YARN

DEFINITION:

The word yarn or thread is used in common parlance to cover all the linear textile structures. Yarns can be either “single” or “folded”.

“A yarn is an assemblage of fibres or filaments having a substantial length and relatively small cross section, with or without twist, being the end product of a spinning and winding process”

YARNS

SINGLE YARNS ASSEMBLED YARNS FOLDED YARNS

SPUN YARNS FILAMENT YARNS

FANCY YARNSFANCY YARNS

ROTOR YARNS

RING YARNS

WORSTED YARNS

SEMI-WORSTED YARNS

WOOLLEN YARNS

FLAT FILAMENT YARNS

TEXTURED FILAMENT YARNS

BICOMPONENT TAPE OR SPLIT FILM YARNS

CLASSIFICATION OF YARNS

Yarn may be any of the following

Number of fibers twisted together

Number of filaments without twist

Number of filaments twisted with more/less twist

Single filament

One or more strips cut by length of a sheet of material of natural/ synthetic or any polymer

TERMS

SPUN YARNS are made by mechanical assembly and twisting together (spinning) of Staple fibres such as cotton, flax,

wool, broken or cut man-made fibres.

FILAMENT YARNS are made by the assembly of continuous filaments, made from silk or man-made fibres

A MULTI FILAMENT YARN is a filament yarn made from multiple filaments, assembled with or without twist.

A MONO FILAMENT YARN consists of only a single continuous filament from man-made source.

Two or more yarns which are wound side by side on to same package,

but without twisting around each other, are called ASSEMBLED

YARNS.

FOLDED OR PLIED YARNS are yarns made by twisting togetherTwo or more single (and/or folded) yarns of the same or different types.Ex: 2 Ply (two singles)

CORDS OR CABLED YARNS are yarns made by twisting togetherTwo or more ply or folded yarns of the same or different types.Ex: 2,3 Ply Cord

Twist DirectionTwists or turns per inchTwist Factor (K)

Properties of Spun, Filament and Combination Yarns:

100%Spun Yarns: Warmth, Softness, Light Weight Ideal for T-Shirts, Sweaters and Blankets

100%Filament Yarns: Smoother, Finer and Lustrous Ideal for linings

Combination of spun and filament Yarns: Durable, Easy care, Comfortable Suitable for more applications

Twist The purpose of twist is to hold the staple

fibers together The twist could be used in different ways to

embed different qualities to the yarn A yarn that is twist balanced will not tend to

curl The direction of twist is also important for

further designing as this can be used well by designers

Yarn twist parameters:

Amount of twist is designated as TPI –turns per inch, whichAffects appearance and durability of the yarns.

Spun yarn: Low twist Soft twist yarns flexible(2 to 12 tpi) ex: Knitting fluffier

soft

High Twist Hard twist yarns smooth(20 to 30 tpi) ex: weaving firm

stronger

Filament yarns: Usually low twist Pebbly and harsh surface (1/2 to 1 tpi) Crepe fil. with crepe twist

Twist and Bulkiness

The bulkier the yarn, lesser the twist. Finer the yarn higher the twist. Bulkier yarn needs lesser twist and so it has

lesser strength. Finer yarn has more twists and strong. But when the twist is increased after particular

point the strength is reduced due to the breakage of the fibers.

Blends / Mixtures

A blend is a combination of two materials at fiber stage.

A mix is two materials put together at a later stage as strands.

The texture we get is different from each of them.

The design value of these are high.

PolyesterCotton

Polyester Cotton

67%33%

Material-BlendingMaterial-Blending

Chief Value Cotton (CVC) /Cotton RichChief Value Cotton (CVC) /Cotton Rich

Polyester (40%)+Cotton(60%) Cotton

•Comfort, Soft handle Polyester

• Crease resistance, Easy care

Polyester Cotton (PC)Polyester Cotton (PC)

Polyester (67%) and Cotton (33%) Cotton

•comfortable to wear •greater strength

Polyester

•Resistance from creases, Quick dry

Need The need for blends or mixes are.

Cost. Different quality that each fiber offers. More effective usage of the materials. The necessity of different and in between qualities

and both the qualities.

