The first successful ascent of Everest 60 years ago

In 1951, after three decades of failed attempts to conquer Everest, an expedition led by Eric Shipton was sent to the region to seek a potential route to the summit. Among its members was an experienced climber from New Zealand called Edmund Hillary. This was followed by a training expedition to the area, while awaiting the outcome of two Swiss attempts to reach the summit in 1952, both of which failed. Accompanying the Swiss climbers was a Sherpa by the name of Tenzing Norgay.

Thus, in 1953, the way was clear for the British to have another crack at Everest. A team was assembled under the leadership of John Hunt. Hillary was among the climbing party, as was Tenzing Norgay. Prior to making their assault, the expedition scaled a number of mountains in the area. Chukhung peak was one of them, and Norgay is seen standing on the summit at 5,913m.

Profiting from the Swiss experience the previous year, Hunt’s men worked their way up the Khumbu glacier, through its fearsome icefall and across the western Cwm to the foot of the Lhotse face. They scaled the face, traversed the steep ice slope above and finally reached the wind-blasted South Col. From a camp here, two attempts were made on the summit. The second, by Hillary and Tenzing, put them on top of the world at 11.30am on 29 May, 1953. Mighty Everest had been tamed at last.

This Indian air force photograph of the south-west face of Everest shows the route of the successful ascent with the Khumbu

glacier in the foreground.

Before setting out on the expedition Tenzing Norgay sought the blessing of his mother, Kinzom, at Thyangboche monastery. She wanted to be sure he was fit and well enough to go; having satisfied herself, she returned to her home.

Members of the expedition check and sort through their stores and equipment at the town of Bhadgaon. Around 13 tons of baggage accompanied the expedition. Hundreds of porters were needed to transport it all to base camp.

Climbing Everest. Image from the collection of mountaineer and photographer, Alfred Gregory, showing the successful assault on Mt Everest by Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay in 1953.

Any water that wasn't frozen was warm enough to bathe in. At least, that seems to have been the view of Edmund Hillary, seen here enjoying a bracing dip in a mountain stream.

Sherpas strap on their boots. Image from the collection of mountaineer and photographer Alfred Gregory showing the successful assault on Mt Everest by Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay in 1953.

Clouds rush over a peak in the Himalayas. Image from the collection of mountaineer and photographer Alfred Gregory showing the successful assault on Mt Everest by Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay in 1953.

New Zealander George Lowe watches Tenzing Norgay test-fit crampons to his new climbing boots at the expedition's camp alongside the monastery at Thyangboche, where they stayed for three weeks to acclimatise.

Sir Edmund Hillary sits at base camp, preparing for his successful attempt to be the first to reach the summit of Mount Everest, Nepal, May 1953.

The expedition's base camp on the Khumbu glacier, with the peak of Lingtren rearing up behind. Snowfall covered everything in a white mantle.

A climbers' camp on Mt Everest. Image from the collection of mountaineer and photographer Alfred Gregory showing the successful assault on Mt Everest by Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay in 1953. 

A camp in the Himalayas. A camp on Mt Everest. Image from the collection of mountaineer and photographer Alfred Gregory showing the successful assault on Mt Everest by Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay in 1953.

Taking a break in the Himalayas

Sherpas, dwarfed by the landscape of broken ice and snow, carry heavy loads along a tortuous route through the Khumbu icefall on their way to camp II.

Sherpas are led across the western Cwm, which was riven with deep crevasses. They appear to be on firm snow but the problem with the terrain was always that appearances could be deceptive.

Sherpas ferrying supplies across a log bridge over a crevasse in the western Cwm. The crampons on their boots make the procedure doubly hazardous. The expedition had only two aluminium ladders and a few tree trunks to bridge crevasses.

Advance base, camp IV, at the foot of the Lhotse face at 6,500m. From here, loads had to be carried up the steep and hazardous face, and then across it to reach the windswept South Col of Everest.

A sherpa climbs a ladder. Image from the collection of mountaineer and photographer Alfred Gregory showing the successful assault on Mt Everest by Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay in 1953.

Crossing a Himilayan crevasse. Climbers cross a crevasse in the Himalayas. Image from the collection of mountaineer and photographer Alfred Gregory showing the successful assault on Mt Everest by Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay in 1953.

Dwarfed by ice. Climbers are dwarfed by ice on Mt Everest.

Walking in a straight line. Climbers walk beside a crevasse on Mt Everest.

Sherpas enjoying a well-earned break at camp IV. Snow goggles were essential to combat the glare from the surrounding landscape.

Climbers head up Mt Everest. Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay during their ascent of Mt Everest.

Hillary and Tenzing during ascent. Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay on the ascent of Mt Everest.

Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay approach laden with extra equipment to establish their final camp, at almost 8,534m. The photograph was taken by Alf Gregory, a member of their support team. From this point on they would be on their own.

Hillary's view to the west from the summit, with Pumori in the foreground. Cho Oyu (centre) and the West Rongbuk glacier (bottom right) can also be seen.

Expedition members on their way back to camp IV after the triumph of 29 May, 1953. Left to right, Charles Evans, Edmund Hillary, Tenzing Norgay, Tom Bourdillon and George Band.

Members of the successful expedition. John Hunt can be seen in the front standing row (third left). To his left is Tenzing Norgay and immediately behind him Edmund Hillary.

Sir Edmund Hillary (R) and Sherpa Tenzing Norgay smile after their legendary ascent of Mount Everest (summit to the right of Hillary’s head) at camp in Thyangboche, Nepal during the first interview with both men after their quest with Reuters special correspondent Peter Jackson in this file photo taken June 6, 1953.

Everest today

Traffic Jam in the Death Zone

“Today, Everest is too much of a business and there are too many heroes.” Simone Moro

Climbers and adventurers around the world are drawn to Mt. Everest, the world's highest peak. But many of them don't have the experience necessary to be there -- and the increased volume of climbers result in traffic jams high up on its slopes.

With no roads leading to Everest it takes days for porters to ferry goods to expeditions at base camp.

Every climbing season, trains of gear and supplies are carried to Everest. In 2012, climbing expeditions brought $11.6m in revenue for Nepal.

Everest’s base camp is today a sprawling “nylon city”. Set up on top of a glacier, it has grown immensely in size to accommodate an increasing numbers of climbers.

A string of climbers leading from the South Summit up the Hillary Step and on to the summit. Often, climbers have to wait for up to two hours at the base of the Hillary Step (the steep rocky part in the picture) for climbers above to move out of the way.

Traffic jams have become a common problem on Everest. Causing hours of delays, they are blamed for the deaths of many climbers

end

cast The first successful ascent of Everest 60 years ago

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