in Prada's, the items packed chic appeal.

•"If you want to know what a season is about, you don't miss the Prada show," one fashion director told TIME magazine in 2004. "She never follows anyone else's lead, just her own original energy. Her collections are completely an expression of herself."

•In 2010, Prada was named the McKim Medal Laureate (for achievements in fashion and business) at the Villa Aurelia of the American Academy in Rome. In 2012, an exhibition of Prada's work was showcased, at New York's Metropolitan Museum of Art.

PRADA’S IMPACT

•Miuccia Prada, 63, is just like her collections: discreet, unpredictable and

nonconformist. A brown turban holds back her fair hair. She wears old-fashioned

earrings, a green crew-neck jumper, a brown, knee-length skirt, flat-heeled sandals

and a brown leather bag. She is not beautiful but has a powerful presence. A remote

woman and a fashion intellectual.

•In the 1960s she was the first person at her secondary school to adopt a hippy style.

"I was conservative because of my parents, but when I was 14 I wanted to be

different," she explains. "I had to be the first one to have an idea. The same

obsession still drives me in my work, never doing things like the others. It's been a

constant strand in my life.“

•She loved politics and being involved in social issues, but retained her interest in

appearances. "To want to be a fashion designer was really the worst thing that could

happen to me. I thought it was dumb and conservative [...] But my education at home

pulled the other way, giving me a taste for beautiful things, an instinct for fashion. I

adored that."

WHAT MADE PRADA DIFFERENT?

•Miuccia began by updating the old-fashioned merchandise with her own designs - producing a popular line of black, lightweight backpacks in 1985 - before moving into womenswear and showing her debut collection in 1988 to critical acclaim.

•A year later she was awarded the Council of Fashion Designers of America International Award.

•In April 2005, Miuccia Prada made it on to Time magazine's list of the 100 Most Influential People of the 20th Century, along with the likes of Bill Clinton, George Bush, Cardinal Joseph Rat zinger and writer Dan Brown. She was described as "having provoked and influenced colleagues for years with her eccentric and highly personal sensibility".

•She never liked the idea of a bad copy of what one does for the main brand. If she had an ingenious idea to do fashion that costs less but that wasn't a bad copy of something else, with completely different criteria and ways of doing things, she would do it.

PRADA: AN INTELLECTUAL WITH

DRESS SENSE

PRADA – DESIGNER’S BIOGRAPHY -

MIUCCIA PRADA – VIDEO

• Is a Japanese fashion designer

based in Tokyo and Paris.

• Yamamoto graduated from

Keio University with a degree

in law in 1966 and further

studies in Fashion design at

Bunka Fashion College.

• He is considered as a master

tailor.

YOHJI FEU(1943-)

TOKYO

• In 1972 Y’s joint stock corporation

founded. His commercially main line,

Yohji Yamamoto(women/men) and Y’s,

are especially popular in Tokyo.

• Yamamoto is known for frequently

creating designs far removed from

current trends. His signature oversized

silhouettes in black often feature

drapery in varying textures.

Silhouette: Wrapped, Clingy, Drapes

Colour: Black, White, Navy, Red, Khaki.

Key Items: Draped jersey dress, Sweater

poncho, Slouchy cropped pants, Wool Cape.

Materials: Jersey, Satin, Velvet, Chunky

cable Knits, Felted wool, Fur.

Details+ Trim: Hoods, Hi low hems, Wrapping, Slits, Colour blocking, Blanket

stitch, Corset like lacing, Tassels.

Accessories +Footwear: Knit gloves, Leather jazz shoes, slip ons, combat

boots, Large shawls.

• In 1981, Yohji Yamamoto debuted in Paris. In 1995 He designed

costumes for the Heiner Muller .

• In 2002 Haute couture collection presented in Paris. Formed

relationships with Persian boutiques.

• In 2003 Opening of the Y’s line flagship store in Ropping hills.

Yamamoto’s work has also become familiar to consumers through his

collaborations with other fashion brands:

Adidas(Y-3), Hermes, Mikimoto and Mandarina Duck.

In 2014 Designs third kits for the football club Real Madrid

New Adidas Y-3 Black Retro Boost New Y-3 Hayworth Guard

Knit Sneakers

• In Paris Fashion week 2012, the Sculptural, theatrical hats conjured

images of both post modern architecture and lavish

• Italian wedding fayre.

• Loose wide legged linens were given drawstring bands, black maxi skirts

and shirting and a modest pleated Amish skirt.

In 2013 , spring ready to wear collection had trousers with a shirred, multi

tied waist, or a white biker jacket with elegant tails

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