Design Values The design values of such blended and mixed

yarn can be explored to give an innovative look to the textile

More innovative processes can be explored The design can happen from yarn stage.

Fancy yarns are explorations of the prior said attributes such as

Twist Bulkiness Color Material

Blends and Mixes Material(conventional/non-conventional)

Fancy Yarns

Physical properties and performance characteristicsof different yarn types:

Yarn type General yarn properties

Staple yarns Excellent Handle Good covering power

• Carded cotton Good comfort rating• Combed cotton Reasonable strength• Woollen Reasonable uniformity• Worsted• Linen

Yarn type General yarn properties

Continuous filament yarns Excellent uniformity Excellent strength

•Natural Can be very fine•Non-synthetic Fair handle•Synthetic Poor covering power

High bulk yarns Light weight

• Staple Good covering power• Continulous filament Good loftiness and fullness

Stretch yarns High stetchability

Continuous filament Good handle Covering power

Special end use:

•Tyre cord Purely functional•Rubber Designed to satisfy a specific-•Core yarn set of conditions•Cabled•Split film yarn

Novelty yarns: Excellent decorative features

•Fancy yarns•Metallic

Variables in yarn production

Type of fibre or filamentDimensional and physical characteristics of the fibre/filamentMechanical properties of the fibre / filamentGeneral properties Yarn production systemsComponents of the yarn and percentagesLinear density and level of twistYarn constructionTexturisation and method of texturisation

Yarn types & Characteristics Spun - carded, combed Long staple spng - Worsted, Spun Silk Filament - Mono & Multifilament Doubled yarn - single & 2-ply

Stronger, Uniform, blending

Yarn twist - S & Z, TPI, High Twist, Knit yarns.

Stretch yarns - Lycra, Mechanical Slub Yarns, Lurex

Spinning

Plucking & Cleaning Blow room Carding Combing Draw frame Simplex Ring frame Yarn

SPUN YARN MANUFACTURINGSPUN YARN MANUFACTURING

Ring spinning: Ring spinning: Blow room process: Blow room process: sorting, opening, separating, sorting, opening, separating, cleaning, and blending of fibres cleaning, and blending of fibres   

CardingCarding: : intensive cleaning through individualization of intensive cleaning through individualization of fibresfibres  

DrawingDrawing: : alignment of fibres through doubling and drafting alignment of fibres through doubling and drafting of fibresof fibres  

CombingCombing: : micro cleaning and alignment of fibres through micro cleaning and alignment of fibres through parallelizationparallelization  

RovingRoving: : attenuating drawn sliversattenuating drawn slivers  Spinning: Spinning: twisting drafted roving in to yarntwisting drafted roving in to yarn

Plucking.Plucking.

At this stage cotton bales are

manually opened and are put in Pluckers are machines which mix the

cotton and separate the

bales into smaller

denominations. The separated cotton is then

transferred into the Blow Room.

Blow RoomBlow Room

The Blow Room is a facility, which is

primarily used for the Cleaning, Mixing and Opening of cotton for

yarn production. Cotton is processed

through various stages in this area through

different machines and the main objective is to refine the cotton being

used in yarn production.

Carding Department Carding Department

Carding Department Carding Department

The main function of this

department is to transform the

cotton into Sliver. The main

objective here is to maintain the

uniformity, alignment and

stretch ability of the fiber as per

the desired standards

Combing

Combing

The main function of this department is to transform the cotton Sliver in to more fine and inject the raw material and also putting short fiber to get more longer fiber for durability.

Draw Frame

The function of the Draw Frame is to create a roving consistent in size over its entire length. The draw frame blends multiple roving into one fiber.

The draw frame results in strong, uniform roving of a size that can be easily managed at the spinner

SimplexSimplex

Simplex is the process of

shaping the Sliver into

Roving. The main processes

involved are Grafting, Twisting

and Winding the sliver and

shaping it like a thin rope.

Ring frameRing frame

This is function where the yarn is finally

produced. The Roving are put on the

machines used here and passing the roving

through the machine produces yarns. The main objective of the

machines here is again Grafting, Twisting and

Winding. Once the cotton thread is

produced it is collected in the form of Bobbin.